Ford Ranger 3.0L Oil Pump and Rear Main Seal Repair on RWD
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- In this video, I repair the oil pump and rear main seal on my 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0L RWD. This was a very long project, but I saved over 2K doing it myself. These instructions apply to trucks with 2WD/RWD only. Instructions would be different with 4WD truck.
If you are going to go to the trouble of pulling the transmission it would be smart to go ahead and replace the rear main seal, put in a new clutch and pressure plate and a new throw out bearing. If you don't and they fail as they inevitably will, you will hate yourself later. If you have a manual transmission that is.
@markashby3264 I have an automatic. And yes I'm changing rear main seal. Thanks for information 👍
Just followed this to replace my 2003 ranger's rear main and oil pan gasket. Perfect video and visuals to figure out pretty much every step. So far so good. I only have 1 extra bolt I couldn't remember where it went, and only cried 3 times during the 4-day job. Every bolt a struggle....
Usually the extra bolt, is the bolt connecting the cooler lines to the engine block or exhaust.
Thank you. I definitely will be referencing this when I fix the rear main seal on her new used ranger. Very upset I didn't notice this before she bought it
I had the problem of buying an oil pressure switch with the light when i needed a guage. It would read 0 until i put a gauge one in. Works fine now.
If you learned something, might be worth sharing. Low oil pressure issues on 3.0 Rangers is something experience by a large group of owners.
I'm doing my 2003 ford ranger xlt 3.0 RWD right now. I'm putting in a oil pump as well and rear main seal. You are right it's a freaking nightmare. I'm looking for a video that shows how to lift the engine so i can take off oil pan. I have an engine hoist with two chains, one is hooked to the alternator bracket and one to the air conditioner bracket. Then i have one chain hooked to each side of the exhaust manifold studs with the nuts on . I'm hoping and praying that works for lifting engine. I'm lifting radiator with the engine at the same time.
I lifted the engine up from the oil pan and just wedged two pieces of wood between engine mounts and frame. Best of luck.
Working on an older Ranger is some muscle killing sht - I know.
@fredwatson441 muscle killing alright i hurt everywhere 😫
I'm going to be doing this job soon when I replace the clutch in my daughter's 2000 3.0 ranger. I appreciate you filming this to give us regular dudes an idea of what's in store.
Also I laughed at the tools all over the place. I swear Ford likes to use different sized nuts and bolts for absolutely everything. You end up using every tool in the damned garage to get them apart. I think I could have disassembled my old 92 S-10 with 4 wrenches a couple screwdrivers and some needle nose pliers.
All I have ever worked on is Ford's and it is amazing all the different tools you need. Especially when you have old vehicles that uses SAE.
Por eso no compro for
Thanks, convinced me to shop it out and just work the OT at work to pay for it.
Plus you need a lot of tools and equipment.
Much easier job with 2 people just an FYI for anyone attempting this. Me and my brother did it recently, it's not too bad if you can get the exhaust off easily the rest went pretty smooth.
A buddy always makes things go a lot quicker. I work on some many cars, I have used up my friend help, lol.
The pan looked relatively clean. The pump didn't appear worn. That rear seal may have lost your pressure. Ìf the head gasket isn't leaking somewhere, it might be worth checking oil ports before putting it all together. Of course, it will be a little more work on an old engine, but you said it sat for awhile. Might be some gunk in the top of the motor.
When the oil pump on any motor is loosing pressure while hot is because of the oil pressure relief spring in the pump is totally weak and releases to much oil pressure. And that will make the low oil pressure while the engine is hot. You can rebuild the oil pump with a kit. And a new spring comes in the kit . But the kit is almost as much as a new oil pump. I would rather just put a new oil pump.
Agreed, not worth the risk and time on a rebuild kit.
Awesome video, thank you. Need some advice, just changed my seal. Putting everything back together, but when I line up the transmission with the block and bolt it together, I’m no longer able to turn the crank by hand. I’ve taken it apart many, many time to see what’s binding but can’t seem to find anything. Hope you see this, any advice. Thanks
Ok, so the engine zpins until you mate the transmission? Is it automatic or manual?
@@chasingmustangs Its automatic, best I can figure is the torque converter sit isn’t seated, but I pulled and checked it three time. If I tighten the transmission bolts, I can’t spin the crank to install the converter nuts. If I leave the trans a bit loose, I can do the converter nuts, but when I tighten the trans bolts it’s seems to be binding up again. And if I put it all back together, I know the starters not going to be able to turn it.
I have never seen this. But it does sound like the converter is not 100% locked into place. Your rotated it and heard it engage three times.
@@chasingmustangs That’s gotta be my problem, I “think” it’s seated. I just need to be more thorough with it. Thanks for the help and your time.
I’m no expert but I would check the following. See if your converter is sitting inside of the trans case. (Take a straight edge and check it on the front of the bell housing). Also measure the torque converter surface, (where the studs are) to the edge of the bell housing as well. The middle of the converter should be inside the the bellhousing and the flat surface where the studs are located should be nearly 2” from the edge. If that’s your issue, (which I think it is). Your input shaft is not seated all the way. Pull the bell housing and get the shaft seated all the way back. Best of luck.
The oil pressure relief valve is the biggest problem with the Ford ranger oil pump. The relief valve spring gets weak from the heat and makes the oil pressure gauge go crazy. And sometimes the oil pressure relief valve gets stuck wide open and they loose all pressure. If you're oil pressure gauge is going crazy just change your oil pump.
I replaced the oil pump and only got marginal improvement. I installed an oil cooler, which resolved the issue for about a year. At the end of the day the, the head gaskets were the problem. Second time I have scene this on a 3.0 Ranger.
@@chasingmustangs bad head gaskets were the problem ? May you please explain about that ?
@douglasdailey5998 I did a compression check, and two of the cyclinders had less than 120 psi. I should have checked that first.
@@chasingmustangs thank you very much for your reply. I just checked mine and you were exactly right. Mine has the same problem bad head gaskets. Thank you for your time.
Dang man. After all that only a small improvement is rough! Definitely a helpful video tho thank you
LOL, yes it was. Three days of solid work.
Cut the music please......
I have pretty much given up on Ford ranger 6 cylinder 3.0 engines. All they do is leak oil. I got one now sitting out front. It leaked so much oil it messed up the starter.
The Ford 3.0 is a challenging engine for sure. I have spent more time keeping the Ranger going, than all my other cars combine. Every Ford I have owned, has needed the Rear Main Seal and Oil Pan Gasket replaced. Especially when they get over 15 years old.
Main bearings make your oil pressure. Along with the pump. Head gasket oil leaks will cause oil pressure loss.
I ended up putting on an oil cooler and solved my pressure issue. I got a new Ranger, daughter totaled this truck, and it has the same issue. I think these trucks were defectives from the factory.
What a project! I did this like a week ago and the rear main seal won't fit correctly after i hit it using the old one on top of the new one. Guess what? Its still leaking and im about to go ahead and do it again !!!! What store did you buy the rear main seal ?
I bought the part at Autozone. Did you let the Rear Main Seal sit in oil for 30 minutes before installing? It will not install correctly, if you don't soak in oil. Also, there is an install tool you might want to buy. It is a metal sleeve, that goes on the crank shaft. It helps the seal slide into place.
I may be attempting a rear main seal soon myself, and this video was quite helpful. I do have a question.
How is the torque converter removed? Does it come as one piece with the transmission and is it held onto the flexplate in any way other than just bolts? If so, do you just remove the bolts and pull off the transmission?
I will admit I have never removed a transmission before, but I guess there is a first time for everything. Any advice is appreciated.
The torque converter is removed via the access plate on the transmission. There are four nuts holding the torque converter, to the flex plate. You will have to spin the engine to remove the four nuts. Once the four nuts are removed, the transmission and torque converter will come off together. Don't separate the torque converter from the transmission. You will spill about two quarters or fluid, in the process.
My number one recommendation is to get a transmission jack. Don't try using a regular jack. I bought a cheap one for 90 dollars at Harbor Freight. I recommend watching my video a few times, before starting. It is not hard process just very time consuming. Make sure you have BP Plaster and spray down the header bolts before starting. Also, make sure you have a wobbly 2 foot socket extender. It will make getting the transmission bolts and exhaust bolts off, a lot easier. Hope this helps. If I can do this, anybody can do this.
@@chasingmustangs That helps a lot. Thank you. Your did a very good job on this video 👏
You have to remove the four bolts connecting the torque converter to the flex plate. You do this by removing the access cover on the transmission and rotating the engine to remove all four nuts. So yes, as soon as you remove the four nuts connecting the torque converter to the flex plate, it will come off with the transmission.
The biggest recommendation I have is to purchase a transmission jack. I bought one for $90 at Harbor Freight. Don't try to use a regular jack, you will hurt yourself.
I also recommend you spend the time to replace the oil pan gasket. 90% of the work to replace the gasket is removing the transmission. You might as well as spend the two extra hours and replace the gasket.
I also uploaded a video about how I fixed my oil pressure issues with a oil cooler. If you have the jumping oil pressure issue, you might want to do that at the same time.
I hope this helps.
@@chasingmustangs Did all of this work? Have you looked at the cmp?
@@FormulaFelix It stopped the leaking, but did not solve the low oil pressure issue. I installed an oil cooler and it solved all my issues. I had checked the CMP and did not see an error codes. If you check my video list, I uploaded the video of installing the oil cooler.
Does the oil pump driveshaft have to be in a certain position when inserted into the motor or its good as long as it is seated in there all the way
Just has to be seated all the way. Position does not matter
What tool can you use to press the seal in
Honestly, the cheapest tool is to purchase a 2 inch and 3 inch shower drain at Home depot. www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-PVC-2-in-Round-Snap-In-Floor-Drain-435612/100187360. www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-in-Round-Snap-In-White-PVC-Shower-Drain-435652/100181694/ I use these to install a wide range of Rear Main Seals.
I'm intimidated now, and I did the timing cover gasket and water pump last year.
If you have an Edge model, it is a lot easier.
@@chasingmustangs I do have an Edge. How is it different? Thank you very much for your contributions.
@@nursegilbey It uses torsion bars and there is no cross member under the oil pan. You have direct access to the oil pan and can remove it without removing the transmission (the only exception would be if you want to change the rear main seal). Very easy to change the oil pump and gasket on a edge model.
@@chasingmustangs Thanks. I seem to have a rear main seal leak.
Just curious. Why didn't you prime the oil pump prior to installing??? Your viewers will be wondering. Just sayin'.
The instruction say to disconnect the ignition coil and to run the starter for 30 seconds, to prime. I thought I showed that in the video. Unless the heads or camshaft is removed, you don't have to spin the cam sync shaft, according to instructions. I didn't have any oil issues after completing the instructions. If you have different information, please share.
I have a rough idle on startup and then it goes away once warmed up. Did you have the same problem?
I have another video talking about idle issues. I recommend checking out the video.
So the oil pump is in the oil pan? Or right above when you take it off
So on the 3.8 engine, the oil pump is behind the oil filter. You can replace the gears very easy. To rebuild the oil pump completely, you have to remove the timing cover. The oil pump is driven of the timing chain.
Pls guys! My gauge is just stuck and not working at all. I can hear lifter noises. Would the oil pressure pump cause all these issues, or its just the lifters that are stuck?
You will need to go to a parts store and borrow an oil pressure guage. You will remove the oil presure sensor and connect the Guage. This will truly tell you if you have an oil pump issue. If the oil pressure is less than 10psi, you got problems. My truck would start at 40psi and would drop to 10psi after it warmed up. If pressure is low at startup (below 25 psi)and never increases, don't run it very long. You will ruin your engine. Low oil pressure will cause lifter noise, but a true pressure guage reading is needed to see if oil pump is the issue.
@@chasingmustangs thanks for the reply. I continued work on the truck today, and to my surprise, the previous owner, neglected servicing the engine. A lot of sludge in there, and it took me hours to have the lifters entirely removed from their bores. I'm servicing the lifters today, while replacing two. I'm also replacing some rocker arms on the driver side too. The grooves where the rocker arms plunger stays were worn out. Probably that's the reasons also for the noises.
Seeing the engine, I think I'd have to remove the engine from the truck, and do a proper washing of parts, before assembly.
I finally got to fix the oil pressure Guage thing. It has the connector that was left unplugged. I got the gauge at half mark now.
i have a 2000 ranger with a 3.0 vulcan and i am swapping a 02 taurus motor into it and don't want to change out the entire oil pump can i just swap out the pump screen and if so do i have to use the same one that came off of the old engine or can i use the screen from different years as long as it fits??
It depends on the oil pump. On some pumps, you can pull the pickup (and screen) off the pump and put it on the new pump. If you look at my video, the oil pump pickup was completely different on the new pump and I could not reuse the pickup.
Chasing Mustangs yeah I just ordered a new oil pump replaced the whole thing and my oil pan was hitting the shield below the crankshaft so I took that off and it fit just right
Once completely assembled, oil pump cannot prime on engine rotation.
The instruction say to disconnect the ignition coil and to run the starter for 30 seconds, to prime. I thought I showed that in the video. Unless the heads or camshaft is removed, you don't have to spin the cam sync shaft, according to instructions. I didn't have any oil issues after completing the instructions. If you have different information, please share.
How to replace a oil pump on a 2003 Ford Ranger
My Ford Ranger is a 2002 XLT. Should be the same instructions, unless you have a sport or 4x4 model.
I have the sport model It is pretty much the same except for it is definitely easier to remove the oil pan on the sport.
how do you do a real oil sensor on that ranger
I have a video talking about a Ranger flipping oil gauge. In the video I show how to replace the oil sensor.
You must live in a southern state.
Texas, DFW
When you say engine bearings, are you taking about the rob bearing?
Camshaft bearings. Known to be an issue with 3.0 L Ranger engines. Especially on trucks where regular oil changes did not happen.
@@chasingmustangs yeah I bought it off the street for 1000.00 cause of a cracked head. Put new heads and all the fixings, then all of a sudden oil guage start jumping like crazy. Guess this is my excuse to convert to the 4.0
@@YasapYaakov018 I was thinking about 2.3 Turbo installation in the future.
@@chasingmustangs that sounds nice, but I think some welding would be required.
@@YasapYaakov018 The early 2.3 Turbo engines will fit directly, but you have to replace the computer and cluster. The dash has to be modified to fit a cluster. The cluster and ECU cost more than the engine. About 3K versus 2K for a used engine. Oh, and the stock transmission could blow up.
U don't get you're oil pressure from the oil pump , all the oil pump does is pump the oil ,, you get the oil pressure from the crank , rods and cam Barron's , its the clearance between all these crank , rods and cam Barron's when working squeezes the oil in between them that gives you you're oil pressure but I'm like you I would putt one in IIT to to see if it helps and put some more miles on it cuz u never know
I finally solved the issue putting in an oil cooler. I also noticed better oil pressure using Valvoline vs. cheap AutoZone STP oil.
Sorry, voice text made a mess lol. Oil cooler? Did it really help oil pressure? I replaced heads, rockers and lifters on my 4.0 ohv, and when truck warms up, ticks horribly. Wanting to try oil cooler if it worked for you?
@@trinogt yes, it worked to resolve my low oil pressure issues. I did not have oil pressure issues when the truck started. I only had oil pressure issues after the oil warmed up. If you replaced the oil pump already, then an oil cooler could help.
Is the camera hanging on your head? It appears as you went to pick up the anti rust bottle, it was on your forehead.
Menh, I love the rock music's you're playing.
Yes, I put the Camera on my head. These projects take to much time to do still camera filming. I don't make money on RUclips, so I do the best I can with what I got.
If u had some air tools would been faster
I would've replaced the tops of the rod bearings, and the bottoms of main bearings while the pan was down and that oil pressure would have been peachy.
Yah, probably should have done that.
I'd be doing same on my ranger. That should take care of oil pressure issues.
All that work for nothing and you didn't even put a new oil pump in it , dam motors worn out !!!!!
I replaced the oil pump to be safe, but no it was not the low oil issue. .
Sell my truck
hey are you still around?
I have a 96 ford ranger leaking oil? I'm thinking oil pan/gasket but I read someone saying they just replaced the oil filter gasket but when I search that, all that comes up is f150 stuff.
Sorry, I don't know anything about Rangers before 99. Depending on the engine, you will not have a oil filter gasket. Some cars have the pump behind the filter and others the filter is part of the block.
@@chasingmustangs oh ok, that makes sense. I'm going to get into soon and find out lol thank you for the reply!