“It’s making that noise because the ABS is disengaged” dude no it’s not… this right here is the exact reason I’m worried to buy an 80 series. Your axles are binding. The fj80 is a work of art. Sad to see them being messed up.
I agree with you it IS a work of art...One of the last ones with solid axle for both front and rear wheels. Interestingly tho, I knew that when the truck is fully locked the steering wheel becomes very tight (as I've seen in other videos). Also of interest is that I never knew that doing these sorts of demos would actually ruin the vehicle. Personally, I'd keep the vehicle idling (foot on brake) but just turn the steering wheel to see how hard it becomes. That way I'm not really putting any pressure on the axles...I'd also agree that the noise is from the applied torsion on the rigid axles...
I bought one with 320k miles with a bad cylinder. The previous owner took it to a shop to have it fixed which they did but it failed again after a month or so. Does it make sense to swap the engine? Or do a rebuild?
@Alex Chandler I didn't really have time to deal with it. I bought it for $500, it stood in the garage for about 2 years, it took too much space so I sold it for $4500 and bought a classic I'm gladly working on.
Probably wasn't engaged enough during its working life. Lockers are recommended to be engaged and used several times a year just to get the proper lubrication through it.
It means a few things. The front differential is locked meaning each wheel gets equal power. Non locked axles take the path of least resistence so if you have a tire in the air that's the one that spins, not the one you want to spin on the ground. Same for the rear. Center locking diff means the engines rotational force is divided equally between front and rear axles. By far the least important of the "triple" but it's better than not having it. Basically if you were in a situation where torque was necessary to get you out of a hole your front wheels step in and say "I got this". I hope I explained that well.
Dude you are locking your diffs on dry road and turn. That’s why you hear noise, your drivetrain is screaming „what the fck!?“
🤣🤣🤣🤦♂️
Nice FZJ80! If you are going to do a video of the 4wd works you should do it in dirt road. Good job and keep the videos coming.
Bros all locked up !!!
“It’s making that noise because the ABS is disengaged” dude no it’s not… this right here is the exact reason I’m worried to buy an 80 series. Your axles are binding. The fj80 is a work of art. Sad to see them being messed up.
I agree with you it IS a work of art...One of the last ones with solid axle for both front and rear wheels. Interestingly tho, I knew that when the truck is fully locked the steering wheel becomes very tight (as I've seen in other videos). Also of interest is that I never knew that doing these sorts of demos would actually ruin the vehicle. Personally, I'd keep the vehicle idling (foot on brake) but just turn the steering wheel to see how hard it becomes. That way I'm not really putting any pressure on the axles...I'd also agree that the noise is from the applied torsion on the rigid axles...
Great video but you never want to engage lockers in pavement if all possible
If I were you I would delete this video or name it what not to do on blacktop when in 4 wheel drive .
Hard surface and four low is a MAJOR no-no.
I bought one with 320k miles with a bad cylinder. The previous owner took it to a shop to have it fixed which they did but it failed again after a month or so.
Does it make sense to swap the engine? Or do a rebuild?
the engines can be rebuilt up to three times as toyota stated
@Alex Chandler I didn't really have time to deal with it. I bought it for $500, it stood in the garage for about 2 years, it took too much space so I sold it for $4500 and bought a classic I'm gladly working on.
Is your temp Guage normal?
Mine reach half when I drive on sand on a hot day
My rear one never engages. Need mine looked at :(
Probably wasn't engaged enough during its working life. Lockers are recommended to be engaged and used several times a year just to get the proper lubrication through it.
@@bogotstogoskiing I figured it out, it works, just had to drive forward a bit to make it actually line up inside the diff to lock.
dude, delete this and start over on dirt.......
Omfg! Are you really going triple locked on dry pavement? Smh.
What do you mean by triple locked?
It means a few things. The front differential is locked meaning each wheel gets equal power. Non locked axles take the path of least resistence so if you have a tire in the air that's the one that spins, not the one you want to spin on the ground. Same for the rear. Center locking diff means the engines rotational force is divided equally between front and rear axles. By far the least important of the "triple" but it's better than not having it. Basically if you were in a situation where torque was necessary to get you out of a hole your front wheels step in and say "I got this". I hope I explained that well.
@@bogotstogoskiing sweet just asking because I bought an old jeep that has that option.. (from air locks, rear locker, hub locks)
@@9graff9 Gotcha and nice! Hub locks are the ones on your front wheels that you have to manually turn just to be able to even engage 4wd.
@@bogotstogoskiing yes I usually lock the hubs and lock the front air locker.. thanks for everyone's reply I appreciate you guys!!
You shouldn't engage lockers on pavement. It was meant to get you out trouble in mud dirt snow in a short distance.
Oh man you are locking difs on tarmac, never do that