Actually, if your guard doesn’t quite match with your handle, buy fiber spacer material from any knifemaking supply store. You cut it to fit, and it compresses a bit, making a seamless joint. It comes in many nice colors, if you want a color accent. This also works between the tang and handles.
What I enjoy most about your videos is the pace. Short but measured and deliberate so the the viewer sees everything slow enough to understand each individual segment that goes into the finished piece. You sir were created to teach. Thank you. Wishing you and yours a safe and happy holiday season.
Walter...you have convinced me to try my hand at a sandwich tang, I've been having trouble with my hidden tangs and I'm finally gonna have my go at a sandwich tang,l. Wish me luck! Thanks again
Awesome Video. I've been re-handling knives for years. A favorite blade can be transformed into a new knife. Just like a watch band or a new set of wheels for your 1968 F150.
Thank you for this engaging and informative video. I confess that, by the end, I was so emotionally invested in the dummy knife that I yearned for you to carry on and finish it, though I knew it was probably just a slab of mild steel. I envy you your wide selection of shop tools - I just use a small angle grinder, drill press and files. I'd love to have the chance to make just one knife in such a well-equipped shop!
@@arn6376 press fit pivots, and press fit tang pins on balisongs and other knives that have them Also makes pinning a regular knife handle rather easy to set them in place before they get peened I paid like 70ish for mine, it's a 1/2 ton from palmgren off ebay want to get the rivet setup for mine once I start doing kydex stuff too
@@KABAR1943 right on man thanks for the reply! I just got started with kydex and just have a couple spyderco mule teams I’m making handles for and really wanted to do flared stainless tubes on them. Probably getting a head of myself if I invest in a arbor press as I don’t actually make knives yet, but man I love the look of flared tubing rivets in knife handles lol Thanks again man
All of your videos are always fun to watch & full of info but this video goes above & beyond! Thanks p.s. I’ve used a lot of grizzly tools over the years you won’t find anything more solid & long lived.
Gaurd tip: you can heat just about any material but aluminum and punch and drift your guard slot, its how they were done before the age of steam. the reason i excluded aluminum is you cant really judge the temperature of aluminum.
When I was a kid growing up in my dad’s welding shop. He bought bandsaw blade in bulk rolls. We would cut it to length and silver solder it together in a jig we made for the task. It never broke until the blade was shot and usually broke else where.
Man, I'm using what I got to make handles for my saw blades, I have chisels and a couple detail saws. This was helpful, even though I have no real power tools haha. Mine just take longer.
Hi, great video. Hey I have a 2002 USA made Marbles Fieldcraft knife..similar to the classic woodcraft knife from back In the day, just a bit smaller. I love the quality but some of the brass handle discs protrude out a little higher than the plastic discs. Can I sand these down to even the handle out or should probably not even worry about it? Thanks
Have you done a stacked handle with mixed woods and brass spacers and a filed pommel / guard? That's one of the first styles of knives I built when I started 35 years ago. Great stuff as usual Walter 👍
Hi Walter! I'm really confused about what the best procedure is for attaching removeable slab handles to a full-tang knife with screw fasteners is. Specifically where I am having issues is figuring out the lengths of the screws and barrels to use and how to best drill the countersunk holes. I could figure it out before contouring, but that puts me in danger of hitting the screws while shaping the handle. If I shape the handle first, I have several unknowns to deal with about the screw/barrel dimensions and how to countersink. Seems like a chicken and egg problem. How is this done by the pros?
I'm an artist new to knife making. I've graduated from acid etching and sharpening to now making my handles. Got lucky, and have a nice Black Walnut tree in my yard (25 years, and I never knew I had an expensive tree on the property). So does anyone have tips on how to dry/cure the wood? My only inclination is to cut a few sections. and dry it by an indoor heater, then oil it. Any advice would be appreciated.
He was robbed a win because the contestants don't temper their own blades, and the temper was done wrong. 100% not his fault. He had the most beautiful blade the 1st round has ever seen too!
@@jeffsmith5589 no sane person would ever claim it was. It does bring someone as good as Walter to the front of the stage in an entertaining way, which I believe is the whole point of the show.
I by far agree. Some of the best got shot down because of this very reason. Walter losing never changed my opinion about him. Or for that matter any smith that goes on the show. They are putting themselves up against impossible odds to complete unrealistic tasks. But that's what makes it a great show! My kudos to any blade maker that steps up to this plate!
When using the arbor press for the tube rivets what is the cone shaped bit called I can't seem to find the key word it would help me a lot in the future if I could use this method.
You could definitely get away with waaay fewer tools. You don't *need* a band saw, belt sander, or a drill press. They'd make it easier but you could probably manage this with a basic drill, some sandpaper, and something to cut wood with, like a handsaw of some variety.
You can absolutely make even the most intricate pieces with zero, and I do mean zero power tools. Vikings, gladiators, samurai warriors etc etc are a perfect example of Bladesmithing without one single electrical source. Time consuming? Ohhh yeah. Impossible? Ohhhh no.
What is your opinion on drilling pin holes after epoxy on full tang knives? I don't have the greatest drill press and I often fight my pins to getting them to line up.
I have been restoring my grandpa's Camillus knife from WWII and it has a handle made from stacked leather coin sized sections. Would it be best to try and remake the coins (original ones weren't salvageable) or to build another type of handle?
Since it's grandpa's and you said "restore", I'd replicate the stacked leather. Can't say I've done one, but they don't look super hard.( unless you watch FiF......ha ha ha ) YT has vid's from people in the know and if you use the proper heavy leather and do a couple test ones first, you'll feel better having stayed true to the knife than if you take an easier route like wood slabs. Remember, Grandpa walked to school up hill, in both directions and dinner was always pigs feet and onions.....mostly onions and would say "If your gonna do something......" :)
definitely redo them, its not hard but use sharp tools, and resharp them often. Leather really takes a toll on an edge. If you want to save money get an old 2nd hand store real leather belt or 2 for that leather, for the rest go for it.
Thanks for another great video Walter, you have helped me along the way huge. The first example with the flared pins, I fully expected you to use epoxy as well and I was wrong lol. No issues with the scales loosening up over time?
Greetings! Thank you for a great channel, and all the great information you generously share with us.. I have a question unrelated to this video directly, but I searched your other videos and it doesn't look like you've covered it already; I hope you forgive the intrusion...Does stainless steel go through the same colour changes during hardening, tempering, annealing etc as tool steel? I need to make some precision tools out of stainlees, and was hoping for some of your expert insights on the last stages..thank you!
Now that we are talking about handels, i have a somewhat related question. I have searched far and wide, but does anybody know how a traditional kogatana (the knife that sits in a katana tsuba) is fitted in a kozuka? the Kozuka is basically a hollow metal box. is there wood in here? is the kogatana glued in? i also never see it secured with a pin.
I have a portaband mounted to a table made by "Swag." It was easy to assemble and works great. I'm limited by the throat of the saw itself, but without dumping a paycheck into a piece of equipment, it's a good solution for me.
Forged in England except stainless doesn’t hold an edge as well as high carbon does. Thais why a lot of professional chefs use high carbon. Stainless has it’s place but it isn’t the best for everything.
@@jessemarshall7176 that's true but from him asking about rust Im guessing he's constantly using it in a damp area. Obviously will need to sharpen it more frequently.
@@jessemarshall7176 You have high edge retention stainless steels like S30V, S90V, M390, 3V but they are not exactly cheap and can drive the price of the knife way outta some people's league.
I want to put handles on a blade that has pre-drilled holes for pins...Does anyone ever peen hammer the pins on each side of handle or does everyone just epoxy the pins in place?
U not supposed to drill after u heat treat because most steel u would buy is anealed witch means it’s in a state where it’s easy to grind so u would drill the holes right after u shape the knife
Am I the only one that doesn't like the shape of tangs on kit blades? I always want the handle scales to be bigger than the tang. I have added material (wood or epoxy) to fill the gap between the scales around the tang. I think they call it a mortice. I have had to figure this out on my own, haven't seen any videos about making handle scales bigger than the tang.
Well firewood is normally dry and weak, so it wouldnt make a good handle. It could crack or split when you try to cut it or drill it. Besides, It's not the best looking wood. A good piece of walnut wood or hickory is solid, and relatively cheap. Good luck and keep up the good work. Took me months to complete my first knife and I scrapped lots of steel and wood!
SniperArts without speed control the best you can do is use a good fresh belt and less pressure or you can cut the bulk away and rasp/sandpaper the rest although it is slow. If possible try to upgrade to a vfd it makes a world of difference having speed control
For someone who has never made a knife, I find this video honestly unhelpful. Its basically a video of being told not to make the handle how its showed in the video but instead do it a different way that I'm not showing you.
If Eric from Corter leather is my teacher for leather, you are my teacher for knife making, thank you for the awesome knowledge
Actually, if your guard doesn’t quite match with your handle, buy fiber spacer material from any knifemaking supply store. You cut it to fit, and it compresses a bit, making a seamless joint. It comes in many nice colors, if you want a color accent. This also works between the tang and handles.
What I enjoy most about your videos is the pace. Short but measured and deliberate so the the viewer sees everything slow enough to understand each individual segment that goes into the finished piece. You sir were created to teach. Thank you. Wishing you and yours a safe and happy holiday season.
Always enjoy and learn something new when watching your videos. So thanks
Nice, made a couple knives today, needed to know how to make a handle. This was perfect.
Thanks for showing the two methods of tang fixing to the scales
Walter...you have convinced me to try my hand at a sandwich tang, I've been having trouble with my hidden tangs and I'm finally gonna have my go at a sandwich tang,l. Wish me luck! Thanks again
Picked up some GREAT knowledge and pointers. I was unaware of a few different approaches to which you eluded to.
Absolutely fantastic as always. Thanks for the ideas.
Awesome Video. I've been re-handling knives for years. A favorite blade can be transformed into a new knife. Just like a watch band or a new set of wheels for your 1968 F150.
Walter U legend! I still watch every vid u make and watch them over again. I hope ill have space to make knifes like you some day. 👍 Love ya man 💪💪
Thank you for this engaging and informative video.
I confess that, by the end, I was so emotionally invested in the dummy knife that I yearned for you to carry on and finish it, though I knew it was probably just a slab of mild steel.
I envy you your wide selection of shop tools - I just use a small angle grinder, drill press and files. I'd love to have the chance to make just one knife in such a well-equipped shop!
Thanks Walter for sharing your wisdom, always enjoy watching your videos of tips & techniques.
That arbor press is a very underrated tool, It paid for itself fast
I’ve been on the fence about getting one for tube rivets. What else you use it for?
@@arn6376 press fit pivots, and press fit tang pins on balisongs and other knives that have them
Also makes pinning a regular knife handle rather easy to set them in place before they get peened
I paid like 70ish for mine, it's a 1/2 ton from palmgren off ebay
want to get the rivet setup for mine once I start doing kydex stuff too
@@KABAR1943 right on man thanks for the reply! I just got started with kydex and just have a couple spyderco mule teams I’m making handles for and really wanted to do flared stainless tubes on them.
Probably getting a head of myself if I invest in a arbor press as I don’t actually make knives yet, but man I love the look of flared tubing rivets in knife handles lol
Thanks again man
Great video thanks for the tutelage!
Thanks for all the tips
this was really informational thank you
All of your videos are always fun to watch & full of info but this video goes above & beyond! Thanks
p.s. I’ve used a lot of grizzly tools over the years you won’t find anything more solid & long lived.
Thanks Walter!
I just make shanks at the machine shop I work at and im here to get better at it lol
Gaurd tip: you can heat just about any material but aluminum and punch and drift your guard slot, its how they were done before the age of steam. the reason i excluded aluminum is you cant really judge the temperature of aluminum.
Thanks for this video I have learned to the blades but the handles are where I'm having problems now
Another great video - everything explained and shown clearly and simply.
When I was a kid growing up in my dad’s welding shop. He bought bandsaw blade in bulk rolls. We would cut it to length and silver solder it together in a jig we made for the task. It never broke until the blade was shot and usually broke else where.
Man, I'm using what I got to make handles for my saw blades, I have chisels and a couple detail saws.
This was helpful, even though I have no real power tools haha.
Mine just take longer.
thank you this helped a ton.
Awesome.....thanks for this video!!!
Another great video Mr Sorrells.
I have the proper blade for a tanto , could you post a vid on some variations I could consider ? Your awesome thamk
Ty Sir
thank you for sharing - great
I really liked the video great information I needed
So helpful!
Awesome video ☺️🙏
Hi, great video. Hey I have a 2002 USA made Marbles Fieldcraft knife..similar to the classic woodcraft knife from back In the day, just a bit smaller. I love the quality but some of the brass handle discs protrude out a little higher than the plastic discs. Can I sand these down to even the handle out or should probably not even worry about it? Thanks
Have you done a stacked handle with mixed woods and brass spacers and a filed pommel / guard? That's one of the first styles of knives I built when I started 35 years ago. Great stuff as usual Walter 👍
Great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi Walter! I'm really confused about what the best procedure is for attaching removeable slab handles to a full-tang knife with screw fasteners is. Specifically where I am having issues is figuring out the lengths of the screws and barrels to use and how to best drill the countersunk holes. I could figure it out before contouring, but that puts me in danger of hitting the screws while shaping the handle. If I shape the handle first, I have several unknowns to deal with about the screw/barrel dimensions and how to countersink. Seems like a chicken and egg problem. How is this done by the pros?
I'm an artist new to knife making. I've graduated from acid etching and sharpening to now making my handles. Got lucky, and have a nice Black Walnut tree in my yard (25 years, and I never knew I had an expensive tree on the property). So does anyone have tips on how to dry/cure the wood? My only inclination is to cut a few sections. and dry it by an indoor heater, then oil it. Any advice would be appreciated.
Wish you would go round 2 on forged in fire. Still think you are a great knife maker!
He was robbed a win because the contestants don't temper their own blades, and the temper was done wrong. 100% not his fault. He had the most beautiful blade the 1st round has ever seen too!
Forged in fire is not a true test of a blade smith abilities
@@jeffsmith5589 no sane person would ever claim it was. It does bring someone as good as Walter to the front of the stage in an entertaining way, which I believe is the whole point of the show.
I by far agree. Some of the best got shot down because of this very reason. Walter losing never changed my opinion about him. Or for that matter any smith that goes on the show. They are putting themselves up against impossible odds to complete unrealistic tasks. But that's what makes it a great show! My kudos to any blade maker that steps up to this plate!
Can you do this with an arbor press?
When using the arbor press for the tube rivets what is the cone shaped bit called I can't seem to find the key word it would help me a lot in the future if I could use this method.
Hey @Walter Sorrells I noticed you didn’t use a countersink for your flared tube rivets, I thought this was kind of important from what I’ve read?
RIP to people who have none of this machinery or tools😢
You could definitely get away with waaay fewer tools. You don't *need* a band saw, belt sander, or a drill press. They'd make it easier but you could probably manage this with a basic drill, some sandpaper, and something to cut wood with, like a handsaw of some variety.
I used chisels and a hand drill to make grips recently it is tougher by a little but it’s certainly not impossible
You can absolutely make even the most intricate pieces with zero, and I do mean zero power tools. Vikings, gladiators, samurai warriors etc etc are a perfect example of Bladesmithing without one single electrical source. Time consuming? Ohhh yeah. Impossible? Ohhhh no.
I do my handles all by hand and it doesn’t take as long as you might think but I do have a nice vise, rasp and solid drill press
@2:58 why didn’t you add any epoxy?
hey, i would love to do this i just don't know how to start. What type of wood and things like that. what would you say?
Looking for answers here, i have a saber blade but the tang is too short its as long as a pinky! How can i fit a hilt for it!?
"I like drilling the hole after it's been glued up"🤣
I value this video
All I have to say is u seem like a pretty cool guy
What is your opinion on drilling pin holes after epoxy on full tang knives? I don't have the greatest drill press and I often fight my pins to getting them to line up.
Great tips!
I have been restoring my grandpa's Camillus knife from WWII and it has a handle made from stacked leather coin sized sections. Would it be best to try and remake the coins (original ones weren't salvageable) or to build another type of handle?
Check out this video ruclips.net/video/BeXNVbKxH30/видео.html , that might help you on your way.
Since it's grandpa's and you said "restore", I'd replicate the stacked leather. Can't say I've done one, but they don't look super hard.( unless you watch FiF......ha ha ha )
YT has vid's from people in the know and if you use the proper heavy leather and do a couple test ones first, you'll feel better having stayed true to the knife than if you take an easier route like wood slabs. Remember, Grandpa walked to school up hill, in both directions and dinner was always pigs feet and onions.....mostly onions and would say "If your gonna do something......" :)
definitely redo them, its not hard but use sharp tools, and resharp them often. Leather really takes a toll on an edge. If you want to save money get an old 2nd hand store real leather belt or 2 for that leather, for the rest go for it.
I have tried to make it, this is not easy, but I managed to do it
Thanks for another great video Walter, you have helped me along the way huge. The first example with the flared pins, I fully expected you to use epoxy as well and I was wrong lol. No issues with the scales loosening up over time?
L1llp
Thanks for info. Take care and God bless.
Love the videos
Very cool!
Nice..🙏🙏❤️❤️
Greetings! Thank you for a great channel, and all the great information you generously share with us..
I have a question unrelated to this video directly, but I searched your other videos and it doesn't look like you've covered it already; I hope you forgive the intrusion...Does stainless steel go through the same colour changes during hardening, tempering, annealing etc as tool steel? I need to make some precision tools out of stainlees, and was hoping for some of your expert insights on the last stages..thank you!
Class
Now that we are talking about handels, i have a somewhat related question.
I have searched far and wide, but does anybody know how a traditional kogatana (the knife that sits in a katana tsuba) is fitted in a kozuka?
the Kozuka is basically a hollow metal box. is there wood in here? is the kogatana glued in? i also never see it secured with a pin.
Are there any good quality inexpensive ban saws that you would recommend?
Bug-Out Boy sawzaw are the most reliable for the money but a step down Milwaukee. Step up skil
@@justinmielsch5936 Thanks!
Bug-Out Boy 👍
I have a portaband mounted to a table made by "Swag." It was easy to assemble and works great. I'm limited by the throat of the saw itself, but without dumping a paycheck into a piece of equipment, it's a good solution for me.
Thanks for shering Walter!
Just today I screwed up a knife handle so this is convenient
For finishing...how to keep blade from rusting. How to seal a wooden handle properly.
Well ideally you should be using stainless steel which shouldn't rust
Forged in England except stainless doesn’t hold an edge as well as high carbon does. Thais why a lot of professional chefs use high carbon. Stainless has it’s place but it isn’t the best for everything.
@@jessemarshall7176 that's true but from him asking about rust Im guessing he's constantly using it in a damp area. Obviously will need to sharpen it more frequently.
@@jessemarshall7176 You have high edge retention stainless steels like S30V, S90V, M390, 3V but they are not exactly cheap and can drive the price of the knife way outta some people's league.
Will S true but I’m assuming the comment on this video means he doesn’t have the correct heat treating equipment for stainless.
I want to put handles on a blade that has pre-drilled holes for pins...Does anyone ever peen hammer the pins on each side of handle or does everyone just epoxy the pins in place?
No epoxy on all your TA handles ?
I'm just here for the voice "more tips for the knife maker! "
Been watching this guy since he post video about making tamahagane with jesus hernandez. Those words never get old for me! 😊
If somebody asked me what a real American sounds like, I'd play that intro for them.
@@RudolfSadolino haha definitely love his voice (nohomo)
@@ABRestoration Sounds like you are homophobic.
@@MrAkwaholic what? I'm homophobic because I said I'm not homosexual that's a new one
The alert bell was disconnected? This is not the only channel i have had something happen too it. Shit happens so be aware.
He reminds me of the ( if blank where honest ) guy
Do you heat treat before you drill for the cross pin on the hidden tang? Is there a trick to drilling the heat treated steel?
Awesome video!
U not supposed to drill after u heat treat because most steel u would buy is anealed witch means it’s in a state where it’s easy to grind so u would drill the holes right after u shape the knife
Am I the only one that doesn't like the shape of tangs on kit blades? I always want the handle scales to be bigger than the tang. I have added material (wood or epoxy) to fill the gap between the scales around the tang. I think they call it a mortice. I have had to figure this out on my own, haven't seen any videos about making handle scales bigger than the tang.
"Whole key" or "hole key"?
Whuoual kèy
Hulk-ie
👍
you need to make a video with alec steel :D
That be like paring Dave Clark and Akira Takasaki on meth. We'd likely finally get to hear Mr. Sorrells use the F word though....... har har har.
I’m getting into this so why not make own handles from firewood that’s is sold for free nearly every where just come and get it only catch
Well firewood is normally dry and weak, so it wouldnt make a good handle. It could crack or split when you try to cut it or drill it. Besides, It's not the best looking wood. A good piece of walnut wood or hickory is solid, and relatively cheap. Good luck and keep up the good work. Took me months to complete my first knife and I scrapped lots of steel and wood!
@@bobbinette3368 yea I tryed to make one last night it cracked it definitely use what you recommended
I wonder if anyone can make it at home after watching the video.
12 old me watching before making a knife for my fathers birthday
Want a cookie?
How to you not burn the wood
SniperArts when are you burning the wood? Cutting or grinding?
Fresh sandpaper, slower speed, Sharp sawblades
Grinding and I only have a single phase grinder
SniperArts without speed control the best you can do is use a good fresh belt and less pressure or you can cut the bulk away and rasp/sandpaper the rest although it is slow. If possible try to upgrade to a vfd it makes a world of difference having speed control
I have the bador single phase can I just buy a conversion kit
Do a scream kinfe😂😂
People that have all of that power equipment don’t need any of these instructions.
Using this video to come up with ideas for my handle wasnt a good idea considering all these are plane af
I clicked on this on purpose but when it started I assumed it was an ad and so I moved to skip the video
101...then proceeds to use 20k worth of machinery. Gimme a break. I'm out. NO THUMBS UP FOR YOU.
Make it wooden with the help of the Stodoys instructions.
Hide videos
For someone who has never made a knife, I find this video honestly unhelpful. Its basically a video of being told not to make the handle how its showed in the video but instead do it a different way that I'm not showing you.
23 dec 2023 5:52 am est ( utc - 5 ) :
thanks . i start seeing-with-fast-foward-and-rewind this movie '14 nov 2023 10:44 pm est ( utc - 5 )'