Installing Peco Electrofrog Turnouts (142)
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- For some time now I have been getting questions from folks on how to install Peco Electrofrog turnouts. So I decided to use them on this model railroad layout as a way of demonstrating the process I use. So in this video I'll show you how I convert these to DCC Friendly configuration and then install them on the layout. Once I get all of the turnouts and track installed we'll be ready to come back and install the DCC power bus, track feeders, and finally the Blue Point turnout controllers. So it looks like I'll be busy over the next week or so getting to that point. For now though let's install some turnouts.
this is a big thanks from me, i am no expert on electrics but discovered this video via one of you books. i have been very frustrated by small steam locos stalling at some of my points i have now adapted my points using your method and i am sooo grateful, locos now run through all my points without stalling.
thank you , thank you
keith
"Frogs are green". I like that little tip for wiring. Thanks Larry.
That's a well worn wiring axiom :-)
Actually, thanks go to Kermit -- "It's not easy being green..."
Thank you so much Larry, you're a lifesaver. I had so much trouble with my Peco points until I came across your solution. Loco's go through now without a problem. Thanks again Larry.
Thanks Larry I learned something new every time I watch 1 of your videos
Thanks Larry. First time I have understood why we should modify these points: because of the probability of a poor contact between the live rail and the blade of the switch. Very neatly done.
Like the idea for wiring the points. Wish I knew that before I built my layout. As you say would have saved me a lot of soldering and wiring. Will definitely use it in the future.
Nice one Mr. P. Like the idea of making the cut on the outside of the frog. Effectively makes the point a “unifrog”. Bonus as well is no insulating fishplates which tend to be quite visible. Think I’ll go with the existing break sections and tie to the stock rails. Just means a little less to modify. Excellent idea.
Larry; thanks for work on these videos giving me concepts to try as I rebuild my railroad. In rebuilding I'm doing many firsts; e.g. foam base, tortoise machines and Peco turnouts. As info though, what I found is the gaps that you point out at about the 3:50 mark then again at about 15:30 of the video do not exist now on either the short radius turnouts or the wyes. I'm not inclined to mess with cutting away any of the ties in fear of damaging the structural integrity of the turnout. A minor challenge but not something that cannot be overcome.
Again, thank you for all of the great info that you share enabling me to improve upon my operations. Cheers.
Nice to have good information making the turn out built proof. Thanks
Great job.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Hi doses this concept work still if I’m not using switch machines but instead use caboose industries manual switches and what would I do differently
Larry on the PECO electro frog video do you remove the two smal jumper wire? To make the cut modifications you demonstrated?
Plus I have four electro frogs #4 small radius but they are not made the same as the #6 or #8. Will the small radius turnouts, looks as if they would not require the the cut in front of the frog as the med and large radius?
Does peco track work with bachmann track? Because my turnouts have plastic frog and my 0-6-0 stalls so I need a powered frog, so does peco connect with bachmann track
I assume you mean EZ Track? If so then it would not be an easy or pretty fit. EZ Track has the molded plastic “ballast” whereas Peco is basically just rails and ties.
Great video and explanation. A simple question though. I noticed you kept the jumpers in across the factory cut for the frog and then dremeled closer to the frog. Electrically it looks like where the factory jumper is installed, and left intact is the same as where you cut. Is your reasoning just to shorten the frog rail area?
My goal is to cut the frog back as far as possible on both sides and keep it as shirt as possible. Just look at how small it is on the new Unifrogs.
Hello Larry, I have a PECO scissor turnout and I'm wondering if I can set it up so that a single throw will change all four points. If I can do that, then all four IN should enable two trains to pass through in parallel and all four OUT should enable a single train to cross over between inside and outside loops. (My first track - it will be DCC) - Ray
You can use multiple switch machines or you could use bell cranks or some other type of connections to throw all at one time. If it is a double slip then you would only need 2 switch machines since the throw bar moves 2 sets of points at each end. You just need to wire them so they throw the points the way you desire when you throw a control switch.
👍👍👍
Excellent Larry
Hi Larry. At 6:48 you talk about the small wire that will go to the switch. Is that a wire provided by Peco or did you put that in yourself? At 14:50 you talk about adding a new jumper but I am not sure why that jumper is needed. You said that the frog (after the cuts) is independently powered by that wire. So, what is the purpose of the jumper?
The Peco turnouts come with the wire attached to the frog.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks. I wound up seeing this in a different video. Your channel is a wealth of information for those, like me, just trying to get into the hobby.
Larry, I'm just returning to model railroading after a decade hiatus, this time using N scale. I just ordered a handful of PECO Code 55 electrofrog turnouts (as Unifrog were unavailable). They appear to be fundamentally different from HO turnouts. As I examine my turnouts, the only jumper I see is one that runs across the two sections of the frog (and the frog wire which I'd use to power the frog is missing). When I look for spots to power the closure rails from the stock rails those spots are missing as well, with the only place large enough to put a drop of solder being directly under the hinges. Am I pretty much doomed to use this use these turnouts "as is" and install insulated joiners on the 2 rails coming from the frog?
From your description it sounds to me as though you received Insulfrog turnouts not Electrofrogs. I suggest you compare the turnouts to the instructions in the package and see if something got swapped at some point. Insulfrog turnouts have insulated, electrcially dead frogs. Electrofrogs have frogs that are electrically live that can be configured to be controlled by a Tortoise or other switch motor with internal switches designed for that purpose, that is why they have the wire attached to them. The N scale version may be different so I suggest you look at the info to see if he has specifics on N scale versions on www.wiringfordcc.com .
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry … these are truly LIVE frogs. There is a very thin wire on the underside bridging between closure rails and frog. Frog is all metal. And instructions tell me that i must use insulated track joiners on frog extensions in the layout. I was hoping to modify as you do for HO scale, but it appears that N scale because of size, is built differently. Will go to your reference for further input. Thanks.
Why not cut the factory jumpers and you dont have to cut the rails on one end??? Your cutting the rail when all you had to do was cut the factory jumpers. I don't understand.
As I remember cutting the jumpers only isolates the frog from the closure and point rails not the frog rails. Isolating the frog rails can cure shorts that occur when folks cross the gaps where they join the running rails. If you don’t cut them you are basically left with a very long frog. This configuration is essentially what Peco has gone to with their new unifrog design.
have i missed something, where is the wiring for the points and switch?
As I explained in the video because of my modifications, the free ends of the turnout can be soldered to the powered rails they connect to and they receive power from them. Only the frog has to be wired to a Tortoise or other switch machine or power.
Dear, the turnout conversion detail is interesting, however it was not clear to me how the two interior tracks, which remain between the cuts made, are electrically powered. Sorry but English is not my native language. greetings
Depending in the type and design of the turnout there may be internal connections that pass electricity through to other rails. In some cases such as the frog rails some may depend on a soldered connection to powered rails. Just flip the turnout over and look for various connections netween the rails.
Larry, thanks for your help with understanding DCC. I have 3 parallel tracks that are going to go through a tunnel. Each track is a different power district and they have their own circuit breaker. In order to go through the tunnel I am going to use turnouts to combine two of the tracks. I have a peco insulfrog turnout on one side of the tunnel and a curved electro frog turnout on the other side of the tunnel to separate the tracks I just joined. Does it matter if you use different types of turnouts? Also I assume my NCE Power Pro DCC will be able to handle this brief joining of 2 power districts? I am going to use bluepoint machines to throw the turnouts. Thanks again for all your time and sharing your knowledge.
There should be no problems as long as you properly isolate the changeover at the points where you move between blocks.
Thank you, I appreciate your help.
With AC current you have to be concerned about polarity. That is why I'm Markin user.
I meant to say you don't have to be concerned about polarity.
Using Peco SL-E88's and SL-89's for crossovers with Walthers switch machines. Do I need to follow the installation instructions that came with Walthers switches to install the Peco's?
I would. Be aware that there are 2 micro switches on the machine, one on either side. These can be used to provide then correct polarity to the frogs.
I just re-red your message and am not clear on what you mean exactly by using the Walthers switches instructions to install the Pecos. Did you mean follow the Walthers switch MACHINE instructions?
@@TheDCCGuy yes switch machine instructions. Sorry.
How do you determine which micro switch to use? Then what is other side for? Or can I just attach a wire from Common to the tab provided on side of switch?
Do you have a You Tube video of exact installation procedure?
They just stuck 2 on there and didn’t provide any info on them in the instructions. I talked to their expert on them to confirm this. So you could use them for anything, just like the Tortoise has 2. Just attach the common to the frog and the NO&NC to the DCC bus. If you get the polarity wrong just swap them. One switch can supply both frogs leaving the other micro switch free for a signal or whatever. One of these days I will do a video as soon as I install another crossover somewhere on the layout.
Hi Larry,
I started to setup my train layout that has been in storage for about 15-20 years in my basement. (shelf basement) the concrete shelf around the basement comes up about 42-48" so part of the bench work is laying on top of concrete in those areas for the turnouts I was thinking the old atlas surface mounted turnout motors? I'm trying to change over to DCC thoughts.
Several,companies make stAtionary decoders to control the Atlas solenoid type machines but I think it would be cheaper to just use the old fashioned diode matrix approach or momentary pushbutton and CDU.
OK, what is the big disadvantage of using the stock Electrofrog? My first layout in 45 years and this gets more confusing as I research and watch MRR channels. I have 6 turnouts and I don't want to or look forward to doing all that with the chance of screwing up.
Go back and watch the video on turnouts I provided a link to. In it I explain the difference between power routing and all live turnouts and the pros and cons. I think they are videos 76 & 77.
First off the live frog eliminates stalling of locomotives and sound "hic-cups" which is most often seen on short wheelbase locomotives and high frog number switches. Second by powering the closure rails from the corresponding stock rails you eliminate the risk of the loco wheel backsides shorting between the stock rail and open point and finally you eliminate the reliance on the unreliable point to stock rail contact as the power supply to the closure rails.
If you go by the Peco instructions it is simpler than what Larry has demonstrated but even so after doing one or two this becomes a pretty simple improvement that is well worth the effort.
Hello can I use these methods in peco n scale turnouts?
As fat as I know the N and HO scale electrofrogs are pretty much the same. Take a look at this website for even more info:
wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm
Sir, which radius turnouts are recommended for Bachmann Santa Fe 2-10-4 HO scale loco
Hi Thank You for the video...quick questions... Do I have to modify the electro frog with a dremel cut if I just want to use a push rod system for my rail yard and not a controller? And power the electro frog normal as designed on the instructions? Or will that cause a Short during ops session in my rail yard?
Finally which video Number shows your completing the push-rod switch system?
Please advise. I have learned so much but just have some questions?
Thank You Kindly
Yes, you can do that but as I explained in my videos it does make life simpler in the end which is likely why Peco has redesigned their turnouts to the configuration I espouse. As for the video go to my channel home page and click on the videos link then scroll down through the list to find the ones on the Blue Point system,thats what I’d have to do.
Well done! My only question is what do you do with the frog wire if you don't plan to use switch machines? I'd like to use ground throws instead as I will have 3 of these on a long siding and spur.
You have 2 options. If you never plan to use the frog wire you could it off. However if you feel tHat at some time in the future you might lift the turnout and reuse it with frog power then you can just leave it folded up under the frog.
Do the Peco Unifrog Turnouts incorporate the modifications which you make to the Electrofrong turnouts?
I think they basically incorporate everything I showed in the video.
Larry, what is the brand of adhesive you use in this video ? Also, which tube (type) do you recommend ? Thanks, Joel
Liquid Nails for Porjects.
Hi Larry, another question: if I have a set of turnouts facing each other to form a cross over and modify Peco turnouts as you suggest, do I still need to use rail insulators on both rails where the cross overs meet or, must metal joiners be used to provide power to this short section of track between the frogs? Thanks!
That depends on how you have the two parallel tracks wired. If they are wired the same polarity, with for example, positive on the rear rails and negative on the front rail then you can just connect them together as long as you gap the frog as I showed. I use Micro Engineering turnouts for the most part, and they come set up the same way I showed. I just connect them together and power route the frogs for proper polarity and it works fine. I guess it’s about time for a video on that since I am laying track right now on the layout.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry. Yes, both track would be wired the same.
Regarding noise of the switch machines, I can no longer find the original comment.
You were saying "That is one of the biggest complaints I hear about motorized switch machines and snap switch machines. In the end the quietest method is to leave the"
and then the notification text got cut off; guess you-tube only sends a small snippet, but I'd like to know the rest of your thoughts still.
I can’t find it either so I guess the original poster deleted it. At any rate I think I said the quietest method would be to leave the small springs intact and just flip the points with your finger. I operate on a couple layouts who do it that way with their Pecos. Some also use Caboose Industries ground throws. In this case I wanted to go with a manual approach but use something that can change the frog polarity similar to a Tortoise-thus the Blue Point. David Popp used them on one of the MR project railroads and they seemed to be a good solution.
Peco has a new turnout called unifrog. it looks like the changes you make for DCC have been incorporated in this new switch. Is that correct?
Basically that is true. It is as DCC Friendly as you can get. The only difference is the frog rails on theirs are powered via a connection to the closure rails or stock rails whereas I just power them by soldering them to the running rails on the tracks they are connected to. The problem is I still can’t find many in stock as they are phasing them in by different scales and rail code.
Good day Larry P.
I would like to have your support for my request, I am new for the DCC System so, I have equation regarding the wiring diagram of DCC deffernt from DC. Can I use the insulated plastic rail joiners for each additional terminal sections. Like I am using it for making a Freight House Tracks by using the No 4 LADDER SCTION as per the ATLAS BOOK 11 page 47. Because I am going to use the Layout HO-13 (SIMPLE OVAL WITH SPURS), from ATALS HO Layouts FOR EVERY SPACE , Book#11 page #20. Please your advice to me.
Best regards,
AALWABIL
I think you may be overdoing it with insulating joiners-I never use them myself but then I modify my turnouts as shown to avoid polarity issues and shorts. Maybe my next video will help clarify this as well as a future one on laying track and wiring the yard area on these modules. Do you have a copy of my book “Wiring Your Model Railroad”? It covers a lot of these issues and should be available through Amazon books or the Kalmbach books website.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for your support to my request. Have a great day
I use the method from Peco which has always worked fine for me. I still don't understand what you achieved doing it your way other than creating a smaller frog as well as not having to use insulted rail joiners on the two inner rails that exit the frog??? I actually watched the video out of interest to see if there was some advantage to what you were going to do but I did I miss something?
It effectively converts them to their new Unifrog configuration.
@@TheDCCGuy I'm not trying to be difficult but rather trying to learn new things. So what is the difference between a "Unifrog" configuration and the turnout that I modify using the Peco technique? Both frogs are insulated with the only difference I can see is that you've reduced the frog size.
Hi Larry - have you ever had any issue with the Sharpie markers coming through your paint or other scenery materials? I feel like Rons Trains N Things had a video once advising against permanent markers.
Never have had that problem. By the time I add all my layers of glue, dirt, foam, etc. it doesn’t have a chance. Besides, permanent markers are permanent, and anything thing might dissolve them will also dissolve the foam scenery base. I have tried removing Sharpie ink using IPA and once it is dry it doesn’t come off. However it will move if the ink has not completely dried.
I like your videos but how would you hook up the frog to a digital cobalt machine
The iP Digital has a frog connector on it, use it.
Thanks I haven't had a railroad for a number of years and I think I am going to start again but with dcc this time
Hi Larry, Im guessing where you have soldered the wire across the two rails, each of these could be made into dropper wires instead on depending on the rail joiners to provide power from adjoing track?
Yes, you could do that but that requires a lot more soldering. I prefer to use the jumpers and solder my stock rails to their running rails and let that connection provide power to the turnout.
Hi Larry~ I’ve enjoyed all your turnout videos, so thank you for them. I’m building a small shelf layout (18” x 10’), and the Peco Code 75 Electrofrogs are what I’m leaning towards. But because of space, it is their Short (or Small) turnouts that will work best for me, though I might be able to use the Mediums. And I am converting these to DCC as per your video. My question is this. Because of the nature of the Short turnouts, the hinged point rails connect to the closure rails fairly close to the frog; and in order to solder jumpers between the stock rails and the closure rails, I will have to do so above the point hinges as opposed to below, as you did in this video. Will that make a difference? Or do I need to come at this another way. Thanks. ~Brian
The main difference is that the hinge connection can be a bit unreliable if glue or paint get into the joint. If the electrical connection fails try squirting in some lacquer thinner or other organic solvent to dissolve whatever gets in. You also can solder a small piece of flexible wire between the closure rails and point rails but that is tricky to do.
@@TheDCCGuy I asked the above question about a month ago. I appreciate your taking the time to answer. But I'm not sure if I asked my question correctly, or if I just didn't follow your answer. If you have at your disposal a Peco Code 75 (or 100 would work for demo purposes) Short Turnout or Wye, then maybe I can better explain my dilemma. Or if there were a way I could send you a photo, that would work too. Referencing your answer, I believe I can keep the hinge connections clean. My question is this: There is very little space forward of the hinge point to both add jumpers from the stock rails to the closure rails AND gap the frog. These short turnouts are just that: short. There is not the working room you've got with the Medium or Long turnouts. Gapping the frog after the turnout diverges won't be a problem. It is knowing where to place jumpers and gap the frog that I'm unsure of. Am I communicating this better? Thanks. ~Brian
Thanks for the video. some people seem to suggest not to glue down the points, so if they go wrong they can be easily replaced. what do you think?
I have never had any issues prying any track up when using this adhesive if you do not over apply. It usually lifts easily and only leaves a small amount of residue on the bottom of the ties so they could be brushed off and reused if repairable. Of course if you ballast your track you will be gluing them down anyway! The only potential problem I see would be if you used too much adhesive and it squeezed up between the ties and fouled the point rails.
I don't know why it is so hard to just use insulated rail joiners on those frog rails. I've never had any problem with using them. I love my electrofrog turnouts almost as much as I love my walthers turnouts. I never remove the over-center springs of the electrofrog turnouts.
The main reason I isolate the frog rails is because operators inadvertently creep up as close to a frog as they can get when running trains, and as soon as they creep over the gap at the insulated joiner a short occurs. Cutting the frog rails back to the frog itself cures that problem.
What is your opinion about painting rail and turnouts prior to installing?
I have done it both before and after. If you do it before you can take them all out to the driveway and go at it. But you need to clean the railheads before the paint dries really hard or it is a PITA to remove plus it interferes with soldering feeders and rail joiners. If you do it after installation you get a smooth finish over all the track and it covers your rail joiners, and feeders, etc. It also weathers the ties nicely. However you end up with paint all over the layout unless you take special measures. I have gotten to where I put up cardboard behind the tracks to protect the backdrop from overspray, and also spray with one hand and hold a shopvac hose with the other to catch overspray. I can do that since I use acrylic paint-do not do this with any paint having an organic solvent base or dilutant. I don’t even dilute with isopropyl for that. MicroEngineering flextrack can be purchased pre-weathered and is a nice color but I have stopped using it because of the need to scrape it off for soldering.
the new ones they sell that say DCC friendly, do they need this mod as well ?
No, if these are the new Unifrog design they basically incorporate all the mods I showed.
@@TheDCCGuy so in other words the unifrog track are good to go and will plug and play with dcc?
Hey Larry, I really appreciate the in depth videos. The peco electrofrog packaging says no modification needed for DCC layouts but its not very clear. Am I correct in saying if you don't modify the switch its DCC friendly, but it is power routing only and if modified the way you showed, its all live and "more" dcc friendly?
That is correct.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry, I went back and watched it for a 3rd time and it finally clicked and I'm pretty sure you explained it perfectly. I'm new to MR (and any electrical work). Your videos are my go to source. I appreciate your work, have a Merry Christmas.
Larry, thank you for a nice tutorial. What is the dimension of your Dremel cutter disc? Item number?
Those are a Dremel no. 409 cut-off wheel and are about 3/4” diameter. However they get smaller as you use them.
A question for you
Why do you cut the wire joining the stock to the point rail. This wire can be left long so that it can be fed under the layout board to supply either the power or can be used to power a point juicer.
There was no wire joining the stock rail to the point rail, that is the problem. I added jumpers between the stock rails and closure/point rails to provide guaranteed power. Is it possible you mean the wire from the frog? If so I didn’t cut it either, I added the green wire to it and ran it down through the baseboard so I can power the frogs.
@@TheDCCGuy I think Les may mean why not keep each jumper wire you are soldering between point and stock rails as a longer wire to extend through a hole in the subroadbed to serve as a feeder to the respective bus wire.
Ok, as you will see when I attach the track power feeders I usually don’t make those connections to the turnouts. Instead I attach feeders to the flextrack sections and then solder the turnouts to those rails. You only need a feeder about ever 6-8 feet depending on rail code and bus wire gage and as long as the turnouts are physically connected to the running rails they receive power that way.
What would you recommend (for DCC) Larry if you're hand throwing the points on a turnout (ground throw, or other manual method, etc). Thanks.....Very nice video also.
Philip
I would use Frog Juicers to correct frog polarity. They are fast acting and I have never had any issues with them. If you also use PSX power manager/circuit breakers the you will need to adjust their trip speed as they trip faster than the Frog Juicers but that is an easy fix.
@@TheDCCGuy I will check into your suggestions. Thanks.
Thanks Larry. You give great guidance. For my powered dcc electrofrog points I simply install a SPDT toggle switch beside the point switch and connect the frog to the single pole and a positive and negative bus wire to the other two. Once you remember to use the two switches together it works perfect every time. You have a wonderful channel.
How long do you wait for the Liquid Nails for Projects to set before resuming work? Thanks - Great videos and I am learning so much that would normally take lots of experience (and mistakes) to gain.
I usually end up waiting overnight since I wrap things up after applying it. However I think it says on the tube to let it firm up for a couple of hours.
Hi Larry, if you cut the top (T piece) of the pin, you can locate the centre point then lift the point right off, leaving the pin in place. No guess work as to where the pin hole is. Hope that helps?
Good tip!
What size turnouts are you using?
Those are large radius which I think corresponds to #6.
@@TheDCCGuy
I just got my peco switches and flex track to start laying of the yard, I have another question... the peco nickel silver has funny rose hue, not like my ME switches, is this normal with peco?
I have noticed that too and asume it is because they use a little more copper in the metal. Have fun with your project.
I am new to this hobby, I’ve been watching your videos and even bought your book on wiring.I’ve downloaded anyrail 6 the problem is I don’t know what company to go with, seems like every thing is hard to find. I’d like to use peco or micro engineering, can you mix and match track, and I’d like either N or HO scale, any suggestions would be appreciated.thank you
I regularly mix ME and Peco but not usually in the same area. Sometime there are slight differences in thickness of the ties which can require minor adjustments for a perfect fit. So I will usually use all Peco in one area and switch to ME when I get to another town. That way I only have to transition on a couple of rails in between. I do his because on occasion it can be hard to find all the flextrack or turnouts of one type when you need them so I go with what is available. I also can get a better price with ME since I know a dealer.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you happy new year
The polarity of the switch core changes according to the position
Great video Larry perfect timing , I am currently installing these peco electro and insulated frogs on my lay out. . If I wire my layout DCC friendly, will this also be acceptable to run my trains in DC mode ? As I plan to switch it back-and-forth from DCC to DC , with a double pole double throw switch. Thanks
There won’t be any problems. Atlas turnouts have been DCC Friendly since before DCC was invented and all MicroEngineering turnouts come that way as do many other these days.
Thank you Larry for your reply. However I’m working with Peco turnouts, not Atlas. Is there anything I should be aware of when I wire the railroad to operate on DCC and DC? I have a lot of both types of locomotives. Thanks
The main thing is to plan on providing power of the correct polarity to the frogs. Otherwise some locomotives may stall going over the unpowered frogs and if they have sound decoders the sound cutout gets annoying. Atlas sells packs of screws sized to fit the small holes in the frog casting. The best way to install them is on the bottom so they are not readily visible-you can hide the topside with ballast. The best thing to do is install the screw first then solder a feeder to it. If they are nickel clad you may need to sand or file them to get down to bare brass or steel and get a good solder joint. Personally I would hunt for some brass screws that will fit if those Atlas sells are not brass. Avoid zinc as it is difficult to solder but not impossible.
Thank you Larry appreciate your time.
Hi Larry - Great video. Have you looked at Peco Uni-Frog switches? Peco will be replacing the current range of Electrofrog and Insulfrog switches with these and they are set up like the mod you made to your Electrofrog switch. This way they are already compatible with both DC and DCC layouts, and you do not have to use the Dremel on the track.
Great. I just ordered and received 6 Peco Electrofrog switches. :(
@@rvnmedic1968 Unifrogs are not available across the range yet - I think Covid had pushed everything back. Shows that Larry is on the right lines though.
I have seen their specs but not any of the real thing. They do appear to offer a really good design. COVID closures and delays are really getting in the way of this series. Right now I am waiting on wire for the DCC power bus and push rods for the turnout controllers.
I was told that the electrofrog and Insulfrog are being replaced with their new Unifrog concept. They don't have a lot of technical info on it. Can you do a video using the Unifrog turnouts, since this will be the future of their turnouts.
Thanks,
I have not seen one, and only photos of N-scale. My impression is the Covid lockdowns have hampered their production. From what I have seen many Peco products are currently out of stock in hobby shops and back ordered through November. I checked Hatton’s website and they seem to be mainly available in Bullhead track most of which are back ordered, and Walthers is back ordered in the US HO types. I’ll see what I can dig up and share in a future Q&A video.
I was wondering if you might be doing any videos on installing atlas flex track,, code 83? I haven’t Found any good vids on that
It’s no different than installing Peco code 75, or Peco code 83, or MicroEngineering code 83, etc. so I really don’t understand what more information you are looking for. I have used a little Atlas code 83 on the Piedmont Southern but gave up on it after the company in China bailed on them and they couldn’t get track or turnouts out of them for almost 2 years. The main difference is the Atlas turnouts with their aluminum frogs which require using screws to install feeders. Let me know what your questions are.
I was wanting to know if you anticipate doing any videos on the installation of atlas flex track. Or flex track installation in general.
Outside of the turnouts all the track I am using on these modules is Peco flextrack. I’ll be using long sections of Peco flextrack in the yard on the modules and will make sure to be a bit more detailed on installing long runs and curved sections. Once I get ahead of things on these modules I’ll try to work in a video on working with other flextrack. I am planning on using Atlas code 100 flex for one staging yard on the Piedmonth Southern layout and I could kill two birds with one stone doing that.
That sounds great , thanks Larry, looking forward to it.
I’m building a around the walls layout in my spare bedroom.
Why not use a Peco Insulfrog turnout?
I answered this question in an earlier comment, please give it a look.
why not use copper wire ?????
I do use copper wire. The silver looking wires are actually tinned copper, and yes I asked the folks at All Electronics where I purchased it.
In regards to fundamental electrical considerations you aren't doing anything different to what Peco recommends for an all-live turnout. All you are doing is effectively shortening the frog section. As far as I can see the only benefit to this is not having to solder any feeders to the turnout stock rails which is important if you aren't very good at soldering and you ever have to remove and re-locate a turnout. In the end though it seems like a lot of work to avoid a couple of simple solder joints to me.
I've never liked the fine frog power wire on Peco Electrofrogs. As you illustrate it's a pain to accurately locate the hole to feed the wire down and soldering to it is never fun. I simply solder a 22 g wire to the frog section in a location that is not seen from normal viewing angles and feel that it is a more secure and robust feeder. And there is no way it can affect track alignment if the hole is slightly off.
Those switch machines look pretty robust and simple and would be especially useful on a DCC "transition layout" where DCC is one "throttle" on a layout that also runs dc locomotives. There are still a few out there that do this as some modelers have too many locos to convert all at once. For straight dcc layouts, I have had great success with Tam Valley Depot's frog juicers which are essentially bulletproof and require no operator input after installation
Your observations on the Peco are spot on with one exception. I like to be able to solder my frog rails to the running rails they connect to and that requires isolating them from the frog. I really don’t like the appearance of insulating rail joiners and prefer the shorter frog. Other than those, my conversion is essentially what Peco provides the jumpers and solder points for.
I like the idea to cut rails near the frog on the rail joiner side; the extra cut on the point side doesn't seem necessary as you can cut the jumpers provided.
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Question does this also work with peco coode 55 ,n scale
As far as I know Peco N scale turnouts basically are electrically the same as the HO scale, however I have only worked with Atlas N scale turnouts in the past.