That made it very easy for me now. Can you please explain me how to use the micro switch under the solenoid motor for the light switches you mentioned.. Thanking you…
Not easy to decribe here will be doing a video on it in the future. But basically you would use the switch to power the lights making sure you use resistors and rectifiers where necessary
A couple of regrets for me..not using express points and not fitting point motors. Sadly will cause a load of work and issues if I was to do it now. Good work on your latest project
I have one more question what size wires do you recommend i have found a 24awg 2mm on Amazon but im not shore what awg is and if it is important when in use on a point
This is what I use www.rapidonline.com/rapid-gw010435-equipment-wire-red-7-0-2-100m-reel-01-0435 AWG is American Wire Gauge its how they size wire in the USA
This may seem like an odd question but can you just have the three wires ,frog , positive and negative and the switch you use and still make it work but by only switching it from the track manually
Yes you could do it manually. But using a switched point motor or a frog juicer stops accidental shorts, which over time could damage your loco's or power supply.
@@DonegalDadRail I have done the three wires test and it seems to work I think if it shorts out it would just stop working but the locos run over with no problems
It is best to fit isolating fishplates to cut down shorts and if two DC controllers are in use. If two controllers are in use you will need additional wiring. The double slip come with instructions on this. (Peco SL-90 Crossing, Double Slip)
You can get away with 4 droppers on a small oval in each "corner". The great thing when you run a buswire if you get a dead spot you can put in another dropper. Having dropper every couple of feet give good electrical continuity
@@DonegalDadRail brilliant thanks. And where a turnout connects to an inner oval, is that a couple of droppers at the end of the turnout, plus droppers in each corner of the inner oval? Also moving on from turnouts, assuming a simple loop of bus wire, how does one terminate the very end of the bus wires?
Hi Lennon I used both point motors. The PM1 was used on most of my points. On some of my points I used the PM4, as on these points the spring was either broken or missing and the PM4 has a latching mechanism to hold the point blades in position. Both point motors have built in switches to control the polarity on the electrofrogs. Hope this answers your question.
Hi Mark, playing catch up but wanted to say this is a great tutorial video. Thanks for making!
Thank you Mike, glad it was of use to you.
Nice explanation and walkthrough, Mark! Great video!
Thank you Anthony, good luck back at school.
Really useful video - thanks for putting this out here! That's cleared up so many questions I've had :) you're a star
Glad it was helpful! If you are every stuck just ask.
@@DonegalDadRail thanks mate :) much appreciated!
Great Video You Explained It Perfectly Mark
Thank you David
Once again Mark a very well explained and informative video, well done Andy
Thank You Andy.
Very well explained, thank you
Thank you Simon
That made it very easy for me now. Can you please explain me how to use the micro switch under the solenoid motor for the light switches you mentioned.. Thanking you…
Not easy to decribe here will be doing a video on it in the future. But basically you would use the switch to power the lights making sure you use resistors and rectifiers where necessary
A couple of regrets for me..not using express points and not fitting point motors. Sadly will cause a load of work and issues if I was to do it now. Good work on your latest project
Its all part of the learning process with model railways, remember a layout is never finished.
I have one more question what size wires do you recommend i have found a 24awg 2mm on Amazon but im not shore what awg is and if it is important when in use on a point
This is what I use www.rapidonline.com/rapid-gw010435-equipment-wire-red-7-0-2-100m-reel-01-0435 AWG is American Wire Gauge its how they size wire in the USA
@@DonegalDadRail thanck you very much 🤠
This may seem like an odd question but can you just have the three wires ,frog , positive and negative and the switch you use and still make it work but by only switching it from the track manually
Yes you could do it manually. But using a switched point motor or a frog juicer stops accidental shorts, which over time could damage your loco's or power supply.
@@DonegalDadRail I have done the three wires test and it seems to work I think if it shorts out it would just stop working but the locos run over with no problems
Do you need to fit isolating fish plates if using Dc
It is best to fit isolating fishplates to cut down shorts and if two DC controllers are in use. If two controllers are in use you will need additional wiring. The double slip come with instructions on this. (Peco SL-90 Crossing, Double Slip)
Can I ask how many droppers you need from your bus wires on a basic oval like this? (sorry for all the questions!)
You can get away with 4 droppers on a small oval in each "corner". The great thing when you run a buswire if you get a dead spot you can put in another dropper. Having dropper every couple of feet give good electrical continuity
@@DonegalDadRail brilliant thanks. And where a turnout connects to an inner oval, is that a couple of droppers at the end of the turnout, plus droppers in each corner of the inner oval? Also moving on from turnouts, assuming a simple loop of bus wire, how does one terminate the very end of the bus wires?
Have a look at this, see if it answers your questions ruclips.net/video/psWpytRlq5I/видео.html
Hopefully you see this, but which point motor do you use, because I can't figure out if it's the pm1 or pm4. Thank you if you do see this 😊
Hi Lennon I used both point motors. The PM1 was used on most of my points. On some of my points I used the PM4, as on these points the spring was either broken or missing and the PM4 has a latching mechanism to hold the point blades in position. Both point motors have built in switches to control the polarity on the electrofrogs. Hope this answers your question.
@@DonegalDadRail thank you this helps massively.