Head Gasket & Valve Adjustment - FC540V
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- Опубликовано: 20 апр 2019
- Step by Step!
In today's video, I'll be showing you how to replace the Head Gasket & Adjust or "Shim" the Valves on a Kawasaki FC540V engine.
This video is part of an on-going series of videos on a John Deere 325! Check out the other videos here: • John Deere 325
TORQUE SPECS;
Cylinder Head: 24ft/lbs then 38ft/lbs
OHV Cover: 75in/lbs
PART NUMBERS;
Head Gasket: 11004-2096 "Cylinder Head Gasket"
OHV Gasket: 11009-2433 "Rocker Cover Gasket"
Spark Plug: BPR5ES gapped at 0.030"
Sump Gasket: John Deere # M143232 or Kawasaki # 11060-2483
Bottom Oil Seal: John Deere # M124523 or Kawasaki # 92049-2227
#FC540V #JohnDeere325
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This was first I actually enjoyed watching someone perform task in orderly fashion with same pace talking and working.
73 years old and many years with dad as machinest plus construction equipment repair.
AWESOME comes close but really Outstanding and Informative!
Thank You Sir!
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
Just performed the same same repair on my 1996 JD 325 with 1325 hours on her. It is complete and running like it was 24 years ago. Could not have done it without your great videos. You get to the point and very detailed. Thank you!
great video just wanted to know the clearance but video was so well done I had to watch it all thanks
LOL, exactly why I came also! and ended up watching most of it!
nice pace. this guy keeps moving right along, doesnt waste time
Hey thanks for watching John!
Dude, I just have to say that you make an excellent video tutorial. I’ve watched a thousand how-to’s on RUclips for various projects over the years and this is the first one I’ve ever commented on. You did an outstanding job of communicating the “how”, but I appreciated that you included the “why” as well. I learned a lot more than I expected to. Thanks for this video series. It was concise and to the point, without skipping any necessary details. I’ll be putting this to good use on a FC420V this week. Appreciate your help.
Thanks for watching Weston!
P
Just found your video I can't thank you enough , you explained everything perfectly and at a great pace with great tricks👍
Thanks for watching!
Great video and your narration is very well done.
Excellent detailed presentation
Great video! Thanks for all the info!!!!!!
Nice job finishing off the Kawasaki... double thumbs!
Thanks for watching Don, the drive belt replacement vid will be posted, and that will wrap up the series!
I just stopped the video at the compression release explanation, (about 5:20) I had to stop and say thank you because I would have spent the entire day trying to figure out why the exhaust valve was moving when it shouldn’t. My grandparents have one that I’ve already torn apart and now like usual a year later I’m going back to put together. Thanks!!!
Anytime, thanks for watching!
Good job Jake, like always!
Thanks for watching!
Nicely explanatory video regarding a Kawasaki Engine, VERY similar to a B&S, without the 1/4" past TDC!
Thank you for sharing!
Take care,
🤓-Thomas
Thanks for watching Thomas!
Excellent explanation of the process
Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU ! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge .
Thanks for watching!
very nice and I like the way you tell us about the tools you use.
Thanks for watching Dennis!
Enjoyed the video very informative and what a great idea for that table you used very smart
Yes, the table with a hole in it makes working on these Engines super simple! Wheels also make moving it around simple.
Pull up a chair and get right to it!
Thanks for watching Hunter!
Thank you for taking the time end explain
End sharing very helpful
Thanks again
Nice! Exactly what I was looking for! Thankyou
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video!!!!! Thanks!!!
Thanks for watching Bruce!
Good info enjoy video very helpful
THANKS, Good video
THANK YOU MUCH !!!!!!!!
I have one that for some weird unknown reason popped its spark plug out. I never had it in cross threaded and it ran seemingly fine for at least a couple years since the plug was changed. I am ALWAYS careful to thread bolts and plugs in by hand and make sure to feel for it beginning to cross-thread and not go in right. I only like to put a wrench or socket on them once I am sure that they are properly inserted and started. I hope all it needs is a new head or even just a thread repair. Either way it will be hundreds of times more reliable than that 27 HP Kohler Courage engine on my Cub Cadet GT 1554 which is in the woods slowly rotting away. I have never seen such a worthless pile of junk in my life as that Cub Cadet!! It never made it to 500 hours!! Now on the other hand, John Deere with their Kawasaki engines should prove to be vastly more reliable. I also like that the John Deere doesn't have that "quick change" oil filter. My Cub Cadet did not have it either and I despise those marketing gimmicks to no end!! What the Cub Cadet had that I never saw before was some sort of long roller on the back of the mower deck. I guess it is a striping roller? Towards the end of the Cub Cadet's useful life that roller started coming undone and next thing I know I have that metal bar under my back tire and a tractor that can't go because of it. I was honestly thinking why did they have to put that idiotic thing on there!! It was becoming obvious to me why that was the only tractor I have ever seen with that. I guess everyone else knew it was a horrible design that would infuriate people like me!!
This was a tight tutorial - EXCELLENT piece... too bad I’m still too big of a pansy to undertake that project on my Kawi myself.... thanks!
Thanks for watching, and good luck if you do!
Might consider cleaning the grass clippings and oil off the head before the re-installation. Got very poor cooling with that much sludge in the head and cover shrouds ...
I’d love to see a video of a valve adjustment on a Kawasaki FD series engine. Is it much different than the FC series video you show here? This is great work.
You need an hand impact screw remover. Too much speed there. A driver with spanner wrench flats are miracles sometimes too. Perfect phillips bit size sorely needed. Not too hard with the pounding, just an orange dead blow. Brilliant changing to regular hex bolts!
Good video. TDC should be when the piston is all the way up? It looked like it was marked when the piston was down a bit, flush with the head.. A plastic straw could also be used to check piston TDC.
Do you know how to remove the transmission pulley right on top of the trans? And could you do a pulley swap?
Great video. Have you adjusted the high speed?
Good day Good video. When you put oil filter on , you said you are going pre-soak it. I have 20 hp B&S, should I be doing that too. Thanks for now
Yes, measure out how much oil your Engine is supposed to take (with an oil filter) and then whatever you put in the oil filter, subtract that from the total amount.
Once you fill the filter about 3/4 full, wait a few minutes and the paper filter should soak up the oil.
Watch this video where I show you how to do this: ruclips.net/video/jbxO0RZclKQ/видео.html
Was that an impact hammer you used to vibrate those seized screws free? What was that vibration tip you used? Seems like a valuable technique to keep in mind. Tell us more.
You need a "ribbed" phillips head bit if you don't already have one. It should prevent you from stripping out the screw heads
Excellent video but not understanding if lifter is on lobe side of cam wouldnt valve be fully opened?
You're absolutely correct, I believe I was thinking of bottom dead center with the valve open. Not sure how I didn't catch that in editing lol I should've shown a diagram of the crankshaft rotated to top dead center, and not the cam lobe. I've addressed this by removing that segment of the video. Apologies for the mishap, and as always, thanks for watching!
Do have a link for the pad you used
Great video, Can valves be adjusted without removing plug? Working on a FC40v could not find any clearance on either valve. Adjusted valve for proper clearance, motor idles and runs great at full throttle. Now motor takes a while to start. What happened? Please Reply.
If the tolerance is too tight, your valves will be partially open when cranking over the engine. So it could be taking a while to start because you need to make an adjustment. Ideally you want to remove the spark plug, so you can turn the engine over by hand to get it to TDC on the compression stroke
Without removing the plug the flywheels very hard to turn by hand do to compression
Did the head gasket let go? I have same engine but no compression.. I am not sure if it’s the head gasket or piston and rings
Hey man I have a question hopefully you can help me out, I have a John Deere with the same engine, but my rocker cover is plastic, the dealer gave me the same gasket you have there for the rocker cover but it won't work with my plastic rocker cover unfortunately. Is there a different gasket for my plastic cover or do I have to buy an aluminum one like in the video for it to work? Thanks!
I'm honestly not too sure, I know some kohler's use different gasket seals depending on if it's metal or plastic, but when you search the part it just says there's 1 gasket.
My best advice would be to get your engines code, then enter it into ereplacementparts.com and then you can be sure you're looking at the right diagram.
So example would be an "FC540V-GS03" so run your numbers and double check.
@@EliminatorPerformance awesome man will do thank you for the help!
G R E A T video series. I just found this searching for information on a HARD to start fc504v. Could you tell me how to check the compression on this engine? With a compression release built-in, I don't understand how to get a correct compression reading. When I check it as I would on other engines, I only read 27 psi.
Yes so you have to do a leak down test with a leak down tester, I have a video on how to do that. ruclips.net/video/X0co8LvdqqE/видео.html
@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks VERY much. I will get a tester and do that today.
Hey anyone know y i cant find a rebuild kit for FC 540V Kawasaki?
Where do you buy your abrasive scotchbrite type pads?
Smith Industrial is an industrial supply place, but you could get them at a napa or auto parts store
Hello. I have a question why the kawasaki 17 km engine has no battery charging. where to look for the reason
Magneto (underneath the flywheel) or voltage regulator box (on side of engine)
👌👌👌👌👌
Great job on the video as always. Question for you. I noticed the exhaust valve was quite white in coloration compared to the intake valve (at the flared end closest to the block) Is this white coloration normal? I assume it is due to the difference in temperature between the intake and exhaust. Just curious on your thoughts.
Most likely due to the engine running slightly lean (less fuel more air) so it was running hotter.
Could have also been due to the wrong plug installed, I installed the correct BPR5ES plug before returning to the customer!
Jis screwdriver for them screws.
Hi, does the exhaust valve have the steam seal?
The intake valve usually has the rubber stem seal, but sometimes the exhaust valves have them too
@@EliminatorPerformance Do they have any problem if the exhaust valve doesn't have a stem seal. Because my one doesn't have it. I don't know if they took it out or it doesn't have it.
I have the 18-Hp Kawasaki and recently blew the cylinder head gasket twice on same cylinder, same spot. Is the cylinder gasket directional and what are the causes for this to happen?
That's a great question, I'm not sure of an exact answer, but on the single cylinder it can only go one way. On a dual cylinder, I suppose you could mix them up and flip them. As shown here, the "bump side" went towards the head, with the "groove side" towards the engine. This engine is still running strong to this day, just serviced it this summer!
After checking my spare parts, the extra gasket does NOT appear to be directional. It is the same thickness on both sides.
I will keep checking for the causes. You particular video on this engine is great !!!
Thank you.
@@jamesmacci527did you figure it out
@@joshuawray5917 no. I just replaced the head with a used one from eBay. Seems to be working now. But I also retimed the rocker arms and found a lot of play in the action. I think this contributed to the problem
When I gap mine (FC540V)with the flywheel at center the .004 and .005 gap feels fine but if you spin the flywheel and allow one or the other to tighten up the gap is Much larger on the side without pressure ? I was told not to center it ,to simply spin the flywheel until I feel max pressure on one side then gap the loose side and then do the same for the other, is this wrong ? ? When I do it this way the gap numbers stay the same .004 and .005 ?? I wish you would of re- checked your gap after turning the flywheel with pressure on them so I know if I'm doing this correctly
You can do it that way, but I always recommend top dead center on compression stroke. This engine is still running strong to this day, have only done air filters and oil changes since this valve adjustment.
@@EliminatorPerformance Ok great thanks for getting back to me, would you say its normal then for the gap to read correctly at TDC but after turning the flywheel it changes the readings but doesnt matter ? Id say its at like .009 or more when not at center but at center its spot on ? I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly I'm a carpenter with a lil knowledge mechanically but definitely not a master mechanic ?
@@ConditionZero76 here's the link to the service manual (it will download a PDF file you can read on cell phone or computer. Page 42 says to bring the piston to top dead center on compression stroke and then make adjustments when the engine is cold. Hope this helps; www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FC290V-FC400V-FC401V-FC420V-FC540V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjRkeOarbj6AhUxmIkEHbwPDf8QFnoECBQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2tA2uzZ_9CPWYcMx9Q8zMq
@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks so much Bro I appreciate your help ....
Just waiting on valve lash #
I'm having trouble finding a carborator for this engine
Go to eReplacementparts.com and type in your engine model number
Hello. What are the symptoms of burning this gasket? sorry for my English😉
I have a problem and I do not know where to look for a solution. sometimes you hear uneven work like a blow, exchanged candles and oil, fuel and filters and nothing
You may need your valves shimmed, I'd say the symptoms are burning oil, a loud metallic noise like a clacking.
Head gasket could also show signs of an oil leak...
Without seeing it, it's hard to say!
Thank you very much for your answer. there are no such films in Poland regarding kawasaki fc 540v. maybe it's actually a valve.👌👍
ruclips.net/video/H4BaOgWg8-Q/видео.html
then he walked as it should.
the metallic sound only has a bigger load
Clean off the dirt before you start the job. Dirt is falling all over your nice work.