Kawasaki FR691V Head Gasket Replacement (FR, FS & FX Engines)
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- Опубликовано: 21 май 2023
- How to replace a Kawasaki Head Gasket on a Gravely Zero-turn mower. This video is a learning experience for all of us, I had a lot of fun screwing up but I got it figured out in the end. All tools and parts available below.
Torque Wrench 3/8: amzn.to/43k1k4T
Torque Wrench 1/4: amzn.to/3Iy3ohx
Gasket Set (Amazon, buy head gaskets from Kawasaki): amzn.to/43potmj
Engine Assembly Lube (Royal Purple): amzn.to/3MDoSeu
OEM Headgasket (Check Part Numbers First): amzn.to/45tCp0M
Mower Mike’s Tool Store: www.amazon.com/shop/mowermike
Kawasaki Engine Videos: • Kawasaki Engine Repair...
Mower Mike
Disclosure: The Amazon link above is an Amazon affiliate links. This means that, I do earn a very small commission (at no cost to you) if you click the link and finalize a purchase. 
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I needed a top-end on a Kawasaki FR730v. I watched this video plus Mikes videos for cleaning the head, lapping the valves, valve lash adjustment. These videos were all I needed. Listen to the suggestions and definitely buy Genuine Kawasaki Head Gaskets. Thanks for the videos, I finished up today and cut 4 acres, no issues.
That makes my day, I appreciate the comment. I put these videos together how I would want to see them. 4 acres is some serious mowing!
By far, the best video I've seen explaining all I need to know about replacing a bent push rod,and believe me, I've watched a lot. Of them. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help and thanks for the compliment
good camera work. The close up on where push rod fits into that little holding cup was really helpful. Shop wanted $900.00 to replace one head.
Wow that is crazy. Thanks I try and shoot what I would want to see if I was in your spot
Appreciate the time and effort into these viddys 👌
Sure thing, this one was the hardest one yet. Lots of mess ups haha
I just did a 25hp Briggs for a guy on Troy Built zero turn it had a blown head gasket on gas tank side so instead of just doing the one head I did both I was able to leave the muffler on and removed both heads with it attached put my new head gaskets on put heads and muffler right back on and torqued everything down and was good to go the guy was tickled to death.
What were the symptoms that lead you to replace the head gasket?
When I started the motor you could hear a popping sound of air coming from the cylinder head luckily the gasket blew to the outside not to the inside of motor. The farther and son had put new coil packs on cylinder thinking that what it was, if gaskets blown you won’t have any power put mower in gear and kills the motor.
Ps plus do a compression test that cylinder had zero pressure the other cylinder had 65psi all these newer motors gave a compression release for easier starting so the pressure usually around 65 or 70 psi until it starts.
Im working on the exact same mower for my girlfriend's dad and it is doing the exact same thing. Smoking like crazy. You made this look easy other than realizing it has 5 head bolts. Lol. Thanks for making this video. Definitely helps me out a lot and confirms exactly what I thought the problem is with this one. Liked and subscribed.
Good luck! My issue was actually the piston rings. I have another video on the rings. If you really want to dive in do the piston rings while you are at it. Good luck is a great motor
@MowerMike I actually just found the whole problem it was smoking. He was putting too much oil in it. He must have been screwing the dipstick in when checking the oil. It plainly says on the dipstick to not do that. I drained some oil to the correct level. No more smoke. Definitely didn't think it would be that easy. Still need to adjust the vales tho. Thanks again.
@@hopskustomaudio Haha I run into that all the time. Better find that out now vs after tearing apart the engine.
Nicely done. Tomorrow i get to install new heads on (basically) this same engine. This video has all the torque specs i was looking for 👌 That's a rad little tip about the head gasket having that slot to hold the intake gasket, also explains the odd shape of the outside of the intake gasket.
The engine im working on is a Kawasaki FS481V , runs on propane, spends it's life spinning a hydraulic pump. Puts in 40 hours a week sometimes. The valves are so slammed that they can no longer be adjusted to spec. It so freakin hard to get running in the morning. So, new heads.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Wish I could see what those heads look like. If she is running that many hours you may as well put in new piston rings while you are at it. I have a whole series of videos on this engine.
Good luck!
@@MowerMikei wish i could put a picture of them on here. Both valves on both heads were SO sunken into the seats.Never seen a valve guides so lose either. Idk how it ran! The cylinders surprisingly looked good! Runs great now! Thanks again!
I appreciate the honest video as I have a Cub Cadet ZT1 50 with a Kawasaki FR691V engine giving me fits. After warming up it starts sputtering and RPMs drop to the point of having to engage the choke to keep it running. I may have to rebuild as you did. For the haters its easy to arm chair criticize someone but where are your videos showing how to do it? Thanks again Sir
I appreciate that. Everyone has critics right lol
Just a suggestion for anyone wanting to save a few steps. The Lisle Shaft Seal puller #58430 will save you a TON of time.
Very cool I didn’t know there was a tool for that thanks
Excellent video! We have a Scag with the Kaw FR600V. Weak horsepower, oil on my left spark plug, so I'm hoping it's just the head gasket. The Scag Liberty Z has an annoying rear bumper/guard across the back that you can't just unbolt - it's welded to the frame! It'll make access to the engine way harder than your Gravely. Not lookin' forward to that. Anywayz... great vid! Thank You!! 👍
Ya that sucks when those bumpers are in the way. If you are pulling the engine to do head gaskets you should consider doing the rings and rest of the gaskets at the same time. The rings are supposed to be replaced at 600 hours. I have videos on all of it. Good luck!
@@MowerMike Found it: ruclips.net/video/kYNsDVJbN-c/видео.html
wow I am surprised at the crazy comments at least give the guy some credit I been trying to fix my mower and found this video it sounds something that I will do trying to figure it out and run back to you tube for any pointers on which I know a lot of us had done it one way or another.
Haha the comment section is full contact. People take my dumb videos serious lol. Hope it helps
I'm wich-chu bro, love them HF color coded sockets FTW! Great job.
Right, next step is to get those magnetic socket holders. Is life changing lol
The cleaning job was impressive though.
Glad you came around lol
Hey mike i have this same engine.
I ran it for 5 seconds and stopped then smoke started coming from the top of the engine that was white . Earlier I noticed smoke in the oil dipstick tube.
Would this be a carb problem or head gasket problem
If it is white smoke it is a head gasket or piston rings. If it is black smoke it is fuel related
Hey Great Videos-- I actually have checked out all of them in this series. My Engine (same as yours) has 754 hours
I have #1 Cylinder that is only giving me 50PSI and Leaking Down fast.(a bit of OIL-No help) I adjusted the valves to .005 and the #2 is at 120 PSI.
Does this Engine not have the Compression Release ? would it make any Diff ? I will be Pulling the HEADS off Next weekend and checking the Gasket then Valves ect.
If I find nothing I think I will be going down the Ring Road like you....any Tips or Thoughts would be great.
All I know is 50psi is way too low. Either a valve isn’t shutting or it is just worn out. My bet is it will need new rings and a full going through. That is alotttt of hours. Good luck
I just did a while on repair on my gaskets, but I’m still getting white/bluish smoke once Engine heats up. Oil level is below full
Probably worn out piston rings. I had the same thing. Will be dropping a piston ring video in a couple of weeks. Sucks I know
Got this happening on my Kawasaki fr600V motor. Planning to do full piston rings, head gasket etc.
I would recommend if you pull the heads to do a complete disassembly and replace the valve seals. I personally sand blast the entire heads and valves so they look brand new with no carbon anywhere
That is a good idea, sand blasting would have made this much easier
@@MowerMike it also removes gasket material really good
Replace valve stem seals
Got a question for you… a while back you did a carburetor replacement on a gt1054 cub cadet. You used a china carb was there any signs of it running lean I see some of those carbs have the wrong tube sizes. And people have to use the OEM carb parts
Yep the Kohler Chinese carbs tend to run lean. What you can do is take the Chinese carb and put the stock jet out of the original one if you have it. I just run the Chinese one though, the engine smooths out once it warms up and the blades are engaged.
@@MowerMikethanks for the info
Hey my man, it was my first time doing the job too but I got everything back together the motor started but it was running rough I was scared to idle all the way up. What do you think I did wrong?
Got me. I would check for intake leaks with some carb spray around the intake and re check the valve lash. Or maybe you don’t have one of the spark plug boots on good and it is firing on one cylinder
So come to find out I didn’t tighten the adjustment screw back so when I opened it back up it nuts were off the screws. Once I got everything back together it still was smoking now I need to replace the piston rings
I hope you can take this a positive feed back. I know how hard it is to make these videos.
I expect most people who watch your videos aren’t after entertainment, like me they want to fix their mower.
You got the smoke colours the wrong way around.
Contrary to what logic would suggest oil burns with grey or white smoke and to rich a mixture burns with black smoke.
Also the Business card is way to thick to set the valve clearance.
That trick is often used to set the distance from the magneto to the fly wheel or even the spark plug gap.
For valve clearance feeler gauges are as essential as the correct size socket 🤠
Man you skipped the parts I wanted to see. I forgave you for skipping how it came apart in the beginning but then you skipped putting the intake manifold and associated parts back on as well. You also didn’t actually show us how you diagnosed that it is a head gasket problem and not something else more serious as many things can allow oil into the combustion chamber.
Oh well 10 points for trying 🤠
Was it actually blowing a significant amount of smoke?
I appreciate the feedback. It was burning about a quart of oil an hour. Check out my carb cleaning video if you need to see a carb install on that same engine.
You are correct.
I don't need the front porch rocking chair entertainment.
He'll get better, if he is serious.
@@mrbrown6421 Oh I doubt that. You fellas need to move on and watch a real mechanic on the RUclips.
@@MowerMikeWe have, sir, we have.
Keep up the good work.
Sorry your half a dam moron and need someone to hold your hand. I used this video and redid my head gaskets just fine.
Where can i get the engine repair manual for this kawasaki engine
Just Google the engine number. I got mine on EBay, is a really good manual. Just make sure to get the service manual and not the owners manual. Good luck
Google Kawasaki fx691v PDF manual. Can get the full service manual for free.
I got mine from eBay
Could you post a link the official manual you used?
Just search for it on eBay.
I could not find a service manual either-(Edited) NM It came right up this time in the Search a Printed Service Repair Manual@@MowerMike
I'm not a Kawasaki owner, I went B&S(who have their own issues), but only 400 hours and a blown head gasket ? Is this a common issue at a mere 400 hours?
400 is a lot for a small engine. I plan on doing a Briggs head gasket video at some point. Good luck !
Nesesito ayuda con una máquina
Don’t we all
It’s called the exhaust stroke! 4 strokes, intake, compression, power, exhaust.
Thanks Cooter.
Correction: The technical terminology is "Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow." You're welcome.
Just a heads up, if you have a Kawasaki FR600V the head bolts are only 20 ft. Lbs. of torque. Just learned the hard way by snapping one 😢.
Damn that sucks. Have been there, good luck snaking it out
@@MowerMike I managed to get them out with reverse drill bits! Just waiting on new bolts
@@MowerMike what has me confused is I did the other side to 20 ft lbs and snapped another one. Not sure if these are 1 time head bolts? Or if maybe my torque wrench sucks. 20 ft lbs is on the lower end of the scale on my click type
@@gregorytolson1648 The bolt or threads may have been messed up. 20lbs shouldn’t snap a head bolt
@@MowerMike I ended up ordering 10 new bolts and got a 3/8 drive torque wrench, gives a more authoritive click at 20 ft lbs. Got the engine back in the cradle of my cub cadet. Just the heads left to go. I’ll let you know how it goes!
Exhaust nuts are actually 12 mm
You got it backwards. Black smoke is fuel Gray smoke is oil. If you don't want any smoke from oil use synthetic it doesn't smoke.
Ahhh thanks lol I am an amateur got it backasswards. I have tried all the oil type my latest bet is it is the piston rings. Stay tuned am sure I will do some more stuff wrong with this engine coming up
@@MowerMike There's a updated cover for the breather on that. It's a rectangular plate half under your flywheel. This failed plate/gasket will cause oil consumption and smoke and crankcase pressure.
Partner, watching this video and not double checking your work almost cost me a lot of money. I know it’s my fault for just trusting you and not double checking for myself. But at least for the FS600 according to Kawasaki the head torque specs are just a smidge over 20 ftlbs. So saying it’s the same for all “F” engines may not be wise.
Glad ya checked. I start rambling on these videos so always double check any serious info. Haha
Let's be clear: "YOUR" work almost cost you a lot of money.
@@jcb355 yeah, it did. That’s why you double check your own work, and the source. I quite literally said it was my own fault. Thanks for telling me something I already know and admitted. Put down the diet cola, wipe the Doritos dust off your glasses from your grubby fingers and actually read, keyboard warrior.
She was still smoking at the end, also the little spacer goes under the fan screen.
Yes she was lol good eye. The head gasket was not the problem. Keep watching I am not giving up yet on the Kawasaki, have more videos coming on her.
@@MowerMike 10-4, where in Texas are you? I'm in Austin. I've had my share of problems with zero turns and kawasaki motors.
Good catch.
@@morejelloplease I am out around Fort Worth
Wow purple lol. I guess that is a compliment
12:56 “something’s kinda hanging on” maybe try to remove ALL the bolts
I need you as my producer brother!!!!
The manual says the valve clearance is .0020”-.0039”. Says to use a .002” feeler gauge.
You've missed a fricken head bolt.
She works great, left it out on purpose to help the cooling of the head.
They let people that don't even no what certain things are called and he's watching online videos what kind of professional mechanic is he I'm not one but dam I'm better off alone he even says you don't want to rely on these videos lmao this has to be a joke just to be funny even he keeps laughing wth is up here
Totally agree. I can’t believe they let just anyone load videos on here. Just doing it for the giggles and winging it.
he even said he is not professional but the point is that anyone can do it I give him a lot of credit for the effort
@@michaelnieves3550 Thanks Mike! Is all about effort
You skipped putting the exhaust back on..why? Too many cuss words?
Haha right. Those exhaust bolts are a PIA. Had already broken off one stud I had to redrill. Was just tired of shooting crap
This is very painful to watch, For the life of me I can't understand why You Removed One rocker arm And push Rod And not the other during disassembly lol.
That makes two of us!
Because you only have to remove one rocker arm to get at all the head bolt. Plus on the Kawasaki you can use the rocker bracket to help push down the valve spring to remove the keepers
@wilkey40 Ultimately you still have to remove that bottom rocker and it just makes it easier for dissassembly to do so while you're doing the first one,
@@Avidfisher777 for me I prefer to get disassembly done as quickly as possible and then work on individual parts. On the Kawasakis like the 651 I never remove the exhaust side bracket that little cast aluminum nipple that keeps that bracket in place is too fragile and breaks easily so I work around it