How to Apply Polycrylic with a Nylon Booty
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
- Bethany from Madeline Jean Antiques & Restoration shows you how easy it is to apply polycrylic with a foam brush and a nylon booty.
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www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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I’ve started using Minwax Polycrylic to varnish/topcoat my art canvases. I spray the canvas with distilled water then apply the product using a foam brush. Definitely going to try the pantyhose cover over the foam … sometimes the foam brushes have bits & flecks that transfer to the canvas. I find Polycrylic superior to actual “art” varnish.
Best of luck! I'd love to know how it works out for you. The Polycrylic comes in an aerosol spray as well.
I know you said you had a lot of views on how to use polycrylic finish, but I'm here to say you should do EVEN MORE videos, as you are a very good teacher and show all the important tips. Good luck in the future.
THANK YOU!!!! That's very kind of you to say! I appreciate you leaving such a supportive comment.
Painting my kitchen cabinets I used your method to apply the two primer coats, two coats of hi-gloss latex, and two coats of polycrylic. Of course, I sanded between each coat.
To save me time and money over the two week period, I put each 6" roller as well as each foam covered booty into a separate one-quart zip lock baggie. It saved me a lot of time not having to clean the rollers, as well as time and money not having to go and shop for replacement foam brushes and rollers. Hint: remember to squeeze out the air from the baggies so the paints won't dry out on the rollers and brushes.
I also put a small amount of primer and paint in separate square 2" deep plastic covered containers. That saved a lot of time since I could pick up everything with a minimum amount of effort to fit in working on the project when I had a spare minute.
I have used polycrylic in the past and bubbles are the biggest pain ever. However, this method was the bomb! The project came out beautiful and I can't thank you enough for sharing this method.
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE THIS COMMENT! I'm so glad this method helped you! Thank you also for your helpful hints!
Thank you so much! I have to start all over due to unforeseen circumstances. I want to recycle furniture so I can have my own style so I’ve been binge watching videos and your are the best! Thank you so much!
You are so welcome! I love reading comments like yours. Recyling and upcylcing furniture is so much fun! You'll get addicted for sure!
Excellent video; I just know I would have screwed up my upcoming job had I not seen this. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Thank you James! I'm so glad you learned something from it. Best of luck with your upcoming project!
Thank you! I'm polycoating some gun furniture, this should help me.
Best of luck to you!
I was told years ago to use panty hose to apply tung oil to my dining room furniture and it was by far the easiest method I ever tried. It has a finish that has worn so well for over 30 years. I have no problems with water marks, paint from projects, Fingernail polish and remover. I am anxious to try the bootie socks with a white hutch I just painted knowing that I couldn't use tung oil (yellowing) and wondered if it work. Nice to know I wasn't crazy!
Vicky Longcrier Nope not crazy at all!!! This nylon booty method really does work. I’ve heard of people taking a sock putting it over their hand and then putting the nylon over the sock and applying a topcoat with their hand I have not personally tried that method I’ve only tried the method that is shown in this video.
Nice job and good info to try. Thanks.
R Pierce I’m glad you found the video helpful. 😁
Just found your channel and it’s so helpful! A new subscriber. I have had poly yellow so I’m scared to use it
Jeni Douthit I’m so glad you found my channel and finding my videos helpful! I did another tutorial not too long ago and it’s titled Polycrylic and Yellowing. Watch that one it’ll explain why it may yellow and how to prevent it. A lot of people interchange the word poly with Polycrylic. Those are two different products. Poly is usually oil based. Polycrylic is waterbased.
Thank you for the tips. I was getting major streaks. You're going to look like Joan Allen (Allie's mother in the Notebook) when you get older. Love her!
Love that! Yeah we both have those high cheekbones.
Thank you for your excellent videos on Polycrylic on your channel. I am about to start a project to finish an office desk built using an unfinished birch butcher block counter-top. I would like to retain the same natural finish. Would you recommend using Polycrylic, and if so what sheen would you recommend for the most natural look? Thanks in advance.
Your videos are fantastic! Do you like the polycrylic spray? When would you recommend that? I want to chalk paint my dressers black then go over with white and distress the edges. Definitely going to use the poly after your advice to prevent yellowing! Thank you for your hard work!
coopaloop727272 Thank you so much for finding my videos helpful. I do like the Polycrylic spray when refinishing chairs. Chairs are soooo time consuming so I find the Polycrylic spray great in that regard. I have sprayed a dresser before but know the Polycrylic spray can spit at times as you are spraying. That’s the one big con to the product. You just need to keep a synthetic brush near by to quickly wipe away the spit mark. I prefer to brush on Polycrylic in a matte finish. If you are applying Polycrylic over a lack painted piece add a few drops of black paint to the Polycrylic otherwise it can be milky looking over black paint. I wish you the best with your project.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Thank you for replying so quickly! 2 more quick questions if you don't mind. I want to repaint 2 pine dressers that have a orange kind of stain. Should I seal them with a primer before painting to prevent bleed through, or just sand them down and go for it? Also, what paint would you recommend for painting dressers? The chalk paint looks easy, however I would like something durable that I can distress the edges to have the black pop with the rest being white.
coopaloop727272 If it was me I’d sand the orange finish off, apply a coat of Shellac and then apply a coat of primer then paint. If you are on a time crunch then I would prime it and then paint it. I like to sand off that orabge finish you are talking about because I’ve noticed some of that old finish has drip marks and that’ll just show through if you paint over it. I’m a perfectionist though.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Thank you for the advice! I did a little practice project with an antique nightstand. Stripped the top, stained grey and white washed it. Looks great! As for the legs I tried the zinzer 123 sealer and primer. Then painted over it with Sherwin williams white. Topcoated as well with a spray on poly. Really happy with the results! Looks like I have a new passion. Diy_turtleguy86 if you want to see how it turned out. Cheers!
coopaloop727272 I’m so glad to hear that everything worked out well for you! That’s awesome! I’m going to go check your IG out.
Love your tutorials!! You are the best I have watched thus far. For my kitchen cabinets that I painted Annie Sloan OLD WHITE what would you recommend polycrylic matte or satin. I originally bought general finishes high performance top coat only to find out it could yellow my cabinets after watching several other tutorials. Should have done more research before I bought it. I am sending my husband to get me the polycrylic and wondering which you would recommend for my cabinets. The Annie Sloan retailer swears by the wax and had me buy another jar. ERRRRRR!!!! I have done my bathroom vanities with the wax but they do not get anywhere near as much usage as my kitchen cabinets. Did them a number if years back and they are holding up really well. I am on a budget so hoping these cabinets hold up for a while!! Thank you for any help you can provide. Lisa
Lisa Croce Hi Lisa! Okay so regarding Polycrylic matte vs. satin their matte still has a sheen to it. I recently did a tutorial comparing Polycrylic matte versus Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish (also water based) and I show them side by side and you can see the difference. Just something to consider any topcoat you put on with a matte finish provides the least protection. How do I get around that? I’ll put a glossy Polycrylic sheen on FIRST and then follow with their satin or matte finish. Many people do this if they want their finish to be matte but want a super durable topcoat. Apply glossy FIRST and then apply the matte on your second/third coat. I hope I’m making sense.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 I just watched your tutorial on matte vs satin but I didn't see you use a Satin. It was just you comparing the 2 different brands of Matte. The Minwax Matte surprisingly had a sheen to it which I liked. Not too much but just enough. I usually steer away from any matte finishes because they are not as durable. I do not want super shiny cabinets. I like the sheen of the minwax polycrylic matte in the video. So are you suggesting using a a semi gloss or gloss as the first coat and then satin to achieve that sheen? I am so confused!!!!
Lisa Croce Oh sorry for the confusion. I was just illustrating in that video if you are into matte finishes Minwax’s matte finish truly isn’t matte it still has a sheen. Okay now that I know you like a little sheen that finish (Minwax Matte) might be the one for you. Since you are doing kitchen cabinets I would advise applying the glossy sheen first because it does provide better protection than the matte. So one coat of the glossy then two coats of the matte.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 OMG!!! I am so confused. My poor husband has bought me more top coats on top of all the wax I bought. I am so nervous about yellowing. I hadn't heard back from you so I spoke with someone at minwax and he said that the polycrylic in all the finishes are just as durable. Only the sheen is different. I am going to pull my hair out!! lol Now I just started to look up what is the difference between Polycrylic and Annie Sloans Lacquer. Of course the Annie Sloans Dealers all swear by her wax and lacquer. Now I just read a bunch of articles about Polyvine Wax Finish Varnish Dead Flat and people are swearing by it. Gives the look of wax but is super easy to work with and has amazing durability. Have you ever tried it?? I am leaning towards the Minwax which my husband bought me in the Matte but am very intrigued but this Polyvine product. Thoughts? Have you ever used it?
Lisa Croce Here’s the deal with yellowing. Yellowing mostly happens when you put on an oil based topcoat over a water based paint so that’s why everyone will steer you to put on a water-based topcoat like Polycrylic over water based paint because that reduces the chances of it yellowing. Now can you still get yellowing when you put on a water-based topcoat over water base paint...you can BUT BUT BUT the reason being is not because of the water-based topcoat it’s because of the TANNINS in the wood being pulled to the surface because you didn’t block the tannings. So the million dollar question for you regarding your kitchen cabinets did you sand them? And did you prime them before you painted them gray? If you didn’t prime then the water based topcoat (I’m talking any brand of water based topcoats could yellow or they may not. It’s a 50/50 chance of it happening). I don’t mess with those odds ever and I always prime or shellac to block the tannins before I paint. Then my odds go up to 99% of no yellowing happening or having bleed thru. Now the safest way around this if you didn’t prime your cabinets before you started painting them you could use wax as a topcoat, you sure can. Would I use wax as a topcoat on kitchen cabinets? No way. It’s not durable enough, I can guarantee your paint will chip over time and wax usually needs reapplication after 6 months to a year. I’m sorry you have been getting conflicting information and are confused. When it comes to kitchen cabinets I can’t stress this enough it’s truly about how you prep the wood more than any type of paint or topcoat that you use to guarantee proper adhesion of the paint and the topcoat. I personally get fired up because a lot of these big chalk paint companies sell people on this notion that you don’t need to prep a wood surface, that you can just paint and then you can just slap on some wax and you’re good to go and honestly it’s not true at all. Proper restoration takes patience and doing it right. It’s not about speed and ease.
Hello. I made mistakes on a door side. I'm looking forward to adding the nylon, which may work over a brush too? Curious if you found cooler or warmer temperatures influencing bubbles or streaks.
Thank you for being persistent in working this out.
kchansenak Hi there! I work strictly indoors when applying Polycrylic. In my workspace it’s usually between 60-70 degrees so I really don’t have any extreme comparisons in cold or warmer temperatures. I do know the Polycrylic dries fairly fast which makes working a breeze. I usually can get in two coats in one sitting.
Can you use the bootie over stained table top?
I chalk painted my kitchen counter. I am going to apply polycrylic. The only issue is if I have enough of the poly on my brush to cover from the beginning to the end of the counter.
I'll be honest I'm not the biggest fan of using water based topcoats like Polycrylic on high high traffic surfaces like kitchen counter tops and kitchen tables. I much prefer to use an oil based poly but I understand why people do it. What I do on larger longer surfaces I start on one end drag my brush to the middle, start on other end drag my brush to meet at the middle and then drag my brush in one super long stroke to blend the middles. I hope that makes sense.
I'm applying polyacrylic to dark gray chalk paint that dried overnight, I'm seeing some gray streaks make its way into the bowl of sealant. Is that normal, or just needs more dry time. Thanks for the videos!
fakeiteasy1 I believe you may need more dry time. Normally I wait a good 24 hours before I apply my Polycrylic. I also add a few drops of the paint color in my Polycrylic on darker paint colors. Especially black paint or a dark gray like you are mentioning. Sometimes on those darker colors Polycrylic can appear milky and you obviously don’t want that so adding a few drops of the paint color to the Polycrylic helps eliminate it.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 thank you very much for the response! I'm just going to wait it out and try again tomorrow. I appreciate the tip too; I'm going to add in some of the dark gray paint. Appreciate the advice and videos:)
fakeiteasy1 You are very welcome! I’m happy to help. I hope it goes smoothly for you tomorrow. Best of luck 😁
Hello is there a video on how you did this particular piece? That’s the look I want to do to my kitchen cupboards? Thanks in advance.
I have not done a tutorial on this particular look. I can put it on my tutorial to do list. I call this look Rustic Champange. It’s 3-4 paint colors layered.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 thanks so much.
I didn’t sand in-between coats. I should have read the instructions 🤦🏽♀️ but it turned out fine. Will it ruin with time or will it be okay?
Madison Young Hi there! Overall I think you should be fine. Sanding in between coats is more to ensure you have a super smooth finish when your surface dries.
Is this enamel paint? What colors? Thanks.
Collie Chronicles with LilyMae Doyle This is not enamel paint. These were a bunch of colors by Valspar paint. I think I used 5-6 different colors layering them and then distressing.
Do you sand the whole piece before putting on the first layer of polycrilic?
Kaitlyn Runion Hi! No I do not sand before I apply the first layer of Polycrylic.
Do you have any videos showing how you sand between the coats of polycrylic? I just did a layer on a the first big piece of furniture I've ever painted, I got some minor bubbles and now I'm scared to sand, the can recommends 220, which I used before when finishing something else that I wanted smooth, I did it extremely gently and it still went through and scratched up my paint surface :( why do they recommend such a low grit if it would take off too much of the poly or damage the painted surface underneath, now I've seen 400-600 grit recommended but I'm scared to try and scratch up my surface. The only tutorials I've seen where the 220 seems to work fine/great is when the polycrylic is used to finish unpainted wood.
TheDingfish I don’t believe I have any videos capturing my sanding inbetween coats. I use 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around a felt block and I sand starting from on edge to the other edge in one continuous motion. I do not vigorously sand. I lightly sand inbetween coats. How did you apply it? What kind of applicator? I usually don’t get any bubbles with the nylon booty wrapped around my foam brush.
TheDingfish And I’ll add I agree with you I think 220 is too low of a grit to sand with inbetween coats. I don’t know why they would recommend that grit. Sorry to hear you are having trouble.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 I was trying to use a foam roller, which was bought for another project(using to apply polycrylic to seal over a chalk painted floor, which several RUclips tutorials have shown works). I loaded up the roller with the polycrylic and the first few strokes on the table top were fine but it almost seemed like the foam was trapping air as I rolled and got 'foamy', by the 10th stroke it was like a sponge with dishwashing liquid it was that bubbly, I have no idea why this happened, I'm wondering if I used too much pressure while rolling but if I hadn't used the pressure I did, it would not have spread evenly(I was seeing patches created by the roller). In the end I grabbed my synthetic brush in a panic and quickly buffed out whatever I could and finished the first coat with the brush, it looks fine I think because my paint underneath is hiding any 'brush strokes' but I'm very confused about the foam roller bubbling like that as I was planning to use it on other projects where I want a smooth finish like the floor..anyway thank you so much for your reply, I just have to keep experimenting
TheDingfish I’ve never applied Polycrylic over a floor. Regarding the table top I would have advised staying away from using a roller of any kind to apply Polycrylic. What I’ve learned with applying it you don’t have much time to manipulate it. Meaning once you put it down on your surface don’t go over it multiple times trying to get it perfect. It will start to streak, bubble and lift off. I apply mine with a 2 inch foam brush with a nylon booty over it. The nylon booty helps pop those little bubbles and gives it a nice smooth application. So sorry this has been such a steep learning curve for you. I’ve been there as well.
Hi, could you share the link to which booties you buy from amazon? I want to order some but I'm not sure which ones are actually a good size, quality etc. I've tried cutting up panty hose but that doesn't fit well beyond the toe area.
www.amazon.com/Foot-Sox-Original-Sanitary-Disposable/dp/B008NCHM9Y/ref=sr_1_5?crid=GUTQA9TRUKM5&dchild=1&keywords=nylon+booties&qid=1592370317&sprefix=nylon+boo%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-5
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 thank you so much!
Is polycrylic safe to apply indoors?
Lindsey Walters Yes absolutely safe to apply indoors.
Do you wash your brush and panty hose after use?
ED HARRINGTON I usually pitch both after I’m done with them. They get pretty beat up.
What is the purpose of the booty? I have a piece that I painted for my son and it has been sitting there waiting for the topcoat.
Crystal Smith The nylon booty helps eliminate bubbles forming which is common with applying Polycrylic. It also helps to give you a smooth finish. The mesh of the nylon booty helps with those issues.
Not sure how to perfect the rows as you apply polycrylic on the top surface of the piece of furniture.
Usually your first coat you miss some spots. This is absolutely normal. My biggest piece of advice is don't over work Polycrylic. You will get those missed areas on your second and third coat.
Doesn't really address the problem.
so annoying, she keeps repeating herself over and over again. I couldn't get through this video. Looked elsewhere.
Well aren’t you a peach? Banking on the fact over 9,300 people have watched this video and the majority have found it helpful I would advise if you don’t like a video simply exit it. No need to comment. So simple right Laurie? Yet you felt the need to write a nasty comment. I’m so glad you looked elsewhere. 🙄
My Dad always said “if you don’t have something nice to say, don’t say anything at all”
When I’m trying to find instructions, I’m looking for the video that gives me the best information in the most concise manner. When I’m looking I always check video comments to see whether or not somebody is offering realistic honest reviews of what the content is. The woman offering this video really did not do a great job. So for people like me who don’t wanna waste time being treated like we’re in grade school, I have the free will to write a comment. If you don’t like my comment, you move on. I didn’t say she was anything bad I just said that it was completely annoying, which it was.