The fact that you can remove plastic eletrical connections and clips is mechanic wizardry !! I break them literally every time. Great video! I appreciate the detailed videos with tricks and tips that apply to all vehicles!
Excellent video, Faye. I like your "resonant frequency" method of separating tie rods and ball joints. It works every time. Looking forward to see the actual bearing replacement procedure. It looks like your chickens have good table manners, because they wipe their mouth off after they eat! Keep up the great work.
🤣🤣🤣 yes, my chickens definitely like to keep clean!! and yes I hope to put out the second part next Monday and it will feature our favorite Machinist on the press 😃🤘🏻
Thank you for posting, why on the world would you take that spindle off the truck to remove the hub? I watched part 2 and the hub practically fell out after loosening its four bolts
You're welcome! For maximum content; folks may search ball joint R&R or knuckle removal and find part 1, not need the wheel bearing part, which is also why I separated the bearing pressing into another video as well, for those who only wanted to see that part!👍🏻
Faye you’re absolutely amazing 🤩, so fun to watch you work, I’m taking a break on this slow Sunday morning and enjoying your work and I did miss your famous intro 😂 hi I’m Faye “points at shirt” ....
how can you determine whether you need to replace the whole assembly or just insert the small piece? and TRQ makes an assembly that has pretty good reviews from the tacoma forums!
Gah! Never even thought of using a pick on connectors like that. That's...a good idea. Hate connectors, I wish they made them all the same, or at least somewhat similar!
I spy a SUPRA! 😁! Very informative! Something you might try using wrenches..... the wrench you used take a same type and put the closed end on the open end to give more leverage. Give it a try you might be surprised. Keep up the great job!
Is this something that should be done at what mileage? Or is this a repair when needed? How do you know its needed? FYI 2003 Tacoma Xtra Cab 5VZ-FE 122K miles?
are the bolts you use at around 5:34 to help remove the disc the same as whats used to attach the caliper brackets that you removed previously or some other bolt that was removed? I thought manufacturers did this so youd already have the bolt on hand and would not have to source your own.
Great Tutorial Faye your level of Mechanical outlook is second to none, removing everything out of the way first maybe to most a bit daunting but take note everyone, like Faye has shown you it may be a bit more work but it's done properly and it WILL save you from braking unnecessary parts, and it's well worth clearing everything it makes the job in hand so much easier in the long run, not cutting corners is the key and you don't end up straining your tools, the only extra thing I've always done though is I like to get in there with a wire brush on everything I undo just on the threads, pleasure to watch you Faye keep the videos coming, Ace job, from a new subscriber 😉👍
Oh, yeah. Full on dirty repair job. Nothing like a gravy bearing replacement!!!!! Can't wait. I've watched at least 12 bearing replacements by Eric O. and I still was excited to watch this one. Now ... if I could only get at the diff. pressure sensor on my DPF so easily ...
Someone keeps getting better and better with their tutorials! Nice! I just replaced the rear brake pads (1st time for me) on my 3rd gen 4Runner and kept thinking...."What would Faye do?" They turned out perfect. :)
Hi Faye, love how you give tips & tricks that apply to other vehicles as well. Sorry I have to tell you that there was a SUPRA distraction in the background 😂. MUSIC, PEACE & ASSEMBLY GREASE
Blue pit bearings make good hub assemblies . You can also get the assembly with OEM parts. They have several options for different budgets. Replaced my 4th gen 4Runner assembly over two years ago with no problems. Awesome Video as always!!!!
Great video! Your energy and enthusiasm is amazing! You're definitely a bright spot on the interweb. Chicken and all! You inspired me to tackle a motor change in a Tacoma. Your recommendation of using a bent end needle nose pliers was a God send! Keep Shining!
Hey Faye, you keep doing videos of jobs ive just done haha. wheel bearings and lower control arms on a rusty transit in the UK, on the driveway. I reckon I just saved myself a lot of money doing myself. First wheel bearing I did with chinese hydraulic hub puller, bearing puller and bearing seperator, very satisfying but getting that bearing assembly back on the hub shaft was hard going. Lucky I got access to a 6 tonne press for the second one, 2 mins instead of 1hr40. Got to remember that 2 hammer technique, I used one to drop my balljoints out. Another good job and service with a smile :-)
Jeez, why didn't I think of that for pushing off seized brake rotors? (Smacking myself in the forehead now.) So this is why I watch these videos - I learn so much. Thanks Faye!
In industry we call them jack screws and they are common for tapered hubs. My old Mazda truck had them on the rear drums but the Americans are too cheap to drill and tap 2 more holes.
State motto, “In Pennsylvania we rust”. Lol (not!) We bought a Ranger from up North. I was driving down a long hill. The light at the bottom turned red. I sailed on through stomping on the brake pedal all the way. Didn’t think to hit the emergency brake it happened so fast. Rusty brake line. Great aerobic workout.
Takes me back to 1997 and doing wheel bearing in the front hubs on my AMC Eagle. Of course I was a broke college kid, had the car on stands in the parking lot, and beat the races out with a chisel on a block of wood on the living room floor. Good times!
Nice , do you think the ball joints boot needs grease I just grease my truck this Saturday had to use a needle on my grease gun . Thinking of doing my bearings on my truck 17 year old truck,
Yes!! This is actually something that I mentioned but cut out of this video to keep it a certain length (but it is going on the longer version that I add to my patreon page!) I actually have a blunt tip syringe that I use for lubing the tie rod ends and the ball joints!! I did that on this vehicle 😊
Super Faye to the job. Great video, I guess you are lucky you dont live in the RUST Belt.. That looked so easy but I guess when you got a Rack life is always easy. Keep the good work up and always enjoy the happy hour with Danny :)
@@FayeHadley obviously I want to cut out extra work by purchasing a complete assembled bearing/hub. Does napa or any other parts house has a reliable hub set...? Theres no way I will ever buy a product that will help China destroy our economy or health.
I'm curious why you didn't just remove the brakes and pull the hub off the steering knuckle. Then press The bearing unit apart,replace the bearing and reassemble. Ill watch part 2 and find out. You are so luck to live where rust isn't your worst enemy. Wheel censors and small bolts never come out without a fight where I live.
If I lived closer to you Faye I’d let you work on my 69 FJ40.Original straight 6 with 3 on the tree,going to be doing general maintenance and some upgrades,but I live in Tennessee.
Faye, you mentioned poor quality aftermarket hub assemblies and I hear that myself from a mechanic that has worked on my chevy truck as he replaced with genuine Delco in that case but I wonder if you've had anything to do with the Timken brand hubs as they at least are known to make good bearings so could the hubs be good ... never know these days with farming out component manufacturing but putting your own quality name on them although no idea what Timken does. In any event you may have had some experience or other mechanics you know having tried them out or maybe my comment will get you curious enough to try a set sometime if you are rushed for time to sort out rebuilding the old ones and I see they do make them for the two and four wheel drive Tacoma.
I actually have had great luck with timken on other vehicles, never used them in this application but I think I'd take the risk!! They make killer bearings.
@@FayeHadley Price will be part of the determining factor for sure, you would know your costs and time rebuilt vs grabbing a new assembly. Also a bearing is only as good as the seal they use. I use Timken brand bearings ( not these unit bearings obviously ) for my farm equipment and highway tractor wheel ends if I have a choice but refuse to use the off beat brands some parts stores flog off on the customers.
@@chrisl8312 Ooooh, I will make part 2 for Monday. There have been some great recommendations for full hub assemblies (none that I have experience with, I prefer Toyota brand) but may be worth researching to make your life easier!! Or, you can stay tuned for next Monday!!!
True that!! I thought of that too - I need a gopro for mounting under the cars, but this one is pretty straightforward: a SUPER loud growling sound from the front wheel area that you can actually feel through the floorboards.
I think almost every technician in the world wears safety glasses like you do, seemed like every time I wore them correctly I always got shit in my eyes 😝😝😝
I do wear them correctly! I put them on when my eyes are in danger, and I take them off so I can see clearly, but always have them nearby when/if needed. 10 years, not a single piece of anything in my eye. Sounds like the right way to do it, no?
Great job. I wouldn't have done anything different. I'd just like to toss in my two cents for folks that may be doing some front end work, stuff that was not relevant on this vehicle but may be on something similar. On some vehicles, when you remove the caliper, the brake pads can fall out. I'm not sure, but I don't think that's an issue with this truck. However, if you do have one of those, just wad up a clean shop rag or some paper towels and stuff them between the pads to hold them in place while you work. Those threaded holes for removing the brake rotor work great... in Texas. Anywhere north of there where you get the white sky poo and they corrode up pretty quick. In those cases, shoot some penetrating oil as best you can between the rotor and the hub and rap the side of the "hat" on the rotor. It should eventually bust loose, "should" being the operative word. With the sway bar link, Toyota is great in that you can stick an allen key in there to keep the stud from spinning as you pull the nut (or spin the stud as you hold the nut like Faye did. more than one way to skin a cat.) But, many vehicles and most after-market parts don't have that. Instead, if you go on the other side of the knuckle, in between the knuckle and the link, you should find a pair of flat spots on the stud that you can put an open end wrench on to hold the stud still. They can be a little tricky to find but I've rarely seen one without them. Just be careful not to damage the rubber boot. I did a front end rebuild on my 96 1st Gen Taco about 10 years back. For a couple of years, Toyota mounted the ball joints backwards. Instead of the ball joint mounted in the control arm with the stud going into the steering knuckle, the ball joint was pressed into the steering knuckle with the stud going into the control arm. This next bit is only relevant if you have one of those. If you are replacing those ball joints, odds are that you will not be able to get a ball joint press in straight. The way I did it was to use the smallest diameter adapter my kit had which was still slightly too big to get a straight press. Get it on as straight as you can and tighten until you start to get resistance. Stop and rap the side of the knuckle a few times with a ball peen. Then tighten it again and rap it again. At this point, the press needs to be readjusted. Just keep going like this, tighten, rap, readjust. It will take forever and a day, but you will eventually get it. Just be careful and don't get impatient and tighten too much in one go or you could tear up your knuckle. Hopefully Faye has got a better way to do this for us folks that don't have a shop press. Secondly, again if you have one of those where the ball joint stud goes into the control arm, be advised that the Haynes manual is wrong. The Haynes manual says to torque the nut to 105 ft/lbs. So I set my torque wrench and slowly started pulling. And pulling. And pulled some more. Damn, isn't this supposed to get tighter and tighter as it approaches 105? I took the torque wrench off and checked it on a lug nut on my big truck. Works fine, so I put it back on the ball joint nut and kept pulling. It finally stopped. It didn't get tighter and tighter and "click." No, it stopped dead and "clicked." On these trucks, that upper control arm is stamped, not cast. I had sucked the stud all the way through the control arm. It stopped because it ran out of threads. I went and double checked the Haynes manual. 105 ft/lbs. Then I got my hands on a service manual from Toyota. Sure enough, it says 105... newton/meters! That's only about 77 ft/lbs. No wonder. I had to fork out nearly $300 for a new control arm. Most of the time, Haynes is great, but sometimes a typo can cost you. Crap. I wrote a whole dissertation. Hopefully, someone will find some use for this old shade tree's incoherent rambling. Thanks again, Faye. I'm always learning new stuff. Looking forward to part deuse!
To the points that are relevant here: - no, the brake pads here won't fall out. They are held in with pins. - I actually did film the technique for removing the rotor the way you are describing here, but I thought it was a little too long and too much, so I clipped it out and have included it int he full-length version that is up on my Patreon page. - Exactly (on the sway bar) that's why you gotta love Toyota! - I have every torque spec and will be including those with part 2 video Thanks for the input!!
You'd think the 2wd would be a bit simpler than the 4wd but it's not at all, you still need the damn press. I love working on Toyotas but the wheel bearings (rears are the worst) on any of the trucks are a friggin' nightmare.
they literally make hangers just for holding up calipers. they're called caliper hangers. not sure why you went through all that. plus farmgirl is right. i miss when you'd point to your name badge :(
I have a lot going on right now so I was editing this video literally at 2 a.m. on Monday morning, and when I realized that my intro clip was total garbage I did not feel like getting dressed, driving to the shop, and filming it at 3 and not getting any sleep, just for the sake of congruency. Glad to know so many of y'all think it's cute though!! I thought maybe it was getting old! I actually sell "It's Faye" pins on my website: www.pistonsandpixiedust.com/merch if you'd like to check it out!! Every purchase helps out this channel immensely!😃 Also in the ten years that I've been wrenching I've never needed a caliper hanger nor have I felt that it would be better than just regular wire; however if YOU think that it would be better, than I invite you to use it when you do this job!!😃☝🏻 Even if I had one, I would not have used it here because of the length: it would not end up where I wanted it, and I like to maintain a certain slack in the brake hose. I would not have hung it off the strut either, because of all the movement when I was doing this job I would have preferred to just tied out of the way exactly like I did here. So yeah! Even if someone was to give me that tool for free I would have still done it this way because I think that is what is best! In this tutorial video, as with all my videos, I'm just trying to be helpful and show people how I do this job, but that does not mean that you have to follow me to a "T" - this isn't meant to be the automotive Bible; you most certainly can use a caliper hanger if you think that is easier and better for you!!
Of course Toyota has strike points of course they do👍 Faye is simply riveting one week and absolutely striking the next, this girl.........🐔🐔🐔 how many miles was on that truck had to be over 100,000
Oh my gosh, actually that's a really good price from the dealership. You will see why when I upload part 2 of this video! yes you can definitely have done the wheel bearings yourself but you probably would have still had to pay a machine shop to press them out for you and they are one of the harder wheel bearings to press!!!
You are the best
I super wish you had a radiator replacement tutorial.
@12:50 The double-hammer trick. This is AWESOME!
Very informative, thank you
Nicely explained
Seam like a awesome gal. Getting ready to do mine..
The fact that you can remove plastic eletrical connections and clips is mechanic wizardry !! I break them literally every time. Great video! I appreciate the detailed videos with tricks and tips that apply to all vehicles!
THANK YOU!!!
Must not make chest joke....Must Not Make Chest Joke......MUST NOT MAKE CHEST JOKE.... You are amazing, Faye!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The best lady 💓 thanks ssssss
Learned the 2 hammer trick from John Muir's " How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive for the Compleat Idiot" Circa 1968
Excellent video, Faye. I like your "resonant frequency" method of separating tie rods and ball joints. It works every time. Looking forward to see the actual bearing replacement procedure. It looks like your chickens have good table manners, because they wipe their mouth off after they eat! Keep up the great work.
🤣🤣🤣 yes, my chickens definitely like to keep clean!! and yes I hope to put out the second part next Monday and it will feature our favorite Machinist on the press 😃🤘🏻
Perfect timing on this video! I'm doing this in a few days
Freakin awesome!
Nice; clear and simple and easy to understand, i like the part 1.
Thank you for posting, why on the world would you take that spindle off the truck to remove the hub? I watched part 2 and the hub practically fell out after loosening its four bolts
You're welcome! For maximum content; folks may search ball joint R&R or knuckle removal and find part 1, not need the wheel bearing part, which is also why I separated the bearing pressing into another video as well, for those who only wanted to see that part!👍🏻
“Hey, it’s Faye” (point to name on shirt) I miss that. Lol I use your pick trick and I no longer destroy plastic connectors. Yay!
Awww!! I am sorry! I cut out the intro because it was super dumb. I promise I won't next time!!!
Faye you’re absolutely amazing 🤩, so fun to watch you work, I’m taking a break on this slow Sunday morning and enjoying your work and I did miss your famous intro 😂 hi I’m Faye “points at shirt” ....
how can you determine whether you need to replace the whole assembly or just insert the small piece? and TRQ makes an assembly that has pretty good reviews from the tacoma forums!
2005-15 tacoma best midsize pickup ever!! change my mind!!!!!!!!!!!!
@shane well, usa only lol
Gah! Never even thought of using a pick on connectors like that. That's...a good idea. Hate connectors, I wish they made them all the same, or at least somewhat similar!
Where was i ,seen part 2 first oh well I'm all in this now , keep up the good work🌹
I spy a SUPRA! 😁! Very informative! Something you might try using wrenches..... the wrench you used take a same type and put the closed end on the open end to give more leverage. Give it a try you might be surprised. Keep up the great job!
YES!! I LOVE THAT TRICK!!!!!! I also like to get a little workout and push my strength to the next level 💪😅
@@FayeHadley lol too funny! Build those GUNS UP! See you Wednesday.
Is this something that should be done at what mileage? Or is this a repair when needed? How do you know its needed? FYI 2003 Tacoma Xtra Cab 5VZ-FE 122K miles?
You're so bubbly Faye. I love your channel.
are the bolts you use at around 5:34 to help remove the disc the same as whats used to attach the caliper brackets that you removed previously or some other bolt that was removed? I thought manufacturers did this so youd already have the bolt on hand and would not have to source your own.
Those are M8 Bolts.
@@meatball_tactical fine thread or coarse?
@@SquirmyChunk231 M8 x 1.25
@@meatball_tactical thanks much appreciated 😁
Your doing a smacking good job , 😅 I like watching it get done better than doing it myself , keep up the good works 🌹
Great Tutorial Faye your level of Mechanical outlook is second to none, removing everything out of the way first maybe to most a bit daunting but take note everyone, like Faye has shown you it may be a bit more work but it's done properly and it WILL save you from braking unnecessary parts, and it's well worth clearing everything it makes the job in hand so much easier in the long run, not cutting corners is the key and you don't end up straining your tools, the only extra thing I've always done though is I like to get in there with a wire brush on everything I undo just on the threads, pleasure to watch you Faye keep the videos coming, Ace job, from a new subscriber 😉👍
Thank you so much, and welcome to the channel!! Thank you for your sub, I really appreciate it!
Excellent information.
The Orielly's Master Pro Hubs last about 10K miles and fail.
Correct 👍🏻 stay awayyyy
Hey Faye! I taught myself tie rods when I was at trade school!
Oh, yeah. Full on dirty repair job. Nothing like a gravy bearing replacement!!!!! Can't wait. I've watched at least 12 bearing replacements by Eric O. and I still was excited to watch this one.
Now ... if I could only get at the diff. pressure sensor on my DPF so easily ...
Thank you Faye for these educational videos. Helps me out a lot. 💜
You are so welcome! I am so glad that you like them:)
How do you always seem to make me smile when I watch your videos 😁
Pixie Dust!!!
!!!!!!!!!
Go Faye! Love your videos and personality.
Thank you!!!!!
Someone keeps getting better and better with their tutorials! Nice! I just replaced the rear brake pads (1st time for me) on my 3rd gen 4Runner and kept thinking...."What would Faye do?" They turned out perfect. :)
AHHHHH YAYYYYYYY😃🙌🏻
Love love you videos ,Faye.
Hi Faye, love how you give tips & tricks that apply to other vehicles as well.
Sorry I have to tell you that there was a SUPRA distraction in the background 😂.
MUSIC, PEACE & ASSEMBLY GREASE
Blue pit bearings make good hub assemblies . You can also get the assembly with OEM parts. They have several options for different budgets. Replaced my 4th gen 4Runner assembly over two years ago with no problems. Awesome Video as always!!!!
Awesome!!!!!😃
Love your videos your attention to detail is great you must of had great instructors love the passion you have for the industry
Great job Faye. I wish I was working there with NO RUST. Here in the northeast it makes the job more involved.
Oh yeah I remember that very well!! My first automotive apprenticeship was in Providence Rhode island 😰 yikes!!!!!
Cute, adorable, and sexy
I like the way you explain how to remove the plug clips..most videos does not show you that..they can be a nightmare sometimes..thanks
You're welcome! :))
Great video! Your energy and enthusiasm is amazing! You're definitely a bright spot on the interweb. Chicken and all! You inspired me to tackle a motor change in a Tacoma. Your recommendation of using a bent end needle nose pliers was a God send! Keep Shining!
Hey Faye, you keep doing videos of jobs ive just done haha. wheel bearings and lower control arms on a rusty transit in the UK, on the driveway. I reckon I just saved myself a lot of money doing myself. First wheel bearing I did with chinese hydraulic hub puller, bearing puller and bearing seperator, very satisfying but getting that bearing assembly back on the hub shaft was hard going. Lucky I got access to a 6 tonne press for the second one, 2 mins instead of 1hr40. Got to remember that 2 hammer technique, I used one to drop my balljoints out. Another good job and service with a smile :-)
Detroit axel has a good hub assembly for the Tacoma.
Ah good to know! I have seen it, but never used it and don't have experience with it. Good to hear it is quality, because pressing these is a B!!!
I put them on my 14 Tacoma 4 months ago, and so far so good. 👍🏻🤘🏻
👍 Very nice! I definitely picked some well needed tips. Thanks! Looking forward to PT2.
Jeez, why didn't I think of that for pushing off seized brake rotors? (Smacking myself in the forehead now.) So this is why I watch these videos - I learn so much. Thanks Faye!
Oh my gosh thank you for letting me know that means everything!!!! that is my motivation for continuing to make one of these every week 😁🤘🏻
In industry we call them jack screws and they are common for tapered hubs. My old Mazda truck had them on the rear drums but the Americans are too cheap to drill and tap 2 more holes.
@@juliuswolbrueck4609 I just need to know the size/thread pitch for said Jack bolts so I don't strip the threads 🤔
100% agree with not opening the brake system if I don't need to. It doesn't help that I'm in Pennsylvania the home of rust.
State motto, “In Pennsylvania we rust”. Lol (not!) We bought a Ranger from up North. I was driving down a long hill. The light at the bottom turned red. I sailed on through stomping on the brake pedal all the way. Didn’t think to hit the emergency brake it happened so fast. Rusty brake line. Great aerobic workout.
Takes me back to 1997 and doing wheel bearing in the front hubs on my AMC Eagle. Of course I was a broke college kid, had the car on stands in the parking lot, and beat the races out with a chisel on a block of wood on the living room floor. Good times!
Aww what an adorable little speed sensor
I know 💕
👍👍👍👍good stuff
Hey Faye like watching you work on the cars keep up the content…✌🏻
Thank you! Will do! :))
Nice , do you think the ball joints boot needs grease I just grease my truck this Saturday had to use a needle on my grease gun . Thinking of doing my bearings on my truck 17 year old truck,
Yes!! This is actually something that I mentioned but cut out of this video to keep it a certain length (but it is going on the longer version that I add to my patreon page!) I actually have a blunt tip syringe that I use for lubing the tie rod ends and the ball joints!! I did that on this vehicle 😊
Super Faye to the job. Great video, I guess you are lucky you dont live in the RUST Belt.. That looked so easy but I guess when you got a Rack life is always easy. Keep the good work up and always enjoy the happy hour with Danny :)
Hey! Faye! A good way to start the week a lady turning wrenches!
Faye working on that vehicle like my pitbull works on a ribeye steak!
And the Phantasmagorical Phluffy Chicken looking for circlips!!
BAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA
What company makes a complete hub assembly...no China junk.
I only use Factory Toyota
@@FayeHadley obviously I want to cut out extra work by purchasing a complete assembled bearing/hub. Does napa or any other parts house has a reliable hub set...? Theres no way I will ever buy a product that will help China destroy our economy or health.
i don't like to use the so called pickle fork to remove tie rod ends because i found they can damage the boot very easily.
So true!!!! That's why I love just smacking it with a hammer 😅👍🏻
So much easier to do when you're lying on your back in the driveway! Faye will give those bearings what for.... with style and grace of course!
I'm curious why you didn't just remove the brakes and pull the hub off the steering knuckle. Then press The bearing unit apart,replace the bearing and reassemble. Ill watch part 2 and find out.
You are so luck to live where rust isn't your worst enemy. Wheel censors and small bolts never come out without a fight where I live.
You shall see in part 2🤘🏻😃
💯 Awesome 😎👍
Did any of you notice that Faye lives dangerously using chrome sockets on an impact 😂
I was wondering how long it would take to have someone point that out!!!! Well shoot, I guess 1 minute!!!! BAAHAHAHA
@@FayeHadley The trick to using chrome sockets on an impact is to be sure your Common Senser is correctly calibrated...
@@juliuswolbrueck4609 Yesssss, HAHA I agree!!
If I lived closer to you Faye I’d let you work on my 69 FJ40.Original straight 6 with 3 on the tree,going to be doing general maintenance and some upgrades,but I live in Tennessee.
Nice trick handing off the ball joint with two hammers. I'll have to keep that in mind.
Faye, you mentioned poor quality aftermarket hub assemblies and I hear that myself from a mechanic that has worked on my chevy truck as he replaced with genuine Delco in that case but I wonder if you've had anything to do with the Timken brand hubs as they at least are known to make good bearings so could the hubs be good ... never know these days with farming out component manufacturing but putting your own quality name on them although no idea what Timken does. In any event you may have had some experience or other mechanics you know having tried them out or maybe my comment will get you curious enough to try a set sometime if you are rushed for time to sort out rebuilding the old ones and I see they do make them for the two and four wheel drive Tacoma.
I've had good luck with Timken package bearings and will pick them over no names any time.
I agree
I actually have had great luck with timken on other vehicles, never used them in this application but I think I'd take the risk!! They make killer bearings.
@@FayeHadley Price will be part of the determining factor for sure, you would know your costs and time rebuilt vs grabbing a new assembly. Also a bearing is only as good as the seal they use. I use Timken brand bearings ( not these unit bearings obviously ) for my farm equipment and highway tractor wheel ends if I have a choice but refuse to use the off beat brands some parts stores flog off on the customers.
@@charlesb4267 You will see in part 2 that pressing these is A TOTAL PAIN. If you use the Timken hubs, your life will probably be much easier.
Would this be the same thing on a Tundra?
Yes! Very similar process!
Well the chicken made my day.
What brand is the blue impact?
Looks like matco
It's a Cornwell actually!
✝️🇺🇸👍 good morning everyone hope you all have a great day thanks for the video
Who makes the panel popping tool?
Oh my gosh, it's a no-name brand that came in a kit of Christmas tree clip assortment that I got off Amazon. I'll try to find it
amzn.to/2X2Yu4E there it is!! :) link in description as well, thanks for the rec!!
With being in the exhaust shop industry for years, I used exhaust hangers that you would used to hang up the exhaust pipes in storage..
So smart!!!!
Crome sockets on an impact or did I see that wrong? If so, is it ok to do so? I thought it wasn’t.
They're snap on, warranty if necessary, but I'm not abusing them.
@@FayeHadley gotcha. This video was very serendipitous, as I have to do the wheel bearing on my 4runner soon. Thanks for the great vid.
@@chrisl8312 Ooooh, I will make part 2 for Monday. There have been some great recommendations for full hub assemblies (none that I have experience with, I prefer Toyota brand) but may be worth researching to make your life easier!! Or, you can stay tuned for next Monday!!!
Faye do you have a set of caliper hangers
No, just wire and coat hangers!!!😅👍🏻
@@FayeHadley do you have a po box? I'll buy you some. I love them. I use them all the time.
I am not a professional at all so I am wondering, why not just remove the hub instead of the whole knuckle?
Great question!! You shall see in part 2! I think this way is easiest!
Luna totally dominated that radish.
I think that might have been a grape 🤣🤣🤣 the chickens seem to love grapes and cherry tomatoes!!! So cute!!!!
Oh, gosh, look at how clean the truck is ... almost no rust. Up here ... get the air hammer and torch out for a bearing job.
Would be cool to see how you diagnose that wheel bearings need replacement
True that!! I thought of that too - I need a gopro for mounting under the cars, but this one is pretty straightforward: a SUPER loud growling sound from the front wheel area that you can actually feel through the floorboards.
I think almost every technician in the world wears safety glasses like you do, seemed like every time I wore them correctly I always got shit in my eyes 😝😝😝
I do wear them correctly! I put them on when my eyes are in danger, and I take them off so I can see clearly, but always have them nearby when/if needed. 10 years, not a single piece of anything in my eye. Sounds like the right way to do it, no?
Faye Hadley 🤘🤘
💩 👁
Great job. I wouldn't have done anything different. I'd just like to toss in my two cents for folks that may be doing some front end work, stuff that was not relevant on this vehicle but may be on something similar.
On some vehicles, when you remove the caliper, the brake pads can fall out. I'm not sure, but I don't think that's an issue with this truck. However, if you do have one of those, just wad up a clean shop rag or some paper towels and stuff them between the pads to hold them in place while you work.
Those threaded holes for removing the brake rotor work great... in Texas. Anywhere north of there where you get the white sky poo and they corrode up pretty quick. In those cases, shoot some penetrating oil as best you can between the rotor and the hub and rap the side of the "hat" on the rotor. It should eventually bust loose, "should" being the operative word.
With the sway bar link, Toyota is great in that you can stick an allen key in there to keep the stud from spinning as you pull the nut (or spin the stud as you hold the nut like Faye did. more than one way to skin a cat.) But, many vehicles and most after-market parts don't have that. Instead, if you go on the other side of the knuckle, in between the knuckle and the link, you should find a pair of flat spots on the stud that you can put an open end wrench on to hold the stud still. They can be a little tricky to find but I've rarely seen one without them. Just be careful not to damage the rubber boot.
I did a front end rebuild on my 96 1st Gen Taco about 10 years back. For a couple of years, Toyota mounted the ball joints backwards. Instead of the ball joint mounted in the control arm with the stud going into the steering knuckle, the ball joint was pressed into the steering knuckle with the stud going into the control arm. This next bit is only relevant if you have one of those.
If you are replacing those ball joints, odds are that you will not be able to get a ball joint press in straight. The way I did it was to use the smallest diameter adapter my kit had which was still slightly too big to get a straight press. Get it on as straight as you can and tighten until you start to get resistance. Stop and rap the side of the knuckle a few times with a ball peen. Then tighten it again and rap it again. At this point, the press needs to be readjusted. Just keep going like this, tighten, rap, readjust. It will take forever and a day, but you will eventually get it. Just be careful and don't get impatient and tighten too much in one go or you could tear up your knuckle. Hopefully Faye has got a better way to do this for us folks that don't have a shop press.
Secondly, again if you have one of those where the ball joint stud goes into the control arm, be advised that the Haynes manual is wrong. The Haynes manual says to torque the nut to 105 ft/lbs. So I set my torque wrench and slowly started pulling. And pulling. And pulled some more. Damn, isn't this supposed to get tighter and tighter as it approaches 105? I took the torque wrench off and checked it on a lug nut on my big truck. Works fine, so I put it back on the ball joint nut and kept pulling.
It finally stopped. It didn't get tighter and tighter and "click." No, it stopped dead and "clicked." On these trucks, that upper control arm is stamped, not cast. I had sucked the stud all the way through the control arm. It stopped because it ran out of threads. I went and double checked the Haynes manual. 105 ft/lbs. Then I got my hands on a service manual from Toyota. Sure enough, it says 105... newton/meters! That's only about 77 ft/lbs. No wonder. I had to fork out nearly $300 for a new control arm. Most of the time, Haynes is great, but sometimes a typo can cost you.
Crap. I wrote a whole dissertation. Hopefully, someone will find some use for this old shade tree's incoherent rambling. Thanks again, Faye. I'm always learning new stuff. Looking forward to part deuse!
To the points that are relevant here:
- no, the brake pads here won't fall out. They are held in with pins.
- I actually did film the technique for removing the rotor the way you are describing here, but I thought it was a little too long and too much, so I clipped it out and have included it int he full-length version that is up on my Patreon page.
- Exactly (on the sway bar) that's why you gotta love Toyota!
- I have every torque spec and will be including those with part 2 video
Thanks for the input!!
You'd think the 2wd would be a bit simpler than the 4wd but it's not at all, you still need the damn press. I love working on Toyotas but the wheel bearings (rears are the worst) on any of the trucks are a friggin' nightmare.
AGREEEEEEEED
they literally make hangers just for holding up calipers. they're called caliper hangers. not sure why you went through all that. plus farmgirl is right. i miss when you'd point to your name badge :(
I have a lot going on right now so I was editing this video literally at 2 a.m. on Monday morning, and when I realized that my intro clip was total garbage I did not feel like getting dressed, driving to the shop, and filming it at 3 and not getting any sleep, just for the sake of congruency. Glad to know so many of y'all think it's cute though!! I thought maybe it was getting old! I actually sell "It's Faye" pins on my website: www.pistonsandpixiedust.com/merch if you'd like to check it out!! Every purchase helps out this channel immensely!😃
Also in the ten years that I've been wrenching I've never needed a caliper hanger nor have I felt that it would be better than just regular wire; however if YOU think that it would be better, than I invite you to use it when you do this job!!😃☝🏻
Even if I had one, I would not have used it here because of the length: it would not end up where I wanted it, and I like to maintain a certain slack in the brake hose. I would not have hung it off the strut either, because of all the movement when I was doing this job I would have preferred to just tied out of the way exactly like I did here.
So yeah! Even if someone was to give me that tool for free I would have still done it this way because I think that is what is best! In this tutorial video, as with all my videos, I'm just trying to be helpful and show people how I do this job, but that does not mean that you have to follow me to a "T" - this isn't meant to be the automotive Bible; you most certainly can use a caliper hanger if you think that is easier and better for you!!
Supra sighting @11:33 ❤🐔
I WAS HOPING SOMEONE WOULD NOTICE!!!
Of course Toyota has strike points of course they do👍 Faye is simply riveting one week and absolutely striking the next, this girl.........🐔🐔🐔 how many miles was on that truck had to be over 100,000
Yes, 160k and it has water damage in that side. The other side was only meh.
Faye Hadley It was just unusual to have two things bad like that it happens but not so much for Toyotas that’s why we love them🙂
@@johnmbell4642 True that!!!
A long time ago I paid $800 for this service, if I would have known better could have avoided the stealership
Oh my gosh, actually that's a really good price from the dealership. You will see why when I upload part 2 of this video! yes you can definitely have done the wheel bearings yourself but you probably would have still had to pay a machine shop to press them out for you and they are one of the harder wheel bearings to press!!!
👍🏼
nice looking eyes
3:10 I see one, where is the other?
???
I get it, Faye said pair.
I think you said pair.
Careful with that wobble socket ... it will rearrange your dental work ... don't ask me how I know.
9:10 lol