You're supposed to just tighten, but not torque the UCA through bolt. Then you torque the ball joint and connect everything else back up. Then you're supposed to drop it back down to settle the UCA bushings before torquing the through bolt. This is impossible when the wheel is on, so you can simulate by using the jack under the LCA up and down a few times to make sure the UCA bushings aren't in any bind when you torque them down
Hey buddy, very helpful and informative video. We knocked both sides out in about 90 minutes and made it look easy. I’ll always pay it forward to send folks your way.
Your videos are fantastic. Just used this and the shock replacement videos to redo my own suspension. Thanks for the heads up on the sheetmetal bending to get the long UCA bolt out!
This was so good! Now I understand why I'm paying what the local guy is charging me to do this work and I don't feel so bad. And my undercarriage is at least as rusty as this one!
Right! I was recently quoted $1250 to replace the UCA’s and I am over trying to figure out if I can do it myself for cheaper lol but I think I’m going to leave this one to the pro
I thought you weren't supposed to torque anything with a bushing inside when its not under load since it will be pinched when getting the car back on the ground.
I am doing my homework so I can rebuild the whole front suspension on my 05 taco. Front coilovers, upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar connect, and lastly the rear shocks, the leaf springs were replace not too long ago my Toyota recall. Woooo never done something this much so I'm planning this out and hopefully no bolts snap. 🙏🏻.
Nice dam job. Love videos that don’t drag on and are very descriptive and to the point. I came to see how the long control arm bolt came out. I pulled the cab off the frame to do it.
This is true, but the UCA on the Tacomas are pretty much horizontal on stock ride height, where he torqued it at 5:40 seems to be good to where it wont bind when the weight is on the suspension. once the wheels are on its kind of difficult to torque that nut.
"torqued" lol. fire. thanks for the video. im at the dealership now getting my lower control arms replaced and this was helpful in understanding what they are doing.
Hi, thank you for your videos ,.. I recently noticed the rubber bushing is torn on my ….. I believe it’s called the sway bar link (3:40) …. is that something that has to be replaced right away , and can I buy just the rubber boot part and replace it or do I need to replace the entire piece?….. thank you !
Great video except you only show the easy side of the truck that doesn't include the airconditioning line and where you have to cut out the steel wheel well
Factory Toyota manual states "cut the bolt" on vehicles with the bolt head oriented forward. Apparently Toyota finally figured out that installing the bolt in the opposite direction before dropping the body on the chassis is a better plan. Obviously, replace the cut off bolt.I haven't done this myself yet, but it appears that when you install this bolt from the opposite direction you will eliminate the body interference going back together. I gotta say, I'm continuously UNimpressed by the design of this truck ('06 4x4 TRD Access Cab). Designed by committees who didn't talk to each other! This bolt direction is one example. The placement of the brake lines, necessitating moving them to just remove this bolt (even when it's installed in the "correct" orientation) is another. Small changes would have resulted in much greater servicability. These dumb little things show an absence of coordination between design teams. Disappointing (in comparison to my '86-1/2 first year Nissan Hardbody King Cab 4x4, which is so thoughtfully designed in comparison).
How do you know they are torqued exactly at 83ft/lbs when you used an impact gun to tighten them 1st? You only know that they are at least 83ft/lbs because of your torque wrench. I've never tightened my wheels with a gun. Tighten by hand and then torqued to spec. Most mechanics tighten by gun and end up being over torqued.
I thought about that when I did mine but the concern is that if the nut were to come off, the bolt would would be very likely to drop out and that would be catastrophic at any speed. Since you have to pry the metal back a bit anyway, it's already set and easy to remove if you were to have to replace again.
nice. i was about ready to bring to dealer for this one. looks like this truck was not maintained. i pant my frame every year and keep it clean to prevent rust
Can you just install a ball joint instead of a new arm . I know on my 2003 Ford 150 you can't just install the ball joints you got to buy the control arm
That hydrolic metal brake line is in an aweful spot. Drive over and kick up a tree branch or rock & and you will be without brakes plus talk about rust. Shit spot for it
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You're supposed to just tighten, but not torque the UCA through bolt. Then you torque the ball joint and connect everything else back up. Then you're supposed to drop it back down to settle the UCA bushings before torquing the through bolt. This is impossible when the wheel is on, so you can simulate by using the jack under the LCA up and down a few times to make sure the UCA bushings aren't in any bind when you torque them down
Hands down the best group of how to videos I always look for you guys before any one else
Hey buddy, very helpful and informative video. We knocked both sides out in about 90 minutes and made it look easy. I’ll always pay it forward to send folks your way.
Your videos are fantastic. Just used this and the shock replacement videos to redo my own suspension. Thanks for the heads up on the sheetmetal bending to get the long UCA bolt out!
Great video Clear instruction noticed my lower ball joint boot was torn now I don’t feel so worried knowing I can do this repair myself!
This was so good! Now I understand why I'm paying what the local guy is charging me to do this work and I don't feel so bad. And my undercarriage is at least as rusty as this one!
+Michael O'Neill Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Right! I was recently quoted $1250 to replace the UCA’s and I am over trying to figure out if I can do it myself for cheaper lol but I think I’m going to leave this one to the pro
I thought you weren't supposed to torque anything with a bushing inside when its not under load since it will be pinched when getting the car back on the ground.
I am doing my homework so I can rebuild the whole front suspension on my 05 taco. Front coilovers, upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar connect, and lastly the rear shocks, the leaf springs were replace not too long ago my Toyota recall. Woooo never done something this much so I'm planning this out and hopefully no bolts snap. 🙏🏻.
Nice dam job. Love videos that don’t drag on and are very descriptive and to the point. I came to see how the long control arm bolt came out. I pulled the cab off the frame to do it.
y'all definitely have the best videos
Great video. Informative and easy to follow. My question is what was the symptom indicating that there UCA needed to be replaced?
Torque bolts after you load the suspension. For the sake of the rubber bushings under load. Real mechanic told me that one lol your welcome.
This is true, but the UCA on the Tacomas are pretty much horizontal on stock ride height, where he torqued it at 5:40 seems to be good to where it wont bind when the weight is on the suspension. once the wheels are on its kind of difficult to torque that nut.
I thought anything with a rubber bushing needed to be torqued down with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension, to prevent premature failure.
Correct
Solid content guys!! Appreciate the production value!
I just replaced my upper control arms on my 13 Tacoma myself. It's not nearly as easy as it seems in these videos.
Great video, clear explanation and process. One question why yes to antisize on bolt but not on the threads?
So the but doesn't back off while you're driving anti seize on threads would make it easy for this to happen
Fellow technician. Good video.
You made it looks so easy, you should come over and replace mine.
"torqued" lol. fire. thanks for the video. im at the dealership now getting my lower control arms replaced and this was helpful in understanding what they are doing.
A car wash beforehand is very helpful.
Hi, thank you for your videos ,.. I recently noticed the rubber bushing is torn on my ….. I believe it’s called the sway bar link (3:40) …. is that something that has to be replaced right away , and can I buy just the rubber boot part and replace it or do I need to replace the entire piece?….. thank you !
Entire piece and they are dirt cheap
Great video good information for the beginners like me , with my Tacoma 2005
I love your videos man thanks
Great video except you only show the easy side of the truck that doesn't include the airconditioning line and where you have to cut out the steel wheel well
What about the passenger side where there’s no clearance to get the upper control arm bolt out. (2011 Tacoma)
Factory Toyota manual states "cut the bolt" on vehicles with the bolt head oriented forward. Apparently Toyota finally figured out that installing the bolt in the opposite direction before dropping the body on the chassis is a better plan. Obviously, replace the cut off bolt.I haven't done this myself yet, but it appears that when you install this bolt from the opposite direction you will eliminate the body interference going back together. I gotta say, I'm continuously UNimpressed by the design of this truck ('06 4x4 TRD Access Cab). Designed by committees who didn't talk to each other! This bolt direction is one example. The placement of the brake lines, necessitating moving them to just remove this bolt (even when it's installed in the "correct" orientation) is another. Small changes would have resulted in much greater servicability. These dumb little things show an absence of coordination between design teams. Disappointing (in comparison to my '86-1/2 first year Nissan Hardbody King Cab 4x4, which is so thoughtfully designed in comparison).
Very well done video.
How do you know they are torqued exactly at 83ft/lbs when you used an impact gun to tighten them 1st? You only know that they are at least 83ft/lbs because of your torque wrench. I've never tightened my wheels with a gun. Tighten by hand and then torqued to spec. Most mechanics tighten by gun and end up being over torqued.
Very helpful, thank you!
+Lonczakt Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Can you flip the mounting bolt for easier removal next time?
I thought about that when I did mine but the concern is that if the nut were to come off, the bolt would would be very likely to drop out and that would be catastrophic at any speed. Since you have to pry the metal back a bit anyway, it's already set and easy to remove if you were to have to replace again.
If i put this on my 05 tundra will it mess up my alignment? If so will it drive to alignment shop without messing up tires or?
Im putting a rancho 2 lift and a 1/2 inch spacer total 3 inches lift
What would happen if you connect the sway bar link, before torquing the UCA nut?
Great video except I think the only one using the camera's microphone was the impact gun..
thanks for the content, btw that is a nasty rusty 2nd gen Tacoma!! so sorry you had to wrench on that rust bucket. 🤣
I'm having a problem with mine. The bolt on top is slightly more out of the panel so it would be hard to bend it.
nice. i was about ready to bring to dealer for this one. looks like this truck was not maintained. i pant my frame every year and keep it clean to prevent rust
+Derek Macdonald Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Why didn't you put load on the upper control arm?
Can you just install a ball joint instead of a new arm . I know on my 2003 Ford 150 you can't just install the ball joints you got to buy the control arm
Get some sway bar bushings in that thing.
Why does it look so easy but when a try to do it myself it's a pain??
Poor engineering on Toyota's part. Bending the body metal to get the main bolt out? C'mon Toyota - you are better than this!
undercoating is not gona help that crusty pup
That hydrolic metal brake line is in an aweful spot. Drive over and kick up a tree branch or rock & and you will be without brakes plus talk about rust. Shit spot for it
where are you? every truck you do is covered in rust!!!!