How to Replace Lower Ball Joints on a 2000-2007 Toyota Sequoia/Tundra
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- Опубликовано: 4 дек 2024
- Part Numbers:
43340-39356 lower ball joint
43330-39466 lower ball joint
90080-10066 lower ball joint bolts
Torque Specs:
103 ft-lbs (lower ball joint to control arm nut)
59 ft-lbs (lower ball joint to steering knuckle bolts)
67 ft-lbs (outer tie rod to ball joint nut)
81 ft-lbs (wheel)
Great repair and sage advice to use OEM parts rather than aftermarket trash. Nice tip on cotter pin rotation.
Thank you!
The difference between oem ball joints and aftermarket ones is the oem doesnt come with a grease port. Most common cause of fail....
Not doing common truck bal joint maintainance every 3 to 4 years (grease or change anyway)
Oem doesnt have a grease port, therefore they're the common ones that fail
Aftermarket has a grease port, therefore fail less often
Every video or pic I see of a failure, oem without grease
I have MOOG on my Sequoia for the last 150,000miles and still going!! Moog is a great alternative.
I only keep a set of MOOG lbjs as backup while I'm wheeling. Other than that, OEM lbjs are what I used.
omg was just about to amazon some moogs... now will go oem.. thanks..
Your video quality was superb my friend
You do nice work !! Thanks for the video. Moog use to be very good parts years back..
Thank you! Yeah, the quality isn’t what it used to be.
Just had a moog upper SHEAR OFF after ~20k. Was turning onto my street coming home. Im blessed tho...coulda been a seriously much worse scenario.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
I bought my OEM ball joints from Ourisman Toyota (no longer McGeorge Toyota) for 116.00 each(listed price 172.00ea). They were for my 2003 Tundra.
Edit: bought on 10 Apr 2024
Can they be order from any dealership? Is there a reason everyone goes to that one?
@mterrazas145 I tried my Toyota and they were expensive, but for some reason, Ourisman is just cheaper.
I also ordered from Ourisman Toyota.
They have the best price
Did you call them to order? Online price isn’t that great compared with other prices I’m seeing.
So I did my inner out tie rods and I counted the threads on both sides when doing of course and they both read 20 turns per say anyway long story short I put it all back and put the tires on and it seems as if one side is off center in regards to the tire it’s sticking out further than the other side so I’m assuming the camber is off somehow it was sitting on 2in strut spacers which I’ll be putting back on too see if that fixes the problem but it kind of seems as if it technically wouldn’t so my question is can the tie rod ends be different aka on the tightening for example can one side be 20 and the other 15 or so because if the spacer doesn’t fix the problem that’s going to be next thing I try any help
Are those the Re-called Moog Ball Joints?
Thanks for the video
Great job
What part of this world is your shop ?
Grease needle, later in 40,000 you can use one to insert grease into the greaseless ball joint. Longer life.
There are videos on how to do this. Myself I try to go under the rubber boot on the joint.
Great video 😊
A lot of owners are oem only. I noticed the moog had a grease fitting and oem didn’t. Do you think it would have lasted had it been greased?
I bought the 555 ball joints for my truck.
I ordered 555 SB3806 the sankie non-greasable ones from japan and installed it on oct 2018. Mine is the 90 series land cruiser prado with that same ball joints. No plays till today. Ball joints don't just pop out without tell tale signs like squeaking when turning the steering or clunking when braking or hitting bumps.
Jack, what's your thoughts on the sankei 555 brand? have you dealt with them much? I know oem is the best option but the little bit of research I've down it seemed as if they are a better product than moog's but not quite to par with oem's. I also like that the 555's are greasable. They're from japan rather than china like the moog's (if that makes a difference)
I've heard that 555 is the 2nd best that you can get. Honestly go OEM. Ball joints are notorious on this generation of Sequoia and Tundra. Do it right the first time and not worry about it for another 200k
The ball joints you listed will not fit Tundra/Sequoia made after 09/2003. They were redesigned (larger) and require a different P/N.
What's the PN, I just bought an 06 sequaio and wanted to replace them before I drive them around.
WOW! what a great job yes indeed aftermaket lower ball joint is not recommend and i agree
OEM toyota parts . My toyota tundra 2003 special edition terminator i changed them with aftermarket and last 2 years sorry guys but put OEM and on 2024 they still hanging on since the last change 2015
Great job ❤️🖤💚💛
I ordered trq ball joints cant afford the 400 at the moment for toyota ones(thats what they told me at toyota just for the parts) but ill replace them when i can afford it for sure doing the work myself so not too big of a hit with labor
Toyota changed ball joint size mid year (August) 2003, same for brakes. Also I can't understand why Toyota doesn't have factory grease fittings.
Because average Joe won't bother greasing them, and greasable joints last longer ONLY if greased. A sealed unit will last longer if you don't ever grease them. The sealed units use a nylon or Teflon cup instead of the metal one the greasable ones use.
Awesome video
Thank you!
you need to pull the rubber boot on the new ball joint and load it with grease as they didn't put a grease like moog did
Can you do one one the upper ball joints with it still on the truck
you can but its kind of a pain using the c-clamp style press. if you have one of those fancy clamshell style presses it would actually be pretty easy probably. taking the spindle off isn't bad really, i did the upper on my passenger side last week and it took me about an hour or so.
I cannot separate the piece with the 4 bolts from the tire rod. I wish I could send you a picture thks
Terrace
Well done!!
What's R for? 🤔
Toyota told I need bolts 90105A0187, does this look wrong?
Im not having any luck getting the tie rod end to break free from the ball joint assembly. I’ve been beating on it and hit it with wd40 in hopes that would work. Any other suggestions?
Just get the tie rod and and ball joint separator it’s like 20 bucks it’ll get it done
Get a bigger hammer. Advice given to me a long time ago. It can work wonders
No thread lock?
No, not for these bolts.
No grease for the factory ball joints?
Toyota stuff is sealed. They go a really long time though
With sequoia lbj's, it's never "buy once cry once"
I never understand the push to put OEM LBJ’s back in these trucks. It’s obviously a design flaw that causes these to fail in the first place. I’m all for Toyota OEM parts when it makes sense but this one makes zero sense to me. The OEM joints are not good. That’s why they fail constantly. At least most of the aftermarket LBJ’s have a grease port which seems like a huge miss by Toyota on the OEM joint. OEM is not a permanent fix in this case. OEM or aftermarket, you WILL be replacing them again within 100k miles. 🤷♂️
I used moog and had failure within about 4 months. I looked at a different moog box and it was a different part. I mean same part but bolts were different and other variances. I heard there was a copy of the moog imitation thing from china junk. Idk. I'd stay oem when possible.
Yeah, I’ve seen that happen many times, especially with aftermarket suspension parts. For example, I’ll order left and right control arms. Same brand, same boxes, but the parts inside are visibly different. As time goes on, I’m becoming more and more convinced that OEM parts are the way to go with any make of car.
Had a lbj failure in my LC prado 90 series that has the same ball joint. I ordered the upgraded sankie SB3806 (non-greasable with plastic ball seat)from japan. I did the replacement in 2018 and its still hold solid today. I don't think this system is meant to be greasable. A thin layer of grease between metals is not going to manage the tremendous forces of impact this bj goes through continuosly. A special plastic seat is needed to absorb the impacts. Whether oem or aftermarket regular checks for play will keep you safe. Lbj don't just fail without tell tale signs. Clunking when braking, squeaking when turning and vague steering that refuses to centre are things to watch out for.
@@hokz7283 mine were squeaking after install. I even attempted to grease them and found out they could not be because they did not have fittings so I injected grease in the boots. Still failed. I was surprised they were squeaking being brand new and all.
@@headpainter1 the sankie sb3806 can be rotated by hands when new. Its not tight and jerky like some other aftermarket ones that needs force. This one is smooth to rotate.. like cutting cheese. Just a week back i replaced my right cv. I checked the lbj it had become looser to rotate than when new, i was quite worried. After installing and while still on the jack, i immediately put a pry bar between the ball joint and the control arm and did the leverage test. No play at all. Did the same the other side it was all tight. I had installed it in 2018. I am not saying this is better than oem but it has worked for me. I am from the foothills of the Himalayas in far northeast india. We don't have good roads too like in the mainland. So it has taken a beating.
@@hokz7283 well that's interesting. I appreciate your feedback as well as probably several other readers, My fears would have been the same with the plastic and the impacts of off-road driving. That's a lot of weight on a plastic or synthetic part. I use to buy a lot of aftermarket which is not worth it anymore. Quality has been non existent. Now I rebuild my factory starters and alternators if I can locate the kits and brushes. Seems they are hiding this information from us in the USA anyway.
I'm glad you're having good service with them.