I use a 2-sided guide, but set up for both the narrow and wide sides of my circ saw. A router on this guide only works.for whatever bit you used to create it so we make separate guides for the router - one side for 23/32 plywood bit and the other for a 7/32 plywood bit - that’s what we use to build most cabinets A pair of spring clamps holds a saw guide like made here perfectly, is way faster and more versatile bc you don’t have clamps hanging down. We use a 1” sheet of sacrificial foam cut 4” shorter and 4” narrower than a 4x8 sheet so the bottom of the spring clamp has room. Set the blade to cut 1/8” into the foam.
Question - Great idea - but it seems the max thickness you can cut is around 3/4" material. Have you thought about using the narrow side of the saw base allowing the motor to be free from guide? Just curious - thanks, Larry
Larry, I oriented the base to mostly ride the hardboard body in order to make the cuts as stable as possible. The saw base is less likely to tilt during cutting in this position. But yes, the motor can overhang the cleat and that may limit the max depth of cut. You can simply turn the saw around and re-cut the hardboard to use it that way if you wish. That is the best part of making your own jigs and tools; you can do it your own way.
Thanks for your feedback. I think, rather than using one of the sides for the router, I will use one side for the narrow part of the saw base and one side for the wider side of the saw base. That way, if the need arises to cut thicker material, the saw & this jig can be used. BTW - I am a total MATCHFIT guy!! Everything I make (JIGS and workbenches) has the dovetail grooves! - Many thanks, Larry
The router guide edge will only be accurate if you are using the same diameter bit you originally set it up with. If you use a bit in the router with a different diameter, the edge of the guide will no longer be an accurate edge to use when aligning it with the workpiece.
Thomas, the best part about making your own jigs is that you can build to suit your needs! The reason for this set up is so that the edge of the guide is set exactly on the cut line for both saw and router. No need to figure offsets, just set to your marks.
I use a 2-sided guide, but set up for both the narrow and wide sides of my circ saw. A router on this guide only works.for whatever bit you used to create it so we make separate guides for the router - one side for 23/32 plywood bit and the other for a 7/32 plywood bit - that’s what we use to build most cabinets
A pair of spring clamps holds a saw guide like made here perfectly, is way faster and more versatile bc you don’t have clamps hanging down. We use a 1” sheet of sacrificial foam cut 4” shorter and 4” narrower than a 4x8 sheet so the bottom of the spring clamp has room. Set the blade to cut 1/8” into the foam.
Great solution. Would love to see the plans, but it looks like they are no longer available on Microjig's site.
Ben, they are there: Use this link, (www.microjig.com/projects) then click on the "MATCHFIT" filter. You can find the plan more easily on that page.
@@Microjig sure enough! You rock. Thanks for the quick reply.
@@benjenkins2415 No Worries, enjoy!
Question - Great idea - but it seems the max thickness you can cut is around 3/4" material. Have you thought about using the narrow side of the saw base allowing the motor to be free from guide? Just curious - thanks, Larry
Larry, I oriented the base to mostly ride the hardboard body in order to make the cuts as stable as possible. The saw base is less likely to tilt during cutting in this position.
But yes, the motor can overhang the cleat and that may limit the max depth of cut.
You can simply turn the saw around and re-cut the hardboard to use it that way if you wish. That is the best part of making your own jigs and tools; you can do it your own way.
Thanks for your feedback. I think, rather than using one of the sides for the router, I will use one side for the narrow part of the saw base and one side for the wider side of the saw base. That way, if the need arises to cut thicker material, the saw & this jig can be used. BTW - I am a total MATCHFIT guy!! Everything I make (JIGS and workbenches) has the dovetail grooves! - Many thanks, Larry
@@EEEZSolutionS sounds like a plan!
The router guide edge will only be accurate if you are using the same diameter bit you originally set it up with. If you use a bit in the router with a different diameter, the edge of the guide will no longer be an accurate edge to use when aligning it with the workpiece.
More utility with the router if the width were set with a large diameter template guide instead of the router bit itsel.
Thomas, the best part about making your own jigs is that you can build to suit your needs!
The reason for this set up is so that the edge of the guide is set exactly on the cut line for both saw and router.
No need to figure offsets, just set to your marks.
Another benefit for the saw might be less chip out given the support of the board.
I started with Woodglut plans.
A festool tracksaw is only like $655 more, stop being a bunch of cheapskates.