I’ve just bought a 2002 GMC with 256,832 miles on it and two days in the pump had started to leak. Your video of this job, is a great tool and aid in getting it done. Thank you
Hey thanks for the insider tips. Information is a powerful thing. I am a Senior Master Ford tech and have done my fair share of 6.0 & 6.4 Powerstroke stuff, but have NEVER worked on a Chevy Duramax...until today. I watched both of your water pump videos a couple of times and had my laptop standing by and I just finished a pump on a 6.6 in 3.1hours. Your tips and how to are dealership quality. Thanks a bunch...all you need now is a donate button. If you ever need Ford intel, hit me up! Thanks!
Don't forget that one 12mm nut on the back of the WP flange...I have the battle scars to prove it going up underneath of the truck to get at it. lol This video helped a hell of a lot, , I didn't do a vlog on my experience because my 85 year old father was helping and I would of had to bleep out what he thought of working on vehicles made in the last 20 years. Thanks for posting it Brian
Brian, You're a LIFE SAVER! I took my truck to my mechanic, he was scared off by the amount of labor and special tools required. I found your video and decided it wouldn't be that bad. I got the Lisle 22100 tool from O'Reilly, overnight. AutoZone doesn't carry it (but may soon since the counter guy was quite torqued that they didn't have one to sell me!). Without your video I would have fought with the Fan for hours, That was a Great Tip! Going to finish pulling the pump tomorrow. Thanks Again!!
Brian, thanks for taking the time to create the video. Your direction to pull the left inner fender to access the two bolts on the coolant pipe is excellent, but I might add if the truck is a 2WD, you can access the bolts from underneath (since there isn't a front differential). Also, while changing the coolant pump, it is probably a good idea to have a new 4 inch long 3/8 ID hose for the coolant tube. Also, possibly buy the O-rings for the tubes. Finally, you can change both T-stats now.
Hey brian, thanks for the help, I am am automotive student and found this video last night, it sped my repair process up termendously. As for the tensioner pulley it actually takes a 1/2" drive ratchet not a 3/8" drive ratchet.
I had to do two of these since Thursday. The first one was a 01 2500hd Silverado and it was easy thanks to your video. Today I did a 06 Savannah 2500 Van, that one was a bit of a pain. Just no room to work. Still got it done in about 3.5 hours.
Thanks for the video! It helped tremendously. Just changed out my water pump, both thermostats, and my fuel pressure regulator in my 2004 LB7 Duramax. Definitely not easy but got it done in a couple days and saved around $1500 from my estimate. Thanks again!
Thanks for the great video. I dreaded starting this job but your video helped me a great deal. Having large hands, I found those two backsde nuts to be the worse part of the teardown. I removes that 3” pipe for better access and got the outside nut off without too much trouble. That inside nut was a real challenge. I finally got it by getting underneath and using the 12 mm 6pt socket with about 18 inches of extensions and reaching in from well back where there was more room to get access. Because the nuts were well rusted, i tapped the extensions and socket onto the nut and was able to break it free. So far, this was the biggest hiccup. Awaiting new pump and housing along with flywheel tool from amazon. Don’t foresee any other issues. Thanks for the video.
Hey Brian. Just wanted to say thanks for the video and the layout of what to do's and whatnot. Without it I might have had some difficulty. As for shortening a few steps and making it easier and not to mention quicker I thought I'd share a few shortcuts that proved efficient. First, the fan. Creative tool with the tpost. I'd recommend, if you have air and if you're tackling a project of this magnitude I'd recommend using air tools. Use an air chisel with a small spade and one trigger pull, the clutch fan breaks free with ease. Second, I'm sure the starter removal and bind the flywheel proved to be easy, we'll somewhat, I chose a different approach that worked easier. Few extra bolts and air to air removal of the radiator and intercooler made this job a he'll of a lot easier. Made room too get a 1 inch impact with a 1 1/2 socket to remove the 300 ft lb torqued harmonic balancer off without a problem. The extra room made the removal of the housing of the water pump so easy, I was impressed. Took the job rating difficulty from a C: difficult, to a moderate B. The by book time 6.5 hour job turned to a mere 2.8. Hope this helps out more inclined RUclips mechanics to take future projects into their own hands.
Thank you so much for putting this out there. It wasnt an easy job but I feel the average Joe can do it by watching your video. Hardest part was the harmonic balancer, I broke two different harbor freight breaker bars but luckily they had lifetime warranty on them and they honored the return. The key was to barrow a snap-on breaker bar and put a ton of muscle into it and bam! All good!!! Thank you! You da man!!!
+Robert Rice Way to go Rob!! You da man!!! People who see it through and don't give up such as yourself know the satisfaction that comes from winning through perseverance. I LOVE THAT!
I also broke a harbor garbage breaker bar... went to the 40 year old craftsman and got it done. helped having a buddy hit it with a hammer also for the impact effect lol
My turn tomorrow night - the video is great! I ordered the lisle tool. Should be here tomorrow. Last week I was ready to pay a mechanic $1200 to do the job, now I'm gonna do it myself for under $100! And while I'm in there I can fix the washer hose that's leaking. Thanks!
This video and Brian's followup made this job a relative snap! Is it a PITA? Yes! But Brian got all the details so that there were very few surprises. The only things I'd mention are: if you buy the Lisle tool (and I'd recommend it - it's a day away with Amazon) is that you need a 3/4" breaker bar(the socket is 3/4" drive). And - when you put the thermostat bypass pipe on, ensure that you have a NEW O-ring (not included with the water pump) and that you RTV the heck out of it. I had my job finished, added 3 gallons of antifreeze, and sure enough, it started leaking. RTV and a NEW o-ring the next morning and I was underway. Thanks Brain, and a HuGE thanks to whoever decided RUclips instruction videos were a good idea! They are a great thing!!!
This video worked just like he said! BUY THE FLYWHEEL TOOL, especially if your working alone, and get yourself a long pipe to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. If I had not had a friend helping it would have been near impossible to keep the flywheel from moving while I was on top of the engine backing off the bolt. It took a "cheater pipe" almost 5 ft. long to break it loose w a 1/2 in. drive on the 36 mm socket. Great video, saved me about $550 over having it done in a repair shop.
To remove the fan clutch I have a matco 25" or so impact chisel on the end of my air impact hammer. A 1/4 second trigger burst is all it takes and no busted knuckles from missing your chisel. :) Been using this method for about 15 years now. Oh forgot to say. Great video.
Awesome help Brian. When I went to Napa to order parts they said most dealers just brace the breaker bar and bump the Starter to loosen Harmonic B Bolt. I was a bit unsure on that, and the fact you still have to torque going back. SO The flywheel lock tool works great. I sprayed the Fan nut and Harmonic B bolt with Penetrant prior and I have a air chisel/hammer that I ratattatted both a cpl then each came loose without major issues.
Pure brilliance with the chisel. I could not figure out how to hold the pulley still while using a wrench - cam in, did a search, found your video - had the clutch off in less than 5 minutes. I didn't see any of the other guys showing that trick - absolutely fantastic. Now I've got to address the 36mm 12 point socket!
If I'm understanding you correctly it's the one with the O-ring on it. That O-ring can easily be cut if it goes in dry. It hangs up and sheers off. So I use a product called slipkote aquaplex 524. You could use most any silicone based lubricant and it will work. It makes that little 0-ring slip in instead of hanging up and getting cut.
Thank you, another great video. The only issue I had was the harmonic balancer bolt. The socket tool Lisle sells is for a half inch ratchet, I broke my breaker bar, and two half inch ratchets trying to remove it. I ended up using my 3/4 ratchet and a socket that kind of fit, luckily it worked. Other than that the only issue I had was a crimped o-ring that leaked. All said and done, this was a great video and saved me hundreds.
the most hopeful video I've ever followed and what a complicated task it was! thanks for getting me through it! you made $1,000 appraisal from a shop turn into a $160 plus labor and knowledge out of this video!
About to get my first LB7 and the guy said I had to replace the water pump and add a delete kit on it... Glad I found where TF the water pump is lol. Thank you for this video!
For the fan clutch, I tried the chisel method, an air chiisel, a fan clutch holding tool (pulley holder), even tried to make a holding tool out of angle iron with grade 8 bolts and nothing would free that fan clutch. Angle iron kept bending and bots breaking. Finally, I went to Ace hardware and they had a pulley holding wrench with piece of motorcycle chain that wrapped around the pulley. Wrapped that sucker around the pulley and wedged the handle against the power steering pully, then used a giant adjustable wrench with a 3 foot piece of pipe to extend.... and it finally broke free. Thanks for the tips in the video. Making it so much easier.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to film. Think you did a great job. Most people don’t realize how hard it is to film and light and talk and wrench at the same time. Keep up the good work. Subbed
Brian, Thanks for the awesome help with changing my 2003 Duramax WP. The fan bolt trick (the chisel), was awesome! Getting the Lislee tool was the best money spent, as saving time removing the starter was huge. Only critique would be to talk about the tube that bolts to the top of the WP housing and goes north towards what is normally the Tstat area. It's best to get a couple of the O rings that fit on top of this tube, it gets torn easily manuevering it into place, or a trick how to fit pipe in
Awesome video! I used the Lisle kit that comes w. the 36mm 12point and 2 adapters that just slide in the trans where its notched @ the bottom. If you have access to a smoke machine, I suggest you smoke it first after you're done. Its easy, fast, and sure saves a lot of coolant if you have a problem.
Great info...replaced mine with no problem with these great tips... to get the fan off, I applied pressure to the belt (via belt tensioner) and used a pipe wrench and cheater pipe to break it loose... worked great instead of chiseling. Ratchet wrench is definite time saver. If you don't have the metric 36mm socket convert to inches.. 36mm = 127⁄64in... a 1 7/16-12 point socket worked well (a little loose, but not enough to slip and strip) cost - $68 parts at Advance auto vs $1000 at dealer
I broke two of my 1/2 inch breaker bars on the harmonic balancer. I always seem to break at least one removing the crank pulley on any vehicle. My solution was to use the 3/4” breaker bar I went and bought after breaking the two 1/2” breaker bars, and using the 36mm 3/4” socket that was included in my 22100 kit I found and ordered off of Ebay for $22 ahead of time. It was obvious my water pump had been changed at some point. I believe a good point to examine for a leak may be the tube o ring where it come from engine into top front of the water pump. Upon disassembly I believe it was leaking here from last “install” from previous owners. Replacing the whole nonetheless. Great video here btw
hay im usen my daughters account. i wanted to thank you for the tips on the duramax water pump video. helped alot. one thing i didnt do was romove the tire an inner fender. that shaved off more time. I also put a double o ring on water tube at the thermo housing . this was my first one and no leaks. did it in about two an three quarters time.
I'm next! I have a 2005 with a Duramax that has the same leak. I was hoping it was just the radiator hose, but no...here we go. Thanks for the video, this will help.
Just watched the vid and WOW, what a job. That's the kind of stuff that would kinda scare somebody, LOL!! I would've never known there was that much involved in the R&R of a Duramax WP. It was something I'd never seen before.
Have a 2000 Silverado with a water leak; thought it was a weep hole on the water pump but changed the water pump and still loosing water; checked all clamps and hoses; no leaks! Also checked oil dip stick for water intrusion or increase in volume; once again, no issue. Thanks!
My 2006 Duramax 3500 Silverado just had the coolant leak and used this video to replace the pump. Wanted to add some comments about the 2006 Duramax....both the LLY and the LBZ can exist in 2006. After 2006.5 use LTZ parts. Credit Merchant Automotive. I used their pump replacement kit which includes seals and flywheel lock (p/n 10543). Also purchased the ARP crank bolt SKU 129-2503, and the crank socket which is 3/4" drive. Some difference in your video that the LBZ has......fan guard has to come out with the fan and has 3 perimeter bolts. Driver's side fan guard bracket needs to come off to get to the rear inside pump nut. Also best to take off boost tube on driver's side. Harmonic dampener took a while to come off. Patience is all I can say. Reassembly is easier but difficult without taking a rest break. Great job on the video. Was a big help. Thanks!
Great job on the video Brian was intimidated by this job but I gotta say all your tips really helped , thanks a million or for sure eight or nine hundred that I got to keep ! Look forward to more great tips in the future . Bill
This helped out so much. Thanks man. As far as a special tool to hold crank shaft. I just used a pry bar shoved inside the tranny inspection window and had it wedged and held by say the torsion bar and on engine side long ass cheater bar with the 12 36mm socket and bam. Thanks
Hey Brian, thanks for the video. How did you know the water pump is bad was it leaking and if it does leak where does it go to or doesn’t spray all over the place etc. I’m losing coolant. I can’t figure out where it’s coming from and I replace the reservoir pressure cap because my upper hose was collapsing and I use about a half a gallon of coolant about every 50 miles it.
Thanks had a leak , hoped it was just a clamp . Couldn't tell untill it pressure tested. Then I was like , OH HELL NO ! THEN I KNEW PUMP , BUT Wouldn't SEE A PUMP . WAY COOL VIDEO ! HERO STUFF 😀😎😎🇺🇸🇺🇸💯
hey man this video is awesome... i have an lly duramax but pretty much the same except belt orientation. dealer wanted 800 bucks just for labor and 300 for pump. i bought pump myself and all the tools to do it and comes out to 650 bucks. major savings. thx for the video dude was very helpful.my only worry is getting that beast of a bolt out, i got a 40 in breaker so hopefully it works.
I saw some videos on how to change the headgaskets on a Duramax and it involved taking the cab off the truck. Glad I don't have to foot the bill for something like that!
@briansmobile1 oh it does, providing the nut is not seized on, takes like 5 seconds to pop it loose. on the 07 up, the fan pulley has big holes in it to put a pry bar in to hold the pulley, but the older ones like you worked on should have litlle holes in it for a hold as well, so if the nut is seized use holder, and air wrench and it pops loose, normally all i need is the wrench. i hope to get some vid of doing stuff like that. it cuts alot of time.
Brain, I got it taken care of by putting some copper gasket seal on it and a new O-ring.Its holding up well.Now I have a water leak going into the oil cooler.There is a pipe coming out of that and its dripping bad.I need to remove that pipe I guess and change that o-ring as well.That is the pipe that comes out of the Water pump going under exhaust then into the oil cooler.Not sure what Im doing but I will give it a shot.Thanks again for all input
@Flaheat Duramax is made by Isuzu. If I've learned anything about Isuzu's in the 20+ years I've worked on them it's that they are as different from other Japanese engines as Volkswagens are. They are quite reliable, but have monsterous labor times and procedures. They are especially difficult the first time through and once you have the tricks to them you'll love them..... Because then you make cash on them!
Thanks for the tips. I'm about to attempt changing my water pump. I have 370,000 miles on my 6.6 and thought it a good idea to change the housing as well. What is your opinion for that ? Thanks Robert
It was awesome that you are so detailed in this. Those little things really help. Most videos leave out some very important things and just move to the next step but you don't. Great job and thank you. I do have a problem though. After we were all done the pipe that goes up from the water pump housing is leaking horribly. We did not replace the o-ring and are going to take the truck back apart tomorrow to replace that. Have you had this problem???
im about to tackle it right now,wish me luck and this video helps and i also have that leslie tool so that shoul help.thanx and i will let you know how it went.
13.00 ALWAYS throw at least a tac weld on both sides of the internal shaft. the wheels are just pressed on and can spin and fail. Companies sell the stock pump already welded but its double the cost of stock. just throw a weld on the seam.
Thanks for the in depth video? Brian, are the newer cummins easier to work on than the Duramax? I am looking at a diesel, but want to get one that I can work on. Thanks for everything.
@PWRSTR0KER2008 The more you do the easier they get. One trick is to pull the inspection plate off the bottom of the bell housing and put a long pry bar across the torque converter to brace instead of pulling the starter. Not for a first timer though.
Brian please tell me from what direction you went to get to the inside (passenger side) rear nut for the pump and what tools you used. I can only imagine standing underneath it in a shop while it's up on a lift and having specialty tools to reach up to it. I do not want to take the nuts off the front of the pump if I don't know what I can do to get this one off the back and then back onto it again. Also many people are saying they have problems with the O-ring seal at the top end of the pipe from the water pump housing to the thermostat housing.
I was unsuccessful breaking the fan bolt loose using a chisel/hammer so decided to drill a small hole into the belt pulley on the chamfered side. I was then able to put a small screwdriver in this hole to hold the pulley while breaking the fan loose with a large wrench. This worked VERY well. For those with trucks well over 300k, you might need to remove the fan this way also.
Good video Brian. You asked for tips in the responses and I have one. I was a professional mechanic for 30 years and I will share my tip for removing those stubborn mechanical fan nuts. I use a decent quality air hammer that has a variable trigger and a semi blunted 12” chisel bit. I blunted the tip enough that it won’t try to cut it in half but still sharp enough to put a little bite mark. Used the same procedure you show. Make a bite mark then angel the bit to provide rotational torque. Using variable trigger I start easy and add a little more trigger until I start to see it move. Try that sometime and you will never do it any another way again.
To do this on a lmm there is an additional fan shroud that has to be removed that adds an hour easy due to bolt location. The shroud bracket also blocks access to the rear facing bolts on the water pump housing. Removing the intercooler intake tube is how I made enough room to work a 12mm wrench in there.
Me and my Dad are doing this job right now. We pulled the radiator and inner cooler radiator and used a 3/4 in. drive impac to get the dampner off.. but like you said there is more than one way to skin a cat..Nice video.
Brian...do you have a link for those pliers that you use. I was able to swap the pump on my duramax and the biggest pain in the rear was those fasteners. I had some that I thought were "kinda" like yours...but it didn't work out that way. Thanks for putting out your videos. Big help!!!
nice video, I have 05 duramax process about the same, belt differant routing, pretty close great job, very helpful thanks for your efforts in making these videos, well done.
use a long breaker bar to reach the frame or floor and bump the starter to break the balancer bolt loose...quick and easy plus you save time removing starter and rigging a stop to hold the engine..works for me
I’ve just bought a 2002 GMC with 256,832 miles on it and two days in the pump had started to leak. Your video of this job, is a great tool and aid in getting it done.
Thank you
Hey thanks for the insider tips. Information is a powerful thing. I am a Senior Master Ford tech and have done my fair share of 6.0 & 6.4 Powerstroke stuff, but have NEVER worked on a Chevy Duramax...until today. I watched both of your water pump videos a couple of times and had my laptop standing by and I just finished a pump on a 6.6 in 3.1hours. Your tips and how to are dealership quality. Thanks a bunch...all you need now is a donate button. If you ever need Ford intel, hit me up! Thanks!
Don't forget that one 12mm nut on the back of the WP flange...I have the battle scars to prove it going up underneath of the truck to get at it. lol This video helped a hell of a lot, , I didn't do a vlog on my experience because my 85 year old father was helping and I would of had to bleep out what he thought of working on vehicles made in the last 20 years. Thanks for posting it Brian
Brian, You're a LIFE SAVER! I took my truck to my mechanic, he was scared off by the amount of labor and special tools required. I found your video and decided it wouldn't be that bad. I got the Lisle 22100 tool from O'Reilly, overnight. AutoZone doesn't carry it (but may soon since the counter guy was quite torqued that they didn't have one to sell me!). Without your video I would have fought with the Fan for hours, That was a Great Tip! Going to finish pulling the pump tomorrow. Thanks Again!!
Brian, thanks for taking the time to create the video. Your direction to pull the left inner fender to access the two bolts on the coolant pipe is excellent, but I might add if the truck is a 2WD, you can access the bolts from underneath (since there isn't a front differential). Also, while changing the coolant pump, it is probably a good idea to have a new 4 inch long 3/8 ID hose for the coolant tube. Also, possibly buy the O-rings for the tubes. Finally, you can change both T-stats now.
Hey brian, thanks for the help, I am am automotive student and found this video last night, it sped my repair process up termendously. As for the tensioner pulley it actually takes a 1/2" drive ratchet not a 3/8" drive ratchet.
This was the best video I found on the 6.6 I do a lot of fords. This was my 1st duramax. Followed the video step by step and beat book time by 4 hours
I had to do two of these since Thursday. The first one was a 01 2500hd Silverado and it was easy thanks to your video. Today I did a 06 Savannah 2500 Van, that one was a bit of a pain. Just no room to work. Still got it done in about 3.5 hours.
Thank you for this video, that crank holding tip was golden!
Thanks for the video! It helped tremendously. Just changed out my water pump, both thermostats, and my fuel pressure regulator in my 2004 LB7 Duramax. Definitely not easy but got it done in a couple days and saved around $1500 from my estimate. Thanks again!
Thanks for the great video. I dreaded starting this job but your video helped me a great deal. Having large hands, I found those two backsde nuts to be the worse part of the teardown. I removes that 3” pipe for better access and got the outside nut off without too much trouble. That inside nut was a real challenge. I finally got it by getting underneath and using the 12 mm 6pt socket with about 18 inches of extensions and reaching in from well back where there was more room to get access. Because the nuts were well rusted, i tapped the extensions and socket onto the nut and was able to break it free. So far, this was the biggest hiccup. Awaiting new pump and housing along with flywheel tool from amazon. Don’t foresee any other issues. Thanks for the video.
Im a Carpenter by trade.i was able to do water pump on 2011 duramax lml in drive way. Because of this video. Thanks alot man
Hey Brian. Just wanted to say thanks for the video and the layout of what to do's and whatnot. Without it I might have had some difficulty.
As for shortening a few steps and making it easier and not to mention quicker I thought I'd share a few shortcuts that proved efficient.
First, the fan. Creative tool with the tpost. I'd recommend, if you have air and if you're tackling a project of this magnitude I'd recommend using air tools. Use an air chisel with a small spade and one trigger pull, the clutch fan breaks free with ease.
Second, I'm sure the starter removal and bind the flywheel proved to be easy, we'll somewhat, I chose a different approach that worked easier.
Few extra bolts and air to air removal of the radiator and intercooler made this job a he'll of a lot easier. Made room too get a 1 inch impact with a 1 1/2 socket to remove the 300 ft lb torqued harmonic balancer off without a problem. The extra room made the removal of the housing of the water pump so easy, I was impressed. Took the job rating difficulty from a C: difficult, to a moderate B.
The by book time 6.5 hour job turned to a mere 2.8. Hope this helps out more inclined RUclips mechanics to take future projects into their own hands.
Thank you so much for putting this out there. It wasnt an easy job but I feel the average Joe can do it by watching your video. Hardest part was the harmonic balancer, I broke two different harbor freight breaker bars but luckily they had lifetime warranty on them and they honored the return. The key was to barrow a snap-on breaker bar and put a ton of muscle into it and bam! All good!!! Thank you! You da man!!!
+Robert Rice Way to go Rob!! You da man!!! People who see it through and don't give up such as yourself know the satisfaction that comes from winning through perseverance. I LOVE THAT!
I also broke a harbor garbage breaker bar... went to the 40 year old craftsman and got it done. helped having a buddy hit it with a hammer also for the impact effect lol
My turn tomorrow night - the video is great! I ordered the lisle tool. Should be here tomorrow. Last week I was ready to pay a mechanic $1200 to do the job, now I'm gonna do it myself for under $100! And while I'm in there I can fix the washer hose that's leaking. Thanks!
This video and Brian's followup made this job a relative snap! Is it a PITA? Yes! But Brian got all the details so that there were very few surprises. The only things I'd mention are: if you buy the Lisle tool (and I'd recommend it - it's a day away with Amazon) is that you need a 3/4" breaker bar(the socket is 3/4" drive). And - when you put the thermostat bypass pipe on, ensure that you have a NEW O-ring (not included with the water pump) and that you RTV the heck out of it. I had my job finished, added 3 gallons of antifreeze, and sure enough, it started leaking. RTV and a NEW o-ring the next morning and I was underway.
Thanks Brain, and a HuGE thanks to whoever decided RUclips instruction videos were a good idea! They are a great thing!!!
This video worked just like he said! BUY THE FLYWHEEL TOOL, especially if your working alone, and get yourself a long pipe to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. If I had not had a friend helping it would have been near impossible to keep the flywheel from moving while I was on top of the engine backing off the bolt. It took a "cheater pipe" almost 5 ft. long to break it loose w a 1/2 in. drive on the 36 mm socket. Great video, saved me about $550 over having it done in a repair shop.
Thanks man, just did mine this morning. Gotta say, after reading all the forums I was scared but it went fairly easy. Thanks
To remove the fan clutch I have a matco 25" or so impact chisel on the end of my air impact hammer. A 1/4 second trigger burst is all it takes and no busted knuckles from missing your chisel. :) Been using this method for about 15 years now.
Oh forgot to say. Great video.
Awesome help Brian.
When I went to Napa to order parts they said most dealers just brace the breaker bar and bump the Starter to loosen Harmonic B Bolt.
I was a bit unsure on that, and the fact you still have to torque going back. SO The flywheel lock tool works great.
I sprayed the Fan nut and Harmonic B bolt with Penetrant prior and I have a air chisel/hammer that I ratattatted both a cpl then each came loose without major issues.
Pure brilliance with the chisel. I could not figure out how to hold the pulley still while using a wrench - cam in, did a search, found your video - had the clutch off in less than 5 minutes. I didn't see any of the other guys showing that trick - absolutely fantastic. Now I've got to address the 36mm 12 point socket!
If I'm understanding you correctly it's the one with the O-ring on it. That O-ring can easily be cut if it goes in dry. It hangs up and sheers off. So I use a product called slipkote aquaplex 524. You could use most any silicone based lubricant and it will work. It makes that little 0-ring slip in instead of hanging up and getting cut.
Most informative video on this replacement. Easy to follow and put into terms I can easily identify and understand. Thank you!
Thank you, another great video. The only issue I had was the harmonic balancer bolt. The socket tool Lisle sells is for a half inch ratchet, I broke my breaker bar, and two half inch ratchets trying to remove it. I ended up using my 3/4 ratchet and a socket that kind of fit, luckily it worked. Other than that the only issue I had was a crimped o-ring that leaked. All said and done, this was a great video and saved me hundreds.
the most hopeful video I've ever followed and what a complicated task it was! thanks for getting me through it! you made $1,000 appraisal from a shop turn into a $160 plus labor and knowledge out of this video!
Emilio Zapatos how long did it take to do the whole job?
You're welcome- good for you for taking initiative!
Great video! 6.6 came into work, thought the "idler pulley" was the water pump 😫. Very helpful
Best truck instruction video yet.
About to get my first LB7 and the guy said I had to replace the water pump and add a delete kit on it... Glad I found where TF the water pump is lol. Thank you for this video!
For the fan clutch, I tried the chisel method, an air chiisel, a fan clutch holding tool (pulley holder), even tried to make a holding tool out of angle iron with grade 8 bolts and nothing would free that fan clutch. Angle iron kept bending and bots breaking. Finally, I went to Ace hardware and they had a pulley holding wrench with piece of motorcycle chain that wrapped around the pulley. Wrapped that sucker around the pulley and wedged the handle against the power steering pully, then used a giant adjustable wrench with a 3 foot piece of pipe to extend.... and it finally broke free. Thanks for the tips in the video. Making it so much easier.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to film. Think you did a great job. Most people don’t realize how hard it is to film and light and talk and wrench at the same time. Keep up the good work. Subbed
Brian, Thanks for the awesome help with changing my 2003 Duramax WP. The fan bolt trick (the chisel), was awesome! Getting the Lislee tool was the best money spent, as saving time removing the starter was huge. Only critique would be to talk about the tube that bolts to the top of the WP housing and goes north towards what is normally the Tstat area. It's best to get a couple of the O rings that fit on top of this tube, it gets torn easily manuevering it into place, or a trick how to fit pipe in
Absolutely 10/10 video brother, exactly how a “how to” video should be done. Very helpful
Excellent as always
Thanks for teaching all who watch, in such a positive manner
Thanks for this! Saves me a bunch in specialty tools as it was a tough bugger. Thanks!
There's another video I did on this job that makes it faster. There's also a tool in the description that makes it way easier.
excellent video... walked me through the process on my LLY. just remember to drain first, save some mess and clean up
Awesome video! I used the Lisle kit that comes w. the 36mm 12point and 2 adapters that just slide in the trans where its notched @ the bottom. If you have access to a smoke machine, I suggest you smoke it first after you're done. Its easy, fast, and sure saves a lot of coolant if you have a problem.
without this video i would have been lost. thx you. now i can do this job with confidence
Great info...replaced mine with no problem with these great tips... to get the fan off, I applied pressure to the belt (via belt tensioner) and used a pipe wrench and cheater pipe to break it loose... worked great instead of chiseling.
Ratchet wrench is definite time saver.
If you don't have the metric 36mm socket convert to inches.. 36mm = 127⁄64in... a 1 7/16-12 point socket worked well (a little loose, but not enough to slip and strip)
cost - $68 parts at Advance auto vs $1000 at dealer
I broke two of my 1/2 inch breaker bars on the harmonic balancer. I always seem to break at least one removing the crank pulley on any vehicle. My solution was to use the 3/4” breaker bar I went and bought after breaking the two 1/2” breaker bars, and using the 36mm 3/4” socket that was included in my 22100 kit I found and ordered off of Ebay for $22 ahead of time.
It was obvious my water pump had been changed at some point. I believe a good point to examine for a leak may be the tube o ring where it come from engine into top front of the water pump. Upon disassembly I believe it was leaking here from last “install” from previous owners. Replacing the whole nonetheless.
Great video here btw
You're welcome! Have fun!
Thank you for 36 mm reminder
I like your pliers you used on fan shroud pins.
I have a set of those pliers I forget I have them.
hay im usen my daughters account. i wanted to thank you for the tips on the duramax water pump video. helped alot. one thing i didnt do was romove the tire an inner fender. that shaved off more time. I also put a double o ring on water tube at the thermo housing . this was my first one and no leaks. did it in about two an three quarters time.
Great tips men I wort at a mechanic shop and this will help me a lot because this will be my project for tomorrow. Thanks bro
I'm next! I have a 2005 with a Duramax that has the same leak. I was hoping it was just the radiator hose, but no...here we go. Thanks for the video, this will help.
+wyattoneable Welcome!
Just watched the vid and WOW, what a job. That's the kind of stuff that would kinda scare somebody, LOL!! I would've never known there was that much involved in the R&R of a Duramax WP. It was something I'd never seen before.
Have a 2000 Silverado with a water leak; thought it was a weep hole on the water pump but changed the water pump and still loosing water; checked all clamps and hoses; no leaks! Also checked oil dip stick for water intrusion or increase in volume; once again, no issue. Thanks!
My 2006 Duramax 3500 Silverado just had the coolant leak and used this video to replace the pump. Wanted to add some comments about the 2006 Duramax....both the LLY and the LBZ can exist in 2006. After 2006.5 use LTZ parts. Credit Merchant Automotive. I used their pump replacement kit which includes seals and flywheel lock (p/n 10543). Also purchased the ARP crank bolt SKU 129-2503, and the crank socket which is 3/4" drive.
Some difference in your video that the LBZ has......fan guard has to come out with the fan and has 3 perimeter bolts. Driver's side fan guard bracket needs to come off to get to the rear inside pump nut. Also best to take off boost tube on driver's side.
Harmonic dampener took a while to come off. Patience is all I can say. Reassembly is easier but difficult without taking a rest break.
Great job on the video. Was a big help. Thanks!
Great job on the video Brian was intimidated by this job but I gotta say all your tips really helped , thanks a million or for sure eight or nine hundred that I got to keep ! Look forward to more great tips in the future . Bill
@mazzmari Thanks- glad you liked it!
Thanks a bunch for this video and the link to the Lisle tool. Mine came with the 36mm 12 point socket also.
If you're good and have a clean catch basin and a paint filter to strain it- none. Drain the radiator at the drain cock first- it will help.
@ltlieu61 It just has two bolts on it. One you get through the wheel well and one from the front.
This helped out so much. Thanks man. As far as a special tool to hold crank shaft. I just used a pry bar shoved inside the tranny inspection window and had it wedged and held by say the torsion bar and on engine side long ass cheater bar with the 12 36mm socket and bam. Thanks
Great explanation Brian. You are a true Rube Goldberg!
Hey Brian, thanks for the video. How did you know the water pump is bad was it leaking and if it does leak where does it go to or doesn’t spray all over the place etc. I’m losing coolant. I can’t figure out where it’s coming from and I replace the reservoir pressure cap because my upper hose was collapsing and I use about a half a gallon of coolant about every 50 miles it.
Thanks had a leak , hoped it was just a clamp . Couldn't tell untill it pressure tested. Then I was like , OH HELL NO ! THEN I KNEW PUMP , BUT Wouldn't SEE A PUMP . WAY COOL VIDEO ! HERO STUFF 😀😎😎🇺🇸🇺🇸💯
hey man this video is awesome... i have an lly duramax but pretty much the same except belt orientation. dealer wanted 800 bucks just for labor and 300 for pump. i bought pump myself and all the tools to do it and comes out to 650 bucks. major savings. thx for the video dude was very helpful.my only worry is getting that beast of a bolt out, i got a 40 in breaker so hopefully it works.
I saw some videos on how to change the headgaskets on a Duramax and it involved taking the cab off the truck. Glad I don't have to foot the bill for something like that!
Great video no matter the camera angle or lighting just in the instructor knowledge
@briansmobile1 oh it does, providing the nut is not seized on, takes like 5 seconds to pop it loose. on the 07 up, the fan pulley has big holes in it to put a pry bar in to hold the pulley, but the older ones like you worked on should have litlle holes in it for a hold as well, so if the nut is seized use holder, and air wrench and it pops loose, normally all i need is the wrench. i hope to get some vid of doing stuff like that. it cuts alot of time.
@candyazzja You're welcome- this reminds me I've got another vid on how to cut the labor in half. I'll get it posted.
Brain,
I got it taken care of by putting some copper gasket seal on it and a new O-ring.Its holding up well.Now I have a water leak going into the oil cooler.There is a pipe coming out of that and its dripping bad.I need to remove that pipe I guess and change that o-ring as well.That is the pipe that comes out of the Water pump going under exhaust then into the oil cooler.Not sure what Im doing but I will give it a shot.Thanks again for all input
@alfabravo98 Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Thx for making everything you do super easy to understand, keep up the good work bro!
@swampthing1954 You're welcome- thanks for the feedback!
@Flaheat Duramax is made by Isuzu. If I've learned anything about Isuzu's in the 20+ years I've worked on them it's that they are as different from other Japanese engines as Volkswagens are. They are quite reliable, but have monsterous labor times and procedures. They are especially difficult the first time through and once you have the tricks to them you'll love them..... Because then you make cash on them!
Hey thanks for the tip to reset oil life Wow flash side steeps where do you get them from? Cheers Alan Australia
@Zmart032 LT1's are sweet! Love'em. They have funky socket drive water pumps that I would love to see on many other applications.
Good call- I've since picked up the Lisle 22100 tool.
Thanks for the tips. I'm about to attempt changing my water pump. I have 370,000 miles on my 6.6 and thought it a good idea to change the housing as well. What is your opinion for that ? Thanks
Robert
It was awesome that you are so detailed in this. Those little things really help. Most videos leave out some very important things and just move to the next step but you don't. Great job and thank you. I do have a problem though. After we were all done the pipe that goes up from the water pump housing is leaking horribly. We did not replace the o-ring and are going to take the truck back apart tomorrow to replace that. Have you had this problem???
Thank you so much. One of the hardest things is working on a vehicle and not knowing what you need.
Brian, this was the best help I could ask for, Thank You.
im about to tackle it right now,wish me luck and this video helps and i also have that leslie tool so that shoul help.thanx and i will let you know how it went.
Thank you Brian!
Will be helping my brother with this job.
Thanks brother, you saved me. Your video helped alot!
Just wanted to say thanks. This video was very helpful.
Welcome Rob!
Duuuude! How the heck did you get that lower starter bolt out?
What year is the one you describe?
13.00 ALWAYS throw at least a tac weld on both sides of the internal shaft. the wheels are just pressed on and can spin and fail. Companies sell the stock pump already welded but its double the cost of stock. just throw a weld on the seam.
Thanx man this was a big help. hopefully ill finish tomorrow
Thanks for the in depth video? Brian, are the newer cummins easier to work on than the Duramax? I am looking at a diesel, but want to get one that I can work on. Thanks for everything.
@PWRSTR0KER2008 The more you do the easier they get. One trick is to pull the inspection plate off the bottom of the bell housing and put a long pry bar across the torque converter to brace instead of pulling the starter. Not for a first timer though.
Hey have you ever replaced the coolant block off plate above the starter? Mine started leaking and I was jw if you need to remove the downpipe?
@xtremecampos You're welcome!
Brian please tell me from what direction you went to get to the inside (passenger side) rear nut for the pump and what tools you used.
I can only imagine standing underneath it in a shop while it's up on a lift and having specialty tools to reach up to it. I do not want to take the nuts off the front of the pump if I don't know what I can do to get this one off the back and then back onto it again.
Also many people are saying they have problems with the O-ring seal at the top end of the pipe from the water pump housing to the thermostat housing.
I was unsuccessful breaking the fan bolt loose using a chisel/hammer so decided to drill a small hole into the belt pulley on the chamfered side. I was then able to put a small screwdriver in this hole to hold the pulley while breaking the fan loose with a large wrench. This worked VERY well. For those with trucks well over 300k, you might need to remove the fan this way also.
Good video Brian.
You asked for tips in the responses and I have one.
I was a professional mechanic for 30 years and I will share my tip for removing those stubborn mechanical fan nuts.
I use a decent quality air hammer that has a variable trigger and a semi blunted 12” chisel bit. I blunted the tip enough that it won’t try to cut it in half but still sharp enough to put a little bite mark. Used the same procedure you show. Make a bite mark then angel the bit to provide rotational torque. Using variable trigger I start easy and add a little more trigger until I start to see it move.
Try that sometime and you will never do it any another way again.
Or u could just get a fan wrench impact set and stop neanderthaling stuff
To do this on a lmm there is an additional fan shroud that has to be removed that adds an hour easy due to bolt location. The shroud bracket also blocks access to the rear facing bolts on the water pump housing. Removing the intercooler intake tube is how I made enough room to work a 12mm wrench in there.
is it recomended to change the housing as well ?
@jakemax04 You're welcome. It's nice to save money AND have some sweet tools afterward.
Me and my Dad are doing this job right now. We pulled the radiator and inner cooler radiator and used a 3/4 in. drive impac to get the dampner off.. but like you said there is more than one way to skin a cat..Nice video.
Brian...do you have a link for those pliers that you use. I was able to swap the pump on my duramax and the biggest pain in the rear was those fasteners. I had some that I thought were "kinda" like yours...but it didn't work out that way. Thanks for putting out your videos. Big help!!!
nice video, I have 05 duramax process about the same, belt differant routing, pretty close great job, very helpful thanks for your efforts in making these videos, well done.
use a long breaker bar to reach the frame or floor and bump the starter to break the balancer bolt loose...quick and easy plus you save time removing starter and rigging a stop to hold the engine..works for me
I broke 2 half inch breaker bars bumpimg the starter.. Maybe a 3/4 breaker will work?
Great video !! Question: I have a 2008 Chevy express 3500 diesel 6.6, do you know if the pump replacement is the same as the one you did?
@krib15king You're welcome!
Thanks for the video!! I have an 06 Duramax with the same problem!
Get the Leslie tool 22100 to lock the flex plate. will be doing mine this weekend o the fun 🤩 ..