Well done! I enjoy your videos, mostly because of your attention to detail. You missed one here but who among us can say they have never miss one - I can't. Regards, David
Panaplex displays are indeed beautiful. I have a few old desktop calculators that use them (a red and an orange one). They always make me smile when I have to do my accounting.
You will need to replace all the electrolytic caps on the analogue pcb as they are always bad, basically replace every electrolytic cap, also the round bridge rectifiers tend to die as well. I’ve done several videos repairing Datron meters.
Yes, I agree that would be best but since good quality(!) caps are rather expensive, I just can't afford to do it as standard practice. I tested the caps in the power supply and they are ok. For now the meter works fine and if it develops issues, I deal with it then.
@@TheHWcave the caps in a row on the analogue pcb are always bad, they are part of the bootstrap circuit and cause issues with readings, agreed the power supply ones could be fine, they are only bad about 50% of the time.
@@TheDefpom Thanks. I will have a look at those. It's true that DATRONs seem to have a lot of issues with caps going bad. I have a 1059 that had a shortened tantalum cap and briefly played with a 1061A that let out magic smoke (another tantalum cap).
Excellent thinking = Remembering to load test the 5V supply and remembering the grounding issues for the battery swap. An excellent repair and workmanship, all around. I wonder if the white stuff might be heat sink paste squeezing through a gap?
You worried about overheating the big cap, but did you leave that little ELC nestling right between the heatsink still, soldered directly to the regulator legs, nice and comfy and hot? Some centimetres of wire distancing it from the IC&heatsink won't blow the regulator's control loop out of the water, I promise
In general you are right but here its a trade-off between heat exposure and stability. You don't want centimeters between the regulator and the cap. Regulator datasheets recommend to put the caps as close as possible to avoid oscillations. I may re-work the whole thing eventually but for now its working just fine.
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Another well executed repair. Have to say, I’m really enjoying this channel.
Well done! I enjoy your videos, mostly because of your attention to detail. You missed one here but who among us can say they have never miss one - I can't. Regards, David
The "Made in England" sticker has been saved ! 👍
Panaplex displays are indeed beautiful. I have a few old desktop calculators that use them (a red and an orange one). They always make me smile when I have to do my accounting.
You will need to replace all the electrolytic caps on the analogue pcb as they are always bad, basically replace every electrolytic cap, also the round bridge rectifiers tend to die as well. I’ve done several videos repairing Datron meters.
Yes, I agree that would be best but since good quality(!) caps are rather expensive, I just can't afford to do it as standard practice. I tested the caps in the power supply and they are ok. For now the meter works fine and if it develops issues, I deal with it then.
@@TheHWcave the caps in a row on the analogue pcb are always bad, they are part of the bootstrap circuit and cause issues with readings, agreed the power supply ones could be fine, they are only bad about 50% of the time.
@@TheDefpom Thanks. I will have a look at those. It's true that DATRONs seem to have a lot of issues with caps going bad. I have a 1059 that had a shortened tantalum cap and briefly played with a 1061A that let out magic smoke (another tantalum cap).
Excellent thinking = Remembering to load test the 5V supply and remembering the grounding issues for the battery swap. An excellent repair and workmanship, all around. I wonder if the white stuff might be heat sink paste squeezing through a gap?
Thanks. Yes, thermal paste squeezing through the hole for the pins is the most likely candidate.
You worried about overheating the big cap, but did you leave that little ELC nestling right between the heatsink still, soldered directly to the regulator legs, nice and comfy and hot? Some centimetres of wire distancing it from the IC&heatsink won't blow the regulator's control loop out of the water, I promise
In general you are right but here its a trade-off between heat exposure and stability. You don't want centimeters between the regulator and the cap. Regulator datasheets recommend to put the caps as close as possible to avoid oscillations. I may re-work the whole thing eventually but for now its working just fine.
RS weren't using 7 digit stock codes in 1982, so I would guess 2004 is more likely.