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GREAT WORK

I know some folk are not a fan of 2-parters but these TRMS videos are quite fascinating (if you like maths of course). Maybe have a think how this could be condensed and rereleased for the masses.

They should have included a 1 KV insulated power brick with the meter, without an intermediate USB plug. I believe this is the standard UL certified configuration. What we get on Amazon is the cheaper configuration for the local market, where they make a saving by not including an adapter. Consider that USB-C socket isn't allowed on any device which could be connected to the mains, like a multimeter. In the end, the safety lapse occurred because the seller didn't include the proper charging brick with the multimeter...

Que excelente, acabei de adquirir um e vim pesquisar, e o melhor que consegui ouvir seu vídeo dublado em português. Um abraço do Brasil.

Very detailed, thank you.

I already have the Shannon LCR tweezers? How does this compare to them? If you have the shannon tweezers, please can you make a comparison video.

I just bought one if these from ali... It cost me 70 USD, based largely on your videos. Thank you for making such an effort!

Impressive analysis as always! Your meticulous breakdown of the devices and circuits really highlights both the intricacies of engineering and the common bugs that can arise. It's a great reminder of the attention to detail needed in this field. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and keep up the fantastic work!

Thanks for the forecast! Could you help me with something unrelated: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?

Excellent presentation of data and comprehensive overview. I especially appreciate the shortcut to calibration which I did not know. I had no issues with the bootloader working first time. Glad to see the REL is working better now and includes R and C. Does it work on L too?

Thank you. If you have reason to open your AIM LCR bridge, I'd love to see a teardown or partial teardown. We had a pair of these at a previous employer - there was some talk of thowing them away; unfortunately that never happened as I'd probably have saved them for myself!

when i add the discount code, the price of the probe increases from $23.99 to $39.99 and leaves me with a balance of $29 after discount :( such a rip off.

The ST1 doesn't appear in the results charts at 11:38, 13:17, and 14:22. Was this intentional, or am I missing something?

Interesting unit. I wish these existed years ago when I ended up overpaying for an LCR meter that is both slow and unpractical to use. To me it is uncanny how they manage in a handfult of years to outclass something like the Peak ESR meter which I didn't buy back then because for 200 bucks I could afford to replace every cap I wanted to measure the ESR of.

Oh yeah, my dad was a blind television repairer... 😅😅😅😅😅

Got mine 3 days ago. There are 2 large ceramic fuses for 1000 volts. The PCB are different, I have the analog version 1.5. and usb, not com.

How to make it work with 32768 clock crystal ?

Did you think about unwinding the resistors back into tolerance, if they were all a bit high?

Would the two designs offer a difference in ac behavior? Perhaps the muirhead would produce a more constant reactive resistance.

My unit looks the same. I could not get the Amp reading to work. I noticed that my unit do not have a shunt build into it, Do anybody know why and how to make the amps to work?

As a result of this modification power factor went from 1 to 0.54. I've followed your design and experienced the same change. I suppose some of that elements that were removed wasn't that useless after all.

I have a Model D. How does it compare with the Model 8? I am a novice but love to tinker with this stuff. This video was very informative! I will be checking out more of your videos.

Good work!!

Excellent review!

i have a 7075,complex for its time.

Great video!

Cool, yesterday I got a 27 from the local museum in to fix. It was just bad contacts on the sebra strips, but anyway.

I recently worked on a Fluke 8050A, sold very cheap as "not working". Many of this model have a battery option, using nicad cells. If the cells are bad the meter will not function, although plugged into an outlet. When turned on it takes power from the batteries exclusively. So had to buy new nicads and install them to restore normal function. Then I checked fuses since it was open. At first the 3 Amp fuse seemed OK, but then it displayed a variable internal resistance. Very strange behavior going from low ohms to hundreds. I replaced that fuse. It was not blown open, just defective.

My Fluke 79 has worked perfectly since new and holds cal. But recently I discovered the top of the case had cracks. It was always in the yellow protective case so I have no idea how it broke but I had to glue it back together. The gray plastic of the back of the case seems more durable and thicker than the front. No hopes of getting a replacement case now. Also the tab broke on the function knob so it will go past the stop if you try.

Nice video. I have a Fluke 37 (which is a 27's guts in a benchtop case.) Good to see how well it's built. I modded mine to put a 9VDC power supply in the probe storage compartment.

I saved a very badly neglected meter some months ago: it needed a switch, a button and a fuse and a good display screen polish... feel good repair, turning junk into something functional again. Beware of the fiber pens, they shed fibers... you don't want to breathe that. I use it wet for this reason.

I bought the Fluke 27 DMM new and it still looks new because it has only been used on a work bench. Thanks for showing me the insides. When you showed the service manual I didn't know it was available. Did a search on the Internet, found the manual and downloaded it. Thanks for posting the video.

Thank you for another interesting repair video. Another source of good quality multimeters is Wavetek (with less "sticker shock"). I have owned Wavetek 2025 for several years and have found it to be reliable and accurate. Regards, David

So you played around with it in a manor that its not meant to be used and it blew... Not really a surprise.

Hi, did a video of testing the removed Solartron caps ever happen?

You worried about overheating the big cap, but did you leave that little ELC nestling right between the heatsink still, soldered directly to the regulator legs, nice and comfy and hot? Some centimetres of wire distancing it from the IC&heatsink won't blow the regulator's control loop out of the water, I promise

Great video. Do you still use the power supply for your projects? Following the previous comment about Service Manuals, do you have ‘go-to’ web sites when you search for them on-line?

5:55 in the chart it says the specs support "60A/600A" and you say you tested "up to 60A" (minus inrush) so i'm confused, does the meter only detect from a MINIMUM of 60A ??? but then you say you tested "up to 60A" ??? So how low can it detect ?

Hi, thank you very much for the informative video, I'm looking at your github page now, this is all very helpful. I was thinking about the calibration aspect of changing the resistors. If the resistors are changed and the Ac voltage reading from the board is, for example, 235vAC, instead of 240vAC, as read on an accurate DVM, could you apply a fudge factor of 240/235 to all the voltage readings to obtain the correct voltage? I'm assuming the calculations within the chip are linear.

I wonder if the original resistor would have been a Philips part, given that Philips owned Fluke back in the day.

Interestingly, that is an Australian NSN on the label, I wonder how it ended up half a world away?

Are you sure the burden resistor is 50 miliohms? I see a resistor of R500.

That does NOT look like a standard light switch . . . far from it . . . it appears to be a three-way light switch.

Excellent need to make one thank you

excellent review, thank you, can you please make a video on testing the remote observation mode at night? the manufacturer states that the identification distance for this model is 0.1 - 200m (0.32 - 650ft), but the TC001 model has an identification distance of 0.1 - 50m (0.32 - 164ft). I'm interested in that review because that mode is for outdoor viewing from a window on buildings or nature, not indoor in the house.

Lovely meter. I’m playing catch up with some of the older videos, but it would be nice to see equipment like this being used and making another appearance in future videos.

Excellent video, and an awesome upgrade that I needed!

The reason for having two fuses in series is because the big HRC one is expensive to replace, so in most cases just the cheaper one blows. In the rare case of serious breaking capacity being needed, the bigger HRC will save your life.

The twisted wires acting as a trimmer cap for the 1000v range is incredible. You were so right not to touch that, It looks like it would get upset really easily 🙂

For continuity on this Owon, I saw someone on YT comparing the Owon's probes and a pair of Probe Master probes. The response speed was way better with the Probe Master. The guy suspected it was the material of the wires that wasn't totally copper.