5:55 in the chart it says the specs support "60A/600A" and you say you tested "up to 60A" (minus inrush) so i'm confused, does the meter only detect from a MINIMUM of 60A ??? but then you say you tested "up to 60A" ??? So how low can it detect ?
There is a problem with the KC602 in that it does not allow manual ranging and the MAX function disables autoranging. That means you are locked into momentary used range (usually the lowest) and that would be 60A. In this case if the current shoots up beyond 60A you can't see the max value using MAX. On AC or DC amps it measures more than 60A just fine if you turn off MAX. For AC Amps you can use INRUSH as kind of a substitute for MAX. To put it another way, the problem is not that the meter can't measure up to 600A but that MAX prevents it from changing range to do it. That in itself is normal. All meters with a MAX function do that. But other meters allow you to first set manually the range. The inability to manually set the range to 600A basically cripples the MAX function on the KC602
@@cjjuszczak The best resolution is 10mA in the 60A range. But accuracy is +-(2.5% +5 digits). At very low amps, say 50mA , the digits part becomes important. The meter could read anything from 0.01A to 0.10A and would still be in spec. If you are after low current a clamp meter that is suitable for leakage current checks is better, for example the Uni-T UT210E. Its not quite as good as a true leakage current meter but It has a lowest range of 2A with 1mA resolution +-(2%+8) so the 50mA could read as 0.042 to 0.058. I have a few videos on the UT210E)
@@TheHWcave This is EXACTLY the info i was looking for as i'm looking for a new amature multimeter for me to check low amperage circuits from about 50-100ma up to a few amps, and with a clamp if possible (checking higher amp AC/DC circuits around the home would be a bonus). Resolution they all seem to be more than good enough for my needs. I was looking at these "auto" clamp meters, and just got confused by the "ranges" when it says 60A-600A thinking it doesn't go any lower than 60A :) Thanks again, you've answered my queries perfectly, and i'll check out those meters you mentioned 👍♥
Thank you for another in-depth review. Interesting that better quality test leads improve the operation of the continuity mode dramatically. It would be interesting to determine what the difference is that causes this. Kaiweets can't be too upset if they sent you another item to review! Regards, David
I did a test some time ago when reviewing another meter (can't remember) and using alcohol to de-grease and then polishing the tips of the probes that came with the meter made a difference. But they seem to tarnish again easily. So it must be the surface material of the tips and/or some grease or similar that the manufacturer might have applied to prevent rust on inferior ones. I used to compare with Brymen leads but gold plated tips are actually not needed. The Pomona ones work well without that and are generally available. Kaiweets send me both meters at the same time together with a test lead kit for review. So the jury is still out on whether they will ever do this again... BTW, that test lead kit review is almost done now and those probes work as good as the Pomona on the KC602, so they can do it if they want to... Even the ones from the KM601s are better than the KC602...
@@TheHWcave i suggest to write and pinn this comment onto the top cause that was reason for me not to buy this meter. Luckily I read all comments to find it out. And maybe you might ask Kaiweets to tell you more about , if they have improved the product meanwhile with better probes cause that was really a terrible result and easy to crosscheck. Yes, de icing, no, decreasing --- oh no de greeasing might help a bit but sorry, I need a meter to work and not to polish every time I use it especially if that is not often the case: i have ordered one from Amazon for testing and in case it has the terrible leads I will complain and ship it back or amazon will try to fix it I bet cause usually they ask.
very good and in depth review with a lot of explanations for bloody amateurs like me. The probes seem to work after de greasing as the author has mentioned in a comment somewhere below and is worth to mention cause I was not willing to buy a 50€ multimeter which has continuity issues and needs de greasing and polishing. Too annoying and not a good sign that Kaiweets does not detect that and cares or better improves the quality as continuity is a key element.
It is pretty much a given that the probes that come with lower-end meters are terrible. The probes in the box are where the manufacturers skimp and recover costs. Yes degreasing helps momentarily but these probes are greased for a reason. They will tarnish / corrode eventually. I always recommend to invest into a set of branded probes ( I personally like Pomona but others are available). Also probes for electrical work are different from those that are better for electronics , so even say a Fluke probe set meant for probing bus bars and other mains electricals are usually not great for probing on a complex PCB.
I was impressed by this review, specially when you looked into the low volt range. Now I am of the old school, very much disliking all sorts of automatic things. Your low volt test shows exactly the kind of unexpected things that happens to plastic fantastic automatic things. I think based on this, I will buy the Kaiweets/Habotest 208D. I have actually had the 208D before, it was in fact so nice that my friend took off with it (he is forgiven), so I didn't get very much experience with it. I now wanted to have a quick look around for what is available today before buying another clamp meter again, but based on your review I think I will abandon the sexy functions and small size of the KC602, and buy the 208D again. Incidentally, the manuals state that the KC602 only measures inrush current in AC, but the 208D does AC and DC, at 100ms.
I totally agree. They are slowly getting better with low volts etc where the "smart" part gets in the way but its still quite bit away from what a simple dumb meter can do if operated by a user with at least half a brain. .
As a long-time subscriber I hate to sound like this, but anything to save our friend HWcave from going full-steam-WOKE ! Firstly NOBODY dangles the charging cable while using the meter or even otherwise. In fact the newbies are double-check-careful. And everyone uses TWO hands checking the mains voltage, so only those who have a THIRD HAND instead of a brain are in any danger. So, I say YAAAAAY for Kaiweets, I'm buying a KM601, KC601, and every development thereof, even if they are painted RAINBOW !
Is there a reasonably priced (up to $/€ 100) low level amp clamp meter, (“robustly”) accurate down to 10mA with 1mA resolution? (Perhaps a max of 3-5amps to 0.01amp.) It could even be a MANUAL, SINGLE function (horrors!!!) unit, or minimal number of functions all done well ... as opposed to the auto/multi-modes all of which are mediocre to poor.
I am assuming you mean DC amps (with hall-effect sensors) because clamp meters that only do AC amps are ubiquitous. In fact especially on eBay/Aliexpress you always have to carefully check where a clamp meter can actually do DC amps or not. Regarding models, I am not really following the market and there might be lots newer models. From own experience I have a UT210E which is ok (I have a whole series about improving it). It now suffers from the range switch starting to wear. After cleaning, it works again for now (not sure how long). On the other hand, the UT210E can't be beaten on price and resolution, so it might be worth just getting one and replace it when it wears out. Compare with Brymen who have a set of well regarded clamp meters but they only go down to 10mA and (BM078) cost 4 times the UT210E.
5:55 in the chart it says the specs support "60A/600A" and you say you tested "up to 60A" (minus inrush) so i'm confused, does the meter only detect from a MINIMUM of 60A ??? but then you say you tested "up to 60A" ???
So how low can it detect ?
There is a problem with the KC602 in that it does not allow manual ranging and the MAX function disables autoranging. That means you are locked into momentary used range (usually the lowest) and that would be 60A. In this case if the current shoots up beyond 60A you can't see the max value using MAX. On AC or DC amps it measures more than 60A just fine if you turn off MAX. For AC Amps you can use INRUSH as kind of a substitute for MAX. To put it another way, the problem is not that the meter can't measure up to 600A but that MAX prevents it from changing range to do it. That in itself is normal. All meters with a MAX function do that. But other meters allow you to first set manually the range. The inability to manually set the range to 600A basically cripples the MAX function on the KC602
@@TheHWcave thanks for the quick reply, my issue is i want to know what is the minimum amps it can measure ?
@@cjjuszczak The best resolution is 10mA in the 60A range. But accuracy is +-(2.5% +5 digits). At very low amps, say 50mA , the digits part becomes important. The meter could read anything from 0.01A to 0.10A and would still be in spec. If you are after low current a clamp meter that is suitable for leakage current checks is better, for example the Uni-T UT210E. Its not quite as good as a true leakage current meter but It has a lowest range of 2A with 1mA resolution +-(2%+8) so the 50mA could read as 0.042 to 0.058. I have a few videos on the UT210E)
@@TheHWcave This is EXACTLY the info i was looking for as i'm looking for a new amature multimeter for me to check low amperage circuits from about 50-100ma up to a few amps, and with a clamp if possible (checking higher amp AC/DC circuits around the home would be a bonus). Resolution they all seem to be more than good enough for my needs. I was looking at these "auto" clamp meters, and just got confused by the "ranges" when it says 60A-600A thinking it doesn't go any lower than 60A :)
Thanks again, you've answered my queries perfectly, and i'll check out those meters you mentioned 👍♥
Thank you for another in-depth review. Interesting that better quality test leads improve the operation of the continuity mode dramatically. It would be interesting to determine what the difference is that causes this. Kaiweets can't be too upset if they sent you another item to review! Regards, David
I did a test some time ago when reviewing another meter (can't remember) and using alcohol to de-grease and then polishing the tips of the probes that came with the meter made a difference. But they seem to tarnish again easily. So it must be the surface material of the tips and/or some grease or similar that the manufacturer might have applied to prevent rust on inferior ones. I used to compare with Brymen leads but gold plated tips are actually not needed. The Pomona ones work well without that and are generally available. Kaiweets send me both meters at the same time together with a test lead kit for review. So the jury is still out on whether they will ever do this again... BTW, that test lead kit review is almost done now and those probes work as good as the Pomona on the KC602, so they can do it if they want to... Even the ones from the KM601s are better than the KC602...
@@TheHWcave i suggest to write and pinn this comment onto the top cause that was reason for me not to buy this meter.
Luckily I read all comments to find it out.
And maybe you might ask Kaiweets to tell you more about , if they have improved the product meanwhile with better probes cause that was really a terrible result and easy to crosscheck. Yes, de icing, no, decreasing --- oh no de greeasing might help a bit but sorry, I need a meter to work and not to polish every time I use it especially if that is not often the case: i have ordered one from Amazon for testing and in case it has the terrible leads I will complain and ship it back or amazon will try to fix it I bet cause usually they ask.
very good and in depth review with a lot of explanations for bloody amateurs like me.
The probes seem to work after de greasing as the author has mentioned in a comment somewhere below and is worth to mention cause I was not willing to buy a 50€ multimeter which has continuity issues and needs de greasing and polishing. Too annoying and not a good sign that Kaiweets does not detect that and cares or better improves the quality as continuity is a key element.
It is pretty much a given that the probes that come with lower-end meters are terrible. The probes in the box are where the manufacturers skimp and recover costs. Yes degreasing helps momentarily but these probes are greased for a reason. They will tarnish / corrode eventually. I always recommend to invest into a set of branded probes ( I personally like Pomona but others are available). Also probes for electrical work are different from those that are better for electronics , so even say a Fluke probe set meant for probing bus bars and other mains electricals are usually not great for probing on a complex PCB.
I was impressed by this review, specially when you looked into the low volt range. Now I am of the old school, very much disliking all sorts of automatic things. Your low volt test shows exactly the kind of unexpected things that happens to plastic fantastic automatic things. I think based on this, I will buy the Kaiweets/Habotest 208D.
I have actually had the 208D before, it was in fact so nice that my friend took off with it (he is forgiven), so I didn't get very much experience with it. I now wanted to have a quick look around for what is available today before buying another clamp meter again, but based on your review I think I will abandon the sexy functions and small size of the KC602, and buy the 208D again.
Incidentally, the manuals state that the KC602 only measures inrush current in AC, but the 208D does AC and DC, at 100ms.
I totally agree. They are slowly getting better with low volts etc where the "smart" part gets in the way but its still quite bit away from what a simple dumb meter can do if operated by a user with at least half a brain. .
Is there a way to turn on the screen backlight on the Aneng AN870 for an unlimited time?
Hi and thanks for the video. Is this product the same as the gvda gd166b model??
They look identical but I have not compared the specs. I would not be surprised if they are indeed the same meter (rebadged)
As a long-time subscriber I hate to sound like this, but anything to save our friend HWcave from going full-steam-WOKE !
Firstly NOBODY dangles the charging cable while using the meter or even otherwise. In fact the newbies are double-check-careful.
And everyone uses TWO hands checking the mains voltage, so only those who have a THIRD HAND instead of a brain are in any danger.
So, I say YAAAAAY for Kaiweets, I'm buying a KM601, KC601, and every development thereof, even if they are painted RAINBOW !
Can it do inrush dc current?
No, only for AC current
If you see a DMM with a flashlight or NCV it is not a DMM but a toy.
❤
35mA battery consumption is too high!
Good job 👍🏻🌹
Is there a reasonably priced (up to $/€ 100) low level amp clamp meter, (“robustly”) accurate down to 10mA with 1mA resolution? (Perhaps a max of 3-5amps to 0.01amp.) It could even be a MANUAL, SINGLE function (horrors!!!) unit, or minimal number of functions all done well ... as opposed to the auto/multi-modes all of which are mediocre to poor.
I am assuming you mean DC amps (with hall-effect sensors) because clamp meters that only do AC amps are ubiquitous. In fact especially on eBay/Aliexpress you always have to carefully check where a clamp meter can actually do DC amps or not. Regarding models, I am not really following the market and there might be lots newer models. From own experience I have a UT210E which is ok (I have a whole series about improving it). It now suffers from the range switch starting to wear. After cleaning, it works again for now (not sure how long). On the other hand, the UT210E can't be beaten on price and resolution, so it might be worth just getting one and replace it when it wears out. Compare with Brymen who have a set of well regarded clamp meters but they only go down to 10mA and (BM078) cost 4 times the UT210E.
@@TheHWcave Thanks for your reply. The UT210E looks just right.
I''ll check out the improvement series.