How to repair a blower shaft
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2012
- I describe a method of repairing a bearing failure on a damaged drive shaft usually for HVAC blowers without replacing the shaft.
This video is part of the heating and cooling series of training videos made to accompany my websites: www.graycoolingman.com and www.grayfurnaceman.com to pass on what I have learned in many years of service and repair. If you have suggestions or comments they are welcome.
If you are a homeowner looking to repair your own appliance, understand that the voltages can be lethal, the fuels are highly flammable and high pressures are used. Know your limits. 
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As always, i am amazed at the lost art of technical detail you offer. Thanks...
good one, thanks...
I have been concerned that my 1957 blower would fail like this, and i must confess I have done little to help it. I think there are grease cups on my Lennox blower intended for use with Lennox grease. My grandparents had the grease tubes everywhere around the office when i was a child. It was a white lithium grease, and I could probably open that old can of white grease in the garage known. Cummins engine assembles all engines with huge quantities of Lubriplate. I have not attempted greasing the bearing because i am too big to squeeze into the side next to the wall. 🙄
Unfortunately no. The balls will rust and the environment is filled with dust. Yes dust. Minerals from the evaporated water make a dust. I'm afraid bronze is the only material used. Getting the shaft out will probably be impossible without damaging the blower wheel. You can try cutting the shaft off flush with the hub if you can get to it and knocking it out with a brass drift. Also any replacement motor must be evap cooler rated. Good luck
GFM
I have a bizarre problem. I replaced the bearings on both sides of my window residential evap. I've done this before. This time I had to sand the shaft where the pull wheel is to get it back on. It had some damage from the previous set screw. I sanded and used some lithium grease to get the new bearing and wheel back on. NOW, I cannot get a firm lock between the shaft and wheel. I crank the set screw all the way down and the wheel still spins semi-independently from the shaft. I've tried longer set screws, nothing. I worry I sanded it too well? The only thing I can think of left is Loctite but I know this will make for more problems down the road. What can I do to increase the odds that the wheel will lock tightly to the shaft?
I have a 2 hp fan motor and there seems to be a bit of play in the shaft as it comes out of the motor. is that normal? I thought the shaft should be tight and not loose but my experience with fan motors is limited. Thanks.
Andrew Brown If the movement is end play, it is probably normal. Play across the shaft means worn bearings.
GFM
Where can I get that kind of bearing?
You can try local bearing outlets or one of the local HVAC contractors.
GFM
Hi where u live i need ur help ...where can we get the bearing part???
I am in the northwest. The bearing may be available at a local HVAC dealer.
GFM
Is there such thing as a blower used in an air handler that does not need a shaft or bearing. Like in all in one blower with a motor
Direct drive blowers have been in use exclusively in residential air handlers. Only the larger RTUs use belt drivers.
GFM
I wish you lived in los angeles
How do I remove the shaft from the squirrel cage . The shaft is rusted and won't budge
This may take a while. First, use sandpaper to clean off as much rust as you can. Then oil the shaft. then attempt to rotate the shaft. You may have to work it for a while. Once it
moves, you will have to hammer it out with a wooden dowel. Do not use steel, it will mushroom the shaft. Hope this helps.
GFM
looks like you used a stainless steel shaft. I need to replace my bearings too. Is there a way to replace the squirrel cage? Looks like I might need to cut the cage all up just to get to it =/
The shaft is ground shaft steel. You should be able to remove the shaft by loosening the set screws. Sometimes they can be rather tough to remove. Oil and sandpaper will help.
GFM
Tanarus20 how did you solve your problem
I can't figure out what's going wrong with my cooler ? My cooler keeps going off and on about every 20 minutes by itself. I the assumed the motor was getting too hot, so I've replaced my blower motor 3 times and kept swamping the 3 of them in and out, replaced the bearings, adjusted the belt many times from tight to so lose it was coming off the pully, replaced the 2 speed wall switch, and the power cord to the blower motor. The motor still keeps repeatedly shutting down after about 20 minutes then coming back on. The blowed shaft seems finest since there blower spins pretty much freely from the what I came tell. I'm going to melt this weekend. Does anyone know what could be the problem?
You could have too small of a motor. If the amp draw is above the rated load, it will shut down periodically.
GFM
Thanks gray furnace man. I replaced the motor with a 1/2 horse which is the same power that's been in it for years, but it sounds worth the try.