For that much chipping, I would think that you'd find some of the pieces in the bag. If not, it makes me wonder if they get them that cheap because they're chipped discards from the source.....? Maybe? Nice review! There are faster ways to hog off material, so I need me face mill to leave a nice finish......so I'll need inserts that aren't chipped. I'm curious to hear what they're response is about why/how they're chipped. Thanks!!! ......also.....I'm pretty sure you can spin that cutter at least twice as fast.....that would help make your cut smoother if you leave the IPM feed the same.
Thanks. I am not sure when they got chipped, but it seems likely that the shipping method had something to do with it. The chips are very small and they really didn't stand out, except under magnification. I have purchased similar, if not identical inserts, on ebay in the past and they were excellent. As to the speed, the specs on the website say about 500SFM which works out to roughly 1000RPM. I have found that faster works better in the past and actually tried that off camera (2400 RPM), but you cant get around the imperfect cutting edges. Thanks for the comments. They are appreciated.
I'll have to check my CAM tool settings.....I run the same inserts from another maker and I thought I was running closer to 3400 rpm on a 2" face mill. .......yep...just checked.....I'm running them at 3500. Now I'll have to go look at the packaging and see what the recommendation is for them. lol Maybe I'm pushing them too hard. Are you on instagram? I can tag you for a vid showing the tool path I was running them on. If they can figure out a way to get you those inserts at that price without the chips.....I think I might just run a bit slower. :)
I have several of the identical cutter and many of the inserts. I have a video in which I am experimenting on steel using the cutter on a universal arbor I designed and make and sell. However I was just using the cheap aluminum inserts I had to see what would happen. These face mills are great however a person has to be aware of and have the capability of trueing some things up. For instance on your cutter you will find the outer diameter is BARELY bigger than what the inserts cut. What that means is that in a pocket situation the side of the cutter will crush chips as they slam through--I always spin down the cutter for at least .015 clearance. Also when inspecting the cutter on the surface plate the reference surfaces where the inserts butt up against were slightly catty wampus varying by .002 or so. On your inserts be aware there is a large massive wiper on the bottom about .100 long ALOT. you can simply dust that off skillfully with a diamond file so you dont have a huge amount dragging and smearing and exerting alot of vertical z force. yes only one insert produces the finish so if a person wants a fly cutter finish simply do it--take out the inserts except one like everyone does and scream the rpm--also knock of some of that wiper flat. I will be doing more videos..
I have several of the cutters and also a few big ones--one is over 3 inches diameter and is a beautiful cutter. Something people need to remember is that cutter being used can SCREAM across that block ten times faster than what you were doing--thats what its for!.. hobbiests such as in the comments almost invariably are obsessed with "flycutter and perfect surface concepts".. that shell mill is nothing but a mount for a carbide bit that you can sharpen and do as you please--YES A FLY CUTTER..
I really appreciate the insight. I was wondering about the potential for mediocre machining on these tools as a cause for crappy finish. The fact that you have measured such large differences in insert placement is telling. I will check out your videos.
Interesting. I had wondered what would happen if you only used 1 insert. I should have tried it, but was concerned about balance issues, but I guess all fly cutters would have that issue.
Hard things are often brittle with little toughness. These inserts are definitely that and it means that they would likely perform poorly on interrupted cuts.
Looks ok , even with top end inserts, they never all seat equally. One or more inserts always stick down 0.001 or more even, giving it’s trademark pattern in your workpiece. My Sandvik 3” facemill has variation, but it’s a rougher. I guess flycut is your best bet for ultimate finish.
I have a strong suspicion you are correct. I have yet to try a fly cutter, but definitely need to. I also seem to knock my milling machine's head out of tram more often than I check it. Thanks for the comment.
I knew someone would say that. I have the same cutter and inserts but not the polished ones he used. The chipping barely matters at all. you can take a diamond when and sharpen the inserts.
I forgot to mention that I make my own universal arbors and the one I got with one of my cutters--the one you have was not r-8 it was morse 2. and that thing shook all over especially the center locating post--highly critical since it locates the concentricity of the inserts. However when roughing and using the cutter for fly cutter concept with one insert it honestly does not matter. Keep in mind that with a good feed like the cutter is designed for that EACH insert then takes a cut (but not on the z surface) . The runnout a person mentioned could easily be runout of the body--not the inserts.. The reason is because as I inspected on the surface plate with my indicator they did lose the relationship in places it did not matter--they went from different setups instead of spinning everything concentric--when you look at the reference for the inserts it MAY be concentric it will be close--however the outer body and things could be all over the place which is what I in fact found. Concentricity is not that important but it is to me because i often use cutters for ultra precision plunge milling of angled surfaces. In those cases I use one insert at high rpm because I cannot be plunging down and have different impacts producing 4 different surfaces. LOOK FOR MY VIDEOS TO START APPEARING.
Thanks. I appreciate the insight and am looking for your videos. I have cheapo face mill shells, so it is very possible that they were not precision machined. I'm sure there is a reason that the name brands are much more expensive, beyond the obvious.
Great honest review. The packaging isn't great to say the least. Though I guess they do it to help their bottom line,it could come back to bite them in the end/sells. Thank you for sharing. All my best. Bobby
If the direction of travel makes a difference in surface finish, doesn't that suggest a look at head tram is in order? Your width of cut is well over the radius of the tool, so I'd think it isn't a case of climb vs. conventional cut. I'm not seeing any 'cross cut' tool marks from the trailing side of the cutter. On my mills, that has pretty much meant my spindle tram is out.
Someone else sent me the same message and it turns out you were both correct. Both nod and tilt were off. Thanks for noticing and taking the time to let me know.
Suggest kerosene or WD40 for Al cutting. Pity about the shipping damage, but my experience with Asian suppliers is that they pay attention to feedback and improve their processes.
I have had similar experiences with cutting tools from Banggood. I commented to them; they excused themselves extensively, but learned nothing from it, because with my next order a few months later it was the same story. It also happened with other measuring materials. What is disappointing is, that one can comment, get loads of excuses and offers to return, but they learn nothing from it.
I have the same experience. I suspect that they figure that at the price point people will still buy. It is really sad that a small investment could yield a significant improvement.
happy to know that someone have good experiences with BANGGOOD! Just received my Face Mill .... ... but ... parcel contains only R8 adapter, Face mill and insert are missed .... ... no answer from customer service ... Banggood, No No No, very bad
Wow, it is good to hear about how BangGood reacts to customer service complaints. I have received a few items for review and never received one, but I have purchased more than a dozen and gotten them all except for one set of gear cutters that was incomplete. They say they are making good, but I am more than a month out with only a tracking number to some foreign shipping company. I would like to hear from people that had good service as well, but people that are satisfied tend not to comment at all. That being said, there is no excuse for them not helping you with an incomplete order. I hope they make good. thanks for the comment.
Hi, a follow up... not easy contact and REPLY customer service, but after open a Paypal case, I agreed for a partial refund and placed a new order for the missed parts. ... will see ...
This sounds like getting your issues resolved was harder than it should have been. I hope they are listening and making the appropriate changes. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
I am not sure. They don't come packaged like ordinary inserts, rather free in a bag, which is one of my complaints. They don't list the specs. Other vendors of similar inserts say the depth is 0.05-2.50mm.
It is hard to say. They arrived that way, but because the inserts were shipped separately in a bag from the sealed box that is designed to hold them, I concluded that they might just store the inserts free in some kind of bin and count out 10 when they sell them. If so they are needlessly damaging pretty nice inserts because they don't want to store them in a protected manner. They are incredibly inexpensive compared to any of the big boys, so perhaps they can't afford to have much human interaction with the inserts and still keep the price down. I am not sure at all, but it seems a shame.
I think you should spend more time in a follow up video talking about packing, shipping damage and how that might effect the finished produced . . . rather than getting undamaged inserts and running a test with them. Much more informative to see how random insert damage might or might not affect finish. Real page turner
Good observation. You are not the first to point this out. What I have since discovered, is that the locking bolts on my the head of my mill need to be tightened far more than I ever expected. In the past (including the point in time when this video was shot) I tightened the head bolts with a wrench to snug. I discovered that if I take any kind of medium bite with the mill, I am knocking my head back out of tram to the tune of 0.003-0.005". I need to figure out how much torque to apply on the 3 or 4 bolts to ensure a decent lock. I have a relatively inexpensive mill made in China, so I expect that the mating surfaces might be less than perfectly flat reducing the friction when locked or I simply lack the experience to know how much torque they need. Thanks for the great observation.
@@DudleyToolwright you Need to inspect a thread/torque chart . For any kind of thread there is a specified torque . Take new bolts of the same grade and torque them in relation of the thread diameter .... Example M6x1 grade 8.8 = 8.37/10.47 nm of torque
I'm from Italy and we use the metric system... And there is the thread/torque chart ... www.gberardi.com/info-tecniche/precarichi-e-coppie-di-serraggio/ I think there is a chart also for Imperial size thread and Imperial torque
The finish is poor because that cutter body is running out of true, which means one of the four tips is running higher than the other 3. Put a dial indicator on the tip of the teeth to see the high one....it's all over the place, even the body is visibly running out. To get the best out of a multi faceted tool like this one, it needs to run True with all of the tips seated and also running true to the body. Basic tool setting knowledge really. Its so obvious. You would be better off using a single point fly cutting tool on a lightweight machine set up like this anyway. Much easier to get a surface finish too. You also need to clock the spindle perpendicular to the table,its on an angle.
You make excellent point. I really do need to do a more careful review. I had considered the point height consistency issue, but had too little experience to properly measure it.
@@DudleyToolwright These cutters will remove metal faster than a Fly utter. However, if it's surface finish and or flatness that's important, the single point Fly utter is a better choice. Like when skimming Cylinder Blocks or Heads....🤔😏🇬🇧
the empty box isn't a new one but is a pretty weird business practice, I didn't imagine my box was sent like that at the time but there's no other possibility really.
I started three years ago, never touched a mill in my life. Now I have a great business with several mills, 7 employees and a TON of experience. My advice. The name brands may be more expensive but in the long run they are cheaper. Lost productivity, poor surface finish, very short life span due to low quality. Spend the extra few bucks and get the good stuff, it pays off in the long run. Same goes with endmills. Buy the good stuff and revel in the long life, smooth finish and increased productivity.
I have noticed this myself. I bought a set of Chinese carbide endmills in a large range of sizes, but the diameters are way off and the chip easily. Sometimes, for someone who may only use a tool a few times it is not worth the investment. I have limited funds and have to pick and choose what to buy. I do however, really appreciate the pointer and others can benefit from your ideas, so thanks.
Congratulations on your success, I’ve never touched a mill or lathe myself I have some ideas for some products that I will be making, it will be more artisanal than industrial though, what does your company make if you don’t mind me asking? I’m thinking about making my own business but I don’t know how to go about it.
@@fluffyhead6377 I was in the same boat. Actually bought a HAAS VF4-SS and rented a shop with no idea what I was going to make. A friend came by and I was working on his computer (I worked in IT for years). I saw a need for a product so I invented it. Using my product you can increase the speed of your computer. Very popular with gamers as it also increases keyboard and mouse response. We've sold millions of dollars worth of product and have not spent one dime on advertising. How to go about it? Find a need and fill it. Come up with a new product no one has seen before. Just be sure and trademark it or the chinese will steal it. They stole my idea and sell it for $10 less but their quality is crap. Don't underestimate Kickstarter. Flood them with new products. Just look at the guy who made a slightly different box cutter. He raked in like $800,000, another made a spinning top and pulled in $125,000. Those kinds of numbers help a lot when getting started.
Jack Flash wow that is amazing well done, I have a unique idea Im scared to tell anyone about it in case of theft like you said, the trusted family members I told about it all said it should of been invented years ago, thanks for your advice.
Jack Flash so what was your thinking when renting a shop without a product idea? That seems pretty strange, Was it to teach yourself to use machinery? I’ve always had an inventive mind it’s only now I’m in my late 20s that I’m starting to buy tools and have converted my garage into a workshop so I can work on a few ideas, I’m guessing you started in a similar way?
Why they would ship them that way is hard to understand. We know Banggood is just random Chinese stuff from random Chinese manufacturers that they put their name on, usually, not even on the tooling but on the box. But still,, even though it might be a bit cheaper, it still doesn’t make sense. But good test.
Thanks for the feedback. I haven't had any major issues yet, but haven't had them long enough to really see what life expectancy they have. If you have had issues, I would love to hear about them. Thanks for the comment.
NEVER touch the work with the machine running !!!!!!! Count your fingers.....& stop teaching bad habits for newbies. Your vice may need to be indicated better, level with mill head.
Like really......they are dirt cheap buddy.....go buy "Sanvic" inserts at 10 times the price.......Then replace your holder...$$$$$$$$ for a good one.........then get a decent mill....where do you stop???
You point is well taken. I try to find inexpensive tooling that is still well made to help myself and others out. I comment negatively if the tool is total crap or if a little bit of effort could, in this case, get the parts delivered in manufactured state. Putting the inserts in a bag for a long overseas trip caused transit damage that was unnecessary. I would pay a bit more for tools delivered in the same state they left the factory in. Thanks for your comments.
Hi, and thanks for the reply. Unexpected. I do like your videos and genuinely thank you for your time and effort in producing them. I guess I just get a bit sick of China bashing. They are what they are at the price point. I agree with you that there could be a little more care.......but it all costs AND we, as the customer, seem always to want "something for nothing". On a lighter note, you could get one of their (Chinesium) "dodgey" diamond wheels ($8-20) put it on your little grinder, make an adjustable jig to hold the insert and resharpen or modify them - tip radius/relief etc.. Make a great video. Thank you again. Cheers, from Australia, David
Thank you for the tips and watching. I always appreciate it. If you happen by some of my other reviews, you will find that I have been quite positive about a bunch of tools from Asia. I am a firm believer that they build what the market wants. Both of my main machines are from China or Taiwan and I couldn't be happier. They are both great quality and a good deal. Thanks again and Cheers.
I'm surprised you still have all your fingers!!
Wide angle lenses make things look a lot closer together than they are.
For that much chipping, I would think that you'd find some of the pieces in the bag. If not, it makes me wonder if they get them that cheap because they're chipped discards from the source.....? Maybe? Nice review! There are faster ways to hog off material, so I need me face mill to leave a nice finish......so I'll need inserts that aren't chipped. I'm curious to hear what they're response is about why/how they're chipped.
Thanks!!!
......also.....I'm pretty sure you can spin that cutter at least twice as fast.....that would help make your cut smoother if you leave the IPM feed the same.
Thanks. I am not sure when they got chipped, but it seems likely that the shipping method had something to do with it. The chips are very small and they really didn't stand out, except under magnification. I have purchased similar, if not identical inserts, on ebay in the past and they were excellent. As to the speed, the specs on the website say about 500SFM which works out to roughly 1000RPM. I have found that faster works better in the past and actually tried that off camera (2400 RPM), but you cant get around the imperfect cutting edges. Thanks for the comments. They are appreciated.
I'll have to check my CAM tool settings.....I run the same inserts from another maker and I thought I was running closer to 3400 rpm on a 2" face mill. .......yep...just checked.....I'm running them at 3500. Now I'll have to go look at the packaging and see what the recommendation is for them. lol Maybe I'm pushing them too hard. Are you on instagram? I can tag you for a vid showing the tool path I was running them on.
If they can figure out a way to get you those inserts at that price without the chips.....I think I might just run a bit slower. :)
I do have an Instagram account, but have yet to use it: Dudley.toolwright. Thanks.
I just followed you and then put a tag on one of the vids. I think if you open up your account, it will tell you if you click on the "heart".
I have several of the identical cutter and many of the inserts. I have a video in which I am experimenting on steel using the cutter on a universal arbor I designed and make and sell. However I was just using the cheap aluminum inserts I had to see what would happen. These face mills are great however a person has to be aware of and have the capability of trueing some things up. For instance on your cutter you will find the outer diameter is BARELY bigger than what the inserts cut. What that means is that in a pocket situation the side of the cutter will crush chips as they slam through--I always spin down the cutter for at least .015 clearance. Also when inspecting the cutter on the surface plate the reference surfaces where the inserts butt up against were slightly catty wampus varying by .002 or so. On your inserts be aware there is a large massive wiper on the bottom about .100 long ALOT. you can simply dust that off skillfully with a diamond file so you dont have a huge amount dragging and smearing and exerting alot of vertical z force. yes only one insert produces the finish so if a person wants a fly cutter finish simply do it--take out the inserts except one like everyone does and scream the rpm--also knock of some of that wiper flat. I will be doing more videos..
I have several of the cutters and also a few big ones--one is over 3 inches diameter and is a beautiful cutter. Something people need to remember is that cutter being used can SCREAM across that block ten times faster than what you were doing--thats what its for!.. hobbiests such as in the comments almost invariably are obsessed with "flycutter and perfect surface concepts".. that shell mill is nothing but a mount for a carbide bit that you can sharpen and do as you please--YES A FLY CUTTER..
I really appreciate the insight. I was wondering about the potential for mediocre machining on these tools as a cause for crappy finish. The fact that you have measured such large differences in insert placement is telling. I will check out your videos.
Interesting. I had wondered what would happen if you only used 1 insert. I should have tried it, but was concerned about balance issues, but I guess all fly cutters would have that issue.
If they can chip off during shipping i wonder how long they can hold an edge when cutting.
Hard things are often brittle with little toughness. These inserts are definitely that and it means that they would likely perform poorly on interrupted cuts.
Looks ok , even with top end inserts, they never all seat equally. One or more inserts always stick down 0.001 or more even, giving it’s trademark pattern in your workpiece. My Sandvik 3” facemill has variation, but it’s a rougher. I guess flycut is your best bet for ultimate finish.
I have a strong suspicion you are correct. I have yet to try a fly cutter, but definitely need to. I also seem to knock my milling machine's head out of tram more often than I check it. Thanks for the comment.
I knew someone would say that. I have the same cutter and inserts but not the polished ones he used. The chipping barely matters at all. you can take a diamond when and sharpen the inserts.
I forgot to mention that I make my own universal arbors and the one I got with one of my cutters--the one you have was not r-8 it was morse 2. and that thing shook all over especially the center locating post--highly critical since it locates the concentricity of the inserts. However when roughing and using the cutter for fly cutter concept with one insert it honestly does not matter. Keep in mind that with a good feed like the cutter is designed for that EACH insert then takes a cut (but not on the z surface) . The runnout a person mentioned could easily be runout of the body--not the inserts.. The reason is because as I inspected on the surface plate with my indicator they did lose the relationship in places it did not matter--they went from different setups instead of spinning everything concentric--when you look at the reference for the inserts it MAY be concentric it will be close--however the outer body and things could be all over the place which is what I in fact found. Concentricity is not that important but it is to me because i often use cutters for ultra precision plunge milling of angled surfaces. In those cases I use one insert at high rpm because I cannot be plunging down and have different impacts producing 4 different surfaces. LOOK FOR MY VIDEOS TO START APPEARING.
Thanks. I appreciate the insight and am looking for your videos. I have cheapo face mill shells, so it is very possible that they were not precision machined. I'm sure there is a reason that the name brands are much more expensive, beyond the obvious.
Is alignment of your mill head OK? I can see that after face mill come out half way of the aluminum the face mill still produce chips.
You called it. Someone else recommended I check the tram and it was definitely off. Thanks for the observation. I appreciate the help.
Please teach newbies to turn off their cutters before touching the job. Lead by example. Xx
Good point. Thanks for a wise recommendation.
Great honest review. The packaging isn't great to say the least. Though I guess they do it to help their bottom line,it could come back to bite them in the end/sells. Thank you for sharing.
All my best.
Bobby
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
If the direction of travel makes a difference in surface finish, doesn't that suggest a look at head tram is in order? Your width of cut is well over the radius of the tool, so I'd think it isn't a case of climb vs. conventional cut.
I'm not seeing any 'cross cut' tool marks from the trailing side of the cutter. On my mills, that has pretty much meant my spindle tram is out.
Someone else sent me the same message and it turns out you were both correct. Both nod and tilt were off. Thanks for noticing and taking the time to let me know.
Suggest kerosene or WD40 for Al cutting. Pity about the shipping damage, but my experience with Asian suppliers is that they pay attention to feedback and improve their processes.
I think so. These guys have been very responsive so far.
Axial runout ... The shell mill Is bent or the insert pocket are bad machined
Thanks for the tips.
I have had similar experiences with cutting tools from Banggood. I commented to them; they excused themselves extensively, but learned nothing from it, because with my next order a few months later it was the same story. It also happened with other measuring materials. What is disappointing is, that one can comment, get loads of excuses and offers to return, but they learn nothing from it.
I have the same experience. I suspect that they figure that at the price point people will still buy. It is really sad that a small investment could yield a significant improvement.
happy to know that someone have good experiences with BANGGOOD!
Just received my Face Mill ....
... but ...
parcel contains only R8 adapter, Face mill and insert are missed ....
... no answer from customer service ...
Banggood, No No No, very bad
Wow, it is good to hear about how BangGood reacts to customer service complaints. I have received a few items for review and never received one, but I have purchased more than a dozen and gotten them all except for one set of gear cutters that was incomplete. They say they are making good, but I am more than a month out with only a tracking number to some foreign shipping company. I would like to hear from people that had good service as well, but people that are satisfied tend not to comment at all. That being said, there is no excuse for them not helping you with an incomplete order. I hope they make good. thanks for the comment.
Hi, a follow up...
not easy contact and REPLY customer service, but after open a Paypal case, I agreed for a partial refund and placed a new order for the missed parts.
... will see ...
This sounds like getting your issues resolved was harder than it should have been. I hope they are listening and making the appropriate changes. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
What is the max ap (depth) than use this inserts?,
I am not sure. They don't come packaged like ordinary inserts, rather free in a bag, which is one of my complaints. They don't list the specs. Other vendors of similar inserts say the depth is 0.05-2.50mm.
I wasn't really clear on this: was the carbide damaged in shipping? Confused
It is hard to say. They arrived that way, but because the inserts were shipped separately in a bag from the sealed box that is designed to hold them, I concluded that they might just store the inserts free in some kind of bin and count out 10 when they sell them. If so they are needlessly damaging pretty nice inserts because they don't want to store them in a protected manner. They are incredibly inexpensive compared to any of the big boys, so perhaps they can't afford to have much human interaction with the inserts and still keep the price down. I am not sure at all, but it seems a shame.
I think you should spend more time in a follow up video talking about packing, shipping damage and how that might effect the finished produced . . . rather than getting undamaged inserts and running a test with them. Much more informative to see how random insert damage might or might not affect finish. Real page turner
It looks to me like that facemill is runing out at least .01
Good observation. You are not the first to point this out. What I have since discovered, is that the locking bolts on my the head of my mill need to be tightened far more than I ever expected. In the past (including the point in time when this video was shot) I tightened the head bolts with a wrench to snug. I discovered that if I take any kind of medium bite with the mill, I am knocking my head back out of tram to the tune of 0.003-0.005". I need to figure out how much torque to apply on the 3 or 4 bolts to ensure a decent lock. I have a relatively inexpensive mill made in China, so I expect that the mating surfaces might be less than perfectly flat reducing the friction when locked or I simply lack the experience to know how much torque they need. Thanks for the great observation.
@@DudleyToolwright you Need to inspect a thread/torque chart . For any kind of thread there is a specified torque . Take new bolts of the same grade and torque them in relation of the thread diameter .... Example M6x1 grade 8.8 = 8.37/10.47 nm of torque
I'm from Italy and we use the metric system... And there is the thread/torque chart ... www.gberardi.com/info-tecniche/precarichi-e-coppie-di-serraggio/
I think there is a chart also for Imperial size thread and Imperial torque
The finish is poor because that cutter body is running out of true, which means one of the four tips is running higher than the other 3.
Put a dial indicator on the tip of the teeth to see the high one....it's all over the place, even the body is visibly running out.
To get the best out of a multi faceted tool like this one, it needs to run True with all of the tips seated and also running true to the body. Basic tool setting knowledge really. Its so obvious.
You would be better off using a single point fly cutting tool on a lightweight machine set up like this anyway. Much easier to get a surface finish too. You also need to clock the spindle perpendicular to the table,its on an angle.
EnglishTurbines Just think he wanted to bash the chinese for his lack of knowledge tbh.
You make excellent point. I really do need to do a more careful review. I had considered the point height consistency issue, but had too little experience to properly measure it.
@@DudleyToolwright These cutters will remove metal faster than a Fly utter. However, if it's surface finish and or flatness that's important, the single point Fly utter is a better choice. Like when skimming Cylinder Blocks or Heads....🤔😏🇬🇧
the empty box isn't a new one but is a pretty weird business practice, I didn't imagine my box was sent like that at the time but there's no other possibility really.
I was very confused as well. A little bit of effort could prevent quite a lot of damage. I would happily pay more for the extra labor.
There's nothing wrong with using these are roughing inserts and aluminium inserts usually last and exceptionally long time
Fair point. I didn't throw them away. It was just a shame that they couldn't deliver what I believe were perfect inserts from the factory.
Those speeds are for steel
Thanks for the input. I really appreciate that.
VERY GOOD
Thank you! Cheers!
It's running out so much that only one tip is cutting and the feed rate is too slow.
Thanks for the tip. I appreciate the observation.
I started three years ago, never touched a mill in my life. Now I have a great business with several mills, 7 employees and a TON of experience. My advice. The name brands may be more expensive but in the long run they are cheaper. Lost productivity, poor surface finish, very short life span due to low quality. Spend the extra few bucks and get the good stuff, it pays off in the long run.
Same goes with endmills. Buy the good stuff and revel in the long life, smooth finish and increased productivity.
I have noticed this myself. I bought a set of Chinese carbide endmills in a large range of sizes, but the diameters are way off and the chip easily. Sometimes, for someone who may only use a tool a few times it is not worth the investment. I have limited funds and have to pick and choose what to buy. I do however, really appreciate the pointer and others can benefit from your ideas, so thanks.
Congratulations on your success, I’ve never touched a mill or lathe myself I have some ideas for some products that I will be making, it will be more artisanal than industrial though, what does your company make if you don’t mind me asking? I’m thinking about making my own business but I don’t know how to go about it.
@@fluffyhead6377 I was in the same boat. Actually bought a HAAS VF4-SS and rented a shop with no idea what I was going to make. A friend came by and I was working on his computer (I worked in IT for years). I saw a need for a product so I invented it. Using my product you can increase the speed of your computer. Very popular with gamers as it also increases keyboard and mouse response. We've sold millions of dollars worth of product and have not spent one dime on advertising.
How to go about it? Find a need and fill it. Come up with a new product no one has seen before. Just be sure and trademark it or the chinese will steal it. They stole my idea and sell it for $10 less but their quality is crap.
Don't underestimate Kickstarter. Flood them with new products. Just look at the guy who made a slightly different box cutter. He raked in like $800,000, another made a spinning top and pulled in $125,000. Those kinds of numbers help a lot when getting started.
Jack Flash wow that is amazing well done, I have a unique idea Im scared to tell anyone about it in case of theft like you said, the trusted family members I told about it all said it should of been invented years ago, thanks for your advice.
Jack Flash so what was your thinking when renting a shop without a product idea? That seems pretty strange, Was it to teach yourself to use machinery? I’ve always had an inventive mind it’s only now I’m in my late 20s that I’m starting to buy tools and have converted my garage into a workshop so I can work on a few ideas, I’m guessing you started in a similar way?
Why they would ship them that way is hard to understand. We know Banggood is just random Chinese stuff from random Chinese manufacturers that they put their name on, usually, not even on the tooling but on the box. But still,, even though it might be a bit cheaper, it still doesn’t make sense. But good test.
I totally agree.
They were rejected by manufacturer. That’s why they cheap . I have brought some inserts and boring bars . All inserts were damaged.
That might explain the prices. Interesting perspective.
The Aluminium Cutting Carbide Inserts from BangGood is a FAIL mate.
Thanks for the feedback. I haven't had any major issues yet, but haven't had them long enough to really see what life expectancy they have. If you have had issues, I would love to hear about them. Thanks for the comment.
10 scrap inserts.
It is unfortunate, isn't it?
They no good how ship. My ones I had junk it. It not worth it
Thanks for the feedback. They certainly did not care about protecting the cutters during shipping with mine either.
You can get them cheaper than that from the mfg, just search ebay.
Thanks, I appreciate the suggestion.
cutter head wobbler .
Inexpensive often equals subpar.
NEVER touch the work with the machine running !!!!!!! Count your fingers.....& stop teaching bad habits for newbies. Your vice may need to be indicated better, level with mill head.
Thanks for the good advise. Safety first.
Like really......they are dirt cheap buddy.....go buy "Sanvic" inserts at 10 times the price.......Then replace your holder...$$$$$$$$ for a good one.........then get a decent mill....where do you stop???
You point is well taken. I try to find inexpensive tooling that is still well made to help myself and others out. I comment negatively if the tool is total crap or if a little bit of effort could, in this case, get the parts delivered in manufactured state. Putting the inserts in a bag for a long overseas trip caused transit damage that was unnecessary. I would pay a bit more for tools delivered in the same state they left the factory in. Thanks for your comments.
Hi, and thanks for the reply. Unexpected. I do like your videos and genuinely thank you for your time and effort in producing them. I guess I just get a bit sick of China bashing. They are what they are at the price point. I agree with you that there could be a little more care.......but it all costs AND we, as the customer, seem always to want "something for nothing".
On a lighter note, you could get one of their (Chinesium) "dodgey" diamond wheels ($8-20) put it on your little grinder, make an adjustable jig to hold the insert and resharpen or modify them - tip radius/relief etc.. Make a great video. Thank you again.
Cheers, from Australia,
David
Thank you for the tips and watching. I always appreciate it. If you happen by some of my other reviews, you will find that I have been quite positive about a bunch of tools from Asia. I am a firm believer that they build what the market wants. Both of my main machines are from China or Taiwan and I couldn't be happier. They are both great quality and a good deal. Thanks again and Cheers.
Itis not sandvic but sandvik. it is swedish.