Framing A Basement Wall
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- Опубликовано: 24 май 2011
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Shannon from www.house-improvements.com shows you the steps to framing a basement wall. 
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Thank you very much for your videos. They have been very helpful! I am getting ready to finish my basement that I gutted last year. Although I think I am just going to use rigid foam board insulation instead of batting and then frame out the walls. Your videos on these subjects have been excellent!
Thanks Shanon for all these videos, your explanation is awesome and very helpful.
Always enjoy all your videos, keep that good work.
Thanks for this video. I could not seem to find anything on finishing with a full wall if you have the concrete half wall. I am building a garage and due to slope, one side will have a 6 foot concrete half wall, so the half wall would make a ledge I really don't want because it would be over 6 feet high. This is exactly the info I needed!
I remember a time when you could get straight 2x4's from the lumber store. The last time I made a purchase I had to really dig for them.
I think what you are refering to is the poly plastic moisture barrier that I have behind the wall framing. It is to help prevent moisture that comes through the concrete from coming in contact with the insulation. If your framing is already in place it would be hard to install that poly now. painting the concrete wall with a moisture barrier would help.
I need a video on the blocking up top!! another obstacle is my cold air return is covering the outside of the joist
Ideally yes you wanna keep that moisture out from the outside but over time if ,or when cracks form or if your exterior drainage system starts to fail this is your back up. An interior moisture barrier is actually a requirement in the NBC.What you are referring to is the air/vapour barrier and it is placed on the warm side of the wall just under the wall finish on exterior walls.
For this video we used a Kodak point-and-shoot camera, model M1093. Although since then, we've used an iPhone and now we have a higher end consumer type camcorder. The videos we put out now are higher quality, with better audio & lighting as well. Thanks.
You were so much help...Thanks
Interesting. It is a good idea.
Yes framing 24" O.C. would be ok , I like 16" O.C. as I feel it gives a more solid wall. You can use a sill gasket or the foam for sure. The gasket will form to the floor better because it is not as ridged. Nail the plate into the joists with 2 nails every 3- 4 feet. You absolutely can measure from your first plumb stud.
Nice work.
Build a bulkhead for your pipes after the wall is framed. Basically just frame the area you need to cover them and only it will be 6 " from the wall or what ever you need.
Thanks for the vid! What length nails would I need to do the toe nailing of 2x4's?
Great video. So much more clear than anything out there. One question though, Im framing a room in the basement. So should I be leaving an inch or something at the top or bottom to account for any shifts in the ground so the walls dont bow. If so, how do I do that? Is that needed?
Great video , wish you would of touched base on the pink installation (what type) anything special behind it and how you ran you pasic barrier .. i see there's not any at the bottom , I'm sure that helps with airflow and keeping things dry .. Did you run Electrical outlets above that center run , or in front of the plasic toward the bottom
Hi Shannon thanks for your videos they have been extremely useful! I'm working on an attic project and so will be mounting the top and bottom plates first like you did in this one. My question is, can I nail the top plate through the existing lathe and plaster or do I need to remove it where the top plate will be attached to the rafters? Thanks again!
wonderful
Shannon , Love the videos. You are a good craftsman. You are my go to guy when doing various home improvement tasks. Keep up the good videos.
OK, ask another home builder, the plastic sheet is to stop moisture in the interior air from moving thru the drywall or paneling and condensing on the cold side (Outer) of the insulation reducing its effectiveness. the cement wall which is likely to be below grade or close to the grade must be waterproofed from the outside and preferably a gravel back-fill and perforated pipe drain are located outside that cement wall and its waterproofing membrane to keep all soil moisture out. two different membranes and two different purposes. Because that fiberglass and exterior stud framed exterior wall section above the masonry wall is there, an interior barrier is needed to help keep the fiberglass dry in the upper section, just as is done in the walls in the living space above the basement...
No offence taken at all, have you read some of these comments? I have gotten a thicker skin since starting this endeavour . LOL I myself have started using pressure treated plates as well, just makes sense. It is not code in my area but some day it may be. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the video -- have you seen buildingscience's writeup on poly vapor barriers and mold growth when insulating basement walls?
Shannon, any suggestions for where to place bottom plate if concrete wall is not perfectly straight and what about if ceiling joists above have variations in height
The person Operating the Camera does a nice job following along, You mind if I ask what kind of Camera your using, It takes nice video.
How do you frame a wall in that's between the joists? Do you screw in 2x4's between the closest joists and then use that as the upper attachment?
Great video, thanks Shannon. When you have an interior perimeter French drain, would you put down the subfloor or frame walls first. How would you put your base plate on the thin concrete? Or would you frame on top of subfloor? Thanks
Please use our forum. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Thank goodness for
Hey...when framing a wall, how do you know when and when not to put that plastic stuff under the wall frame?....and what size nails are in that framing gun
do you typically frame walls in basement at 16" or 24" on centre?
I see insulation already inserted before the framing. Question: After you framed as seen in video , do you insert more insulation or you just install drywall? Basically, what comes next after framing considering the existing insulation? Thanks
Hi- I'm planing to change my basement walls from wood panels to sheetrock, i was wondering about the white plastic foil you're using , what is it for ? Also do you suggest of paining the inside walls with some type of water proof sealant ?
Hi Shannon - Love these videos. I'm in the process of planning finishing basement. Seen some other videos on you tube regarding fire blocking. What are your thoughts on fire blocking. Is this really required?
Thanks!
That depend on where you live as to what they require. Please use our forum for more assistance if you need it. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
For a wall longer than 8', do you connect a plate to the bottom plates?
How long of nails should I be using for toe nailing? I have 3 1/4" and can't sink them all the way in.
good video thanks, couple of questions:
Some people use moisture barrier, like you, others use tannelised lumber. Pros and Cons? The barrier is obviously comprimised where youve anchored to the concrete, does that matter?
You have a huge gap between wall and plates/studs - is that necessary? I thought an inch is ok
Box the pipes in,you need the wall a minimum of 1 inch away from the basement wall. So if you can frame the wall in place behind the pipe then make a frame to go around the pipes, that would probably be your only other option other than leaving hem exposed...
Hey Shannon I am trying to decide after watching video for floating wall and then this one attached to floor above. By cutting the wall studs 1/16th shorter and placing in with a little friction on the exterior walls there should'nt be any issue with floor above? Thanks!!
what about spacing between either the floor or the joists? Floating walls since the slab does shift..
In that case, any flooring (other than carpet) that you put in after it is framed will be jacked up right? So you should use a self-leveling floor compound before framing it in my opinion...
I liked your videos, you explain all things very well. I have one question as I am making improvements in my crawl space. I want to know if I can use Anabec X 70 mold killer myself or I should hire someone? Please let me know. Thanks
I am not familiar with that product , I would contact the manufacture for advice.
what is allowed will depend on your local building code... however i suggest to always place studs (2x4 and 2x6) at 16" centers (NEVER 24") .. yes, even for non bearing walls.
As for the gasket under the wall... 100% correct... and do not use solid foam insulation.
Do you apply any more insulation within the new wall studs or is thete another route? Thanks
Hey Shannon, great video. I have learned alot watching your videos. I do have a question and I do not recall if you had mentioned it or not but what is the measurement from the wall? when doing framing? is there a certain measurement that is needed for weather changes and possible expansion?
No ,really no set measurement. I usually use 1/2" to 1" to allow for un-plumbed, un-straight and un-smooth concrete walls
Thank you sir:) so now I have another question. I have a wood subfloor, it is a new house my wife and I purchased just recently. The house has a unfinished basement so that is where my project is, should I use liquid nails to help set my bottom plate to give it that extra security I guess would be the way to describe it?
Hello, whats your take on making basement walls, floating, I usually see most installers not doing this and its fine same as myself some people think you have to, whats your opinion? Thanks
FInally found a video on how to build a wall piece by piece! Adding a bedroom in the basement and I have no room to lay the frame on floor due to space constraints. One question I have is what was used to make sure the bottom and top place are lined up and square? I have a 6' level and 94" height walls.
Mark the line out on the floor where you want the wall and use your level and a 2x4 cut to length to transfer those lines up to the ceiling . Then you can attach your plates along the lines.
Hello, i am wondering how to frame my basement walls where there are drain pipes running horizontally. Seems kinda waste of space to build the wall 6-7 inches away from the concrete just to hide the pipes. Suggestions?
Shannon, I am using the Form Insulate , is the Moisture Barrier Installation still needed? or good idea to have it install anyway ?
rigid foam is good.
Thanks Shannon! Can you help me with a quandary?? I had an interior perimeter drain and sump installed a couple years ago, and the basement has been bone dry ever since despite torrential rains. Now I would like to install walls. The B-Dry basement people told me that I can't nail anything on their perimeter drain (which extends about 1' out from the wall) and that I should use an adhesive for the bottom plate. The folks from Liquid Nails said that I can use their adhesive, but the bottom plate would need to be mechanically fastened on both ends. I don't want to do anything to void my lifetime B-Dry warranty.....will adhesive alone work? Or do you have a better idea?
+NIcholas Smith : I had the same situation once, and I used the dri-core flooring to go over that, and then secure the wood framing ono that--it's a better solution since the wood is never in contact with the floor etc. and drainage is free to flow below the dri-core floor if required. These panels have a plastic checkerplate surface underneath and strand board on top that is tongue and groove.
I actually do not disagree. If you do a poor job of insulating you could get condensation on the plastic and that is why the moisture barrier is not totally sealed like a air/ vapour barrier. This allows the wall space to breath to the exterior like it is supposed to.You can also get condensation and frost on the inside of a cold concrete wall with no moisture barrier.I did not invent the use of poly as a moisture barrier, this does meet minimum code. The use of sprayfoam or ridged foam are best
so you screwed the bottom plate to the concrete with screws and anchors, what about the upper plate? it stays suspended just like that? you dont screw it to the beams or something else?
hey Shannon, is it any harm using pressure treated wood for your bottom plates? I know it use to be in the 90's because of Arsonic being in the wood, but is that still the case anymore??hope not because I've already laid down 4 plates with PT wood!!
They work fine.
How do you fire block this type of wall?
should i frame the wall first then proceed to place the panal subfloor or do the osb subflloor first then insulate and frame the basement walls?
I don’t get what your question is about
Ah, I see. Thanks!
In most States the floor plates have to be treated wood even if you have the Vapor barrier under the floor plates, That is Code, With no treated floor plates the building inspector will make you tear it out and start over,
Pressure treated still rot and get mold if wet..
Are you using Pressure treated wood for the bottom plates in this video?
I did not because there is poly under my bottom plate keeping it off the concrete.
I am looking at building a small room against two walls in a basement. However, the basement ceiling is a wreck and it is a manufactured home with steel joists. My question is can I just build up close to the ceiling (about 6 inches from the mess) and put a light drop ceiling in? Thanks
Sounds like you could.
HouseImprovements thanks man
On the upper half of the wall the framing comes out away from the insulation. Do you you have to add more insulation so that the drywall and insulation are touching each other
No, as long as the existing insulation is not going to fall out of place over time
I think if you changed the styro to at least 1-1/2" and did not use the poly 6mm sheeting would be better.
HouseImprovements nes
Again "spicy" what you see me install here is a moisture barrier not an air/vapour barrier.
Always stud 16 on center, do not put a vapor barrier behind the studs, and crown should always go out.
As for the air/vapor barrier being a requirement (by code): This is true everywhere that i know of in USA and Canada and most of the modern/developed world that experiences cold weather, however your use and placement of the vapor barrier is wrong. concrete walls are not covered with plastic! Ideally, first a layer of foam insulation (amount will depend on the R value that may be required by code in your particular area) is placed against the concrete, then the framing will go up after that. >>>
how do you attach that bottom plate to the concrete?
ruclips.net/video/evo3IWwEt-g/видео.html
What make and model nail gun are you using?
+L Francis Paslode CF325
Ok looks like you got your underwear in a knot over this topic.LOL I totally agree with you.. fix the problem from the outside ...once you realize there is a problem. A good way of realizing you have a problem is wet flooring not a wet insulated wall that you may not have a clue about for some time.
What type of Poly did you use?
It must be a 6mil poly approved for use as a vapour barrier
Thank you!
Are you using 8D (2.5”) size for toenailing?
10D 3"
Could you please explain me. In this video you didn't complete this wall to the left corner????
In this case all that needed was to add a 2x4 to the left wall to finish this wall.
thank you
Hi. I got a question. I know how frame walls but I don't know how many can I charge for doing them. I hope you can help me and how can I do my estimate .. Thanks.
+Genaro Delgado The cost of labour is so different everywhere . You will just have to figure out how long it will take and what you need to make. Its a learning curve for everyone when you start out.
You really don't have to worry about shear strength of using screws in basement walls. The walls are not for supporting joists or trusses (unlike main floor walls) and therefore there is very little deflection in the walls. Basically, basement walls are only meant for the drywall and receptacles to be attached too.
If you are in Canada, you can watch Mike Holmes and Bryan Baelmer use screws almost entirely when framing basement walls.
I rather use what Shannon is using. A Paslode nailer
Eye protection?
>>> Again, if you have water permeating any foundation wall, it must ALWAYS be repaired from the outside. There are many ways to cover a concrete foundation properly, however placing plastic directly over the concrete is WRONG! both sides of the plastic must be equal in temperature or condensation will form (condensation = mold and rot). this is why the cold zone is always insulated and the plastic is placed on the warm side of the insulation. If you disagree, give details & we will discuss.
You look old as sh*t in your profile pic. Im almost certain you're dead now.
safety glasses with a paslode shooting gun?
Building the wall in place will take forever, why not get your stuf height and all and just build it on the floor and lift it into place. Also, why didn't you run furring first? Is the basement not being finished? Cause now you will have to put a nailer at the top of that wall if you decide to sheet-rock
Why do you not double plate the top in the basement like you did in your other video where you built a demonstration wall?
Some people are double plating top and bottom for basements. Is that overkill? I am stick framing my basement as well since that floors are not perfect. Thank you
Double plating a non load bearing wall in a basement is not needed. Some areas require floating the basement walls and it is usually done by having two bottom plates. See my video on framing floating basement walls.
Thanks for the great video. Very informative. I have a question about adding blocking. I have floor trusses in my basement that look like this - blog.armchairbuilder.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Floor-Trusses-2.JPG. The problem is that the concrete wall is taller than the height of the horizontal floor joists. So, I do not know how to install blocking that sits on the concrete wall, is level and attach it to the floor joist. Any ideas? Thanks.
please use my forum for this question ,I can help you from there.
www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Why are you not putting your studs in at 16 inches on center? Just curious...
Annony Mouse I prefer the 16" O.C for the extra strength it gives the drywall surface.
HouseImprovements Ok, but the studs in this video are not 16 inches apart. I realize 24 still works with a 4x8 sheet of plywood but just curious why you chose 24 over 16 inch span.
Once again "Spicy" this is wrong in "your opinion". When my clients don't have the budget for sprayfoam or ridged foam this passes code in my Canadian location.
First you didn't use pressure treated for the floor plate. Regardless if you have it on plastic, moisture will get in through the holes if there is any. And why is that so far from the corner?
Good job..., but...:are you sure, that plastic is done correct....like that?? Why not to use pressure treated board at the bottom??Put it in with liquid nails and anchors?? just wondering....
+Eero Laukkanen That is the moisture barrier you see against the concrete wall not the vapour barrier. The moisture barrier runs down between the bottom plate and concrete to isolate the wood from the concrete so no PT lumber is needed. If that was not the case then P.T or other treated lumber or other product like foam gasket would be needed.
+HouseImprovements according to code any wood in direct contact with the basement floor must be pressure treated I believe
yes, Danny I agree!!!
I would argue this is not in direct contact with the floor as the plastic is the direct contact (just a guess)
Isn't there any building engineers reading these posts?? Just wondering....;o) Need some answers here......
just get standard studs... you don't need anything special. just hand pick them for straightness. If you see finger jointed studs, i personally have never been a fan of the finger jointed studs, but that is my personal choice. when HD only has the finger jointed studs, i just go buy at another hardware store.
My Intention Was Not To Criticize you, If you took it that way, Im sorry, I know a guy in the State of Minnesota that finniest his basement and he did use treated wood for the floor plates in 3 rooms but he ran short and finished one of the rooms with out it, When the building inspector came, He told him he's Not buying it off, so he had to tear one room out and start over, Your Videos are good, Just a suggestion, Tell your viewer to check with Their local building codes,
MH is well respected but even he can not deny that this meets code, wether you and MH agree or not. You do not seem to yet understand that this is not vapour barrier as you keep refering to it.
The vapor barrier that been put up over the concrete is going to build up moisture and create mold and mildew behind it, not good.
A moisture barrier is required in my area over the concrete below ground. Poly is one accepted product we can use.
@@HouseImprovements I live in western MA on the VT line and when I did my Man Cave the local inspector made me put Owens Corning foam Formula R 3 inch on the concrete. ? Not saying what you did isn't correct, because that's what I was going to do. He told me that the plastic over the concrete would form moisture and eventually you would have mold and mildew.
@@Yellowowleye Yes rigid foam is another product commonly used.
Do you really have worry about the shear strength of a screw in a basement?
actually, this does not meet code everywhere. perhaps your location has not suffered enough from problems to force changes in your area's codes. and as for it not being a vapor barrier, ok, we wont call it that... but you are creating an area for mold and condensation to form. so the end result... the city says it is within minimum code, and you the builder can collect your check and walk away... several years later it is the home owner who must pay to tear it all out if mold occurs.
I know this is obviously a very late comment and you point out the flaws but you don't say what to do as the correct way so for people-watching you're just creating doubt
@@staceymenheart8353 - Spicy is dead now. No more problem.
Safety goggles--again please remind people--otherwise good demo!
Absolutely! I cringe every time I see someone demonstrating a nail gun or other power tool without any safety glasses.
One eye Pete here. DiTto !
I have noticed that you are all about introducing new products, whether they work or not. I prefer an air compressor and air tools to do the job. Why do the job twice with the wrong tools when you can do the job right the first time with the right proven tools.... OLD SCHOOL
Your attitude destroys your points first of all. That's cool you prefer the air compressor stuff, but for people who don't have those, his tools will work.
To this point I do not think I have introduced any cutting edge new products. All of these items are readily available and been out for some time in most areas. Just because air nailers where a break through after years of using a hammer to frame does not mean that there are no other options. I show what I use , I am not trying to sell any of this stuff. Thanks for your comment though.
Texas Confederate I don't think a compressor and air tool is old school you ignoramus
Texas Confederate did you play with lead paint and power lines like the OLD SCHOOL days?
moisture barrier a no no, harbors mold.
NO...ALWAYS 16" on center
not only my opinion... also Mike Holmes of Holmes on Homes would strongly agree with me and loudly disagree with you. it is our opinion that what you are doing is WRONG because we have had to repair the damages caused by this incorrect way of installing vapor barrier. if your customer cannot afford to have this done correctly, then i am sure they cannot afford the damages and massive costs to tear it all out when mold has become a health issue and things have started to rot.
Please ignore what "HouseImprovements" has said... he is very very wrong... see my recent comments.
Not "Ideally". if you have water coming in through your foundation walls, there is only one way to proceed... fix the problem from the outside. here are the facts: if you cover concrete as you have shown in your video, you will grow mold! and if you have moisture coming in through you concrete foundation and you cover the wall with plastic, the moisture will gather and flow down the foundation wall and emerge under your flooring... and will grow mold and will likely cause any wood to rot!