I can definitely second that. It seems to be one of the smoother systems on the market. My only complaint is how tall the entire system is. It would not hurt it to be a little more compact now that I have got some use with it.
Oh yeah I forgot about it. We have those two poles and a cable to hold the tree up. Dad just couldn’t let it fall because of the hard lean. The ground is rising on the backside
I have done some research on this, and many seem to agree that a steel carabiner is ok in these side load situations. I only use a 50kN double auto locking carabiner for this application. However there is also a carabiner on the market now that is made to be side-loaded. It could be considered as well. I use a carabiner because it is much quicker to clip on than many other things, and time is definitely money.
@@rambotreeman5274 I mean yeah 50 kn is plenty strong. Is it going to break/fail on yuh? Probably not but even double action carabiners can o open, especially when pressed against the trunk like that. Also its best to use equipment as per manufacturer specifications. As far as I know most all carabiners are designed to be loaded length wize. Not side loaded. Im an ISA certified Arborist myself and can tell yuh its not OSHA oprooved though it is much quicker/ easier. I will have to look into those new carbiners you mentioned🤙
Same method just without a neck lanyard. Neck lanyard not needed for MRS. I just hook up the ankle and knee ascender the same way and walk up. Only problem is it’s way slower
On stationary rope you can set a number of redirects without the need for removing your tie in point altogether and if you deploy the “Texas tug” method you can pull your rope out quite easily in the end, There is a mis conception that working a tree double rope is easier but it’s a myth when you understand how to effectively and efficiently use all the advantages SRT has to offer. I still use MRT method on some smaller climbs without a true central leader for a good high tie in would warrant SRT in the 1st place. I feel that those who are unwilling to learn how to work a tree on stationary rope and only use it for an ascend and than immediately switch to a moving rope system are doing themselves a disservice and are unwilling to fully accept that SRT is the future and has its place alongside MRT! It’s for more than just fast and easy ascents if you understand how to use its advantages for so much more imo (like setting a redirect of your climb line directly above where you’re working without completely resetting your tie-in point like In MRT to avoid taking a big swing and then pulling it out when finished to move throughout w/o losing your original high tie-In like w/MRT)!
I use this and im not a slim jim like you no offence but it works it holds my weight i even left out in rainy weather for 3 weeks and its never failed me
can you tell me what is your high anchor in the tree for your SRT ascent at the beginning of the video ? I don't undertand why the right part of the rope is not moving ....
The rope is basically tied at the top. There is a steel carabiner at the top that makes a cinch knot around the limb so that the right side is basically just a long tail from the knot that helps to retrieve it. If I pull the right side down, the knot will come down so I can untie it. The traditional method is just to forget the knot and tie the right side to the base of the tree. However, this puts double the load on the limb above. Using the tie at the top cuts the stationary rope load in half compared to tying it at the base of the tree. Make any sense?
@@blackheart9068 I have a rope runner pro and it almost always stays in my bag. Unless you have a brand new and super smooth rope, the rope runner is just rough and jumpy. The zigzag is always smooth as butter no matter how much pine sap or whatever is in my rope.
The knee ascender makes it literally twice as fast. Totally would recommend for long ascents, but for shorter distances it isn’t really worth the hassle. I can make a video on the couple knee ascenders I have if it is something you would like to see. Just let me know.
@@angelRodriguez-iu6xn I use the recommended one from Petzl that is an “H” frame. The oval, D, or William carabiners will all work from petzl because they have the H frame that fits in the zigzag groove. As long as your snap is double auto locking it doesn’t have to be H frame, but the H keeps everything upright for the chicane so it doesn’t flop around.
Good info. Is the Petzl ZigZag primarily a descending system and not meant as a rope grab safety system? I ask because you stated the weight limitation of the ZigZag, and that seemed rated too light to be considered a rope grab safety system.
I believe the official standard is a maximum of a 6 foot fall on the zigzag system. It was not specifically designed to be a rope grab, and I would not use it in that capacity. The 6 foot is just in case you need some extra inches of wiggle room--it is not intended to be used regularly.
This is the rope --bishco.com/yale-scandere-11-7mm-climbing-line-120-length/ It is no longer sold in stores, but there are a few left online. The total cost would be somewhere around $150 for my rope because it is a 150' with one splice. The petzl zigzag is $310 ------ The chicane is $150 Somewhat pricy system, but when you use it regularly to make money, it is worth it.
But after a few months of removals and such with the system, I find myself not using the chicane very often at all. It takes too much time to utilize, so I usually just go MRS.
@@rambotreeman5274 yea i got the chicane after just using the zigzag for 6 months coming from a blakes hitch its not bad but the chicane gets in the way
The suspenders are just some random clearance suspenders that I found at Lowes or something. I put a carabiner to hook them on the single middle rear link, and on the front, the loops are just slipped around my waist belt. Definitely not rated for life support but helps keep the saddle up when I have a big chainsaw and I don’t want to cut off circulation with the waist belt.
Im newer to tree work. have yet to try climbing on a rope system at all (only ladders so far and i cant wait to swtch!) Whats the advantage of achoring up in the tree? How do you get it down when youre done? Cause it seems like achoring at the base of the tree makes more sense i guess.
This is something that will be specific to your job. Lately I only use SRS (stationary rope system) for ascent into the canopy. If I am working, I will always switch to MRS (moving rope system). The only benefit to anchoring up in the tree on SRS is it cuts the load on the limb in half. When you anchor at the base of the tree there are 2 legs of rope that are both in tension away from the limb that you are anchored on. That means the force on the limb is DOUBLE your body weight. Anchoring from the limb means only one leg of rope is under tension and the force on the limb is equal to your body weight. If you notice at the very beginning of the video, there is another leg of rope in my hand. That side of the rope will bring down my anchor that is on the limb. Basically I tie a butterfly knot in the rope and use a carabiner to cinch it to the limb. So one side of the rope is anchored and the other side can be used to retrieve the anchor.
@@thewood9717 By the industry standard, a carabiner is not advised. So my official response is NO. Carabiners should only be used in situations that they have been tested for. Side loading is not tested for most carabiners and should not be used. However, on very large diameter limbs, I sometimes use the steel carabiner because it is quicker and is rated for 50kN. The quickie is designed and tested for this application, but I tend to just use what I have since I am reasonably sure that it will produce the desired results
My left leg has the HAAS knee ascender. It comes with a blue strap to go around the foot, but I purchased a separate foot loop and just attached a carabiner to put them together.
Yes you can, but I would not recommend it. Longer distances become very tiring on a MRS system. You will have to pull twice the rope. If it’s a short distance I would just use a single ankle ascender because it is quick and easy to attach. But for longer distances, the stationary rope will be much more efficient
@@rambotreeman5274 thanks for the reply I have a couple trees only need to get up about 35 feet to trim lower branches and wasn't trying to go crazy buying an ankle knee and chicane
@@rambotreeman5274 if I got a pretzel hand and foot ascender. and the moving part of rope is on my right side of zig zag. which hand and which side foot ascender should I get?
@@strykerv1620 The foot side you get is personal preference. I don't know how many left-footed ascenders there are, but all the ones I have seen are right-footed. There is no need for a hand ascender. It will just get in your way. Just grab the moving rope side above the zig-zag and pull down while standing up on your ascending foot.
Hey man quick question if you're only killing trees not pruning what device would you have on you for safety and if you need to get down quickly??? I used to use a first gen petzl Grigri but cant find them anymore...i use 12mm rope for climb amd work...
I use the zigzag in MRS config for removals too. It’s my go to for almost everything. However I also typically use spikes and a lanyard too if the tree is all coming down. For safety purposes, I always carry a good ol fashioned figure 8 to slide down in emergency if my other descender breaks. If you’re looking for something similar to the gri gri, maybe try the spiderjack? I never liked the gri gri in the first place, but let me know if you have any more questions about all that
If you notice the other leg of rope that I am not climbing on-that is the retrieval side. When the system is unloaded, just pull that side and the whole system will come right out.
Ok so I will start with the rope. I have a yale scandere rope. It is something like 11.7mm, but I do not recommend it. I would get something with lower stretch like a kernmantle. I do not have tons of experience with these, but the times I have used them I really like the ultra-low stretch. Saddle--teufelberger tree motion (like 7 years old) not evo or light. I use the full size My shoulder straps are home-made. They are not for life support, but they allows me to loosen the belt strap a little and still carry a big chainsaw. Steel 50kN carabiner double auto lock for redirect and anchoring speedline choker on aluminum double auto lock carabiner. Many uses including redirects and getting out of a jam. camp turbofoot ascender gets the job done. Very basic. I like the CT quick step better because it locks haas knee ascender. Modified to allow a separate foot loop and carabiner attachment elastic saw lanyard. I like how it shortens when there is no stress. It claims to allow breakaway in the event your saw gets pinched. However I cannot get it to break. It is very strong. Learn to saw correctly before getting in a tree. You do not need a breakaway if you know how to use a chainsaw. Blood stopper first aid kit. Mostly for looks. I have seen people add tourniquet for these which would be useful. CMI shembiner hook. This is a convenient accessory. I love how easy it is to use and how well it integrates. For the longest time I just had a carabiner with the gate cut off. But this is much more efficient. Cable lanyard for spikes and rope lanyard for hardwoods. I have a rockgrab on these and I believe they are both about 8' long. Extra figure 8 for getting out of a bind. I always use the zigzag. And I usually carry the chicane especially for removals. Silky Zubat hand saw integrates nicely on my tree motion saddle. It often comes in clutch when I need it
How you keeping the knee ascender from running into the zig zag? I got Klein knee ascender I’m rigging to work. Knee ascender rams into the zig zag. This Klein set up is new for me.
This rope is the Yale Scandere. I do not believe that it is manufactured anymore, but we were able to find one on a less common tree care equipment website. My brother has one and he liked it, so we got another.
@@jwillshenanigans9007 while still a static rope, it is a little more stretchy than Blue moon or xtatic. But I like it. runs RR Pro very nicely and all the hitch cords I have tried on it.
You actually killed the explanation of all that! Great work man! Loved it!!!
That was a good demo for us that know nothing about that type of rigging system.
Good deal man glad you liked it
Nice video I have an older zig zag on blue moon and it works well. The chicane, is very smooth going up SRT/SRS. Best way to get up to the canopy
I can definitely second that. It seems to be one of the smoother systems on the market. My only complaint is how tall the entire system is. It would not hurt it to be a little more compact now that I have got some use with it.
Cool, the zigzag is one of the slickest climbing devices in my opinion.
An Alpine butterfly knot and fee👍d the rope through it and you will have a retrieval canopy anchor
Well done. Thanks for the to the point explanation.
Holy giant tree support Batman! Thanks for the great review and explanation.
Oh yeah I forgot about it. We have those two poles and a cable to hold the tree up. Dad just couldn’t let it fall because of the hard lean. The ground is rising on the backside
Great video, simple explanation taught me what I need to buy! keep up the good work!
Very informative.
Nice vid! I would us a pinto pully or slick pin for the canopy anchor though. Avoid side loading carabiners like that .
I have done some research on this, and many seem to agree that a steel carabiner is ok in these side load situations. I only use a 50kN double auto locking carabiner for this application. However there is also a carabiner on the market now that is made to be side-loaded. It could be considered as well. I use a carabiner because it is much quicker to clip on than many other things, and time is definitely money.
@@rambotreeman5274 I mean yeah 50 kn is plenty strong. Is it going to break/fail on yuh? Probably not but even double action carabiners can o open, especially when pressed against the trunk like that. Also its best to use equipment as per manufacturer specifications. As far as I know most all carabiners are designed to be loaded length wize. Not side loaded. Im an ISA certified Arborist myself and can tell yuh its not OSHA oprooved though it is much quicker/ easier. I will have to look into those new carbiners you mentioned🤙
Wery usefull and easy to understand 👍
How are you climbing in MRS.. you didn’t show it.. thanks
Same method just without a neck lanyard. Neck lanyard not needed for MRS. I just hook up the ankle and knee ascender the same way and walk up. Only problem is it’s way slower
On stationary rope you can set a number of redirects without the need for removing your tie in point altogether and if you deploy the “Texas tug” method you can pull your rope out quite easily in the end, There is a mis conception that working a tree double rope is easier but it’s a myth when you understand how to effectively and efficiently use all the advantages SRT has to offer. I still use MRT method on some smaller climbs without a true central leader for a good high tie in would warrant SRT in the 1st place. I feel that those who are unwilling to learn how to work a tree on stationary rope and only use it for an ascend and than immediately switch to a moving rope system are doing themselves a disservice and are unwilling to fully accept that SRT is the future and has its place alongside MRT! It’s for more than just fast and easy ascents if you understand how to use its advantages for so much more imo (like setting a redirect of your climb line directly above where you’re working without completely resetting your tie-in point like In MRT to avoid taking a big swing and then pulling it out when finished to move throughout w/o losing your original high tie-In like w/MRT)!
best gear ever made
I use this and im not a slim jim like you no offence but it works it holds my weight i even left out in rainy weather for 3 weeks and its never failed me
Fun stuff
nice!! I have a question about the sewn tide eye splice if is not a problem with the top part of the mechanical prusik.
No problem at all. I have splice on all my ropes with it. Just not attachable over a splice
thank you
can you tell me what is your high anchor in the tree for your SRT ascent at the beginning of the video ? I don't undertand why the right part of the rope is not moving ....
The rope is basically tied at the top. There is a steel carabiner at the top that makes a cinch knot around the limb so that the right side is basically just a long tail from the knot that helps to retrieve it. If I pull the right side down, the knot will come down so I can untie it. The traditional method is just to forget the knot and tie the right side to the base of the tree. However, this puts double the load on the limb above. Using the tie at the top cuts the stationary rope load in half compared to tying it at the base of the tree. Make any sense?
WOW! I love it. Wish I was there! haha
How does this set up compares to the Rope Runner PRO, do you like this one better
@@blackheart9068 I have a rope runner pro and it almost always stays in my bag. Unless you have a brand new and super smooth rope, the rope runner is just rough and jumpy. The zigzag is always smooth as butter no matter how much pine sap or whatever is in my rope.
Love mine. I've yet to get a knee ascender to work with my foot ascender. This makes me want one hahaha
The knee ascender makes it literally twice as fast. Totally would recommend for long ascents, but for shorter distances it isn’t really worth the hassle. I can make a video on the couple knee ascenders I have if it is something you would like to see. Just let me know.
@@rambotreeman5274 That would be killer. I’ve not yet decided which one I’d like. I do have the Camp foot ascender and I love it. My Petzl was junk
@@SR20FTW sounds good. Keep an eye out for it. Should be out next week sometime
@@rambotreeman5274 what type of carabiner do you need for the chicane?
@@angelRodriguez-iu6xn I use the recommended one from Petzl that is an “H” frame. The oval, D, or William carabiners will all work from petzl because they have the H frame that fits in the zigzag groove. As long as your snap is double auto locking it doesn’t have to be H frame, but the H keeps everything upright for the chicane so it doesn’t flop around.
Just wish that Chicane was 6" shorter.
Amen brother what I been saying for years
Good info. Is the Petzl ZigZag primarily a descending system and not meant as a rope grab safety system? I ask because you stated the weight limitation of the ZigZag, and that seemed rated too light to be considered a rope grab safety system.
I believe the official standard is a maximum of a 6 foot fall on the zigzag system. It was not specifically designed to be a rope grab, and I would not use it in that capacity. The 6 foot is just in case you need some extra inches of wiggle room--it is not intended to be used regularly.
Looked smooth as freakin glass on the descent veeeery nice
What rope are you using? What would be the total cost of this climbing system? Great video by the way . Keep up the good work
This is the rope --bishco.com/yale-scandere-11-7mm-climbing-line-120-length/
It is no longer sold in stores, but there are a few left online.
The total cost would be somewhere around $150 for my rope because it is a 150' with one splice.
The petzl zigzag is $310 ------ The chicane is $150
Somewhat pricy system, but when you use it regularly to make money, it is worth it.
But after a few months of removals and such with the system, I find myself not using the chicane very often at all. It takes too much time to utilize, so I usually just go MRS.
@@rambotreeman5274 yea i got the chicane after just using the zigzag for 6 months coming from a blakes hitch its not bad but the chicane gets in the way
Hey bro what suspenders are that on the treemotion ? And where did you install on the saddle??
The suspenders are just some random clearance suspenders that I found at Lowes or something. I put a carabiner to hook them on the single middle rear link, and on the front, the loops are just slipped around my waist belt. Definitely not rated for life support but helps keep the saddle up when I have a big chainsaw and I don’t want to cut off circulation with the waist belt.
Mr, price ptzl zig zag
Im newer to tree work. have yet to try climbing on a rope system at all (only ladders so far and i cant wait to swtch!)
Whats the advantage of achoring up in the tree? How do you get it down when youre done? Cause it seems like achoring at the base of the tree makes more sense i guess.
This is something that will be specific to your job. Lately I only use SRS (stationary rope system) for ascent into the canopy. If I am working, I will always switch to MRS (moving rope system). The only benefit to anchoring up in the tree on SRS is it cuts the load on the limb in half. When you anchor at the base of the tree there are 2 legs of rope that are both in tension away from the limb that you are anchored on. That means the force on the limb is DOUBLE your body weight. Anchoring from the limb means only one leg of rope is under tension and the force on the limb is equal to your body weight. If you notice at the very beginning of the video, there is another leg of rope in my hand. That side of the rope will bring down my anchor that is on the limb. Basically I tie a butterfly knot in the rope and use a carabiner to cinch it to the limb. So one side of the rope is anchored and the other side can be used to retrieve the anchor.
@@rambotreeman5274 Appreciate the in depth response, thanks man!
@@rambotreeman5274 seen lots of people using a quickie to attach butterfly knot or would you suggest a carabiner?
@@thewood9717 By the industry standard, a carabiner is not advised. So my official response is NO. Carabiners should only be used in situations that they have been tested for. Side loading is not tested for most carabiners and should not be used. However, on very large diameter limbs, I sometimes use the steel carabiner because it is quicker and is rated for 50kN. The quickie is designed and tested for this application, but I tend to just use what I have since I am reasonably sure that it will produce the desired results
Please, what’s the name of the attachment in your left leg?
My left leg has the HAAS knee ascender. It comes with a blue strap to go around the foot, but I purchased a separate foot loop and just attached a carabiner to put them together.
My ZigZag is good for 308.8 Lbs and I can use it without the Chicane
By manufacturer spec SRS requires the chicane
2:45
it's rated for 140 kg not lbs. 140 kilograms is 308 pounds.
can you rope walk with zig zag in moving system? to climb into tree spurless?
Yes you can, but I would not recommend it. Longer distances become very tiring on a MRS system. You will have to pull twice the rope. If it’s a short distance I would just use a single ankle ascender because it is quick and easy to attach. But for longer distances, the stationary rope will be much more efficient
@@rambotreeman5274 thanks for the reply I have a couple trees only need to get up about 35 feet to trim lower branches and wasn't trying to go crazy buying an ankle knee and chicane
@@strykerv1620 Yep that’s the way to do it.
Do what you can with what you have where you are. Just get er done
@@rambotreeman5274 if I got a pretzel hand and foot ascender. and the moving part of rope is on my right side of zig zag. which hand and which side foot ascender should I get?
@@strykerv1620 The foot side you get is personal preference. I don't know how many left-footed ascenders there are, but all the ones I have seen are right-footed. There is no need for a hand ascender. It will just get in your way. Just grab the moving rope side above the zig-zag and pull down while standing up on your ascending foot.
Great demo👍
Thanks 👌
What is that harness you are using?
Tree Motion by Tufelberger
Hey man quick question if you're only killing trees not pruning what device would you have on you for safety and if you need to get down quickly??? I used to use a first gen petzl Grigri but cant find them anymore...i use 12mm rope for climb amd work...
I use the zigzag in MRS config for removals too. It’s my go to for almost everything. However I also typically use spikes and a lanyard too if the tree is all coming down. For safety purposes, I always carry a good ol fashioned figure 8 to slide down in emergency if my other descender breaks. If you’re looking for something similar to the gri gri, maybe try the spiderjack? I never liked the gri gri in the first place, but let me know if you have any more questions about all that
what rope is that
@@Budzy_FN Yale scandere
How do you get your rope back?
If you notice the other leg of rope that I am not climbing on-that is the retrieval side. When the system is unloaded, just pull that side and the whole system will come right out.
Need a list of your gear brother
Ok so I will start with the rope. I have a yale scandere rope. It is something like 11.7mm, but I do not recommend it. I would get something with lower stretch like a kernmantle. I do not have tons of experience with these, but the times I have used them I really like the ultra-low stretch.
Saddle--teufelberger tree motion (like 7 years old) not evo or light. I use the full size
My shoulder straps are home-made. They are not for life support, but they allows me to loosen the belt strap a little and still carry a big chainsaw.
Steel 50kN carabiner double auto lock for redirect and anchoring
speedline choker on aluminum double auto lock carabiner. Many uses including redirects and getting out of a jam.
camp turbofoot ascender gets the job done. Very basic. I like the CT quick step better because it locks
haas knee ascender. Modified to allow a separate foot loop and carabiner attachment
elastic saw lanyard. I like how it shortens when there is no stress. It claims to allow breakaway in the event your saw gets pinched. However I cannot get it to break. It is very strong. Learn to saw correctly before getting in a tree. You do not need a breakaway if you know how to use a chainsaw.
Blood stopper first aid kit. Mostly for looks. I have seen people add tourniquet for these which would be useful.
CMI shembiner hook. This is a convenient accessory. I love how easy it is to use and how well it integrates. For the longest time I just had a carabiner with the gate cut off. But this is much more efficient.
Cable lanyard for spikes and rope lanyard for hardwoods. I have a rockgrab on these and I believe they are both about 8' long.
Extra figure 8 for getting out of a bind.
I always use the zigzag. And I usually carry the chicane especially for removals.
Silky Zubat hand saw integrates nicely on my tree motion saddle. It often comes in clutch when I need it
Any more questions?
How you keeping the knee ascender from running into the zig zag? I got Klein knee ascender I’m rigging to work. Knee ascender rams into the zig zag. This Klein set up is new for me.
What kind of rope is that?
This rope is the Yale Scandere. I do not believe that it is manufactured anymore, but we were able to find one on a less common tree care equipment website. My brother has one and he liked it, so we got another.
48 strand, and i believe it is 11.7mm diameter. very low stretch.
@Gerry Zelles I never knew either 😌 but it does check out
@@jwillshenanigans9007 while still a static rope, it is a little more stretchy than Blue moon or xtatic. But I like it. runs RR Pro very nicely and all the hitch cords I have tried on it.
make blandar from coconut trees
What’s that
❤🎉nice😊
damn 450$ for a Petzl Zigzag
What rope is this ?
Yale Scandere 48 strand
What rope is that?
Yale scandere. It’s out of production now. Don’t recommend. The long term review isn’t great