Thank You. I am looking to make silicon molds for candles. Acetone is used as a thinner and then will flash dry while the silicon caulk cures. I didn't know if I should print with PLA or PETG for the cast model. I'll probably go PETG because it had less distortion in your demonstration. Thank you.
I have had great experience with nylon (Polyamide) or carbon nylon. I've made a few intake manifolds and I've seen a bunch of people making full car manifolds with it. Also annealing prints can help as well.
Wicking could be mechanical (i.e. liquid leaking through pinholes, common for FDM parts... you can prevent this by increasing increasing print temperature, lowering fan speed, and increasing flow slightly about 100% to squeeze out the interlayer voids). Additionally, PETG works well with straight gasoline, but does poorly if there's 10% ethanol in it. (Might also depend on blend of additives (such as BTX to increase octane--benzene, toluene, xylene), so could also depend on octane and season (winter vs summer blend).)
I'm working on a custom fuel hanger and PP was my first choice but after a few weeks of submersion the layers were falling apart. I went to ASA next and it turned into soft rubber in 1 week. Nylon is next lol
My big issue with the wicking effect of that blue stuff is it may pose a fire hazard if it's allowing gas to get to the outside of the intake. I fully understand a stuck needle and seat will spill 1000000% more gas than that ever would but as a saleable item it's something you could get sued over. Food for thought
Very neat to see. I've not gotten around to yet, though I did test using Plastidip in the can on the end of a cracked rubber breather tube and found type 1 silicone definitely doesn't hold up to gas/oil vapors, though cleaning up and dipping the end in Plastidip has held up for a few years, looks like since 2019 per my FB post.
I'm curious, since you are looking at making intake manifolds, they won't be in direct contact with fuel, just fuel vapor, won't the materials that are used react differently??
Since I didn't need to google, I still am feeling compeled to give you some notes B-) 1. PP is really a bitch to print, however glass filled PA only requires a hardened steel nozzle, so it doesn't wear out, and a heatbreak, that doesn't have a ptfe tube going all the way through it - titanium, or bi-metall (steel+copper, titanium+copper), so you could reach around 300 celsius. And also you need to dry your PA. A lot. 2. PETG generally prints ok on a well degreased ultrabase, however I never dealt with Artillery printers, theirs could be sh*t. Gluestick would help. Also, based on the bookmark print, try to go 10 degrees down both on hotend and bed, and switching off or minimizing cooling. Seems a bit overheated, and PETG doesn't really require cooling, except for overhangs and such. 3. PLA is generally noticeably stronger the PETG, however PETG has better impact resistance and doesn't creep under pressure.
Literally just started looking into this an hour ago (3d printing in general) for some small engine parts im having trouble finding... seems the petg would be terrible for any fuel applications with the wicking, but im new to this. Do you think the pla would be ok for fuel pump or throttle body spacers? Not constant, but fair amount of fuel contact, and heat...
I'm not worried about it. This is more of a for the community project at this point. Yes I plan to make and sell parts but for now its just to prove it can be done.
Polypropylene prints well with smooth PEI and Magigoo PP. 230 nozzle, 90 bed, 45mm/sec 1st layer, 60mm/sec after.
Thank You. I am looking to make silicon molds for candles. Acetone is used as a thinner and then will flash dry while the silicon caulk cures. I didn't know if I should print with PLA or PETG for the cast model. I'll probably go PETG because it had less distortion in your demonstration. Thank you.
I have had great experience with nylon (Polyamide) or carbon nylon. I've made a few intake manifolds and I've seen a bunch of people making full car manifolds with it.
Also annealing prints can help as well.
Wicking could be mechanical (i.e. liquid leaking through pinholes, common for FDM parts... you can prevent this by increasing increasing print temperature, lowering fan speed, and increasing flow slightly about 100% to squeeze out the interlayer voids). Additionally, PETG works well with straight gasoline, but does poorly if there's 10% ethanol in it. (Might also depend on blend of additives (such as BTX to increase octane--benzene, toluene, xylene), so could also depend on octane and season (winter vs summer blend).)
I'm working on a custom fuel hanger and PP was my first choice but after a few weeks of submersion the layers were falling apart. I went to ASA next and it turned into soft rubber in 1 week. Nylon is next lol
My big issue with the wicking effect of that blue stuff is it may pose a fire hazard if it's allowing gas to get to the outside of the intake. I fully understand a stuck needle and seat will spill 1000000% more gas than that ever would but as a saleable item it's something you could get sued over. Food for thought
Very neat to see. I've not gotten around to yet, though I did test using Plastidip in the can on the end of a cracked rubber breather tube and found type 1 silicone definitely doesn't hold up to gas/oil vapors, though cleaning up and dipping the end in Plastidip has held up for a few years, looks like since 2019 per my FB post.
That's good info I was going to make some internal tank bushes out of petg lol
I'm curious, since you are looking at making intake manifolds, they won't be in direct contact with fuel, just fuel vapor, won't the materials that are used react differently??
Since I didn't need to google, I still am feeling compeled to give you some notes B-)
1. PP is really a bitch to print, however glass filled PA only requires a hardened steel nozzle, so it doesn't wear out, and a heatbreak, that doesn't have a ptfe tube going all the way through it - titanium, or bi-metall (steel+copper, titanium+copper), so you could reach around 300 celsius. And also you need to dry your PA. A lot.
2. PETG generally prints ok on a well degreased ultrabase, however I never dealt with Artillery printers, theirs could be sh*t. Gluestick would help. Also, based on the bookmark print, try to go 10 degrees down both on hotend and bed, and switching off or minimizing cooling. Seems a bit overheated, and PETG doesn't really require cooling, except for overhangs and such.
3. PLA is generally noticeably stronger the PETG, however PETG has better impact resistance and doesn't creep under pressure.
Great "demonstration" video RCG!
Can you bake some of that stuff?I mean for Strength . Good video, I know nothing about it
Interesting idea. I know on some types the smooth the surface with a heat gun. Will see what I can hunt down.
Once a printer is capable to handle glass and carbon fibers, why would it be less capable at printing standard materials?
Literally just started looking into this an hour ago (3d printing in general) for some small engine parts im having trouble finding... seems the petg would be terrible for any fuel applications with the wicking, but im new to this. Do you think the pla would be ok for fuel pump or throttle body spacers? Not constant, but fair amount of fuel contact, and heat...
Cost of that 3D printer on Banggood is about 1/2 what Amazon wants for it FYI.
It goes back and forth so I included links to both sites.
@@redneckcomputergeek Thanks for both links, I was hoping Amazon would have been cheaper, would have purchased there to give you the kickback money.
I'm not worried about it. This is more of a for the community project at this point. Yes I plan to make and sell parts but for now its just to prove it can be done.
Thanks I was wondering if it works cuz like u said I wanna make home made parts
Awesome video thank you for the video
U think I could find a 3D printer for like 200$
Plenty of printers under $200. The Elegoo Neptune 2S is on sale at $150...
Microcenter has a $100 off ender3 coupon that basically is always running
@@evil_me I live In Canada do they ship?
Comgrow has em on sale, though they're Amazon returns so sounds like might be hit and miss.
How about ASA?
Its on my list now. Waiting to see if this video generates the views to make it worth another testing round.
Why aren't you printing on PEI?