You did a fantastic job retro fitting those battery dimensions into that frame. That's a lot of hard work and I've been there as well. It's going to be a long journey but it will be worth it. The experience you pick up along the way will last you a lifetime. When you're screaming down the road on this monster with a smile on your face then you'll know it paid off! 👍
Hell yeah brother!! 🤘 I knew it wouldn't be an easy job and I did want a challenge, I believe you are right, once I can get this thing back on the road it will feel really amazing to be blasting down my city streets - I appreciate the feedback and encouragement, thanks man!
the ebikes i build from the ground up, are an evolution built around the battery and motor I am going to use. Custom building a frame to your own specifications, is easier than modifying a frame that is too small, in my opinion. Cheers for your fortitude to make that battery fit. You’ll get it sooner than later…don’t skip on the reinforcing, added weight of the battery will require a stronger frame, and premium brakes…stopping more important than going fast.
That's awesome! You should post some of your builds on your YT channel, I'm sure others would like to see what you come up with (I would!). I thought about just keeping the swingarm and making my own 'frame', which was going to be my plan B if I couldn't get the modifications to work. The battery is only 20lbs more than the one I had previously used for years, so it's not that much of a stressor. It has hydro discs 203mm up front and heavy regen in the back, but I may add dual rotors up front and one in the back if I don't feel comfortable with the stopping performance. 👍
*Yeah, that bushing thing was a known issue with these frames, when I ordered mine.* I went specifically with one that had bearings, as opposed to bushings.
As a shade tree mechanic nothing wrong with those rubber bushings, the cars I've taken apart are built similar. The problem likely is the poor fit of the bolt and the swing arm lack of proper interference fit on the swing arm.
Thanks man! You'd have to have a much harder rubber still, even with press fit of the bolt you could flex this 20-30 degrees. Cars will usually have a much harder type of rubber, usually plastic like polyurethane which won't flex as much as this type. Also cars will have multiple links on the suspension which aid in stabilization as the forces are not subjected to one pivot point. It's just way too much force for the softness of rubber they've used. The new parts will be rigid and also the bolt fit up will be dramatically improved 👍
Yes, the rubber bushings aren’t the problem, but the one who designed it was a gender studies major not an engineer. You will never see control arm bushings mounted in the center. The center is always rock solid and the two bushings are separated by several inches. My ebike frame hard point is a 4.5” long steel tube and then the bushings are pressed in the swingarm. Works perfectly. Adding to the bad design was the fact that it was improperly assembled. These bushings need to be snug, then the suspension compressed under the rider’s weight or mid-travel of the suspension, then tightened so that (in the case of this wrong design) the swingarm, bolt, and both center sleeves of the bushings move as one. In the video its clear it wasn’t tight and had some big washers inside doing nothing. One simple fix that would correct it is using polyurethane bushings, but they will require a thrust washer on each side since the rubber bushing did that job before due to being vulcanized to both inner and outer sleeves. Im sure it’s already been fixed by now. I guess ill go find that video. Lol
Great video, can’t wait to see how you make it work. If you’re up for the challenge for some other build you can design your own battery of that capacity to fit in the frame, probably in separate pieces. Thanks for the inspiration though knowing a build like this is even possible motivates me to build my own ebike without limits
Thank you! It's definitely challenging 😂but so far everything is coming out ok - oddly I hit more issues with my other builds that were less involved than this one (so far at least). Yes totally, I'll be trying to build my own packs for future builds, although I still think for price per watt, you don't really get a benefit by building your own pack, you can however get it to be arranged exactly as you'd like 👍 Thanks so much for the feedback and for watching!!!
You have the same problem I had 1 year ago. I chopped the top off the frame and made a lid basically the same frame. Its so out of shape now, it needs so much more strength. I'm buying another frame to make it properly now.
I've come up with a design that is stronger than the original frame 👍 I'm curious as to what you did to fit the battery after chopping out the top? I think you can make it work, but of course a new frame will fix it too.
Awesome. I also wasted money not knowing about continuous amps😂. I just finished up my enduro 12600w build. I bought a 72v 150a 40ah battery straight from nbpower. costed 1700. You got yourself a good deal for more power and range. Respect 😎👏🏾
Thanks man! I think it's just a rite of passage if you want to get into ebikes😂Hey, it's not a waste if you learn from it haha. That's awesome man, that should be a super quick bike, enjoy! It's been a minute since I've had a real powerful bike so I'm looking forward to riding again. Thanks brother!
So much work went into this video. One problem I have right now is removing my rear wheel is such a pain in the ass!!! I wanna build a quick disconnect like you see on a lot of modern e-bikes but have no idea where to start there on cutting the cord to the hub motor! And also would loveeee to change the bushing on my swing arm like you did here! I get major shaking and my rear wheel hops around a lot at higher speeds. Also, did you have to alter the connectors to your controller to convert to Anderson connectors? I have barrel connections right now and want to convert that as well and again no clue where to start with converting a battery connector.. I’ve done the opposite before but not sure the safety of cutting battery wires on a live battery…. Haha I never thought I’d be this deep into my build but I love the creative side of things and making it my own.
Thanks man!! Yes, adding QD to a hub motor is a very convenient feature. Just make sure the connectors can handle the power 👍 I will do this in the future and show how I did it. Remember you need to make two separate connectors, one for the controller wires, and one for the main phase wires. You can cut them anywhere is most convenient, I would say maybe a foot from the motor? Then you can zip tie the connector to the swingarm. The change I made to the bushings was a night and day difference, I would recommend trying it out. Yes, I always change the connectors on my batteries. It's safe to do if you follow the procedure of always making sure only one cable is exposed at a time. Do not cut both wires at the same time, that would be a bad day. So you cut the red wire, and then separate the black one and keep it as far away from the red as possible, although it still will have the connector on it, so it will be safe, but I usually tape it to the other side of the battery while I work on it so it's completely out of the way. Then once you have the red wire with a connector on it, then you're safe to move on with prepping the black wire to be inserted in the connector. It's pretty straight forward. I'm also going to be making a video on ebike connectors and how to swap and change them 👍 Thanks man!
@@hightech-lowlife QD is my dream goal. Such a convenient thing that is surprisingly not on these heavy ass motors. I'd totally tune into your quick tip vids, as I seem to watch an entire series of your builds and tend to pause and rewind to see how you do things and how you learn from your mistakes. CHEERS MATE!
@@alexchavosaurus You can do it man! You're right, for these more powerful and premium motors, they should come with QD from the factory. Thanks so much for watching, I have a lot more content on the way. I appreciate it, cheers man! 🍻🍻
Thank you for your great videos! Would have the battery builder been able to build a battery that fit in terms of shape and dimensions? How big is the battery? Would have backpack or a rack been alternatives?
Thanks man! Yes, but it's within limitations. The cells take up a certain amount of space so you may have to compromise in some way. It's very big. 412 x 232 x 146mm Not for this size battery, I suppose it's possible, but not ideally.
These Chinese bomber frames come in about five versions, the one you have is more or less the same as mine. The swingarm bushing on my version is better as they obviously addressed this situation as there is no rubber insight They put in two hollow brass bushings on either side so when they are pushed in the connect dead centre, once they are in they then placed a steel threaded bolt, it's a very tight fit with no play, just needs grease. Overall it's a very versatile frame but it can be improved.
Yes I think they kept improving them over time, I bought mine back in 2017 or so, even the newer ones look quite a bit different even though they're basically the same design 👍 I'm throwing some bearings in mine and making sure all of the tolerances are as tight as possible (without lathing my own), it should be much more stable! Thanks for your comment!
They eliminated the rubber bushing on later versions and thicken the frame on mines thankfully but more expensive as was $500 plus without fork which was another $450 but got a better fork. Also is heavier but held up over a year.
Have you ever considered using Lipo batteries? You can get a lot of amps with a much smaller battery. I made a small 5.2ah supplemental lipo pack for my ebike, but its capabable of putting out 250 amps. Not that I need that much.
You'll have to ask them to build it for you to your specs: www.aliexpress.com/store/1100952793 70Ah, 200A BMS 412 x 232 x 146mm 2x Anderson 120A connectors
That's quite a job you took on there, respect for that 😎 The 350A peak you are talking about is phase amps.. Not what your controller will pull from your battery, but will put into your motor. It's a long story, but it has to do with getting DC in and making a kind of ac out through your three phase wires.. More about that on Google though 😅 Keep up the good work 🤘
Thank you!! Oh yeah, I do know about phase amps (each phase pushes the stator along to the next ring of energized magnets, etc) - this controller will actually do 450A phase, I don't see the peaks for it though - most controllers will give you a RMS and peak rating (3 or 10 second burst). I do remember when messing with my phase amps before that it would make a huge difference in acceleration and top end. If this isn't enough (😂) I'll move on to a 800A RMS controller 👍should be fine more than adequate though, my target is anything past 60mph. Thanks so much man!!
i have the same frame and its pretty sheitty one. rear shock mounts are weak. its have deformation on both sides. my friend said that they pushed inside after front crash into wall or smth. and spot welding inside this frame is bad. after couple drops from the bike some spots just cracked)
I agree, it's not the best frame to begin with. I'm making my modifications right now and I can't make everything perfectly aligned, because the frame itself is not perfectly aligned 😂I'll see how it will handle and keep adding reinforcement as it needs, maybe eventually it will be a whole new frame with all new metal. I've never dropped my bike before, but I don't think it would like it, just the frame + battery is nearly 80lbs now.
@@WaggonerWoodworking www.aliexpress.com/item/2255800567838389.html 16101 12x30x8, 2RS seal I bought 8 but I think I only used 5pc, it depends on how you want to fill the gap between the bearings, I just loaded it up with more bearings 👍
I had it custom made from this company: foxelion.aliexpress.com/store/3517067 Just a word of caution if you purchase from them, for a battery this size, they will ship by boat, and it took mine 3+ months to arrive. 👍
@@dennis_503_gutierrez I haven't had any issues with this pack, this mfg is reputable and have sold a lot of batteries. Always check sales numbers and feedback (reviews) when looking at battery sellers. If they have a lot of sales over a long amount of time and the feedback from prior sales looks good then I would trust the manufacturer.
I had it custom made from this company: foxelion.aliexpress.com/store/3517067 Just a word of caution if you purchase from them, for a battery this size, they will ship by boat, and it took mine 3+ months to arrive. 👍
I kinda feel your pain there... my friend had modified longjohn cargo bikes into (70 kmph) speed monsters. He showed me only a few things he spend weeks working on, I already had my mind blown. But the thing is... On a cargo bike YOU ACTUALLY HAVE SPACE TO PUT THE BATTERY! xD
Thanks!!! Yes, you can fit a ton of stuff on a cargo bike, plenty of room for batteries 😂I will make it work though, I will be doing my first welds ever this weekend so 🤞hopefully I can pull it off, otherwise I'll use a million pounds of duct tape 💪- Thanks man!!
I don't run a key on my ebikes, I just use the motor controller handlebar controls to turn the bike on/off. It's easy to wire in a switch though with a key if you want, just put the switch inline with power or ground to the battery, or if your bike has a ton of power and your switch isn't robust enough just use the key to switch a relay 👍 I'm sure there are already ton of videos on how to do it, but I can make one if you want. Thanks.
Hey I just wanted to say thank you for this video one thing I want to ask I bought an ebike really nice what do you think about the 72.v60ah this is the first time I've ever had a battery this big so what do you think about the power that I'm going to get this time it's a 15000watt 200amp controller I wanted the 72.v70ah but they didn't have it so what do you think about 60ah is that really good or good
Thank you!! I think 60Ah is still a huge battery, you just have to make sure the discharge BMS is high amperage too (150-200A). You technically don't need a huge battery to get the amount of power you want, but it does help with voltage sag and runtime. Unless you need to go great distances 40Ah is probably the best for a 200A output, plus it still will fit in most frames 👍 I only went with this battery because it was roughly the same price as the 40Ah pack, and I also wanted the challenge of stuffing a huge battery in the frame.
Hi fellow Biker and handyman from Bomber, lol! When I see the beginning of your video and you tell us that this big play in the axis of the swingarm you had it when you received your frame KIT which is apparently the same as mine, (I'm going to put you 'elsewhere the AliExpress link of my FRAME KIT), But if as you say, if this game really existed at the start, first of all it must have been weak, and I would say: that it is rather wear and tear because of from what I understand, you have been building it for several years and I think that you have probably done a lot of off-roading with this Bomber and therefore if there was already a little play at the start, by doing a lot of km on very degraded terrain, this has prematurely worn out the steel axle and the inserts embedded in the rubber silent-blocks which apparently have also taken a hit, because we see that they are no longer centered in the silent-block and that the surface seen from the silent blocks is damaged. When you mount this axle you have to add a lot of grease and if you haven't done it, well, it wears the steel much faster and it protects against corrosion and water infiltration. For my part, whether it's this axis or the cassette of my crankset, it seems solid on mine. But hey, I haven't done a lot of km with it yet and I haven't done any terrain either, because I do some with my big electric fat bike. fr.aliexpress.com/item/32983628575.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2fra&spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27426c37tovZ55 Here is mine : ruclips.net/video/ma934qaQ_NU/видео.html ruclips.net/video/iwId9PZXCyY/видео.html And this is my 6th try : ruclips.net/video/XzTBGjGuoYo/видео.html My battery was made to measure, it is a 53 Ah 72 Volt with bms of 100 Amps in discharge and 50 Amps in charge and it is equipped with new lighter Samsung cells and weighs only 16.5 kg. During my 6th try, I did 63 km with good hills and a good average and if I had done a bit of off-road or all-terrain driving slower I'm sure I could have done around 75 km which is more than enough to have fun, I think, So why all this work which will weaken the frame a lot and therefore you will have to weld external reinforcements, otherwise the frame will bend and what are you you will gain in autonomy: maybe 15 km more or even 20, but not more I think especially with a bms which delivers 200 amps in nominal discharge...
Hello friend! Yes, this kit is older though, the new kits (that are the same frame) have a brass bushing that has no slop/play in it. I can assure you this was not wear and tear as it was like this from the beginning when I first built it, it has always had this play and it's because of the rubber. You noticed that it was off-center on one of them too, that also came like that, it's just a poor quality part. 👍I will be adding bearings to this instead so I won't need to grease it as the bearings are sealed from dirt. If you purchased your frame past 2017 it will have a newer part there, but it also could just be a different manufacturer, I had an EEB frame from around the same time, and it used bearings there, it really just depends. I should get 75-100 miles of range, but it's not really about that for me, it's just to do something different and I needed a project to start welding and this was a small package to work on that wasn't overwhelming - there is no real "necessary" point to doing it, I could have bought a smaller battery, a different frame, or just bought a premade bike where I don't have to do anything. The frame will be reinforced and it will be heavier, but with 20+KW adding even another 20-30lbs won't make much of a difference in how fast it is. 🔥🔥🔥 Thanks man!!
@@hightech-lowlife Thank you, friend, I completely agree with you, and I went to see the photos I had taken before mounting my Bomber, and I noticed this big and thick brass roundel embedded in a steel part which as you say, will prevent having this game play. And since I put a lot of good grease before mounting it, I think it will hold despite the 80 kg of my Bomber plus me who weighs between 77 and 78 kg. But as you say, if you put bearings instead, it will be waterproof and also much more solid and indestructible because it is not a part that rotates completely. And I give you the AliExpress link of my frame KIT that I actually bought f : rom another supplier than yours, (I just told you in a review on another of your videos, and I ordered it December 2, 2020 👍✌ fr.aliexpress.com/item/32983628575.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2fra&spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27426c37tovZ55
@@pat_0248 Yes, if you bought it recently then it will not have the rubber bushing 😁Either way it should be totally fine for holding the weight, I only put bearings because they were cheaper than finding a bushing that size. Thank you!
Wow, I am only 5 mins into the video so far but I gotta say how glad I am you made this bc I haven’t ridden my bike for a couple months now due to this exact swingarm problem. I’ve been searching the internet for over a year since I first felt it wobbling during my rides and couldn’t find much. Finally it just got too dangerous at high speed. I bought a full stack of bearings and spacer to try and fit in over the center rod. Haven’t gotten around to starting the project yet until today, and poof this video appears in my feed. Thanks universe! Anyways, now that I wrote a novel lol, I’ll unpause the video to see what you came up with. 😎
Thanks! Yes, I have fixed this issue with bearings and also I bought a new bolt, the original bolt is also too small and there is a small bit of play. I haven't implemented the fixes yet because I'm still working on the frame, but after that I'll definitely show you guys my swingarm mount setup and I'm confident it will have near-zero wiggle. Thanks man!
Holy fuck….that’s a big battery….I’m guessing a good mig welder will be needed, I might get one of those myself, I’m a good welder and welding sheet metal is second nature to me. If I do this that battery will be living inside the frame, and the charger will be built into the frame’ if it fits without compromising safety….I personally think it can be made to work….if you have the ability to sheet metal weld and work with MDF plastic and a heat gun to mold the plastic….you will either need to tack wield bolts on the outside or tap and die threads into the side cover’ the battery is definitely not going anywhere. Just weld some brackets in to restore structural Integrity….and it will definitely work, so far your doing good. However your gonna need so special tools and skills….first a mig or arc welder’ it’s gonna be very important to set the heat on the welder’ or you will burn through the sheet metal….you will only be welding in steel stalk for reinforcement….the part that sticks out can be held with MDF plastic 1/8 to 1/4 and a heat gun to mold a plastic top cover. I wish I was able to see one of these frames….I could’ve saved money and build a frame from scratch….most of the frame uses 1mm sheet metal.
Awesome man, yeah I did pick up a tig welder (the latest video in this series I go over it 👍) I suppose I could just weld the battery in to the frame, but I wanted a way to be able to replace it later on down the road, so I came up with a design that would allow access to the battery without too much trouble. So far it seems to be stronger than what was there before my mods. I did think about building a frame from scratch, and that was going to be my backup plan if this first idea didn't work out well, but so far it seems to be working! Good luck on your bike builds, thanks for the comments!
Currently working on my own bmx build similar to yours. My first ebike build. With all the builds you've done, you've got tons of experience sourcing affordable but reliable batteries. If you were looking for a 72v 20ah (without building yourself) who would you buy from? Thanks in advance and love all the videos and writeups.
Thanks man, I'm sure you will have a lot of fun with your BMX build! Honestly, most of the packs I've bought were from places most would consider "shady" - places like eBay, Aliexpress, etc. So far my experiences with all of the battery packs I have ever bought have been favorable. I've never had one fail, explode, fire, etc. That's not to say those things can't happen and aren't a possibility. A lot of the larger packs I've had custom made for me have been from mfg's in China, which is fine but there is a language barrier that can make things a bit more difficult, and also the possibility of a very long wait time for your battery. For smaller packs that aren't custom made, I just find some on eBay and they have worked well (Amazon would work too). Just try to find one in the dimensions you need with the Ah requirements met. That's what I would do. It just depends on who you are and what you value most, I'm willing to put myself (and money) at more risk to gain value, as I also like to experiment with various sellers and companies so I have a better experiential understanding of what's out there. I understand that most people aren't like that though, and would prefer just to pay more (or a lot more) for something more 'reputable'. If you want to go with the most reputable, reliable, "as certain as you can get" for a battery places that are well known such as Luna Cycle, em3ev, and others. You will pay more, but they will back the packs they make, offer great support service, etc. I pretty much buy batteries like anything else I buy, check to see if a seller or mfg has been around a while, what their customers are saying for reviews. Generally if a seller has been around 5+ years and has had thousands of sales, chances are that they make a good enough product. Good luck man! 👍
Heya dude just found your content and I'm really enjoying it, I'm trying to do custom ebike but to sell myself do you know anywhere I can get relatively cheap motor kits and batteries, I'm building one of these bikes but I'm putting my own spin on it too, trying to turn one into a low down cruiser/ cafe racer/ Street fighter type style, I'm not particularly trying to get speed as I'm in the UK and the laws aren't so forgiving, doing this to try start my own business and also do I can get some money to build my own 🤣😅, I'm trying to build the one I'm building obviously just to be a cruiser a show piece I guess but also to get a big enough battery that will give the bike decent range
Thanks man!! I get all my batteries/motors/controllers off aliexpress, ebay or amazon - there are a lot of good quality parts for not too much money. You should totally try it out, ebikes are just now growing in popularity, they are a great alternative to cars for semi-close commuting 👍 Good luck on your adventures!
@@TerminusWindowCleaning The BMS is internal, both connectors are coming from the BMS (which is fed from the battery). They are both outputs that are connected to the controller.
Man this battery is HUGE. Do you have such a long trips to drain whole capacity? Also the theoretical peak power of the battery is limited with your controller peak power, so even the Sabvonton 200 won't use full potential of the battery. The NMC CATL batteries are twice cheaper than 18650 configs with the same current specs
It really was just about value as the 40AH packs I was looking for were about the same cost, I also wanted to do something different. I figured with 70AH my voltage sag would also be less when really dumping the throttle! The Sab 200 should do 350+ for bursts of 3-10 seconds so I should be able to use more than I can handle. I don't even know if 200A is usable really, I'll have to try it out 😂 Thanks man, I'll check out those batteries, I will try making my own pack for some builds in the future!
I'm interested in the python paint look. Is this something you did yourself or something else ? I really like the look and would like to be able to add that to my design. Great video !
I'm in a hurry to see how you're going to finish this project, I saw at the end on your 3D software what you're planning for the reinforcements and it looks good to me. I myself used a lot of this software because I worked for 22 years with a heritage architect, in Paris 8th as a draftsman and architectural assistant, and therefore worked a lot on AutoCAD and direct 3D software as in last with SKetchUp. And I also understood that you had done that to practice welding, lol!
Thank you! Yes, I do have a plan at least, but depending on how much reinforcement is required I might have to do a few iterations, most likely I will overbuild it, but I'm planning to do steps and check how much flex there is (if any) and then build up more from there. 👍 3D software has helped me a lot in my latest projects because the more complicated they get it's harder to envision it all in your head, it really helps to have a reference like that, even if it's not fully precise. Yes, I have some larger projects with welding in mind, but I didn't think it was a good idea to dive into those without more experience, so I figured this was just a smaller project to get my feet wet before diving into something over my head 😂Thanks man!!
@@hightech-lowlife I never dared to get into arc welding, otherwise I think I might have done like you, I would have modified my frame to have a more powerful battery, but what would have been better, it is that the manufacturers of these frames, make it a little wider, because my specialist in custom-made batteries wanted to put me longer cells, only the almost 14 cm wide, were not enough, too bad, it was not missing big thing... Moi je n'ai jamais osé me lancer dans la soudure à l'arc, sinon je pense que j'aurais peut être fait comme toi, j'aurais modifié mon cadre pour avoir une batterie plus puissante, mais ce qui aurait été mieux, c'est que les constructeurs de ces cadres, le fassent un peu plus large, car mon spécialiste des batteries sur mesures voulait me mettre des cellules plus longues, seulement les presque 14 cm de large, ne suffisaient pas, dommage, il ne manquait pas grand chose...
@@pat_0248 The EEB frame is narrower than this frame I have, this is the biggest frame I have seen in terms of battery size, but there may be others out there. Another thing you could do is just widen the side panels to accommodate a larger pack too 👍
@@hightech-lowlife Yes also, it's true that it would be a good solution at a lower cost and not difficult to do... But now that I have my battery that I paid 2600 euros, it's too late, lol! I still have good autonomy and power with my bms which does 100 Amps in discharge I go up to almost 100 Km/h in about 9 seconds, that's enough I think, even if I'm eternally dissatisfied, it always need more lol! Oui aussi, c'est vrai que ça serait une bonne solution à moindre coût et pas difficile à faire... Mais maintenant que j'ai ma batterie que j'ai payé 2600 euros, c'est trop tard, lol ! j'ai quand même une bonne autonomie et puissance avec mon bms qui fait 100 Ampères en décharge je monte à presque 100 Km/h en 9 secondes environ, c'est suffisant je pense, même si je suis un éternel insatisfait, il m'en faut toujours plus lol !
Have you tried using a bearing from a gas bike chain guide….it’s a cheap white plastic pully wheel…but inside it has a metal ball bearing…if that can fit that space it could be night and day for the rear fork cradle arm….my frame is a lot different….but I will see the size or maybe fabricate the frame. You might be able to use bushings off a old full suspension MTB, or the inserts for a old style gooseneck….I work on cars and fabricate cars…I have many automotive pulleys floating around….I will see if I can find a proper size bearing. I’m posting a build video for my DIY 3000w stealth bomber frame….I used normal front suspension forks’ but good ones’ I won’t be doing major trails….the bike will be my company bike….to showcase my converted E-bikes, by state law I can only do 750w kits…I also use gas bikes to reel customers in, and 95% of the time they end up buying a E-bike instead. I usually hope they don’t buy the gas bike….but if they do, there’s no warranty, and sold as….gas bikes are terrible for business, ppl thinking they can commute more than 20miles each day’ on a gas bike’ is insane. No matter how good you build a gas bike….someone still manage to tear them up….I have to govern my gas bikes down to 20 mph, but some idiot always manages to by pass it, and ride them on sidewalks’ very very illegal.
Thanks man! I actually found some bearings that are the exact size for the swingarm at about 0.50c per bearing, so I bought a bunch for about $5 👍 I did try to think of just using a bushing, if I had a lathe I would just make something myself, but luckily you can get bearings in just about any size you can think of these days and for cheap. I'll check out your ebike, to me the biggest downside to a gas conversion is the noise, those things are always deafening and it's not a cool or pleasant noise like a V8. I do think at this time that they are still a cheaper alternative to ebikes, but as battery costs come down and gas prices go up, that will eventually change as well 😁
@@hightech-lowlife awesome…I knew there was bearings floating around…to fit that size. 👍 Gas bikes are cheaper…unfortunately many buyers…don’t know how to ride them, or have no knowledge how to do repairs…one guy kept bringing his back…every time he developed a rear flat…he ended up ducking out without paying for labor…he then burns out the clutch packs…after he tried not paying again…it gave me a reason to tell him to take a hike Some people in Florida are unbelievable
@@ebperformance8436 Hell yeah! I don't know the size off the top of my head but I will definitely put that info in the video where I install them 👍 That's the worst when people keep breaking stuff and expecting you to fix it, especially if they don't want to pay you for your time. I think most people are cool and are understanding but there will always be people that want something for nothing. Florida is certainly a special place that's for sure, both good and bad 😁!
@@hightech-lowlife yeah and the bad part was…it was a gas conversation’ using his own bike’ that was my first mistake’ the bike he bought in was a old POS….it had bad bearings, very old and bent rim, bad cup bearings inside the forks cup area, broken coaster brake, and star gear….bottom line….it was junk…I made him bring me some unbent rims, and charged him for the repairs made on the bike’ if I went back In time, I would’ve refused that bike’ he was also too big for the bike…the guy almost weigh 300pounds….it was like pulling teeth, to make him pay for the repairs on the POS bike….I ended up not doing those repairs, and made him sign a voucher…..making me not responsible for anything that breaks on the bike. The bike was a mess….the handle bars rattled, both bearings on the wheels were bad….I had no choice but to repair the back rim’ to avoid chain pops’ it was a learning experience, and I stop offering conversions to customer owned bikes….the second time he broke the Bike….he had the balls to ask if he could borrow one of my electric bike…while I repaired his…I laughed very hard, and told him not a chance in hell. He wanted to invest into my business, with no money’ the guy lived in a freaking van’ I finally told him to take a hike….I had to block his number, and get a restraining order….to not go on my property’ his text messages were filled with threats’ I showed the cop the messages….and he was served with a no trespassing order. If you build bikes….stay away from conversions, I sold over 11 E-bikes and not one complaint….You can earn good money on gas bikes….but it’s not worth it….the E-bike might have a bigger price tag, but I do make a good profit for them…E-bikes are way more superior than a weed whacked 2 stroke gas bike….and I won’t get into the part about explaining the oil mixtures….during break in.
@@ebperformance8436 Sounds like a nightmare! Thankfully you don't have to deal with that guy anymore, I think most people are genuine but some people definitely are not. I would have started a few businesses already, but having worked in small companies prior it's a lot of hassle for reasons you have mentioned. There will always be at least a few people that will make your life hell. I agree with ebikes over gas, aside from battery prices (which will be fixed) they make a lot more sense and thankfully there is high demand for them now.
Your skills are insane, and your tattoos are killer, but how are you still at home borrowing your dad’s tools? You’re like a DIY Picasso in your mom’s basement, which is pretty funny.🔥🔥🔥🔥
@@hightech-lowlife Whose angle grinder was that-yours or your dad’s? Either way, you crushed it! Thanks for the video-I know those were his masonry disks, and that makes it even better🔥👍
@@ly6982 Yeah, those were his discs I haven't ventured into working with concrete. This build is quite old now, my fabrication skills have markedly improved. This was the first project I ever welded or even really cut anything with a angle grinder 👍 Thanks man
i mean a custom one from a person that makes battery's could have made you a smaller 70ah one using 21700 cells. How do you know for sure its 70ah. well nvm I guess the shear size it should be lol
It's possible, but it's not only about range - that's kind of secondary 👍I'll get into building my own packs later on for sure. It's definitely huge! 😁
Man these bomber Frames are weak and fail in so many areas I'd definitely would be welding an exo skeleton around that existing frame good thing it's steal anything's possible great battery fitting but I think a little bit of padding is in order.
Have u ever had the over current code pop up on your sabaton controllers like when I get on the throttle on hit a bomb not even hard it throws the code then I gotta turn the bike on and to start riding again
Buy a Stick welder my friend. Youll be able to pick one up for 50 bucks or so and since the frame is probably made from ordinary construction steel, youll be able to reinforce it from the sides/the top without too much training or cost.
Good lord, do not buy a stick welder for welding sheet metal. Stick is for heavy guage steel. Mig or Tig is what you want. Get one that uses argon. Everlast makes some decent budget welders.
@@Twin_turbo_coyote_fox Thanks man, I think you can use stick for smaller pieces, might not be the easiest thing to do though 👍I suspect a lot of blowout if you're trying to weld thinner steel. No sheet metal welding on this project yet - I do have a new TIG machine though, never welded in my life so I'll be showing you guys my progress. Thank you!
@@hightech-lowlife If you can, by all means go for TIG. I think it's the best process for frame work :). I do however think that Stick-welding is best suited for those that are new to welding. Personally I have suceeded in welding 1.5mm wall tubing with 1.6mm 6013 Stick. Blowout is a problem on such projects, Amperage and Feeding speeds have to be correct which is why you would always make a couple of test pieces to figure that out before getting at a serious project. These downsides of Stick compared to MIG/TIG can be mitigated though and for someone not that into metalworking and especially those of us one a budget, a used Stick AC Buzzbox or even a Stick Inverter is the best bet. If youre getting into TIG I'd advise you to always be as comfortable as you can when welding. That way youll learn as quick as possible and have repeatable results. :))
@@jellolon8435 I'm going to disagree..if your a new welderig Mig is the best. It's the most versatile. Stick is very sloppy and wide on precision welds. Tube might be ok but welding thinner sheet metal is ugly. You will spend more time grinding you welds than actually welding. If he owns a TIG you can stick weld with it. I've personally never used the stick welder on mine. Regardless of our opinions, the OP chose the best type of welder for this project. Anything you want to look precion and pretty, go TIG. Pick up a good pedal when you can. It makes a world of difference once you get familiar with your machine. Practice makes perfect. Cheers guys.
Dude if your ebike battery 🔋 gets to big why don’t you just buy a motorcycle 🏍. Ebikes are for older people who just want to get some exercise without killing themselves
Fully disagree! Plus I have two motorcycles 👍next project is one of them! Ebikes come in all shapes and forms and for all kinds of people. Some people just want minimal pedal-assist so they still can get 'some' exercise, while others want a more moto-like experience. To me a powerful ebike that can take you very far is a blend of the best of both worlds from bikes and motorcycles.
Dude I got that ebike it has two batteries 🔋 over 40 amp hours two motors two thousand watts and it heavy as hell I need a donkey to load it on my truck 🛻 it’s not that fun because it’s so heavy 🥺😩grandma want let me ride on Sundays.
@@mogeking56 It just depends on what you're going for 👍 If you have a donkey already why do you need an ebike? 😂 Just ride that! 🎠Why are you putting an ebike in a truck, you're supposed to ride the ebike! I have all kinds of ebikes, some lightweight (my BMX is 3KW and only weighs about 50lbs) but this bike will be very heavy, about 130lbs, but it will also have about 6x the amount of power. You might just be into a different type of ebike, try out a 1500W kit on a light frame, it will be plenty fast and a lot lighter than one with a 40AH battery and dual motors (also a lot cheaper). I've made quite a few like this and they are easy to pick up, much more like a regular bicycle. 40mph is about the limit in which you're fighting the wind, you can be super light and low wattage and cheap to get up to that speed, but once you want to go faster than that, you will pay a lot more, and things will need to be much more powerful which will mean a lot heavier.
Hello I'M NOTORUS IRBY IN NEWARK NEW JERSEY BRO I HERD YOU SAID 70VOLTS &70 AMPS PLEASE TELL ME HOW FAR CAN YOU GO ON 70AMP HOW MANY MILES THAS WHAT I really wants to know please I'm keerius As HARD CORE IKNOW THAT YOU CAN GO REAL FAR AND BACK HOME AN STEEL HAVE A LOTS OF BATTERY POWER PLEASE YOU HAVE REGENERATION BREAKS TO KEEP YOUR BATTERY CHARGE 🙏 PRAY 💯🏁 THAS SO KOOLL DUDE SO PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU HAVE TIME TO WRITE ME BACK I HAVE AND ESCOOTER AND I HOPE THAT ICAN FIND ASIXTY VOLTS BATTERY WITH 50 AMPS AND HOPE TO MAKE MY REAR SINGLE ESCOOTER WHEEL MORE FASTER THAN IT IS SO THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME &SERVICE I HOPE YOU IS HAPPY WITH YOUR BATTERY KEEP ON DOING WHAT YOUR HEARTS DESIGNER FROM NOTORIUS IRBY BRO JUST DO WHATS MAKES YOU HAPPY MAY Be I'll SEE YOU AND YOU JUST MAY SAY TO ME I KNOW HOW TO HELP YOU FIX YOUR ESCOOTER 🙏 PRAY ILL BE WAITING FOR YOUR COMMENT THANK YOU AGAIN MUCH LOVE TO U BRO
Thanks man! Yeah it's 70AH! 72V (84V really) - On a similar setup with a 30AH pack I was able to go 40-60 miles on a charge, so this should go 80-120 miles depending. Yes, it also has regen brakes, but regen will only add a few percentage back, you really just want it for the braking power. If your controller can handle it you may be able to up the volts, 60V is pretty rare, as the common voltages are 48, 52 and 72 for ebikes. There are a lot of factors that go into how to make an ebike (scooter, etc) faster, unfortunately usually the components are matched, so having a bigger battery, or motor, or controller alone will not help as these systems work together. Most likely you can bump up the volts a bit, but if you're trying to go too far you may damage the controller or motor (usually the controller first) - although most will have built-in protection, so it just won't let you push them. It really just depends on what components you have and how tolerant they are to handling more juice. Good luck man, thanks for your comment!
You did a fantastic job retro fitting those battery dimensions into that frame. That's a lot of hard work and I've been there as well.
It's going to be a long journey but it will be worth it. The experience you pick up along the way will last you a lifetime.
When you're screaming down the road on this monster with a smile on your face then you'll know it paid off! 👍
Hell yeah brother!! 🤘 I knew it wouldn't be an easy job and I did want a challenge, I believe you are right, once I can get this thing back on the road it will feel really amazing to be blasting down my city streets - I appreciate the feedback and encouragement, thanks man!
the ebikes i build from the ground up, are an evolution built around the battery and motor I am going to use. Custom building a frame to your own specifications, is easier than modifying a frame that is too small, in my opinion. Cheers for your fortitude to make that battery fit. You’ll get it sooner than later…don’t skip on the reinforcing, added weight of the battery will require a stronger frame, and premium brakes…stopping more important than going fast.
That's awesome! You should post some of your builds on your YT channel, I'm sure others would like to see what you come up with (I would!). I thought about just keeping the swingarm and making my own 'frame', which was going to be my plan B if I couldn't get the modifications to work. The battery is only 20lbs more than the one I had previously used for years, so it's not that much of a stressor. It has hydro discs 203mm up front and heavy regen in the back, but I may add dual rotors up front and one in the back if I don't feel comfortable with the stopping performance. 👍
*Yeah, that bushing thing was a known issue with these frames, when I ordered mine.*
I went specifically with one that had bearings, as opposed to bushings.
Bearings are the way to go! 👍🍻
As a shade tree mechanic nothing wrong with those rubber bushings, the cars I've taken apart are built similar. The problem likely is the poor fit of the bolt and the swing arm lack of proper interference fit on the swing arm.
Thanks man!
You'd have to have a much harder rubber still, even with press fit of the bolt you could flex this 20-30 degrees. Cars will usually have a much harder type of rubber, usually plastic like polyurethane which won't flex as much as this type. Also cars will have multiple links on the suspension which aid in stabilization as the forces are not subjected to one pivot point. It's just way too much force for the softness of rubber they've used. The new parts will be rigid and also the bolt fit up will be dramatically improved 👍
Yes, the rubber bushings aren’t the problem, but the one who designed it was a gender studies major not an engineer. You will never see control arm bushings mounted in the center. The center is always rock solid and the two bushings are separated by several inches. My ebike frame hard point is a 4.5” long steel tube and then the bushings are pressed in the swingarm. Works perfectly.
Adding to the bad design was the fact that it was improperly assembled. These bushings need to be snug, then the suspension compressed under the rider’s weight or mid-travel of the suspension, then tightened so that (in the case of this wrong design) the swingarm, bolt, and both center sleeves of the bushings move as one. In the video its clear it wasn’t tight and had some big washers inside doing nothing.
One simple fix that would correct it is using polyurethane bushings, but they will require a thrust washer on each side since the rubber bushing did that job before due to being vulcanized to both inner and outer sleeves.
Im sure it’s already been fixed by now. I guess ill go find that video. Lol
You are brilliant as always. Thanks for the great videos and sharing your talent with the ebike community.
Thanks so much for following along, much appreciated!!
More power baby! Ngl the main reason I clicked because I wanted to how how you where gonna fit that huge ass battery in that ebike. 😂
I *will* be able to make it fit 👍😂- just need some more tools to achieve it!
Great video, can’t wait to see how you make it work. If you’re up for the challenge for some other build you can design your own battery of that capacity to fit in the frame, probably in separate pieces. Thanks for the inspiration though knowing a build like this is even possible motivates me to build my own ebike without limits
Thank you! It's definitely challenging 😂but so far everything is coming out ok - oddly I hit more issues with my other builds that were less involved than this one (so far at least). Yes totally, I'll be trying to build my own packs for future builds, although I still think for price per watt, you don't really get a benefit by building your own pack, you can however get it to be arranged exactly as you'd like 👍 Thanks so much for the feedback and for watching!!!
You have the same problem I had 1 year ago. I chopped the top off the frame and made a lid basically the same frame.
Its so out of shape now, it needs so much more strength. I'm buying another frame to make it properly now.
I've come up with a design that is stronger than the original frame 👍 I'm curious as to what you did to fit the battery after chopping out the top? I think you can make it work, but of course a new frame will fix it too.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
🤘🤘
Awesome. I also wasted money not knowing about continuous amps😂. I just finished up my enduro 12600w build. I bought a 72v 150a 40ah battery straight from nbpower. costed 1700. You got yourself a good deal for more power and range. Respect 😎👏🏾
Thanks man! I think it's just a rite of passage if you want to get into ebikes😂Hey, it's not a waste if you learn from it haha. That's awesome man, that should be a super quick bike, enjoy! It's been a minute since I've had a real powerful bike so I'm looking forward to riding again. Thanks brother!
So much work went into this video. One problem I have right now is removing my rear wheel is such a pain in the ass!!! I wanna build a quick disconnect like you see on a lot of modern e-bikes but have no idea where to start there on cutting the cord to the hub motor! And also would loveeee to change the bushing on my swing arm like you did here! I get major shaking and my rear wheel hops around a lot at higher speeds.
Also, did you have to alter the connectors to your controller to convert to Anderson connectors? I have barrel connections right now and want to convert that as well and again no clue where to start with converting a battery connector.. I’ve done the opposite before but not sure the safety of cutting battery wires on a live battery…. Haha I never thought I’d be this deep into my build but I love the creative side of things and making it my own.
Thanks man!! Yes, adding QD to a hub motor is a very convenient feature. Just make sure the connectors can handle the power 👍 I will do this in the future and show how I did it. Remember you need to make two separate connectors, one for the controller wires, and one for the main phase wires. You can cut them anywhere is most convenient, I would say maybe a foot from the motor? Then you can zip tie the connector to the swingarm. The change I made to the bushings was a night and day difference, I would recommend trying it out.
Yes, I always change the connectors on my batteries. It's safe to do if you follow the procedure of always making sure only one cable is exposed at a time. Do not cut both wires at the same time, that would be a bad day. So you cut the red wire, and then separate the black one and keep it as far away from the red as possible, although it still will have the connector on it, so it will be safe, but I usually tape it to the other side of the battery while I work on it so it's completely out of the way. Then once you have the red wire with a connector on it, then you're safe to move on with prepping the black wire to be inserted in the connector. It's pretty straight forward. I'm also going to be making a video on ebike connectors and how to swap and change them 👍 Thanks man!
@@hightech-lowlife QD is my dream goal. Such a convenient thing that is surprisingly not on these heavy ass motors. I'd totally tune into your quick tip vids, as I seem to watch an entire series of your builds and tend to pause and rewind to see how you do things and how you learn from your mistakes. CHEERS MATE!
@@alexchavosaurus You can do it man! You're right, for these more powerful and premium motors, they should come with QD from the factory. Thanks so much for watching, I have a lot more content on the way. I appreciate it, cheers man! 🍻🍻
Thank you for your great videos! Would have the battery builder been able to build a battery that fit in terms of shape and dimensions?
How big is the battery?
Would have backpack or a rack been alternatives?
Thanks man!
Yes, but it's within limitations. The cells take up a certain amount of space so you may have to compromise in some way.
It's very big. 412 x 232 x 146mm
Not for this size battery, I suppose it's possible, but not ideally.
These Chinese bomber frames come in about five versions, the one you have is more or less the same as mine. The swingarm bushing on my version is better as they obviously addressed this situation as there is no rubber insight
They put in two hollow brass bushings on either side so when they are pushed in the connect dead centre, once they are in they then placed a steel threaded bolt, it's a very tight fit with no play, just needs grease. Overall it's a very versatile frame but it can be improved.
Yes I think they kept improving them over time, I bought mine back in 2017 or so, even the newer ones look quite a bit different even though they're basically the same design 👍
I'm throwing some bearings in mine and making sure all of the tolerances are as tight as possible (without lathing my own), it should be much more stable!
Thanks for your comment!
@@hightech-lowlife Your welcome, if I find any more suggestions I'll let you know as I am myself addicted to building and fabricating ebikes 😆
@@mountainlion4853 Awesome!! Thanks man!
They eliminated the rubber bushing on later versions and thicken the frame on mines thankfully but more expensive as was $500 plus without fork which was another $450 but got a better fork. Also is heavier but held up over a year.
Have you ever considered using Lipo batteries? You can get a lot of amps with a much smaller battery. I made a small 5.2ah supplemental lipo pack for my ebike, but its capabable of putting out 250 amps. Not that I need that much.
Yes for sure! I will be starting to make batteries on my channel, and for an upcoming project it will be lipo cells 👍Thanks!
This is Awesome. Where can I get this exact battery made please and thank you. Also guessing the dimensions 16.5 x 8.25 inches or so.
You'll have to ask them to build it for you to your specs: www.aliexpress.com/store/1100952793
70Ah, 200A BMS
412 x 232 x 146mm
2x Anderson 120A connectors
@@hightech-lowlife Thank you
@@TomiasM911 🍻🍻
That's quite a job you took on there, respect for that 😎 The 350A peak you are talking about is phase amps.. Not what your controller will pull from your battery, but will put into your motor. It's a long story, but it has to do with getting DC in and making a kind of ac out through your three phase wires.. More about that on Google though 😅
Keep up the good work 🤘
Thank you!! Oh yeah, I do know about phase amps (each phase pushes the stator along to the next ring of energized magnets, etc) - this controller will actually do 450A phase, I don't see the peaks for it though - most controllers will give you a RMS and peak rating (3 or 10 second burst).
I do remember when messing with my phase amps before that it would make a huge difference in acceleration and top end. If this isn't enough (😂) I'll move on to a 800A RMS controller 👍should be fine more than adequate though, my target is anything past 60mph. Thanks so much man!!
Where are you going to put the controller?
I'll show you in the next video in this series 👍- there really was only one place I could put it 😂
i have the same frame and its pretty sheitty one. rear shock mounts are weak. its have deformation on both sides. my friend said that they pushed inside after front crash into wall or smth. and spot welding inside this frame is bad. after couple drops from the bike some spots just cracked)
I agree, it's not the best frame to begin with. I'm making my modifications right now and I can't make everything perfectly aligned, because the frame itself is not perfectly aligned 😂I'll see how it will handle and keep adding reinforcement as it needs, maybe eventually it will be a whole new frame with all new metal. I've never dropped my bike before, but I don't think it would like it, just the frame + battery is nearly 80lbs now.
@@hightech-lowlife are you located in Florida?
@@ytsoulcollectorvi1695 Negative 🚷
Do you have a link to parts used in fixing the bushing problem in the rear swing arm?
@@WaggonerWoodworking
www.aliexpress.com/item/2255800567838389.html
16101 12x30x8, 2RS seal
I bought 8 but I think I only used 5pc, it depends on how you want to fill the gap between the bearings, I just loaded it up with more bearings 👍
3:20 min hello what solution to the problem ?? will you roll some bushings + bearings ??
New bolt + bearings! I think I followed up with this in part 4 👍
@@hightech-lowlife Are you on Facebook??? I invite you to my channel about building a bike on this frame .. and modifications :)
do you remember what bearings you used ?? size and model?
@@kazmirzleszno For sure:
16101 12x30x8, 2RS seal
I bought them from this seller: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000754153141.html
Hi. Where did you get that custom battery??? Thanks..
I had it custom made from this company: foxelion.aliexpress.com/store/3517067
Just a word of caution if you purchase from them, for a battery this size, they will ship by boat, and it took mine 3+ months to arrive. 👍
Thanks for the info. Have you had any issues with the battery? Seems quality made on your video unlike other battery packs I've seen.
@@dennis_503_gutierrez I haven't had any issues with this pack, this mfg is reputable and have sold a lot of batteries. Always check sales numbers and feedback (reviews) when looking at battery sellers. If they have a lot of sales over a long amount of time and the feedback from prior sales looks good then I would trust the manufacturer.
@@hightech-lowlife thank you. I'll check them out and see if I can get one from them..
@@dennis_503_gutierrez Yeah they can do custom dimensions/bms/etc, just message them and tell them what you want 👍
Man i love watching your work so much forget to blink! Amazing. Keep it up
Thanks so much man, I appreciate it!
I was wondering where you get your ebike battery from like I need a 72v 60 ah??
I had it custom made from this company: foxelion.aliexpress.com/store/3517067
Just a word of caution if you purchase from them, for a battery this size, they will ship by boat, and it took mine 3+ months to arrive. 👍
Could you add pegs? I’m saving up to get me a CS20 Cyclone
Yeah for sure! Easy to adapt pegs instead of pedals 👍
These controllers and hub motor over heat in a few miles, have you fin a way to cool them
I've never had a problem with overheating, what motor and controller have you used that has overheating? Thanks
I kinda feel your pain there... my friend had modified longjohn cargo bikes into (70 kmph) speed monsters. He showed me only a few things he spend weeks working on, I already had my mind blown. But the thing is... On a cargo bike YOU ACTUALLY HAVE SPACE TO PUT THE BATTERY! xD
Thanks!!! Yes, you can fit a ton of stuff on a cargo bike, plenty of room for batteries 😂I will make it work though, I will be doing my first welds ever this weekend so 🤞hopefully I can pull it off, otherwise I'll use a million pounds of duct tape 💪- Thanks man!!
Hi how you vonect you ignition key switch
I don't run a key on my ebikes, I just use the motor controller handlebar controls to turn the bike on/off. It's easy to wire in a switch though with a key if you want, just put the switch inline with power or ground to the battery, or if your bike has a ton of power and your switch isn't robust enough just use the key to switch a relay 👍
I'm sure there are already ton of videos on how to do it, but I can make one if you want. Thanks.
Hey I just wanted to say thank you for this video one thing I want to ask I bought an ebike really nice what do you think about the 72.v60ah this is the first time I've ever had a battery this big so what do you think about the power that I'm going to get this time it's a 15000watt 200amp controller I wanted the 72.v70ah but they didn't have it so what do you think about 60ah is that really good or good
Thank you!! I think 60Ah is still a huge battery, you just have to make sure the discharge BMS is high amperage too (150-200A). You technically don't need a huge battery to get the amount of power you want, but it does help with voltage sag and runtime. Unless you need to go great distances 40Ah is probably the best for a 200A output, plus it still will fit in most frames 👍 I only went with this battery because it was roughly the same price as the 40Ah pack, and I also wanted the challenge of stuffing a huge battery in the frame.
Hi fellow Biker and handyman from Bomber, lol! When I see the beginning of your video and you tell us that this big play in the axis of the swingarm you had it when you received your frame KIT which is apparently the same as mine, (I'm going to put you 'elsewhere the AliExpress link of my FRAME KIT), But if as you say, if this game really existed at the start, first of all it must have been weak, and I would say: that it is rather wear and tear because of from what I understand, you have been building it for several years and I think that you have probably done a lot of off-roading with this Bomber and therefore if there was already a little play at the start, by doing a lot of km on very degraded terrain, this has prematurely worn out the steel axle and the inserts embedded in the rubber silent-blocks which apparently have also taken a hit, because we see that they are no longer centered in the silent-block and that the surface seen from the silent blocks is damaged.
When you mount this axle you have to add a lot of grease and if you haven't done it, well, it wears the steel much faster and it protects against corrosion and water infiltration.
For my part, whether it's this axis or the cassette of my crankset, it seems solid on mine. But hey, I haven't done a lot of km with it yet and I haven't done any terrain either, because I do some with my big electric fat bike.
fr.aliexpress.com/item/32983628575.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2fra&spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27426c37tovZ55
Here is mine :
ruclips.net/video/ma934qaQ_NU/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/iwId9PZXCyY/видео.html
And this is my 6th try :
ruclips.net/video/XzTBGjGuoYo/видео.html
My battery was made to measure, it is a 53 Ah 72 Volt with bms of 100 Amps in discharge and 50 Amps in charge and it is equipped with new lighter Samsung cells and weighs only 16.5 kg.
During my 6th try, I did 63 km with good hills and a good average and if I had done a bit of off-road or all-terrain driving slower I'm sure I could have done around 75 km which is more than enough to have fun, I think, So why all this work which will weaken the frame a lot and therefore you will have to weld external reinforcements, otherwise the frame will bend and what are you you will gain in autonomy: maybe 15 km more or even 20, but not more I think especially with a bms which delivers 200 amps in nominal discharge...
Hello friend! Yes, this kit is older though, the new kits (that are the same frame) have a brass bushing that has no slop/play in it. I can assure you this was not wear and tear as it was like this from the beginning when I first built it, it has always had this play and it's because of the rubber. You noticed that it was off-center on one of them too, that also came like that, it's just a poor quality part. 👍I will be adding bearings to this instead so I won't need to grease it as the bearings are sealed from dirt.
If you purchased your frame past 2017 it will have a newer part there, but it also could just be a different manufacturer, I had an EEB frame from around the same time, and it used bearings there, it really just depends.
I should get 75-100 miles of range, but it's not really about that for me, it's just to do something different and I needed a project to start welding and this was a small package to work on that wasn't overwhelming - there is no real "necessary" point to doing it, I could have bought a smaller battery, a different frame, or just bought a premade bike where I don't have to do anything. The frame will be reinforced and it will be heavier, but with 20+KW adding even another 20-30lbs won't make much of a difference in how fast it is. 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks man!!
@@hightech-lowlife
Thank you, friend,
I completely agree with you, and I went to see the photos I had taken before mounting my Bomber, and I noticed this big and thick brass roundel embedded in a steel part which as you say, will prevent having this game play. And since I put a lot of good grease before mounting it, I think it will hold despite the 80 kg of my Bomber plus me who weighs between 77 and 78 kg. But as you say, if you put bearings instead, it will be waterproof and also much more solid and indestructible because it is not a part that rotates completely. And I give you the AliExpress link of my frame KIT that I actually bought f :
rom another supplier than yours, (I just told you in a review on another of your videos, and I ordered it December 2, 2020 👍✌
fr.aliexpress.com/item/32983628575.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2fra&spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27426c37tovZ55
@@pat_0248 Yes, if you bought it recently then it will not have the rubber bushing 😁Either way it should be totally fine for holding the weight, I only put bearings because they were cheaper than finding a bushing that size. Thank you!
Wow, I am only 5 mins into the video so far but I gotta say how glad I am you made this bc I haven’t ridden my bike for a couple months now due to this exact swingarm problem. I’ve been searching the internet for over a year since I first felt it wobbling during my rides and couldn’t find much. Finally it just got too dangerous at high speed. I bought a full stack of bearings and spacer to try and fit in over the center rod. Haven’t gotten around to starting the project yet until today, and poof this video appears in my feed. Thanks universe! Anyways, now that I wrote a novel lol, I’ll unpause the video to see what you came up with. 😎
Thanks! Yes, I have fixed this issue with bearings and also I bought a new bolt, the original bolt is also too small and there is a small bit of play. I haven't implemented the fixes yet because I'm still working on the frame, but after that I'll definitely show you guys my swingarm mount setup and I'm confident it will have near-zero wiggle. Thanks man!
Where can u find that battery?
Custom built, but you can get one like it, please check the other comments I've answered this Q many times for others 👍
Where did you get the battery?
It was custom made from this mfg: www.aliexpress.com/item/32970567989.html
Holy fuck….that’s a big battery….I’m guessing a good mig welder will be needed, I might get one of those myself, I’m a good welder and welding sheet metal is second nature to me.
If I do this that battery will be living inside the frame, and the charger will be built into the frame’ if it fits without compromising safety….I personally think it can be made to work….if you have the ability to sheet metal weld and work with MDF plastic and a heat gun to mold the plastic….you will either need to tack wield bolts on the outside or tap and die threads into the side cover’ the battery is definitely not going anywhere.
Just weld some brackets in to restore structural Integrity….and it will definitely work, so far your doing good.
However your gonna need so special tools and skills….first a mig or arc welder’ it’s gonna be very important to set the heat on the welder’ or you will burn through the sheet metal….you will only be welding in steel stalk for reinforcement….the part that sticks out can be held with MDF plastic 1/8 to 1/4 and a heat gun to mold a plastic top cover.
I wish I was able to see one of these frames….I could’ve saved money and build a frame from scratch….most of the frame uses 1mm sheet metal.
Awesome man, yeah I did pick up a tig welder (the latest video in this series I go over it 👍)
I suppose I could just weld the battery in to the frame, but I wanted a way to be able to replace it later on down the road, so I came up with a design that would allow access to the battery without too much trouble. So far it seems to be stronger than what was there before my mods.
I did think about building a frame from scratch, and that was going to be my backup plan if this first idea didn't work out well, but so far it seems to be working!
Good luck on your bike builds, thanks for the comments!
Link for the battery please
What frame are you trying to put this battery in?
Currently working on my own bmx build similar to yours. My first ebike build. With all the builds you've done, you've got tons of experience sourcing affordable but reliable batteries. If you were looking for a 72v 20ah (without building yourself) who would you buy from? Thanks in advance and love all the videos and writeups.
Thanks man, I'm sure you will have a lot of fun with your BMX build!
Honestly, most of the packs I've bought were from places most would consider "shady" - places like eBay, Aliexpress, etc. So far my experiences with all of the battery packs I have ever bought have been favorable. I've never had one fail, explode, fire, etc. That's not to say those things can't happen and aren't a possibility. A lot of the larger packs I've had custom made for me have been from mfg's in China, which is fine but there is a language barrier that can make things a bit more difficult, and also the possibility of a very long wait time for your battery. For smaller packs that aren't custom made, I just find some on eBay and they have worked well (Amazon would work too). Just try to find one in the dimensions you need with the Ah requirements met. That's what I would do.
It just depends on who you are and what you value most, I'm willing to put myself (and money) at more risk to gain value, as I also like to experiment with various sellers and companies so I have a better experiential understanding of what's out there. I understand that most people aren't like that though, and would prefer just to pay more (or a lot more) for something more 'reputable'.
If you want to go with the most reputable, reliable, "as certain as you can get" for a battery places that are well known such as Luna Cycle, em3ev, and others. You will pay more, but they will back the packs they make, offer great support service, etc.
I pretty much buy batteries like anything else I buy, check to see if a seller or mfg has been around a while, what their customers are saying for reviews. Generally if a seller has been around 5+ years and has had thousands of sales, chances are that they make a good enough product.
Good luck man! 👍
Now subbed. I’m a 65Ah battery bike and I do totally understand. Great content.
Welcome! 🙌 Oh, you have a huge battery too! Cool bike, I like the dual rotors up front 👍 Thank you so much!!
Heya dude just found your content and I'm really enjoying it, I'm trying to do custom ebike but to sell myself do you know anywhere I can get relatively cheap motor kits and batteries, I'm building one of these bikes but I'm putting my own spin on it too, trying to turn one into a low down cruiser/ cafe racer/ Street fighter type style, I'm not particularly trying to get speed as I'm in the UK and the laws aren't so forgiving, doing this to try start my own business and also do I can get some money to build my own 🤣😅, I'm trying to build the one I'm building obviously just to be a cruiser a show piece I guess but also to get a big enough battery that will give the bike decent range
Thanks man!! I get all my batteries/motors/controllers off aliexpress, ebay or amazon - there are a lot of good quality parts for not too much money. You should totally try it out, ebikes are just now growing in popularity, they are a great alternative to cars for semi-close commuting 👍 Good luck on your adventures!
Why did you put 2 plugs on your battery?
Each plug is rated for 150A, the BMS RMS is 200A, 2 plugs is good for 300A 👍
@@hightech-lowlife I see. So you run one plug to the battery and one to the BMS? Am I understanding that correctly?
@@TerminusWindowCleaning The BMS is internal, both connectors are coming from the BMS (which is fed from the battery). They are both outputs that are connected to the controller.
I don't see how you will have room to to integrate braces to regain structural integrity unless you put them on outside of frame
Keep watching the rest of the series 😎
Will do!
@@josephgeorgeejr7039 Thanks man!!
Range with 70 ah beast b@tt?
60-80 miles @25-30, depends on average speed though.
Effin love this guy. This battery is big yea but you can get a smaller pack by building one yourself of 21700s (nkon).
Thank you! Yes I will be venturing into building my own packs in the future 👍
Man this battery is HUGE. Do you have such a long trips to drain whole capacity? Also the theoretical peak power of the battery is limited with your controller peak power, so even the Sabvonton 200 won't use full potential of the battery.
The NMC CATL batteries are twice cheaper than 18650 configs with the same current specs
It really was just about value as the 40AH packs I was looking for were about the same cost, I also wanted to do something different. I figured with 70AH my voltage sag would also be less when really dumping the throttle!
The Sab 200 should do 350+ for bursts of 3-10 seconds so I should be able to use more than I can handle. I don't even know if 200A is usable really, I'll have to try it out 😂
Thanks man, I'll check out those batteries, I will try making my own pack for some builds in the future!
Epic video mate. Thanks. Keep it up !
Thanks so much man!!
Where can I order me one from can you give me the website 🙂
It was custom made from this mfg: www.aliexpress.com/item/32970567989.html
I'm interested in the python paint look. Is this something you did yourself or something else ? I really like the look and would like to be able to add that to my design. Great video !
Thank you! Yes, go here for an in depth tutorial: ruclips.net/video/xF2ldzoYqH8/видео.html
Same issue on my engwe x26
Rattle-y swingarm?
Plasma cutter ?
Some day 😎
battery dimensions??
420 x 160 x 235mm
I'm in a hurry to see how you're going to finish this project, I saw at the end on your 3D software what you're planning for the reinforcements and it looks good to me. I myself used a lot of this software because I worked for 22 years with a heritage architect, in Paris 8th as a draftsman and architectural assistant, and therefore worked a lot on AutoCAD and direct 3D software as in last with SKetchUp. And I also understood that you had done that to practice welding, lol!
Thank you! Yes, I do have a plan at least, but depending on how much reinforcement is required I might have to do a few iterations, most likely I will overbuild it, but I'm planning to do steps and check how much flex there is (if any) and then build up more from there. 👍
3D software has helped me a lot in my latest projects because the more complicated they get it's harder to envision it all in your head, it really helps to have a reference like that, even if it's not fully precise.
Yes, I have some larger projects with welding in mind, but I didn't think it was a good idea to dive into those without more experience, so I figured this was just a smaller project to get my feet wet before diving into something over my head 😂Thanks man!!
@@hightech-lowlife
I never dared to get into arc welding, otherwise I think I might have done like you, I would have modified my frame to have a more powerful battery, but what would have been better, it is that the manufacturers of these frames, make it a little wider, because my specialist in custom-made batteries wanted to put me longer cells, only the almost 14 cm wide, were not enough, too bad, it was not missing big thing...
Moi je n'ai jamais osé me lancer dans la soudure à l'arc, sinon je pense que j'aurais peut être fait comme toi, j'aurais modifié mon cadre pour avoir une batterie plus puissante, mais ce qui aurait été mieux, c'est que les constructeurs de ces cadres, le fassent un peu plus large, car mon spécialiste des batteries sur mesures voulait me mettre des cellules plus longues, seulement les presque 14 cm de large, ne suffisaient pas, dommage, il ne manquait pas grand chose...
@@pat_0248 The EEB frame is narrower than this frame I have, this is the biggest frame I have seen in terms of battery size, but there may be others out there. Another thing you could do is just widen the side panels to accommodate a larger pack too 👍
@@hightech-lowlife
Yes also, it's true that it would be a good solution at a lower cost and not difficult to do...
But now that I have my battery that I paid 2600 euros, it's too late, lol! I still have good autonomy and power with my bms which does 100 Amps in discharge I go up to almost 100 Km/h in about 9 seconds, that's enough I think, even if I'm eternally dissatisfied, it always need more lol!
Oui aussi, c'est vrai que ça serait une bonne solution à moindre coût et pas difficile à faire...
Mais maintenant que j'ai ma batterie que j'ai payé 2600 euros, c'est trop tard, lol ! j'ai quand même une bonne autonomie et puissance avec mon bms qui fait 100 Ampères en décharge je monte à presque 100 Km/h en 9 secondes environ, c'est suffisant je pense, même si je suis un éternel insatisfait, il m'en faut toujours plus lol !
Love it! Great job!
Thank you so much!!
Have you tried using a bearing from a gas bike chain guide….it’s a cheap white plastic pully wheel…but inside it has a metal ball bearing…if that can fit that space it could be night and day for the rear fork cradle arm….my frame is a lot different….but I will see the size or maybe fabricate the frame.
You might be able to use bushings off a old full suspension MTB, or the inserts for a old style gooseneck….I work on cars and fabricate cars…I have many automotive pulleys floating around….I will see if I can find a proper size bearing.
I’m posting a build video for my DIY 3000w stealth bomber frame….I used normal front suspension forks’ but good ones’ I won’t be doing major trails….the bike will be my company bike….to showcase my converted E-bikes, by state law I can only do 750w kits…I also use gas bikes to reel customers in, and 95% of the time they end up buying a E-bike instead.
I usually hope they don’t buy the gas bike….but if they do, there’s no warranty, and sold as….gas bikes are terrible for business, ppl thinking they can commute more than 20miles each day’ on a gas bike’ is insane.
No matter how good you build a gas bike….someone still manage to tear them up….I have to govern my gas bikes down to 20 mph, but some idiot always manages to by pass it, and ride them on sidewalks’ very very illegal.
Thanks man! I actually found some bearings that are the exact size for the swingarm at about 0.50c per bearing, so I bought a bunch for about $5 👍
I did try to think of just using a bushing, if I had a lathe I would just make something myself, but luckily you can get bearings in just about any size you can think of these days and for cheap.
I'll check out your ebike, to me the biggest downside to a gas conversion is the noise, those things are always deafening and it's not a cool or pleasant noise like a V8. I do think at this time that they are still a cheaper alternative to ebikes, but as battery costs come down and gas prices go up, that will eventually change as well 😁
@@hightech-lowlife awesome…I knew there was bearings floating around…to fit that size. 👍
Gas bikes are cheaper…unfortunately many buyers…don’t know how to ride them, or have no knowledge how to do repairs…one guy kept bringing his back…every time he developed a rear flat…he ended up ducking out without paying for labor…he then burns out the clutch packs…after he tried not paying again…it gave me a reason to tell him to take a hike
Some people in Florida are unbelievable
@@ebperformance8436 Hell yeah! I don't know the size off the top of my head but I will definitely put that info in the video where I install them 👍
That's the worst when people keep breaking stuff and expecting you to fix it, especially if they don't want to pay you for your time. I think most people are cool and are understanding but there will always be people that want something for nothing.
Florida is certainly a special place that's for sure, both good and bad 😁!
@@hightech-lowlife yeah and the bad part was…it was a gas conversation’ using his own bike’ that was my first mistake’ the bike he bought in was a old POS….it had bad bearings, very old and bent rim, bad cup bearings inside the forks cup area, broken coaster brake, and star gear….bottom line….it was junk…I made him bring me some unbent rims, and charged him for the repairs made on the bike’ if I went back In time, I would’ve refused that bike’ he was also too big for the bike…the guy almost weigh 300pounds….it was like pulling teeth, to make him pay for the repairs on the POS bike….I ended up not doing those repairs, and made him sign a voucher…..making me not responsible for anything that breaks on the bike.
The bike was a mess….the handle bars rattled, both bearings on the wheels were bad….I had no choice but to repair the back rim’ to avoid chain pops’ it was a learning experience, and I stop offering conversions to customer owned bikes….the second time he broke the Bike….he had the balls to ask if he could borrow one of my electric bike…while I repaired his…I laughed very hard, and told him not a chance in hell.
He wanted to invest into my business, with no money’ the guy lived in a freaking van’ I finally told him to take a hike….I had to block his number, and get a restraining order….to not go on my property’ his text messages were filled with threats’ I showed the cop the messages….and he was served with a no trespassing order.
If you build bikes….stay away from conversions, I sold over 11 E-bikes and not one complaint….You can earn good money on gas bikes….but it’s not worth it….the E-bike might have a bigger price tag, but I do make a good profit for them…E-bikes are way more superior than a weed whacked 2 stroke gas bike….and I won’t get into the part about explaining the oil mixtures….during break in.
@@ebperformance8436 Sounds like a nightmare! Thankfully you don't have to deal with that guy anymore, I think most people are genuine but some people definitely are not.
I would have started a few businesses already, but having worked in small companies prior it's a lot of hassle for reasons you have mentioned. There will always be at least a few people that will make your life hell.
I agree with ebikes over gas, aside from battery prices (which will be fixed) they make a lot more sense and thankfully there is high demand for them now.
Your skills are insane, and your tattoos are killer, but how are you still at home borrowing your dad’s tools? You’re like a DIY Picasso in your mom’s basement, which is pretty funny.🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks man! These are my tools though 👍
@@hightech-lowlife Whose angle grinder was that-yours or your dad’s? Either way, you crushed it! Thanks for the video-I know those were his masonry disks, and that makes it even better🔥👍
@@ly6982 Yeah, those were his discs I haven't ventured into working with concrete. This build is quite old now, my fabrication skills have markedly improved. This was the first project I ever welded or even really cut anything with a angle grinder 👍 Thanks man
That is awesome that is one huge battery
Thanks man! It's a 🍩 fatty
i mean a custom one from a person that makes battery's could have made you a smaller 70ah one using 21700 cells. How do you know for sure its 70ah. well nvm I guess the shear size it should be lol
It's possible, but it's not only about range - that's kind of secondary 👍I'll get into building my own packs later on for sure. It's definitely huge! 😁
Man these bomber Frames are weak and fail in so many areas I'd definitely would be welding an exo skeleton around that existing frame good thing it's steal anything's possible great battery fitting but I think a little bit of padding is in order.
I love it so mutch if I had that battery pack I would go for rides only for long range
Thanks!! If you keep your speeds down to sane levels I'm pretty sure this bike is going to be able to go very far on a single charge 💪
Nice job
Thank you!! Cheers! 💥
Hi m8 yes you are doing the same as I've done with my bike same size battery as well.
Oh really? That's awesome, how did it go?!
Yes big azz bat the way to go... Just kind of your car redundant 🖤
Thanks man!!
👌
Thanks brother!! 🤘
So far so good
Thanks man!!
Owsm bro 👍
Thanks brother!!
It's like my life watching this video.... common sense its not that common lol
Sadly it is not, but it should be 🍻
its nice good job
Thanks man!
My swing arm bushing is metal
I have the gtx 72 40ah and mine is only rated at 100amp about bypass discharge
Yes, all of the newer ones (even of these cheap frames) come with brass bushings, it was only the very early models that came with rubber bushings.
How much was that pack if you don't mind me asking? All the 40Ah packs that I saw were around the same price as this one $1250-1500 range. Thanks!
@@hightech-lowlife I payed $808 shipped to door
Have u ever had the over current code pop up on your sabaton controllers like when I get on the throttle on hit a bomb not even hard it throws the code then I gotta turn the bike on and to start riding again
Buy a Stick welder my friend. Youll be able to pick one up for 50 bucks or so and since the frame is probably made from ordinary construction steel, youll be able to reinforce it from the sides/the top without too much training or cost.
If only you had told me this 3 weeks ago 😂I've been having a hell of a time getting my TIG machine set up, but I'm almost there 💪
Good lord, do not buy a stick welder for welding sheet metal. Stick is for heavy guage steel. Mig or Tig is what you want. Get one that uses argon. Everlast makes some decent budget welders.
@@Twin_turbo_coyote_fox Thanks man, I think you can use stick for smaller pieces, might not be the easiest thing to do though 👍I suspect a lot of blowout if you're trying to weld thinner steel. No sheet metal welding on this project yet - I do have a new TIG machine though, never welded in my life so I'll be showing you guys my progress. Thank you!
@@hightech-lowlife If you can, by all means go for TIG. I think it's the best process for frame work :). I do however think that Stick-welding is best suited for those that are new to welding.
Personally I have suceeded in welding 1.5mm wall tubing with 1.6mm 6013 Stick. Blowout is a problem on such projects, Amperage and Feeding speeds have to be correct which is why you would always make a couple of test pieces to figure that out before getting at a serious project. These downsides of Stick compared to MIG/TIG can be mitigated though and for someone not that into metalworking and especially those of us one a budget, a used Stick AC Buzzbox or even a Stick Inverter is the best bet.
If youre getting into TIG I'd advise you to always be as comfortable as you can when welding. That way youll learn as quick as possible and have repeatable results. :))
@@jellolon8435 I'm going to disagree..if your a new welderig Mig is the best. It's the most versatile. Stick is very sloppy and wide on precision welds. Tube might be ok but welding thinner sheet metal is ugly. You will spend more time grinding you welds than actually welding. If he owns a TIG you can stick weld with it. I've personally never used the stick welder on mine.
Regardless of our opinions, the OP chose the best type of welder for this project. Anything you want to look precion and pretty, go TIG. Pick up a good pedal when you can. It makes a world of difference once you get familiar with your machine. Practice makes perfect. Cheers guys.
Awesome
Thanks man!
Nice.
Thanks!! 🤘
👊👀
🤘🤘
who cares if its stupid, we just want you to finish it
100%!! Working on it, thanks man! 💪
You are part of Anonymous….oooooooooh your in trouble…
EXPECT US!!! 🤖
Mate you want it you make it happen m i right
You got it 😎 !
Dude if your ebike battery 🔋 gets to big why don’t you just buy a motorcycle 🏍. Ebikes are for older people who just want to get some exercise without killing themselves
Fully disagree! Plus I have two motorcycles 👍next project is one of them!
Ebikes come in all shapes and forms and for all kinds of people. Some people just want minimal pedal-assist so they still can get 'some' exercise, while others want a more moto-like experience. To me a powerful ebike that can take you very far is a blend of the best of both worlds from bikes and motorcycles.
Dude I got that ebike it has two batteries 🔋 over 40 amp hours two motors two thousand watts and it heavy as hell I need a donkey to load it on my truck 🛻 it’s not that fun because it’s so heavy 🥺😩grandma want let me ride on Sundays.
@@mogeking56 It just depends on what you're going for 👍 If you have a donkey already why do you need an ebike? 😂 Just ride that! 🎠Why are you putting an ebike in a truck, you're supposed to ride the ebike!
I have all kinds of ebikes, some lightweight (my BMX is 3KW and only weighs about 50lbs) but this bike will be very heavy, about 130lbs, but it will also have about 6x the amount of power.
You might just be into a different type of ebike, try out a 1500W kit on a light frame, it will be plenty fast and a lot lighter than one with a 40AH battery and dual motors (also a lot cheaper). I've made quite a few like this and they are easy to pick up, much more like a regular bicycle.
40mph is about the limit in which you're fighting the wind, you can be super light and low wattage and cheap to get up to that speed, but once you want to go faster than that, you will pay a lot more, and things will need to be much more powerful which will mean a lot heavier.
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Hello I'M NOTORUS IRBY IN NEWARK NEW JERSEY BRO I HERD YOU SAID 70VOLTS &70 AMPS PLEASE TELL ME HOW FAR CAN YOU GO ON 70AMP HOW MANY MILES THAS WHAT I really wants to know please I'm keerius As HARD CORE IKNOW THAT YOU CAN GO REAL FAR AND BACK HOME AN STEEL HAVE A LOTS OF BATTERY POWER PLEASE YOU HAVE REGENERATION BREAKS TO KEEP YOUR BATTERY CHARGE 🙏 PRAY 💯🏁 THAS SO KOOLL DUDE SO PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU HAVE TIME TO WRITE ME BACK I HAVE AND ESCOOTER AND I HOPE THAT ICAN FIND ASIXTY VOLTS BATTERY WITH 50 AMPS AND HOPE TO MAKE MY REAR SINGLE ESCOOTER WHEEL MORE FASTER THAN IT IS SO THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME &SERVICE I HOPE YOU IS HAPPY WITH YOUR BATTERY KEEP ON DOING WHAT YOUR HEARTS DESIGNER FROM NOTORIUS IRBY BRO JUST DO WHATS MAKES YOU HAPPY MAY Be I'll SEE YOU AND YOU JUST MAY SAY TO ME I KNOW HOW TO HELP YOU FIX YOUR ESCOOTER 🙏 PRAY ILL BE WAITING FOR YOUR COMMENT THANK YOU AGAIN MUCH LOVE TO U BRO
Thanks man! Yeah it's 70AH! 72V (84V really) - On a similar setup with a 30AH pack I was able to go 40-60 miles on a charge, so this should go 80-120 miles depending. Yes, it also has regen brakes, but regen will only add a few percentage back, you really just want it for the braking power.
If your controller can handle it you may be able to up the volts, 60V is pretty rare, as the common voltages are 48, 52 and 72 for ebikes. There are a lot of factors that go into how to make an ebike (scooter, etc) faster, unfortunately usually the components are matched, so having a bigger battery, or motor, or controller alone will not help as these systems work together. Most likely you can bump up the volts a bit, but if you're trying to go too far you may damage the controller or motor (usually the controller first) - although most will have built-in protection, so it just won't let you push them. It really just depends on what components you have and how tolerant they are to handling more juice.
Good luck man, thanks for your comment!