I love stone! Thanks for the tips on how to install it. Videos like this can be used by folks when they talk to their builder or architect to have informed discussions and ask the right questions. Thanks.
Matt, as a builder and fan of yours I've been following your for a while and have always had the same feelings about some of your videos. You use some really great products/materials along with techniques but often they are very expensive and not practical within a budget for most projects. I would love to see videos where these same techniques can be used and goals met, but more economically (if at all possible). Always appreciate your knowledge you share with everyone. Thanks!
Love what you're doing with this channel. You're making home building "cool", main stream and easy to understand. Thanks so much. I'm an aspiring home builder and these videos help a ton
Matt I have often wondered why no architect has ever specd some sort of border trim around the windows between them and the stone that could be unscrewed so when you wanted to replace the window in 20 years you could just remove your trim piece between the brick or stone and the window and remove the old window and install a new one and then reinstall the trim piece whether it be made out of some sort of Brazilian hardwood, metal, or pvc, or vinyl or any other option that will not rot. The brick or stone is always bricked all the way to touch the window and you can never get to the flanges again and can never install another new construction window. This leaves you with the only option of replacement windows with no flange. All I am saying is in terms of future maintenance of the building it does not make since to put a product that lasts centuries over a product that lasts decades and limit your options for future replacement. I would really like to see a house that is very simple to change or upgrade all windows and doors because they don't last forever. A piece of 2x4 ipe wrapped around the window and the stone placed up to that instead of the window would be a game changer in terms of future maintenance. I like your work and admire your excellent attention to detail. Thanks for the video.
7 лет назад
I've wondered about using plastic / wood decking for window / door bucks on masonry homes, such as ICF and SCIP.
Matt, this video is excellent! Have you ever considered a video series or book that details Home construction from start to finish? There is a huge need for builders (who may not be high performance builders like yourself) who would really benefit from your insight. There is an abundance of information available online but it doesn’t cover the build from a comprehensive point of view. Long time subscriber. Keep up the great work. Thanks
Another great post Matt. It looks fantastic. A couple of follow up questions: 1) any concerns with water working its way through around the masonry anchor bolts? 2) will you create an an additional post showing how you finished the stone sills? I’m curious to learn how you’ll address rain hitting and potentially resting around this area. Thank you.
Todd Nagle Chances are their will be leaks unless they flash the sills and give a minimum pitch of 14 degrees. Sadly Ive seen videos were his crew left flat sills.
wonderful walls but you have now shown me any roller shutters...certainly somewhere you have addressed this..I used German Rouladen roller shutters to increase R values with foam filled vanes and dead air space plus the security, privacy and noise benefits.
So, the stone facade will last centuries. The structure of the house appears to be abundantly protected. My question is, How long are those windows going to last? The window crew that has to replace them is going to hate seeing the stone cover up the window flanges. In general, that practice should be considered low end. What is your replacement option going to look like? What are your thoughts?
Thank you for the word correction Professor. By all means, feel free to elaborate on how I am wrong. Please do refer to your extensive background in this field, too. Thanks in advance.
Matt, I am a big fan and I’ve watched a ton of your vids. It seems there is soooo much care or details that need to be executed on your exterior walls because of the wood construction. Why not just use concrete and be done? A well compacted base and you’ve got a solid frame that will outlive anyone without the use of sophisticated sheathing, drainage ect ect. I realize I’m bias from growing up in south Florida but man it’s bugging me on this question. Thanks!
Hi Matt, Awesome assembly method. I am currently designing a 3-storey residence in Ucluelet on the beautiful West Coast of Vancouver Island (Canada) and the client has envisioned their residence to be entirely clad in stone. I think given the climatic region, your assembly would work perfectly... If you might have design detail drawings available to share, that would be greatly appreciated indeed... Keep up the great work. Love your channel mate! All the very best to you! Austin
Thanks Matt. Is it possible to install comfort board directly over stucco? If so, how would you suggest installing cultured stone over top of the comfort board. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. How do you deal with bees creating hives on the cavity? A small hole anywhere in the structure is an access point for them. Another question, at 6:00 you can see the density of screws needed to hold the insulation (on the green surface), so how much is the thermal bridging effect they produce? Has anybody calculated it? Great video
MATT, in zone 4 climate, I want a hot roof and I will use the comfort rockwool, brick cladding. My question is, do you vent the soffit for air movement behind the brick? I want to use a wood soffit and metal roof.
I need your help with a design. I'm designing a ICF house and want to know how to add brick/stone to an entire ICF house if I have a 10' basement. I don't like the design of the ICF brick ledge because it will not be strong enough for all the stone I will have above it. Can you please make a video on how to do this. I'm currently think about adding concrete brick/stone ledge 10' tall from the footing on the outside of the stand ICF blocks.... Your thoughts Thanks Eric
We are building a SIP house with rough not milled stone all irregular cut. If I cover the SIP with blue paint on vapor barrior do I need to add the insulation and dimple before erecting the stone? The fascia will all be under overhangs and balconies, it will have weep holes and anchors to the sip panel.
What kinds of stones would these be and where would I get them for a whole house project? My dream is to make a Georgian colonial home with stone and this is the perfect.
great topic and well explained. would like it you could some day address doing the same building envelope in the northeast US. I'm concerned about the vapor barrier being located incorrectly but would like you hear your thoughts on that. thanks for your great work in the field.
Is there any special structural considerations when adhering a masonry veneer over the lath which is over mineral wool instead of directly fastened to the sheathing?
Matt: Love the videos. For the layman (non-builder), have you previously covered the topic of building houses that "breathe" vs. houses that are air tight. I seem to get mixed signals on the topic. About to start a renovation and want to make sure that the contractor and I are on the same page for making changes to a home built in 1958. Thanks.
It is confusing. You hear "make it air tight" but also "if it can't dry, it dies". And to make it more confusing, there is a difference between air barriers, vapor barriers, and waterproofing. The concept of a house breathing comes from when houses didn't use insulation and weren't air conditioned. Once we made it cold on the inside, it created surfaces for condensation to occur however, and suddenly you have mold growing there. This happens, of course, on the exterior walls where the cold meets the hot outside. We also used to ventilate houses by opening windows. That was the old way of air conditioning. With OSB absorbing more moisture than traditional plywood, with air conditioning, and creating an unobservable cavity within our walls where insulation is and covering it up with drywall, we have created an environment where moisture can accumulate and grow mold. So, with all of that, our idea of breathing houses needed to be changed. Air tightness is the solution to control where cold and hot air goes. Really it's about moisture, but as I said: condensation MAKES moisture accumulate in places all at once. So if we can prevent condensing surfaces (by controlling where hot and cold air goes: air tightness), we can control moisture. Hence, all the hoopla about air tightness. A good way to look at it is: the more inside you go with your wall layer, the more air tight you want it to be, but on the outside, you want it to breathe. Generally, anything outside the weather resistant barrier (WRB) will be subject to water from humidity, rain, and capillary action, so it needs to breathe in order to dry out. But on the inside, as long as you are running your air conditioner and maybe a dehumidifier, that alone will take care of internal moisture. Air tightness separates these two systems. If you have cold and hot air exchanging in plug outlets, ceiling fixtures, or gaps between sheathing with poor air tightness, you create a cold surface that will cause the humidity in the hot air to condense upon it and grow mold.
Hey Matt, love you vids. We see a lot of these new products you use on your houses but what does the estimate for the whole house look like to the homeowner. Would love to see you walk through the different categories you use on an estimate/budget then dive into the specifics of those categories. Thanks, keep up the good work.
Would have to go all the way into the concrete interior of the ICF. The stone veneer is extremely heavy and can exert a lot of force when it begins to lean out. That would cause any screw anchored into plastic to simply rip out. It can be very difficult to drill into concrete versus mortar or concrete block (which is softer), so you may want to take an ICF and fill it with some concrete to test out drilling into it before you plan to do your entire house that way.
how do you learn about all this stuff. Iv been checking out your videos on and off for different things for a while now. Is there a certain degree you get or something? Any help would be awesome.
well if you have ICF house, then you have continuous insulation on both sides, and you are covered. under ground basement? anything that you have a cladding on, and it is stone you need away for it to breath. How comfortable is in there without any heat/ac on?
Matt - what's the point of vapor open insulation when the Delta product is a vapor barrier? Why did you drill weeps instead of using a weep product? What tips do you have for managing termites with weeps?
The Delta Vent SA is 50 perms. So the entire assembly is vapor open. In the future I would use a weep product. Termites can get in weeps but you’ll see the tunnel
It depends on what you determine "open" means. The Delta Vent is 30 perm. But the Delta dry - not mentioned by Tyler- is only a .14 perm and listed at a low semi-permeable material. My BIG worry is the longevity of the dimpled plastic this is made of. I have broken up some basement slabs and the 6 mil visqueen used underneath looked like straw on a 15-year-old slab. It will be interesting to see how this all shakes out in 15 to 20 years from now. I remember in the late 80's when the "best practice" was to put visqueen behind the drywall. I don't see a better alternative right now but I still think it is the weak link in the system. The only good thing about it is, it might be job security for someone 20 years from now; fixing all the stuff we use today. Much like the siding guys who are still making money replacing all the old LP stuff.
Ok, so I'm very confused. In a lot of your older videos, you say you like to use commercial Tyvek because of its low perm rate, but the entire point of Delta Vent is to allow vapor to pass through. Do you mind clearing this up? Thanks!
Matt, What if you added a hydrophobic technology to the stone or brick. Would that change the need for an air gap behind the stone or brick wall. I’m curious what your thoughts are on this. Thanks
Love the videos. I have an old (1870s) 2 wythe brick home that I want to have another wythe to rebrick the entire house. Should I skip the tyvek drainwrap and just place the roxul directly on old exterior brick, which will now be inside the whole wall assembly?Or add 1 x 3 furring strips (wood) to have the roxul not directly touching the brick interior. I will have the new brick with the required min 1 inch air gap.
Hi, thanks a lot for so many very useful and instructive videos. I am not a builder but I enjoy all your videos. With regard to bricks being slightly permeable and letting moisture behind, what if the bricks are painted? My house is older and even though it was well built, the 1971 standards were not what they are now and I am not sure how the vapor barrier was done, or how it has survived. However, the brick are painted (white) and I assume that the paint will reduce the risk of moisture permeating and accumulating being the brick. The main concern is that for many years I had sprinklers spraying the outside wall in a couple of areas. I am due to repaint the walls, so if you have recommendations in that regard, that would be appreciated. (I am located in Florida, so I know humidity...)
Does the masonry lay on the foundation? It would be cool to see the very begining process Matt. Specifically how much space do you allot for the frame and masonry.
Are you confusing Stone Veneer for Stone wall, when you say, "when your building with rock & stone or even stocco, there's not an air gap back there," (1:10-1:15)
I don't think he's confusing the two, but he is making that comparison. He's saying you can't put stone on the exterior wall of a house the same way that you build a traditional stone wall because stone walls butt the stone right up against concrete block (or more stone). Basically, you have to treat exterior wall stone as a veneer and have that air gap back there. And with stucco, that is usually put right on top of the concrete block, so he is correct there, saying there's no air gap. One of the big reasons why people have moved away from using it as much. Holds a ton of water.
Hey crew, I bought an old farmhouse built in 1950, it has a fake stone finish cemented over cinderblock, no gap no insulation, costs me $600 a month to heat to 50 degrees! How can I fix this? thanks, farmer Homer
BenjaminFranklin99 I was thinking something like that as I also need to remove some walls and add a new window, that comfort board looks good. Also the roof attic space was poorly done snow melts first on the block, a double vented roof then insulate knee walls and ceilings. Thanks
Matt, Have you ever found bugs to be an issue in the space between between the wrap and rock? It seems like the weep holes top and bottom might just invited them to take up residence.
It is called Silvermist. Sourced from TBK Materials in 4-6-8 with sawn tops and bottoms. It is an Oklahoma sandstone. Some quarries call it Black Horse.
I Always Wondered What the Difference is Between Stone & Rock. I Asked Around. the Best Answer I Got It's a Rock Until you Build Something with it then it's Stone
When you said 'meant to last a couple generations' we thought 75 years that's it? Cotswold homes last centuries. Then you said 'next 3 hundred years' so is it 300 years or 75 years? Also, can you build your stone and still incorporate passive house (not foam insulation)? These aren't stone veneers right? Thank you!
You should watch the video again. Because you heard him wrong First he said three generations Then said a couple generations Then he said for the next couple hundred years.
The ICF manufactures make masonry anchors that are placed before the concrete is pored. So I would think that they would be easier and cheaper to install, and a lot stronger. The cost of ICF construction is usually more expensive compared to a standard construction, but only a little more, and in some cases cheaper when labor is factored in. But what Matt is building is high-end with a lot of extra steps to solve problems that don't exists with ICF. So I'm guessing that the total cost of ICF would be less in this case, but I'm again only guessing.
I also wondered that. I am currently building and ICF house. Comparing to wood isn't even fair. With all of the extra steps that they are doing I think ICF would actually be cheaper.
What about sealing the brick/stone walls with a coat of water proof spray. I was told that 2 coats of bondcrete, brushed/sprayed, would do that. So far haven't found any videos showing that being done.
Why is it as soon as I start into this video I feel like I'm being sold a whole slew of proprietary products and essentially, that is what this is really about? Remember when you could build a house with just a bunch of lumber? Also, maybe, maybe I can't see it in the video, but it looks like none of the windows have the expansion/sealant joint between them and the stone, required by every window manufacturer out there.
It's because waterproofing is the #1 enemy of house building. You want the best waterproofing you can get when putting brick or stone veneer up because they absorb so much water, compared to siding, which obviously repels water. The Dorken products are for people who want to step up their game with waterproofing, just like computer enthusiasts want the next best graphics card or car enthusiasts want the newest Mustang model. Older houses just used a gap using furring strips for a rainscreen, but wood will rot out. The dimple mat shown here will last a long time. The Dorken weather resistant barrier is definitely hefty duty, but again - it is way more durable than the paper thin products most people use. It will keep the moisture out very well. You might think it's overkill, but like I said: water is the #1 enemy. There is a reason this tech is being developed. Another thing to consider is that older houses used plywood more. Now we use OSB, which absorbs way more water. This has also pushed the waterproofing tech forward more. As far as Rockwool is concerned, that insulation is just plain better than batting because again, it has to do with water. Mineral wool doesn't soak it up. Traditional batting does. That's why they are able to put this wool on the outside. This also goes in line with where the industry is going with regard to putting insulation on the outside as opposed to the inside, too. It's better R value. You wear a coat on the outside, not in your ribs. I could go on, but this is the gist of it.
Good lord this is disturbing. We do not need walls of plastic and foam and polymers. Rock, wood and earth are seriously enough no matter where you are. Greedy companies even getting their hands in home building now?!
@@WhyBecause. There are structures of stone and only stone that are standing after thousands, even tens of thousands of years. There are buildings of wood, earth, and stone standing after just as long. I recommend researching these building methods on your own.
worrying about how to build to last a couple of generations? In Europe we expect our houses to last a couple of centuries minimum. A stone built house should be good for 500 years. Sticking the stuff on the front of some poxy US style house is not how you build with stone. It's almost sacrilege using stone in this way. Stick to your cheap vinyl siding if your building a fifty year house.
This is adding thousands to a projected and complexity for nothing. There is no reason to insulate the outside of the house especially in warm climate areas. The wood wood sheeting is going to stop ALL the air moving around that you’re talking about. And you started out by say with brick you have and 1 inch air space between the brick and the face of the wall and with stone you don’t. Then you show a 1” air space between the stone and the 4 layers of stuff you attached to the house.
It is. But it is 2.8 miles from the center of downtown Austin. So it is an old close-in neighborhood with smallish city lots. Many tear-downs in the area with new homes of varying styles going up to replace the old homes from the 30's and 40's.
I love stone! Thanks for the tips on how to install it. Videos like this can be used by folks when they talk to their builder or architect to have informed discussions and ask the right questions. Thanks.
Matt, as a builder and fan of yours I've been following your for a while and have always had the same feelings about some of your videos. You use some really great products/materials along with techniques but often they are very expensive and not practical within a budget for most projects. I would love to see videos where these same techniques can be used and goals met, but more economically (if at all possible). Always appreciate your knowledge you share with everyone. Thanks!
BenjaminFranklin99 I was referring more to the techniques and materials used for weather barriers and drainage plains.
Love what you're doing with this channel. You're making home building "cool", main stream and easy to understand. Thanks so much. I'm an aspiring home builder and these videos help a ton
Matt I have often wondered why no architect has ever specd some sort of border trim around the windows between them and the stone that could be unscrewed so when you wanted to replace the window in 20 years you could just remove your trim piece between the brick or stone and the window and remove the old window and install a new one and then reinstall the trim piece whether it be made out of some sort of Brazilian hardwood, metal, or pvc, or vinyl or any other option that will not rot.
The brick or stone is always bricked all the way to touch the window and you can never get to the flanges again and can never install another new construction window. This leaves you with the only option of replacement windows with no flange. All I am saying is in terms of future maintenance of the building it does not make since to put a product that lasts centuries over a product that lasts decades and limit your options for future replacement. I would really like to see a house that is very simple to change or upgrade all windows and doors because they don't last forever.
A piece of 2x4 ipe wrapped around the window and the stone placed up to that instead of the window would be a game changer in terms of future maintenance.
I like your work and admire your excellent attention to detail. Thanks for the video.
I've wondered about using plastic / wood decking for window / door bucks on masonry homes, such as ICF and SCIP.
Matt, this video is excellent! Have you ever considered a video series or book that details Home construction from start to finish? There is a huge need for builders (who may not be high performance builders like yourself) who would really benefit from your insight. There is an abundance of information available online but it doesn’t cover the build from a comprehensive point of view. Long time subscriber. Keep up the great work. Thanks
Lol. If you don’t know what your looking at. Sure
Another great post Matt. It looks fantastic. A couple of follow up questions:
1) any concerns with water working its way through around the masonry anchor bolts?
2) will you create an an additional post showing how you finished the stone sills? I’m curious to learn how you’ll address rain hitting and potentially resting around this area.
Thank you.
Todd Nagle Chances are their will be leaks unless they flash the sills and give a minimum pitch of 14 degrees. Sadly Ive seen videos were his crew left flat sills.
wonderful walls but you have now shown me any roller shutters...certainly somewhere you have addressed this..I used German Rouladen roller shutters to increase R values with foam filled vanes and dead air space plus the security, privacy and noise benefits.
Awesome exterior wall system Matt! Could you share your weep details bottom wall, top of wall, sills, widow/door heads please ?
Man that has to be super expensive.
How do you prevent insects getting into the air gap, likely thru the weep holes
Put screen in the weep holes. To stop bugs
Copper mesh...bugs hate copper.
Is that still considered stone veneer?
So, the stone facade will last centuries. The structure of the house appears to be abundantly protected. My question is, How long are those windows going to last? The window crew that has to replace them is going to hate seeing the stone cover up the window flanges. In general, that practice should be considered low end. What is your replacement option going to look like? What are your thoughts?
I’ve replaced lots of flanged windows over the years. It’s really not too hard.
Matt Risinger well congratulations, it would be okay for you to admit when something is done in a subferior manner.
Great vid, greatly illustrated, great spokesman, Uh Huh, Uh Huh, listen up homeowners. Just simply GREAT STUFF!!
Subferior isn't a word. Even if you used the correct word, inferior, you would still be wrong.
Thank you for the word correction Professor. By all means, feel free to elaborate on how I am wrong. Please do refer to your extensive background in this field, too. Thanks in advance.
Matt, I am a big fan and I’ve watched a ton of your vids. It seems there is soooo much care or details that need to be executed on your exterior walls because of the wood construction. Why not just use concrete and be done? A well compacted base and you’ve got a solid frame that will outlive anyone without the use of sophisticated sheathing, drainage ect ect. I realize I’m bias from growing up in south Florida but man it’s bugging me on this question. Thanks!
Hi Matt,
Awesome assembly method. I am currently designing a 3-storey residence in Ucluelet on the beautiful West Coast of Vancouver Island (Canada) and the client has envisioned their residence to be entirely clad in stone. I think given the climatic region, your assembly would work perfectly... If you might have design detail drawings available to share, that would be greatly appreciated indeed...
Keep up the great work. Love your channel mate!
All the very best to you!
Austin
Would like to hear more about the concealed lintel and how that is done.
This video is awesome! Really enjoyed you walking us through the details of installation and all the advice you gave. Thanks for all the information!
Hi Matt Can I install brick 🧱 or stone on steel sidings of the house ??
Thanks Matt. Is it possible to install comfort board directly over stucco? If so, how would you suggest installing cultured stone over top of the comfort board. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. How do you deal with bees creating hives on the cavity? A small hole anywhere in the structure is an access point for them. Another question, at 6:00 you can see the density of screws needed to hold the insulation (on the green surface), so how much is the thermal bridging effect they produce? Has anybody calculated it? Great video
bug screen. Building code specifies a maximum hole width, too. Should be in the wall construction section. No idea about the thermal bridging though.
Is there a CUT AWAY view of a typical complete wall assembly including dimensions available???
Can I install bricks siding over steel siding panels ??
Matt, if Rockwool is Vapor Open and Hydrophobic, why is the Delta Drain Dimple Mat necessary?
MATT, in zone 4 climate, I want a hot roof and I will use the comfort rockwool, brick cladding. My question is, do you vent the soffit for air movement behind the brick? I want to use a wood soffit and metal roof.
Does anyone know the air gap between the dimple mat and the stone? With this house it looks like it is more than an inch.
Finally I see someone using flashing for rock veneer/ lumpy stucco
so which wrap would be better delta or polywall?
stumbled across your video, I like the stone look thanx for the in-depth explanation. 👍
I need your help with a design. I'm designing a ICF house and want to know how to add brick/stone to an entire ICF house if I have a 10' basement. I don't like the design of the ICF brick ledge because it will not be strong enough for all the stone I will have above it. Can you please make a video on how to do this. I'm currently think about adding concrete brick/stone ledge 10' tall from the footing on the outside of the stand ICF blocks.... Your thoughts Thanks Eric
We are building a SIP house with rough not milled stone all irregular cut. If I cover the SIP with blue paint on vapor barrior do I need to add the insulation and dimple before erecting the stone? The fascia will all be under overhangs and balconies, it will have weep holes and anchors to the sip panel.
I would love to se a stone veneer comparison vs other siding
What kinds of stones would these be and where would I get them for a whole house project? My dream is to make a Georgian colonial home with stone and this is the perfect.
The stone is called Silvermist. It is an Oklahoma sandstone. TBK Materials in Plano carries it, as do others in Texas and Oklahoma.
What was the name of the stone you used? It’s beautiful!
great topic and well explained. would like it you could some day address doing the same building envelope in the northeast US. I'm concerned about the vapor barrier being located incorrectly but would like you hear your thoughts on that. thanks for your great work in the field.
Is there any special structural considerations when adhering a masonry veneer over the lath which is over mineral wool instead of directly fastened to the sheathing?
You're a good sales guy, and very used to utilizing big phrases like "few generations"
Matt: Love the videos. For the layman (non-builder), have you previously covered the topic of building houses that "breathe" vs. houses that are air tight. I seem to get mixed signals on the topic. About to start a renovation and want to make sure that the contractor and I are on the same page for making changes to a home built in 1958. Thanks.
It is confusing. You hear "make it air tight" but also "if it can't dry, it dies". And to make it more confusing, there is a difference between air barriers, vapor barriers, and waterproofing. The concept of a house breathing comes from when houses didn't use insulation and weren't air conditioned. Once we made it cold on the inside, it created surfaces for condensation to occur however, and suddenly you have mold growing there. This happens, of course, on the exterior walls where the cold meets the hot outside. We also used to ventilate houses by opening windows. That was the old way of air conditioning. With OSB absorbing more moisture than traditional plywood, with air conditioning, and creating an unobservable cavity within our walls where insulation is and covering it up with drywall, we have created an environment where moisture can accumulate and grow mold. So, with all of that, our idea of breathing houses needed to be changed. Air tightness is the solution to control where cold and hot air goes. Really it's about moisture, but as I said: condensation MAKES moisture accumulate in places all at once. So if we can prevent condensing surfaces (by controlling where hot and cold air goes: air tightness), we can control moisture. Hence, all the hoopla about air tightness.
A good way to look at it is: the more inside you go with your wall layer, the more air tight you want it to be, but on the outside, you want it to breathe. Generally, anything outside the weather resistant barrier (WRB) will be subject to water from humidity, rain, and capillary action, so it needs to breathe in order to dry out. But on the inside, as long as you are running your air conditioner and maybe a dehumidifier, that alone will take care of internal moisture. Air tightness separates these two systems. If you have cold and hot air exchanging in plug outlets, ceiling fixtures, or gaps between sheathing with poor air tightness, you create a cold surface that will cause the humidity in the hot air to condense upon it and grow mold.
Hey Matt, love you vids. We see a lot of these new products you use on your houses but what does the estimate for the whole house look like to the homeowner. Would love to see you walk through the different categories you use on an estimate/budget then dive into the specifics of those categories. Thanks, keep up the good work.
What type of stone facade is this?
do i need that insulation if i have cement block build garage ? Can i use just stone and mortar?
thanks in advance
Oh man, it's just "a facade"
Thanks Matt ...wonderful video.
Hey Matt
What brand of stone is that... Absolutely biutiful. Thanks
I would like to know what sort of stone it is as well. Does it come pre-cut like that, or do they cut those straight edges on site?
Hey Matt, how would this work on ICF? Just into the plastic, or the concrete or what?
Would have to go all the way into the concrete interior of the ICF. The stone veneer is extremely heavy and can exert a lot of force when it begins to lean out. That would cause any screw anchored into plastic to simply rip out. It can be very difficult to drill into concrete versus mortar or concrete block (which is softer), so you may want to take an ICF and fill it with some concrete to test out drilling into it before you plan to do your entire house that way.
how do you learn about all this stuff. Iv been checking out your videos on and off for different things for a while now. Is there a certain degree you get or something? Any help would be awesome.
what is this type of stone is this?
What differences are there to do this over my ICF walkout basement??
well if you have ICF house, then you have continuous insulation on both sides, and you are covered. under ground basement? anything that you have a cladding on, and it is stone you need away for it to breath. How comfortable is in there without any heat/ac on?
Matt - what's the point of vapor open insulation when the Delta product is a vapor barrier? Why did you drill weeps instead of using a weep product? What tips do you have for managing termites with weeps?
The Delta Vent SA is 50 perms. So the entire assembly is vapor open. In the future I would use a weep product. Termites can get in weeps but you’ll see the tunnel
the Delta Dimple mat is NOT vapor open!
It depends on what you determine "open" means. The Delta Vent is 30 perm. But the Delta dry - not mentioned by Tyler- is only a .14 perm and listed at a low semi-permeable material.
My BIG worry is the longevity of the dimpled plastic this is made of. I have broken up some basement slabs and the 6 mil visqueen used underneath looked like straw on a 15-year-old slab. It will be interesting to see how this all shakes out in 15 to 20 years from now. I remember in the late 80's when the "best practice" was to put visqueen behind the drywall. I don't see a better alternative right now but I still think it is the weak link in the system. The only good thing about it is, it might be job security for someone 20 years from now; fixing all the stuff we use today. Much like the siding guys who are still making money replacing all the old LP stuff.
Could you use ZIP-R product when building a brick home? Would it be ok to have the ZIP-R exposed to the 1" air gap behind the brick?
Ok, so I'm very confused. In a lot of your older videos, you say you like to use commercial Tyvek because of its low perm rate, but the entire point of Delta Vent is to allow vapor to pass through. Do you mind clearing this up? Thanks!
Rock, one reason I love living in Nevada.
Matt,
What if you added a hydrophobic technology to the stone or brick. Would that change the need for an air gap behind the stone or brick wall. I’m curious what your thoughts are on this. Thanks
Can i do tyvek drain wrap, roxul r5 as continuous insulation, and brick.? And would we use these same ties?
Yes that would work. Use a mortar net at the bottom of the brick. Yes same tie. Heckman PosITie
Love the videos. I have an old (1870s) 2 wythe brick home that I want to have another wythe to rebrick the entire house. Should I skip the tyvek drainwrap and just place the roxul directly on old exterior brick, which will now be inside the whole wall assembly?Or add 1 x 3 furring strips (wood) to have the roxul not directly touching the brick interior. I will have the new brick with the required min 1 inch air gap.
Would or could you use the same approach with brick?
0:29 big foot?
Hi, thanks a lot for so many very useful and instructive videos. I am not a builder but I enjoy all your videos. With regard to bricks being slightly permeable and letting moisture behind, what if the bricks are painted? My house is older and even though it was well built, the 1971 standards were not what they are now and I am not sure how the vapor barrier was done, or how it has survived. However, the brick are painted (white) and I assume that the paint will reduce the risk of moisture permeating and accumulating being the brick. The main concern is that for many years I had sprinklers spraying the outside wall in a couple of areas. I am due to repaint the walls, so if you have recommendations in that regard, that would be appreciated. (I am located in Florida, so I know humidity...)
Matt,
Can you do a video on smooth stucco. Specifically how to prevent/ reduce the cracking that seems to always happen?
Does the masonry lay on the foundation? It would be cool to see the very begining process Matt. Specifically how much space do you allot for the frame and masonry.
It typically does, yes. Also brick does.
Are you confusing Stone Veneer for Stone wall, when you say, "when your building with rock & stone or even stocco, there's not an air gap back there," (1:10-1:15)
I don't think he's confusing the two, but he is making that comparison. He's saying you can't put stone on the exterior wall of a house the same way that you build a traditional stone wall because stone walls butt the stone right up against concrete block (or more stone). Basically, you have to treat exterior wall stone as a veneer and have that air gap back there. And with stucco, that is usually put right on top of the concrete block, so he is correct there, saying there's no air gap. One of the big reasons why people have moved away from using it as much. Holds a ton of water.
Is there more dimplemat behind the roxul? Would that be necessary or does it not need one since it’s more permeable ?
Just in front of the Insulation
Hey crew, I bought an old farmhouse built in 1950, it has a fake stone finish cemented over cinderblock, no gap no insulation, costs me $600 a month to heat to 50 degrees! How can I fix this? thanks, farmer Homer
BenjaminFranklin99 I was thinking something like that as I also need to remove some walls and add a new window, that comfort board looks good. Also the roof attic space was poorly done snow melts first on the block, a double vented roof then insulate knee walls and ceilings.
Thanks
BenjaminFranklin99 the other option is to demolish and build new using old foundation.
Do you have to buy dorkin Products directly from them or do they sell them at lumberyard but I live in Wisconsin and I can’t find them anywhere
Is there any advantage of going with Delta Vent SA vs Grace Vycor enV-S? Price of the Grace seems a lot more reasonable.
The Delta Vent SA is a more durable “commercial grade” product. The Grace isn’t bad just not as robust
I love these videos. that stone is so nice.
So that’s a wood and cardboard house with a stone cover.
went to a midivil castle. been around since the 1500s...doesn't have any of that
Matt, Have you ever found bugs to be an issue in the space between between the wrap and rock? It seems like the weep holes top and bottom might just invited them to take up residence.
Bug screens are standard and in building code.
Have you ever done a stone over existing brick?
Matt, is it possible to hide lintels using standard bricks, instead of larger stones like you did here?
Justin Leitch It is
How about a Passive/energy efficient/solar/wind/earthship/Hempcrete/lime plaster home
This is in a hot humid climate between Leander and Jonestown Texas
A question I’m pretty sure manny will have.
¿How much $ sq ft a system like this will cost to the customer?
BenjaminFranklin99
I wasn’t asking for me!
I was asking to sell.
That's what I'm interest in Stone or Brick House..
What is the name of that particular stone and who makes it? It looks great! Thank you. = )
It is called Silvermist. Sourced from TBK Materials in 4-6-8 with sawn tops and bottoms. It is an Oklahoma sandstone. Some quarries call it Black Horse.
Great video!
Wish Matt built homes in Las Vegas
When I hit the lottery I’ll hire this guy to build my next home
Here’s to good luck!
I Always Wondered What the Difference is Between Stone & Rock. I Asked Around. the Best Answer I Got It's a Rock Until you Build Something with it then it's Stone
I LOVE STONE HOUSES
Thanks Matt
When you said 'meant to last a couple generations' we thought 75 years that's it? Cotswold homes last centuries. Then you said 'next 3 hundred years' so is it 300 years or 75 years? Also, can you build your stone and still incorporate passive house (not foam insulation)?
These aren't stone veneers right? Thank you!
You should watch the video again. Because you heard him wrong
First he said three generations
Then said a couple generations
Then he said for the next couple hundred years.
I wish I could find the technically proper way to add insulation to the walls of my brick home in Alabama.
Building with ICF would eliminate a lot of steps and the house would be stronger and quieter. I don't know why Matt doesn't use it. Expense?
The ICF manufactures make masonry anchors that are placed before the concrete is pored. So I would think that they would be easier and cheaper to install, and a lot stronger. The cost of ICF construction is usually more expensive compared to a standard construction, but only a little more, and in some cases cheaper when labor is factored in. But what Matt is building is high-end with a lot of extra steps to solve problems that don't exists with ICF. So I'm guessing that the total cost of ICF would be less in this case, but I'm again only guessing.
The r-Value is mush lower in an ICF home compared to the insulation used here.
...at least comparing to wall thickness.
i wish he would talk about ICF, it seems to be a superior "500 year" wall.
I also wondered that. I am currently building and ICF house. Comparing to wood isn't even fair. With all of the extra steps that they are doing I think ICF would actually be cheaper.
it seems to have a lot of unnecessary things if you compare to an Irish home and they keep them standing way longer.
That's how to build, out with the old.
What about sealing the brick/stone walls with a coat of water proof spray. I was told that 2 coats of bondcrete, brushed/sprayed, would do that. So far haven't found any videos showing that being done.
Keeps the water out, mostly. Sure. But you just trapped all the water inside too. Say hello to interior rot in a few decades.
1:04 Air gap with brick but not with stone? You prove yourself wrong at 3:22.
Why is it as soon as I start into this video I feel like I'm being sold a whole slew of proprietary products and essentially, that is what this is really about? Remember when you could build a house with just a bunch of lumber?
Also, maybe, maybe I can't see it in the video, but it looks like none of the windows have the expansion/sealant joint between them and the stone, required by every window manufacturer out there.
It's because waterproofing is the #1 enemy of house building. You want the best waterproofing you can get when putting brick or stone veneer up because they absorb so much water, compared to siding, which obviously repels water. The Dorken products are for people who want to step up their game with waterproofing, just like computer enthusiasts want the next best graphics card or car enthusiasts want the newest Mustang model. Older houses just used a gap using furring strips for a rainscreen, but wood will rot out. The dimple mat shown here will last a long time. The Dorken weather resistant barrier is definitely hefty duty, but again - it is way more durable than the paper thin products most people use. It will keep the moisture out very well. You might think it's overkill, but like I said: water is the #1 enemy. There is a reason this tech is being developed. Another thing to consider is that older houses used plywood more. Now we use OSB, which absorbs way more water. This has also pushed the waterproofing tech forward more. As far as Rockwool is concerned, that insulation is just plain better than batting because again, it has to do with water. Mineral wool doesn't soak it up. Traditional batting does. That's why they are able to put this wool on the outside. This also goes in line with where the industry is going with regard to putting insulation on the outside as opposed to the inside, too. It's better R value. You wear a coat on the outside, not in your ribs. I could go on, but this is the gist of it.
The stone looks Great, but those are some ugly windows! I wanted to see the mason finish the sill tho. Lol
Good lord this is disturbing. We do not need walls of plastic and foam and polymers. Rock, wood and earth are seriously enough no matter where you are. Greedy companies even getting their hands in home building now?!
You got any sources for how to combine them well to have longlasting effect?
@@WhyBecause. There are structures of stone and only stone that are standing after thousands, even tens of thousands of years. There are buildings of wood, earth, and stone standing after just as long. I recommend researching these building methods on your own.
You are totally correct
I bet that's expensive as hell!!
Thumbs up for more masonry content.
Bitchen Mullet 1:45
It’s a pair of sorrel boots 🤣🤣🤣
WOW ...
Answear to all of my questions
Oh ok Don't I feel dumb he has it already
worrying about how to build to last a couple of generations? In Europe we expect our houses to last a couple of centuries minimum. A stone built house should be good for 500 years. Sticking the stuff on the front of some poxy US style house is not how you build with stone. It's almost sacrilege using stone in this way. Stick to your cheap vinyl siding if your building a fifty year house.
How do you deal with moisture and thermal bridging?
This is adding thousands to a projected and complexity for nothing. There is no reason to insulate the outside of the house especially in warm climate areas. The wood wood sheeting is going to stop ALL the air moving around that you’re talking about.
And you started out by say with brick you have and 1 inch air space between the brick and the face of the wall and with stone you don’t.
Then you show a 1” air space between the stone and the 4 layers of stuff you attached to the house.
Its stone, not rock. A stone being a useful rock.
They make that plastic shit to leave a half inch gap now
Beautiful work. I am a little sad to see it looks like it is in a tight residential neighborhood buried among cheaper homes.
It is. But it is 2.8 miles from the center of downtown Austin. So it is an old close-in neighborhood with smallish city lots. Many tear-downs in the area with new homes of varying styles going up to replace the old homes from the 30's and 40's.