Great video, thank you for posting. I have tile in 90 percent of our downstairs. Instead of drilling through the tile and into the foundation, can a safe be anchored via studs in the wall? Remember, there's no such thing as stupid questions, there's just stupid people asking them. The garage is an option but I'm concerned about heat/cold/HUMIDITY. Yes, I covered chapters 1 and 4. :)
@@juddemerson6467 Nice! Hahaha, love all of this. Holes are in the bottom of the safe because heat rises, fire isn’t burning at the bottom as much as it’s working its way up to consume more oxygen and grow. That’s why there aren’t holes in the back, so drilling holes in the back of the safe potentially introduces a new way for heat to enter. The Palusol material around the door jam swells 7x its natural size to help with that around the door. Pressure builds as the metal heats up and the pressure escapes through the keypad hole and electrical outlet (if it has one). Garage - there are tools like the www.a-1locksmith.com/shop-online/products/safe-accessories/other/accessory-security-safelert/ to help measure temp & humidity. Then you can use a dehumidifier or more than one to combat humidity, but that totally depends on what kinds of humidity you’ve been experiencing in your garage. If you’re not moving anytime soon…you can drill through that tile and fill with putty/mortar later to color match. You want a safe for security, don’t be distracted with small holes in the tile. We appreciate you watching and asking questions!
@@A1LocksmithofTexas My humidity is same as yours. I'm in Mansfield. Well, our remodel is going on as we speak. It may be cheaper to put it in the garage and deal with monitoring vs a divorce lawyer.
@@juddemerson6467 NOW you’re thinking! I’ve got an older home, but it’s 109 in my garage (and I have a gym in there 🥴). Inside the safe says 96 degrees and 41.1% humidity per the SafElert app right now.
@@juddemerson6467 Are you a P1??! Carrollton, come by! Called ahead & confirm, we’re headed to G.O.A.’s first annual convention this week to film content, but back at it Monday.
Awesome video. For us apartment renters who can't drill into the floor (unless we to want to get out security deposit back lol) what alternatives, if any, exist to bolting it into the floor that would offer some added hardening?
@@prisonerr24601 Excellent point! This is absolutely challenging. I think we all understand we can’t bolt down, but we can take steps. Deepening on the size of the safe obviously, nestled in a closet will slow someone down from just going at it. Next I would recommend a SafElert. It’s basically an alarm system for the safe itself and a really affordable one. It senses motion if someone were violently shaking/moving the safe or trying to beat it with a hammer. It also senses when the door is opened, it sends notifications to your phone about these things. Other great features include it monitors interior temp and humidity levels. Liberty Safe SafElert | Unboxing and Install TUTORIAL!! ruclips.net/video/nMQV_Zv6CFM/видео.html
I like a nice 1/2" plate steel box with relocked and fixed bolts on hinge side....and I/m finding the 1/2" steel doors with the same body, most important though, get a safe that its bolts protrude from a 1/2" steel body that way with these specs it will defeat any prying.
I’ve been interested in a safe for a number of years. What has been preventing me from purchasing one, are the videos that show people opening them up like a can of tune with an angle grinder in a few minutes. What is the best way to set a safe up to proven access like this? Other than a house alarm?
@@anthonycaldi7056 Howdy! There’s definitely videos of people in particular settings, using power tools on select safes. Luckily we don’t see it a lot in the real world scenarios, but yes, it does happen. Having a safe to protect your belongings from fire and burglar attacks is better than no safe. And consider what you’re protecting from a value stand point and budget off of that. Most nobody’s insurance policy specifically dictates their weapons, ammo, paperwork, etc. The thicker the steel the better, obviously, but consider starting with 11 gauge steel. Primary bedrooms/closets are hit first/most from most all police department statistics. Find another space. Think outside the box a little. Put the safe in a corner, so the back and 1 side of the safe are touching walls. Bolt it down. Brute force attacks from crow bars, hammers & even drills are the most common trends from burglar attempts. Beefing up your security and consciously looking for leaks helps prevent a lot. Use 3-1/2” long screws in your hinges and strike plates for your doors. Lock down windows that never get opened. Get a camera doorbell. You already said alarm. There’s a lot you can do to make your home more difficult to break into and therefore chase off would be burglars.
@@A1LocksmithofTexas I appreciate your response. This is great information and I agree additional safety measures along with a safe adds addition layers of protection. Thanks again for your response!
Regarding weight, in my research I found that up to 1100-1200 lbs can go into the first floor of a home with pier and beam wooden floors provided the home is of modern construction. It’s like having five or six big guys in a room close to each other. I also had to put my safe in the master bedroom closet. I didn’t want to but my installer was concerned about the stairs to the basement, and with our cold winters I didn’t want it in the garage. I put in a TL-15 safe which weighs around 1200 lbs. The floor never made a peep! My installer also didn’t want to bolt it down. He was worried about damage (piping, conduit, etc, and because of the weight he said I’d be fine. The insurance company doesn’t require bolt down if the safe weighs over 750 lbs. Your mileage may vary! This is a jewelry type safe and is short, which makes it harder to move. He said it was the heaviest safe he has ever put in a residence. 😊. Most homeowners do RSC rated safes. I did lots of research before buying. I’ll eventually do a gun safe. I enjoy your videos. Very informative. Knowledge is power!
@@alanhoutz5513 That’s awesome, man! I’m glad the found the right safe for your needs. I am absolutely comfortable with those weights on pier & beam. We really appreciate you watching and leaving comments, it’s great to hear from folks!
folks worrying about battery on their electronic licks, most locks have a battery access door at the bottom of the lock that you just slide it out and that batter will drop...plus it can act as a deterrent too, and lets say if you leave home for a week pop that 9 volt batter out..I mean how many thieves are carrying 9 volt batteries on them ...
@@jimmyrogers2448 What sort of data would you like to know? We try to say it in many of our gun safe review videos, but a flat bolt offers 12x the contact radius of a 1” round bolt which is pretty interesting.
@@usaalways1869 In my career, over 20 years, I’ve only ever seen manufactures using spray foam window cleaner and a microfiber towel. Based on that, it’s all we have ever used and I’ve never seen/heard of issues. After wiping the safe, I’ll use the now dampened microfiber towel to wipe off the lock, but don’t spray it directly. The bolts are iffy - some manufacturers grease their bolts to keep them sliding smoothly. However, if there’s no visible grease, I’ll wipe down gently with the same dampened microfiber towel after wiping the body and the lock.
@@usaalways1869 Howdy 🤠! There’s a lot of back and forth on this topic. If you haven’t noticed much humidity in your home, say less than 40% at all times of the year, then you’re probably good. I’ve heard some chatter about dehumidifiers being harsh on wood stocks, but I’m guessing that’s in very old fragile stocks. Personally, we always recommend. Oils and moisture from our hands on weapons, papers, ammo or other belongings could build up over time, so why not use dehumidifier? Seems like cheap insurance.
Get an Eva-dry. Cheap insurance. I used small rechargeable desiccant packages and noticed I had to recharge them monthly. The Eva-Dry needs recharged less often depending on where you are.
Great question! Most popular/name brand safe companies offer a Lifetime Warrant against Theft & Fire. What this means is when the safe is badly damaged by fire or an attempted break in they will pay a locksmith to come open the safe and they will replace the safe for life. We have personally been hired several several times to handle these claims, so it's not just words on paper, manufactures really do warranty these products.
@@txivplig1191 The new Browning BX series competes with the top $1,000 safes on the market. Browning's NEW 2024 Budget Gun Safes under $2000 | Browning BX Series Gun Safe Review ruclips.net/video/TweTTtlgWaY/видео.html
Remember there are gun safes that keep your kids out, and there are serious, quality safes. We all have a budget but if it were me I’d save up for a good one.
Great video, thank you for posting. I have tile in 90 percent of our downstairs. Instead of drilling through the tile and into the foundation, can a safe be anchored via studs in the wall? Remember, there's no such thing as stupid questions, there's just stupid people asking them. The garage is an option but I'm concerned about heat/cold/HUMIDITY. Yes, I covered chapters 1 and 4. :)
@@juddemerson6467 Nice! Hahaha, love all of this. Holes are in the bottom of the safe because heat rises, fire isn’t burning at the bottom as much as it’s working its way up to consume more oxygen and grow. That’s why there aren’t holes in the back, so drilling holes in the back of the safe potentially introduces a new way for heat to enter. The Palusol material around the door jam swells 7x its natural size to help with that around the door. Pressure builds as the metal heats up and the pressure escapes through the keypad hole and electrical outlet (if it has one). Garage - there are tools like the www.a-1locksmith.com/shop-online/products/safe-accessories/other/accessory-security-safelert/ to help measure temp & humidity. Then you can use a dehumidifier or more than one to combat humidity, but that totally depends on what kinds of humidity you’ve been experiencing in your garage. If you’re not moving anytime soon…you can drill through that tile and fill with putty/mortar later to color match. You want a safe for security, don’t be distracted with small holes in the tile. We appreciate you watching and asking questions!
@@A1LocksmithofTexas My humidity is same as yours. I'm in Mansfield. Well, our remodel is going on as we speak. It may be cheaper to put it in the garage and deal with monitoring vs a divorce lawyer.
@@juddemerson6467 NOW you’re thinking! I’ve got an older home, but it’s 109 in my garage (and I have a gym in there 🥴). Inside the safe says 96 degrees and 41.1% humidity per the SafElert app right now.
@@A1LocksmithofTexas Brag montage on the gym. Which store are you out of? I would like to meet you so you can be a witness at my divorce. Lol
@@juddemerson6467 Are you a P1??! Carrollton, come by! Called ahead & confirm, we’re headed to G.O.A.’s first annual convention this week to film content, but back at it Monday.
Awesome video. For us apartment renters who can't drill into the floor (unless we to want to get out security deposit back lol) what alternatives, if any, exist to bolting it into the floor that would offer some added hardening?
@@prisonerr24601 Excellent point! This is absolutely challenging. I think we all understand we can’t bolt down, but we can take steps. Deepening on the size of the safe obviously, nestled in a closet will slow someone down from just going at it. Next I would recommend a SafElert. It’s basically an alarm system for the safe itself and a really affordable one. It senses motion if someone were violently shaking/moving the safe or trying to beat it with a hammer. It also senses when the door is opened, it sends notifications to your phone about these things. Other great features include it monitors interior temp and humidity levels. Liberty Safe SafElert | Unboxing and Install TUTORIAL!!
ruclips.net/video/nMQV_Zv6CFM/видео.html
I like a nice 1/2" plate steel box with relocked and fixed bolts on hinge side....and I/m finding the 1/2" steel doors with the same body, most important though, get a safe that its bolts protrude from a 1/2" steel body that way with these specs it will defeat any prying.
@@ShowemRight Thanks for watching! Yeah, that’s an intense amount of defense against criminals!
Golden information! 🤩
We aim to help!
I’ve been interested in a safe for a number of years. What has been preventing me from purchasing one, are the videos that show people opening them up like a can of tune with an angle grinder in a few minutes. What is the best way to set a safe up to proven access like this? Other than a house alarm?
@@anthonycaldi7056 Howdy! There’s definitely videos of people in particular settings, using power tools on select safes. Luckily we don’t see it a lot in the real world scenarios, but yes, it does happen. Having a safe to protect your belongings from fire and burglar attacks is better than no safe. And consider what you’re protecting from a value stand point and budget off of that. Most nobody’s insurance policy specifically dictates their weapons, ammo, paperwork, etc. The thicker the steel the better, obviously, but consider starting with 11 gauge steel. Primary bedrooms/closets are hit first/most from most all police department statistics. Find another space. Think outside the box a little. Put the safe in a corner, so the back and 1 side of the safe are touching walls. Bolt it down. Brute force attacks from crow bars, hammers & even drills are the most common trends from burglar attempts. Beefing up your security and consciously looking for leaks helps prevent a lot. Use 3-1/2” long screws in your hinges and strike plates for your doors. Lock down windows that never get opened. Get a camera doorbell. You already said alarm. There’s a lot you can do to make your home more difficult to break into and therefore chase off would be burglars.
@@A1LocksmithofTexas I appreciate your response. This is great information and I agree additional safety measures along with a safe adds addition layers of protection. Thanks again for your response!
@@anthonycaldi7056 Thanks for watching!
Regarding weight, in my research I found that up to 1100-1200 lbs can go into the first floor of a home with pier and beam wooden floors provided the home is of modern construction. It’s like having five or six big guys in a room close to each other. I also had to put my safe in the master bedroom closet. I didn’t want to but my installer was concerned about the stairs to the basement, and with our cold winters I didn’t want it in the garage. I put in a TL-15 safe which weighs around 1200 lbs. The floor never made a peep! My installer also didn’t want to bolt it down. He was worried about damage (piping, conduit, etc, and because of the weight he said I’d be fine. The insurance company doesn’t require bolt down if the safe weighs over 750 lbs. Your mileage may vary! This is a jewelry type safe and is short, which makes it harder to move. He said it was the heaviest safe he has ever put in a residence. 😊. Most homeowners do RSC rated safes. I did lots of research before buying. I’ll eventually do a gun safe. I enjoy your videos. Very informative. Knowledge is power!
@@alanhoutz5513 That’s awesome, man! I’m glad the found the right safe for your needs. I am absolutely comfortable with those weights on pier & beam. We really appreciate you watching and leaving comments, it’s great to hear from folks!
Awesome video
@@vinsonhelton7141 Thanks for watching!
great video
@@BillDunn-g2l Thank ya, sir!
folks worrying about battery on their electronic licks, most locks have a battery access door at the bottom of the lock that you just slide it out and that batter will drop...plus it can act as a deterrent too, and lets say if you leave home for a week pop that 9 volt batter out..I mean how many thieves are carrying 9 volt batteries on them ...
@@ShowemRight You’re absolutely right, every keypad we offer for example, has access to the battery from the keypad itself.
Round bolt vs flat bolt, I'm sure someone has the data on that. Hold my beer...I'll be right back.
@@jimmyrogers2448 What sort of data would you like to know? We try to say it in many of our gun safe review videos, but a flat bolt offers 12x the contact radius of a 1” round bolt which is pretty interesting.
How to clean 🧼 a safe properly? Just a cloth ? Should you put oil on a safe ? What about lock 🔒 and bolts ?
@@usaalways1869 In my career, over 20 years, I’ve only ever seen manufactures using spray foam window cleaner and a microfiber towel. Based on that, it’s all we have ever used and I’ve never seen/heard of issues. After wiping the safe, I’ll use the now dampened microfiber towel to wipe off the lock, but don’t spray it directly. The bolts are iffy - some manufacturers grease their bolts to keep them sliding smoothly. However, if there’s no visible grease, I’ll wipe down gently with the same dampened microfiber towel after wiping the body and the lock.
Always recommend a dehumidifier even if inside a house ? 🏠
@@usaalways1869 Howdy 🤠! There’s a lot of back and forth on this topic. If you haven’t noticed much humidity in your home, say less than 40% at all times of the year, then you’re probably good. I’ve heard some chatter about dehumidifiers being harsh on wood stocks, but I’m guessing that’s in very old fragile stocks. Personally, we always recommend. Oils and moisture from our hands on weapons, papers, ammo or other belongings could build up over time, so why not use dehumidifier? Seems like cheap insurance.
Get an Eva-dry. Cheap insurance. I used small rechargeable desiccant packages and noticed I had to recharge them monthly. The Eva-Dry needs recharged less often depending on where you are.
Voss? You need to get on that Icelandic water 😉😂
A other great choice haha
what happens if a thief fails to break into your safe and lock is messed up how do you open it thank you
Great question! Most popular/name brand safe companies offer a Lifetime Warrant against Theft & Fire. What this means is when the safe is badly damaged by fire or an attempted break in they will pay a locksmith to come open the safe and they will replace the safe for life. We have personally been hired several several times to handle these claims, so it's not just words on paper, manufactures really do warranty these products.
What's the best gun safe for 1000 dollars no liberty safe please?
@@txivplig1191 The new Browning BX series competes with the top $1,000 safes on the market. Browning's NEW 2024 Budget Gun Safes under $2000 | Browning BX Series Gun Safe Review
ruclips.net/video/TweTTtlgWaY/видео.html
Remember there are gun safes that keep your kids out, and there are serious, quality safes. We all have a budget but if it were me I’d save up for a good one.
@@alanhoutz5513 💪🏻🤠