1971 BMW R75/5 wheel bearing stack install

Installing the rear hub bearing stack in a 71 BMW R75/5 SWB.
The steps are below:
Removing the stack is the exact opposite of installing.
1. Insert the axle the opposite way into the hub (from the right side of the hub).
2. Lock the bearing stack together using a plumbing nipple that should be found at most any hardware store (3/4"x4"). It may need to be cut down, mine did.
3. Heat the aluminum wheel hub to around 200-250 degrees using a heat gun or propane torch. Must be very hot to expand the aluminum enough. If the stack doesn't come out (or go in) easily, it is not hot enough.
3. Using a rubber mallet, gently tap the bearing stack out (or into) the hub. Tap gently on the axle from the right side to push the stack out (or in) the left side of the hub.
I followed the instructions on Mr.Duane Ausherman's website below. He has a very good site with lots of excellent information about these old airhead BMW's:
w6rec.com/duane...
Good luck!

[@cosmicray3447]

Why did he heat only one (outer) side of the hub and not the inner side where the inner race is also an interference fit? However, he is correct that if you freeze the stack in addition to heating the hub, it should fit right in just using a few taps. Also, it's not necessary to have the top hat spacers on the stack before you install the stack in the hub.
Spacing and adjustment is very important with these hubs. It is controlled by the thickness of the wedding band spacer, NOT by torquing the big nut that holds the wheel on the bike. Read Duane Ausherman's website on the subject. Having a wheel lock up on the road is serious business.

[@bodhibikeshop8701]

Yes, good catch. I heat both sides of the hub using the torch. Looks like the video only shows me heating one side. The right side spacer has to be on the stack when inserted into the hub. The larger, left side top hat spacer does not have to be on the stack when inserted. Yes, Mr. Ausherman is an expert on these old airheads and I've learned much from his site. In fact I left a link to his website in the description of this video.

[@cosmicray3447]

Thanks. Otherwise a good video. I usually replace the inner seal when I
do this job so I can still put on the inner top hat spacer before I put on the seal. If I'm real lazy and I don't want to use heat and just squirt in more grease, I can just remove the inner seal and do that, but it ruins the seal. Also, there's a tool available that allows you to squirt in more grease from the top without removing anything. It forces out the old grease and squishes in new grease.
Last time I did this job I heated the hub to 300 degrees on the top of my stove and the frozen bearing stack dropped in with a plop. No hammer needed. Good chance to use a temperature gun :-)