How did the Hi-Loc fasteners work for the driving dog? Hopefully you have a few hundred miles on the R75/5 now and I was hoping to use this method on my R60/5 final drive. Thanks
Unfortunately, this R75/5 is not back on the road yet. I purchased this BMW mostly in a box and it has become a much longer term project than I expected. Which is usually the case when you buy another's unfinished project. I am close though, stay tuned! I wouldn't worry about the Hi-Loc's. They are specialty fasteners made to hold airplanes together. I have no doubt they are overkill for holding the driving dog on the rear wheel. The only problem I foresee, is the next time the driving dog needs replaced. Grinding off the old Hi-Loc collars looks like it will be difficult. I plan on greasing my rear splines religiously to keep from having to do that. Sorry for the delayed response. I usually get notified by youtube when asked a question. Didn't happen here.
Unfortunately no. This bike was a basket case and is still not on the road yet. I'm not worried about the Hi-Loks though. These are as strong as hardened bolts and are way easier to install than rivets.
Guillermo Salazar The Hi-Lok pin I used here is model# HL20PB-8-10. If you drill out your aluminum hub rivet holes to 1/4" like I did, you will need a 1/4" diameter Hi-Lok pin (the "8" in the model # above). I measured the un-threaded shaft length I needed to equal 5/8" (or 10/16" and where the "10" comes from in the model # above). The total length of the HL20PB-8-10 is about 1". It is the un-threaded shaft length that is the important measurement. You don't want any threads in the aluminum hub or driving dog.
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How did the Hi-Loc fasteners work for the driving dog? Hopefully you have a few hundred miles on the R75/5 now and I was hoping to use this method on my R60/5 final drive. Thanks
Unfortunately, this R75/5 is not back on the road yet. I purchased this BMW mostly in a box and it has become a much longer term project than I expected. Which is usually the case when you buy another's unfinished project. I am close though, stay tuned!
I wouldn't worry about the Hi-Loc's. They are specialty fasteners made to hold airplanes together. I have no doubt they are overkill for holding the driving dog on the rear wheel. The only problem I foresee, is the next time the driving dog needs replaced. Grinding off the old Hi-Loc collars looks like it will be difficult. I plan on greasing my rear splines religiously to keep from having to do that.
Sorry for the delayed response. I usually get notified by youtube when asked a question. Didn't happen here.
Have you had a chance to try out the new drive dog hub? Looks far less MONGO than re-riveting the thing on.
Unfortunately no. This bike was a basket case and is still not on the road yet. I'm not worried about the Hi-Loks though. These are as strong as hardened bolts and are way easier to install than rivets.
what sizes are the hi lok?
length i mean
Guillermo Salazar The Hi-Lok pin I used here is model# HL20PB-8-10. If you drill out your aluminum hub rivet holes to 1/4" like I did, you will need a 1/4" diameter Hi-Lok pin (the "8" in the model # above). I measured the un-threaded shaft length I needed to equal 5/8" (or 10/16" and where the "10" comes from in the model # above). The total length of the HL20PB-8-10 is about 1". It is the un-threaded shaft length that is the important measurement. You don't want any threads in the aluminum hub or driving dog.