You really did a great job Dana !! I like how u corrected the way u clocked the piston rings I was 😥 but once I seen u corrected I was 👍. I personally don't put oil on the rod bolts or any bolts inside the engine , the more oil it has inside the bolt the tighter it gets, and once u torq it , it will throws off the torq reading. U also know once the engine gets hot, it expands the oil inside the bolts and the oil becomes thinner, so the bolt losses its bolts tension thus bolt and or nuts becoming loosen through the engine life. But u didnt use that much i 👀. Rule of thumb I use locktight instead of oil and very little .. this gives it longevity going 100k+ miles. Thats my opinion tho Boss !! Mad respects !! Keep the videos coming
Awesome bro I’m not an engine builder myself and I rebuild my GSR and my girlfriend Toyota RAV4 after a head gasket failure at 190,000 miles plus it was smoking a little too so I rebuild the whole engine and 287,000 miles the Toyota still running strong no smoke and no oil leaks so I’m proud of myself. The GSR don’t know about since I no longer own the civic because I sold it. But rebuilding an engine it’s all about making sure your parts are in good conditions to be reuse and mainly are your clearances and you’re good to go. You follow the steps really good on your clearances so I’m confident in your rebuild. Keep doing what you doing 💯👍💪
I am so new, but I understood all you did. Thank you for showing this. And I am on my way to trying some of these Honda rebuilds because you posted this. Very detailed and the way it should be done! Thanks.
Good Job Dana! Everything looks awesome, rotates very smooth and effortlessly 👍 very informative video, will definitely come in handy when i start building my H22A4
Awesome bro i also have a GSR b18c, i just redid my block as well with, eagle rods and wiscos piston 9.1 compression. i just recently redid my transmission as well. Love watching the vids, helps out alot .
Really cool video. I tried rebuilding a single cam year ago and I didn't run right. I learned more later on some of the operations I did wrong and I just stored the engine away to leave alone and went with a different engine running. What I learned off your video was the clocking of the piston rings I didn't do that lol. Also I didn't measure my rings or knew there was a file. Shows I was a rookie but like you I came to the day where I gave it a try and I still have my engine and feel like giving it another go :)
Hell yeah, it’s about time you did it. Only way to learn is to break a couple engines, might be tight on the factory side or a little loose on the piston rings for more power
I love how informative you are with everything u make buildz eazy 4first timerz they need 2 watch ur vidz and they would be able 2 accomplish it 4 Shure BRO BRO much respect from phoenix az "ciNDy thE mOStdOPe ciVic"
great job lad. im impressed seeing you do a bottom end rebuild. that shit is no joke and i hope everything runs great when your done. much respect from scotland.
Dude, great video as always! You did a great job providing illustrative specs and dummy proofing your walkthrough. You also made it feel really human about calling out you installation hiccups, because no one is perfect. Keep it up man, cant wait to see it rup!
Hey just a question putting together the block now, and I can hear a click coming from the thrust washer piston upon turning it? Rods aren't in it yet/and crank turns smoothly.Thrust washers were installed correctly tho..any tips would be appreciated
Can use a strip of 2k grid and run it around pulling both ends at a time.depending if its got scoring u will need to chose the right grid to remove the scratch without removing to much material..and build your way back up to 2k...u can use a shoelace wrap it around the sanding paper to keep the paper around the entire journal..pull on end at a time..after you are done i sugess plasti gauging the bearings to measure tolerances..dont want to much space between journal and bearing it plays a role with oil pressure... Hope this helps.kind of hard to exlain without images..plasti gauge you buy strips at autoparts store..its a tiny plastic wire into a paper that has grads to measure...you lay the plastic on the journal..put bearings,caps torque it down...pull it back appart..then use the paper to measure how wide the plastic got when it got squished between journal and bearing...this is how you measure crank n rods bearings tolerances...if its too loose gota get up sized bearings... Gd luck
literally typed in youtube and watched videos on how to polish a crank shaft. most used a shoe string, i saw a video where this kid had his crank sitting on the jackstand and used a drill to rotate it.
Hey i know this is a 4 year old video but i have the same motor and my second ring is at 26 thou and thats out of spec wanted to know what rings you used.
Yo static how can I tell what piston size I need?? I have a b20b bottom end and a b16 head and also a gsr in the car running but the b20b block has slight rust due to it being exposed in the garage water didn’t touch it but it’s lightly rust on it do I need to take it to a machine shop and they tell me the piston size? Or can I hone it and use the OEM size piston?
hey man love the channel i run this block b18c jdm itr block with ctr pistons stock type r crank rods and head and i believe it has high compression any tips on how to properly release crank preasure it blows out my pan gasket and crank seal! and you make me want to hunt in junks yards
What rings you end up buying again that work? Having the same issue with the ring gap big too big out of the box. Nippon pistons is what I bought but both top rings are gap too big out of the box. Thanks in advance
i like how informative it is, im trying to rebuild a b18b1 but im doing exactly what you did but maxing out my reeler gauge, they are std rings and std bore, should i buy slightly bigger rings and file them down to get them into spec?
Is there a way where I can find the specifications like he has. Is it like a website or something you have to buy. i am planning on building a b18c1 so this would be very helpful as it will be my first build ever when the time comes.
Great content man. I'm also in the process of rebuilding my motor. This information came in clutch man. Now my list of things I need to buy just got bigger. One question Static. So I'm going turbo on my motor where should I put the ring end gaps to?
@youngstaic great job bro everything looked great! Only thing i wouldn't have done is put assembly lube on the bottom of the main caps, that can change the true reading on your plasti gauge. But everything else looked perfect.
probably only because i watched a few videos where they did lube before crank and measurement. its funny because i used the manual and its suppose to be dry LOL
tony segura can you plz tell me what part of the video you seen this. I’m tryna learn as much as I can but I didn’t see him add lube to anything in the clearance checking stage
I clocked my rings different from bunch of google search. Hope everything turn out fine when I temp to start it this weekend. My rings are clocked opposite from each other
@@goldfishninja8086 nobody can predict the time an engine will last.but if you measured,inspected,took precausions,get it tuned right etc.it should last...the first b20v i built was before my son was born.hes allmost 10yrs old.its been in 4cars abused still running...it was in my crv and i was revving it to 9800rpms!!it made 14flat in the crv no lsd w junk chinese tires,ls trans
YoungStatic oh my bad, I thought you was rebuilding the motor for the Crx but I must have missed some of your previous videos. My bad. Yea for stock build is good.
U can use dot3 brake fluid to clean the top of the pistons pour it on let it sit for 20 mins then go back with a silver Nickle brush and clean them and then use rag to whip clean I did it that way on my y8 and they looked like new
Great job!! You from Southeast Asia, the music at the end sound like from my country Laos. Looks like I have build my engine asap!!! Bad piston rings!!!🤦🏽♂️ I never build a motor, so scared to fuck it up😢
Great job bro!! Lots of good info but i really wish you'd use a rod bolt stretch Gage and also a bore gage as well.... You can get them at harbor fright for cheap. The rod bolt stretch is really important as just using a torque wrench can very just on the amount of lube you use on the threads.... Im still learning all of it too.....
I just bought a b18c block but on the back of the block where the tranny mounts to says p72 is that right. Your probably the only person I know and trust on this kind of info man.
Great video the only thing I would say is shouldn’t the main cap bolts be torqued without lubrication on them (dry torque vs wet torque) because if you put oil on the bolts and torque them to let’s say 50ft/lbs, in reality you are torquing them 20-30% more because of the reduction in friction on the threads.
my OCD is going haywire becuase of the carbon on top of the pistons lmao usually use a brass wire brush and brake cleaner/ starting fluid to get mine off. works prefect every time
This is one of the most informative engine building videos out there. You should really video tape the install on the small stuff too.
Thanks! i actually did, but it was starting to get into the 40+mins thats why the last clip, the block accessories were all attached
@@YoungStatic Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Thanks for what you do!
You really did a great job Dana !! I like how u corrected the way u clocked the piston rings I was 😥 but once I seen u corrected I was 👍. I personally don't put oil on the rod bolts or any bolts inside the engine , the more oil it has inside the bolt the tighter it gets, and once u torq it , it will throws off the torq reading. U also know once the engine gets hot, it expands the oil inside the bolts and the oil becomes thinner, so the bolt losses its bolts tension thus bolt and or nuts becoming loosen through the engine life. But u didnt use that much i 👀. Rule of thumb I use locktight instead of oil and very little .. this gives it longevity going 100k+ miles. Thats my opinion tho Boss !! Mad respects !! Keep the videos coming
I thought its possible you cant get a proper torque reading unless you lubricate the bolts and washers?
You must use oil to get accurate torque, or are lube if specified. Just not so much it hydraulics a bolt hole if blind
Hey brother you give me the confidence to accomplish a lot of stuff myself great video
One thing I've learned after a few engine builds, mineral spirits takes plaste gauge off like magic. Way better than anything else I've tried.
Got to love the step-by-step always appreciate the videos keep them coming static
Awesome bro I’m not an engine builder myself and I rebuild my GSR and my girlfriend Toyota RAV4 after a head gasket failure at 190,000 miles plus it was smoking a little too so I rebuild the whole engine and 287,000 miles the Toyota still running strong no smoke and no oil leaks so I’m proud of myself. The GSR don’t know about since I no longer own the civic because I sold it. But rebuilding an engine it’s all about making sure your parts are in good conditions to be reuse and mainly are your clearances and you’re good to go. You follow the steps really good on your clearances so I’m confident in your rebuild. Keep doing what you doing 💯👍💪
I am so new, but I understood all you did. Thank you for showing this. And I am on my way to trying some of these Honda rebuilds because you posted this. Very detailed and the way it should be done! Thanks.
Badass video, will use this for my build. Thumbs up for sure
Good Job Dana! Everything looks awesome, rotates very smooth and effortlessly 👍 very informative video, will definitely come in handy when i start building my H22A4
I’m about to rebuild my C1 this is what I needed to get more motivated appreciate the information
Awesome bro i also have a GSR b18c, i just redid my block as well with, eagle rods and wiscos piston 9.1 compression. i just recently redid my transmission as well. Love watching the vids, helps out alot .
I’m planning on doing a similar build as you soon. Can you tell me where you found the engine specifications. Is there like a website you used?
Great Job bro. have close to 20 rebuilt motors myself that are all still running today and honestly couldnt have done it better myself.
thanks for this video man i'm just about to rebuild my first block or two in the coming months will reference this when the time comes.
Im glad you finally went in a block bro!!! you did great!!!!
Thanks for the video man I’ve watched this like 3 times getting ready I’m about to rebuild my poor mans type r
What happens if the rings are out-of-spec? Like if the top ring is .028in and the limit is .024in?
Really cool video. I tried rebuilding a single cam year ago and I didn't run right. I learned more later on some of the operations I did wrong and I just stored the engine away to leave alone and went with a different engine running. What I learned off your video was the clocking of the piston rings I didn't do that lol. Also I didn't measure my rings or knew there was a file. Shows I was a rookie but like you I came to the day where I gave it a try and I still have my engine and feel like giving it another go :)
Hell yeah, it’s about time you did it. Only way to learn is to break a couple engines, might be tight on the factory side or a little loose on the piston rings for more power
Motor builds rule big up man keep up the great work Danna love the channel great knowledge great that u share it and show how it's done respect .
Hey how is this rebuild did you take the block to the machine shop???
probably learned it by now, but put a light coat of oil on the bearing to keep the plasti-gauge from sticking.
One of the best step by step engine building videos for b-series I've seen! Great content, keep it up!
Static +cat+Honda's=💯💯💯💯👍👍👍👍Keeping up the motavion for all of us!!!!!
I love how informative you are with everything u make buildz eazy 4first timerz they need 2 watch ur vidz and they would be able 2 accomplish it 4 Shure BRO BRO much respect from phoenix az
"ciNDy thE mOStdOPe ciVic"
Very great work, there nothing better than putting work in yourself and the accomplishment, good luck keep the video coming
Thank you so much for these detailed and well edited vids. Educates us that may not have the ability to pull off something like this. Great work man 👍
Been waiting to watch you do a full bottom end build!!! Very nice.
great job lad. im impressed seeing you do a bottom end rebuild. that shit is no joke and i hope everything runs great when your done. much respect from scotland.
Dude, great video as always! You did a great job providing illustrative specs and dummy proofing your walkthrough. You also made it feel really human about calling out you installation hiccups, because no one is perfect. Keep it up man, cant wait to see it rup!
I’m 16 and Khmer too very helpful gonna build a lsv soon thanks
Awesome job Dana nice short block assembly mate !!! Coming in clutch dude !!! 😜👍🇦🇺
Hey just a question putting together the block now, and I can hear a click coming from the thrust washer piston upon turning it? Rods aren't in it yet/and crank turns smoothly.Thrust washers were installed correctly tho..any tips would be appreciated
yoo i liked this kind of videos. it gives the viewer lot of knowledge for building an engine.. thanks for it bro 🙏 greetings from Indonesia ❤️
Outstanding DIY!! Gonna try and do a z6 i have laying around following this procedure. Keep inspiring us all...
Nice work, I think Eric The Car Guy used some fuel hose on the connecting rod studs when inserting into the block. 👍
Lol i seen it and didnt even think about that haha!
In school if we forgot those we failed engine module.can scratch the journals easy
Even if I forgot the “fuel hose “ as a sleeve, I still took precautionary actions with the rag on the journal to protect it from the rod studs
God bless your channel brother awesome videos 🙏🏻💯
Static how did you polish the crank?? I’ve got one I need done but why not diy? I’d appreciate the help.
Same, I'd like to know that too
Can use a strip of 2k grid and run it around pulling both ends at a time.depending if its got scoring u will need to chose the right grid to remove the scratch without removing to much material..and build your way back up to 2k...u can use a shoelace wrap it around the sanding paper to keep the paper around the entire journal..pull on end at a time..after you are done i sugess plasti gauging the bearings to measure tolerances..dont want to much space between journal and bearing it plays a role with oil pressure...
Hope this helps.kind of hard to exlain without images..plasti gauge you buy strips at autoparts store..its a tiny plastic wire into a paper that has grads to measure...you lay the plastic on the journal..put bearings,caps torque it down...pull it back appart..then use the paper to measure how wide the plastic got when it got squished between journal and bearing...this is how you measure crank n rods bearings tolerances...if its too loose gota get up sized bearings...
Gd luck
Yea a shoe string with polishing compound takes some time. DIY
literally typed in youtube and watched videos on how to polish a crank shaft. most used a shoe string, i saw a video where this kid had his crank sitting on the jackstand and used a drill to rotate it.
@@YoungStatic woops sorry youngstatic i was just at the beggining of ur video when i wrotte the comment to try and help them.my bad bro
Best step by step for gsr/b series
Hey i know this is a 4 year old video but i have the same motor and my second ring is at 26 thou and thats out of spec wanted to know what rings you used.
your videos always inspire me to wannna rebuild my engine one day...keep up the great work dana
Cant wait for this builds 1st start up
We thank you for the videos...you won't believe how your fans wait for new content ..we dont like waiting tho lol
forreal bro...im impatient when it comes to dana uploading his content lolz
thanks for this video man, tons of information here for anyone wanting to learn how to build a motor
Yo static how can I tell what piston size I need?? I have a b20b bottom end and a b16 head and also a gsr in the car running but the b20b block has slight rust due to it being exposed in the garage water didn’t touch it but it’s lightly rust on it do I need to take it to a machine shop and they tell me the piston size? Or can I hone it and use the OEM size piston?
Dope content as always bro! Was never a huge fan of boost until I started watching your vids and now I’m boostin my hatch pretty soon!
hey man love the channel i run this block b18c jdm itr block with ctr pistons stock type r crank rods and head and i believe it has high compression any tips on how to properly release crank preasure it blows out my pan gasket and crank seal! and you make me want to hunt in junks yards
This is the b series engine rebuild tutorial. Thanks man
What rings you end up buying again that work? Having the same issue with the ring gap big too big out of the box. Nippon pistons is what I bought but both top rings are gap too big out of the box. Thanks in advance
i like how informative it is, im trying to rebuild a b18b1 but im doing exactly what you did but maxing out my reeler gauge, they are std rings and std bore, should i buy slightly bigger rings and file them down to get them into spec?
Thanks man! You're so good at explaining!
Nice video. No need to clean off plasigauge. It's harnless and dissolves in the oil. 😊
great video, love from sydney Aus!
Great video bro! Lots of good info. Good luck on your build!
Is there a way where I can find the specifications like he has. Is it like a website or something you have to buy. i am planning on building a b18c1 so this would be very helpful as it will be my first build ever when the time comes.
Hell yea my dude! Nice and clean and great description on what you doing! Awesome!
So awesome. Thanks for your time. I can tell your pumped
Awesome job!! Very inspiring to watch you grow .. Happy New Year fam. .
Keep it Radd brother.
Great content man. I'm also in the process of rebuilding my motor. This information came in clutch man. Now my list of things I need to buy just got bigger. One question Static. So I'm going turbo on my motor where should I put the ring end gaps to?
you may have to use the formula to figure out where your ring gaps should be. search for honda ring gap calculator
Hey Dana does the crankshaft have to get rebalanced after you reinstall everything back?
Muy bien Bro saludos desde Honduras👊👊👊👊😎
Will this info work for b18b can I follow every step you took?
@youngstaic great job bro everything looked great! Only thing i wouldn't have done is put assembly lube on the bottom of the main caps, that can change the true reading on your plasti gauge. But everything else looked perfect.
Thats what i was thinkin too cuz i was told not to add lube when checking clearances
probably only because i watched a few videos where they did lube before crank and measurement. its funny because i used the manual and its suppose to be dry LOL
@@YoungStatic it makes sense to wanna add lubricant, it happens to the best of us dana.
William m what part of the video is this on
tony segura can you plz tell me what part of the video you seen this. I’m tryna learn as much as I can but I didn’t see him add lube to anything in the clearance checking stage
If I get the block machined, do I always need a thicker head gasket?
I clocked my rings different from bunch of google search. Hope everything turn out fine when I temp to start it this weekend. My rings are clocked opposite from each other
180 degres is the best way to clock them.prevents blowby.you are fine i do all my engines this way!!!
untouchable, light after darkness that’s good to hear. A sign of relief as it’s my very first build
@@goldfishninja8086 nobody can predict the time an engine will last.but if you measured,inspected,took precausions,get it tuned right etc.it should last...the first b20v i built was before my son was born.hes allmost 10yrs old.its been in 4cars abused still running...it was in my crv and i was revving it to 9800rpms!!it made 14flat in the crv no lsd w junk chinese tires,ls trans
love the video man. might be doing this with an integra soon
Hella Excited for this build!
15 is pretty tight for the power levels that you are trying to achieve... 17-19 is really what you should aim for. You should have used a X bearing
power level? this is a stock rebuild na motor not a boosted setup.
YoungStatic oh my bad, I thought you was rebuilding the motor for the Crx but I must have missed some of your previous videos. My bad. Yea for stock build is good.
YoungStatic If it’s loose no one knows. If it’s tight, everyone will know 🤣
Same here was thinking it was a boosted engine
untouchable, light after darkness yea... dude is sensitive what can I say
perfect one bro, i did last month my b20 from my crv.
U can use dot3 brake fluid to clean the top of the pistons pour it on let it sit for 20 mins then go back with a silver Nickle brush and clean them and then use rag to whip clean I did it that way on my y8 and they looked like new
great video! you should use assembly lube on the wrist pins and bearings
I remember watching this when it drop now I have the b18c1 block I have to build
Great job!! You from Southeast Asia, the music at the end sound like from my country Laos. Looks like I have build my engine asap!!! Bad piston rings!!!🤦🏽♂️ I never build a motor, so scared to fuck it up😢
Great job bro!! Lots of good info but i really wish you'd use a rod bolt stretch Gage and also a bore gage as well.... You can get them at harbor fright for cheap. The rod bolt stretch is really important as just using a torque wrench can very just on the amount of lube you use on the threads.... Im still learning all of it too.....
So much detailed content keep em coming yung!
Looking good so far brotha keep it up!
I just bought a b18c block but on the back of the block where the tranny mounts to says p72 is that right. Your probably the only person I know and trust on this kind of info man.
Yeah p72 is gsr b18c1
Dope Video bro, keep them coming!
Use a wire brush on drill to clean top of pistons. An if you haven't checked the deck clearance nows the time.
deck checked in the last video.
Keep up the great work you do
It’s getting there man 😎
Yo static what’s a good kit for my B18C type r
Great video the only thing I would say is shouldn’t the main cap bolts be torqued without lubrication on them (dry torque vs wet torque) because if you put oil on the bolts and torque them to let’s say 50ft/lbs, in reality you are torquing them 20-30% more because of the reduction in friction on the threads.
Great Job YStatic 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice work Dana!
Good ish I’m going to be rebuilding mine as well hope it goes as well as yours
Question how much they will charge you if you send the engine to rebuilding. And how much money you save doing it yourself
awesome video bro. keep it up 👍🏻
what would you do if the journal-bearing clearance was not in spec?
Awesome informative video 🤙🏾
What actually causes the imprint on the guage? The smooth bearing causes it?🧐
Tengo una pregunta .tengo una chevrolet aveo5 y quiero meterle un motor de honda k20 es posible que le quwpa??
ive seen some people measure the stretch on the rod cap bolts is that neccessary?
Great video static
I’m about to buy that arp tool, that looked to easy
Where you get torque specs and clearances?
Nice video That .0015 reads one thou five tenths or 15 tenths. Not 15 thou. (For learning purposes, not douchery) 😊
how would you read .0008?
@@whatsbehindu 8 tenths
@@gibhamracing37 okay cool thanks
I’ll been watching the swap videos are you made bro I’m super new in this world of swapping I got an 97 civic lx and I want a b20b
my OCD is going haywire becuase of the carbon on top of the pistons lmao usually use a brass wire brush and brake cleaner/ starting fluid to get mine off. works prefect every time
im most definitely going to clean them more!
Lol same
Like that cola oil bottle. What king of top is that??
Sick bro trying to do a rebuild your self props bro.