i broke off one of my bleeder valves on my 2010 civic, could not get it out...ended up going to Autozone and getting aftermarket/duralast caliper. Not a mechanic and really just an oil change/diff change type of guy and wanted to let you know your video saved my weekend....seems to be working fine even after I made a lot of mistakes trying to "save" money by bleeding/replacing my brake fluid myself....went too fast and cost me some time and money but learned alot.....thanks again for your video
It is a shame that your car video's do not get more views. Every one of them I've viewed has been absolutely top notch. So top notch that I watch them on jobs I already know how to do. Keep up the good work.
Hey Thanks! On RUclips it's more important to be the first to do something and you get the most views. However I've been getting lots of views for being a late arrival. The 08 Civic is a pretty standard repair though. Thanks for your comment! Cheers! Rob
@@lbates1011 which is a shame when anyone with a brain, an internet connection with thanks to the video creator,minor initiative, and tools that cost 20% of what a professional would cost…..could save themselves $100’s in an afternoon
I couldn't get my old rotor off despite banging hard with a hammer. Ended up pushing it off with a bolt and washer from the hub bracket. Problem is I forgot to take of off. When I torqued the new rotor on, it bent the bracket back and it was unfixable. Had to order a whole new knuckle assembly, ABS sensor, additional rotor.
Thanks for the effort in making this video. Would it make more sense to pinch the line before you disconnect it so you don't introduce air into the system, and maybe save a little of the fluid? I'll be attacking my brakes in the morning and just wanted to take a look of what I was in for.
Yes you pinch the line if you are replacing the caliper only. Most of the time you will just be pushing the piston back in to change the brake pads and rotors.
I use lock tite on the caliper and slide pin bolts vs your anti seize. My theory is I don’t want them coming loose. Not sure what’s right. What do you think?
The caliper bracket bolts are subjected to a fair amount of heat and weather along with the lug nuts. Living in Canada our roads are salted frequently in the winter which causes a fair amount of rust. That’s why you will always see me use anti seize. Without it the parts are very difficult to remove.
Hi great video 👍🏼. I have a 2008 Honda Civic 1.8l and I’m having issues with the calibers sticking. I installed new calibers, slide pins, rotors, brake pads and both front brake line hoses. I’m still getting a stuck caliber on the driver side front. I filled the brake fluid reservoir to the correct full level but can not seem to find the problem. There’s no leaks around the master cylinder, no ABS or break light and the brake lines look good. Break fluid runs through the front brake lines properly. I’m stuck on this one. If you or anyone have any ideas on what my issue is can you please let me know. Thank you.
Before you start the job turn the wheels so you have better access. Then loosen the lug nuts one turn then jack the car up and remove the wheel. After you finish one side start the car and turn the wheel the other way so you have better access.
I’m not sure. Never worked on one. I would assume if it had regenerative brakes it would still have the traditional disc brakes as a supplementary system or fail safe system.
@@QuietStormAngel Well, I’m not brand specific. I would look for a large one with a large handle. The ones I have were from Canadian Tire. It’s their house brand Motomaster. $100 Canadian about 6 or 7 years ago. I bought 2. Get the best quality tools you can afford because you will have them for life. These were the biggest cheapest ones I could get on sale at the time. I think you can see them in the video.
Depends - I've had VERY good luck with NAPA brake parts over the years. Their Adaptive One series holds up *much* better to NY winters and road salt induced rust and corrosion than Toyota or Honda brake parts, which seem to have pretty much no anti-salt measures in place. The NAPA brakes also seem to have the same stopping power as Honda and Toyota OEM but I admit I'm a laid back driver and don't slam or abuse my brakes under normal driving conditions. I have been very pleased with NAPA "aftermarket" brakes.
i broke off one of my bleeder valves on my 2010 civic, could not get it out...ended up going to Autozone and getting aftermarket/duralast caliper. Not a mechanic and really just an oil change/diff change type of guy and wanted to let you know your video saved my weekend....seems to be working fine even after I made a lot of mistakes trying to "save" money by bleeding/replacing my brake fluid myself....went too fast and cost me some time and money but learned alot.....thanks again for your video
@@kc8262 You’re Welcome! Thanks for your comment!
It is a shame that your car video's do not get more views. Every one of them I've viewed has been absolutely top notch. So top notch that I watch them on jobs I already know how to do. Keep up the good work.
Hey Thanks! On RUclips it's more important to be the first to do something and you get the most views. However I've been getting lots of views for being a late arrival. The 08 Civic is a pretty standard repair though.
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
People dont want to work on their own stuff misfortuately
@@lbates1011 which is a shame when anyone with a brain, an internet connection with thanks to the video creator,minor initiative, and tools that cost 20% of what a professional would cost…..could save themselves $100’s in an afternoon
Best videos with brake calipers install thanks!! 👍
@@sc6015 You’re Welcome! Thanks for your comment!
I'm about to do pads rotors and calipers on my Civic lets hope all goes well. Video was a huge help thank you :)
Thanks man this is very helpful
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
You instruct your brake assistant the exact same way I do!
I couldn't get my old rotor off despite banging hard with a hammer. Ended up pushing it off with a bolt and washer from the hub bracket. Problem is I forgot to take of off. When I torqued the new rotor on, it bent the bracket back and it was unfixable. Had to order a whole new knuckle assembly, ABS sensor, additional rotor.
Thanks a lot 👍
Thanks for the effort in making this video. Would it make more sense to pinch the line before you disconnect it so you don't introduce air into the system, and maybe save a little of the fluid? I'll be attacking my brakes in the morning and just wanted to take a look of what I was in for.
Yes you pinch the line if you are replacing the caliper only. Most of the time you will just be pushing the piston back in to change the brake pads and rotors.
I use lock tite on the caliper and slide pin bolts vs your anti seize. My theory is I don’t want them coming loose. Not sure what’s right. What do you think?
The caliper bracket bolts are subjected to a fair amount of heat and weather along with the lug nuts. Living in Canada our roads are salted frequently in the winter which causes a fair amount of rust. That’s why you will always see me use anti seize. Without it the parts are very difficult to remove.
Do you have to bleed rear drums also? Having issues with spongy pedal after bleeding front brakes but I will try your method of bleeding brakes.
Great video 👍🏼 thank you
Very well explained.
Thanks for you're comment!
Cheers!
Rob
thank you so much man
@@pablovaldes2397 You’re Welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Do you know the honda part number for the banjo bolt and washers? 07 civic lx 4 door
Hi great video 👍🏼. I have a 2008 Honda Civic 1.8l and I’m having issues with the calibers sticking. I installed new calibers, slide pins, rotors, brake pads and both front brake line hoses. I’m still getting a stuck caliber on the driver side front. I filled the brake fluid reservoir to the correct full level but can not seem to find the problem. There’s no leaks around the master cylinder, no ABS or break light and the brake lines look good. Break fluid runs through the front brake lines properly. I’m stuck on this one. If you or anyone have any ideas on what my issue is can you please let me know. Thank you.
Probably your wheel bearing.
Exactly what I was looking for! Any experience with DuraLast Autozone brand brake calipers?
Thanks!
What would be the best way to do the brake pads with only a spare tire jack.....do I need to turn the wheel?? Or could I take off the caliber as is
Before you start the job turn the wheels so you have better access. Then loosen the lug nuts one turn then jack the car up and remove the wheel. After you finish one side start the car and turn the wheel the other way so you have better access.
Excellent.
@@terryblais9128 Thanks Terry!
Great video, thank you
Sorry if I missed it, what size socket for the old banjo bolt and the new banjo bolt?
I believed the old one was 10mm and the new one was 11mm
Awesome thanks!
How did you tighten down your guide pin bolts? Mine just keep spinning
Sounds like it’s time for a new caliper.
The part/nut that keeps spinning, use a wrench on it to keep it from spinning
Nice work thanks are hybrid the same ?
I’m not sure. Never worked on one. I would assume if it had regenerative brakes it would still have the traditional disc brakes as a supplementary system or fail safe system.
Yo do u think I could get away with doing the pads with only a spare tire jack ?
Yep. But think of investing in a good large floor jack. You will have it for life and you will love it and it is guaranteed to save you money!
@@robsgaragewoodworkin what kind do you recommend?
@@QuietStormAngel Well, I’m not brand specific. I would look for a large one with a large handle. The ones I have were from Canadian Tire. It’s their house brand Motomaster. $100 Canadian about 6 or 7 years ago. I bought 2. Get the best quality tools you can afford because you will have them for life. These were the biggest cheapest ones I could get on sale at the time. I think you can see them in the video.
Between modern snow tires and plow trucks everywhere you would think salting the roads isn't needed if it does that kind of damage to the vehicles.
What brand torque bar are you using?
Power Fist. They are the house brand from Princess Auto.
After market parts I guess you will be doing a brake job again real soon after market parts = GARBAGE
Premium parts are OEM quality and depending on make and model you can get better than OEM.
Depends - I've had VERY good luck with NAPA brake parts over the years. Their Adaptive One series holds up *much* better to NY winters and road salt induced rust and corrosion than Toyota or Honda brake parts, which seem to have pretty much no anti-salt measures in place. The NAPA brakes also seem to have the same stopping power as Honda and Toyota OEM but I admit I'm a laid back driver and don't slam or abuse my brakes under normal driving conditions. I have been very pleased with NAPA "aftermarket" brakes.
A lot of aftermarket calipers are rebuilt OEM ones. If you're worried, save the old ones and rebuild them, clean and regrease the slide pins well.