@@ATexCatebroooo! It worked!! I also run N320 and powder coated bullets and I rebuild my slide and issue was still there! I cleaned the inside of my barrel like you said and problem solved!!! Thank you so much man! 🙏🏼
I had double feeds for several times per stage on yesterday's competition. I still want to isolate what's going on, I will try different approaches to narrow it down. I will definitely try this approach also.
So far 13/14 people who have taken the time to get back with me and let me know their results, have claimed this fixed their problem. Hopefully it's as simple as this for you as well my friend. The one Outlier was due to his extractor spring being so full of garbage, the extractor pretty much wasn't moving.
@ATexCate I will definitely let you know. I made a complete list of things I want to test and I will let you know if this the case or something else. First I thought it was ammo and spring, since I use factory S&B 124, and PPU worked. Than I put softer spring and it still doesn't work. Have you tried just oiling that part of barrell? I am thinking to spray WD40 just on that part to see if it works. But that will be my last test before I clean up and polish that part. How did you come up with that idea anyway? Just a blind guess or particular way of thinking? Btw, I've subscribed.
I worked in aerospace for many years so understanding metallurgy and mechanical mechanism was part of that job. It wasn’t a blind guess by any means. I dissected exactly how the case was acting coming out (through slow mo video) and went from there. Before ever replacing a part, I always inspect the current parts and put efforts into taking time to return them to their original form when the firearm WORKED ie. cleaning it like brand new. I would not recommend spraying it with WD40 as that will ad thickness and possibly make the problem worse. Get out all the carbon first, and there’s never a need to lube the chamber. Kind of like unplug it and plug it back in. Try Resetting it before going to replacing parts. Once that worked I also filed .002 off the contact face of the extractor just to get a little bit farther of an ejection pattern per my personal wants. But most people when cleaning their gun, don’t actually clean it 100%. Carbon continues to build in those area until a problem is created.
OK, so I've tried several things yesterday on the range. I have failure to extract only on S&B ammunition. Same ammunition works on my buddy's compact Shadow, on my P10F. My Shadow 2 works flawlessly with PPU and Fiocchi. Go figure. My coach today told me he has two Shadow 2s. One works flawlessly with everything. Second one works only with PPU. Go figure now
@@ATexCatecan you please mske a video how you polish the chamber? Do you polish only feed ramp or inside the barrel. Mind you, I am not a native English native speaker, so I am not 100 percent familiar with all the terms and meanings. Do you polish only feed ramp?
Yes this is the fix! One of the guys from CZ Custom actually recommended it to me on Enos forums back in 21. I was using Cleanshot, I really think it’s the coating in the chamber that’s the issue.
Had this issue on my S2 with minor PF “match” 147 grain but don’t see it at all with “match” 124’s or 115’s. My wife has the same issue with her P-10 F. I think it’s either slide velocity or European chamber dimensions. Did the camber polish and extractor stand-off reduction as well as an “extra power” extractor spring (tried with and without one coil cut down) - still had occasional issues with the 147’s.
if youre buying them, id rule that brand completely out until you get your barrel reamed!. if the OAL (Overall Length) of the round is even a hair too long, it gets stuck in the euro chambering. most all of us (Competitively) have had our barrels reamed so they accept most rounds. that's what I would suggest you do and it should solve your problem regardless of the brand! I have ran 3K of 147 @supervel as well as 3,000 Brass Monkey CD 147's (I loaded), and 1,000 Berrys 147's (I Loaded). not a single malfunction during that time on any of my logs. But I got my barrel reamed at 2,000 rounds. it is now around 32,000.
i just ran into this issue 5 times this weekend but my casing was almost fully extracted and the next round was basically tip to tip with the casing. i suspected it was the aguilla ammo cuz so far its eaten 1k roounds of blazer, 115,124,147 but immediately had an issue with my 2nd round of aguilla.
So that I understand it correctly: You simply polished the area where the case sits in the barrel so that the case is then ejected more easily from the chamber. Can you please tell me exactly which attachment you used to polish it? "I don't want to damage the chamber since I don't have a receipt for the gun. My extractor looks new. I might consider replacing the spring." Thx!
I just got my cz shadow 2 blue , got around 500-600 rounds. Had maybe 7-8 FTE. I am shooting Magtech Steel case 115 grain and using Mec-Gar 10 round mags. Maybe it’s a combination of the gun being new and the steel ammo
I personally wouldn't shoot steel ammo in general out of anything more than a $500 gun that I don't care about. Especially not a shadow 2. European barrel chambering is extremely tightly toleranced. For those of us who use them regularly, we ALL have our barrels reamed because of such. Premium brands usually prefer premium rated ammo. aka. NO crap, Cheap, ammo. shadow does shoot most things, but I would stay away from steel, get the barrel reamed, and you should be all good my friend!
@@ATexCatejust shot another 300 rounds of brass thru it. Maybe had another 5-6 FTE. It seemed like when the empty case didn’t clear the chamber , like the extractor missed it kinda or didn’t grab it well. But I’m gonna bring it back to the gun store I bought it from and let there gun smith take a look. As far as reaming , you mean like making it bigger or polishing the feed ramps ?
It’s how dirty the steel case ammo is… So your chamber is gunking up. The fixes I talk about in my video are FOR the problem you’re having. Which is also why I say avoid steel case ammo. Clean your chamber, it’s getting stuck on the grit on the sides during extraction. Not all brass is created equal, especially after detonation. Like I said about tight chamber tolerances. Clean it. Polish it. Stop using steel case. And do not bring it back to the shop you bought it from, it is not their fault. Or their responsibility. It’s the ammunition you’re running through it. And a dirty un reamed chamber having the worst type of ammo ran through it. If they have a gunsmith, pay him to ream and polish your chamber.
@@ATexCate I gotcha. Yes they do have a gun smith. I deff will stay away from the steel cased ammo for sure. Now as far as what you did to the extractor to make it bite a bit more. What did you use to do it ? & is this reaming the barrel something that has to be done all the time or just keep up with maintenance cleaning the gun often
Start with the barrel ream and polish. The extractor modification is hardly necessary. I would avoid that unless your problem persists. Don’t change more than 1 thing at a time when testing out a problem. Change one thing, test, change another, test! The barrel ream is done one time. By a gunsmith. Do not do that yourself unless you are willing to replace your barrel, are a gunsmith yourself, or an experienced machinist. The polishing I do every 1-2k rounds personally.
1 Q sir.. i have a problem with my cz S2.. the problem is I always experience a DUD of the primer every time im in the match and it cause a lot of trouble in the match.
Increase the weight of your hammer spring and add an extended firing pin from CajunGunWorks (the spring in the grip). This is common with the shadows. I run a 13# hammer spring and never have light strikes. I know guys who are fine with an 11, and I know guys who aren’t. But light strikes means too light of a hammer spring. The extended firing pin also aids. Especially if they’re federal or Winchester primers, they are harder than cci for example. Takes more oomph to kick it.
Just got a CZ shadow 2. First range day I had a FTE on the second mag. Using VV N320 as well. Will definitely try out these mods with maybe a new extractor spring. Also are those the Brass Monkey 147 grain?
I’ve had mine right at two years now, probably about 2500 rounds. Been back to CZ twice and it’s not even slightly better. So tired of dealing with this!
Bro thank you so much! Been having this issue for like the last 4 matches and it’s annoying as hell!!! I will definitely try this out! 🙏🏼🤞🏼
Yeah it really is!! Let me know how it pans out for ya!
@@ATexCatebroooo! It worked!! I also run N320 and powder coated bullets and I rebuild my slide and issue was still there! I cleaned the inside of my barrel like you said and problem solved!!! Thank you so much man! 🙏🏼
@alonsoarellanocarryoptics absolutely my friend!! Very happy to hear it!! 🙌🏽
I had double feeds for several times per stage on yesterday's competition. I still want to isolate what's going on, I will try different approaches to narrow it down. I will definitely try this approach also.
So far 13/14 people who have taken the time to get back with me and let me know their results, have claimed this fixed their problem. Hopefully it's as simple as this for you as well my friend. The one Outlier was due to his extractor spring being so full of garbage, the extractor pretty much wasn't moving.
@ATexCate I will definitely let you know. I made a complete list of things I want to test and I will let you know if this the case or something else. First I thought it was ammo and spring, since I use factory S&B 124, and PPU worked. Than I put softer spring and it still doesn't work.
Have you tried just oiling that part of barrell? I am thinking to spray WD40 just on that part to see if it works. But that will be my last test before I clean up and polish that part.
How did you come up with that idea anyway? Just a blind guess or particular way of thinking?
Btw, I've subscribed.
I worked in aerospace for many years so understanding metallurgy and mechanical mechanism was part of that job. It wasn’t a blind guess by any means. I dissected exactly how the case was acting coming out (through slow mo video) and went from there. Before ever replacing a part, I always inspect the current parts and put efforts into taking time to return them to their original form when the firearm WORKED ie. cleaning it like brand new.
I would not recommend spraying it with WD40 as that will ad thickness and possibly make the problem worse. Get out all the carbon first, and there’s never a need to lube the chamber.
Kind of like unplug it and plug it back in. Try Resetting it before going to replacing parts.
Once that worked I also filed .002 off the contact face of the extractor just to get a little bit farther of an ejection pattern per my personal wants. But most people when cleaning their gun, don’t actually clean it 100%. Carbon continues to build in those area until a problem is created.
OK, so I've tried several things yesterday on the range. I have failure to extract only on S&B ammunition. Same ammunition works on my buddy's compact Shadow, on my P10F. My Shadow 2 works flawlessly with PPU and Fiocchi. Go figure. My coach today told me he has two Shadow 2s. One works flawlessly with everything. Second one works only with PPU. Go figure now
@@ATexCatecan you please mske a video how you polish the chamber? Do you polish only feed ramp or inside the barrel. Mind you, I am not a native English native speaker, so I am not 100 percent familiar with all the terms and meanings.
Do you polish only feed ramp?
Yes this is the fix! One of the guys from CZ Custom actually recommended it to me on Enos forums back in 21.
I was using Cleanshot, I really think it’s the coating in the chamber that’s the issue.
Had this issue on my S2 with minor PF “match” 147 grain but don’t see it at all with “match” 124’s or 115’s. My wife has the same issue with her P-10 F. I think it’s either slide velocity or European chamber dimensions.
Did the camber polish and extractor stand-off reduction as well as an “extra power” extractor spring (tried with and without one coil cut down) - still had occasional issues with the 147’s.
if youre buying them, id rule that brand completely out until you get your barrel reamed!. if the OAL (Overall Length) of the round is even a hair too long, it gets stuck in the euro chambering. most all of us (Competitively) have had our barrels reamed so they accept most rounds. that's what I would suggest you do and it should solve your problem regardless of the brand! I have ran 3K of 147 @supervel as well as 3,000 Brass Monkey CD 147's (I loaded), and 1,000 Berrys 147's (I Loaded). not a single malfunction during that time on any of my logs. But I got my barrel reamed at 2,000 rounds. it is now around 32,000.
i just ran into this issue 5 times this weekend but my casing was almost fully extracted and the next round was basically tip to tip with the casing. i suspected it was the aguilla ammo cuz so far its eaten 1k roounds of blazer, 115,124,147 but immediately had an issue with my 2nd round of aguilla.
I mean if it only happened with that ammo, you already got your answer! Process of elimination my friend!
@@ATexCate thats what i assumed cuz thats the only variable thats changed. just knowing my luck it couldnt be that simple lol
So that I understand it correctly: You simply polished the area where the case sits in the barrel so that the case is then ejected more easily from the chamber. Can you please tell me exactly which attachment you used to polish it?
"I don't want to damage the chamber since I don't have a receipt for the gun. My extractor looks new. I might consider replacing the spring."
Thx!
Yes which is known as “the chamber”. And a cloth polishing attachment + flitz on a dremmel or by hand until happy with result.
@@ATexCateI don’t know much about dremeling. Is there a certain roughness you want to use for the attachment?
I just got my cz shadow 2 blue , got around 500-600 rounds. Had maybe 7-8 FTE. I am shooting Magtech Steel case 115 grain and using Mec-Gar 10 round mags. Maybe it’s a combination of the gun being new and the steel ammo
I personally wouldn't shoot steel ammo in general out of anything more than a $500 gun that I don't care about. Especially not a shadow 2. European barrel chambering is extremely tightly toleranced. For those of us who use them regularly, we ALL have our barrels reamed because of such.
Premium brands usually prefer premium rated ammo. aka. NO crap, Cheap, ammo. shadow does shoot most things, but I would stay away from steel, get the barrel reamed, and you should be all good my friend!
@@ATexCatejust shot another 300 rounds of brass thru it. Maybe had another 5-6 FTE. It seemed like when the empty case didn’t clear the chamber , like the extractor missed it kinda or didn’t grab it well. But I’m gonna bring it back to the gun store I bought it from and let there gun smith take a look. As far as reaming , you mean like making it bigger or polishing the feed ramps ?
It’s how dirty the steel case ammo is…
So your chamber is gunking up. The fixes I talk about in my video are FOR the problem you’re having.
Which is also why I say avoid steel case ammo.
Clean your chamber, it’s getting stuck on the grit on the sides during extraction. Not all brass is created equal, especially after detonation.
Like I said about tight chamber tolerances.
Clean it. Polish it. Stop using steel case. And do not bring it back to the shop you bought it from, it is not their fault. Or their responsibility. It’s the ammunition you’re running through it. And a dirty un reamed chamber having the worst type of ammo ran through it. If they have a gunsmith, pay him to ream and polish your chamber.
@@ATexCate I gotcha. Yes they do have a gun smith. I deff will stay away from the steel cased ammo for sure. Now as far as what you did to the extractor to make it bite a bit more. What did you use to do it ? & is this reaming the barrel something that has to be done all the time or just keep up with maintenance cleaning the gun often
Start with the barrel ream and polish. The extractor modification is hardly necessary. I would avoid that unless your problem persists.
Don’t change more than 1 thing at a time when testing out a problem. Change one thing, test, change another, test! The barrel ream is done one time. By a gunsmith. Do not do that yourself unless you are willing to replace your barrel, are a gunsmith yourself, or an experienced machinist. The polishing I do every 1-2k rounds personally.
1 Q sir.. i have a problem with my cz S2.. the problem is I always experience a DUD of the primer every time im in the match and it cause a lot of trouble in the match.
Increase the weight of your hammer spring and add an extended firing pin from CajunGunWorks (the spring in the grip). This is common with the shadows. I run a 13# hammer spring and never have light strikes.
I know guys who are fine with an 11, and I know guys who aren’t. But light strikes means too light of a hammer spring. The extended firing pin also aids. Especially if they’re federal or Winchester primers, they are harder than cci for example. Takes more oomph to kick it.
Just got a CZ shadow 2. First range day I had a FTE on the second mag. Using VV N320 as well. Will definitely try out these mods with maybe a new extractor spring. Also are those the Brass Monkey 147 grain?
They’re the new storm trooper brass monkeys yes but this coating comes in multiple weights. These were 137’s.
I’ve had mine right at two years now, probably about 2500 rounds. Been back to CZ twice and it’s not even slightly better. So tired of dealing with this!
That’s frustrating. I made it much further than that before issues.
Have you done the things I’ve suggested? Or had done?
Local range expert says “lets try Fiochi 124 G only” for a while. I will polish the chamber today, that sounds very promising. Thanks for the video!