Fuji Acros II Mamiya RZ - Shoot & Making Darkroom Prints and Contacts
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- Опубликовано: 16 май 2021
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ABOUT THIS VIDEO
Shooting the Mamiya RZ67 and Fuji Acros II
EQUIPMENT USED
CAMERA - Mamiya RZ67 with 645 back
FILM - Fuji Acros II
DEVELOPER - 510 Pyro
STOP & FIX - Fotospeed
ENLARGER - DURST M605
PAPER - Ilford MG Deluxe Glossy Resin
DEVELOPER - Ilford MG
STOP & FIX - FOTOSPEED
PRODUCTION GEAR
CANON 6D, GOPRO 7 BLACK, TASCAM DR10L MIC, SENHEISSER SHOTGUN MIC,
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS,
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM, Micro 2 Plus Slider
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
MUSIC CREDITING
RUclips Studio Music 
Хобби
Wonderful teaching video and results. RS. Canada
I can appreciate getting it right with just the contrast 0 filter. I just got access to a darkroom last weekend and after hours of faf trying to split grade print, I ended up with my best result using just the contrast 0 filter. Clearly got a lot more to learn than I thought I did. You just make it look simple.
Yes usually over exposed negs lead to a contrast zero to fix it.
Thankyou for another great video. You inspire me to get out there and shot film
Cheers Gaz.
Funny thing is that I lived in Britain 40 years ago, 81-82 and it rarely rained ... as a yank, I though it would be be foggy all the time ... I lived in Raeding and Southamptom ... only weird weather was that on New years Eve it snowed about an an inch and the whole country stopped ... I was used to a few feet of snow!!! I only have an RB67, but am happy with it!!!
I remember the snow of 81 and 82 in London as a kid. Lasted ages. I jest, we have decent summers, some years lol
Great job again! Love watching you working there and learning from your detailed workflow! Thanks a lot!
You have to be British to say the sky is not looking too bad. 😇
I do most of my shooting in the desert, so when there's even a single cloud in the sky I'm thinking to myself "Now's my chance to finally change it up!"
Great photographs and darkroom session!! Big fan of your videos, cheers from Greece!
Thanks Christos. Happy greetings from UK 👍🇬🇧
Good job. With the 510 Pyro, I usually give it half a stop extra exposure and reduce the development by 20%. You would have had difficulty with the highlights if you had a proper British summer day. I too don't understand why Acros II is so expensive, perhaps we should ask Harman/Ilford. Bring back the good old days please, I used to pay about £31.00 for a pack of 10 Acros 100.
Looking at my sheet I was possibly 2 stops over. Can't understand why my metering was off that much. I'm thinking I metered and then as I hit the shutter the sun came out the clouds (they were moving fast) . Without me realising the change in brightness.
I’ve never heard anyone say that the camera “luckily” skipped a frame. 😂 Great seeing you back in the darkroom here on RUclips as well.
Always make light of a bad situation lol
Great episode , thanks
That om2 image is sweet. Acros is magic at 64 iso in Pyro HD 1+1 +50
Yeah I need to play with it more. Its pricey though!
Amazing job! Great capturies!
Acros would be a dream in 510 Pyro, very sharp and fine grained as you mentioned the difficulty to see that grain when focusing!!!
Beautiful compositions Roger, definitely did look over exposed however but still printed very well at C0!
Started experimenting with Adox CMS 20ii in 510 Pyro for times, it's so high res and fine grained, I did a 2:1 crop on a 40MP scan of 35mm and still couldn't see the grain!!!! It was a test photo of a lens resolution chart and it out resolved the chart 😆 need to get a higher end chart like up to 400 lpm as 200 wasn't enough!
Mad lab man. Lol. I couldn't believe I over exposed those shots. Recoverable though.
Thanks for showing how you make contact sheets, I've been struggling myself trying to make decent ones. Will have to try what you've done!
At the end of the video there is a link to my video on 35mm contact making
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you. Just watched it. Will be giving it a go the next time I do some printing!
Very nice work, I agree the original composition due to the aspect ratio emphasizing the long pier. I was taught to focus the enlarger on grain but now try rather to use edges in the image.
I have another view finder for edges if the grain is so fine. Its very old lol
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Heh heh, I can't tell if you are serious and there is a different kind of scope for focusing!
@@oudviola true. You place it on the baseboard and it projects the image back at you. Its like a periscope. Very small
Great vid bud :-) I've just bought a hoodie :-)
Fuji Acros II is the best film I've used. The price point is killing me though 😂
Very nice images, always really deep focus, would you consider a video on hyperfocal distance specifically using the RZ67?
What would you and think others would want to know Jonny?
Great shoots as always Roger, the across film is more expensive because Fujifilm as to make money and the Harman technology have to make some money too 😅. Cheers my friend
Is it harman?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I'm not 100% sure, but made in UK. How many factories do you have in UK producing film?
Acros costs $21.50 in Oz, which is about the same price you pay, relatively. Fairly expensive, but I'd pay that much for it. Especially, if I had a paid job to do and I wanted top quality results.
Not Ilford films for top quality results?
Oh, you can use Ilford films as well, but I was just talking about Acros.
Roger ...I think it is possible to split contrast filters ..between exposures say 8 secs on high contrast ..and then build up low contrast to allow more exposure on low lights for 8 ..
It is Nicholas. Not on this neg though. I didn't bother with grade 2.5 and went straight to zero as I knew the neg was heavy.
I don't know if this link will work - but this goes some way to explain why Acros is
A) So expensive and B) So revered.
www.digitaltruth.com/products/fuji_tech/NeopanAcros100-120.pdf
In the past I must have shot upwards of a 1000 rolls of this stuff on RZ's and it is the dogs wotsits when compared to to alternatives. What makes it so good it is the absolute 100% consistency and therefore reliability of the neg. My printers always talked about 'thickness' and told me I produced 'very thick' negs - rather than talking about my incompetency they were actually referring to 'density' - something I have learned and taken with me into the digital world (void) I now inhabitat - ie exposure!!!!! All good - keep on shooting on!!!!
Yes she as I had here. Heavy negs. I have another roll which I am going to have a practice with! Thanks for the link.
Hi boss, long time since I commented, as always you put an entertaining video up, .... how would you like to come and rebuild my darkroom 😂😂😂....
Ha ha ha Malc. 😂
I think I actually prefer the om20 print 🤔
How do like your 3-legged thing tripod? Great video.
It's okay actually. Use it all the time. Very sturdy and light too. Need a bigger plate for the Mamiya though but it holds it well.
Great video once again. I've never developed my own film but want to get into it in the future. So my noob question is. Why did you use pyro?
I was given a stash to play with by James Lane at zone imaging lab. So I'm experimenting a lot with it. If not I would have used Ilford ID11
nice images! i wonder, why re-make the test strip at f8, when you made one at f11 and found 14 seconds to be satisfactory? f8 is one stop more light, so it's equivalent to 7 seconds and you're good to go
Yes true.
I've had the same problem with Acros. I wonder if it needs to be exposed differently.
loved both prints but the 35mm shot wins it for me. Do you find that medium format is worth the extra expense & effort for quality ? & at what enlargement does it make the difference.Keep up brilliant inspiring vids
Yes the 35mm was a better day for it. It printed well at 10x8 too. I wanted to try it again with a different film and medium format too. And with 120 being a larger surface area than 35mm it can enlarge a bit better. Especially at 10x8.(less Grain appearence and sharper) but not much at 645.
645 is my preference. A significant increase over 35 mm, 3x the area 300% , but only a 50% increase from 645 to 67. My mamiya 645 pro tl is my go to mf out of studio. Plus a fine grain film like acros becomes more digital in 67. @@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
I am late to comment but do you know you have used a music from india culture. . this song is also in indian movie Lagaan . Song is" kaale megha kaale megha , paani to barsao. Means dark cloud pls give rain
Ha ha no I didn't know that. What a coincidence!
No reciprocity failure ? No thank you ! 😁
Fuji Acros Data Sheet says: "This film exhibits extremely minimal reduction in sensitivity even in extended, low-light exposures, thus producing excellent results in astronomical photography and night scenes, as well as architecture and other subjects requiring long exposures.
I agree with you; who would want that?
Give me inconsistency and uncertainty any day of the week!!!
Have a good one
@@nelsonclub7722 I do (very) long exposure with Ilford Pan F and kodak Tmax 100, I never had any problem with my results (unless I forget to put a filter, which happens too many times 😁), so reciprocity failure is not a problem for me, and I'm glad I can play with it to have even longer shots 🙂 but that's the beauty with film and photo, you can do anything, as long as it is fine with you.
@@maxencelemoine4190 Both films are par excellence - reciprocity all depends on a great number of factors though!!
Tell me what's wrong with FP4 and Microphen?
Nothing
FP4 is much more grainy than Acros but if you dont care too much about that, it's a great film. I like it in 120 where the size of the grain doesn't matter.
I get better scans from FP4 too.
Microphen seems to be better suited for higher speed films and for push processing. I dont think Fp4 will benefit from it.
very contrasty for contrast zero and an overcast day! Also, the blacks have blocked up. Try lowering the speed and shortening the development or try another developer to get some shadow detail. I don't think I'll be purchasing any Acros II, looks more like litho film.
Yeah I had to use zero. Anything else would have crushed my blacks. I have another 120 roll which I'll probably pull when I shoot it. That's the thing with shooting film. Getting used to a film and developer knowing how to work it. I'd need more acrosii for that lol
Cut it out with that music I am tripping balls man
😂
I had microsleeps
You said it lubbly jubbly...you also mentioned filters possibly polarize / red
I took orange and red with me just in case the blue sky popped out. It did when I got back to my car 😂
"Lovely Jubbly" lol