@@FixThisHouse I bought that same stud finder a few days ago and sometimes all the lights come on when I put it on the wall and then I take it off the wall and put it back on the wall to the same spot and get no lights, those things are very questionable about their reliability,, but better than not having one at all.
@@tremarrimorris75 the trick is most or nearly all stud finders need pre calibration this is using your stud finder to find a stud may be false or true find but the calibration happens when you think you have an area with no stud count 2 or 3 seconds then move your finder to the direction your try to find as it has calibrated if it cant find anything moving to an area with something.... if finder labels wires as stud that unfortunate but its the most accuracy a finder can have if you calibrate it. Magnets never lie!!! my favorite thing to do is pair digital with magnetic. lot of times i will use my digital to find stud. then i will use a magnet and go up or down till i find a screw head then i use another magnet to find one above or below then i measure 16 inches left and or right and do small circles till i find a screw from here you should see a pattern and it can give you an imaginary xray vision. this often helps you avoid cutting into nail or screws to dull blades as well as the may creative reasons why you might want to grid your walls.
That's surprising how bad the non contact voltage detection was. I have a cheap IR thermometer that has a NCV detector in it and it is pretty reliable at several inches away and through drywall.
I did this but I was not great about taking pics. I often refer to the pics but are never enough. So if you're building, take MANY pics. Both whole walls and close up shots of wiring, piping, ducting, etc.
So smart. Every builder should do this. Especially now, given the costs associated with housing. At least, give us some pictures of what's inside the walls.
Thanks! Wonderful tip! It should be standard by builders to do this and pass it on to owners and so on when it changes hands.Of course over time changes would have been made but still a big help.
I cut thru a gas pipe whist try to extend a patress box for a double electrical socket. It was covered with plaster, I thought it was just the dot and dab plaster 😢
I’ve owned a few new homes over the years and my wife and I would always head over to the site to see the progress of the build. While there I would walk around the interior before the drywall was put up and take pictures of the walls and ceiling…..lots of pictures. Whenever I need to figure out what’s behind the wall I wish to work on I would open up my house file and take a look. And yes I know owners are not supposed to be inside the house while it’s under construction but we’d go on weekends…..usually a Sunday when no workers were present and just take a peak. It was always exciting. We’d see other people doing the same thing.
Having been a professional home automation contractor for many years that works in very expensive homes and specializes in tough wire retrofits, I can tell you that I only use a magnet and Franklin sensor to determine where to drill for TV's etc and have never significantly damaged anything.. There are very few instances in a TV wall mount scenario that would have significant concerns about hitting pipes and wiring. Bath and kitchen walls etc being the biggest concern... If you drill and hit anything in an area that you aren't expecting after drilling drywall you simply stop drilling immediately. Drywall is very soft and pipes are not. Electrical cabling should be attached to studs except for where it crosses stud bays and typically crosses far lower than pictures or TV's etc would mount
I bought a Franklin stud finder but was disappointed to find it was defeated by the foil backed insulation in the wall. Endoscopes can be a bit disorienting, and obviously don’t work if there is insulation back there, but occasionally allow wonders, especially when fishing.
I had to screw down squeaking floors in a flat. I hadn't seen this video at that time, but I bought this exact endoscope and I'm so glad I did. My modus operandi was to get an eighth drill bit and set the depth stop on the drill to the floor panel depth (the floor is made from 6 x 4 panels of plywood, not floorboards, so can't be lifted). Once I had a hole I then inserted a stiff wire and felt around. If all clear, I then drilled the hole to 22mm width (just for better clearance) and inserted the endoscope. As it turned out, the central heating pipes (in pairs, one in and one out) were running through channels chiselled out of the tops of the joists! One of my eighth holes ended up between two pipes - a close call if not for the depth stop. The endoscope allowed me to see the exact layout in each room. If I'd done it blind or with a detector (tried that - didn't work), I'd have eventually screwed into a joist just where a channel was cut. Afterwards I covered the 22mm holes with metal plates screwed into the floor - it's all under carpet, so never seen. You'd think they'd have put holes for the pipes through the centres of the joists to protect them instead of cutting channels on top of the joists right at floor level, but there is no accounting for dumbness.
One of the simplest and safest ways to prevent electrocution - underrated comment. If you're not sure whether there are live cables, simply turn off the main power. Similarly, if you're not sure whether you might hit plumbing, turn off the supply at the stopcock, open the taps and flush the toilet until it all runs dry. You might still hit the pipe and rupture it, but at least you won't have a minor flood on your hands.
When I use drywall anchors even the cork screw type that self drill, I drill a hole just far enough to get through the drywall then poke the drillbit back there to see if anything is behind the wall. The drywall anchor then goes in the drywall straight. I had a homeowner wants used one of the cell drilling anchors and drill right into her pex line
Yeah, will be picking an endoscope up soon for an upcoming project. Found out the hard way that most of the water pipes are plastic, not metal in this house. Worse, in a wall with no attached plumbing, they put 4 waters pipes right near stud, and against drywall. (One horizontal passing through, two one one side, one on the other. And of course they were at ideal height for picture/shelf hanging. Cannot assume there are no pipes just because there is no plumbing visible.
I learned to use a heavy magnet to find the drywall screws. Once found I start measuring 16" O.C. and it avoids the problem of hitting wires, and other utilities.
A couple of things here. First of all, using a scope like this is not very representative of real world conditions because your wall is open. When the wall is closed, its going to be harder to see. Second, you can get a set of "drill stops", which are small round collars for the drill bit that you put on with an allen wrench. The best rule is that you can only rely on finding a stud, and assume that there is a wire or pipe at the halfway point in the stud. Treat the cavity between the studs as a no-mans land until you verify it with a scope. Finally, get good at patching small holes. Sometimes the best probe is just a small nail, which can tell you absolutely if there is a stud back there or not, and is easily patched. Finally, they sell cable finders that will detect 60hz wires, you listen for the noise. Have I drilled through a wire? Hells ya. Live stove wire (220v). The real danger was I was on a ladder and fell off in surprise. Had to open the wall and replace the wire. My most interesting use of a scope? I dropped a bolt into a car engine and it was sitting on the pan under the engine. I used a scope to find it and pull it out with a magnet part grabber. It was true surgery: I had to put the part grabber exactly to where the bolt was, so had the scope watching the bolt while I fished around with the grabber.
You do know there is a damn light on the end of it right? So yeah it’s exactly the same as it would be real world. Also a nail won’t detect electric. You missed the whole point. And never have used a scope.
@@brandontyree2230scope is better for plumbing or Micky mouse wiring. Just use short screws, stud finder, cut window, re install and patch. Endoscopic camera for this stuff is like a robotic surgery for a sliver.
Another important, common-sense aspect to this work is understanding that wall's role in the construction of the house - is it interior-backed or exterior-backed (could have insulation in it)? What's on the back side? something with plumbing involved? same for the room upstairs - could be a bathroom which might mean plumbing in the wall (water or waste pipe). Check in the room below/basement. I had a tv job with a 24" wide metal air duct in the wall right where the customer wanted his tv. I was getting weird readings on the stud finder, finally resorted to test holes every half inch which still resulted in weird things. Had I gone to the basement/mechanical room I might have seen the duct work. I had to make a brace that spanned the space and mount my wall bracket to that (actually the job I'm most proud of) plus patch and paint a whole bunch of itty bitty holes! LOL.
I have seen that endoscope before and could not think of why I needed it. However I do stuff like this in my home all the time and I struggle looking into walls with a headlamp or pushing my phone's camera lens in the wall, I even shoved a Nest camera into the ceiling the other day! Thanks for showing me why I need this! I clicked your affiliate link to order!
Thank you so much! This is truly an affordable and game changing device! I will go over another option but cost a bit more to see if it will work as well ad this endoscope. Please stay tuned! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you so much. I was stressing over if I might have hit something by mounting my TV mount. I am going to use the camera to check if I have actually hit something.
This is educational. I have a new house and want to mount a few things but i am so paranoid about hitting a wire or pipe. My studfinder has a wire detector but now i know it may not be perfect.
These endoscopes can be useful. It's really easy to become disoriented though. Inside of real walls are pitch black, thick particles floating everywhere and sometimes spider webbs. Even with the light on the end, it can be hard to clearly tell what you're looking at. The older the home, the worse the inside of the wall is. Try to get another light shining into the cavity you're looking into. Will help you stay oriented and see farther.
Totally agree, I returned my M12 inspection camera because the resolution was so low and the light wasn’t too bright. Not to mention if you have insulation in the wall, makes it practically useless
100% agree. Closed wall, you can’t see anything, especially if with insulation. Video is very misleading. His “demo” wall is practically lit for a video shoot, no pun intended. Close that wall up, remove the external lighting and then see how practical this is.
I would think it would help if the stiff cable on the endoscope had a simple color strip, as long as you don't overbend it, you could stay orientated with which way is up.
Very good to broach this topic. This has been a concern of mine for years, having drilled many holes for varied purposes. Many a gamble even using quite a few of the tips mentioned in comments. Discussing this can only develop tradeskill. Dismissing this doesn't. A thoughtful approach would consider the wall type and location of holes in relation to potential wires and utilities. Also understanding that things inside a wall (including the framing which may be highly creative and NOT 16" on center) can be far from code. Ultimately the greater the potential risk the higher the need to actually see what is in the wall (especially if you ARE drilling into a wet wall). One loft I installed had multiple wall types and I carefully removed strips of the interior finish to see what was in the walls and locate dead center of the studs for exactly centering attachment. Guessing was not a good option. The removed finish was later covered by ledgers. That was ONE case. I remember one wall in a large remodel that was so full of pipes and wires that the first person to put a screw into a stud would have a high potential for hitting something. In new construction I think there should be (and sometimes is) a photographic record of every wall before the finish. This can allow locating covered receptacles. Anyways a great topic to post that I have not seen anybody else do except those selling a tool.
in addition to using stud and AC finders and getting a sense of the layout of everything, i always drill slowly through drywall so that I can stop the moment I break through the drywall. I then probe with a smaller bit and take a look with a flashlight. depending on the size of the hole you could use one of those endoscopes too.
Haha paused right when you said especially on older houses. My place was built in 80 something and I doubt they used those metal plates cuz they wood glued the cabinets to a plastic countertop. Nothing is straight! There isn’t a single 90 degree corner in my house
This is one of the most useful tips I've come across for DIY. I should have known these endoscopes exist but I feel like they're not widely advertised. Going to buy one right now. Thanks for making this video!
Make 1”hole near work area using a pumpkin cut leaving the sheet rock paper on one side. Shine some light in and use an endoscope. Reposition the cut piece with ca or wood glue.
The only problem I could foresee with that is that, in order for the drill bit to detect voltage, it would likely need to be close enough to make the circuit. Unless it can detect it at a sufficient distance and _instantly_ cut out the drill before making contact (i.e. not being reliant on human reaction time), I suspect that by the time it beeps to warn you, it's already too late.
You're right the Zircon "Stud Finder" can't even find studs half the time and the other half you can't tell what it's finding. I use the CH Hanson. Magnets don't lie but you need to know what you're doing. The endoscope is challenged with insulation on outside walls but still can give you more information than anything else. On inside walls I've used the endoscope fairly successfully after my vertigo goes away from viewing the screen. Adding other lights as other people mention helps a lot. Once again it helps if you know what could be behind the drywall. In any event thanks for the video.
This might be fine for inside with drywall but hanging things from the out side is harder because your dealing with thick OSB or plywood. Not only that from what I’ve been dealing with on a house is that who ever wired house didn’t use any plates to protect wire and in some spots the wire was routed on the outer edge of the 2x4 and against the OSB and some places not tacked down thus loose wires hitting the OSB. I almost hit the wire with my saw crazy .PS this was a custom home build what a nightmare.
My house was built in 1957. Stud finders don't help me at all. When you're trying to find a stud behind a lath and plaster wall which was covered with paneling you're pretty much on your own.
U can use a magnet to find the nailing lines along the studs. Try to see if you can find a pattern. Modern houses run studs at 16” on centre, I found in my house the studs for the plaster and lathe walls are 13” oc
@@illestofdemall13 Fair point, but in my area we mainly use metal lath for exterior stucco and roofing. Luckily haven't come across any on interior here. Though I know it does/can be used indoor.
@@onua1522 Yeah I was mainly saying that because the commenter above your comment mentioned having a 1957 house with lath and plaster. The lath used to be wood but that was in the 1800s and early 1900s.
Thanks for this demo of the pipes and wires! I tried using stud finder but got multiple electric symbols here and there so I couldn't drill in fear of hitting wire. Good thing I had punched a hole (fist size) near where I was going to drill. Ended up using my phone to record and saw that there was only one wire running on the side of the drywall and not directly in front of it. This video helped a lot, will be buying that little camera thanks!
I have always just drilled and didn't give it a second thought. What happens if I hit wires? Is that bad? I was installing a new doorbell and drilled pilot holes into the stucco on the outside. Now I'm scared to finish! Thanks for the detailed video. Very informative for someone that just does things without considering the "what if's!"
My understanding is that, if you hit a live electrical cable with a metal drill bit, there is a significant risk of you suffering an electric shock. Even just a minor jolt could make you fall off your ladder, or the shock itself could result in serious injury or death. If you hit a pipe, then you are likely to end up with a plumbing emergency, as water will start gushing out of the hole and flooding inside your walls. As someone else mentioned, safest way is to turn off the main power so there's no current flowing through those wires, and I'd suggest turning the water off at the main as well, if you're drilling anywhere there's likely to be plumbing.
Excellent instructional video on the hazards of drilling holes/using screws in an interior wall. Was it perfect in describing every situation that might exist, like many comments pointed out? No, but you would have been here all day and covered most of the basics except maybe mentioning insulation on an exterior wall. You can easily poke a hole through it to get the endoscope in without using a drill. It's a damn good video IMO and you did a great job in taking the viewer through it. You're very good at this. Subscribed!
I agree with the comments about it being impractical if there is insulation in the wall which is often the case. One good use might be for leaks in a new shower or tub installation regarding the drainage pipe. This could save the installer a ton of $ and headaches if they have to come back months, or years later because of all the damage a slow drip can cause.
Based on what I have seen as I have made various improvements, changes and what not to my house - that is, as far as I am concerned, a 100% absolutely realistic mockup of what could be behind a wall. Except that all your wire is the same gauge, but that's a different story.
I think that stud finder was working. I think it checks at that little V notch at the top and you weren't running that part over the wire in the wall. It makes sense, since you want to know if there's electrical where you're planning on driving your screw.
Ptraps for your washing machine drain are in the wall. This guy mocked up a thin tubular ptrap in the wall which you shouldn't do and it's also backwards.
One of the simpler methods as well is using a self drilling *plastic* wall anchor. It’s not electrically conductive, its tip is blunt enough to only go Through drywall and you can retract it by going in reverse on your drill/driver to look inside or insert the endoscope. Genera rule of thumb is to treat every wall like a blind monkey built the thing and expect nothing to be where it should be. PVC plumbing is the most nefarious by far as sometimes it might show as a “stud” on the finder and you’ll think “oh it’s all good”. Hence the plastic self drilling wall anchor. You’ll hit the pipe but not go through. Truly one of the safest ways aside from spending a few thousand on a tool Bosch makes that literally sees through the wall and gives a 3D representation on the screen you’re holding.
I removed the vanity light of my bathroom to install a new light as I was drilling on the wall I hit something hard and me not knowing(first time d.i.y) kept going and I believe I drilled through a metal plate. After watching your video now I know why they have metal plates in between walls, my question is how would I know if I did some damage to pipes,wires etc. So far no sign of damage to pipes or wires. TIA
Check above the ceiling, and on the other side of the wall for any devices. Use a strong magnet to find studs even if they are wood studs it will find nails. Then when you think you're safe use a long control screw driver to stab in the wall to see if you feel anything like wires or plumbing... This will give you only a tiny hole to patch if the location isn't good...
This week I've used mine endoscope to find a horizontal stud. Mine have a 2nd camera on the side, which is verry useful. The front camera is not too practical when you need to go further inside the wall.
Any recommendations for an endoscope that doesn’t require an app membership? Lots of times these types of companies only last a few years and then you have a piece of equipment you can’t use.
If you could look through that drill hole and see the opposing panel and nothing between, should that give you confidence that it's okay to anchor there?
To be honest we usually want to know where the studs are to hang stuff and if that was accurate - that would be great. I think that a worry might be that someone staples a live wire up the side of a 2 x 4 and you drill off center on the stud. I have one of those long stud finder like you have here - I usually measure as I find the stud and see how far apart the studs are to make sure it's not a pipe.
just use the correct screw length so only 3/4" to 1" of the screw goes into the stud. they you will never hit anything passing through or stapled to the center of a stud.
if you had the paint to do it and some dry wall screws why not look for recepticals or switches and use stud finder to find the middle of the stud cut straight down then across to the next studs middle and take a big rectangle section out do what you need to do then put it back and drywall screw it in and mud around it and paint over?
i believe in code it allows the hole to be like 1/4 inch past the front of the stud as long as i think there is a nail plate. but then again thats assuming it was an electrician who drilled the hole. that inch and half screw may peirce the wire regardless if the center hole is too close to the edge
I got a $60+ Franklin and it kept showing live wires and my voltage tester literally went off over the entire wall (but not the outlet). The other side of the wall is my converted garage/attic that was done super sketchy before I got the house so while drilling a hole wasn't my first choice I had three endoscopes I bought a few months ago so it gave me complete peace of mind. I also found a fire block so that may have been why the tester was freaking out. I also had fun using a magnet to verify where the studs where.
My home was built in 1941.. theres just no telling what's what inside any wall. Ive never felt nervous doing anything until I moved into this home 🤣 Now I double and triple guess everything and procrastinate a lot more about doing anything.
the costco stud finder detects all items behind a wall 1.5 inch deep with full batteries and can detect up to 8 inch wide studs. another trick is avoid 18 inch from floor or 6 ft high this is the 2 common home runs for wire. plumbing is the scariest a wire will short and trip no big deal hit water supply or waste and you can have a huge problem before you discover you have a problem. the best tool in the world is a little expensive but turns your cell phone into a thermal and radar sensor and you can see shapes sizes. its like looking through a military scope at your enemies on the other side of a brick wall and can scan 6 inch deep. sorry apple not for you in the walabot almost $120 but if money is not a concern you can use the flir 1 for android or IOS almost $400
My Zircon StudSensor e50 indicates electric wires everywhere, every inch or less in every direction on every drywall covered wall. I know there are not electric wires everywhere. I also have a noncontact voltage detector on the end of my eTEK multimeter. It also detects live voltage everywhere. Even on hollow doors and on bookshelves.
Find your studs, rent a drywall saw or use a razor blade(olfa), mark stud to stud and height of top and bottom of window. cut and try to keep back and front paper faces in tact. Pry a corner, and pull the drywall gently off the wall. You can see between studs whether 16,32,48,64,80 inches wide and however tall you like. If you are patient and ensure you cut the front paper, gyproc, and if possible back paper it will fall right out and if your half on the studs you can reuse the piece, mud, and paint and it wont be seen. You can also scab a backing on all sides or block between studs and make it sold. You do not need a camera.
I don't have electronic stud finders, but I do have a magnet stud finder that supposedly attracted to the drywall nails. Works really well so far. As long as I don't drive any nail/screw farther than what a drywall nail goes, it should be pretty okay.
If I don't have the camera and I don't want to buy one, could I not just drill through the drywall in the intended place where the mounting bolt is going, and then drill 1/16 to 1/8th inch at a time and then look inside the hole with a flashlight and see if there is a cavity where romex or pipe may be running through?
Sometimes, destroying the junction box is a way in. Find the ears on the box, and saw them off. You can really see what is going on with the camera or flashlight. Use an old work box that grips the drywall to put it back together.
As a pro, this is what i do. I use a high powered bar magent as a stud finder. It is 100% reliable. it finds the drywall screws. Then for screwing I use the proper length screw so only 3/4" to 1" of the screw goes into the stud. That way, even if something is running through the center of the stud, you will not hit it. Will also save you if you miss drilling into the center of the stud and are drilling on the side of it where a wire or supply pipe is running down the stud in the middle, you also wont hit it because the screw isnt long enough. Small things going through the stud like wires and supply plumbing pipes are impossible to hit as long as they are in the center of the wall. Its only possible to hit something with large diameter like a drain pipe. So in the 1 out of 1000 times you do, just cut open the wall and fix it, no biggie.
Much easier to understand building regulations. You would know not to drill inline with an electrical accessory or within 150mm of the borders of a room. Job done.
Nail plates will save the day. A company that I hired installed Smart siding on my house, and hit a wire instead of stopping to fix the problem they continued. Well long story short it cost them $900.00 for the electrician to fix the problem. It's an old house and they assumed the hole in the stud was drilled dead center. It was not. Ouch!
I have a Bosch professional stud finder. It's ok and it self calibrates. It can be quite sensitive damp walls and PIR insulation you may aswel forget about using it. I have located pierced wires with drywall screws after plaster has already been done. It's close enough
I use a slightly older version of the studs/electrical finder that he mentions in the video and I’m a little scared ha ha, I may have to go look for the Bosch, I’m sure it’s pricey but I’ve noticed that pricey and more features seem to go hand-in-hand.
Do you think with the dense layer of insulation the camera will still work to detect these items especially the wires as they are comparatively thin and will move with the insulation. TIA
While I'm sure many wouldn't like it, I feel many walls should have a generic french cleat either installed atop the drywall or recessed. When the house is built. The amount piece of mind there would be to not have to buy a proprietary attachment and be able to hang nearly anything, within reason.. would be ideal.
Those cameras are very common in plumbing trying to find exactly where your mainline clog is. Inside walls sometimes you are going to have insulation. Bottom line is without cutting out the drywall you really have no idea what's behind the wall and should be very careful. That being said accidents do happen.
Good video but why do you have to sign up for the endoscope app? I presume you're not talking about having a google account to download it. But connect devices to their services.
Get a Walabot - expensive, but worth it. I was trying to hang something on my ceiling, I passed over the supposed studs many times with my Zircon. As usual, I would get unreliable results. I gave up and just went for it. When I drilled, I hit a big goose egg. I was fed up. I bought the Walabot, got reliable results, and hung everything in 5 minutes. I will never go back.
I can see lots of points and comments below, some helpful and some just rude :chuckles: So I thought I would add my helpful and rude tuppence from the other side of the Atlantic ... build your walls with brick, not this stud nonsense! Then your only worry is finding the mains wiring but that should have been laid out in the logical ways from the sockets, with most of it either at the bottom or the top of the wall running parallel ... of course *should* is not the same as *is* :D A problem that can arise with the wire and pipe finding gizmos is that modern re-plastering methods sometimes make use of that wire mesh as a substrate and that can lead to situations where the whole wall can show up as a wire :lol: I have heard that some plaster mixes can give trouble with false positive readings too but I don't know if that is true.
Hi, I am trying to run a wire to the panel, and the outside wall is stucco, how can I safely run the fishing rod from the attic to back of the panel? Thanks,
Your video it s just came out right on time. yesterday I tried to do some holes in the wall and I have to stop because I found that something wasn't right.
Soo I bought three stud finders all are cheap but the best I can buy in my town. They don’t help me. There is so much behind my wall that I’m unaware of. I have used all the techniques to find them. They aren’t spaced 16 or 24, the screws I found in the wall are spaced 24 at one point and the. About an inches to the right of but vertically about two feet higher from that screw is another screw. This happens twice. I drill and nail three to five holes under that screw points and can’t find any studs! It’s like double drywall but then it just gives into nothing. The stud finder goes crazy!!! Like it won’t stay consistent which is the problem. I have held it the right way without adding interference to mess it up and it’ll still say there’s a 3x3 square of studs and then it’ll disappear or change location! But it’s saying it’s solid and that’s after 20 tries of slowly passing and calibrating at points on my wall that won’t show a stud to begin with. And then I got about three inches to the right of all this nonsense and I find an effing stud which isn’t close to 24 or 16 away from the two vertical sets of screws!!! I gave up and assumed I hit a stud and the shelf is holding strong enough to not move with I try to wiggle it. I hope I didn’t break a pipe
I know this is quite an old video, but most of those stud finders require you to hold them in place for a short period of time while it's turning on and calibrating. If you just turn on and immediately start moving it's going to calibrate improperly and may not even pick up the fact that studs are there. Hold it in place, turn it on, wait until it loads fully, then start moving it.
My zircon has detected wires and pipes far away from the wall and mine has even fewer features than yours.mine just gives me a ⚠️ for any kind of metal. So i think you were either going too fast or turning the device on too close to the wires OR yours might be faulty because mine works just fine.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Them stud finder will get you in trouble mine has showed studs and it’s a bunch of wires
I agree! I’ve come to some close calls relying on the stud finders. Their good products, but don’t put your full faith in them 🙏🏽😅
@@FixThisHouse I bought that same stud finder a few days ago and sometimes all the lights come on when I put it on the wall and then I take it off the wall and put it back on the wall to the same spot and get no lights, those things are very questionable about their reliability,, but better than not having one at all.
@@tremarrimorris75 the trick is most or nearly all stud finders need pre calibration this is using your stud finder to find a stud may be false or true find but the calibration happens when you think you have an area with no stud count 2 or 3 seconds then move your finder to the direction your try to find as it has calibrated if it cant find anything moving to an area with something....
if finder labels wires as stud that unfortunate but its the most accuracy a finder can have if you calibrate it.
Magnets never lie!!!
my favorite thing to do is pair digital with magnetic.
lot of times i will use my digital to find stud. then i will use a magnet and go up or down till i find a screw head then i use another magnet to find one above or below then i measure 16 inches left and or right and do small circles till i find a screw from here you should see a pattern and it can give you an imaginary xray vision.
this often helps you avoid cutting into nail or screws to dull blades as well as the may creative reasons why you might want to grid your walls.
That's surprising how bad the non contact voltage detection was. I have a cheap IR thermometer that has a NCV detector in it and it is pretty reliable at several inches away and through drywall.
Get the Craftsman, shows wires
My house was built 20 years ago and we took pictures of all the walls prior to sheet rock being placed. Sure helps in many ways
I'm envious. We didn't do that! It's like playing Russian roulette every time we nail or drill something into our walls.
I did this but I was not great about taking pics. I often refer to the pics but are never enough. So if you're building, take MANY pics. Both whole walls and close up shots of wiring, piping, ducting, etc.
So smart. Every builder should do this. Especially now, given the costs associated with housing. At least, give us some pictures of what's inside the walls.
Thanks! Wonderful tip! It should be standard by builders to do this and pass it on to owners and so on when it changes hands.Of course over time changes would have been made but still a big help.
Wow. Thanks for the idea for when I buy a house?! 😃👍
This takes the fun out of playing roulette with the plumbing and wiring.
I'm dying lol
I cut thru a gas pipe whist try to extend a patress box for a double electrical socket. It was covered with plaster, I thought it was just the dot and dab plaster 😢
I’ve owned a few new homes over the years and my wife and I would always head over to the site to see the progress of the build. While there I would walk around the interior before the drywall was put up and take pictures of the walls and ceiling…..lots of pictures. Whenever I need to figure out what’s behind the wall I wish to work on I would open up my house file and take a look. And yes I know owners are not supposed to be inside the house while it’s under construction but we’d go on weekends…..usually a Sunday when no workers were present and just take a peak. It was always exciting. We’d see other people doing the same thing.
Having been a professional home automation contractor for many years that works in very expensive homes and specializes in tough wire retrofits, I can tell you that I only use a magnet and Franklin sensor to determine where to drill for TV's etc and have never significantly damaged anything.. There are very few instances in a TV wall mount scenario that would have significant concerns about hitting pipes and wiring. Bath and kitchen walls etc being the biggest concern... If you drill and hit anything in an area that you aren't expecting after drilling drywall you simply stop drilling immediately. Drywall is very soft and pipes are not. Electrical cabling should be attached to studs except for where it crosses stud bays and typically crosses far lower than pictures or TV's etc would mount
The Franklin sensor is also my top choice for finding studs.
I bought a Franklin stud finder but was disappointed to find it was defeated by the foil backed insulation in the wall.
Endoscopes can be a bit disorienting, and obviously don’t work if there is insulation back there, but occasionally allow wonders, especially when fishing.
Many assumptions.
Hi, In my brand new house 2 times the electrical contractor damage the wire. Nail thorough the wire.
I just bought some magnets after watching another review from a master carpenter.
I had to screw down squeaking floors in a flat. I hadn't seen this video at that time, but I bought this exact endoscope and I'm so glad I did. My modus operandi was to get an eighth drill bit and set the depth stop on the drill to the floor panel depth (the floor is made from 6 x 4 panels of plywood, not floorboards, so can't be lifted). Once I had a hole I then inserted a stiff wire and felt around. If all clear, I then drilled the hole to 22mm width (just for better clearance) and inserted the endoscope. As it turned out, the central heating pipes (in pairs, one in and one out) were running through channels chiselled out of the tops of the joists! One of my eighth holes ended up between two pipes - a close call if not for the depth stop. The endoscope allowed me to see the exact layout in each room.
If I'd done it blind or with a detector (tried that - didn't work), I'd have eventually screwed into a joist just where a channel was cut. Afterwards I covered the 22mm holes with metal plates screwed into the floor - it's all under carpet, so never seen. You'd think they'd have put holes for the pipes through the centres of the joists to protect them instead of cutting channels on top of the joists right at floor level, but there is no accounting for dumbness.
Good video, an extra recommendation is switching off the breaker of the room to avoid any fatality, if your stud finder is not trustable
One of the simplest and safest ways to prevent electrocution - underrated comment. If you're not sure whether there are live cables, simply turn off the main power. Similarly, if you're not sure whether you might hit plumbing, turn off the supply at the stopcock, open the taps and flush the toilet until it all runs dry. You might still hit the pipe and rupture it, but at least you won't have a minor flood on your hands.
When I use drywall anchors even the cork screw type that self drill, I drill a hole just far enough to get through the drywall then poke the drillbit back there to see if anything is behind the wall. The drywall anchor then goes in the drywall straight. I had a homeowner wants used one of the cell drilling anchors and drill right into her pex line
Now I'm discouraged from drilling my walls.
Yeah, will be picking an endoscope up soon for an upcoming project. Found out the hard way that most of the water pipes are plastic, not metal in this house. Worse, in a wall with no attached plumbing, they put 4 waters pipes right near stud, and against drywall. (One horizontal passing through, two one one side, one on the other. And of course they were at ideal height for picture/shelf hanging.
Cannot assume there are no pipes just because there is no plumbing visible.
I learned to use a heavy magnet to find the drywall screws. Once found I start measuring 16" O.C. and it avoids the problem of hitting wires, and other utilities.
But the drywall screws might not be centered to the stud. You'll need to drill just left and just right of the screw to ensure good position.
A couple of things here. First of all, using a scope like this is not very representative of real world conditions because your wall is open. When the wall is closed, its going to be harder to see. Second, you can get a set of "drill stops", which are small round collars for the drill bit that you put on with an allen wrench. The best rule is that you can only rely on finding a stud, and assume that there is a wire or pipe at the halfway point in the stud. Treat the cavity between the studs as a no-mans land until you verify it with a scope. Finally, get good at patching small holes. Sometimes the best probe is just a small nail, which can tell you absolutely if there is a stud back there or not, and is easily patched. Finally, they sell cable finders that will detect 60hz wires, you listen for the noise.
Have I drilled through a wire? Hells ya. Live stove wire (220v). The real danger was I was on a ladder and fell off in surprise. Had to open the wall and replace the wire.
My most interesting use of a scope? I dropped a bolt into a car engine and it was sitting on the pan under the engine. I used a scope to find it and pull it out with a magnet part grabber. It was true surgery: I had to put the part grabber exactly to where the bolt was, so had the scope watching the bolt while I fished around with the grabber.
Surely it would have been better to be on a fibreglass ladder and then you wouldn't have been grounded?
You do know there is a damn light on the end of it right? So yeah it’s exactly the same as it would be real world. Also a nail won’t detect electric. You missed the whole point. And never have used a scope.
How many fist pumps did you do after finding the bolt?
@@brandontyree2230scope is better for plumbing or Micky mouse wiring. Just use short screws, stud finder, cut window, re install and patch. Endoscopic camera for this stuff is like a robotic surgery for a sliver.
Another important, common-sense aspect to this work is understanding that wall's role in the construction of the house - is it interior-backed or exterior-backed (could have insulation in it)? What's on the back side? something with plumbing involved? same for the room upstairs - could be a bathroom which might mean plumbing in the wall (water or waste pipe). Check in the room below/basement. I had a tv job with a 24" wide metal air duct in the wall right where the customer wanted his tv. I was getting weird readings on the stud finder, finally resorted to test holes every half inch which still resulted in weird things. Had I gone to the basement/mechanical room I might have seen the duct work. I had to make a brace that spanned the space and mount my wall bracket to that (actually the job I'm most proud of) plus patch and paint a whole bunch of itty bitty holes! LOL.
Fully agree, that's what I've concluded too. These cheap endoscopes do take some use to though.
I have seen that endoscope before and could not think of why I needed it. However I do stuff like this in my home all the time and I struggle looking into walls with a headlamp or pushing my phone's camera lens in the wall, I even shoved a Nest camera into the ceiling the other day! Thanks for showing me why I need this! I clicked your affiliate link to order!
Thank you so much! This is truly an affordable and game changing device! I will go over another option but cost a bit more to see if it will work as well ad this endoscope. Please stay tuned! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you so much. I was stressing over if I might have hit something by mounting my TV mount. I am going to use the camera to check if I have actually hit something.
Hand down the best video on this subject in the entire internet. THANK YOU
This is educational. I have a new house and want to mount a few things but i am so paranoid about hitting a wire or pipe. My studfinder has a wire detector but now i know it may not be perfect.
These endoscopes can be useful. It's really easy to become disoriented though. Inside of real walls are pitch black, thick particles floating everywhere and sometimes spider webbs. Even with the light on the end, it can be hard to clearly tell what you're looking at. The older the home, the worse the inside of the wall is. Try to get another light shining into the cavity you're looking into. Will help you stay oriented and see farther.
Thank you for your awesome feedback sir! 🙏🏽😊
Totally agree, I returned my M12 inspection camera because the resolution was so low and the light wasn’t too bright. Not to mention if you have insulation in the wall, makes it practically useless
You definitely need a brighter desk lamp for when you study remedial English.
100% agree. Closed wall, you can’t see anything, especially if with insulation. Video is very misleading. His “demo” wall is practically lit for a video shoot, no pun intended. Close that wall up, remove the external lighting and then see how practical this is.
I would think it would help if the stiff cable on the endoscope had a simple color strip, as long as you don't overbend it, you could stay orientated with which way is up.
Very good to broach this topic. This has been a concern of mine for years, having drilled many holes for varied purposes. Many a gamble even using quite a few of the tips mentioned in comments. Discussing this can only develop tradeskill. Dismissing this doesn't. A thoughtful approach would consider the wall type and location of holes in relation to potential wires and utilities. Also understanding that things inside a wall (including the framing which may be highly creative and NOT 16" on center) can be far from code. Ultimately the greater the potential risk the higher the need to actually see what is in the wall (especially if you ARE drilling into a wet wall). One loft I installed had multiple wall types and I carefully removed strips of the interior finish to see what was in the walls and locate dead center of the studs for exactly centering attachment. Guessing was not a good option. The removed finish was later covered by ledgers. That was ONE case. I remember one wall in a large remodel that was so full of pipes and wires that the first person to put a screw into a stud would have a high potential for hitting something. In new construction I think there should be (and sometimes is) a photographic record of every wall before the finish. This can allow locating covered receptacles. Anyways a great topic to post that I have not seen anybody else do except those selling a tool.
in addition to using stud and AC finders and getting a sense of the layout of everything, i always drill slowly through drywall so that I can stop the moment I break through the drywall. I then probe with a smaller bit and take a look with a flashlight. depending on the size of the hole you could use one of those endoscopes too.
Thats the right way. I do that too. Learned it the hard way. Im a fiber/telecom installer
Haha paused right when you said especially on older houses. My place was built in 80 something and I doubt they used those metal plates cuz they wood glued the cabinets to a plastic countertop. Nothing is straight! There isn’t a single 90 degree corner in my house
This is one of the most useful tips I've come across for DIY. I should have known these endoscopes exist but I feel like they're not widely advertised. Going to buy one right now. Thanks for making this video!
I think this is a great idea, but does the difficulty increase when there is insulation in the walls?
Ehhh not really I sometimes just pull it out and stuff it back in when im done with whatever I'm doing
Make 1”hole near work area using a pumpkin cut leaving the sheet rock paper on one side. Shine some light in and use an endoscope. Reposition the cut piece with ca or wood glue.
How to be careful when drilling holes in walls.
Step 1: drill a hole in wall
exactly my thoughts haha
lmao I can here only to find this comment
They should invent a drill bit add-on that as you drill it detects voltage and warns you before you keep pushing it in.
The only problem I could foresee with that is that, in order for the drill bit to detect voltage, it would likely need to be close enough to make the circuit. Unless it can detect it at a sufficient distance and _instantly_ cut out the drill before making contact (i.e. not being reliant on human reaction time), I suspect that by the time it beeps to warn you, it's already too late.
I really appreciate the demonstration of the devices and will take an extra step on either buying the recommended tool or punch a hole in the wall.
You're right the Zircon "Stud Finder" can't even find studs half the time and the other half you can't tell what it's finding. I use the CH Hanson. Magnets don't lie but you need to know what you're doing. The endoscope is challenged with insulation on outside walls but still can give you more information than anything else. On inside walls I've used the endoscope fairly successfully after my vertigo goes away from viewing the screen. Adding other lights as other people mention helps a lot. Once again it helps if you know what could be behind the drywall. In any event thanks for the video.
This might be fine for inside with drywall but hanging things from the out side is harder because your dealing with thick OSB or plywood.
Not only that from what I’ve been dealing with on a house is that who ever wired house didn’t use any plates to protect wire and in some spots the wire was routed on the outer edge of the 2x4 and against the OSB and some places not tacked down thus loose wires hitting the OSB.
I almost hit the wire with my saw crazy .PS this was a custom home build what a nightmare.
My house was built in 1957. Stud finders don't help me at all. When you're trying to find a stud behind a lath and plaster wall which was covered with paneling you're pretty much on your own.
A trick I learned is using a VERY strong magnet. It will find the nails on the studs.
U can use a magnet to find the nailing lines along the studs. Try to see if you can find a pattern. Modern houses run studs at 16” on centre, I found in my house the studs for the plaster and lathe walls are 13” oc
@@onua1522 Not when a wall is plastered and has metal lath.
@@illestofdemall13 Fair point, but in my area we mainly use metal lath for exterior stucco and roofing. Luckily haven't come across any on interior here. Though I know it does/can be used indoor.
@@onua1522 Yeah I was mainly saying that because the commenter above your comment mentioned having a 1957 house with lath and plaster. The lath used to be wood but that was in the 1800s and early 1900s.
Thanks for this demo of the pipes and wires! I tried using stud finder but got multiple electric symbols here and there so I couldn't drill in fear of hitting wire. Good thing I had punched a hole (fist size) near where I was going to drill. Ended up using my phone to record and saw that there was only one wire running on the side of the drywall and not directly in front of it. This video helped a lot, will be buying that little camera thanks!
Thank you for sharing your experience! Punching method works too! Lol. I’m glad I was able to help! You have a great day Chris! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
I have always just drilled and didn't give it a second thought. What happens if I hit wires? Is that bad? I was installing a new doorbell and drilled pilot holes into the stucco on the outside. Now I'm scared to finish! Thanks for the detailed video. Very informative for someone that just does things without considering the "what if's!"
My understanding is that, if you hit a live electrical cable with a metal drill bit, there is a significant risk of you suffering an electric shock. Even just a minor jolt could make you fall off your ladder, or the shock itself could result in serious injury or death.
If you hit a pipe, then you are likely to end up with a plumbing emergency, as water will start gushing out of the hole and flooding inside your walls.
As someone else mentioned, safest way is to turn off the main power so there's no current flowing through those wires, and I'd suggest turning the water off at the main as well, if you're drilling anywhere there's likely to be plumbing.
To save everyone 15 mins of talking in circles, he just drills a hole and uses a endoscope.
Lol
😅😅😅😅
God bless you!
amen and thank you. painful to get to the punchline.
Also, keep in mind it's cheap on Amazon or Chinese websites, so it's nothing out of this world and is extremely handy in US homes
what an amazing video! I wished this was around years ago. I will definately share this with my grand kids. thankyou and god bless!
Excellent instructional video on the hazards of drilling holes/using screws in an interior wall. Was it perfect in describing every situation that might exist, like many comments pointed out? No, but you would have been here all day and covered most of the basics except maybe mentioning insulation on an exterior wall. You can easily poke a hole through it to get the endoscope in without using a drill. It's a damn good video IMO and you did a great job in taking the viewer through it. You're very good at this. Subscribed!
I agree with the comments about it being impractical if there is insulation in the wall which is often the case. One good use might be for leaks in a new shower or tub installation regarding the drainage pipe. This could save the installer a ton of $ and headaches if they have to come back months, or years later because of all the damage a slow drip can cause.
Based on what I have seen as I have made various improvements, changes and what not to my house - that is, as far as I am concerned, a 100% absolutely realistic mockup of what could be behind a wall. Except that all your wire is the same gauge, but that's a different story.
I think that stud finder was working. I think it checks at that little V notch at the top and you weren't running that part over the wire in the wall. It makes sense, since you want to know if there's electrical where you're planning on driving your screw.
I had the power off when i was demolishing a small section of drywall. A drywall nail had pierced the 2.5mm TPS cable neatly between insulated wires😮
00:34 Don’t let this guy install your home’s plumbing. He will put a p-trap in a wall. 😂🤣😂
😂 you caught me! 🤫
Ptraps for your washing machine drain are in the wall. This guy mocked up a thin tubular ptrap in the wall which you shouldn't do and it's also backwards.
One of the simpler methods as well is using a self drilling *plastic* wall anchor. It’s not electrically conductive, its tip is blunt enough to only go
Through drywall and you can retract it by going in reverse on your drill/driver to look inside or insert the endoscope.
Genera rule of thumb is to treat every wall like a blind monkey built the thing and expect nothing to be where it should be.
PVC plumbing is the most nefarious by far as sometimes it might show as a “stud” on the finder and you’ll think “oh it’s all good”. Hence the plastic self drilling wall anchor. You’ll hit the pipe but not go through.
Truly one of the safest ways aside from spending a few thousand on a tool Bosch makes that literally sees through the wall and gives a 3D representation on the screen you’re holding.
I removed the vanity light of my bathroom to install a new light as I was drilling on the wall I hit something hard and me not knowing(first time d.i.y) kept going and I believe I drilled through a metal plate. After watching your video now I know why they have metal plates in between walls, my question is how would I know if I did some damage to pipes,wires etc. So far no sign of damage to pipes or wires. TIA
Did you ever open it up and check it out?
I did something similar. What did you end up doing?
Check above the ceiling, and on the other side of the wall for any devices. Use a strong magnet to find studs even if they are wood studs it will find nails. Then when you think you're safe use a long control screw driver to stab in the wall to see if you feel anything like wires or plumbing... This will give you only a tiny hole to patch if the location isn't good...
Before you use the endoscope, you need to make sure you prep the cavity thoroughly. NuLutely or mag citrate works best.
LMAO LMAO
These are great videos. I like the examples shown in a clean format
This week I've used mine endoscope to find a horizontal stud. Mine have a 2nd camera on the side, which is verry useful. The front camera is not too practical when you need to go further inside the wall.
Any recommendations for an endoscope that doesn’t require an app membership? Lots of times these types of companies only last a few years and then you have a piece of equipment you can’t use.
You have great trust in that blue tape
An interesting thing about the zircon stud finder that I have with mine at least is that when I held it vertical it can detect ac lines a lot better
If you could look through that drill hole and see the opposing panel and nothing between, should that give you confidence that it's okay to anchor there?
To be honest we usually want to know where the studs are to hang stuff and if that was accurate - that would be great. I think that a worry might be that someone staples a live wire up the side of a 2 x 4 and you drill off center on the stud. I have one of those long stud finder like you have here - I usually measure as I find the stud and see how far apart the studs are to make sure it's not a pipe.
just use the correct screw length so only 3/4" to 1" of the screw goes into the stud. they you will never hit anything passing through or stapled to the center of a stud.
if you had the paint to do it and some dry wall screws why not look for recepticals or switches and use stud finder to find the middle of the stud cut straight down then across to the next studs middle and take a big rectangle section out do what you need to do then put it back and drywall screw it in and mud around it and paint over?
For exterior walls the insulation will hinder the camera’s view. Still, this could be useful for interior walls.
👍🏽😊
i believe in code it allows the hole to be like 1/4 inch past the front of the stud as long as i think there is a nail plate. but then again thats assuming it was an electrician who drilled the hole. that inch and half screw may peirce the wire regardless if the center hole is too close to the edge
Shouldn't you leave it to calibrate a sec before moving it so quickly
The best video about this ever!!
I got a $60+ Franklin and it kept showing live wires and my voltage tester literally went off over the entire wall (but not the outlet). The other side of the wall is my converted garage/attic that was done super sketchy before I got the house so while drilling a hole wasn't my first choice I had three endoscopes I bought a few months ago so it gave me complete peace of mind. I also found a fire block so that may have been why the tester was freaking out. I also had fun using a magnet to verify where the studs where.
My home was built in 1941.. theres just no telling what's what inside any wall.
Ive never felt nervous doing anything until I moved into this home 🤣
Now I double and triple guess everything and procrastinate a lot more about doing anything.
the costco stud finder detects all items behind a wall 1.5 inch deep with full batteries and can detect up to 8 inch wide studs.
another trick is avoid 18 inch from floor or 6 ft high this is the 2 common home runs for wire. plumbing is the scariest a wire will short and trip no big deal hit water supply or waste and you can have a huge problem before you discover you have a problem.
the best tool in the world is a little expensive but turns your cell phone into a thermal and radar sensor and you can see shapes sizes. its like looking through a military scope at your enemies on the other side of a brick wall and can scan 6 inch deep. sorry apple not for you in the walabot almost $120 but if money is not a concern you can use the flir 1 for android or IOS almost $400
Thank you so much for your awesome feedback! 🙏🏽😊
I believe many local big box hardware stores rent those FLIR cameras.
This is part of the reason i use an edge finder. sometimes it will tell me theres an "edge" of a metal pipe but when its 1/2" i know what it is.
Watching from Yosemite Kentucky.
My Zircon StudSensor e50 indicates electric wires everywhere, every inch or less in every direction on every drywall covered wall. I know there are not electric wires everywhere. I also have a noncontact voltage detector on the end of my eTEK multimeter. It also detects live voltage everywhere. Even on hollow doors and on bookshelves.
Find your studs, rent a drywall saw or use a razor blade(olfa), mark stud to stud and height of top and bottom of window. cut and try to keep back and front paper faces in tact. Pry a corner, and pull the drywall gently off the wall. You can see between studs whether 16,32,48,64,80 inches wide and however tall you like. If you are patient and ensure you cut the front paper, gyproc, and if possible back paper it will fall right out and if your half on the studs you can reuse the piece, mud, and paint and it wont be seen. You can also scab a backing on all sides or block between studs and make it sold. You do not need a camera.
I don't have electronic stud finders, but I do have a magnet stud finder that supposedly attracted to the drywall nails. Works really well so far. As long as I don't drive any nail/screw farther than what a drywall nail goes, it should be pretty okay.
If I don't have the camera and I don't want to buy one, could I not just drill through the drywall in the intended place where the mounting bolt is going, and then drill 1/16 to 1/8th inch at a time and then look inside the hole with a flashlight and see if there is a cavity where romex or pipe may be running through?
My wife got me the Wallabot. That thing is a game changer!
I will do a video on it soon. Stay tuned!
My Man, I am definitely going to invest in an endoscope.
6:19 well I think AC stands for "alternating current."
Are those wires "energized?"
Try a Walabot. They seem to work pretty well in most cases. I've picked up pipes and wires that weren't right against the drywall.
Thank you! I just made a video review on that a few days ago. Please check it out when you have time 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
What do you recommend if there's insulation in the walls?
Your content is always on point
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Very nice job good video. Good attention to details. Nice job on the MOCK UP.
Sometimes, destroying the junction box is a way in. Find the ears on the box, and saw them off. You can really see what is going on with the camera or flashlight. Use an old work box that grips the drywall to put it back together.
I use my xray super vision glasses that I got when I was a kid.....
I need me one of those! 😂
As a pro, this is what i do. I use a high powered bar magent as a stud finder. It is 100% reliable. it finds the drywall screws. Then for screwing I use the proper length screw so only 3/4" to 1" of the screw goes into the stud. That way, even if something is running through the center of the stud, you will not hit it. Will also save you if you miss drilling into the center of the stud and are drilling on the side of it where a wire or supply pipe is running down the stud in the middle, you also wont hit it because the screw isnt long enough. Small things going through the stud like wires and supply plumbing pipes are impossible to hit as long as they are in the center of the wall. Its only possible to hit something with large diameter like a drain pipe. So in the 1 out of 1000 times you do, just cut open the wall and fix it, no biggie.
Much easier to understand building regulations. You would know not to drill inline with an electrical accessory or within 150mm of the borders of a room. Job done.
many people live in homes that are very non compliant🥲
Nail plates will save the day. A company that I hired installed Smart siding on my house, and hit a wire instead of stopping to fix the problem they continued. Well long story short it cost them $900.00 for the electrician to fix the problem. It's an old house and they assumed the hole in the stud was drilled dead center. It was not. Ouch!
I have a Bosch professional stud finder. It's ok and it self calibrates. It can be quite sensitive damp walls and PIR insulation you may aswel forget about using it.
I have located pierced wires with drywall screws after plaster has already been done. It's close enough
Thank you for your feedback! I will have to try that stud Finder for myself 👍🏽😊
I use a slightly older version of the studs/electrical finder that he mentions in the video and I’m a little scared ha ha, I may have to go look for the Bosch, I’m sure it’s pricey but I’ve noticed that pricey and more features seem to go hand-in-hand.
Do you think with the dense layer of insulation the camera will still work to detect these items especially the wires as they are comparatively thin and will move with the insulation. TIA
what do you think about moisture meters?
2023 Code now requires metal guards where cables or plumbing is run through wood studs. It prevents screws through pipe or power wires.
Love this video and your teaching. Can you do vid on how to attach to metal studs? my house was built in 1979, all metal studs.
Thank you a much! Ofcourse! Stay tuned 🙏🏽😊
While I'm sure many wouldn't like it, I feel many walls should have a generic french cleat either installed atop the drywall or recessed. When the house is built. The amount piece of mind there would be to not have to buy a proprietary attachment and be able to hang nearly anything, within reason.. would be ideal.
I have one of the expensive zircon. It kinda works. Mainly allot noise.
Those cameras are very common in plumbing trying to find exactly where your mainline clog is. Inside walls sometimes you are going to have insulation. Bottom line is without cutting out the drywall you really have no idea what's behind the wall and should be very careful. That being said accidents do happen.
How does the Studybuddy, or any powerful magnet, figure into this?
Good video but why do you have to sign up for the endoscope app? I presume you're not talking about having a google account to download it. But connect devices to their services.
the foam inside will not scan by wifi wire?
Get a Walabot - expensive, but worth it. I was trying to hang something on my ceiling, I passed over the supposed studs many times with my Zircon. As usual, I would get unreliable results. I gave up and just went for it. When I drilled, I hit a big goose egg. I was fed up. I bought the Walabot, got reliable results, and hung everything in 5 minutes. I will never go back.
I can see lots of points and comments below, some helpful and some just rude :chuckles:
So I thought I would add my helpful and rude tuppence from the other side of the Atlantic ... build your walls with brick, not this stud nonsense! Then your only worry is finding the mains wiring but that should have been laid out in the logical ways from the sockets, with most of it either at the bottom or the top of the wall running parallel ... of course *should* is not the same as *is* :D
A problem that can arise with the wire and pipe finding gizmos is that modern re-plastering methods sometimes make use of that wire mesh as a substrate and that can lead to situations where the whole wall can show up as a wire :lol: I have heard that some plaster mixes can give trouble with false positive readings too but I don't know if that is true.
I use a walabot, can you make a video on it
Hi Jose! I made 2 videos on this, please check them out here: m.ruclips.net/video/akoySWrJ9Is/видео.html#dialog
Hi, I am trying to run a wire to the panel, and the outside wall is stucco, how can I safely run the fishing rod from the attic to back of the panel? Thanks,
Your video it s just came out right on time. yesterday I tried to do some holes in the wall and I have to stop because I found that something wasn't right.
I’m glad I was able to spread awareness and able to help! Stay safe my friend! 🙏🏽😊
Soo I bought three stud finders all are cheap but the best I can buy in my town. They don’t help me. There is so much behind my wall that I’m unaware of. I have used all the techniques to find them. They aren’t spaced 16 or 24, the screws I found in the wall are spaced 24 at one point and the. About an inches to the right of but vertically about two feet higher from that screw is another screw. This happens twice. I drill and nail three to five holes under that screw points and can’t find any studs! It’s like double drywall but then it just gives into nothing. The stud finder goes crazy!!! Like it won’t stay consistent which is the problem. I have held it the right way without adding interference to mess it up and it’ll still say there’s a 3x3 square of studs and then it’ll disappear or change location! But it’s saying it’s solid and that’s after 20 tries of slowly passing and calibrating at points on my wall that won’t show a stud to begin with. And then I got about three inches to the right of all this nonsense and I find an effing stud which isn’t close to 24 or 16 away from the two vertical sets of screws!!! I gave up and assumed I hit a stud and the shelf is holding strong enough to not move with I try to wiggle it. I hope I didn’t break a pipe
Ya but you can’t see thru studs I have a ridgid one it’s only like two feet tho but I’ve done this but still run into studs
I brought stud find that detects wires
I need buy those in bulk cause whole house needs rewired
Have you tried the wallbot, I keep seeing ads for it.
Stay tuned I will be reviewing it soon 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
I know this is quite an old video, but most of those stud finders require you to hold them in place for a short period of time while it's turning on and calibrating. If you just turn on and immediately start moving it's going to calibrate improperly and may not even pick up the fact that studs are there.
Hold it in place, turn it on, wait until it loads fully, then start moving it.
My zircon has detected wires and pipes far away from the wall and mine has even fewer features than yours.mine just gives me a ⚠️ for any kind of metal. So i think you were either going too fast or turning the device on too close to the wires OR yours might be faulty because mine works just fine.