I had the same issue in a 2019 Premier in the bathroom, I just took the toilet out and used a piece of aluminon diamond plate cut using the vinyl floor as a template, chalked the edges and done
That's exactly how it should be done. You can't put a bandage on this type of issue. Adding additional framing underneath will keep the creaking at bay. It's what we are currently doing.
I'm curious as to how much give is in the floor now that you have the 2x4 in there. I noticed on another channel that 2x4 still has a fair amount of flex. Currently when I walk across the trialer it feels like I've had one to many pops! :) I'm about to start the job, so any words of wisdom (could've, should've, would've) before I get going on our rockwood roo would be appreciated. I do plan on going to a vinyl plank and I will use an adhesive on top of the 2x4 before laying down the top layer of plywood. Thanks for the video, takes away the black box of mystery!
Hey Zach, sorry for my late reply. There is a fair amount of give in some areas. I didn’t quite plan it out perfectly. What I would have done different, was to run the 2x4s as long as possible, instead of short boxy frames. I definitely did not achieve a flat level surface. Another issue I ran into was the screws working their way back out of the plywood in a few spots. The planks should make it more solid. Really reinforce the frame and make sure it’s as level as possible.
I’m concerned that the 2x4 structure you installed is not attached to any trailer frame member, apparently just sits on top of the thin plywood underneath. When you walk over this the only thing between you and the ground is thin ply, foam and thin ply.
Exactly, The weight does not distribute equally as I didn’t secure the “new frame” to anything actually sturdy. I have yet to install an actual floor on top of the sub floor but I’m gonna re evaluative the situation. It does still give when walked on but thankfully it is better compared to what it was. Unfortunately there’s only foam, thin plywood and wishful thinking underneath. That metal channel under there could have been utilized somehow I’m sure, however I was worried about the plumbing that is routed through. It could definitely use a metal cross frame welded underneath to help support as there are only a couple beams with no extra cross sectional support. The “trouble” area is directly under the gray tank too so I’m sure that would be a challenge. If the pieces of the “frame” running bow to stern are long as possible, they will Intersect with the existing metal cross members, giving it even more support. I’m curious to see how well it holds up by installing some study plank flooring.
Hey I just looked at a 2013 rockwood RV last night. I spent about a half hour checking it for water damage. There was zero delamination on any of the walls or roof. All the seal looked good and there was no signs of wayer damage on the interior walls by the windows or the top and bottom corners. I did find a spot in the floor, it didn't feel like a soft squishy floor but it felt like there was a dent under the linoleum floor about 3in Wide by 12-18in long. I just don't know what it could be since I looked thoroughly around for other signs of water damage. It wasn't next to the door or the sinks/shower and all the water outlets are on the opposite side. I just am lost and dunno if I should bother considering buying it. The rest of the trailer was very nice and I looked everywhere. Unfortunately I couldn't get a good look under the floor because that model is a 4 seasons and it has a insulated bottom cover underneath the RV. Any ideas what it could be?
Sorry it’s taken so long to reply. I’m not getting these notifications!! There can be metal channels under the floor that house water lines and electrical. Might be what it was.
So I did this exact thing to my camper floor, but I need additional advice. The floor still feels spongy in the areas where there’s just foam and no 2x4s, how do I make the foam areas stronger? Do I need to rip all the foam out and replace with new 2” foam or can I buy like a thin sheet of foam to just place on top of the existing foam and hope that fixes the sponginess? Right now when I walk on the floor it sounds like I’m walking on too of potato chip bags 🤣 crunch crunch crunch.
In my option, the floor will never not be spongy to a degree because of its general construction but that could help make it less spongy. More support. I dont trust foam to pass the vibe check long term though. Mine sounds like I'm walking down the halls of a 180 year old house. Creek Creek Squak.
Yea it was a challenge. Barely any reinforcement on the bottom layer underneath the camper either. I had to go in and redo this job in the video with a different layout and more wood. I used actual pocket holes this time. It’s a shame how poor the quality is.
Thank you for this informative video. My rv floor in some small areas has that spongy feeling when it is stepped on. I was wondering if adding epoxy penetrating sealant would help fix the problem or should I just cut that area and put a new piece of plywood? Also was it hard to cut out the piece? What plywood did you use? And how thick was it?
Thanks you for watching! You’re welcome. They do make this product that you can inject into the floor to fill up the space. Not sure what it’s called. Or where to get it. That might be a better option if it’s just a small area. I wouldn’t recommend regular foam cause it could cause a bubble. It was difficult to cut out how I did it. A circular saw would be best. Just adjust the depth of the blade. I used 1/4 inch plywood. Not the cheap cheap stuff but the mid grade.
I just bought a roll that was similar and poorly slapped it down on the whole floor. I should have got the peel and stick planks. Would have been way easier.
@@brandonj7385 Gotcha. I am having a similar problem on our 2015 Coachmen with the foam but ours was caused by little visitors stealing it for bedding.
Oh no! Sorry to hear about that. Hopefully you can get it squared away. Hate to see how easily these things deteriorate. I did see some options for filing the floor with a special filler to help with the “spongy” effect.
It’s a 2017. It’s was around 500. But that’s before lumber was the price of gold. If you’re wanting to do do something similar, I’d suggest running the 2x4s as long as possible, front to back.. parallel with each other with perpendicular supports scattered between them like you would see on a regular subfloor in a house. I’m gonna have to modify this design cause it’s not holding up well. I still haven’t completed the floor. Gonna put a locking plank it for help distribute the weight.
Thank you for actually showing the process and what you did in order to complete this job.
I had the same issue in a 2019 Premier in the bathroom, I just took the toilet out and used a piece of aluminon diamond plate cut using the vinyl floor as a template, chalked the edges and done
Acetone works great to dissolve foam
Cutting the area first to prevent added area to be exsposed
I drilled 1/2 holes and filled with spray foam. Fixed and way easier.
Damn, i've just weld a steel bar under the floor. 30min with the paint and not destroying your floor
That's exactly how it should be done. You can't put a bandage on this type of issue. Adding additional framing underneath will keep the creaking at bay. It's what we are currently doing.
Love the smell of wood too 💕 Great video
If you don’t stop to sniff the wood, I don’t trust ya. 😂 Thank you!
I'm curious as to how much give is in the floor now that you have the 2x4 in there. I noticed on another channel that 2x4 still has a fair amount of flex. Currently when I walk across the trialer it feels like I've had one to many pops! :)
I'm about to start the job, so any words of wisdom (could've, should've, would've) before I get going on our rockwood roo would be appreciated. I do plan on going to a vinyl plank and I will use an adhesive on top of the 2x4 before laying down the top layer of plywood.
Thanks for the video, takes away the black box of mystery!
Hey Zach, sorry for my late reply. There is a fair amount of give in some areas. I didn’t quite plan it out perfectly. What I would have done different, was to run the 2x4s as long as possible, instead of short boxy frames. I definitely did not achieve a flat level surface. Another issue I ran into was the screws working their way back out of the plywood in a few spots. The planks should make it more solid. Really reinforce the frame and make sure it’s as level as possible.
Good video showing the process. I had to put it on mute for the entire time you were working on the Styrofoam, that Styrofoam sound is horrible
Thank you. It did make a pretty off-putting noise.
@@brandonj7385 Yeah, cutting Styrofoam is like nails on the chalk board to me.
I’m concerned that the 2x4 structure you installed is not attached to any trailer frame member, apparently just sits on top of the thin plywood underneath. When you walk over this the only thing between you and the ground is thin ply, foam and thin ply.
Exactly, The weight does not distribute equally as I didn’t secure the “new frame” to anything actually sturdy. I have yet to install an actual floor on top of the sub floor but I’m gonna re evaluative the situation. It does still give when walked on but thankfully it is better compared to what it was.
Unfortunately there’s only foam, thin plywood and wishful thinking underneath. That metal channel under there could have been utilized somehow I’m sure, however I was worried about the plumbing that is routed through.
It could definitely use a metal cross frame welded underneath to help support as there are only a couple beams with no extra cross sectional support. The “trouble” area is directly under the gray tank too so I’m sure that would be a challenge.
If the pieces of the “frame” running bow to stern are long as possible, they will Intersect with the existing metal cross members, giving it even more support. I’m curious to see how well it holds up by installing some study plank flooring.
Hey I just looked at a 2013 rockwood RV last night. I spent about a half hour checking it for water damage. There was zero delamination on any of the walls or roof. All the seal looked good and there was no signs of wayer damage on the interior walls by the windows or the top and bottom corners. I did find a spot in the floor, it didn't feel like a soft squishy floor but it felt like there was a dent under the linoleum floor about 3in Wide by 12-18in long. I just don't know what it could be since I looked thoroughly around for other signs of water damage. It wasn't next to the door or the sinks/shower and all the water outlets are on the opposite side. I just am lost and dunno if I should bother considering buying it. The rest of the trailer was very nice and I looked everywhere. Unfortunately I couldn't get a good look under the floor because that model is a 4 seasons and it has a insulated bottom cover underneath the RV. Any ideas what it could be?
Sorry it’s taken so long to reply. I’m not getting these notifications!! There can be metal channels under the floor that house water lines and electrical. Might be what it was.
So I did this exact thing to my camper floor, but I need additional advice. The floor still feels spongy in the areas where there’s just foam and no 2x4s, how do I make the foam areas stronger? Do I need to rip all the foam out and replace with new 2” foam or can I buy like a thin sheet of foam to just place on top of the existing foam and hope that fixes the sponginess? Right now when I walk on the floor it sounds like I’m walking on too of potato chip bags 🤣 crunch crunch crunch.
In my option, the floor will never not be spongy to a degree because of its general construction but that could help make it less spongy. More support. I dont trust foam to pass the vibe check long term though. Mine sounds like I'm walking down the halls of a 180 year old house. Creek Creek Squak.
I'm glad Rockwood did away with that flooring technique of using the foam . It's plywood now . Doesn't look like a fun job
Yea it was a challenge. Barely any reinforcement on the bottom layer underneath the camper either. I had to go in and redo this job in the video with a different layout and more wood. I used actual pocket holes this time. It’s a shame how poor the quality is.
Did you attach it to the aluminum frame somehow?
I did not. The metal part seemed to be more of a channel for electical and plumbing than it was a structural part of the frame. I didnt mess with it.
Thank you for this informative video. My rv floor in some small areas has that spongy feeling when it is stepped on.
I was wondering if adding epoxy penetrating sealant would help fix the problem or should I just cut that area and put a new piece of plywood?
Also was it hard to cut out the piece?
What plywood did you use? And how thick was it?
Thanks you for watching! You’re welcome. They do make this product that you can inject into the floor to fill up the space. Not sure what it’s called. Or where to get it. That might be a better option if it’s just a small area. I wouldn’t recommend regular foam cause it could cause a bubble.
It was difficult to cut out how I did it. A circular saw would be best. Just adjust the depth of the blade. I used 1/4 inch plywood. Not the cheap cheap stuff but the mid grade.
Did you have the 5/8 plywood floor like current model Geo Pro & Mini Lites?
No this was 1/4 inch.
What did you do for the linoleum? Did you change your entire floor or find material that matched?
I just bought a roll that was similar and poorly slapped it down on the whole floor. I should have got the peel and stick planks. Would have been way easier.
@@brandonj7385 Gotcha. I am having a similar problem on our 2015 Coachmen with the foam but ours was caused by little visitors stealing it for bedding.
Oh no! Sorry to hear about that. Hopefully you can get it squared away. Hate to see how easily these things deteriorate. I did see some options for filing the floor with a special filler to help with the “spongy” effect.
Is the top layer marine grade plywood too or just the bottom under the styrofoam?
Just the bottom. I used a regular mid grade 1/4 inch plywood from Lowe’s. The cheap stuff isn’t any better than what they used to begin with.
What year is your camper and what were the costs of the repair?
It’s a 2017. It’s was around 500. But that’s before lumber was the price of gold. If you’re wanting to do do something similar, I’d suggest running the 2x4s as long as possible, front to back.. parallel with each other with perpendicular supports scattered between them like you would see on a regular subfloor in a house. I’m gonna have to modify this design cause it’s not holding up well. I still haven’t completed the floor. Gonna put a locking plank it for help distribute the weight.
How much would I pay someone to do what you did? I have your exact tt
Hey, sorry for the super late reply. I don’t get notified of these comments on here. Probably in the ball park of 1300 +.
you’re so hot. thanks for fixing the floor I love you!
Thanks baby. You’re welcome! 🥰