Using the "Promaxx - Tommy" to remove a badly seized subaru rear wheel hub
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2021
- Like every subaru that comes in with a bad wheel bearing, this one was seized too.
We tried all the normal stuff. A slide hammer, air hammer, nothing ever gets these things out.
So we recently picked up the Promaxx Tommy and this thing works great every time.
Check out the video to see it in action! 
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When I did the hubs on my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee I just used my 5 lb slide hammer and it did the job very well
One thing I learned red using this tool is to use it correctly. Your bolts were not contacting the hub, also highly recommended to grease the shit out of the big nut. All that helps to pull it faster hope it helps someone, I've used it on ford's and subarus
Ford Fusion Rear bearings are same way kid. Done hundreds of bearings over my years but never have I had one I couldn't get apart the ol fashioned way, except on this particular car. I literally had to make my own hub buster to remove them both.
When I tried to remove the wheel speed sensor the very tip broke off down in the knuckle. After removing the caliber and bracket , axle nut , rotor and brake shoes , I had a devil of a time removing the 4 hub bolts . Once I removed them , I gave it 2 good whacks with a 3 lb hammer and it feel right off along with the lower portion of the speed sensor . I have a 2005 Legacy wagon . Some of us shade tree mechanics don't have $$ to buy such tools .
Not sure where you're from but up in the northeast where they salt the roads heavily every winter, you literally cannot get them out.
I've worked on cars from some people who live in Florida and vacation here and their where bearings fell out as soon as the bolts are out. I was astonished because none of them have ever not been seized.
Even down south we get some rusty ones from the mountain areas. Boone NC cars are almost as bad as upstate New York cars😁
That looks rust free compared to the one i just did. Removing the wheel speed sensor in one piece seldom works when they get really rusty.
I got mine off with a 5lb hammer and about 15 wacks. You can also: A) buy a new knuckle or B) remove knuckle and press out. Save tons of $$$. I tell people in the rust belt, when you buy a new Subaru, remove the WBs early and use copper AS. Add AS to the wheel speed sensor threads, (copper or metal free type). Water intrusion. And coat the rear WB axle plate. Water intrusion is the enemy for these newer cassette type WBs. Do the same w/ the ball joints when new.
That is good advice. Unfortunately we do these so often, that it doesn't make sense to pull them off and use the press because we would rather not charge our customers more. We spent the money on this tool to be able to knock them out within the allowed book time and still have saved enough time on enough jobs to make our money back.
“Pause it Ed” is my new catch phrase
I was gonna edit that out, but leaving it in is exactly my type of humor lol
You didnt finish. Freeing the hub is only half the problem LOL that dust cover is also seized on. A simple swing of the hammer aint gonna do it. I had to use a hub buster and then also a 12 ton press to push out the hub from dust cover.
Please Did the primary Tommy Really works because some part missing from the video ?
To be honest, it does work very well. You will only get your moneys worth if you are constantly having issues with seized bearings though, because just hooking up the tool takes a bit of time. Once you have it all set up, pulling the bearing out is a breeze. I've adapted it to work on other cars as well.
Hey @NickQuat can anything be damaged by leaving the axle nut on while pulling? I was going to try slide hammer on the hub with some air hammer, but leaving the axle nut on would stop the bearing from separating
I've done that before myself. You can leave the axle nut on, but you have to be careful not to over extend the inner joint of the axle. This shouldn't happen, but with the suspension at full droop, it is possible. Just make sure the abs sensor is removed from the knuckle or it will be broken!
Promaxx recommends leaving the axle nut on keeps the hub together, otherwise your stuck with half the bearing still on. But they have an additional plate for that
Hey just a follow up - I live in Connecticut and did my bearing with this tip and a slide hammer in 2 hours. Super rusty as usual, but tightened the axle but back down hand tight and a 5lb slide hammer took the bearing out in 10 hits or so easily. Just be careful of the tone ring and don’t let it drop once it pops free.
Thank you!
@Nate Fanning you used a slide hammer with the promaxx?
@@General_patton no, just affixed a slide hammer with jaws to the hub (with the axle nut on) and banged it right out! Worked like a charm
Just finished my brother's ....Pull the spindle off and pop that hub out with a few wacks with a 5lb sledge. Save yourself $800 for the tool
Sonetimes that still diesnt work. Ive used a 10lb sledge with 3 foot handle. Still doesnt budge.
Some come out easy. Consider yourself lucky.
In this amount of time you could have the knuckle off and pressed it out on the bearing press.
I am a Subaru Mechanic. If you have done a lot of these you can take the knuckle off quickly and press it out with a shop press. We always replace the backing plate as some models have a tsb anyways on defective backing plates . As mentioned in a previous post we have also sometimes replaced with a new knuckle . I am also interested in the tool however . Thank You!
That's a 800 dollar tool 😢 I thought it will do the job itself