Thanks for the great video ... my suggestion is using nuloc nuts instead of spring washers - because every time you do maintenance and remove the spring washers you technically have to replace the spring washers - more economical to use null nuts instead.
080921/2023h PST 🇺🇸 Thank you again for the brief Part 2 about modification on the Blue Sea device. Appreciate that. Regarding the label, there’s no need to blank the present one. You may carefully use box cutter blade to life a portion of the label, carefully carefully and carefully and then use a blunt small flat edge screwdriver to work around the label, to prying it to dislodge. Good luck there, Sir. About your comment on “over doing” the fasteners, Sir… I beg to disagree, No, you are not over doing. That’s the meticulous and correct way to anchor fasteners. My Dad also does that, I also do that. Thank you again and take care. 73s…
Nice work. Finding great difficulty getting hold of quality 60V 350A continuous load 4 position switches. Even blue sea drop to 32V on their 4 pos switchgear. (For a LIFEPO4 battery pack 48v nom, but 58.4V when fully charged, doesnt make for easy sourcing of switches... any hints would be appreciated). Love the way you spaced the busbar to suit...keeps a lot of tension off the connections.
I did a little looking and could not find a perfect solution. This may work amzn.to/47mWZj2 But you may need to use a different type of switch. Try looking at www.mcmaster.com/products/electrical-controls/manual-switches-1~/ Hope that leads you in the right direction.
I’m really liking this idea. However I’ve heard, and been possibly monetarily incentivized, that melting has been a problem with cheaper fuse holder. So I’m think of using voltage insulators to attach to pieces of bus bar, which would then suspend the bus bar in the air. No base to touch, much less melt.
This system as shown has been in service for almost 2 years now without any problems. No melting. You could make your own insulators. If you look at the electrical panel video ruclips.net/video/AbuQPpMtmug/видео.html you will see the negative bus bar. That bus bar is held away from the panel using a piece cut from a 3/4" HDPE cutting board as an insulator. But for the fuses it was more cost effective and efficient to buy the commercial fuse holders.
Just happened upon this video, nice bus bar, but it concerns me that you used a stainless steel nut to move the bar away from the contact point on the switch. Your contact should be copper to copper. Have you checked your setup for hot spots while it’s under load?
I agree, like metals to like metals is best. But, no problems so far. It is installed in the van now, and been in heavy use. I will be posting an installation video in the future.
Hi Frugal Factor..... Is it ok to connect the end of the positive cable of the solar charge controller to the busbar instead of the end of the positive battery cable? ... And then attach the positive cable of the battery to the other end of the ANL fuse?
Assuming that your system is 12 volts, your 3000 Watt inverter draws 250 Amps at full load, add a safety margin and call it 300 Amps. According to a quick google search the Amp capacity of a copper bus bar is 1.2 times the cross section measured in square millimeters. So, 300/1.2 = 250 mm2. I would look for a bar that was 10x25 mm or 1/2x1”.
Not sure what you mean. I modified the switch so that the on and off are in a different position. You may not need to do this. It depends were you have the bus bar located. This video walks through the electrical system as it is installed in the van. ruclips.net/video/AbuQPpMtmug/видео.html
Addendum to the below , I took the liberty to respond to 2 of your readers about connecting positive Cable and some other. I apologize for overstepping your show. Do forgive. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video ... my suggestion is using nuloc nuts instead of spring washers - because every time you do maintenance and remove the spring washers you technically have to replace the spring washers - more economical to use null nuts instead.
Just drill a hole in the top side of the switch for your cable to go through.
The label will still be correct and a lot less work to do.
080921/2023h PST 🇺🇸 Thank you again for the brief Part 2 about modification on the Blue Sea device. Appreciate that. Regarding the label, there’s no need to blank the present one. You may carefully use box cutter blade to life a portion of the label, carefully carefully and carefully and then use a blunt small flat edge screwdriver to work around the label, to prying it to dislodge. Good luck there, Sir.
About your comment on “over doing” the fasteners, Sir… I beg to disagree, No, you are not over doing. That’s the meticulous and correct way to anchor fasteners. My Dad also does that, I also do that.
Thank you again and take care. 73s…
Nice work. Finding great difficulty getting hold of quality 60V 350A continuous load 4 position switches. Even blue sea drop to 32V on their 4 pos switchgear. (For a LIFEPO4 battery pack 48v nom, but 58.4V when fully charged, doesnt make for easy sourcing of switches... any hints would be appreciated). Love the way you spaced the busbar to suit...keeps a lot of tension off the connections.
I did a little looking and could not find a perfect solution. This may work amzn.to/47mWZj2 But you may need to use a different type of switch. Try looking at www.mcmaster.com/products/electrical-controls/manual-switches-1~/ Hope that leads you in the right direction.
Thanks for the pointer@@FrugalFactor
I’m really liking this idea. However I’ve heard, and been possibly monetarily incentivized, that melting has been a problem with cheaper fuse holder. So I’m think of using voltage insulators to attach to pieces of bus bar, which would then suspend the bus bar in the air. No base to touch, much less melt.
This system as shown has been in service for almost 2 years now without any problems. No melting. You could make your own insulators. If you look at the electrical panel video ruclips.net/video/AbuQPpMtmug/видео.html you will see the negative bus bar. That bus bar is held away from the panel using a piece cut from a 3/4" HDPE cutting board as an insulator. But for the fuses it was more cost effective and efficient to buy the commercial fuse holders.
Just happened upon this video, nice bus bar, but it concerns me that you used a stainless steel nut to move the bar away from the contact point on the switch. Your contact should be copper to copper. Have you checked your setup for hot spots while it’s under load?
I agree, like metals to like metals is best. But, no problems so far. It is installed in the van now, and been in heavy use. I will be posting an installation video in the future.
I have the same concern. Perhaps use a piece of the copper bar as spacer instead of the bolt.
Do I need a special blade and drill bit for cutting/drilling 1/4” copper?
No, a standard bit works. Copper is a soft metal and drills/machines very easily.
where did you buy those copper bars to create bussbars

That link is listed in the video description. Here it is: www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/copper/0-25-x-0-75-copper-rectangle-bar-110-h02/pid/4283
Thanks
Hi Frugal Factor..... Is it ok to connect the end of the positive cable of the solar charge controller to the busbar instead of the end of the positive battery cable? ... And then attach the positive cable of the battery to the other end of the ANL fuse?
I am not sure I follow the logic. I do not want to comment incorrectly. An error in electrical may be dangerous - to equipment and people.
Hello, I have 3000w inverter, what size of bus bar should i use? Thanks
I also have a 3000W inverter (Victron brand). I use the copper bar that is linked in the description of the video.
Assuming that your system is 12 volts, your 3000 Watt inverter draws 250 Amps at full load, add a safety margin and call it 300 Amps. According to a quick google search the Amp capacity of a copper bus bar is 1.2 times the cross section measured in square millimeters. So, 300/1.2 = 250 mm2. I would look for a bar that was 10x25 mm or 1/2x1”.
What’s the end result of the switch?
Not sure what you mean. I modified the switch so that the on and off are in a different position. You may not need to do this. It depends were you have the bus bar located. This video walks through the electrical system as it is installed in the van. ruclips.net/video/AbuQPpMtmug/видео.html
Addendum to the below , I took the liberty to respond to 2 of your readers about connecting positive Cable and some other. I apologize for overstepping your show. Do forgive. Thanks.
Thank YOU
...You could have simply turn the whole switch around and keep the label intact. Again, your brain is trying to make things more complicated....
Actually that is not true. If you held the switch in your hand you would see that the buss bar can not exit from all 4 sides.