Testing 100A Fuses with 100A of current.
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Amazon paid links:
Blue Sea Systems AMI/ MIDI Fuse: amzn.to/3DrGxzs
ANL Fuse: amzn.to/3BDgWTx
Victron Energy MEGA-fuse: amzn.to/3iYjzbc
Erayco 100 Amp Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset: amzn.to/3Dxz7L2
"560 Chinese Ah"
😅😂🤣
there's different types of fuses. fast burn and slow burn (time delay fuse)as far as I know.. fast burns usually trip at their rated current which is good for resistive loads (like a heater, incandescent lights, etc.). They're good for protecting electronics that are sensitive to any currents above their rating.
Time delay fuses will usually run rated current indefinitely and anything above it's rating it can withstand for a certain amount of time (depending on the current and ambient temperature) which is good for inductive loads (like a motor) that need to run a higher peak current during startup. (NOT recommended for use on sensitive electronic equipment)
Time delay fuses are typically only designed to trip during a fault current (or short) or from running over it's rating for extended periods of time.
Thank you. That clarification was needed.
Someone doesn't know how fuses work here... The fuse rating is what the fuse is capable of handling forever. If your 100A fuse breaks at 100A, then it's bad.
The breakout of a fuse is a complex curve of time and current going through it. The purpose of a fuse is mostly to protect the wiring, a cable doesn't heat up instantly, neither is the fuse.
thank you for the information.
I am shocked, that these high-dollar fuses didn't do their job! You have made me rethink some of these products, thanks! It’s a cautionary tale for sure!
Which one(s)?
a 100A fuse isnt suposed to blow at 100A sounds wierd but otherwise if there is any big power surge the fuse will trip so lets say you start an angle grinder on your inverter then it will pull a allot more curent than the inverter is rated for. (constant and thats the key)
The 100amp Fuse that Passed over 200amps for they maybe Rated to 48 volts and some are Rated for up to 240 volt or More and and if you ran there max Voltage with there Max amps it would blow at around 100amps and being more then Likely your Running Low Voltage Like 1.5V - 48 Volts and Yes Amps are the Main Factor but Voltage will add More Heat to the Fuse at the Same amps and I wouldn't want a 100 Amp Fuse Blowing right at 100amps for it will more then Likely be Running Always Hot when Running 90amps and when things go bad enough to go from 90amps to 250amps is Good for most times if your Running 90amps and things do go bad and Need the Fuse to Blow it don't just Draw a Little bit more like 120 Amps it go's to Double or More so from 90 amps to 180 amps or MORE and them 100amp Fuses that Blow at 225+ will Run Cooler Temps and the ones that Blow at 100amps if your running 90 amps they will Blow more often and they will Run Hotter and the Breaker that ran 90 amps was a 1st for a lot of them don't that is a Good one it Seams. for the Video that was very good and Thank you.
The Victron fuses are MEGA type fuses, which are very slow blow by design, regardless of the brand. They should do 125% of rated for nearly 30 minutes before blowing.
Lets not ignore the fact that a 100amp fuse was allowing nearly 250% of its stated rating. You dont have to be a rocket scientist to know this will not end well for many people
@@bobbyfischer6786 It is definitely important to know what you are using. In a lot of cases, you are totally correct, that could end badly. However, I have EV batteries connected to an off grid setup that have a continuous rating of 250A, but a 10s peak rating of 750A. So these fuses do have a purpose.
You buy them based on ANL or ANN.. One is Slow Blow. One is Instant...
In the meantime my car is up in flames, as the main power, going to my amp melted and caught fire.. while patiently waiting for the fuse to blow.. 😂
@@StupidEarthlings so dont fiddle with high current circuits if you dont know what you do. like really know what you do. not youtube sience backed up by bought amazon bullcrappery
You obviously don't know how fuses work. This test is flawed.
You will see a 200%+ trip due to its rating by design. 100amp with 200% 10 second trip rating for example. Many devices have HIGH surge of current momentarily and settles. For this reason, like an AC unit, this is ideal.
Search up each data specs of the fuse and retest on what they were designed to do. 100amp fuse ARE NOT all the same. Solar engineering for nothing....
Properly designed fuses will blow at their rated current after a time period specified in their data sheet. Wether it be a slow blow/fast blow. These are the slow blow type, designed to handle large inrush currents for short periods during startup. You should be comparing these fuses to their data sheets, and how long they last at their rated current.
As other have also pointed out these are the incorrect fuse type anyway for use with lithium due to the way they blow.
What type of fuse do you use with lithium?
Nice to see so much respect and learning here.
Busy setting up 24v solar system for first time and confused about what fuses to use. Also going to install circuit breakers
Thanks for sharing.🙏👍
That was very good to see. I think fuses are rated by current and time - e.g. 100A for x minutes. The time side of the equation is not widely advertised however. Perhaps if you ran the each fuse at 100A until failure then documented the time it took - within practical limits - perhaps 10 minutes? Just a thought.
Yes, fuses fail due to heat. So time is important. Depending on the "certification" will outline how long the fuse should last at the rated capacity.
But chances are none are certified. Hah
@@jamess1787 Correct, but nonetheless the physics of it remains, we just don't know the values...I bet the reason for that is the production variation from fuse to fuse for the same manufacturer, same batch will be huge - like +/- 25%, let alone different batches and different manufacturers.
True but that victron to take a good amount of time over 220 amps to blow is scary. Especially if a person has a cable only rated to take 150 amps thinking the 100 amp fuse will protect it. I understand what your saying about extra time to heat up and blow. But those extra seconds can be crucial especially if you're not around and a fire starts. I always use the cheaper style anl fuses. Bc cost and every pack of 15 I buy I test 2 to be sure of quality. Seems no matter the amp rating they never go over above 5-10 amps before break. Rather be safe and not sorry while being able to get 15 100 amp fuses for $22.
Lithium batteries require a class T fuse, all of the fuses you showed are safety hazards and no manufacturer recommends them
thanks for letting me know, l'll check class T fuses.
@@SolarEngineering yes and please know that AIC, ampere interrupt capacity is extremely important. Also extremely important is with a class T fuse you must use a fast-acting fuse do not use slow blow or delayed fuses, it's extremely important that you understand that. A guy on a boat tested his current passing 13,000 amps through a short, a class t fuse provides 20,000 AIC. Midnight solar has a circuit breaker rated for 10,000 AIC which you're not supposed to use but honestly I would use it
Hey, could you point me to a good source for the requirement for T class fuses? Thanks in advance. I've heard it repeated about the T class but can't find original source for said info.
@@CraigThorne also just to explain why AIC ampere interrupt capacity is important is because let's say you try to use these fuses in the video that are not rated for lithium iron phosphate, what then happens is the fuse will blow and then the current will simply jump The junction negating the entire purpose of the fuse in the first place, I think they call it arcing
@@CraigThorne my other replies keep getting deleted I'm not sure why. Basically what I said is on the samlex pst1500 watt inverter instruction manual it is stated there. Another fact is look up how many amps can lithium iron phosphate push through a short, then compare it to the AIC ampere interrupt capacity rating of the fuses shown in the video. What then happens is called arcing even though the fuse broke it will jump that junction because again of the AIC mismatch. So lithium iron phosphate I have heard was able to push 13,000 amps through before the wires melted on this guy's boat, now look at the AIC rating of these fuses it's like 3,000 or 5,000 amps
Fuses are rated 100A for x amount of minutes... You have fast blow fuses and slow fuses.
You need to see if they hold 100A. And check the specs on the fuses first.
I agree, i size fuses above the max expected current, Im using 300amp 200amp and 100amp ANL. great to see them blow at the rated current. those victron are normally inside their inverters. as max current on mine would be 166amps. and for short time even higher. seems they are doing what you would expect
Great to see someone testing these fuses. The fuse should be able to hold its rated current indefinitely. The time the fuse should take to blow at any current can be see in its time-current curve which should be in the datasheet. E.g. it could take a minute at 200% and a second at 300% rated current. The ANL fuse and the resettable one seem to fail pretty bad here. The biggest concern I have about these fuses is if they are capable to break the short circuit current of the batteries. That can be tens of kA or more. It is even bigger problem with higher voltage batteries (48V). If it can't it will most likely end up in flames and can destroy something else as well. I'm not sure if anyone has the right equipment and is willing to :) test that. The datasheet of the fuse should specify the maximum breaking current and its rated voltage as well.
good points... I like the ANL, i want them to blow, as maximum current, i choose the fuse for higher than the expected current on that circuit,
I'd be keen to see a short circuit test with these fuses as well @ 48v
@@graham121150
I would definitely stay away from ANL fuses! I prefer blue sea
Yet the ANL fuse worked the best by far in reality (as it would have been the only fuse which would have actually protected the wire).
Though I agree with the rest. The second sentence, however, DEFEATS the (purpose) of A fuse....It has to BLOW eventually, unless you want an ACIDIC body.
Awesome video! I'll add that I used to have that exact resettable fuse at 6:15 in the video except it was 200A. I don't use it anymore. The reason is that I did have a shorting incident while working on my LiFePO4 battery. This fuse tripped as it was designed to. However, the fuse contact ended up permanently damaged because of sparking -- see analysis below.
200A is a large amount of current and the resulting the spark on rapid disconnect vaporizes the contact surface metal and oxidizes the contact with black soot and molecularly deposited oxygen molecules. After resetting the fuse, my battery was supplying current normally but would stop supplying any current after a few minutes. I was perplexed.
I later found out the cause was that the fuse now had a 1 million-Ohm resistance! Now, I would tempted to say it is because it is a "cheap Chinese" fuse. But I looked at comments for name-brand resettable fuses on Amazon that cost at least 3x more but they have similar problems.
So unless the fuse has some kind of built-in "soft start" anti-spark resistor or some sacrificial pre-contact engagement connection, this is spark damage is unavoidable unfortunately. Moreover, since this fuse is in an enclosed "ignition inhibited" housing, its impossible to see the damage either. I did a post-mortem tear down on my fuse and, sure enough, I found a black oxidized contact point and tiny bits of metal within the fuse's enclosed body. Outward explosion blast marks were clearly visible.
200A is a lot of current but the same thing would happen at 100A or less. I've seen enormous sparks with just 3s lithium LIPO RC batteries.
I now use a one-time 200A ANL fuse with visible window and I keep spare fuses next to it. I have to add that my ANT BMS with its software controlled MOSFET fuse with soft-start PWM engagement catches almost all problems well enough without any sparking. A software MOSFET based fuse may be the way to go.
Anyone who has touched together the wires coming from a solar array knows that it doesn't take much current to do a TON of damage. DC is a beast!
Thank you for this valuable information. Will toss my resettable fuses..
Wish I'd seen this vid 4 weeks ago.
Especially your comment!!
I'm also one of those twits that purchased one of those waterproof resettable Chinese crap fuses from fleabay (eBay) to use on my 12v camping battery box using a 1500w (3000 peak) inverter.
Using 2 AWG welding cable, the positive cable run is 400mm (16") at the most.
I'll look into the ANL type fuse (behind the clear perspex)
I'm just not sure on the fuse amp rating after watching the vid, any idea?
A link to the fuse?
Thank you in anticipation.
Cheers
Edit: lithium 12v battery
For lilthium batteries recomandation is to use MRBF terminal fuse or even better T-class fuse. They have AIC raiting 10kA and 20kA and more.
I am very happy I stumbled across your comment..I have 4 of these cheap breakers and have been having problems with not enough current passing through to my sub amplifier...I was thinking that maybe it was the breakers but was not 100 percent sure and now I think I know what my problem is!! Will be pulling them out and tossing them in the trash and I bet my 2 month problem I have not been able to figure out will be fixed!!! Looks like I need to buy inline fuses again lol
Where is the молодец button? lol Great video!
thanks
It is an interesting fact that you think a 100A fuse has to break at 100A - since this is different to Europe: In Europe the rated current of a fuse/breaker is the maximum continuous current. Depending on the characteristic of the fuse/breaker (there are several different available) the fuse/breaker should trip at a current of 1.05 to 1.5 times of the rated current, if a breaker has an additional magnetic based short circuit detection this should trigger at 1.5 (circuit breakers in Europe usually have a thermal based over current protection plus a magnetic based short circuit protection). So you have to check what standard the fuse is made for and check against the standard.
The one that can reset does not contain something that will blow (because it would not be a reset-able fuse), it has precisely cut copper core that they measured how much it will heat up, a bi-metal is inserted that bends at this exact temperature, so for you to be able to reset it this bi-metal has to cool down back to "normal operating temperature". This can be proven by using 2 fuses at the exact current, making them blow, and hiding one in a freezer and leaving one in room temperature, one put in freezer you will be able to reset way faster
So in theory these fuses should allow more current in freezing weather, compared with a hot summer day?
Good info . Well done.
Totally pointless test, there are data sheets and ratings for fuses of all kinds.
Here is Victron datasheet: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Midi,-Mega-and-ANL-fuses,-and-fuse-holders-EN.pdf
please tell me what is the proper test would be.
thanks!
The one "waterproof" is not a fuse. It is an automatic circuit breaker with ignition protector. It should allow to pass 100Amps within 1 hour. And more amps you give to it the faster it will switch off. For example it may switch off at 150A after 2 minutes. So I would say it does not work quite correctly switching off at once at 100A exactly. But at least it works.
While fuses must be distroyed at once when they reach 100-110A.
Automatic circuit breakers and destroyable fuses max amps are counted in a different way.
Fuses have a time-current relationship. The Victron may take 20-50 minutes to blow at a bit greater than 100 amps.
Other thing that is important is how much voltage drop across fuse. Resistance changes with temp so fuse series resistance is greater near current limit. Should measure voltage drop at 50%, 100%, and just before blow point. I would expect Victron has the least voltage drop.
Those cheap fast ones rated at about 10% above the maximum surge of the inverter is what I use as a last ditch protection.
Littlefuse has some nice documentation that describes fuse curves for different fuses and what the time vs. current curves should be.
Does not surprise me that the Victron was over engineered, a lot of their stuff is. A fuse is to protect the cable & whatever connects to it from a short circuit which will generally be hundreds of amps surging. The worst type of fuse is the one that blows (in this case) at 100A, none of them should blow until around 120A or more.
This certainly makes you wonder if what is considered high end Victron products are worth buying. If something so basic as a fuse has the potential to cause a fire due to it NOT breaking then I would question the quality of anything else from that company. I was actually going to buy a Victron MPPT controller and a DC to DC charger but I don't think I will now
". Easing current to max in a short interval shows the peak rupture rating, victron inverters have a high peak ability and that is why we use these fuses so the inverter can deliver peak current at times.
When high current is present over a longer period the heat rises and victron fuses blow, that is how they should be tested" Please see the victron inverter spec sheets.... victron can supply over nominal power for some duration of time.
Ive seen others have the same issue with the automatic fuse not locking in again after running 60A! But then never work again...
So it is actually a very low quality.
I LOVED watching this - BRAVO!!!!!!!
Thank You
Glad you enjoyed it!
My worry is if you have 4 or more batteries and an error in one meaning the other 3 dump their load into the broken battery, the fuse pops but then arcs due to the extreme amps causing a fire.
I just bought a couple of 250A mega fuses and was wondering. why my fuses are 2mm width and your victron (8:13) appears wider.
Hmm... I think I bought fake fuses.
DIN standard say, current overload 1,14 times fuse should broke after 1hr and more then 12.5 times - less then 1hr
This is fraud, he is only using 12V battery - cannot sustain arc flash, try 24Vdc or better 48 Vdc
I CAN ONLY IMAGINE THE DAMAGE TOO HOME WHILE YOUR AT WORK ALL BECAUSE OF A FALTEY FUSE INSTEAD OF A 20.00 BREAKER, LIPO BATTERYS EXPLODE, DONT KNOW ABOUT SOME PEOPLE BUT JUST TOO BE ABSOLUTELY SURE FIRE CONTAINED MY STRUCTOR WILL BE CINDER BLOCK METAL ROOF.
is it because Victron equipment is designed with a peak amperage rating which is double than its continuous rating?
Nice test. I’m quite impressed with the thermal cutoff switch breaker!
it is a piece of rubbish. do not use it.
@@ursodermatt8809 - it worked the way I expected, why is it rubbish?
@@DavidHalko
after using them a few times they are not working anymore. get a proper DC breaker, they are not that more expensive.
@@DavidHalko i had the same breakers, after using them as s switch twice, IE i pressed the button to trip them they became useless, the 60 A breaker would flicker at 5 amps load the 100A breaker would become intermittent at 15A load, i changed them for blue sea items and I've had no issues since 🤔
Also, I notice that thetmal breaker have an internal resistance that looses about 1 volt! When your batterie voltage drop down close to the low point trigger of your inverter , it causes the inverter to shutdown prematuraly.
I don't know if you were able to follow up with Vitron but I would not buy that because like you said, it goes way up and beyond the rating. That cam be dangerous.
You need to buy the Right fuses. As they make ANL and ANN Fuses.. Why Circuit Breakers are king...
You need to learn about fuses , a 100A fuse should allow 100A through continuously . Try reading the spec sheet of the fuses they actually tell you how they should operate , some are slow burn some are fast burn and they have different applications. Slow burn fuses will appear like more current passes if the current slowly ramps up as it's based on time had you left it just above 100A for a longer period of time it should have blown.
The blue sea and victron were the only ones that would hold up to continuous inverter duty near their rating as intended.
Victory makes such good electronics even their fuses don't blow lol. Scary. I don't think I've ever seen a fuse that even came with a data sheet and 99.9% of people would assume that the number stamped is the amount of current it will flow, excluding slow blow fuses.
Yes, it is quite sad so many people don't understand how fuses work.
Bullsh!t. Your basic understanding of fuses is flawed. Every MAJOR brand have data sheet. Learn it and get back here.
Great test!!
It confuses me every time with fuses. If you buy a fuse to run an appliance up to 100 amps, you want it to be stable at that current and not blow. If you have an appliance that can only run up to 100 amps and then needs to be protected beyond that, you would need it to blow at 100 amps.
It is also a requirement for a fuse to protect the cable in a short circuit situation (to prevent fire), and not necessarily protect the appliance you are running.
I think these high current fuses are for protecting cabling more so than appliances. It's better to have an appliance destroyed than to have the cable heat up to the point of starting a fire.
On the flip side, sizing the fuse to protect an appliance that is installed with the correct size cable, will always blow the fuse before the appliance is ruined and 'well' before the cable gets hot.
I am a fan of Victron equipment and think that they may have sized the fuse to be able to run at 100 amps. The thickness of the blow bar in the middle, compared to the other fuses, is substantial.
thank you for the info, I need to educate myself more about all types of fuses.
In the school they always highlighted, fuse is not to protect the devices, it is to protect the cabling. Well, I think the smaller in-device fuses are anyway to protect the device too, but mostly to prevent hazardous short sircuit situations to go even worse.
That Victron was really performing terrible! Quite bad flaw for such a reputable company.
@@KenSentMe- Actually Victron fuses probably performed just as they should and they are designed. A fuse should be capable of handling its rated current almost indefinite time. How fast a fuse blows is function of time and current. Small over current and it can take tens of minutes before fuse is blown. As you can see in the video victron fuse did heat up with lower over current. It might have blown with time. Bigger over current did blow it much faster.
I did check couple datasheets for different brand fuses and according all of them a 100A fuse should blow in 5-10second with 200A current and with 100A fuse should hold at least 100second or to be more accurate all the charts stopped at 100s.
Anyway very interesting video I think I have never seen testing of fuses before.
Well done 👍
But now you have me third🤔 am I using the right fuses? 🤷♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
That "Test" shows, that u dont understand, how fuses work - and should work....
Sorry, bad video. Please read Fuse specifications first before making a video. Fuses come in different classes. A, B and C.
A 100 A Fuse must pass 100 A indefinitely. Depending on class, overload, and time it should break.
It’s a shame you didn’t test those cheap red and black “audio” fuses that people seem to love using (because they’re horrible, they have a high failure rate and people need to be made aware of how terrible they are 😆 )
Great video. nothing wrong with the fuse. u need to read it datasheet. some fuse rating at 100A fuse, mean it can handle 100A forever, but blow up at 150% to 300% of it rating in different time (10s - 4h) - time delay fuse. some blow up at it rating - fast blow fuse.
yeah, I need to educate myself more about all types of fuses.
This is incorrect information. All fuses have a hold current of at least their rated amperage at a set ambient temperature usually 50c or so depending. The duration/integral of overcurrent varies depending on how fast or slow the fuse responds but no fuse trips at the rated current. They are guaranteed to pass their rated current indefinitely with margin such that within a few standard deviations no fuse will trip at the rated current.
Photonicinduction (thank god he's back) recently did an awesome video popping giant fuses. He used a huge capacitor bank and since it's just a short pulse, he had to greatly exceed the rating of the fuse to get it to pop.
Love Photon, but Not sure his return was for good.
@@HighTechLab yea he came back for 1 or 2 videos and has disappeared again. 🙁
Looks like you get more amp for your buck when using victron
Русский? Послышалось Три киловатс энерджи) Знакомая речь :D
Victron prob source their fuses from some Chinese OEM like everyone elese, they didnt do proper quality control on the recieving end... But it may be that these are really 250A fuses w the wrong stamping
Victron, loads off advertising but make in India
Could you do one more test with the ANL fuses please? The concern is that they don't break fast enough with very large inrush of current eg 200-300A, or that they weld together? People say to get the more expensive fuses because of this. Would be good to bust that myth
It doesn't matter, anl and any of these other fuses that he's testing are not safety rated for lithium batteries literally he failed to test the one type of fuse thats safety rated for lithium iron phosphate. Please look into it because lifepo4 is actually able to push thousands of amps through your wire when it's shorted depending on the size of the battery bank. Seriously please just look up the info
@@eksine and wich type of fuse is the one that is good for lifepo4 batteries?
@@and7rei the only fuse rated to handle lifepo4 is class T. and please know that AIC, ampere interrupt capacity is extremely important. Also extremely important is with a class T fuse you must use a fast-acting fuse do not use slow blow or delayed fuses, it's extremely important that you understand that. A guy on a boat tested his current passing 13,000 amps through a short, a class t fuse provides 20,000 AIC. Midnight solar has a circuit breaker rated for 10,000 AIC which you're not supposed to use but honestly I would use it
There are many different types of fuses and they all have their appropriate uses. All fuses should be able to handle their full current rating indefinitely. Most manufacturers will have a graph that shows how long it will take the fuse to blow under different loads. That cheap fuse should not have popped bellow or at 100 amps. The resettable ones have a problem with internally overheating and tripping well below their rated current. If you use the resettable type buy from a quality manufacturer.
Haha, the label on your battery box "560 Chinese Ah" ... So, for calculations, I guess it'd be CAh. 😉
haha, yes
Im md israfil hossen medin baingladhes 100amr sarkit odar 10 pic peraic ?
shoulda measured the voltage drop across all of them too. would have been interesting.
Great stuff Be great to see tests on DC breakers non polarised /polarised DIN mount type that are popular
Great test. I need to buy some fuses/circuit breakers so this video came at the right time
Don't even listen to this video, do your own research and realize that a class T fuse is the only type of fuse that's safety rated for lithium iron phosphate. Lithium iron phosphate requires a 20,000 ampere interrupt capacity, yes somebody actually tested on their boat and they were pushing 13,000 amps when their wires shorted, don't take safety as a joke as in this test
The Victron Datasheet on their fuses says nothing about "slow-fuse" See www.victronenergy.de/upload/documents/Datasheet-Midi,-Mega-and-ANL-fuses,-and-fuse-holders-EN.pdf
But their *Wiring Unlimited* application note that covers almost everything about wiring does.
See the table in section *4.4 DC Wiring Fuses & Breakers* Mega = slow, ANL = Fast, etc.
Unfortunately Victron does not seem to provide more explicit instructions on where to use which fuse class (for instance ClassT in the battery box, Mega for branches, etc).
Nor do they seem to have an application note dedicated to Fuses (AIC, rating class, speed class, etc). They should. This misinformed and misleading video is a good example why.
I wonder if that Victron fuse could be a counterfeit?
It would have been interesting to see the voltage drop across the fuse as well during the test.
And it looks like, most commenters do not know, how fuses are usually characterizedl.
It would probably be the best, to chose the fuse, that ensures protection of your equipment, and has the lowest voltage drop / power loss at the same time.
Thanks for sharing this interesting test :-)
None of these fuses are safety rated for the type of lithium batteries he's using so yes I understand what you're saying however this is like using a paper clip because you ran out of fuses. For lithium iron phosphate class T is the only type that any manufacturer would recommend, 20,000 ampere interrupt capacity, IAC. I'm no expert but I at least know that basic fact. lithium iron phosphate when shorted if the bank is large enough and the batteries that we use that are 280 amp hours and such can easily push thousands of amps through them shorted no joke
Looking at the impedance of theses cells, they should easily deliver several thousand amps when shorted. I would also recommend choosig a fuse for the used voltage. The 12V in this test are probably acceptable for all fuses, but in 48V Systems, it is allready a different thing.
@@daskasspatzle2396 no these fuses are actually not acceptable for his application which we know is lifepo4. Some are potential fire hazards
@@daskasspatzle2396 for example this guy used lifepo4 for his boat, he said it shorted with 13,000 amps, none of these would be acceptable. A much lower AIC than acceptable means the spark can jump the fuse break, like a leap frog
I did not mean, that these fuses are acceptable for this application, but another criteria is the system voltage as well.
I was thinking of getting circuit breakers instead of fuses. Fuses work only one time and you have to buy them again, and if you have lots of fuses that is a headache to check which one it is. I was planning on using circuit breakers (dc single pole) between battery and bms rather than fuses to test this. I also was going to put a 100~150Amp DC circuit breaker at the positive for the whole current going to the inverter. If anything goes wrong, I can see specifically which cell, or was it the battery as a whole. It is more expensive, but to me that safety is worth the price.
Fuses are safer and mandated by code in many applications. Breakers have trouble with high energy interruption events and can be 10x the cost for the same safety ratings. I agree though in that I use breakers whenever practicable. Fuses suck. Too bad they're so damn effective!
I only use circuit breakers I don't like buying the same thing over and over that's the definition of insanity lol
Should have tested a 100 amp CQ square d breaker.
😂😂😂 victron engineers lol
I suggest looking up the spec sheets for the fuse types tested. The victron fuse performed to spec. The no-name thermal breaker should not have tripped so early. The no-name ANL fuse with 2 rivets uses a cheap thermoplastic body. Not only did it blow way to early, but those plastic bodies can melt, and even catch fire in some cases.
thank you for the info, if you could help me to locate spec sheets, would appreciate this, I tried to find it, but failed.
what does victron say?
This video was outstanding
thanks :)
Спасибо за обзор, как раз купил на Али такой флажковый, аж на 250А )) но мне он нужен больше как размыкатель цепи .
Thank You! Very interesting to see and verify that a manufacturers fuse actually works.
You're welcome!
Fuses are thermal devices. If you want guaranteed trip current, use a magnetic circuit breaker. A fuse will trip at any combination of time/current on a curve that correlates to the thermal failure of the protection element. That curve extends both far below and above the rated trip current.
Shouldn't last at double the rated current though under any situation for any length of time you'd assume right ?
@@cozzm0AU that depends entirely on what class and timing the fuse has. There are 10a fuses that can pass 30a for an hour, but will pop at 100 in 100mS. There are many thousands of combinations of type and time in the world of fuses.
Most "magnetic circuit breakers" will only trip at much higher current than its rating. For example, a standard US residential 120VAC circuit breaker rated for 20A has a magnetic trip of more like 200-300A.
@@ewicky magnetic breakers come in the same large range of combo as fuses. Especially for DC.I’ve specified DC mag breakers that tripped at 105% of nameplate in under 100mS.
@@mausball Yes, I'm aware.🙃
ANL wins here for me. Fuse must break the circuit sooner, than power source/wiring will blow up. So with these guys we keep device safe.
Time to read the datasheets ;)
here is what I got from seller: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Midi,-Mega-and-ANL-fuses,-and-fuse-holders-EN.pdf
Hello there this is a nice video on testing fuses , my take is that you are testing all fuses @ the same voltage . it doesn't work as same amp reading (100 Amp ) . take on consideration the voltage that each fuse is made for ... which indicate the R----> Ohm of each fuse so fuse made for 250 volt 100 amps does not blow at the same time with the fuse made for 12 volt 100 amp... because the resistivity change from 2.5 ohm where the fuse is made for 250 volt to 0.12 ohms where the fuse is made for 12 volt regardless if we don't want to point at the retarded blow or the blow exactly on 100 amps
thank you
Its good thanks
with the Victron fuse then a 200A capable wire should be used? otherwise will not blow fast and wire will get REALLy REALLY hot. Am i Missing something? the should we used derated Victron Fuses, example: for a 100amp cable use a 50/60amp Victorn fuse?
Wow, great test. That's pretty scary that no fuses worked as intended except the cheap Chinese ANL fuses. They are all probably made in China to be fair, but could it be Chinese sabotage of Western Brands? I have seen this many times before actually. But I don't know (obviously). Unfortunately I have seen no ANL fuses that work for more than 32V (except the Mini-ANL/ ANS/ ANF). It would be interesting to test those. P.S. - That spark got me bad lol. I was connecting a large 15KW LifePo4 Battery one time a while back, and the largest spark ever almost gave me a heart attack and shot a big chunk of brass battery terminal across the room. I am lucky it didn't hit me in the eye or it would have blinded me for sure.
That 100A fuse..First one is not good .Once you get to 100A it would melt..Not good at all.. and you are wrong about that 150% of current..it is ok if there is more current than nominal..check B,C,D,G characteristics of fuses..it can be 200% of nominal current. Question is only for how long it must hold it..100A G characteristics fuse can take 200-300A no problem..only time is important how long it can take that current..
Fuses aren’t really designed to break instantly at the rated current. There mostly designed to protect against shorts. As others have pointed out a thermal fuse has a time element as well, so if you tried to pass 110 amps through the Victron fuse for an extended period of time it might have blown. Fuses should be designed to carry the maximum load your inverter can pull for peak (normally twice the rated kW) plus some headroom for short periods and the half that power for continuous. I’d say the Victron fuse is doing exactly what it was designed to do. And knowing Victron they probably have a data sheet with the parameters for the fuse. BTW that CB you got is not very good. I’d stick with Blue Sea or Midnight Solar for DC high current circuit breakers.
Thank you for the info.
Here is Victron datasheet: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Midi,-Mega-and-ANL-fuses,-and-fuse-holders-EN.pdf
so you have to double the theoric charge on chinese fuses?
I just watch someone else’s test on circuit breaker and their 100a went at 240ish which is concerning, we generally don’t have the capacity to test for function at home to know which to trust
Схоже на український акцент🙂 гарно і зрозуміло все розповів і показав.
🇺🇦
I run 2 ANL fuses between my battery and inverter and i run resettable fuses on all my positive wires (eg. From solar panels to mppt charger controller,from mppt charge controller to battery bank). I use BlueSea for my ANL fuses and Enerdrive for my resettable curcuit beeakers. Hooe to God ill never need them and that they'll work as intended if i ever did need them. Great video btw and great comments section. Based on this video i think i may have actually oversized my ANL fuses given tbe trip rating..
Thanks
COOP
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4:49 Victron 100A fuses is clearly the winner... It lasted 2x longer! 😅😅😅😅
I prefer fuses with windows - to physically inspect if they are blown or not.
You will need an ohmmeter to check Victron fuses.
Fuse is supposed to blow before wire catches fire.
!00 amp means 100 amp continuous.
A severe overload or short would produce much more than that.
Victron fuse is how fuses are supposed to behave, A 100 amp fuse should be able to hold 100 amp indefinitely.
Putin fuses
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This is great test. I'm about to add a 150A fuse to my 1500W car battery inverter to step it up to 120V. A 900W microwave could draw 2500W when start but only for a few milliseconds which is equivalent to 200A. Do you think if that'll triple the fuse? Thanks.
I put the settable fuse in line with another fuse. Double my chances of protecting my wire and the settable can be used to switch off the circuit if needed.
Please ... pre charge resistors exist for a reason
for sure.
I have a wagon inverter 8000 w wagon instructions telling me to get a anl 800 amp fuse I can't find that nowhere can you help me out
Maybe if you left the Victron fuse at 100A for a longer time, it would have blown. It could have been a slow blow fuse.
Thank you for demonstration of fuse links... For the last false amperage fuse I thought it is slow blow fuse and if you have 100 A only it will break after some time but after you have break up the cover I think it is bad design.
cool
Great test to see, I want the fuse to blow at the rated amperage. These type of fuses are to protect the wire, not the devices. Devices should have there own protection fuses.
The only fuse that behaved like a fuse should behave in this test is the Victron one. A 100A fuse should withstand 100A indefinitely at high ambient temperature.
Circuit protective devices will perform different when testing for overload compared to short circuit failure. Test and record them again but under fault conditions and see the difference compared to your overload results from this test.
what size cable are you using?
I think bigger was 2AWG and smaller 4 or 6.
Tt