I am shocked, that these high-dollar fuses didn't do their job! You have made me rethink some of these products, thanks! It’s a cautionary tale for sure!
a 100A fuse isnt suposed to blow at 100A sounds wierd but otherwise if there is any big power surge the fuse will trip so lets say you start an angle grinder on your inverter then it will pull a allot more curent than the inverter is rated for. (constant and thats the key)
there's different types of fuses. fast burn and slow burn (time delay fuse)as far as I know.. fast burns usually trip at their rated current which is good for resistive loads (like a heater, incandescent lights, etc.). They're good for protecting electronics that are sensitive to any currents above their rating. Time delay fuses will usually run rated current indefinitely and anything above it's rating it can withstand for a certain amount of time (depending on the current and ambient temperature) which is good for inductive loads (like a motor) that need to run a higher peak current during startup. (NOT recommended for use on sensitive electronic equipment) Time delay fuses are typically only designed to trip during a fault current (or short) or from running over it's rating for extended periods of time.
Awesome video! I'll add that I used to have that exact resettable fuse at 6:15 in the video except it was 200A. I don't use it anymore. The reason is that I did have a shorting incident while working on my LiFePO4 battery. This fuse tripped as it was designed to. However, the fuse contact ended up permanently damaged because of sparking -- see analysis below. 200A is a large amount of current and the resulting the spark on rapid disconnect vaporizes the contact surface metal and oxidizes the contact with black soot and molecularly deposited oxygen molecules. After resetting the fuse, my battery was supplying current normally but would stop supplying any current after a few minutes. I was perplexed. I later found out the cause was that the fuse now had a 1 million-Ohm resistance! Now, I would tempted to say it is because it is a "cheap Chinese" fuse. But I looked at comments for name-brand resettable fuses on Amazon that cost at least 3x more but they have similar problems. So unless the fuse has some kind of built-in "soft start" anti-spark resistor or some sacrificial pre-contact engagement connection, this is spark damage is unavoidable unfortunately. Moreover, since this fuse is in an enclosed "ignition inhibited" housing, its impossible to see the damage either. I did a post-mortem tear down on my fuse and, sure enough, I found a black oxidized contact point and tiny bits of metal within the fuse's enclosed body. Outward explosion blast marks were clearly visible. 200A is a lot of current but the same thing would happen at 100A or less. I've seen enormous sparks with just 3s lithium LIPO RC batteries. I now use a one-time 200A ANL fuse with visible window and I keep spare fuses next to it. I have to add that my ANT BMS with its software controlled MOSFET fuse with soft-start PWM engagement catches almost all problems well enough without any sparking. A software MOSFET based fuse may be the way to go.
Wish I'd seen this vid 4 weeks ago. Especially your comment!! I'm also one of those twits that purchased one of those waterproof resettable Chinese crap fuses from fleabay (eBay) to use on my 12v camping battery box using a 1500w (3000 peak) inverter. Using 2 AWG welding cable, the positive cable run is 400mm (16") at the most. I'll look into the ANL type fuse (behind the clear perspex) I'm just not sure on the fuse amp rating after watching the vid, any idea? A link to the fuse? Thank you in anticipation. Cheers Edit: lithium 12v battery
I am very happy I stumbled across your comment..I have 4 of these cheap breakers and have been having problems with not enough current passing through to my sub amplifier...I was thinking that maybe it was the breakers but was not 100 percent sure and now I think I know what my problem is!! Will be pulling them out and tossing them in the trash and I bet my 2 month problem I have not been able to figure out will be fixed!!! Looks like I need to buy inline fuses again lol
Really surprising results. I've been instructed by numerous sources that those waterproof resettable breakers were very poor quality and lacked accuracy. Another test might include various brands of these breakers to see just how accurate they really are. Going forwards, i can see ANL fuses being my go to of choice. Thanks for highlighting this.
Nice to see so much respect and learning here. Busy setting up 24v solar system for first time and confused about what fuses to use. Also going to install circuit breakers Thanks for sharing.🙏👍
Great to see someone testing these fuses. The fuse should be able to hold its rated current indefinitely. The time the fuse should take to blow at any current can be see in its time-current curve which should be in the datasheet. E.g. it could take a minute at 200% and a second at 300% rated current. The ANL fuse and the resettable one seem to fail pretty bad here. The biggest concern I have about these fuses is if they are capable to break the short circuit current of the batteries. That can be tens of kA or more. It is even bigger problem with higher voltage batteries (48V). If it can't it will most likely end up in flames and can destroy something else as well. I'm not sure if anyone has the right equipment and is willing to :) test that. The datasheet of the fuse should specify the maximum breaking current and its rated voltage as well.
Though I agree with the rest. The second sentence, however, DEFEATS the (purpose) of A fuse....It has to BLOW eventually, unless you want an ACIDIC body.
@@DavidHalko i had the same breakers, after using them as s switch twice, IE i pressed the button to trip them they became useless, the 60 A breaker would flicker at 5 amps load the 100A breaker would become intermittent at 15A load, i changed them for blue sea items and I've had no issues since 🤔
Also, I notice that thetmal breaker have an internal resistance that looses about 1 volt! When your batterie voltage drop down close to the low point trigger of your inverter , it causes the inverter to shutdown prematuraly.
The Victron fuses are MEGA type fuses, which are very slow blow by design, regardless of the brand. They should do 125% of rated for nearly 30 minutes before blowing.
Lets not ignore the fact that a 100amp fuse was allowing nearly 250% of its stated rating. You dont have to be a rocket scientist to know this will not end well for many people
@@bobbyfischer6786 It is definitely important to know what you are using. In a lot of cases, you are totally correct, that could end badly. However, I have EV batteries connected to an off grid setup that have a continuous rating of 250A, but a 10s peak rating of 750A. So these fuses do have a purpose.
@@StupidEarthlings so dont fiddle with high current circuits if you dont know what you do. like really know what you do. not youtube sience backed up by bought amazon bullcrappery
Don't even listen to this video, do your own research and realize that a class T fuse is the only type of fuse that's safety rated for lithium iron phosphate. Lithium iron phosphate requires a 20,000 ampere interrupt capacity, yes somebody actually tested on their boat and they were pushing 13,000 amps when their wires shorted, don't take safety as a joke as in this test
That was very good to see. I think fuses are rated by current and time - e.g. 100A for x minutes. The time side of the equation is not widely advertised however. Perhaps if you ran the each fuse at 100A until failure then documented the time it took - within practical limits - perhaps 10 minutes? Just a thought.
Yes, fuses fail due to heat. So time is important. Depending on the "certification" will outline how long the fuse should last at the rated capacity. But chances are none are certified. Hah
@@jamess1787 Correct, but nonetheless the physics of it remains, we just don't know the values...I bet the reason for that is the production variation from fuse to fuse for the same manufacturer, same batch will be huge - like +/- 25%, let alone different batches and different manufacturers.
True but that victron to take a good amount of time over 220 amps to blow is scary. Especially if a person has a cable only rated to take 150 amps thinking the 100 amp fuse will protect it. I understand what your saying about extra time to heat up and blow. But those extra seconds can be crucial especially if you're not around and a fire starts. I always use the cheaper style anl fuses. Bc cost and every pack of 15 I buy I test 2 to be sure of quality. Seems no matter the amp rating they never go over above 5-10 amps before break. Rather be safe and not sorry while being able to get 15 100 amp fuses for $22.
I run 2 ANL fuses between my battery and inverter and i run resettable fuses on all my positive wires (eg. From solar panels to mppt charger controller,from mppt charge controller to battery bank). I use BlueSea for my ANL fuses and Enerdrive for my resettable curcuit beeakers. Hooe to God ill never need them and that they'll work as intended if i ever did need them. Great video btw and great comments section. Based on this video i think i may have actually oversized my ANL fuses given tbe trip rating..
I suggest looking up the spec sheets for the fuse types tested. The victron fuse performed to spec. The no-name thermal breaker should not have tripped so early. The no-name ANL fuse with 2 rivets uses a cheap thermoplastic body. Not only did it blow way to early, but those plastic bodies can melt, and even catch fire in some cases.
@@SolarEngineering in that case you simply did not purchase high-quality components where they even exist you have to go off general guidelines for each design. Victron has them available from distributors.
Great video. nothing wrong with the fuse. u need to read it datasheet. some fuse rating at 100A fuse, mean it can handle 100A forever, but blow up at 150% to 300% of it rating in different time (10s - 4h) - time delay fuse. some blow up at it rating - fast blow fuse.
This is incorrect information. All fuses have a hold current of at least their rated amperage at a set ambient temperature usually 50c or so depending. The duration/integral of overcurrent varies depending on how fast or slow the fuse responds but no fuse trips at the rated current. They are guaranteed to pass their rated current indefinitely with margin such that within a few standard deviations no fuse will trip at the rated current.
Someone doesn't know how fuses work here... The fuse rating is what the fuse is capable of handling forever. If your 100A fuse breaks at 100A, then it's bad. The breakout of a fuse is a complex curve of time and current going through it. The purpose of a fuse is mostly to protect the wiring, a cable doesn't heat up instantly, neither is the fuse.
Victory makes such good electronics even their fuses don't blow lol. Scary. I don't think I've ever seen a fuse that even came with a data sheet and 99.9% of people would assume that the number stamped is the amount of current it will flow, excluding slow blow fuses.
However victron inverters and a lot of other things can run for several minutes at eight 200% overload and the gear copes fine and it’s perfectly safe so the fuse kind of has to work the same
Fuses have a time-current relationship. The Victron may take 20-50 minutes to blow at a bit greater than 100 amps. Other thing that is important is how much voltage drop across fuse. Resistance changes with temp so fuse series resistance is greater near current limit. Should measure voltage drop at 50%, 100%, and just before blow point. I would expect Victron has the least voltage drop.
It is an interesting fact that you think a 100A fuse has to break at 100A - since this is different to Europe: In Europe the rated current of a fuse/breaker is the maximum continuous current. Depending on the characteristic of the fuse/breaker (there are several different available) the fuse/breaker should trip at a current of 1.05 to 1.5 times of the rated current, if a breaker has an additional magnetic based short circuit detection this should trigger at 1.5 (circuit breakers in Europe usually have a thermal based over current protection plus a magnetic based short circuit protection). So you have to check what standard the fuse is made for and check against the standard.
The one that can reset does not contain something that will blow (because it would not be a reset-able fuse), it has precisely cut copper core that they measured how much it will heat up, a bi-metal is inserted that bends at this exact temperature, so for you to be able to reset it this bi-metal has to cool down back to "normal operating temperature". This can be proven by using 2 fuses at the exact current, making them blow, and hiding one in a freezer and leaving one in room temperature, one put in freezer you will be able to reset way faster
Properly designed fuses will blow at their rated current after a time period specified in their data sheet. Wether it be a slow blow/fast blow. These are the slow blow type, designed to handle large inrush currents for short periods during startup. You should be comparing these fuses to their data sheets, and how long they last at their rated current. As other have also pointed out these are the incorrect fuse type anyway for use with lithium due to the way they blow.
I was thinking of getting circuit breakers instead of fuses. Fuses work only one time and you have to buy them again, and if you have lots of fuses that is a headache to check which one it is. I was planning on using circuit breakers (dc single pole) between battery and bms rather than fuses to test this. I also was going to put a 100~150Amp DC circuit breaker at the positive for the whole current going to the inverter. If anything goes wrong, I can see specifically which cell, or was it the battery as a whole. It is more expensive, but to me that safety is worth the price.
Fuses are safer and mandated by code in many applications. Breakers have trouble with high energy interruption events and can be 10x the cost for the same safety ratings. I agree though in that I use breakers whenever practicable. Fuses suck. Too bad they're so damn effective!
They advertise it to blow at 100A? Typically it should run indefinitely at 100A and then trip at a certain percentage over 100A at a certain amount of time. This would prevent small, but short surges from disrupting current flow.
It would have been interesting to see the voltage drop across the fuse as well during the test. And it looks like, most commenters do not know, how fuses are usually characterizedl. It would probably be the best, to chose the fuse, that ensures protection of your equipment, and has the lowest voltage drop / power loss at the same time. Thanks for sharing this interesting test :-)
None of these fuses are safety rated for the type of lithium batteries he's using so yes I understand what you're saying however this is like using a paper clip because you ran out of fuses. For lithium iron phosphate class T is the only type that any manufacturer would recommend, 20,000 ampere interrupt capacity, IAC. I'm no expert but I at least know that basic fact. lithium iron phosphate when shorted if the bank is large enough and the batteries that we use that are 280 amp hours and such can easily push thousands of amps through them shorted no joke
Looking at the impedance of theses cells, they should easily deliver several thousand amps when shorted. I would also recommend choosig a fuse for the used voltage. The 12V in this test are probably acceptable for all fuses, but in 48V Systems, it is allready a different thing.
@@daskasspatzle2396 for example this guy used lifepo4 for his boat, he said it shorted with 13,000 amps, none of these would be acceptable. A much lower AIC than acceptable means the spark can jump the fuse break, like a leap frog
Keep in mind the tester did not understand how fuses work. It is not supposed to blow quickly at just above its rated amperage. Fuses use 3 factors to determine their rating. Time, temperature and amperage. All 3 need to be accounted for, not just amperage. The Victor my have performed exactly as its rated to and the Erayco may not have done so well. You have to use the specs for the fuse plus measure time and temperature. So testing fuses is quite a bit more complicated than it seems.
Victron fuses are not fast below they are slow blow also they are meant specifically for their equipment. Most of their equipment can do a 200% overload safely for instance and inverter can do that for a couple of minutes to allow in rush current the fuse is made to be appropriate also, device is not going to draw 205 A if it fails it’s likely going to fail at 1000 amp short circuit
Ive seen others have the same issue with the automatic fuse not locking in again after running 60A! But then never work again... So it is actually a very low quality.
It is not dangerous it actually falls perfectly in line with the data sheet. They are fuses meant for their products. Nothing else. The distributors sell them with Victron products they are designed for their inverters inverters can run an overcurrent for a sustained period of time until it gets too hot that allows for start-up current so the fuse has to cope and it is still within the specification.
Fuses are thermal devices. If you want guaranteed trip current, use a magnetic circuit breaker. A fuse will trip at any combination of time/current on a curve that correlates to the thermal failure of the protection element. That curve extends both far below and above the rated trip current.
@@cozzm0AU that depends entirely on what class and timing the fuse has. There are 10a fuses that can pass 30a for an hour, but will pop at 100 in 100mS. There are many thousands of combinations of type and time in the world of fuses.
Most "magnetic circuit breakers" will only trip at much higher current than its rating. For example, a standard US residential 120VAC circuit breaker rated for 20A has a magnetic trip of more like 200-300A.
@@ewicky magnetic breakers come in the same large range of combo as fuses. Especially for DC.I’ve specified DC mag breakers that tripped at 105% of nameplate in under 100mS.
The Victron fuses are meant to work this way the inverters can do double the rated current for a couple of minutes so it needs to work with that. They are also within the specification of a mega fuse. It’s really important to know that it isn’t one fuses worse than another they are all for different applications, circuit would not be suitable with an inverter but a mega fuse would
Great test!! It confuses me every time with fuses. If you buy a fuse to run an appliance up to 100 amps, you want it to be stable at that current and not blow. If you have an appliance that can only run up to 100 amps and then needs to be protected beyond that, you would need it to blow at 100 amps. It is also a requirement for a fuse to protect the cable in a short circuit situation (to prevent fire), and not necessarily protect the appliance you are running. I think these high current fuses are for protecting cabling more so than appliances. It's better to have an appliance destroyed than to have the cable heat up to the point of starting a fire. On the flip side, sizing the fuse to protect an appliance that is installed with the correct size cable, will always blow the fuse before the appliance is ruined and 'well' before the cable gets hot. I am a fan of Victron equipment and think that they may have sized the fuse to be able to run at 100 amps. The thickness of the blow bar in the middle, compared to the other fuses, is substantial.
In the school they always highlighted, fuse is not to protect the devices, it is to protect the cabling. Well, I think the smaller in-device fuses are anyway to protect the device too, but mostly to prevent hazardous short sircuit situations to go even worse. That Victron was really performing terrible! Quite bad flaw for such a reputable company.
@@KenSentMe- Actually Victron fuses probably performed just as they should and they are designed. A fuse should be capable of handling its rated current almost indefinite time. How fast a fuse blows is function of time and current. Small over current and it can take tens of minutes before fuse is blown. As you can see in the video victron fuse did heat up with lower over current. It might have blown with time. Bigger over current did blow it much faster. I did check couple datasheets for different brand fuses and according all of them a 100A fuse should blow in 5-10second with 200A current and with 100A fuse should hold at least 100second or to be more accurate all the charts stopped at 100s. Anyway very interesting video I think I have never seen testing of fuses before.
However, the appliance is designed properly from a quality manufacturer where it can handle the overcurrent for a short duration and the manufacturer tells you what fuse and what type
Thank you for demonstration of fuse links... For the last false amperage fuse I thought it is slow blow fuse and if you have 100 A only it will break after some time but after you have break up the cover I think it is bad design.
They are completely in line with their curve on the data sheet as far as my test went they are designed for you to their specific equipment where there is massive in rush. Also a failure is going to be dramatic and drawing a lot of current they will blow
Could you do one more test with the ANL fuses please? The concern is that they don't break fast enough with very large inrush of current eg 200-300A, or that they weld together? People say to get the more expensive fuses because of this. Would be good to bust that myth
It doesn't matter, anl and any of these other fuses that he's testing are not safety rated for lithium batteries literally he failed to test the one type of fuse thats safety rated for lithium iron phosphate. Please look into it because lifepo4 is actually able to push thousands of amps through your wire when it's shorted depending on the size of the battery bank. Seriously please just look up the info
@@and7rei the only fuse rated to handle lifepo4 is class T. and please know that AIC, ampere interrupt capacity is extremely important. Also extremely important is with a class T fuse you must use a fast-acting fuse do not use slow blow or delayed fuses, it's extremely important that you understand that. A guy on a boat tested his current passing 13,000 amps through a short, a class t fuse provides 20,000 AIC. Midnight solar has a circuit breaker rated for 10,000 AIC which you're not supposed to use but honestly I would use it
It’s really important to know that a device that’s rated at 100 A is less likely to draw 110 A during a failure. It is way more likely to draw several thousand amps and blow a fuse
". Easing current to max in a short interval shows the peak rupture rating, victron inverters have a high peak ability and that is why we use these fuses so the inverter can deliver peak current at times. When high current is present over a longer period the heat rises and victron fuses blow, that is how they should be tested" Please see the victron inverter spec sheets.... victron can supply over nominal power for some duration of time.
Circuit protective devices will perform different when testing for overload compared to short circuit failure. Test and record them again but under fault conditions and see the difference compared to your overload results from this test.
I put the settable fuse in line with another fuse. Double my chances of protecting my wire and the settable can be used to switch off the circuit if needed.
Fuses are rated 100A for x amount of minutes... You have fast blow fuses and slow fuses. You need to see if they hold 100A. And check the specs on the fuses first.
I agree, i size fuses above the max expected current, Im using 300amp 200amp and 100amp ANL. great to see them blow at the rated current. those victron are normally inside their inverters. as max current on mine would be 166amps. and for short time even higher. seems they are doing what you would expect
I just bought a couple of 250A mega fuses and was wondering. why my fuses are 2mm width and your victron (8:13) appears wider. Hmm... I think I bought fake fuses.
Great test to see, I want the fuse to blow at the rated amperage. These type of fuses are to protect the wire, not the devices. Devices should have there own protection fuses.
Quite simply you are not buying a fuse you are buying an improperly made piece of metal hair because they do not blow out their rated current in this case you are buying one that is substandard
My worry is if you have 4 or more batteries and an error in one meaning the other 3 dump their load into the broken battery, the fuse pops but then arcs due to the extreme amps causing a fire.
@@SolarEngineering yes and please know that AIC, ampere interrupt capacity is extremely important. Also extremely important is with a class T fuse you must use a fast-acting fuse do not use slow blow or delayed fuses, it's extremely important that you understand that. A guy on a boat tested his current passing 13,000 amps through a short, a class t fuse provides 20,000 AIC. Midnight solar has a circuit breaker rated for 10,000 AIC which you're not supposed to use but honestly I would use it
Hey, could you point me to a good source for the requirement for T class fuses? Thanks in advance. I've heard it repeated about the T class but can't find original source for said info.
@@CraigThorne also just to explain why AIC ampere interrupt capacity is important is because let's say you try to use these fuses in the video that are not rated for lithium iron phosphate, what then happens is the fuse will blow and then the current will simply jump The junction negating the entire purpose of the fuse in the first place, I think they call it arcing
@@CraigThorne my other replies keep getting deleted I'm not sure why. Basically what I said is on the samlex pst1500 watt inverter instruction manual it is stated there. Another fact is look up how many amps can lithium iron phosphate push through a short, then compare it to the AIC ampere interrupt capacity rating of the fuses shown in the video. What then happens is called arcing even though the fuse broke it will jump that junction because again of the AIC mismatch. So lithium iron phosphate I have heard was able to push 13,000 amps through before the wires melted on this guy's boat, now look at the AIC rating of these fuses it's like 3,000 or 5,000 amps
The one "waterproof" is not a fuse. It is an automatic circuit breaker with ignition protector. It should allow to pass 100Amps within 1 hour. And more amps you give to it the faster it will switch off. For example it may switch off at 150A after 2 minutes. So I would say it does not work quite correctly switching off at once at 100A exactly. But at least it works. While fuses must be distroyed at once when they reach 100-110A. Automatic circuit breakers and destroyable fuses max amps are counted in a different way.
I just watch someone else’s test on circuit breaker and their 100a went at 240ish which is concerning, we generally don’t have the capacity to test for function at home to know which to trust
Photonicinduction (thank god he's back) recently did an awesome video popping giant fuses. He used a huge capacitor bank and since it's just a short pulse, he had to greatly exceed the rating of the fuse to get it to pop.
Fuses aren’t really designed to break instantly at the rated current. There mostly designed to protect against shorts. As others have pointed out a thermal fuse has a time element as well, so if you tried to pass 110 amps through the Victron fuse for an extended period of time it might have blown. Fuses should be designed to carry the maximum load your inverter can pull for peak (normally twice the rated kW) plus some headroom for short periods and the half that power for continuous. I’d say the Victron fuse is doing exactly what it was designed to do. And knowing Victron they probably have a data sheet with the parameters for the fuse. BTW that CB you got is not very good. I’d stick with Blue Sea or Midnight Solar for DC high current circuit breakers.
@@rOSScOGITANS try and get a data sheet because there are many Chinese brands that are okay just search the brand-name up online and they will probably be a data sheet on the website
There are many different types of fuses and they all have their appropriate uses. All fuses should be able to handle their full current rating indefinitely. Most manufacturers will have a graph that shows how long it will take the fuse to blow under different loads. That cheap fuse should not have popped bellow or at 100 amps. The resettable ones have a problem with internally overheating and tripping well below their rated current. If you use the resettable type buy from a quality manufacturer.
Yes that's true however since he only does lithium none of these fuses are even safe to use, he fails to test the one type of fuse rated for lithium batteries, which for some reason isn't common knowledge even by the RUclips creators, it's just lazy research
@@eksine Please link in your video with the correct testing procedure. Yes we all know he should have used the data sheet for the fuses but your comments are way over the top. It's pretty easy to criticize but not so easy to get off of your butt and actually make a video so we can all see what an expert you are.
@@Dreadlk I've made videos where I've identified and solved Honda's transmission issues from 1999 to 2006 and onwards. I made over 15 hours of rebuild videos. Solving a problem that nobody else has figured out. Right now I'm learning how to do body work and paint cars. Next I'll be converting this van into a camper and do some solar motorized work on it. I just put the information for him on a platter and he's thankful if you don't appreciate it then go do your own research I don't have time for lazy people. And over the top? It's common knowledge you doofus, it's simply not common knowledge to people who don't do their research
@@Dreadlk he pinned my comment to the top, did you miss it somehow, dude like I said if people are gonna be lazy I cannot help them, read the pinned comment
This is great test. I'm about to add a 150A fuse to my 1500W car battery inverter to step it up to 120V. A 900W microwave could draw 2500W when start but only for a few milliseconds which is equivalent to 200A. Do you think if that'll triple the fuse? Thanks.
I would expect you to also Google how is an inverter that can do 200% overload going to be fine on a fuse that blows below the rated current so this is within specification devices do not overload it a little bit if it fails it goes bang and then fuse goes regardless
The fuse is really only going to blow in a dramatic failure in the nature of a failure that will blow a fuse. It will likely draw several thousand amps for a second.
I've seen the same with all types of Chinese fuses - they don't blow at the specified amperage, usually 200%+ is required to trip them. They are using cheaper metals to match a price point, or straight out lie to sell things to distributors. Stick with name brands like Littlefuse and Bussman - these are meant to prevent fires and device damage - don't cheap out on a fuse!
4:49 Victron 100A fuses is clearly the winner... It lasted 2x longer! 😅😅😅😅 I prefer fuses with windows - to physically inspect if they are blown or not. You will need an ohmmeter to check Victron fuses.
Victron have ones with windows however they are quite expensive in terms of fuses to get that type also that bus bar has LEDs to tell you the fuse state
with the Victron fuse then a 200A capable wire should be used? otherwise will not blow fast and wire will get REALLy REALLY hot. Am i Missing something? the should we used derated Victron Fuses, example: for a 100amp cable use a 50/60amp Victorn fuse?
Definitely not one thing that is worth knowing Victron over spec wire size but you’re not going to overload a fuse a little bit it’s going to be overloaded by 1000 A in a short
Actually that is not the case. It’s simply the fact that the fuse is properly designed. The other other ones are below specification. Also an inverter would not fail by using 10 A more. It would fail by shorting out so the fuse would work
It just follows the cracked trip curve essentially for breaking as a mega fuse different fuses have different times and different sustained overload ratings. That is why the types exist
Wow, excellent test! I am soo very disappointed in victron. I've been running 6-300 amp and fuses for a while with no issues. I blew one but it was my own fault. They seem somewhat ok and they're way cheap. Excellent content THANKYOU!
A lot of people believe the Victor are best. Keep in mind that these tests are not valid. Fuse ratings also take into consideration time and temperature. Plus he did not consult the fuse data sheets.
Electron fuses good with air equipment as things I converters can use a lot more power than their rating for a few seconds also you don’t just overload the circuit by five or 10 A in most cases a dead short is a dead short and draws 1000 amp so the fuse blows these are meant to be resilient for continuous loads and they work this waybut it is a slow blow
The 100amp Fuse that Passed over 200amps for they maybe Rated to 48 volts and some are Rated for up to 240 volt or More and and if you ran there max Voltage with there Max amps it would blow at around 100amps and being more then Likely your Running Low Voltage Like 1.5V - 48 Volts and Yes Amps are the Main Factor but Voltage will add More Heat to the Fuse at the Same amps and I wouldn't want a 100 Amp Fuse Blowing right at 100amps for it will more then Likely be Running Always Hot when Running 90amps and when things go bad enough to go from 90amps to 250amps is Good for most times if your Running 90amps and things do go bad and Need the Fuse to Blow it don't just Draw a Little bit more like 120 Amps it go's to Double or More so from 90 amps to 180 amps or MORE and them 100amp Fuses that Blow at 225+ will Run Cooler Temps and the ones that Blow at 100amps if your running 90 amps they will Blow more often and they will Run Hotter and the Breaker that ran 90 amps was a 1st for a lot of them don't that is a Good one it Seams. for the Video that was very good and Thank you.
They work equally well on the + or - side, no difference if the current is the same. HOWEVER fuses are typically installed on the + side so that in case of issues the cabling on the - side never gets interrupted and therefore remains grounded (in addition to the dedicated chassis ground wires).
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I am shocked, that these high-dollar fuses didn't do their job! You have made me rethink some of these products, thanks! It’s a cautionary tale for sure!
Which one(s)?
a 100A fuse isnt suposed to blow at 100A sounds wierd but otherwise if there is any big power surge the fuse will trip so lets say you start an angle grinder on your inverter then it will pull a allot more curent than the inverter is rated for. (constant and thats the key)
However, if you look at the data sheet, it is appropriate
there's different types of fuses. fast burn and slow burn (time delay fuse)as far as I know.. fast burns usually trip at their rated current which is good for resistive loads (like a heater, incandescent lights, etc.). They're good for protecting electronics that are sensitive to any currents above their rating.
Time delay fuses will usually run rated current indefinitely and anything above it's rating it can withstand for a certain amount of time (depending on the current and ambient temperature) which is good for inductive loads (like a motor) that need to run a higher peak current during startup. (NOT recommended for use on sensitive electronic equipment)
Time delay fuses are typically only designed to trip during a fault current (or short) or from running over it's rating for extended periods of time.
Thank you. That clarification was needed.
Awesome video! I'll add that I used to have that exact resettable fuse at 6:15 in the video except it was 200A. I don't use it anymore. The reason is that I did have a shorting incident while working on my LiFePO4 battery. This fuse tripped as it was designed to. However, the fuse contact ended up permanently damaged because of sparking -- see analysis below.
200A is a large amount of current and the resulting the spark on rapid disconnect vaporizes the contact surface metal and oxidizes the contact with black soot and molecularly deposited oxygen molecules. After resetting the fuse, my battery was supplying current normally but would stop supplying any current after a few minutes. I was perplexed.
I later found out the cause was that the fuse now had a 1 million-Ohm resistance! Now, I would tempted to say it is because it is a "cheap Chinese" fuse. But I looked at comments for name-brand resettable fuses on Amazon that cost at least 3x more but they have similar problems.
So unless the fuse has some kind of built-in "soft start" anti-spark resistor or some sacrificial pre-contact engagement connection, this is spark damage is unavoidable unfortunately. Moreover, since this fuse is in an enclosed "ignition inhibited" housing, its impossible to see the damage either. I did a post-mortem tear down on my fuse and, sure enough, I found a black oxidized contact point and tiny bits of metal within the fuse's enclosed body. Outward explosion blast marks were clearly visible.
200A is a lot of current but the same thing would happen at 100A or less. I've seen enormous sparks with just 3s lithium LIPO RC batteries.
I now use a one-time 200A ANL fuse with visible window and I keep spare fuses next to it. I have to add that my ANT BMS with its software controlled MOSFET fuse with soft-start PWM engagement catches almost all problems well enough without any sparking. A software MOSFET based fuse may be the way to go.
Anyone who has touched together the wires coming from a solar array knows that it doesn't take much current to do a TON of damage. DC is a beast!
Thank you for this valuable information. Will toss my resettable fuses..
Wish I'd seen this vid 4 weeks ago.
Especially your comment!!
I'm also one of those twits that purchased one of those waterproof resettable Chinese crap fuses from fleabay (eBay) to use on my 12v camping battery box using a 1500w (3000 peak) inverter.
Using 2 AWG welding cable, the positive cable run is 400mm (16") at the most.
I'll look into the ANL type fuse (behind the clear perspex)
I'm just not sure on the fuse amp rating after watching the vid, any idea?
A link to the fuse?
Thank you in anticipation.
Cheers
Edit: lithium 12v battery
For lilthium batteries recomandation is to use MRBF terminal fuse or even better T-class fuse. They have AIC raiting 10kA and 20kA and more.
I am very happy I stumbled across your comment..I have 4 of these cheap breakers and have been having problems with not enough current passing through to my sub amplifier...I was thinking that maybe it was the breakers but was not 100 percent sure and now I think I know what my problem is!! Will be pulling them out and tossing them in the trash and I bet my 2 month problem I have not been able to figure out will be fixed!!! Looks like I need to buy inline fuses again lol
Really surprising results. I've been instructed by numerous sources that those waterproof resettable breakers were very poor quality and lacked accuracy. Another test might include various brands of these breakers to see just how accurate they really are. Going forwards, i can see ANL fuses being my go to of choice. Thanks for highlighting this.
Nice to see so much respect and learning here.
Busy setting up 24v solar system for first time and confused about what fuses to use. Also going to install circuit breakers
Thanks for sharing.🙏👍
"560 Chinese Ah"
😅😂🤣
Littlefuse has some nice documentation that describes fuse curves for different fuses and what the time vs. current curves should be.
Great to see someone testing these fuses. The fuse should be able to hold its rated current indefinitely. The time the fuse should take to blow at any current can be see in its time-current curve which should be in the datasheet. E.g. it could take a minute at 200% and a second at 300% rated current. The ANL fuse and the resettable one seem to fail pretty bad here. The biggest concern I have about these fuses is if they are capable to break the short circuit current of the batteries. That can be tens of kA or more. It is even bigger problem with higher voltage batteries (48V). If it can't it will most likely end up in flames and can destroy something else as well. I'm not sure if anyone has the right equipment and is willing to :) test that. The datasheet of the fuse should specify the maximum breaking current and its rated voltage as well.
good points... I like the ANL, i want them to blow, as maximum current, i choose the fuse for higher than the expected current on that circuit,
I'd be keen to see a short circuit test with these fuses as well @ 48v
@@graham121150
I would definitely stay away from ANL fuses! I prefer blue sea
Yet the ANL fuse worked the best by far in reality (as it would have been the only fuse which would have actually protected the wire).
Though I agree with the rest. The second sentence, however, DEFEATS the (purpose) of A fuse....It has to BLOW eventually, unless you want an ACIDIC body.
I LOVED watching this - BRAVO!!!!!!!
Thank You
Glad you enjoyed it!
The blue sea and victron were the only ones that would hold up to continuous inverter duty near their rating as intended.
Nice test. I’m quite impressed with the thermal cutoff switch breaker!
it is a piece of rubbish. do not use it.
@@ursodermatt8809 - it worked the way I expected, why is it rubbish?
@@DavidHalko
after using them a few times they are not working anymore. get a proper DC breaker, they are not that more expensive.
@@DavidHalko i had the same breakers, after using them as s switch twice, IE i pressed the button to trip them they became useless, the 60 A breaker would flicker at 5 amps load the 100A breaker would become intermittent at 15A load, i changed them for blue sea items and I've had no issues since 🤔
Also, I notice that thetmal breaker have an internal resistance that looses about 1 volt! When your batterie voltage drop down close to the low point trigger of your inverter , it causes the inverter to shutdown prematuraly.
Thank You! Very interesting to see and verify that a manufacturers fuse actually works.
You're welcome!
The Victron fuses are MEGA type fuses, which are very slow blow by design, regardless of the brand. They should do 125% of rated for nearly 30 minutes before blowing.
Lets not ignore the fact that a 100amp fuse was allowing nearly 250% of its stated rating. You dont have to be a rocket scientist to know this will not end well for many people
@@bobbyfischer6786 It is definitely important to know what you are using. In a lot of cases, you are totally correct, that could end badly. However, I have EV batteries connected to an off grid setup that have a continuous rating of 250A, but a 10s peak rating of 750A. So these fuses do have a purpose.
You buy them based on ANL or ANN.. One is Slow Blow. One is Instant...
In the meantime my car is up in flames, as the main power, going to my amp melted and caught fire.. while patiently waiting for the fuse to blow.. 😂
@@StupidEarthlings so dont fiddle with high current circuits if you dont know what you do. like really know what you do. not youtube sience backed up by bought amazon bullcrappery
Great test. I need to buy some fuses/circuit breakers so this video came at the right time
Don't even listen to this video, do your own research and realize that a class T fuse is the only type of fuse that's safety rated for lithium iron phosphate. Lithium iron phosphate requires a 20,000 ampere interrupt capacity, yes somebody actually tested on their boat and they were pushing 13,000 amps when their wires shorted, don't take safety as a joke as in this test
Дуже показове порівняння, дякую!
That was very good to see. I think fuses are rated by current and time - e.g. 100A for x minutes. The time side of the equation is not widely advertised however. Perhaps if you ran the each fuse at 100A until failure then documented the time it took - within practical limits - perhaps 10 minutes? Just a thought.
Yes, fuses fail due to heat. So time is important. Depending on the "certification" will outline how long the fuse should last at the rated capacity.
But chances are none are certified. Hah
@@jamess1787 Correct, but nonetheless the physics of it remains, we just don't know the values...I bet the reason for that is the production variation from fuse to fuse for the same manufacturer, same batch will be huge - like +/- 25%, let alone different batches and different manufacturers.
True but that victron to take a good amount of time over 220 amps to blow is scary. Especially if a person has a cable only rated to take 150 amps thinking the 100 amp fuse will protect it. I understand what your saying about extra time to heat up and blow. But those extra seconds can be crucial especially if you're not around and a fire starts. I always use the cheaper style anl fuses. Bc cost and every pack of 15 I buy I test 2 to be sure of quality. Seems no matter the amp rating they never go over above 5-10 amps before break. Rather be safe and not sorry while being able to get 15 100 amp fuses for $22.
I run 2 ANL fuses between my battery and inverter and i run resettable fuses on all my positive wires (eg. From solar panels to mppt charger controller,from mppt charge controller to battery bank). I use BlueSea for my ANL fuses and Enerdrive for my resettable curcuit beeakers. Hooe to God ill never need them and that they'll work as intended if i ever did need them. Great video btw and great comments section. Based on this video i think i may have actually oversized my ANL fuses given tbe trip rating..
I suggest looking up the spec sheets for the fuse types tested. The victron fuse performed to spec. The no-name thermal breaker should not have tripped so early. The no-name ANL fuse with 2 rivets uses a cheap thermoplastic body. Not only did it blow way to early, but those plastic bodies can melt, and even catch fire in some cases.
thank you for the info, if you could help me to locate spec sheets, would appreciate this, I tried to find it, but failed.
@@SolarEngineering in that case you simply did not purchase high-quality components where they even exist you have to go off general guidelines for each design. Victron has them available from distributors.
Great video. nothing wrong with the fuse. u need to read it datasheet. some fuse rating at 100A fuse, mean it can handle 100A forever, but blow up at 150% to 300% of it rating in different time (10s - 4h) - time delay fuse. some blow up at it rating - fast blow fuse.
yeah, I need to educate myself more about all types of fuses.
This is incorrect information. All fuses have a hold current of at least their rated amperage at a set ambient temperature usually 50c or so depending. The duration/integral of overcurrent varies depending on how fast or slow the fuse responds but no fuse trips at the rated current. They are guaranteed to pass their rated current indefinitely with margin such that within a few standard deviations no fuse will trip at the rated current.
@@knurlgnar24 actually some manufacturers specify the current that it will instantly blow
This video was outstanding
thanks :)
Someone doesn't know how fuses work here... The fuse rating is what the fuse is capable of handling forever. If your 100A fuse breaks at 100A, then it's bad.
The breakout of a fuse is a complex curve of time and current going through it. The purpose of a fuse is mostly to protect the wiring, a cable doesn't heat up instantly, neither is the fuse.
thank you for the information.
Victory makes such good electronics even their fuses don't blow lol. Scary. I don't think I've ever seen a fuse that even came with a data sheet and 99.9% of people would assume that the number stamped is the amount of current it will flow, excluding slow blow fuses.
Yes, it is quite sad so many people don't understand how fuses work.
Bullsh!t. Your basic understanding of fuses is flawed. Every MAJOR brand have data sheet. Learn it and get back here.
However victron inverters and a lot of other things can run for several minutes at eight 200% overload and the gear copes fine and it’s perfectly safe so the fuse kind of has to work the same
excellent video---really really glad I watched!
Good info . Well done.
Awesome demonstration.
Fuses have a time-current relationship. The Victron may take 20-50 minutes to blow at a bit greater than 100 amps.
Other thing that is important is how much voltage drop across fuse. Resistance changes with temp so fuse series resistance is greater near current limit. Should measure voltage drop at 50%, 100%, and just before blow point. I would expect Victron has the least voltage drop.
It is an interesting fact that you think a 100A fuse has to break at 100A - since this is different to Europe: In Europe the rated current of a fuse/breaker is the maximum continuous current. Depending on the characteristic of the fuse/breaker (there are several different available) the fuse/breaker should trip at a current of 1.05 to 1.5 times of the rated current, if a breaker has an additional magnetic based short circuit detection this should trigger at 1.5 (circuit breakers in Europe usually have a thermal based over current protection plus a magnetic based short circuit protection). So you have to check what standard the fuse is made for and check against the standard.
The one that can reset does not contain something that will blow (because it would not be a reset-able fuse), it has precisely cut copper core that they measured how much it will heat up, a bi-metal is inserted that bends at this exact temperature, so for you to be able to reset it this bi-metal has to cool down back to "normal operating temperature". This can be proven by using 2 fuses at the exact current, making them blow, and hiding one in a freezer and leaving one in room temperature, one put in freezer you will be able to reset way faster
So in theory these fuses should allow more current in freezing weather, compared with a hot summer day?
Properly designed fuses will blow at their rated current after a time period specified in their data sheet. Wether it be a slow blow/fast blow. These are the slow blow type, designed to handle large inrush currents for short periods during startup. You should be comparing these fuses to their data sheets, and how long they last at their rated current.
As other have also pointed out these are the incorrect fuse type anyway for use with lithium due to the way they blow.
What type of fuse do you use with lithium?
Actually, that’s not always the case. Sometimes fuses are designed to blow at different different current based on duration
I was thinking of getting circuit breakers instead of fuses. Fuses work only one time and you have to buy them again, and if you have lots of fuses that is a headache to check which one it is. I was planning on using circuit breakers (dc single pole) between battery and bms rather than fuses to test this. I also was going to put a 100~150Amp DC circuit breaker at the positive for the whole current going to the inverter. If anything goes wrong, I can see specifically which cell, or was it the battery as a whole. It is more expensive, but to me that safety is worth the price.
Fuses are safer and mandated by code in many applications. Breakers have trouble with high energy interruption events and can be 10x the cost for the same safety ratings. I agree though in that I use breakers whenever practicable. Fuses suck. Too bad they're so damn effective!
If anything is tripping or blowing, you have a big problem
I have that exact circuit breaker. Im glad to see that it works as advertised.
They advertise it to blow at 100A? Typically it should run indefinitely at 100A and then trip at a certain percentage over 100A at a certain amount of time. This would prevent small, but short surges from disrupting current flow.
Well for fused protection between batteries the resettable seems perfect
This does not follow any industry standard trip curve so it means it hasn’t been designed by anyone who knows what they’re doing
Merci ! superbe test 👍
It would have been interesting to see the voltage drop across the fuse as well during the test.
And it looks like, most commenters do not know, how fuses are usually characterizedl.
It would probably be the best, to chose the fuse, that ensures protection of your equipment, and has the lowest voltage drop / power loss at the same time.
Thanks for sharing this interesting test :-)
None of these fuses are safety rated for the type of lithium batteries he's using so yes I understand what you're saying however this is like using a paper clip because you ran out of fuses. For lithium iron phosphate class T is the only type that any manufacturer would recommend, 20,000 ampere interrupt capacity, IAC. I'm no expert but I at least know that basic fact. lithium iron phosphate when shorted if the bank is large enough and the batteries that we use that are 280 amp hours and such can easily push thousands of amps through them shorted no joke
Looking at the impedance of theses cells, they should easily deliver several thousand amps when shorted. I would also recommend choosig a fuse for the used voltage. The 12V in this test are probably acceptable for all fuses, but in 48V Systems, it is allready a different thing.
@@daskasspatzle2396 no these fuses are actually not acceptable for his application which we know is lifepo4. Some are potential fire hazards
@@daskasspatzle2396 for example this guy used lifepo4 for his boat, he said it shorted with 13,000 amps, none of these would be acceptable. A much lower AIC than acceptable means the spark can jump the fuse break, like a leap frog
I did not mean, that these fuses are acceptable for this application, but another criteria is the system voltage as well.
Thanks for making videos of these tests. I'm surprised the Victron did so poorly and also surprised that the Erayco did so well.
Keep in mind the tester did not understand how fuses work. It is not supposed to blow quickly at just above its rated amperage. Fuses use 3 factors to determine their rating. Time, temperature and amperage. All 3 need to be accounted for, not just amperage. The Victor my have performed exactly as its rated to and the Erayco may not have done so well. You have to use the specs for the fuse plus measure time and temperature. So testing fuses is quite a bit more complicated than it seems.
@@JasonWW2000 Was doing some further research and you're absolutely correct. Thank you
Victron fuses are not fast below they are slow blow also they are meant specifically for their equipment. Most of their equipment can do a 200% overload safely for instance and inverter can do that for a couple of minutes to allow in rush current the fuse is made to be appropriate also, device is not going to draw 205 A if it fails it’s likely going to fail at 1000 amp short circuit
Ive seen others have the same issue with the automatic fuse not locking in again after running 60A! But then never work again...
So it is actually a very low quality.
Great stuff Be great to see tests on DC breakers non polarised /polarised DIN mount type that are popular
That Victron fuse is dangerous.
Thanks for the video!
It is not dangerous it actually falls perfectly in line with the data sheet. They are fuses meant for their products. Nothing else. The distributors sell them with Victron products they are designed for their inverters inverters can run an overcurrent for a sustained period of time until it gets too hot that allows for start-up current so the fuse has to cope and it is still within the specification.
Fuses are thermal devices. If you want guaranteed trip current, use a magnetic circuit breaker. A fuse will trip at any combination of time/current on a curve that correlates to the thermal failure of the protection element. That curve extends both far below and above the rated trip current.
Shouldn't last at double the rated current though under any situation for any length of time you'd assume right ?
@@cozzm0AU that depends entirely on what class and timing the fuse has. There are 10a fuses that can pass 30a for an hour, but will pop at 100 in 100mS. There are many thousands of combinations of type and time in the world of fuses.
Most "magnetic circuit breakers" will only trip at much higher current than its rating. For example, a standard US residential 120VAC circuit breaker rated for 20A has a magnetic trip of more like 200-300A.
@@ewicky magnetic breakers come in the same large range of combo as fuses. Especially for DC.I’ve specified DC mag breakers that tripped at 105% of nameplate in under 100mS.
@@mausball Yes, I'm aware.🙃
thanks for the video.
i only use the resettable fuse and seems i done well.
The Victron fuses are meant to work this way the inverters can do double the rated current for a couple of minutes so it needs to work with that. They are also within the specification of a mega fuse. It’s really important to know that it isn’t one fuses worse than another they are all for different applications, circuit would not be suitable with an inverter but a mega fuse would
Great test!!
It confuses me every time with fuses. If you buy a fuse to run an appliance up to 100 amps, you want it to be stable at that current and not blow. If you have an appliance that can only run up to 100 amps and then needs to be protected beyond that, you would need it to blow at 100 amps.
It is also a requirement for a fuse to protect the cable in a short circuit situation (to prevent fire), and not necessarily protect the appliance you are running.
I think these high current fuses are for protecting cabling more so than appliances. It's better to have an appliance destroyed than to have the cable heat up to the point of starting a fire.
On the flip side, sizing the fuse to protect an appliance that is installed with the correct size cable, will always blow the fuse before the appliance is ruined and 'well' before the cable gets hot.
I am a fan of Victron equipment and think that they may have sized the fuse to be able to run at 100 amps. The thickness of the blow bar in the middle, compared to the other fuses, is substantial.
thank you for the info, I need to educate myself more about all types of fuses.
In the school they always highlighted, fuse is not to protect the devices, it is to protect the cabling. Well, I think the smaller in-device fuses are anyway to protect the device too, but mostly to prevent hazardous short sircuit situations to go even worse.
That Victron was really performing terrible! Quite bad flaw for such a reputable company.
@@KenSentMe- Actually Victron fuses probably performed just as they should and they are designed. A fuse should be capable of handling its rated current almost indefinite time. How fast a fuse blows is function of time and current. Small over current and it can take tens of minutes before fuse is blown. As you can see in the video victron fuse did heat up with lower over current. It might have blown with time. Bigger over current did blow it much faster.
I did check couple datasheets for different brand fuses and according all of them a 100A fuse should blow in 5-10second with 200A current and with 100A fuse should hold at least 100second or to be more accurate all the charts stopped at 100s.
Anyway very interesting video I think I have never seen testing of fuses before.
However, the appliance is designed properly from a quality manufacturer where it can handle the overcurrent for a short duration and the manufacturer tells you what fuse and what type
This helped out alot thank you
Thank you for demonstration of fuse links... For the last false amperage fuse I thought it is slow blow fuse and if you have 100 A only it will break after some time but after you have break up the cover I think it is bad design.
Nice test. I am totally surprised. I assumed the Victron and Blue Sea would have been more accurate! Great information!
I asked seller about datasheet for Victron fuse, will see what is there.
They are completely in line with their curve on the data sheet as far as my test went they are designed for you to their specific equipment where there is massive in rush. Also a failure is going to be dramatic and drawing a lot of current they will blow
Those cheap fast ones rated at about 10% above the maximum surge of the inverter is what I use as a last ditch protection.
I really enjoyed that video which one would you recommend please let me know thank you
Could you do one more test with the ANL fuses please? The concern is that they don't break fast enough with very large inrush of current eg 200-300A, or that they weld together? People say to get the more expensive fuses because of this. Would be good to bust that myth
It doesn't matter, anl and any of these other fuses that he's testing are not safety rated for lithium batteries literally he failed to test the one type of fuse thats safety rated for lithium iron phosphate. Please look into it because lifepo4 is actually able to push thousands of amps through your wire when it's shorted depending on the size of the battery bank. Seriously please just look up the info
@@eksine and wich type of fuse is the one that is good for lifepo4 batteries?
@@and7rei the only fuse rated to handle lifepo4 is class T. and please know that AIC, ampere interrupt capacity is extremely important. Also extremely important is with a class T fuse you must use a fast-acting fuse do not use slow blow or delayed fuses, it's extremely important that you understand that. A guy on a boat tested his current passing 13,000 amps through a short, a class t fuse provides 20,000 AIC. Midnight solar has a circuit breaker rated for 10,000 AIC which you're not supposed to use but honestly I would use it
@@eksine there are numerous other types that are safe
It’s really important to know that a device that’s rated at 100 A is less likely to draw 110 A during a failure. It is way more likely to draw several thousand amps and blow a fuse
Very good video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
". Easing current to max in a short interval shows the peak rupture rating, victron inverters have a high peak ability and that is why we use these fuses so the inverter can deliver peak current at times.
When high current is present over a longer period the heat rises and victron fuses blow, that is how they should be tested" Please see the victron inverter spec sheets.... victron can supply over nominal power for some duration of time.
Fuse is supposed to blow before wire catches fire.
!00 amp means 100 amp continuous.
A severe overload or short would produce much more than that.
Time to read the datasheets ;)
here is what I got from seller: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Midi,-Mega-and-ANL-fuses,-and-fuse-holders-EN.pdf
Circuit protective devices will perform different when testing for overload compared to short circuit failure. Test and record them again but under fault conditions and see the difference compared to your overload results from this test.
Thanx for testing,I was wondering about that resetable ones???
I put the settable fuse in line with another fuse. Double my chances of protecting my wire and the settable can be used to switch off the circuit if needed.
Those are terrible odds if it doubles the chance of it protecting the wire it means that there’s a chance it’s not going to work that isn’t good
Fuses are rated 100A for x amount of minutes... You have fast blow fuses and slow fuses.
You need to see if they hold 100A. And check the specs on the fuses first.
I agree, i size fuses above the max expected current, Im using 300amp 200amp and 100amp ANL. great to see them blow at the rated current. those victron are normally inside their inverters. as max current on mine would be 166amps. and for short time even higher. seems they are doing what you would expect
I just bought a couple of 250A mega fuses and was wondering. why my fuses are 2mm width and your victron (8:13) appears wider.
Hmm... I think I bought fake fuses.
There are Chinese brands that makes the fuses at a okay quality, but they cannot infringe on the patent of the original
This is brilliant. Real testing. Good setup to get DC loads that high - i like it!. Thanks for sharing...
3:50 Use a resistor before touching.
Glad I went with ANL.
Great test to see, I want the fuse to blow at the rated amperage. These type of fuses are to protect the wire, not the devices. Devices should have there own protection fuses.
Quite simply you are not buying a fuse you are buying an improperly made piece of metal hair because they do not blow out their rated current in this case you are buying one that is substandard
I would like to see what the meter is clamped on... numbers don't line up
My worry is if you have 4 or more batteries and an error in one meaning the other 3 dump their load into the broken battery, the fuse pops but then arcs due to the extreme amps causing a fire.
You need a completely different type of fuse that is filled with the sand
Lithium batteries require a class T fuse, all of the fuses you showed are safety hazards and no manufacturer recommends them
thanks for letting me know, l'll check class T fuses.
@@SolarEngineering yes and please know that AIC, ampere interrupt capacity is extremely important. Also extremely important is with a class T fuse you must use a fast-acting fuse do not use slow blow or delayed fuses, it's extremely important that you understand that. A guy on a boat tested his current passing 13,000 amps through a short, a class t fuse provides 20,000 AIC. Midnight solar has a circuit breaker rated for 10,000 AIC which you're not supposed to use but honestly I would use it
Hey, could you point me to a good source for the requirement for T class fuses? Thanks in advance. I've heard it repeated about the T class but can't find original source for said info.
@@CraigThorne also just to explain why AIC ampere interrupt capacity is important is because let's say you try to use these fuses in the video that are not rated for lithium iron phosphate, what then happens is the fuse will blow and then the current will simply jump The junction negating the entire purpose of the fuse in the first place, I think they call it arcing
@@CraigThorne my other replies keep getting deleted I'm not sure why. Basically what I said is on the samlex pst1500 watt inverter instruction manual it is stated there. Another fact is look up how many amps can lithium iron phosphate push through a short, then compare it to the AIC ampere interrupt capacity rating of the fuses shown in the video. What then happens is called arcing even though the fuse broke it will jump that junction because again of the AIC mismatch. So lithium iron phosphate I have heard was able to push 13,000 amps through before the wires melted on this guy's boat, now look at the AIC rating of these fuses it's like 3,000 or 5,000 amps
The one "waterproof" is not a fuse. It is an automatic circuit breaker with ignition protector. It should allow to pass 100Amps within 1 hour. And more amps you give to it the faster it will switch off. For example it may switch off at 150A after 2 minutes. So I would say it does not work quite correctly switching off at once at 100A exactly. But at least it works.
While fuses must be distroyed at once when they reach 100-110A.
Automatic circuit breakers and destroyable fuses max amps are counted in a different way.
I just watch someone else’s test on circuit breaker and their 100a went at 240ish which is concerning, we generally don’t have the capacity to test for function at home to know which to trust
Photonicinduction (thank god he's back) recently did an awesome video popping giant fuses. He used a huge capacitor bank and since it's just a short pulse, he had to greatly exceed the rating of the fuse to get it to pop.
Love Photon, but Not sure his return was for good.
@@HighTechLab yea he came back for 1 or 2 videos and has disappeared again. 🙁
Fuses aren’t really designed to break instantly at the rated current. There mostly designed to protect against shorts. As others have pointed out a thermal fuse has a time element as well, so if you tried to pass 110 amps through the Victron fuse for an extended period of time it might have blown. Fuses should be designed to carry the maximum load your inverter can pull for peak (normally twice the rated kW) plus some headroom for short periods and the half that power for continuous. I’d say the Victron fuse is doing exactly what it was designed to do. And knowing Victron they probably have a data sheet with the parameters for the fuse. BTW that CB you got is not very good. I’d stick with Blue Sea or Midnight Solar for DC high current circuit breakers.
Thank you for the info.
Here is Victron datasheet: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Midi,-Mega-and-ANL-fuses,-and-fuse-holders-EN.pdf
so you have to double the theoric charge on chinese fuses?
@@rOSScOGITANS try and get a data sheet because there are many Chinese brands that are okay just search the brand-name up online and they will probably be a data sheet on the website
shoulda measured the voltage drop across all of them too. would have been interesting.
Generally speaking, the manufacturer of equipment specifies what type of fuse the equipment will probably be fine with that
Спасибо за обзор, как раз купил на Али такой флажковый, аж на 250А )) но мне он нужен больше как размыкатель цепи .
Bei neu Anschluss des Wechselrichters / Mpptladereglers immer eine Lampe 12/24v od Lastwiderstand dazwischen um die Elkos im Gerät vorzuladen...! 😉
Looks like the ANL worked well. Good to know, as everyone pushes the more expensive t-class fuses.
None of these would be safe on lithium batteries so there is a reason why other types of fuse may be used
What is the advertised Voltage of each fuse at its current rating?
There are many different types of fuses and they all have their appropriate uses. All fuses should be able to handle their full current rating indefinitely. Most manufacturers will have a graph that shows how long it will take the fuse to blow under different loads. That cheap fuse should not have popped bellow or at 100 amps. The resettable ones have a problem with internally overheating and tripping well below their rated current. If you use the resettable type buy from a quality manufacturer.
Hi, you have to consider the characteristics of the fuses when doing this test.
Yes that's true however since he only does lithium none of these fuses are even safe to use, he fails to test the one type of fuse rated for lithium batteries, which for some reason isn't common knowledge even by the RUclips creators, it's just lazy research
@@eksine Please link in your video with the correct testing procedure.
Yes we all know he should have used the data sheet for the fuses but your comments are way over the top. It's pretty easy to criticize but not so easy to get off of your butt and actually make a video so we can all see what an expert you are.
@@Dreadlk I've made videos where I've identified and solved Honda's transmission issues from 1999 to 2006 and onwards. I made over 15 hours of rebuild videos. Solving a problem that nobody else has figured out. Right now I'm learning how to do body work and paint cars. Next I'll be converting this van into a camper and do some solar motorized work on it. I just put the information for him on a platter and he's thankful if you don't appreciate it then go do your own research I don't have time for lazy people. And over the top? It's common knowledge you doofus, it's simply not common knowledge to people who don't do their research
@@Dreadlk also read my comments on the other comment somewhere on here, I explained everything there or most of it
@@Dreadlk he pinned my comment to the top, did you miss it somehow, dude like I said if people are gonna be lazy I cannot help them, read the pinned comment
This is great test. I'm about to add a 150A fuse to my 1500W car battery inverter to step it up to 120V. A 900W microwave could draw 2500W when start but only for a few milliseconds which is equivalent to 200A. Do you think if that'll triple the fuse? Thanks.
Wow. I’d expect much better from the Victron fuses. Good test.
This was not a good explaination on how fuses should work
I would expect you to also Google how is an inverter that can do 200% overload going to be fine on a fuse that blows below the rated current so this is within specification devices do not overload it a little bit if it fails it goes bang and then fuse goes regardless
DIN standard say, current overload 1,14 times fuse should broke after 1hr and more then 12.5 times - less then 1hr
ANL wins here for me. Fuse must break the circuit sooner, than power source/wiring will blow up. So with these guys we keep device safe.
lol
The fuse is really only going to blow in a dramatic failure in the nature of a failure that will blow a fuse. It will likely draw several thousand amps for a second.
I've seen the same with all types of Chinese fuses - they don't blow at the specified amperage, usually 200%+ is required to trip them. They are using cheaper metals to match a price point, or straight out lie to sell things to distributors. Stick with name brands like Littlefuse and Bussman - these are meant to prevent fires and device damage - don't cheap out on a fuse!
4:49 Victron 100A fuses is clearly the winner... It lasted 2x longer! 😅😅😅😅
I prefer fuses with windows - to physically inspect if they are blown or not.
You will need an ohmmeter to check Victron fuses.
Victron have ones with windows however they are quite expensive in terms of fuses to get that type also that bus bar has LEDs to tell you the fuse state
Should have tested a 100 amp CQ square d breaker.
I have a wagon inverter 8000 w wagon instructions telling me to get a anl 800 amp fuse I can't find that nowhere can you help me out
great test well done
Well done 👍
But now you have me third🤔 am I using the right fuses? 🤷♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
Nice test👍🏻
with the Victron fuse then a 200A capable wire should be used? otherwise will not blow fast and wire will get REALLy REALLY hot. Am i Missing something? the should we used derated Victron Fuses, example: for a 100amp cable use a 50/60amp Victorn fuse?
Definitely not one thing that is worth knowing Victron over spec wire size but you’re not going to overload a fuse a little bit it’s going to be overloaded by 1000 A in a short
Very unique test. You've thought of everything. Thumbs up. 👍🏻
Thanks for the feedback.
Very good channel.
Thanks and welcome
is it because Victron equipment is designed with a peak amperage rating which is double than its continuous rating?
Actually that is not the case. It’s simply the fact that the fuse is properly designed. The other other ones are below specification. Also an inverter would not fail by using 10 A more. It would fail by shorting out so the fuse would work
I wonder if that Victron fuse could be a counterfeit?
It just follows the cracked trip curve essentially for breaking as a mega fuse different fuses have different times and different sustained overload ratings. That is why the types exist
Thanks
COOP
...
Wow, excellent test! I am soo very disappointed in victron. I've been running 6-300 amp and fuses for a while with no issues. I blew one but it was my own fault. They seem somewhat ok and they're way cheap. Excellent content THANKYOU!
A lot of people believe the Victor are best. Keep in mind that these tests are not valid. Fuse ratings also take into consideration time and temperature. Plus he did not consult the fuse data sheets.
Electron fuses good with air equipment as things I converters can use a lot more power than their rating for a few seconds also you don’t just overload the circuit by five or 10 A in most cases a dead short is a dead short and draws 1000 amp so the fuse blows these are meant to be resilient for continuous loads and they work this waybut it is a slow blow
maybe u need resistor to precharge the capacitor to avoid spark dmg
very useful. Thank you
The 100amp Fuse that Passed over 200amps for they maybe Rated to 48 volts and some are Rated for up to 240 volt or More and and if you ran there max Voltage with there Max amps it would blow at around 100amps and being more then Likely your Running Low Voltage Like 1.5V - 48 Volts and Yes Amps are the Main Factor but Voltage will add More Heat to the Fuse at the Same amps and I wouldn't want a 100 Amp Fuse Blowing right at 100amps for it will more then Likely be Running Always Hot when Running 90amps and when things go bad enough to go from 90amps to 250amps is Good for most times if your Running 90amps and things do go bad and Need the Fuse to Blow it don't just Draw a Little bit more like 120 Amps it go's to Double or More so from 90 amps to 180 amps or MORE and them 100amp Fuses that Blow at 225+ will Run Cooler Temps and the ones that Blow at 100amps if your running 90 amps they will Blow more often and they will Run Hotter and the Breaker that ran 90 amps was a 1st for a lot of them don't that is a Good one it Seams. for the Video that was very good and Thank you.
nice quality video, what camera are you using?
iphone 11 pro
Im md israfil hossen medin baingladhes 100amr sarkit odar 10 pic peraic ?
Great job! Good to see the comparison side by side. Btw, does it make any difference if the fuse is on the positive or negative side/wire?
I think it only goes on the positive side but I’m no electrician
@@simondelaney2958 Positive. Although i fused both my battery poles just to sleep better at night ^^.
They work equally well on the + or - side, no difference if the current is the same.
HOWEVER fuses are typically installed on the + side so that in case of issues the cabling on the - side never gets interrupted and therefore remains grounded (in addition to the dedicated chassis ground wires).
Very interesting the overshoot on current on 100a fuse thanks Ian food for thought. Looks like the resetable fuse is safer
The protective device should be able to allow a 25% overload