I had a breaker like this in my boat. The thing LITERALLY lit on fire-in my bilge...near my gas tank...im lucky to be alive. Glad I clean the bingle so no oil/gas vapors, I had to cut the wires off and twist them together with the addition of 10ft of steel leader wire to handle the current
Measure the voltage across the breaker at different amps, all thermal breakers have differing trip times because they all have to heat up to trip. More important breakers use curves graphs to show how long to trip at differing amps.
Chinesium. Problem IMO is the small silver coated contact. U can see the arcing marks in the silver, there is arcing happening at the contact 'patch' so it isn't making contact over enough surface area, the arcing causes resistance & heat , heat opens the connection. Contacts have to be adequate size & also machined accurately so there will be enough contact area to pass full volts & amps.
Doug, thanks for the PSA. I have been looking at a DC circuit breaker for a long time, but didn't want to pay a lot of money or having to deal with having extra fuses. That answers the question, an expensive breaker is cheaper than a good inverter, or fire damage. I like these types of valuable videos.
Fantastic in depth tear down. I remember thinking my power inverter was faulty, and couldn't understand why my grossly oversized cables were heating up. Ended up being this cheap style breaker giving me headaches. I rarely subscribe, but I'm happy to have your channel as my third subscription. Top quality information.
Yeah those are known to be absolute crap. Cheap Chinese breakers are an absolute joke. You need to spend more money on higher quality, safety certified and UL listed DC breakers. And that BMS is dead simple and works great for most circumstances, but you will permanently destroy your cells if you charge while freezing. Because that bms does not have a temp sender with low temp charging protection. Also the OCPD on daly can be pretty inaccurate. Try buying higher quality electrical components and you won't be let down.
I live in sunny South Florida, where freezing temps aren't an issue, but you're 100% correct about no low temp protection. I'll add a notation in the video for others. Just like you and many others, I learn which products are good, and which are bad after testing them. Thanks for watching!
I use a T Tocas Superior E9-90 that costs $26. This one has multiple S.A.E and UL certifications. It's also listed as waterproof and ignition protected. It doesn't have the subsurface lug issue and I have had no noticeable issues with it's operation nor any over-current trips even with my system cranked in freezing or hot weather. For reference, my sound system is a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12 sub-woofers powered by a Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D Prime amplifier and a RFC2D digital capacitor.
Im so glad you posted this video. I have been using the same 300 amp circuit breaker in my RV and its been popping off prematurely. Thanks for the in sight.
I'd recommend against that Mini ANL fuse holder... very cheap and the plastic will just melt under load, leaving exposed metal that still hasn't broken apart... very dangerous.
I am a Tech in West Australia. I have had the same problem with these Audio Breakers. Three different units so far. First one showed up on a 4 WD DC to DC setup. Thought the Smart Alternator was cutting in & our. Turned out to be large volt drop across Breaker bolts. The next problem breaker was a 250A unit (similar to the good unit you showed) That Breaker used with a 2000w inverter trips out at 130A. They all appear to be made in China (most everything is) but finding one with SAE or some decent spec sheet guaranty is hard to find. A flat 100A fuse you suggested just can’t be used when you want to switch off to isolate. Cheers
I bought a couple of those years ago and never used them because I wanted to test them first. I never got around to it. Thanks for saving me the headache of either testing them myself or more likely swapping out components that didn't work properly.
No problem Brandon! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you! ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
@@electronicsNmore Absolutely! I rang that Bell long ago LOL you're definitely on my top 5 RUclips channels. In no particular order they would be AVE, Big Clive, Project Farm, ElectronicsNmore and solar by Will Prowse.
I think you might have just helped me diagnose an issue in my 12v system. I have a similar 200 amp breaker between my battery and the rest of the the electrical. After about 5-10 minutes under highish load (around 100 amps), my inverter, solar charge controller, and other devices powered through the breaker all shut off and immediately restart. Nothing shows up in the BMS app to indicate I've exceeded its 130 amp max output setting. I assumed it was either a problem with my BMS or with my inverter because the breaker never actually tripped. Based on your video, I'm thinking that maybe the breaker is heating up causing a temporary disconnect without actually causing the breaker to trip. I never thought it might be the $25 breaker I bought on Amazon. I didn't know much about breakers so I didn't realize that a $25 dollar breaker was "cheap". I've ordered a Blue Sea breaker and after I install it I hope my random micro-outages will be in the past!
Indeed, Looks like junk from the top down. Something worth considering is that generally fuses are intended for overload protection and fuses for short circuit protection.
This style of breaker works fine as long as you don’t buy cheap crap one!! I was having drama’s with 60 amp no name unit tripping with only a 30 amp load. Went to a 100amp cheap unit same problem started tripping due to screw terminals getting hot. Swapped it out for a 40 amp blueseas breaker and it has not false tripped once or got warm at all. The old saying apply’s here. “You get what you pay for”
I would recommend using a commercial 200 A breaker for a high amp potentially fire causing use case like these batteries. Or a 200 amp fuse at bare minimum. You will want to watch eev blog's video on glass fuses before going the fuse route though. Some fuses can vary greatly in how fast or slow they blow in certain conditions.
These type of breaker switches do not have a magnet to draw off the DC arc. They are good for 2-5 load breaks and that's it. Don't use it as a switch under load. Just like you shouldn't use a AC circuit breaker as a switch.
This is not necessarily true. 1kA sure, some magnets to extend the arc, oil to quench the arc, etc all help. At 200a though the silver contacts when properly sized, with enough plating and strong enough return springs to promote fast opening time are sufficient, break open some name brand starter contactors from little fuse, trombetta, etc will reveal this is sufficient for 50,000-100,000 make/brake cycles
I noticed something that could explain part of the problem. I don't know if it was like that prior to disassembly, or was a result of the disassembly process, but right in the center of the bi-metal plate, there is an obvious dent. That dent would definitely affect accuracy. If it occurred during the process of taking it apart, then please disregard... Either way, that breaker fittingly, received a hammer... Great, informative video as usual!
If you want to try a better breaker, look at the Rockford Fosgate brand. I have ran a 12k winch for a good pull and it worked a premium. The style you have shown also don't make a good contact on the input and output
2:56 "...when you do this..." weren't you hindering the little red button from moving thus preventing it from latching? 3:50 yet when you did not touch it, it still did not latch... so it is bad
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i used Eaton Cooper Bussmann 187 Series Reset Circuit Breakers 30 and 75 amp. $49.50 each but well worth it. i also use max wiring size on my solar project. for 200 amp id use midnite solar.
@@electronicsNmore i found you researching SWIPOWER/CNSWIPOWER 3000W/6000W off-grid pure sine wave inverter. very well done and you have earned a subscribe from me.
Nice vid. Well illustrated. I use square D ac breakers. QM breakers are rated at 60vdc and QO breakers are rated at 48vdc. NOT the ones you find at home despot. You can find these at electrical supply outlets.
Thanks for the teardown and analysis of this type of breaker. I have always heard bad things about them because of nuisance tripping. Good to understand why. I like the battery pack too.
Steer clear of any protective gear (circuit breakers, fuses, switches, etc) that doesn’t have a manufacturer’s brand/logo on it. Also beware of fakes that have a false brand/logo on them. If it’s half price or less than the rrp, it’s likely a fake or inferior. Unfortunately reliable brands have enormous markups for the distributors and retailers, making these fakes and inferiors so attractive!
So, is anyone surprised that Chinese products don't operate anywhere near to spec. Great teardown. I always work off the premise, of 50% max., for any sizing of products. Would be interesting to see a comparison, between the good makes: bet they don't use brass, for conductivity. I've also bought non-insulated crimp terminals, from Amazon, that were Chinese. Guess what: they weren't plated copper, either. Plated brass; at best, with a low %, of copper. I could tell, by the colour: very pale.
@3.01 Bad Design, Well yes but it wasn't designed to be Good. It was designed to Resemble the Buss brand of quality breakers. If people buy the cheapest Chinese knock-off, what are they really expecting? I guess this video is targeting the 'Not very Brilliant' DC project builder! Also, if anyone is playing with voltage higher than 12 volts, like 24, 36 or 48 you need to be very careful about your fuse selection, if you go that route. A lot of fuses are too short for higher DC voltage. They can 'blow' and allow current to flow because an arc is jumping the gap created in the blown fuse! I would just like to say,. If you don't want a fire or worse. DON'T USE CHEAP CHINESE JUNK! There's a lot of things that you can cut corners on but your wiring isn't it... Nice Video! Ya'll Take Care and be safe, John
It appears you purchased a couple of the cheap chinesium knock-offs. Once you find a good supplier on eBay, these type of breakers work just fine. I have a few 150-250 amp breakers of this style that all trip within 10% of rated current. And $15 to $20 is a whole lot cheaper than $100 - $200 for a Blue Sea equivalent. The key is to look for breakers that have brand and UL listing info on them. Its also a lot safer to throw a $15 breaker into a new system, than to hold off until you can afford $100+ for a new breaker.
5:16 As seen on your thermal cam, it was the part of the wire under the black heat shrink tubing that was heating up the most. 6:23 "..this brass section..." OK... if that is brass, then it is definitely NOT FIT for high current. It should be pure copper. 8:00 this 2nd test is convincing.
Glad you made this video, I have 2 of these breakers one on my truck amplifiers and one on my boat for the 24vdc trolling motor. I will look for the BUSS breakers right away! Thanks again!
Glad I could help! Be sure to rate thumbs up and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thank you ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
A 200 amp (standard-rated) breaker should trip at a 200 amp spike. Constant load rating is 80% or 160 amps. That breaker should have been able to handle 154 amps without overheating and tripping. Just like their battery ratings, you never know what your going to get. Thanks for the informative videos!
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This is an interesting fact, since this is different to Europe: In Europe the rated current of a breaker is the maximum continuous current. Depending on the characteristic of the breaker (there are several different available) the breaker should trip at a current of 1.05 to 1.5 times of the rated current, if they have an additional magnetic based short circuit detection this should trigger at 1.5 (circuit breakers in Europe usually have a thermal based over current protection plus a magnetic based short curcuit protection)
Each time a DC breaker is tripped under load an arc etches the contact faces. Each additional use will cause heat rises due to poor contact. Start with quality and use with respect. Frequently measuring the voltage drop across the terminals will give a great heads up to pending failures.
I also had a problem with these 200A resettable fuses. It did trip from high current correctly. So I reset the fuse. But the battery connection became very "flaky" like working for a few minutes, then just stopping for no apparent reason because the fuse was *not* tripped. Yet I couldn't get power in or out of the battery. Could't figure it out for a while and frustratingly had to start taking apart my system to try to find the problem. The problem was the fuse itself! I tested its resistance from pole to pole and it had a huge 1MΩ resistance! I bypassed the DC fuse and confirmed the problem was definitely the DC fuse. For a while, I considered my BMS was messed up. The BMS has its own MOSFET type software driven fuse. But it was *not* the BMS. Also, I had one 100A fuse (of the same style) for a different part of the system. It kept on tripping prematurely at 31A to 33A. Lucky I was able to return that one to Amazon for full refund because my charger regularly hits those current levels as part of its regular specified operation. Now I just use a regular non-resettable ANL fuse with some spare fuses around. But I like the resettable feature because you can also use these fuses as switches to disable/enable parts of your circuit for maintenance/upgrades etc. Still looking.
13;25, The pressure on the contact may be substandard. As the concave plate started to heat up at 150a the pressure on the contact weakens even more, in-turn, increasing resistance / heat production, popping the device prematurely. As pointed out, poor quality device in several areas.
I have an anl, 100 amp fuse holder, and over a short amount of time, a couple months, it provides power, for a 1000, watt, inverter, and the fuse holder melts, o already replaced it a couple months ago, and its doing the same thing again, not sure why, and I use it to power a coffee pot, 5 cup, and to power a battery charger, to charge a marine, deep cycle agm battery, I'm assuming, I'm going to have to increase, the wire size, from 4awg, to 0 awg?
I wish I had watched this video before buying 5 of these rated for 60amp. I can only assume that even if these are marked as rated for 300amps, they are all the same inside and only capable of 50-60amps as I watched a clip where the guy tested where these would hold the amount of current going through them.
My alleged 209 amp one kept tripping at 100 amps. Furthermore, that plastic arm which you swivel down to reset the breaker is so flimsy where it connects to the shaft that it cracked and no longer moves the shaft. Bought another one...and surprise surprise....both faults repeated.
Thanks for informing video I have 4 different types of these the two I’m gonna use are Allen set screw I do have the same type as you show. I got the Allen type and I got about two hundred more amps then I needed at the battery but I got fuses at my amps if they don’t work I’ll have to change out to better or fuses up thanks again!
Sorry you had to deal with another barely/poorly, designed/engineered, piece of crap, but we appreciate you sharing your experiences. It's good folks like you sharing these things honestly that makes YT worth our time, thanks!
I've had several of those breakers. Typically they have the same housing with the current rating as in the video. Those are defective. I have ordered several that say waterproof and ignition protected on the front and those work just fine. Those breakers are physically a different size slightly.
Hi Mitch. It's generic. If you see the exact same housing, lever, and reset button, regardless of color, avoid it. I posted a link where you can find other breakers. Thanks for watching!
Thanks, as a retired electrician I was hoping to use c/b's instead of fuses in my DIY, Lifepo4 system on my boat. I suppose it was laziness being able to throw a c/b instead of replacing a fuse, but I think I will go "old school". Fuses are fiddly, but reliable.
Dunno about those more expensive name brand DC resettable fuses. You go on Amazon and people complain about the same type of problems happening on those expensive resettable fuses also. Apparently, DC fuses are much more tricky to implement than AC fuses due to some physics I don't yet fathom. But a big contributor to this the sparking *oxidation* from rapid connect/disconnect under load. The switch *always* sparks if there is load at the time of connect/disconnect. The spark oxidizes the metal at contact point which deteriorates the conductor. Not sure how household AC fuses deal with it as the same thing happens inside them as well. So each time you switch the fuse under load, you damage the conductive part a little bit. The only way to deal with sparking problem long-term is to use a resistor or "sacrificial" part of the conductor that is active only during the very small period of time at the moment of first contact or disconnect. So, during connection, the resistor/sacrifice makes first contact. Conversely, during disconnect, the resistor/sacrifice is last to lose contact. So if the "expensive" fuse doesn't have this feature, the same type of heating problems will eventually plague them as well.
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one bad thing if using brass, it does not have very good conductivity as pure copper. Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems The differences in electrical conductivity of various materials used in marine electrical products are often not well understood. Making assumptions about the electrical conductivity of a material because it looks similar to another conductive material of known ampacity can lead to disastrous results. Perhaps the most common form of this error is the substitution of brass or bronze for copper in electrical applications. Brass is only 28% as conductive as copper. Some bronzes are as low as 7% as conductive as copper! Copper is the standard by which electrical materials are rated and conductivity ratings are expressed as a relative measurement to copper. These ratings will frequently be expressed as "28 IACS". IACS is the abbreviation for International Annealed Copper Standard and the number preceding "IACS" is the percentage of conductivity a material has relative to copper, which is considered to be 100% conductive. This does not mean that copper has no resistance (is 100% conductive in an absolute sense), but rather that it is the standard by which other materials are measured. The higher the % IACS, the more conductive the material is. This standard refers to a pure, "standard" copper having a resistivity of 1.7241 microhm-cm at 20°C (68°F). Armed with this knowledge it is interesting to examine the IACS conductivity values of some common materials.
I had a pair of these on a solar battery bank for the incoming current - they didn't last more than a few days before I sent them back due to concern about safety and operation.
Thanks... Do you know of a good make at a reasonable price? As im doing my own diy solar setup and need a 200amp dc breaker! Was looking at these, but not now 😱. 👍
Shucks, wish I had known sooner. Bought two 200-amp and four 50-amp. Still in box, haven't used them yet. Intent was for battery groups to the DC/AC inverters. Have since purchased large blade type 200-amp fuses.
Seems like you just have a cheap model of that breaker. I've used those quite often in many of my builds and they hold up just fine. Many of the other ANL fuses I've used melted under the same conditions. If I use ANL I typically had to buy the ceramic models.
I agree that breaker is crap, but 200A should be it's breaking capability, not triggering current. According to your tests I would say that this is ''200A'' breaker with 63A triggering current, medium or slow type. I like your videos very much. Keep going like this :)
No 200A should definitely be the triggering current. That would be like rating a 50A fuse 200A, it would blow as soon as you turn on the load. That is NOT how we rate electrical protection devices.
@@SnowGolem1TheL33t There is a difference between CIRCUIT BREAKER and automatic FUSE. Fuse should trigger at rated current, and circuit breaker should be able to brake electric circuit at rated current, circuit breaker, if it has triggering function, could be sett to trigger at less value than it's maximum rated current, according to circuit designed current. This is of course nonsense, because there is no way to sett triggering current, thus to achieve it's braking capacity current :)
@@electronicsNmore Frequency is the amount of hertz if my memory serves. Which only applies to alternating current. In direct current the power only flows one direction instead of back and forth. The reason that we are getting heat is because of resistance. Lack of electron flow. Which reduces the voltage and as a result increases the amperage needed to push the electrons. More heat is then produced causing more resistance. This vicious cycle is what is causing the breaker to pop at lower amperages. I work at a place that uses these breakers on occasions so I have one handy. I'm going to run a similar test to see if I can duplicate your results. I did however notice the switch problem you were pointing out.
@@electronicsNmore alright I thought I would post an update on the test I'm running. Yes there is a huge heat issue. The temperature at the connection terminals are between 95 and 110 fahrenheit. Now where I'm finding the most heat is the back side of the breaker. 166 fahrenheit when I tested it a couple minutes ago. But the breaker is still active. I will continue my test.
Hi there. I prefer Bussman / Blue Sea, but others of similar design will work. Definitely avoid the type seen in this video. Thanks for watching! amzn.to/3qOSJ7x (Amazon Affiliate Link)
I have a sxs and 1 night we rode went to sleep and woke up to my sxs almost on fire something shorted out so now I take battery cable off everytime it's going to be setting without me right there by it anyway I want to put a breaker on it NOT FOR PROTECTION but just to kill all power so I don't have to keep putting cables on and off a ac breaker would fit best in space I have what do yall recommend I use thanks in advance....
Had the same problems with my 400 amp circuit breakers they opened up at at least half their rated power , switched to fuses and no false trips , I really wanted circuit breakers cause of their disconnect ability so much easier than un bolting a fuse any know a reliable good 12 v circuit breaker brand?
One look at these things and you can see they can't safely manage 200Amps, Go look at your main breaker in your service panel: and remember, that one is for AC. DC current is even harder to break up.
and even with the BUSS 200A breaker: how the hell are you gonna attach something like an AWG2 cable to those little posts?? Don't forget, we're also supposed to de-rate for DC (now you're looking at AWG1 or 0...) To safely control 200A, you should use a distribution panel, and the Square-D QO breakers.
It seems clear that the contact area (referred to as the 'silver' part) is the problem. It's even discoloured where it's been arcing. This is a design flaw. While it's true that the parts have to be quite rigid (unsprung) to ensure disconnection in these cheap parts, it looks like the geometry is poor. Also, it's hard to believe that thermal response tolerances (of the enclosure and the plate) have be ensured in such a woeful device, even if the contact were perfect.
I had one worked like a resitor turned on Off I thought my Inverter was broken was only letting 3 volts through took I while to work out as when on indicator lights turned on !!
Those stud connection look tiny to handle 200amps. Is it smaller than 5/16? For such a large continuous current, I would imagine it should be at least ⅜".
Excellent video Doug! Watching the video I was wondering what the difference is between that circuit breaker & the breakers found on electrical home panels? Thanks for these videos.... 👍👍
Breakers in the house are a magnetic and thermal type, rated for AC only. You can't use an AC breaker on DC because, DC requires about 4 times the open gap to prevent arcing. There are some combination magnetic/thermal breakers made for DC but, they can only be used in a circuit where the current flow can only occur in one direction only because, these breakers have a polarity associated with them. If hooked up backwards, they don't trip, they just catch on fire. You would never want to use this type breaker between a solar charge controller and a battery bus for instance.
You're welcome Bill! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thank you ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
At least on Banggood, the description is talking about car audio system, so it seems the intended use is for powerful car amps. I think for that purpose it might be perfect, regarding it's price.
Use one of the fuses instead, much cheaper. Have a spare on hand, and make sure it's properly sized. Thanks for watching! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share the video link with others.
I have 2000w power inverter and I wand to install it on my car secondary battery . My question is what is better way install it with fuse or bussmann circuit breaker??
@@electronicsNmore I don’t mean which part of china brand I’m saying are the fancy ones sold at the huge marine stores just as bad ? And so my understanding is the tested and true method is just fusing everything instead of circuit breakers right?
Love your very helpful videos. I have an old damaged "Tevo Magneto Rechargeable LED Lantern" that I want to salvage the LED light panel from and run it directly of mains if possible. Could you please please please make a video of that. I don't want to through away the unit if there are still working LED lights on it.
Thanks for saving me from disappointment! Looking forward to your next video!
You're welcome! Many more videos to follow. Looking forward to your next great testing video. Thanks for watching!
Too late for me I’m afraid.
I had a breaker like this in my boat. The thing LITERALLY lit on fire-in my bilge...near my gas tank...im lucky to be alive. Glad I clean the bingle so no oil/gas vapors, I had to cut the wires off and twist them together with the addition of 10ft of steel leader wire to handle the current
Wow. It's project farm.
Test by yourself.
Measure the voltage across the breaker at different amps, all thermal breakers have differing trip times because they all have to heat up to trip. More important breakers use curves graphs to show how long to trip at differing amps.
Chinesium. Problem IMO is the small silver coated contact. U can see the arcing marks in the silver, there is arcing happening at the contact 'patch' so it isn't making contact over enough surface area, the arcing causes resistance & heat , heat opens the connection. Contacts have to be adequate size & also machined accurately so there will be enough contact area to pass full volts & amps.
I would also say that's the most likely problem. Thanks for watching!
Chinesium or NOTHING.
Doug, thanks for the PSA. I have been looking at a DC circuit breaker for a long time, but didn't want to pay a lot of money or having to deal with having extra fuses. That answers the question, an expensive breaker is cheaper than a good inverter, or fire damage.
I like these types of valuable videos.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore eNm... Have you tested the Bussmann DC circuit breakers... I see them used off grid and in the marine industry...
Fantastic in depth tear down.
I remember thinking my power inverter was faulty, and couldn't understand why my grossly oversized cables were heating up. Ended up being this cheap style breaker giving me headaches.
I rarely subscribe, but I'm happy to have your channel as my third subscription.
Top quality information.
Yeah those are known to be absolute crap. Cheap Chinese breakers are an absolute joke. You need to spend more money on higher quality, safety certified and UL listed DC breakers.
And that BMS is dead simple and works great for most circumstances, but you will permanently destroy your cells if you charge while freezing. Because that bms does not have a temp sender with low temp charging protection. Also the OCPD on daly can be pretty inaccurate.
Try buying higher quality electrical components and you won't be let down.
I live in sunny South Florida, where freezing temps aren't an issue, but you're 100% correct about no low temp protection. I'll add a notation in the video for others. Just like you and many others, I learn which products are good, and which are bad after testing them. Thanks for watching!
@DIY Projects That's true, can't say all.
blue sea makes good stuff but cost is high .those chines ones are crap .
Was going to say the same thing, that breaker is badly make can tell by pressing the test button and look if the breaker have extra movements
Put one on an E-Bike battery.. worked for a while (an hour?) then totally Open circuit with a Floppy Reset Lever.. Luckily pedals work too..
I use a T Tocas Superior E9-90 that costs $26. This one has multiple S.A.E and UL certifications. It's also listed as waterproof and ignition protected. It doesn't have the subsurface lug issue and I have had no noticeable issues with it's operation nor any over-current trips even with my system cranked in freezing or hot weather. For reference, my sound system is a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12 sub-woofers powered by a Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D Prime amplifier and a RFC2D digital capacitor.
Im so glad you posted this video. I have been using the same 300 amp circuit breaker in my RV and its been popping off prematurely. Thanks for the in sight.
Underrated video for sure
I would love to see your recommendation on an actually good breaker to use
Always good to see a real breakdown of cheap components. Thanks!
Glad you liked the video Joe! Be sure to share. Thank you
20 Dollar is not cheap
Replace the brass washer with a copper one.
I'd recommend against that Mini ANL fuse holder... very cheap and the plastic will just melt under load, leaving exposed metal that still hasn't broken apart... very dangerous.
I am a Tech in West Australia. I have had the same problem with these Audio Breakers. Three different units so far. First one showed up on a 4 WD DC to DC setup. Thought the Smart Alternator was cutting in & our. Turned out to be large volt drop across Breaker bolts. The next problem breaker was a 250A unit (similar to the good unit you showed) That Breaker used with a 2000w inverter trips out at 130A. They all appear to be made in China (most everything is) but finding one with SAE or some decent spec sheet guaranty is hard to find. A flat 100A fuse you suggested just can’t be used when you want to switch off to isolate. Cheers
I bought a couple of those years ago and never used them because I wanted to test them first. I never got around to it. Thanks for saving me the headache of either testing them myself or more likely swapping out components that didn't work properly.
No problem Brandon! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you!
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@@electronicsNmore Absolutely! I rang that Bell long ago LOL you're definitely on my top 5 RUclips channels. In no particular order they would be AVE, Big Clive, Project Farm, ElectronicsNmore and solar by Will Prowse.
Great video. I've always wanted to see inside one. I dont use these red and black ones anymore, I use the yellow and black one.
I think you might have just helped me diagnose an issue in my 12v system. I have a similar 200 amp breaker between my battery and the rest of the the electrical. After about 5-10 minutes under highish load (around 100 amps), my inverter, solar charge controller, and other devices powered through the breaker all shut off and immediately restart. Nothing shows up in the BMS app to indicate I've exceeded its 130 amp max output setting. I assumed it was either a problem with my BMS or with my inverter because the breaker never actually tripped. Based on your video, I'm thinking that maybe the breaker is heating up causing a temporary disconnect without actually causing the breaker to trip. I never thought it might be the $25 breaker I bought on Amazon. I didn't know much about breakers so I didn't realize that a $25 dollar breaker was "cheap". I've ordered a Blue Sea breaker and after I install it I hope my random micro-outages will be in the past!
Indeed, Looks like junk from the top down. Something worth considering is that generally fuses are intended for overload protection and fuses for short circuit protection.
This style of breaker works fine as long as you don’t buy cheap crap one!!
I was having drama’s with 60 amp no name unit tripping with only a 30 amp load. Went to a 100amp cheap unit same problem started tripping due to screw terminals getting hot.
Swapped it out for a 40 amp blueseas breaker and it has not false tripped once or got warm at all. The old saying apply’s here. “You get what you pay for”
I never said the style was bad, I said if it looks just like what you see in this video, don't buy it. Bussman and Blue Sea are OK.
I would recommend using a commercial 200 A breaker for a high amp potentially fire causing use case like these batteries. Or a 200 amp fuse at bare minimum. You will want to watch eev blog's video on glass fuses before going the fuse route though. Some fuses can vary greatly in how fast or slow they blow in certain conditions.
These type of breaker switches do not have a magnet to draw off the DC arc. They are good for 2-5 load breaks and that's it. Don't use it as a switch under load. Just like you shouldn't use a AC circuit breaker as a switch.
This is not necessarily true. 1kA sure, some magnets to extend the arc, oil to quench the arc, etc all help. At 200a though the silver contacts when properly sized, with enough plating and strong enough return springs to promote fast opening time are sufficient, break open some name brand starter contactors from little fuse, trombetta, etc will reveal this is sufficient for 50,000-100,000 make/brake cycles
good enough for me for small apliances as long as it triggers lower than what its rated for
I noticed something that could explain part of the problem. I don't know if it was like that prior to disassembly, or was a result of the disassembly process, but right in the center of the bi-metal plate, there is an obvious dent. That dent would definitely affect accuracy. If it occurred during the process of taking it apart, then please disregard... Either way, that breaker fittingly, received a hammer... Great, informative video as usual!
I did that. Lol.
@@electronicsNmore oh..ok... Might actually work better now! Haha...
If you want to try a better breaker, look at the Rockford Fosgate brand. I have ran a 12k winch for a good pull and it worked a premium. The style you have shown also don't make a good contact on the input and output
2:56 "...when you do this..." weren't you hindering the little red button from moving thus preventing it from latching?
3:50 yet when you did not touch it, it still did not latch... so it is bad
Thank you for the warning! I almost purchased some of those breakers! Now going with Bussmann! Thank you.
You're welcome Anthony! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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@@electronicsNmore Will do!
It's going to be bigger and bigger keep up the awesome content Sir like it. 👍
Thanks for watching! Glad you liked the video! Be sure to share.
I think you hit the nail on the head at 13:15. That BS dimple on the plate can't be making a great contact to the silver contact on the brass buss.
Thanks. I had one of these in my cart to buy. I will use fuses instead for my project. Excellent video!
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thanks was about to buy some of these off ebay but will avoid now after seeing this video and stick to midi fuses!
If the BMS has an external thermal sensor, simply connect a small OFF switch in parallel.
Good idea! Thank you!
i used Eaton Cooper Bussmann 187 Series Reset Circuit Breakers 30 and 75 amp. $49.50 each but well worth it. i also use max wiring size on my solar project. for 200 amp id use midnite solar.
Eaton makes good breakers. Midnite solar makes good stuff. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore i found you researching SWIPOWER/CNSWIPOWER 3000W/6000W off-grid pure sine wave inverter. very well done and you have earned a subscribe from me.
Nice vid. Well illustrated. I use square D ac breakers. QM breakers are rated at 60vdc and QO breakers are rated at 48vdc. NOT the ones you find at home despot. You can find these at electrical supply outlets.
Thank you! Yes, they can be used, but I think they only go up to 60 or 70A.
@@electronicsNmore QM go to 200 amps. I have a 2 pole 100 amp protecting my battery bank. Says rated for 60vdc right on the breaker. Surplus cost $25.
@@rocktech7144 You stole that, they're expensive.
@@rocktech7144 Hi RockTech, where is your source for sq d QM 60v breakers. Thanks
Thanks for the teardown and analysis of this type of breaker. I have always heard bad things about them because of nuisance tripping. Good to understand why. I like the battery pack too.
Thanks for watching!
I will be getting rid of all mine in my van thanks for sharing this
Steer clear of any protective gear (circuit breakers, fuses, switches, etc) that doesn’t have a manufacturer’s brand/logo on it. Also beware of fakes that have a false brand/logo on them. If it’s half price or less than the rrp, it’s likely a fake or inferior.
Unfortunately reliable brands have enormous markups for the distributors and retailers, making these fakes and inferiors so attractive!
So, is anyone surprised that Chinese products don't operate anywhere near to spec.
Great teardown. I always work off the premise, of 50% max., for any sizing of products. Would be interesting to see a comparison, between the good makes: bet they don't use brass, for conductivity.
I've also bought non-insulated crimp terminals, from Amazon, that were Chinese. Guess what: they weren't plated copper, either. Plated brass; at best, with a low %, of copper. I could tell, by the colour: very pale.
@3.01 Bad Design, Well yes but it wasn't designed to be Good. It was designed to Resemble the Buss brand of quality breakers.
If people buy the cheapest Chinese knock-off, what are they really expecting? I guess this video is targeting the 'Not very Brilliant' DC project builder!
Also, if anyone is playing with voltage higher than 12 volts, like 24, 36 or 48 you need to be very careful about your fuse selection, if you go that route. A lot of fuses are too short for higher DC voltage. They can 'blow' and allow current to flow because an arc is jumping the gap created in the blown fuse!
I would just like to say,. If you don't want a fire or worse. DON'T USE CHEAP CHINESE JUNK! There's a lot of things that you can cut corners on but your wiring isn't it...
Nice Video!
Ya'll Take Care and be safe, John
It appears you purchased a couple of the cheap chinesium knock-offs. Once you find a good supplier on eBay, these type of breakers work just fine. I have a few 150-250 amp breakers of this style that all trip within 10% of rated current. And $15 to $20 is a whole lot cheaper than $100 - $200 for a Blue Sea equivalent. The key is to look for breakers that have brand and UL listing info on them. Its also a lot safer to throw a $15 breaker into a new system, than to hold off until you can afford $100+ for a new breaker.
They are made in China, there's nothing to KO. The style shown in this video, same housing, same lever, same reset button,etc.....a definite avoid.
5:16 As seen on your thermal cam, it was the part of the wire under the black heat shrink tubing that was heating up the most.
6:23 "..this brass section..."
OK... if that is brass, then it is definitely NOT FIT for high current. It should be pure copper.
8:00 this 2nd test is convincing.
Glad you made this video, I have 2 of these breakers one on my truck amplifiers and one on my boat for the 24vdc trolling motor. I will look for the BUSS breakers right away! Thanks again!
Glad I could help! Be sure to rate thumbs up and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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A 200 amp (standard-rated) breaker should trip at a 200 amp spike. Constant load rating is 80% or 160 amps. That breaker should have been able to handle 154 amps without overheating and tripping. Just like their battery ratings, you never know what your going to get. Thanks for the informative videos!
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This is an interesting fact, since this is different to Europe: In Europe the rated current of a breaker is the maximum continuous current. Depending on the characteristic of the breaker (there are several different available) the breaker should trip at a current of 1.05 to 1.5 times of the rated current, if they have an additional magnetic based short circuit detection this should trigger at 1.5 (circuit breakers in Europe usually have a thermal based over current protection plus a magnetic based short curcuit protection)
Each time a DC breaker is tripped under load an arc etches the contact faces. Each additional use will cause heat rises due to poor contact. Start with quality and use with respect. Frequently measuring the voltage drop across the terminals will give a great heads up to pending failures.
Yes, the breaker should never be used as a switch when the load is connected.
I also had a problem with these 200A resettable fuses. It did trip from high current correctly. So I reset the fuse. But the battery connection became very "flaky" like working for a few minutes, then just stopping for no apparent reason because the fuse was *not* tripped. Yet I couldn't get power in or out of the battery. Could't figure it out for a while and frustratingly had to start taking apart my system to try to find the problem. The problem was the fuse itself! I tested its resistance from pole to pole and it had a huge 1MΩ resistance! I bypassed the DC fuse and confirmed the problem was definitely the DC fuse.
For a while, I considered my BMS was messed up. The BMS has its own MOSFET type software driven fuse. But it was *not* the BMS.
Also, I had one 100A fuse (of the same style) for a different part of the system. It kept on tripping prematurely at 31A to 33A. Lucky I was able to return that one to Amazon for full refund because my charger regularly hits those current levels as part of its regular specified operation.
Now I just use a regular non-resettable ANL fuse with some spare fuses around. But I like the resettable feature because you can also use these fuses as switches to disable/enable parts of your circuit for maintenance/upgrades etc. Still looking.
They're junk.
Nice presentation..! In future, would be good to measure voltage drop of switches, breakers and fuses at load currents. Milli-ohms matter at >100A...
Glad you liked it! I'll keep what you said in mind for future videos.
13;25, The pressure on the contact may be substandard. As the concave plate started to heat up at 150a the pressure on the contact weakens even more, in-turn, increasing resistance / heat production, popping the device prematurely. As pointed out, poor quality device in several areas.
Well done! Very thorough as usual.
Glad you liked it!
What's the voltage you're using? What's the rated voltage of the cheap breaker?
I have an anl, 100 amp fuse holder, and over a short amount of time, a couple months, it provides power, for a 1000, watt, inverter, and the fuse holder melts, o already replaced it a couple months ago, and its doing the same thing again, not sure why, and I use it to power a coffee pot, 5 cup, and to power a battery charger, to charge a marine, deep cycle agm battery, I'm assuming, I'm going to have to increase, the wire size, from 4awg, to 0 awg?
Interesting, thanks for sharing, I am gonna stick with mega fuse, mahalo!
I wish I had watched this video before buying 5 of these rated for 60amp. I can only assume that even if these are marked as rated for 300amps, they are all the same inside and only capable of 50-60amps as I watched a clip where the guy tested where these would hold the amount of current going through them.
My alleged 209 amp one kept tripping at 100 amps. Furthermore, that plastic arm which you swivel down to reset the breaker is so flimsy where it connects to the shaft that it cracked and no longer moves the shaft. Bought another one...and surprise surprise....both faults repeated.
Yep. Total garbage. Be sure to check out my solar and battery testing video playlists as well. Thanks!
Thanks for informing video I have 4 different types of these the two I’m gonna use are Allen set screw I do have the same type as you show. I got the Allen type and I got about two hundred more amps then I needed at the battery but I got fuses at my amps if they don’t work I’ll have to change out to better or fuses up thanks again!
Glad to help Harold! Be sure to check out my very wide range of videos and share. Thanks
Sorry you had to deal with another barely/poorly, designed/engineered, piece of crap, but we appreciate you sharing your experiences. It's good folks like you sharing these things honestly that makes YT worth our time, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, But it was to late for me, had it to learn the Hard way. Mine 200A Part could not hold 120A for 2 h now i use Mega Fuses.
MEGA fuses are a good way to go, and fairly inexpensive.
I've had several of those breakers. Typically they have the same housing with the current rating as in the video. Those are defective. I have ordered several that say waterproof and ignition protected on the front and those work just fine. Those breakers are physically a different size slightly.
Hey can you do a similar breakdown on a couple other brands like T Tocas ?
I'm new to solar stuff. But a hair dryer pulls 68 amps? Sorry I don't understand why when it only pulls 1500 watts roughly.
What is the brand name of the defective breaker. There are a lot of them out there and a large range of pricing
Hi Mitch. It's generic. If you see the exact same housing, lever, and reset button, regardless of color, avoid it. I posted a link where you can find other breakers. Thanks for watching!
I had one of those on my truck..... Not even a ton of current going through it- just internal/external electrics and it took a dump.
Glad you got rid of it!
have you measured the voltage drop across the breaker?
No, but the level of heat generated indicates it would be a lot.
Thanks, as a retired electrician I was hoping to use c/b's instead of fuses in my DIY, Lifepo4 system on my boat.
I suppose it was laziness being able to throw a c/b instead of replacing a fuse, but I think I will go "old school".
Fuses are fiddly, but reliable.
Midnite Solar sells proper bidirectional DC circuit breakers. I think some models are UL rated up to 120vDC.
Dunno about those more expensive name brand DC resettable fuses. You go on Amazon and people complain about the same type of problems happening on those expensive resettable fuses also. Apparently, DC fuses are much more tricky to implement than AC fuses due to some physics I don't yet fathom.
But a big contributor to this the sparking *oxidation* from rapid connect/disconnect under load. The switch *always* sparks if there is load at the time of connect/disconnect. The spark oxidizes the metal at contact point which deteriorates the conductor. Not sure how household AC fuses deal with it as the same thing happens inside them as well. So each time you switch the fuse under load, you damage the conductive part a little bit.
The only way to deal with sparking problem long-term is to use a resistor or "sacrificial" part of the conductor that is active only during the very small period of time at the moment of first contact or disconnect. So, during connection, the resistor/sacrifice makes first contact. Conversely, during disconnect, the resistor/sacrifice is last to lose contact. So if the "expensive" fuse doesn't have this feature, the same type of heating problems will eventually plague them as well.
Very interesting...thanks for the "post-mortem" operation!
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one bad thing if using brass, it does not have very good conductivity as pure copper. Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
The differences in electrical conductivity of various materials used in marine electrical products are often not well understood. Making assumptions about the electrical conductivity of a material because it looks similar to another conductive material of known ampacity can lead to disastrous results.
Perhaps the most common form of this error is the substitution of brass or bronze for copper in electrical applications. Brass is only 28% as conductive as copper. Some bronzes are as low as 7% as conductive as copper!
Copper is the standard by which electrical materials are rated and conductivity ratings are expressed as a relative measurement to copper. These ratings will frequently be expressed as "28 IACS". IACS is the abbreviation for International Annealed Copper Standard and the number preceding "IACS" is the percentage of conductivity a material has relative to copper, which is considered to be 100% conductive. This does not mean that copper has no resistance (is 100% conductive in an absolute sense), but rather that it is the standard by which other materials are measured. The higher the % IACS, the more conductive the material is. This standard refers to a pure, "standard" copper having a resistivity of 1.7241 microhm-cm at 20°C (68°F).
Armed with this knowledge it is interesting to examine the IACS conductivity values of some common materials.
Recommendations for breakers? Updating current system.
I had a pair of these on a solar battery bank for the incoming current - they didn't last more than a few days before I sent them back due to concern about safety and operation.
They have no business selling these, they're almost worthless. Thanks for watching
Why didn't u change the ground bigger as well?
Thanks... Do you know of a good make at a reasonable price? As im doing my own diy solar setup and need a 200amp dc breaker! Was looking at these, but not now 😱. 👍
Shucks, wish I had known sooner. Bought two 200-amp and four 50-amp. Still in box, haven't used them yet. Intent was for battery groups to the DC/AC inverters. Have since purchased large blade type 200-amp fuses.
Live and learn. Fuses are cheaper and reliable. Thanks for watching!
You were going to provide a link for the BMS?
Hi there. Look in the video description area. Thanks
Seems like you just have a cheap model of that breaker. I've used those quite often in many of my builds and they hold up just fine. Many of the other ANL fuses I've used melted under the same conditions. If I use ANL I typically had to buy the ceramic models.
I agree that breaker is crap, but 200A should be it's breaking capability, not triggering current. According to your tests I would say that this is ''200A'' breaker with 63A triggering current, medium or slow type.
I like your videos very much.
Keep going like this :)
No 200A should definitely be the triggering current. That would be like rating a 50A fuse 200A, it would blow as soon as you turn on the load.
That is NOT how we rate electrical protection devices.
@@SnowGolem1TheL33t There is a difference between CIRCUIT BREAKER and automatic FUSE. Fuse should trigger at rated current, and circuit breaker should be able to brake electric circuit at rated current, circuit breaker, if it has triggering function, could be sett to trigger at less value than it's maximum rated current, according to circuit designed current.
This is of course nonsense, because there is no way to sett triggering current, thus to achieve it's braking capacity current :)
Great, thanks for your solid information sir
What’s the brand?
I have always wondered how that thing could handle 200A. The post are TINY !!!!! I have a few of them in the box unopened.
Sell them at a yard sale. LOL
I was taught that electrons flow on the surface of a conductor. So correct me if I'm wrong, it's not the thickness of the plate, but the size.
Depends on the frequency.
@@electronicsNmore Frequency is the amount of hertz if my memory serves. Which only applies to alternating current.
In direct current the power only flows one direction instead of back and forth.
The reason that we are getting heat is because of resistance. Lack of electron flow. Which reduces the voltage and as a result increases the amperage needed to push the electrons. More heat is then produced causing more resistance. This vicious cycle is what is causing the breaker to pop at lower amperages.
I work at a place that uses these breakers on occasions so I have one handy. I'm going to run a similar test to see if I can duplicate your results.
I did however notice the switch problem you were pointing out.
@@Kendalon Correct, I answered the question fast. AC you get a "skin" effect, DC flows through.
@@electronicsNmore what kind of wire lug are you using? Is there a video on that? Cheap wire lugs can be a point of resistance and cause heat.
@@electronicsNmore alright I thought I would post an update on the test I'm running.
Yes there is a huge heat issue. The temperature at the connection terminals are between 95 and 110 fahrenheit.
Now where I'm finding the most heat is the back side of the breaker. 166 fahrenheit when I tested it a couple minutes ago. But the breaker is still active. I will continue my test.
Thanks for the video. Do you have a recommended 250A breakers for solar use?
Hi there. I prefer Bussman / Blue Sea, but others of similar design will work. Definitely avoid the type seen in this video. Thanks for watching!
amzn.to/3qOSJ7x
(Amazon Affiliate Link)
Thanks. Good analysis of show& tell
I have a sxs and 1 night we rode went to sleep and woke up to my sxs almost on fire something shorted out so now I take battery cable off everytime it's going to be setting without me right there by it anyway I want to put a breaker on it NOT FOR PROTECTION but just to kill all power so I don't have to keep putting cables on and off a ac breaker would fit best in space I have what do yall recommend I use thanks in advance....
Had the same problems with my 400 amp circuit breakers they opened up at at least half their rated power , switched to fuses and no false trips , I really wanted circuit breakers cause of their disconnect ability so much easier than un bolting a fuse any know a reliable good 12 v circuit breaker brand?
Don't forget Square-D's QO breakers are rated/listed for DC, up to 96V, AFAIR. Put them in one of those cheap little spa panels.
One look at these things and you can see they can't safely manage 200Amps, Go look at your main breaker in your service panel: and remember, that one is for AC. DC current is even harder to break up.
and even with the BUSS 200A breaker: how the hell are you gonna attach something like an AWG2 cable to those little posts??
Don't forget, we're also supposed to de-rate for DC (now you're looking at AWG1 or 0...)
To safely control 200A, you should use a distribution panel, and the Square-D QO breakers.
True! I've seen them. SQ-D is good.
It seems clear that the contact area (referred to as the 'silver' part) is the problem. It's even discoloured where it's been arcing. This is a design flaw. While it's true that the parts have to be quite rigid (unsprung) to ensure disconnection in these cheap parts, it looks like the geometry is poor. Also, it's hard to believe that thermal response tolerances (of the enclosure and the plate) have be ensured in such a woeful device, even if the contact were perfect.
As I learned, stick with Bussman and other high quality brands.
Just curious, the breaker should connect to positive or negative battery?
+
Fantastic video, ty for doing this test, those things have death written all over them. Will buy full sized Schneider or victron breakers.
I had one worked like a resitor turned on Off I thought my Inverter was broken was only letting 3 volts through took I while to work out as when on indicator lights turned on !!
They shouldn't be selling them.
I'd be willing to all the red "braker" brass buss piece from 10 amps to 200. Use the same size material.
Those stud connection look tiny to handle 200amps. Is it smaller than 5/16? For such a large continuous current, I would imagine it should be at least ⅜".
The look like they could handle around 80A, not 200A.
Excellent video Doug! Watching the video I was wondering what the difference is between that circuit breaker & the breakers found on electrical home panels? Thanks for these videos.... 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed the video Steve! They work very similar, a bimetallic strip, with springs. Some AC breakers are rated for DC. Thanks for watching!
Breakers in the house are a magnetic and thermal type, rated for AC only. You can't use an AC breaker on DC because, DC requires about 4 times the open gap to prevent arcing. There are some combination magnetic/thermal breakers made for DC but, they can only be used in a circuit where the current flow can only occur in one direction only because, these breakers have a polarity associated with them. If hooked up backwards, they don't trip, they just catch on fire. You would never want to use this type breaker between a solar charge controller and a battery bus for instance.
Good tear-down
Thanks for the investigation
You're welcome Bill! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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At least on Banggood, the description is talking about car audio system, so it seems the intended use is for powerful car amps. I think for that purpose it might be perfect, regarding it's price.
Amps is amps!
Thanks buddy. Almost just purchased a 150amp breaker for my car.
Use one of the fuses instead, much cheaper. Have a spare on hand, and make sure it's properly sized. Thanks for watching! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share the video link with others.
Are Attwood marine, manual circuit breakers good for like 12v 6-100Ah deep cycle batteries for outboard trolling motors?
I never tested them, the Bussman and Blue Sea I know are just fine. Thanks for watching!
My 120A Breaker looks like the same but its bigger as yours, looks like you have a wrong labled chineese version of it.
Read other comments. :-)
I got a cheap button breaker from eBay a 40 amp would that be bad too?
Only one way to find out. :-)
@@electronicsNmore yep I guess but I would hate to be on the water and it mess up
i bought the 300a as i can peak at 250a, if i run my 1.7kw kettle (150a) it trips before the water boils.....
These breakers are a joke.
I have 2000w power inverter and I wand to install it on my car secondary battery . My question is what is better way install it with fuse or bussmann circuit breaker??
Fuse is fine, size it properly and it will never blow.
@@electronicsNmore what size of fuse should I use for 2000w inverter pure sine wave ?
??
is your cable thick enough for 150Amps?
Yes, it's not the wire, the breaker is junk.
What is the brand of the breaker????
Brand is irrelevant. If it looks exactly like you see in the video, don't buy it.
@@electronicsNmore I don’t mean which part of china brand I’m saying are the fancy ones sold at the huge marine stores just as bad ? And so my understanding is the tested and true method is just fusing everything instead of circuit breakers right?
@@electronicsNmore are you saying ALL of these tiny marine circut breakers are cheap and dangerous or just no name Chinese ones?
Love your very helpful videos. I have an old damaged "Tevo Magneto Rechargeable LED Lantern" that I want to salvage the LED light panel from and run it directly of mains if possible. Could you please please please make a video of that. I don't want to through away the unit if there are still working LED lights on it.
How much power does it draw and what voltage?
@@electronicsNmore thanks for your reply. It says charging voltage: 220-240V , 50/60Hz and it had a 6V 4AH battery. I'm in Africa 😊