Excellent series, thank you. I've just opened up my turbocharger and found that there are cuts and nicks inside the turbo body (the bit where you say should be smooth). Do I really need a brand new turbocharger as a result of that? Would it still work as long as nothing is obstructing the new fan blades on the replacement cartridge? I appreciate there will probably be some turbulence in the intake but other than that, should be alright?
Hi Will, do you mean the part where the air inlet is hooked onto the turbo? I mean is this not the actual turbo cartridge, but where the vanes are close to the outside body. If you are replacing the turbo and the previous one touched the sides, hence the cuts, you could potentially use fine 1,000+ sandpaper and make it smooth. Maybe I did not understand the correct part that had cuts.
@@moremolecules Yes, you are absolutely correct in your understanding - on the air intake side, the fan had collided with the housing (as the shaft broke) and made the surface rough with scratches, dents and nicks. Thank you for your suggestion and idea - I will try that!
@@gaioshin Ahh, that is what I thought. You do not necessarily need a new housing. Coarse/Fine sandpaper should do the trick, but of course that depends on how deep the scratches are. If they are too deep, you will remove too much metal and I suspect less compression, but it should not be too big issue
Not really, but the heatshields are blocking access to everything, especially the turbo return and the bracket holding the turbo itself to the exhaust side. It probably can be done without taking the exhaust but it is difficult with the tight space.
@@moremolecules Thanks. I see you also replaced the oil feed pipe. Is this because you wanted to be sure that the pipe was not blocked and the reason for the blown turbo?
@@justinf1343 Yes, the old oil feed was the old filter design, i.e. smaller surface area and I replaced it with a newer design with much larger surface, so way less chance of it getting blocked. Some (probably most) people will get rid of the filter altogether, but that could lead to other problems as well, so I opted for the better design but with a filter.
Hi there, as far as I know or I am aware, the turbo is the same between the 75bhp and the 92bhp ones. The difference in the power output is the ECU mapping. Now, the turbo is different between the 92bhp and the 110bhp ones with the 110bhp having a VNT turbo and not the fixed geometry of the 75/92bhp ones. So, the 75bhp is mechanically exactly the same, only the ECU mapping is different. Hope that is helpful.
Part 1: ruclips.net/video/Q7S0qDBo314/видео.html Part 2: ruclips.net/video/Q30w90Vcs7U/видео.html Part 3: ruclips.net/video/QHY_uPbPfyg/видео.html Part 4: ruclips.net/video/l2A0_AV9OH0/видео.html Part 5: ruclips.net/video/wHnC8wPi0Qc/видео.html
You seem very knowledgeable with the 1.6HDi engine. I have a Citroen C4 1.6HDi and experiencing black smoke, changed the EGR and still the same, although appears quicker. It did stop for a while, when I unplugged the new EGR (just to see of that made a difference and it did for about 30 mins) and then returned, any ideas??? Been looking for air leaks for under boost. Turbo looks good and performs well. Thought it was an injector, no engine check light though and the smoke is black and sooty, so too much fuel and not enough air. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Gaz
Haha, I only appear so :-). Have a look at split hoses from the air filter to the intake, turbo rubber seal, the hoses to the intercooler, perhaps intercooler leak/hole somewhere. If I were you I would disconnect the MAF sensor (engine off) and then run it like this and see if it makes a difference. If you have access to Diagbox/Lexia, have a look at boost pressures, MAF sensor data, etc.
@@moremolecules Will do a thorough check for air leaks tomorrow and disconnect the MAF, if the problem corrects when the MAF sensor is disconnected, does it need cleaning or replacing? Thanks for your help!
@@gazsto9510 If it corrects after disconnecting MAF, it will likely need replacing, but maybe a clean will do, worth trying. I would clean the MAP sensor just atfer the intercooler.
Hi richardo, I absolutely agree, but this was way too tight and did not quite work out with extending it with the circlip pliers. It could be that the vibrations from the engine/turbo will slot it into place, but I just wanted to make sure the circlip is in place. I said gentle tapping, not hammering it into place.
Amazing video with excellent detail, you've made removing my turbo on my berlingo so easy. THANK YOU
Thank you Steven! Good luck with your turbo 🙂
Fantastic video I have the same Peugeot I would love to drop mine off for your to work on
Excellent series, thank you. I've just opened up my turbocharger and found that there are cuts and nicks inside the turbo body (the bit where you say should be smooth). Do I really need a brand new turbocharger as a result of that? Would it still work as long as nothing is obstructing the new fan blades on the replacement cartridge? I appreciate there will probably be some turbulence in the intake but other than that, should be alright?
Hi Will, do you mean the part where the air inlet is hooked onto the turbo? I mean is this not the actual turbo cartridge, but where the vanes are close to the outside body. If you are replacing the turbo and the previous one touched the sides, hence the cuts, you could potentially use fine 1,000+ sandpaper and make it smooth.
Maybe I did not understand the correct part that had cuts.
@@moremolecules Yes, you are absolutely correct in your understanding - on the air intake side, the fan had collided with the housing (as the shaft broke) and made the surface rough with scratches, dents and nicks.
Thank you for your suggestion and idea - I will try that!
@@gaioshin Ahh, that is what I thought. You do not necessarily need a new housing. Coarse/Fine sandpaper should do the trick, but of course that depends on how deep the scratches are. If they are too deep, you will remove too much metal and I suspect less compression, but it should not be too big issue
Hello, how has the longevity been with that Nerings cartridge?
Great question. It has been exactly two years since I replaced it and I have not had any problems whatsoever. As good as the original one.
If you are only replacing the turbo cartridge because of a leaking oil seal, do you need to remove the exhaust?
Not really, but the heatshields are blocking access to everything, especially the turbo return and the bracket holding the turbo itself to the exhaust side. It probably can be done without taking the exhaust but it is difficult with the tight space.
@@moremolecules Thanks. I see you also replaced the oil feed pipe. Is this because you wanted to be sure that the pipe was not blocked and the reason for the blown turbo?
@@justinf1343 Yes, the old oil feed was the old filter design, i.e. smaller surface area and I replaced it with a newer design with much larger surface, so way less chance of it getting blocked. Some (probably most) people will get rid of the filter altogether, but that could lead to other problems as well, so I opted for the better design but with a filter.
@@moremolecules Ok. Thanks for the reply
Hi,
Do you have part numbers for 2011 Peugeot Partner 1.6 HDI 75HP
Hi there, as far as I know or I am aware, the turbo is the same between the 75bhp and the 92bhp ones. The difference in the power output is the ECU mapping. Now, the turbo is different between the 92bhp and the 110bhp ones with the 110bhp having a VNT turbo and not the fixed geometry of the 75/92bhp ones. So, the 75bhp is mechanically exactly the same, only the ECU mapping is different. Hope that is helpful.
@@moremolecules Thanks very much for your reply.
Great video and very informative.
Part 1: ruclips.net/video/Q7S0qDBo314/видео.html
Part 2: ruclips.net/video/Q30w90Vcs7U/видео.html
Part 3: ruclips.net/video/QHY_uPbPfyg/видео.html
Part 4: ruclips.net/video/l2A0_AV9OH0/видео.html
Part 5: ruclips.net/video/wHnC8wPi0Qc/видео.html
You seem very knowledgeable with the 1.6HDi engine. I have a Citroen C4 1.6HDi and experiencing black smoke, changed the EGR and still the same, although appears quicker. It did stop for a while, when I unplugged the new EGR (just to see of that made a difference and it did for about 30 mins) and then returned, any ideas??? Been looking for air leaks for under boost. Turbo looks good and performs well. Thought it was an injector, no engine check light though and the smoke is black and sooty, so too much fuel and not enough air. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Gaz
Haha, I only appear so :-).
Have a look at split hoses from the air filter to the intake, turbo rubber seal, the hoses to the intercooler, perhaps intercooler leak/hole somewhere. If I were you I would disconnect the MAF sensor (engine off) and then run it like this and see if it makes a difference. If you have access to Diagbox/Lexia, have a look at boost pressures, MAF sensor data, etc.
@@moremolecules Will do a thorough check for air leaks tomorrow and disconnect the MAF, if the problem corrects when the MAF sensor is disconnected, does it need cleaning or replacing? Thanks for your help!
@@gazsto9510 If it corrects after disconnecting MAF, it will likely need replacing, but maybe a clean will do, worth trying. I would clean the MAP sensor just atfer the intercooler.
@@moremolecules Ok thanks, the MAP sensor is that on the throttle body? I know the MAF sensor on the intake of the turbo pipe.
@@moremolecules Yeah I know where the MAP sensor is located.
dont like the idea of hammering the circlip, normaly just drop it in and pul plyers open. Done.
Hi richardo, I absolutely agree, but this was way too tight and did not quite work out with extending it with the circlip pliers. It could be that the vibrations from the engine/turbo will slot it into place, but I just wanted to make sure the circlip is in place. I said gentle tapping, not hammering it into place.
@@moremolecules maybe a bit of wd 40 would help it slip in?
@@richardoloot1295 Yes probably it would help.
@@richardoloot1295 Yes, that would certainly help. Engine oil would also work