Affiliate Links: BougeRV Li 30A PWM: amzn.to/3RtfkEZ Renogy Wanderer Li 30A 12V PWM: amzn.to/3v3MMuq Generic 30A PWM: amzn.to/3RpYqXR BougeRV 200w Bificial solar panel: amzn.to/3RNeapa ================ AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: This channel may earn an affiliate commission if you purchase products through links I provide. ================ CONTACT: bradcagleyt@gmail.com Business/Collaboration only. Please do not contact me for for personal project help, or advice. ================ DISCLAIMER: These videos are documenting my own projects, and experiences. These projects, and activities can be dangerous. Do not try any of this at home, doing so will be at your own risk.
Fact about PWM verses MPPT. ( disclaimer I have both ) It is the PWM can be ran with one to 1000 of them into one battery bank, of any brand, any amperage and any controller input range within the ability without any need to have them balanced or connected for charge parameter issues. Pulse With Modulation is simple, it simply cycles on and off, on/off speed of Nano seconds for the high dollar ones, micro seconds for the cheapos, as it test and responds to top voltage/float/bulk settings. PWM is fine for most charging since the reality is a MPPT charge controller is 350% the price and fails at a rate no less then the PWM. For that reasoning it is just smarter if you have the space to add 5 to 10% more solar and use cheapo controllers that do not require tons of software and blue tooth or firmware.
i really enjoyed this video thanks so much brother im buying the RENOGY WANDERER today thanks to you so ill use the link you put down for your affiliate link kk so i hope that helps a little but god bless and thanks you again for a great great review of these charge controllers
Hi Brad, I really like the way you approach your reviews. This review of PWM's got me thinking -- if I was wanting to go as cheap as possible for charging a battery, the price of the Depvko looks really interesting. If my goal was to go cheap (it is ok if the battery takes a couple of days to charge while I'm not around) then maybe I would only use one solar panel and limit my usage to what I have available from the sun. Using this approach I would really want to know if the Depvko is up to the task with only one solar panel. I know this configuration won't charge at 30 amps, but does it work (i.e. doesn't go into current limiting)? Then maybe I would want to know which of the 3 PWM's are most efficient using only 1 panel. Just my thoughts, thanks.
Great question. This test really got me thinking about PWM, and I do actually want to test the Depvko more now. It might be fine for what you're thinking. I guess also consider it's technically for lead-acid, so I'm not sure it should be used for lithium, if that's what you're using. I have a lead-acid battery on my RV, I'm considering testing the little guy more on that battery. I do like to find cheap solutions, more testing to come. Thanks! :)
I like the simplicity of a PWM controller for small systems. But you cannot run high-voltage D.C. and step it down - the excess is discarded - so you need heavy wires to minimize I2R losses. Because no step down, with a PWM controller you don't want to feed more than about 18Vmp to charge a 12v battery. In theory 15v would be enough, but on hot days you need a few volts extra. With my original 48v system, I needed to wire my panels 4 in series for about 80-85Voc or about 72Vmp. 3 in series with a 54Vmp was not enough to fully charge the batteries, and the lead-acid batteries needed to be charged as much as possible, so 80V it was. A later change to MPPT gained about 20% more power because it could keep the panels optimized when the batteries were low, while still getting the batteries fully charged by adjusting the output voltage as needed. The PWM controllers can't do that as they work by connecting the panel(s) directly to the battery for longer or shorter ("pulse width") times separated by longer and longer intervals as the battery reaches full charge volts. Because they do connect the solar directly to the battery they also cannot regulate current the way an MPPT tracker does intrinsically - the battery sees either full solar current at the battery voltage or no current. Full current during a pulse, no current between pulses. The pulse widths are typically fractions of a second though several seconds is not uncommon. Before PWM controllers, we had simple on/off controllers, originally implemented with relays, that would either disconnect the solar panels (like PWM but on a scale of hours) or short the panels. I was sure glad to go PWM and get rid of the relays! The disconnect style didn't require a series "blocking" diode between controller relay and battery, which given semiconductor characteristics at the time saved some wattage. However as the batteries ran down the relay could close and connect panels to battery and that could drain the battery if the panels were leaky (many were). I only saw one shorting style controller... Heard a lot about them, "only connect to solar panels or other current limited source because it shorts its input" but the ones I checked out didn't short. Their advantage was it never let the panels or wiring go to full Voc and in theory dissipating the solar energy, Isc, in wiring would help the panels stay cooler.
Yeah I can see it being totally fine for a small inexpensive system, especially if the PV is really closely match. The wide voltage, the ability to be over-paneled, and the tracking of MPPT is a great upgrade, but if done correctly clearly PWM is not so bad. Pretty fun stuff, thanks for the info!
its funny the cheap one works just as good as the expensive ones too funny i did buy the RENOGY WANDERER 30amp solar charge controller thanks to this video so thanks brother
Interresting video. However, I have to ask you if by any chance you tried to use these charge controller when vertical. It could be the reason why the cheapest one cuts out. They are made to be vertical for heat dissipation.
PWMs are good for short runs of cable. I run four 100 watt panels in parallel on my Bouge RV 30 amp PWM and got over 20 amps - somewhere over 300 w at 20 and 40 ft, but stay under 250 Watts now that I have a 60 foot run. On the same battery bank (4 LiTime minis), I run a Bourge RV 40 amp mppt, and that thing will max out in amperage and get up over 120 degrees. I was going to run four of those 30 amp charge controllers until I realized how bad the drop was with the long run.
Interesting, when you run the MPPT are you configuring the PV panels in series for higher voltage? EDIT: Well come to think of it, should still be higher voltage even if they were all in parallel with MPPT since the panels are not being pulled down to the battery voltage. That makes sense. Thanks!
@@BradCagle yeah I'm running four 100 watt panels in series parallel. The voltage usually stays in the 70s I think. It'll usually pull 40 amps before it hits 575 watts. I had another Bouge RV 40 amp mppt that I was running 6 in series on that was getting quite warm and started leaking oil after a day. I think like with anything else, you should just try to run in the mid-range of whatever equipment you have.
With MPPT you can provide it with more amps than it's rating and it will simply not use the excess current. PWM doesn't normally allow this. Neither can tolerate any Voltage over their limit without frying.
@@BradCagle would just 2 keep that one controller from kicking out tho? I got some solar panels but haven't got them hooked up yet so any info I'm learning from all the online videos all help
Ithink you are overpowering these controllers. I am upgrading the solar on my boat with 2 200 watt panel and the installer is recommending a Victron MPPT controller rated at 100/50. Try this experiment again with 3 50 amp controllers.😮
Yeah, pushing the max to see what they can take. That was the intention. Probably not a bad idea to have a little wiggle room in a permanent installation. Victron, great units. I have several. Thanks
The other thought I have had about el cheapo controller is that is progrmmed to shut down whenever the incoming amperage exceeds its maximum rated input. They are available up to 60 amps for under $20. They are tiny and I thought I would mount one on my starter battery with a 50 amp solar to keep topped off.😅
@@bitsurfr46 Yes, it may be. However I did shade the panels even more the second time I hooked it up so I was hoping I could get it to maintain in the 20ish amp range. I think I'm going to play with it some more. Stay tuned!
All these controllers are rated for 400 watts or less you're putting 600 tru them. The renogy is 400 watt the Chinese cheapy is 380 or 390 i think the bouge is only 150 watt pv in. the Chinese cheapy will do 300 watt without getting to hot the renogy do pretty good at 400watt the bouge says 30 amp but pv in at 12 volt is only 150 watts on their specs
It's a test to hit the 30a rating, so I needed little extra power on the input to get there. Max Current (Imp) of these panels is 11.7a, so just 2 of them would not get close to the 30a rating. Again just a test, not a permanent system. Thanks
I had a Renogy for my system in my trailer and it fail in just over one year. I phone there Teck deprtment twice and I did not get any satisfaction from them . I will not buy Renogy again
I expected to get 30 Amps, I intended to get that. The panels are 10.99 Amp (Imp) each. So about 33amps with 3 in parallel in ideal conditions. This was a test to see how the PWM controllers respond to operating at max. We slightly went over so I throttled it back with some shading. We learned the Renogy, and BougeRV handled 30A nicely. Also we learned you cannot over panel PWM, like you can MPPT. Thanks
I understand that, the point of this was to push to the 30A limit of these controllers to see if they could handle it. Needed to push the input hard to make sure we got there. It's just a test, not a permanent setup. Thanks
Affiliate Links:
BougeRV Li 30A PWM: amzn.to/3RtfkEZ
Renogy Wanderer Li 30A 12V PWM: amzn.to/3v3MMuq
Generic 30A PWM: amzn.to/3RpYqXR
BougeRV 200w Bificial solar panel: amzn.to/3RNeapa
================
AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: This channel may earn an affiliate commission if you purchase products through links I provide.
================
CONTACT: bradcagleyt@gmail.com
Business/Collaboration only. Please do not contact me for for personal project help, or advice.
================
DISCLAIMER: These videos are documenting my own projects, and experiences. These projects, and activities can be dangerous. Do not try any of this at home, doing so will be at your own risk.
Fact about PWM verses MPPT. ( disclaimer I have both ) It is the PWM can be ran with one to 1000 of them into one battery bank, of any brand, any amperage and any controller input range within the ability without any need to have them balanced or connected for charge parameter issues. Pulse With Modulation is simple, it simply cycles on and off, on/off speed of Nano seconds for the high dollar ones, micro seconds for the cheapos, as it test and responds to top voltage/float/bulk settings. PWM is fine for most charging since the reality is a MPPT charge controller is 350% the price and fails at a rate no less then the PWM. For that reasoning it is just smarter if you have the space to add 5 to 10% more solar and use cheapo controllers that do not require tons of software and blue tooth or firmware.
Interesting. The price difference is pretty big for sure. Fun playing with these, I'm really looking forward to doing a PWM test against MPPT. Thanks
Thanx for this video. I always wondered about these cheap Chinese charge controllers. Som of them are labeled MPPT, but in fact are PWM.
You're welcome!
i really enjoyed this video thanks so much brother im buying the RENOGY WANDERER today thanks to you so ill use the link you put down for your affiliate link kk so i hope that helps a little but god bless and thanks you again for a great great review of these charge controllers
Hi Brad, I really like the way you approach your reviews. This review of PWM's got me thinking -- if I was wanting to go as cheap as possible for charging a battery, the price of the Depvko looks really interesting. If my goal was to go cheap (it is ok if the battery takes a couple of days to charge while I'm not around) then maybe I would only use one solar panel and limit my usage to what I have available from the sun. Using this approach I would really want to know if the Depvko is up to the task with only one solar panel.
I know this configuration won't charge at 30 amps, but does it work (i.e. doesn't go into current limiting)? Then maybe I would want to know which of the 3 PWM's are most efficient using only 1 panel.
Just my thoughts, thanks.
Great question. This test really got me thinking about PWM, and I do actually want to test the Depvko more now. It might be fine for what you're thinking. I guess also consider it's technically for lead-acid, so I'm not sure it should be used for lithium, if that's what you're using. I have a lead-acid battery on my RV, I'm considering testing the little guy more on that battery. I do like to find cheap solutions, more testing to come. Thanks! :)
LOST YOUR EMAIL BRAD BUT THE 4 BATTERIES (Go KWh) I ORDERED CAME TODAY ! YAHOO !
Exciting! 🙂
I like the simplicity of a PWM controller for small systems. But you cannot run high-voltage D.C. and step it down - the excess is discarded - so you need heavy wires to minimize I2R losses. Because no step down, with a PWM controller you don't want to feed more than about 18Vmp to charge a 12v battery. In theory 15v would be enough, but on hot days you need a few volts extra. With my original 48v system, I needed to wire my panels 4 in series for about 80-85Voc or about 72Vmp. 3 in series with a 54Vmp was not enough to fully charge the batteries, and the lead-acid batteries needed to be charged as much as possible, so 80V it was. A later change to MPPT gained about 20% more power because it could keep the panels optimized when the batteries were low, while still getting the batteries fully charged by adjusting the output voltage as needed. The PWM controllers can't do that as they work by connecting the panel(s) directly to the battery for longer or shorter ("pulse width") times separated by longer and longer intervals as the battery reaches full charge volts.
Because they do connect the solar directly to the battery they also cannot regulate current the way an MPPT tracker does intrinsically - the battery sees either full solar current at the battery voltage or no current. Full current during a pulse, no current between pulses. The pulse widths are typically fractions of a second though several seconds is not uncommon.
Before PWM controllers, we had simple on/off controllers, originally implemented with relays, that would either disconnect the solar panels (like PWM but on a scale of hours) or short the panels. I was sure glad to go PWM and get rid of the relays! The disconnect style didn't require a series "blocking" diode between controller relay and battery, which given semiconductor characteristics at the time saved some wattage. However as the batteries ran down the relay could close and connect panels to battery and that could drain the battery if the panels were leaky (many were). I only saw one shorting style controller... Heard a lot about them, "only connect to solar panels or other current limited source because it shorts its input" but the ones I checked out didn't short. Their advantage was it never let the panels or wiring go to full Voc and in theory dissipating the solar energy, Isc, in wiring would help the panels stay cooler.
Yeah I can see it being totally fine for a small inexpensive system, especially if the PV is really closely match. The wide voltage, the ability to be over-paneled, and the tracking of MPPT is a great upgrade, but if done correctly clearly PWM is not so bad. Pretty fun stuff, thanks for the info!
I wished you would compare the Bouge PWM with their MPPT contoller.
Good idea. I can ask if they'll send one for us to test.
its funny the cheap one works just as good as the expensive ones too funny i did buy the RENOGY WANDERER 30amp solar charge controller thanks to this video so thanks brother
Anytime :)
Did you set the controllers to lifepo4 batteries ?
Everything was default settings out of the box.
Because it default mode for the cheapest one supposed to be lead acid.
Brad, can you fill us in on small affordable wind generator ?
I have not played with wind generation, but I've wanted to for a long time now. I'll make a video if I can find something. Thanks
Interresting video. However, I have to ask you if by any chance you tried to use these charge controller when vertical. It could be the reason why the cheapest one cuts out. They are made to be vertical for heat dissipation.
PWMs are good for short runs of cable. I run four 100 watt panels in parallel on my Bouge RV 30 amp PWM and got over 20 amps - somewhere over 300 w at 20 and 40 ft, but stay under 250 Watts now that I have a 60 foot run. On the same battery bank (4 LiTime minis), I run a Bourge RV 40 amp mppt, and that thing will max out in amperage and get up over 120 degrees. I was going to run four of those 30 amp charge controllers until I realized how bad the drop was with the long run.
Interesting, when you run the MPPT are you configuring the PV panels in series for higher voltage? EDIT: Well come to think of it, should still be higher voltage even if they were all in parallel with MPPT since the panels are not being pulled down to the battery voltage. That makes sense. Thanks!
@@BradCagle yeah I'm running four 100 watt panels in series parallel. The voltage usually stays in the 70s I think. It'll usually pull 40 amps before it hits 575 watts. I had another Bouge RV 40 amp mppt that I was running 6 in series on that was getting quite warm and started leaking oil after a day. I think like with anything else, you should just try to run in the mid-range of whatever equipment you have.
What are those terminals called that attach to wire entering controller. Link would be helpful. Thanks for sharing
Ferrules, here's a link to the kit I use:
Ferrule Crimping Kit: amzn.to/3odMDS6
Thank you. @@BradCagle
@@1951Roy You're welcome!
Did you exceed voltage limits too?
You talking PV voltage? If so no, those were 12v panels wired in parallel.
@@BradCagle Read the Limits on the back of the panels.
@@Snailmailtrucker Yup, I do.
Its really 30v for 12v battery and 50v for 24v
What's the app you use to monitor for the rougerv 30amp solar controller
@@brianjimenez4238 This solar controller has no app. The app I was using was for my battery.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Is it ok to use any PWM on LIFEPO4? I thought they say it hurts them, Pls clear my doubt. Thanks
I'm not sure. I do know the Renogy, and the BougeRV both have Li profiles. The Cheepy one has only lead profiles.
With MPPT you can provide it with more amps than it's rating and it will simply not use the excess current. PWM doesn't normally allow this. Neither can tolerate any Voltage over their limit without frying.
Good info, thanks!
If you eliminate one panel would it still put out 30 amps?
No. These panels have Imp of 10.99 amps each. So with two the most you could get is about 22a
@@BradCagle would just 2 keep that one controller from kicking out tho? I got some solar panels but haven't got them hooked up yet so any info I'm learning from all the online videos all help
@@ralphpeabody9101 It might, I'm thinking of testing the cheap controller some more. People seem very interested in it due to the low cost. Thanks
@@BradCagle hey thanks for the info. keep up with the great info it will help a lot of us
@@ralphpeabody9101 Will do! Thanks
Ithink you are overpowering these controllers. I am upgrading the solar on my boat with 2 200 watt panel and the installer is recommending a Victron MPPT controller rated at 100/50. Try this experiment again with 3 50 amp controllers.😮
Yeah, pushing the max to see what they can take. That was the intention. Probably not a bad idea to have a little wiggle room in a permanent installation. Victron, great units. I have several. Thanks
The other thought I have had about el cheapo controller is that is progrmmed to shut down whenever the incoming amperage exceeds its maximum rated input.
They are available up to 60 amps for under $20. They are tiny and I thought I would mount one on my starter battery with a 50 amp solar to keep topped off.😅
@@bitsurfr46 Yes, it may be. However I did shade the panels even more the second time I hooked it up so I was hoping I could get it to maintain in the 20ish amp range. I think I'm going to play with it some more. Stay tuned!
360w max for 30a
All these controllers are rated for 400 watts or less you're putting 600 tru them. The renogy is 400 watt the Chinese cheapy is 380 or 390 i think the bouge is only 150 watt pv in. the Chinese cheapy will do 300 watt without getting to hot the renogy do pretty good at 400watt the bouge says 30 amp but pv in at 12 volt is only 150 watts on their specs
It's a test to hit the 30a rating, so I needed little extra power on the input to get there. Max Current (Imp) of these panels is 11.7a, so just 2 of them would not get close to the 30a rating. Again just a test, not a permanent system. Thanks
@BradCagle Roger that but you voided your warranty ha.ha enjoyed the vid
@@Thinkustandtakeheedlessufall Voiding warranties is a feature of this channel :) Thanks for watching!
I had a Renogy for my system in my trailer and it fail in just over one year. I phone there Teck deprtment twice and I did not get any satisfaction from them . I will not buy Renogy again
Oh, bummer man. Thanks for sharing.
You plugged 600 watts of Solar Panels into a 30 amp Solar Charge Controller...what did you expect ?
I expected to get 30 Amps, I intended to get that. The panels are 10.99 Amp (Imp) each. So about 33amps with 3 in parallel in ideal conditions. This was a test to see how the PWM controllers respond to operating at max. We slightly went over so I throttled it back with some shading. We learned the Renogy, and BougeRV handled 30A nicely. Also we learned you cannot over panel PWM, like you can MPPT. Thanks
uh hey Bud, you have way to much solar going in. !!!! read the bottom of the Renogy and max in is 400 watts
I understand that, the point of this was to push to the 30A limit of these controllers to see if they could handle it. Needed to push the input hard to make sure we got there. It's just a test, not a permanent setup. Thanks
As soon as the vid started i knew you had way too much power going in