This was my favorite build that Nate did. That said I am a biased 80 owner. So glad to see you are continuing to improve it and keeping us in the loop!
I think your lift problem is that you did not calculate your weight correctly. You said you weighed the vehicle, which was great, but you did not consider the amount of unsprung weight you have. The springs do not support unsprung weight in the static condition. Probably should have brought something around +600 lbs.
Great video. This is how every DIY project I have even done has gone and I always found it infuriating that everyone always says online how smooth and easy everything is. Also, as a short person always looking for more visibility, love the rake! Haha
Since you have a 2 post lift, it would’ve been way easier, safer to undo bottom shock bolts and pan hard bars then lift vehicle than to use a spring compressor.
It was a fun video to make… sure lots went wrong.. but it really is valuable for me to just keep learning. I gotta get better at filming more of the installs… it’s Hard to film and wrench at the same time.
The lift on my 80 was one of the few things I paid to have done at a reputable shop - Slee Offroad actually. The reason for this was exactly to avoid the pitfalls and delays like you had to deal with. After discussions with Christo regarding expected load out weight, he chose the kit I needed. But even then, after install they had to change to another kit to reach the goals I was after. All they had to do was go to their inventory shelf. The install was completed in a few days. They also identified some other items that needed attention and were able to address them at the same time, so even more delays avoided by having a great shop do the work. I think you mentioned, but DeltaVS makes a lift bracket for the rear panhard. I need one too, but can manage the rear-end wonk for now. Think you may still need an adjustable panhard anyway for the lift you have going. And btw, glad you did the lift. It was the biggest thing I felt limited that 80 when Nate built it. I know that was his intention not to lift it, but I think even he once mentioned a lift would have been helpful on the Rubicon. Don't forget to pull those offset CA bushings when you do the plates. They don't really last long anyway under frequent, full articulation. I'm running a 3" lift with factory bushings and no plates. So far so good, tho any higher a lift would def require the plates imo. Also running about 700# loud out, so that may contribute to a decent ride w/o too. Great video and info. Happy trails!
Really great video, I'm a 62 year old shade tree DIY mechanic & it's awesome to be able to go to the web for answers but it's also very scary at times. I really appreciate your videos & the time & money you spend on sharing your experiences. Have you considered putting your logo on the new hood (either one large logo or a collage of small logos)?
Well, since OME is Australian the A vs B springs are correct. But on the other side from the US. Sounds like the Mudify company was just reading from the instructions from a right hand drive country.
Just a few things, drop the rear bump stops, and braided steel brake lines and 100 series toyota brake pads with powerstop rotors works great, also transfer case gears for low range helps,
A panhard bar (or trackbar for Jeep people) preforms best when level at ride height. A panhard bar will always have an arc to it when the suspension compresses and extends. Having it level will put that arc in a more central position that will push the vehicle left and right about the same amount. Having the panhard on an angle will cause that arc to lay on its side and under compression/extension, the vehicle will be pushed mainly one direction. This will cause a “tail wagging” feeling (or nose wagging on a front panhard). Get both, the front and rear panhard bars as level as possible. Yes, you are noticing that the rear axle isn’t centered under the vehicle too but the position of the arc is the bigger issue.
thank you for going over the ISSUES that come with lifting the 80 series. It is important to know how to correct issues.. Now does Nate want to run 44s?? if so he is set!
I put an OME kit on my 2016 Colorado. Actually did the rear leaf springs 3 times to dial it in. First was the “regular” springs after much discussion with ARB people. They were very helpful, but I needed to upgrade to the heavier leafs which involves adding a leaf to their regular springs. Finally added a shim to correct some of the Colorado lean. Like the ride of my OME kit. On my Colorado, their numbers for lift were pretty close.
Delta makes a bolt in track bar level bracket for the rear. Make sure you adjust the bump stops or the higher track bar will hit the bottom of the body! There is also a longer rear brake bias bar to keep the rear brakes working properly.
Great info. Waiting on my upgraded AEV heavy 3" springs to replace the AEV 2.5" that's sagging a bit after 4 years from my 2018 JL Rubicon. Its heavy with all the camping gear and tent.
I know the feeling. Ordered a Clayton Off Road 1.5” lift with HD rear springs due to the RTT and other things in the rear and got 3” of lift. Not as bad as yours. I always say about suspension you really don’t know until your suspension is installed. You can make good guesses/estimates but you never really know until it is all installed. P.S. Don’t get me wrong. We like the Clayton Off Road kit on our Gladiator.
Panhard correction kit on my 5th gen 4runner made a surprising difference in street handling - especially with how quickly the rear ended settled over big bumps. I feel like this is often overlooked.
I would recommend replacement radius arms to correct caster from personal experience on my y61 Nissan Patrol, they keep the factory bushes which last longer and are softer to allow better articulation. If you can get some that are made from 32mm bisalloy, deflection is greatly reduced. Im not sure where you would get them from in the states but they are well worth the investment.
The rear panhard is an easy fix. Pick up a Delta lift bracket for it. It's an easy bolt-on. The yellow offset bushings up front are junk. You are better off setting the caster with aftermarket radius arms (like those from Delta), or by adding drop brackets to lower the radius arm mounting points.
the longer spring is because of the panhard bar, the longer spring regardless of left or right hand drive always goes on the side that the panhard bar mount is on the chassis. So for the rear it is always on the RHS of the car, but the front is flipped to match the steering box depending on the market of sale. longer is always the chassis mount side of the panhard
If your running 3"+ or more lift you will probably need a few extra things. Tail shaft spacers, extended brake lines (if not already fitted). I cant remember if dirt lifestyle has already done, but the chassis at the steering box needs bracing as they crack when you run big tires.
Thanks for this content, it helps explain alot about diy struggles. There is one big thing that I think should be clarified. You make it seem as if the truck will drive like stock again, and although you can get a lifted truck to drive "good". They will never be as stable as an unmodified truck again. I've lifted probably 700+ vehicles ,and that's what that experience has taught me. This isn't a criticism but hopefully helpful info. But either way keep up the good content.
Interesting, I have lifted multiple Tundras and drastically improved their stability... I think a lot of it has to do with how much work goes into correcting Geometry after the lift... So I don't know if I agree that you make a less stable vehicle but usually you make a less reliable vehicle.
@@OutdoorAuto I can agree with you for alot of that. Changing spring rates and shock tuning can make a vehicle feel drastically different in both good and bad ways. Also changing geometries can help in certain situations. But what I'm referring to mostly is that when your changing the center of gravity, and adding taller tires it doesn't really matter how good the geometry or tuning is, the vehicle is going to be less stable. But again that's one guys opinion. I had a huge problem in the industry when I was an installer with people thinking the truck was going to drive just like factory after getting thier truck lifted and it just not being that way. But with that being said, those were mostly out of the box kits that are fairly generic. You obviously put some quality parts on the 80 and that will be way better than a kit that's more generic. Again I'm not criticizing or trying to despite, I'm just trying to help people understand that when you modify for particular things you may have to make sacrifices in other areas.
I am hoping to replace the suspension on my 4Runner by the end of august, so thank you for the reminder to triple check part numbers before I start tearing things apart
I didn’t know why my cruiser has a lean after putting on an OME lift. Had no idea there was an A and B spring. I was about to install spacers to level it. Thanks!!!
I have Old Man Emu BP 51’s and springs on my 300 series Landcruiser I love them. All my Landcruiser’s from 1985 have been fitted with Old Man Emu suspensions fitted….
Definitely look into a panhard riser i have one from rampt customs and it has helped alot with body roll. Also castor correction bushes are definitely not ideal better of with a set of propper arms or even look into flipped radius arms wich allows you to set your caster properly and the added benefit of extra clearance under the front diff
Thank you so much for this video I’ve been trying planning to lift my wife’s Grand Cherokee for her and I know I would have made way bigger mistakes had I not see this
I have noticed that a lot of people in the industry call a lifted vehicle "tippy" and for the life of me I cannot understand when everyone forgot about their vocabulary TIPSY
When installing side specific springs here in Aus i was told it compensates for the driver to some extent and the natural camber of the road (drainage).
I put OME's light weight springs on my 2000 4Runner and they are plenty stiff. I was told you don't want to use OME heavy duty springs or the vehicle will be undriveable.
The eimkeith brackets are amazing. I'm interested to see how the slee compares. But eimkeith's PCK that from everything I've seen is superior to the Delta part. Odd that you wouldn't get both parts from the same company. I have dobinson's 3" flexi lift. Drove it lots with no caster correction, and after installing the Eimkeith RAM it's night and day different. Also according to almost every state the LC80 is registered with a car plate not a truck plate. So it seems more correct to call it a car instead of a truck. 🤣
I ended up going with the Delta PCK after looking at several solutions. The delta braces off of both the panhard mount and the upper arm… it’s definitely stronger. I also checked the Slee for the front caster but I couldn’t get enough degrees out of it so I went with the Delta Radius arms… that solved my steering knuckle issue for hydro assist as well as I got ones an inch longer and moved the front axle an inch forward for better tire clearance.
One thing nobody generally talks about is front driveline angle vs pinion angle when changing caster. I think the joints have a maximum safe angle. Maybe you can talk about that.
You are right, if you go much over 4" you general have to extend the driveline and things can get complicated.... I really like to stay in the 2.5 - 3" area... it saves a lot of extra work
I'm just surprised you are using Aussie stuff living in America! We don't do instructions too well. I'm still trying to work out how to install a set of rock sliders!!!
@@OutdoorAuto Yep, we do...the land cruiser is a rusted on staple here. There are alot of smaller companies making great parts for the ol cruiser, not just OME. Just impressed that you have come over to Oz for a setup 🙂 Love your channel.
I used Ironman 4x4 on my 100 series and the direction were great and it did lift a little more than they said. But it helped me fit the 315’s so complaints.
What made you choose the OME J/L setup? I was looking on going that or the IMS from Dobinson. I've heard really good things on both but dobinson seems to be a bit comfier (and more expensive) love to hear your reasonings
Been there done that with some dobinsons springs. Just because their springs say its rated for 1200lbs extra does not mean that. I bought them, installed them and the vehicle wouldnt even compress. TO BE FAIR, I actually have 1350lbs extra and the 1200lb extra springs were wayyyy to overboard.
I feel like the hardest part is ever brand does it a bit different... its like trying to find a L t-shirt that actually fits right when I am skinny and 6'4"....
Most dedicated 4 wheel drives come from the factory with forward rake ie higher in the back than the front. It’s engineered to improve off roading suspension geometry, traction and handling especially going up hill. A lift of any height should maintain that. Level is not correct.
I have a j spring lift with L shocks on my 80 right now it is also about 4 inches of total lift. Saving up for dobinsons mra and their dual rate coils to take it down to 2.5-3ish inches. Delta VS makes a great panhard bracket that works great. They also make very nice radius arms but they are quite expensive.
I love Delta... those guys are really close to me... i'll have to go check out their Panhard brackets. I am curious if the dual rate springs will work well with an 80... they are so top heavy I always worried it would just create body roll.
@@OutdoorAuto I’ve had the same concerns. A lot of the dobinsons stuff is newish to the USA so there is more limited info on them, but I’ve seen how people online like dual rate coils and lots of guys in aus really like the dobinsons stuff. I’m going to try it out. The mra shocks will make the biggest difference over the Ls that are on there and after talking with Dave at delta and the guys at cruiser outfitters, the dual rate coils come highly recommended but I’ll just have to wait to find out.
@@OutdoorAuto I have 2.5 VT from dobinsons on my 80. Got about 2.5" lift with steel bumper and 10,000lb winch in the front but 4" in the rear, steel bumper with dual swing outs full size spare. The rear was supposed to be rated at 440lbs for 2.5" but I think I'm a bit lighter surprisingly, I am giving it time to settle or I will just have to add a bit more weight. I am also running Delta radius arms and panhard bracket fwiw.
I bought the same kit for my 18' Tundra with the medium duty leafs. I had to add 15mm to the front struts to get the factory rake out of it. Even though the EMU instructions said not needed if stock (which it is). Any suggestions on bump stops for the front that don't cost $300?
No parts problems aren’t a usual occurrence for mechanics or technicians. Before u start work on any vehicle, the mech / tech usually checks the product list for the correct amount of parts in a particular kit. Until the mech/tech has verified with their own brain that all parts are there , they wouldn’t start the install, and usually would recommend changing all components that are high wear items during the install of a kit
You sound like you work at the dealership near me where I had a broken plastiweld on a secondary air screen and they told me the fix was to buy a whole new air box…
You messed it up honestly though lol. Wasn't due to know it all mentality or ego, just an honest mistake. Its great to see this vehicle progressing. Nice not to have the contest's budget constraints. Love the updates.
I am pretty excited to keep playing around with this truck and dialing it in... I got it from Nate in such a good spot already, it is fun to just tinker and take it out on the trails...
I think your lift problem is that you did not calculate your weight correctly. You said you weighed the vehicle, which was great, but you did not consider the amount of unsprung weight you have. The springs do not support unsprung weight in the static condition. Probably should have brought something around +600 lbs.
Uhh… I mean they did admit that the sent the completely wrong springs… so I’m going to say that was a big part of it… second set of springs are close and that is without 2 riders adding 400 more lbs of sprung weight… also I have weighed all my gear separately… so I’m going to have to disagree
@@OutdoorAuto yeah I think the only change that might have been useful could have been weighing each wheel separately. But that wouldn't help if they're the wrong springs 😅
This spring compressor is probably why I still have 10 fingers - Spring Compressor - geni.us/SNXv - Don't forget to SUBSCRIBE for more helpful Videos.
This was my favorite build that Nate did. That said I am a biased 80 owner. So glad to see you are continuing to improve it and keeping us in the loop!
I am sure it will get 1 tons some day... but first I want to step through the process and see how capable we can get it with some basics...
I think your lift problem is that you did not calculate your weight correctly. You said you weighed the vehicle, which was great, but you did not consider the amount of unsprung weight you have. The springs do not support unsprung weight in the static condition. Probably should have brought something around +600 lbs.
Great video. This is how every DIY project I have even done has gone and I always found it infuriating that everyone always says online how smooth and easy everything is.
Also, as a short person always looking for more visibility, love the rake! Haha
Yep! rebuilding an FJ62 that was in a coma since 1996 pure 90s SPOA well done I gotta say but thats along time to be dormant.
Since you have a 2 post lift, it would’ve been way easier, safer to undo bottom shock bolts and pan hard bars then lift vehicle than to use a spring compressor.
I’m sorry you had to deal with the headache… but this was a fun video, because everyone who has installed their own stuff can 100% relate lol!
It was a fun video to make… sure lots went wrong.. but it really is valuable for me to just keep learning. I gotta get better at filming more of the installs… it’s Hard to film and wrench at the same time.
The lift on my 80 was one of the few things I paid to have done at a reputable shop - Slee Offroad actually. The reason for this was exactly to avoid the pitfalls and delays like you had to deal with.
After discussions with Christo regarding expected load out weight, he chose the kit I needed. But even then, after install they had to change to another kit to reach the goals I was after. All they had to do was go to their inventory shelf. The install was completed in a few days. They also identified some other items that needed attention and were able to address them at the same time, so even more delays avoided by having a great shop do the work.
I think you mentioned, but DeltaVS makes a lift bracket for the rear panhard. I need one too, but can manage the rear-end wonk for now.
Think you may still need an adjustable panhard anyway for the lift you have going.
And btw, glad you did the lift. It was the biggest thing I felt limited that 80 when Nate built it. I know that was his intention not to lift it, but I think even he once mentioned a lift would have been helpful on the Rubicon.
Don't forget to pull those offset CA bushings when you do the plates. They don't really last long anyway under frequent, full articulation.
I'm running a 3" lift with factory bushings and no plates. So far so good, tho any higher a lift would def require the plates imo.
Also running about 700# loud out, so that may contribute to a decent ride w/o too.
Great video and info.
Happy trails!
Glad my 87 GMC has a 4” lift already, but you made this look easy, or at least easy to follow. 😀👍
Awesome technical explanations. Yes. Panhard relocation is mandatory if lift. Pretty interesting why previous owner didnt do this.
Really great video, I'm a 62 year old shade tree DIY mechanic & it's awesome to be able to go to the web for answers but it's also very scary at times. I really appreciate your videos & the time & money you spend on sharing your experiences. Have you considered putting your logo on the new hood (either one large logo or a collage of small logos)?
I was thinking about trying to incorporate it in some way.
Thanks for the feedback… I really appreciate it.
Well, since OME is Australian the A vs B springs are correct. But on the other side from the US. Sounds like the Mudify company was just reading from the instructions from a right hand drive country.
And then you say the same thing a minute later..
😂
Thank you, as always very helpful.
Just a few things, drop the rear bump stops, and braided steel brake lines and 100 series toyota brake pads with powerstop rotors works great, also transfer case gears for low range helps,
Good stuff, glad you got it worked out so far. Love seeing the Kong Bump stops too
A panhard bar (or trackbar for Jeep people) preforms best when level at ride height. A panhard bar will always have an arc to it when the suspension compresses and extends. Having it level will put that arc in a more central position that will push the vehicle left and right about the same amount. Having the panhard on an angle will cause that arc to lay on its side and under compression/extension, the vehicle will be pushed mainly one direction. This will cause a “tail wagging” feeling (or nose wagging on a front panhard). Get both, the front and rear panhard bars as level as possible. Yes, you are noticing that the rear axle isn’t centered under the vehicle too but the position of the arc is the bigger issue.
How about drop boxes for the chassis end of the radius arms, and adjustable panhard bar.
thank you for going over the ISSUES that come with lifting the 80 series. It is important to know how to correct issues.. Now does Nate want to run 44s?? if so he is set!
I put an OME kit on my 2016 Colorado. Actually did the rear leaf springs 3 times to dial it in. First was the “regular” springs after much discussion with ARB people. They were very helpful, but I needed to upgrade to the heavier leafs which involves adding a leaf to their regular springs. Finally added a shim to correct some of the Colorado lean. Like the ride of my OME kit. On my Colorado, their numbers for lift were pretty close.
Delta makes a bolt in track bar level bracket for the rear. Make sure you adjust the bump stops or the higher track bar will hit the bottom of the body!
There is also a longer rear brake bias bar to keep the rear brakes working properly.
Great info. Waiting on my upgraded AEV heavy 3" springs to replace the AEV 2.5" that's sagging a bit after 4 years from my 2018 JL Rubicon. Its heavy with all the camping gear and tent.
The dog Kong bump stops are the best part
I know the feeling. Ordered a Clayton Off Road 1.5” lift with HD rear springs due to the RTT and other things in the rear and got 3” of lift. Not as bad as yours. I always say about suspension you really don’t know until your suspension is installed. You can make good guesses/estimates but you never really know until it is all installed.
P.S. Don’t get me wrong. We like the Clayton Off Road kit on our Gladiator.
Panhard correction kit on my 5th gen 4runner made a surprising difference in street handling - especially with how quickly the rear ended settled over big bumps. I feel like this is often overlooked.
I’m pretty excited to get mine set.
I would recommend replacement radius arms to correct caster from personal experience on my y61 Nissan Patrol, they keep the factory bushes which last longer and are softer to allow better articulation. If you can get some that are made from 32mm bisalloy, deflection is greatly reduced. Im not sure where you would get them from in the states but they are well worth the investment.
The rear panhard is an easy fix. Pick up a Delta lift bracket for it. It's an easy bolt-on.
The yellow offset bushings up front are junk. You are better off setting the caster with aftermarket radius arms (like those from Delta), or by adding drop brackets to lower the radius arm mounting points.
Yeah… I have drop brackets coming… the yellow ones were more a test of the kit sold as is…
the longer spring is because of the panhard bar, the longer spring regardless of left or right hand drive always goes on the side that the panhard bar mount is on the chassis. So for the rear it is always on the RHS of the car, but the front is flipped to match the steering box depending on the market of sale. longer is always the chassis mount side of the panhard
If your running 3"+ or more lift you will probably need a few extra things. Tail shaft spacers, extended brake lines (if not already fitted). I cant remember if dirt lifestyle has already done, but the chassis at the steering box needs bracing as they crack when you run big tires.
Thanks for this content, it helps explain alot about diy struggles. There is one big thing that I think should be clarified. You make it seem as if the truck will drive like stock again, and although you can get a lifted truck to drive "good". They will never be as stable as an unmodified truck again. I've lifted probably 700+ vehicles ,and that's what that experience has taught me. This isn't a criticism but hopefully helpful info. But either way keep up the good content.
Interesting, I have lifted multiple Tundras and drastically improved their stability... I think a lot of it has to do with how much work goes into correcting Geometry after the lift... So I don't know if I agree that you make a less stable vehicle but usually you make a less reliable vehicle.
@@OutdoorAuto I can agree with you for alot of that. Changing spring rates and shock tuning can make a vehicle feel drastically different in both good and bad ways. Also changing geometries can help in certain situations. But what I'm referring to mostly is that when your changing the center of gravity, and adding taller tires it doesn't really matter how good the geometry or tuning is, the vehicle is going to be less stable. But again that's one guys opinion. I had a huge problem in the industry when I was an installer with people thinking the truck was going to drive just like factory after getting thier truck lifted and it just not being that way. But with that being said, those were mostly out of the box kits that are fairly generic. You obviously put some quality parts on the 80 and that will be way better than a kit that's more generic. Again I'm not criticizing or trying to despite, I'm just trying to help people understand that when you modify for particular things you may have to make sacrifices in other areas.
I am hoping to replace the suspension on my 4Runner by the end of august, so thank you for the reminder to triple check part numbers before I start tearing things apart
That spring compressor is nice, I just went with 2 sets of the cheap ones for a slightly safer version of “ jack in the box with consequences”
I didn’t know why my cruiser has a lean after putting on an OME lift. Had no idea there was an A and B spring. I was about to install spacers to level it.
Thanks!!!
I have Old Man Emu BP 51’s and springs on my 300 series Landcruiser I love them. All my Landcruiser’s from 1985 have been fitted with Old Man Emu suspensions fitted….
And THIS is why I follow you. Thank you, sir. BTW you're welcome. 👊🏽
Definitely look into a panhard riser i have one from rampt customs and it has helped alot with body roll. Also castor correction bushes are definitely not ideal better of with a set of propper arms or even look into flipped radius arms wich allows you to set your caster properly and the added benefit of extra clearance under the front diff
Thank you so much for this video I’ve been trying planning to lift my wife’s Grand Cherokee for her and I know I would have made way bigger mistakes had I not see this
I have noticed that a lot of people in the industry call a lifted vehicle "tippy" and for the life of me I cannot understand when everyone forgot about their vocabulary
TIPSY
When installing side specific springs here in Aus i was told it compensates for the driver to some extent and the natural camber of the road (drainage).
The problem is that the originals springs saddled.
And the new one are made for like 4 inches after saddling.
Let it roll a bit
I put OME's light weight springs on my 2000 4Runner and they are plenty stiff. I was told you don't want to use OME heavy duty springs or the vehicle will be undriveable.
I always remember the "a" spring is for passenger because the word passenger has an "a" in it 😊
Its fun working on. Tour own ride ive done the majority of stufd on my f80. You can learn anything on the internet
The eimkeith brackets are amazing. I'm interested to see how the slee compares.
But eimkeith's PCK that from everything I've seen is superior to the Delta part.
Odd that you wouldn't get both parts from the same company. I have dobinson's 3" flexi lift. Drove it lots with no caster correction, and after installing the Eimkeith RAM it's night and day different.
Also according to almost every state the LC80 is registered with a car plate not a truck plate. So it seems more correct to call it a car instead of a truck. 🤣
I ended up going with the Delta PCK after looking at several solutions. The delta braces off of both the panhard mount and the upper arm… it’s definitely stronger. I also checked the Slee for the front caster but I couldn’t get enough degrees out of it so I went with the Delta Radius arms… that solved my steering knuckle issue for hydro assist as well as I got ones an inch longer and moved the front axle an inch forward for better tire clearance.
man, undoing the shocks / trailing arm / panhard..... and just flexing the axles does 90% of getting those springs in / out...
With the hood you can get a 79 series hood scoop, it would look mad.
That would look cool.
One thing nobody generally talks about is front driveline angle vs pinion angle when changing caster. I think the joints have a maximum safe angle. Maybe you can talk about that.
You are right, if you go much over 4" you general have to extend the driveline and things can get complicated.... I really like to stay in the 2.5 - 3" area... it saves a lot of extra work
Even with the lift problems, the Land Cruiser still looks awesome, I think I really like the raked look, gives it more flex
Take it back down to the last springs and get portal hubs.
Portals would be awesome… but very expensive.
I'm just surprised you are using Aussie stuff living in America! We don't do instructions too well. I'm still trying to work out how to install a set of rock sliders!!!
Aussie companies have a lot of good stuff for Toyotas.
@@OutdoorAuto Yep, we do...the land cruiser is a rusted on staple here. There are alot of smaller companies making great parts for the ol cruiser, not just OME. Just impressed that you have come over to Oz for a setup 🙂
Love your channel.
I used Ironman 4x4 on my 100 series and the direction were great and it did lift a little more than they said. But it helped me fit the 315’s so complaints.
I’m about to use them on a build… excited to try them out.
You need a softer/lighter spring. It’s over sprung.
What made you choose the OME J/L setup? I was looking on going that or the IMS from Dobinson. I've heard really good things on both but dobinson seems to be a bit comfier (and more expensive) love to hear your reasonings
Racing stripes on the hood
I’ve got some ideas kinda in this vein
Been there done that with some dobinsons springs. Just because their springs say its rated for 1200lbs extra does not mean that. I bought them, installed them and the vehicle wouldnt even compress. TO BE FAIR, I actually have 1350lbs extra and the 1200lb extra springs were wayyyy to overboard.
I feel like the hardest part is ever brand does it a bit different... its like trying to find a L t-shirt that actually fits right when I am skinny and 6'4"....
do a 79 series hood scoop on the hood
love the videos! and also, you seem to really love that shirt 😛
It’s my uniform, I have like 5 of them… they hide stains really well.
With my Land Rover I also had to redo my suspension twice. 😅
I put a small lift on my 2003 Land Cruiser with OME springs. It went smooth, sorry you had so many problems.
It’s fine… it’s the best way to learn 🤷♂️
I tell my wife 51mm is 3 inches, too
😂
That much lift looks way better than before. It was way too low
About the spring compressor how was it safer than the usual spring compressors? ? As long as the they are used correctly it can be a non issue
Dang that sucks but I learned so much from this video
Most dedicated 4 wheel drives come from the factory with forward rake ie higher in the back than the front. It’s engineered to improve off roading suspension geometry, traction and handling especially going up hill. A lift of any height should maintain that. Level is not correct.
it still has a rake even now with the correct springs.... the previous rake was extreme...
I have a j spring lift with L shocks on my 80 right now it is also about 4 inches of total lift. Saving up for dobinsons mra and their dual rate coils to take it down to 2.5-3ish inches. Delta VS makes a great panhard bracket that works great. They also make very nice radius arms but they are quite expensive.
I love Delta... those guys are really close to me... i'll have to go check out their Panhard brackets. I am curious if the dual rate springs will work well with an 80... they are so top heavy I always worried it would just create body roll.
@@OutdoorAuto I’ve had the same concerns. A lot of the dobinsons stuff is newish to the USA so there is more limited info on them, but I’ve seen how people online like dual rate coils and lots of guys in aus really like the dobinsons stuff. I’m going to try it out. The mra shocks will make the biggest difference over the Ls that are on there and after talking with Dave at delta and the guys at cruiser outfitters, the dual rate coils come highly recommended but I’ll just have to wait to find out.
@@OutdoorAuto I have 2.5 VT from dobinsons on my 80. Got about 2.5" lift with steel bumper and 10,000lb winch in the front but 4" in the rear, steel bumper with dual swing outs full size spare. The rear was supposed to be rated at 440lbs for 2.5" but I think I'm a bit lighter surprisingly, I am giving it time to settle or I will just have to add a bit more weight. I am also running Delta radius arms and panhard bracket fwiw.
Send me a PM if your are interested in getting rid of the old FOX shocks.
I bought the same kit for my 18' Tundra with the medium duty leafs. I had to add 15mm to the front struts to get the factory rake out of it. Even though the EMU instructions said not needed if stock (which it is). Any suggestions on bump stops for the front that don't cost $300?
Some people just bolt a Kong dog toy on there... but for it to work correct its hard to find something less then $300.
No parts problems aren’t a usual occurrence for mechanics or technicians. Before u start work on any vehicle, the mech / tech usually checks the product list for the correct amount of parts in a particular kit. Until the mech/tech has verified with their own brain that all parts are there , they wouldn’t start the install, and usually would recommend changing all components that are high wear items during the install of a kit
You sound like you work at the dealership near me where I had a broken plastiweld on a secondary air screen and they told me the fix was to buy a whole new air box…
@@OutdoorAuto I’m an ex dealership technician
I think it looks pretty good.
How are the King bump stops?!
Are those bump stops actual Kong dog toys?
You bet... kinda cool right?
I’m now mad at you for calling it a truck😂
You messed it up honestly though lol. Wasn't due to know it all mentality or ego, just an honest mistake. Its great to see this vehicle progressing. Nice not to have the contest's budget constraints. Love the updates.
I am pretty excited to keep playing around with this truck and dialing it in... I got it from Nate in such a good spot already, it is fun to just tinker and take it out on the trails...
Hood idea Find a local graffiti guy and let them have their way on the hood, clear it after.
why not reduce the lift , since it ended up being more than what you were aiming for ?
Sweet baby Jesus this is a crying shame. Yuppies gonna yup.
Old man emu needs to label passenger and driver instead of that bullshit an and b. Rule of thumb always install longer ones on drivers side
42s
Maybe try not tucking your ears inside your hat.
Sexy car.
First mistake was not starting with an older Chevrolet
😂
I think your lift problem is that you did not calculate your weight correctly. You said you weighed the vehicle, which was great, but you did not consider the amount of unsprung weight you have. The springs do not support unsprung weight in the static condition. Probably should have brought something around +600 lbs.
Uhh… I mean they did admit that the sent the completely wrong springs… so I’m going to say that was a big part of it… second set of springs are close and that is without 2 riders adding 400 more lbs of sprung weight… also I have weighed all my gear separately… so I’m going to have to disagree
Ok hope it works out good for you. Nice video
@@OutdoorAuto yeah I think the only change that might have been useful could have been weighing each wheel separately. But that wouldn't help if they're the wrong springs 😅