Im a roofer of 37 years. I incorporate SBR into my mix which improves bonding and also acts as an integral waterproofer. Its appropriate to use SBR as its used with rendering base coats. Toodlepip
What’s you mix please? I’ve verges to do and some ridge tiles to repoint. Slightly worried about the verges cos the existing stuff (50years old) is crumbling out and the undercloak is deffo asbestos. Some is still adhered to undercloak and don’t fancy disturbing it. Any help /advice appreciated.
Hey, no they're different things. They're both 'binders' but they have different properties. You would usually use one or the other. I've only used cement in the stuff I've done but have been on a lime short course. I suppose it could be argued that lime would be better for a roofing application as it's less brittle and if it does crack it can self heal. I don't know enough about it to advise on the mix or anything though. I have heard of builders chucking in some lime to lighten the mortar but as I had white cement and white sand I didn't need to do anything like that
Interesting in that your local council allows you to fix the ridge with mortar, mine insisted on a mechanical fix. I much prefer the look of a mortar ridge but I have to admit the mechanical fixing will probably stand the test of time better. I, also like to put a bit of water in the mixer first
You can do it with mortar but you also have to have a mechanical fixing too, so I have both. That's why everyone just does a dry verge now cause its mechanically fixed and is easier and quicker to install.
We mortar bed ridges on roofs that originally had that new builds we dry ridge their reasons for making it mechanical fix is stupid ridges don't often come off and some people are not impressed with a single screw holding their ridge down
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I've tryed everywhere locally and even the yellow or what they call misson grey sand is basically red! I've found some up near Scotland which is super light which will be just fine I think but it's expensive to get it down to South Yorkshire. It's a similar build to what your living in currently, taken alot of inspiration from border oak cottages Well done with the build coming together now 👍🏼
Hi Aiden. Very helpful videos. I have to remove, clean up and reset a line of ridge tiles. I wondered, how long does your mix remain workable for? Will the last of the mix still be useful after two or three hours?
Hey, as the roofing mortar is dryer than brickies muck I'd say it would be a push for 3hrs workable time. I'd say on average you would be OK on maybe an hour and half, even then you might have to add a tiny bit of water after an hour. You might be able to push it a little more because of the low temperatures at the moment though
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT The old method is to add Lime to the mix as it gives the mortar more flexibility and reduces moisture being absorbed into the structure . My builder friend said he'd use Lime and no plasticiser , I'm looking at both options and weighing up the difference . Thanks for reply .
@@-Atmos1 if you're going to use lime then I'd just go with that instead of cement and plasticiser. A lime mortar is abit more flexible/workable. It's also good because it can self repair small cracks so it'll probably last longer than a cement based mortar
It was indeed. I had it left over from the wall build and also wanted a little continuity across the site. I also used 'white' builders (soft) sand. Although the sand isn't actually white, just less yellow than usual and a tiny more expensive. Grey cement works just as good 👍
@@mitchhicken it's called white soft building sand. Sand colour usually varies all over the country. In my area I can get red or white but in some areas you can get silver.
It allway cracks no matter what your mix is I have tried loads of different mixes I even tried a roofers secret he used ceramic floor tile adhesive flexible external it last 2 year soon as sun heats it up the roof exspands boom it cracks the last time I used flexible like trowel mastic dried out and cracked I will not give in and fit a dry verg I have just painted my pointing with cromopol acrylic in black should have said my ridge tiles are staf blues with the 40mm lip glazed nightmare
Why is Tim do it so differently you're supposed to add your sand to your lime and let that mix thoroughly for at least 15 to 10 minutes before you even start adding your water to create a better mix in theory you're three to one should only be three buckets total but besides the point adding water first creates a weaker inferior mix it don't allow the sand and lime to mix thoroughly without clumping up you probably had to mix it for 45 minutes before it's done extra it is key to make sure you're sand and line mixed thoroughly together before you add water to it that's just the way it is tim
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Nice and easy to follow. Just what I needed. Cheers 👍
Have fun 👍
Im a roofer of 37 years. I incorporate SBR into my mix which improves bonding and also acts as an integral waterproofer.
Its appropriate to use SBR as its used with rendering base coats.
Toodlepip
What’s you mix please? I’ve verges to do and some ridge tiles to repoint. Slightly worried about the verges cos the existing stuff (50years old) is crumbling out and the undercloak is deffo asbestos. Some is still adhered to undercloak and don’t fancy disturbing it. Any help /advice appreciated.
Hi Aiden is white cement hydrated lime.like you im self diy person great job by the way tnx for your content it really helps
Dave🏴
Hey, no they're different things. They're both 'binders' but they have different properties. You would usually use one or the other. I've only used cement in the stuff I've done but have been on a lime short course. I suppose it could be argued that lime would be better for a roofing application as it's less brittle and if it does crack it can self heal. I don't know enough about it to advise on the mix or anything though. I have heard of builders chucking in some lime to lighten the mortar but as I had white cement and white sand I didn't need to do anything like that
Morning Aiden thank you for your swift reply mate any advice helps or a second opinion great job your doing thank you.
Dave🏴
Helpful video thanks
Interesting in that your local council allows you to fix the ridge with mortar, mine insisted on a mechanical fix. I much prefer the look of a mortar ridge but I have to admit the mechanical fixing will probably stand the test of time better. I, also like to put a bit of water in the mixer first
You can do it with mortar but you also have to have a mechanical fixing too, so I have both. That's why everyone just does a dry verge now cause its mechanically fixed and is easier and quicker to install.
Regulation since 2015 requires all ridge tiles wether new or old , dry fix or wet must be mechanically fixed also
We mortar bed ridges on roofs that originally had that new builds we dry ridge their reasons for making it mechanical fix is stupid ridges don't often come off and some people are not impressed with a single screw holding their ridge down
@@matthewthorley338 yes but why ? There are ridges bedded on 200 year old properties that are solid as rock
@@master_Blaster91 yep I fully agree , have to be a poor mix and installation to come off
Is this building sand the same sand you used on your garden wall? Trying to achieve a nice light mortar like yours, thanks aiden
It is indeed, they call it white soft sand round this way
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I've tryed everywhere locally and even the yellow or what they call misson grey sand is basically red!
I've found some up near Scotland which is super light which will be just fine I think but it's expensive to get it down to South Yorkshire. It's a similar build to what your living in currently, taken alot of inspiration from border oak cottages
Well done with the build coming together now 👍🏼
@@mitchhicken ah that's a pain, I'm in East Anglia. I know it varies all over the country
Hi Aiden. Very helpful videos. I have to remove, clean up and reset a line of ridge tiles. I wondered, how long does your mix remain workable for? Will the last of the mix still be useful after two or three hours?
Hey, as the roofing mortar is dryer than brickies muck I'd say it would be a push for 3hrs workable time. I'd say on average you would be OK on maybe an hour and half, even then you might have to add a tiny bit of water after an hour. You might be able to push it a little more because of the low temperatures at the moment though
Can you use Lime instead of a Plasticisers in the mix ?
I don't believe so, you can use lime instead of cement, they're both binders but cure differently.
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT
The old method is to add Lime to the mix as it gives the mortar more flexibility and reduces moisture being absorbed into the structure . My builder friend said he'd use Lime and no plasticiser , I'm looking at both options and weighing up the difference .
Thanks for reply .
@@-Atmos1 if you're going to use lime then I'd just go with that instead of cement and plasticiser. A lime mortar is abit more flexible/workable. It's also good because it can self repair small cracks so it'll probably last longer than a cement based mortar
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT
Cheers , that's useful to know .
personally I prefer water then cement then sand as helps reduce the cement dust flying around
Thats it builder boys,,, just chuck it in!
Was that white cement you used there?
It was indeed. I had it left over from the wall build and also wanted a little continuity across the site. I also used 'white' builders (soft) sand. Although the sand isn't actually white, just less yellow than usual and a tiny more expensive. Grey cement works just as good 👍
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT where did you get the white/grey sand and what exactly did you ask for we are trying to get a really light mortar colour
@@mitchhicken it's called white soft building sand. Sand colour usually varies all over the country. In my area I can get red or white but in some areas you can get silver.
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT where is your build? Looks superb
@@mitchhicken I'm east anglia
Where do you buy the white cement ?
It was from a local builders merchants. You don't need to use white cement of course, I just had this left over from the garden wall build
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT do you know what it was called the white cement the brand ?
@@haydnrzsupra Rugby White cement
have you tried the butchers
It allway cracks no matter what your mix is I have tried loads of different mixes I even tried a roofers secret he used ceramic floor tile adhesive flexible external it last 2 year soon as sun heats it up the roof exspands boom it cracks the last time I used flexible like trowel mastic dried out and cracked I will not give in and fit a dry verg I have just painted my pointing with cromopol acrylic in black should have said my ridge tiles are staf blues with the 40mm lip glazed nightmare
@@patterdalezipsuzilil have you tried a lime based mortar?
I was told by a roofer not to use plastisicer, builders use plasticiser, fairy liquid etc
Not sure why not, nhbc recommends using plasticiser. Means less water, less shrinkage. I wouldn't use fairy for anything other than for dishes
you forgot waterproofer
That would be a good addition probably 👍 I didn't even think of adding it cause I didn't see it in the NHBC guidance
Always water first.
Why is Tim do it so differently you're supposed to add your sand to your lime and let that mix thoroughly for at least 15 to 10 minutes before you even start adding your water to create a better mix in theory you're three to one should only be three buckets total but besides the point adding water first creates a weaker inferior mix it don't allow the sand and lime to mix thoroughly without clumping up you probably had to mix it for 45 minutes before it's done extra it is key to make sure you're sand and line mixed thoroughly together before you add water to it that's just the way it is tim
Please refer to my response to your other comment
If tis guy's three to one is three buckets total, I'd love to see him mix 1:1:1 🤪