Thank you for sharing that....I had a battery fail and after installing new battery starter would not crank....I bumped it using your method and it has been working since.
Your the most awesome-ness, I just make the first use of the word for the sake of praising all your wonderful skills, thank you my friend… 🌱💎👍🏼 Sincerely Sam.
I had the same situation and tried the jumping of the relay which yielded the same results you just showed. My issue with no crank using the key ended up being the main relay on the power distribution block (the big black one in the middle). I replaced that one and I crank with the key now and coincidentally the key releases from the switch now too.
@@BossTalkProductions I had purchased a used fuse block and it had relays and fuses on it. There are numbers on the relay. Google it and there will come up a number of purchase options.
Wouldn’t start , replaced this and that, added a ground did the ancient starting dance and six days later it was the ignition wire from the battery was broken 🥴 good times 🫠. As always great info thanx👍
I'm guessing you are refering to the wire that comes through that yellow fuse in the battery box up to the key switch? We've seen that break a few times as it passes under the floormat.
@@promastersonly1419, my ignition key kept getting stuck, when attempting to start. All lights, and radio functioned properly, making me think it was not the battery but a bad ignition. Went through your steps. Too often my mind thinks of the worst, when it was the oobvious. Bad battery.
Okay, that's pretty cool. I think if the key isn't detected, the van will start and run for a few seconds then die with the security light on the dash, the same one that signals someone opened it while locked (as when happens when your slider doesn't slam all the way shut and doesn't actually lock)
No not true kip my pm has been holding the key occasionally for the past four years and will not release it. All I do is open the driver side door and push forward on the van in a rocking tight motion. One push usually will free the key.
That’s going to be something with the lock mechanism in the steering column. I’ve encountered that on other cars, but not the promaster. You’re the first!
Hi Kip, thanks for the video. It was really helpful while troubleshooting my problem. I was suspicious that it could be the starter but after jumping the relay like you did here the engine turned over but still wont start. If i try to start it with the key, the engine wont even turn. It just makes a clicking noise ( starter sylinoid i think). Batt is def good, that was the first thing i checked. I was wondering if you knew if the promaster does this if the fuel pump was bad? Im thinking that since it turns over but wont start its a lack of fuel problem.
Hi, this is a great channel. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I have a 2022 which uses the fob - how do I set the key to run in order to try the force crank procedure? And yes, I have no mechanical skills. I shouldn't "no" as I do know how to remove the fuse box cover, LOL.
Showed you the pic of my meltdown. I got the battery up and crank tested. Now I just get a click down at the starter. No crank. Might be a melted wire in the bundle. Seems just the fuse 20 melted. I’ll try this tomorrow. Can’t catch a break . I tested all the fuses on the battery. I swapped relays. Dash lights up big time
@@promastersonly1419 I know but it only started after that wire burnt. It was fine till then. That short was something as it melted fuse 20 and a bit of the face of that big plug under it. I thought it killed my battery till last night. Took a 40 year old heavy truck charger to get it charged. Both my electronic chargers said bad battery. I have a electronic battery tester and it said 800 cold cranking amps and good so I’m happy with that. I’m going to try this and meter at the the starter. I have a wire toner too to check for shorts (or opens) on the line. Ugh
Just replaced the starter and I’m still getting just the click. Battery is new as well. Is it best to try and located the wire to the starter and see if there’s an issue or run a new wire entirely?
If you are just getting a click, you know your starter is bad is because power is clearly getting to the solenoid (the click) but the starter isn't turning. I suppose there could also be looseness in the big power wire to the starter, but you'd notice that by wiggling it. Also possible the engine ground is bad - it's coming off the transmission to the upper transmission mount area. i have a video on the engine ground.
@@promastersonly1419what’s interesting is I just found out it only jumpstarts from the outside terminals but not from the battery directly. So there must be a disconnect between the battery to power distribution box?
@@BossTalkProductions No, you could jump it directly from the battery, no difference. No switch or relay is actually between the battery and the underhood box - those terminals are directly connected together.
Haha science awesome! I can’t seem to find much on flushing a coolant system in a pro master when I go to search. Just your comment back to me about the thermostats and heater bleed spots. Video idea? 😎
I check all of this and it seems that I have a faulty brake light switch, the lights stay on. Do you know If that would cause my no start issue? I fully charged the battery so I know it’s good. I still have to manually release the key.
If it traps the key, it by definition means that power isn't getting to the column. There is a big yellow fuse and holder coming directly off the battery +. Check that.
Question my 2018 ram Promaster high roof cargo van steering wheel is super stiff has fluid ..warmed it up waited 30 minutes then it loosened up like nothing happened
That’s a new one! Other than the left turn signal canceller breaking, we literally never see issues with the pump or rack or any of that. Let me know if the condition returns.
I have a 2018 ProMaster van trying to turn the ignition key will not turn but I can pull out the key this happens all the time sometimes I press the brake pedal that makes any difference please help
If I tried this and my promaster won't start. I changed the starter, I have a good a battery and still same problem. Would you suggest the key housing is bad and needs replacement?
Multiple possibles. Bad wire to the starter solenoid, bad starter (possible), bad engine ground at trans (i have a video on that) no power to starter relay. But the jumper in the video tells you that your problem is after the relay toward the starter.
Hey so I am having a no start high coolant temp situation. I wasn’t able to drive for a month due to the p302 fuel injector crap then finally get the intake manifold bolts order as well as injector coil and plugs. Now it rains with my window down slightly and my van won’t start. Keeps loosing power on crank. The coolant light didn’t even come on until I tried to crank it the third time. Damn cowl seal is going to make me loose this van. What do you suggest? Burn it? Lol
Burning it is always an option. Start with the basics. Check the main engine ground, it runs off the side of the trans to the trans mount area. multi key the ignition to make sure there's fuel at the injectors. Verifty that the fuel isn't stale by hitting it with ether. Verify battery voltage. After that, it should throw a code of some kind, and that may point you in a direction.
@@promastersonly1419 I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. I’m going to check the grounds by the trans. It surges and says coolant temp high when I try to crank it. The temperature on the gage goes all the way up on crank to. I have this one sensor connection by the fan that seems like it’s missing plastic and is finicky on one connecter I can kinda of move it around but I tried to make sure it’s connected right. Idk what to do. Thank you for you help though. Too broke to even go get a code reader from auto zone until I get paid again. I’ll let you know if I can do anything else.
@@Joshuadelarosa-ce5tp From what you are telling me, it sounds like the temp sensor is wonky. It's in the cylinder head, more or less directly below the coolant bottle. Not certain, but if the temp sensor was telling the computer the engine was 1000 degrees, it may very well inhibit starting to protect itself. The thing to do would be to unplug it and see if it starts. There's a red plastic slide, and then it's just squeeze and pull. That sensor is $30 and very easy to get to, but it could be that the sensor is ok but the wiring to it is shorted or open. A code reader would tell you - you'd have a P0128 code or something related to temp. That the dash gauge thinks it's overheated is telling you something, because there is only that one coolant temp sensor in the system.
@@promastersonly1419 is there a way I can tag you in a video or something to show you what’s going on. It really just won’t even turn over now. The past few days it would fire up after I held the ignition but now it’s just like it looses power when I crank it
Hard to say. Battery issue? Bad engine ground? Assuming the battery is good, if you jump the relay the starter HAS to turn, and if it doesnt you have a bad starter.
@promastersonly1419 I jumped the relay no noise and then tried to just touch the 2 nut studs on the starter. Just a spark and once out of ten tries minor spin noise, but not engaging flywheel. Van runs like a champion before the trip to a grocery store lol. Battery excellent even jumped it with another car.
There's jump points right on the underhood fuse box (under a little flip cover). I'd go there because you could mount the charger nearby, and drop the cord out the bottom of the fender. Those jump points are directly connected to the battery terminals, so that's your best bet.
I call bs on the only reason those are the symptoms of a no crank , hold the key,my promaster will hold the key if there is pressure on the transmission “ remedy” I either stand up in the van with a surfboard position and rock the van forward and backward, which will release the key or I get out of the driver side and give a little nudge forward in the door jam, and this to release is the key
That's a new one. It's probably in the literature somewhere - it's the same computer as a Jeep or a Challenger so somebody somewhere will have documented it. If I had to take a wild guess, maybe flashing means it's overcharging as opposed to not charging. I keep on hand those dirt cheap amazon cigarette lighter/USB plug thingies with a voltage readout on it. This would act as your gauge, rather than relying on the batt light on the dash. Normal when running is 13.7 to 14.5v or thereabouts.
@ProMasters Only ground issues.. The only ground the promaster has is from the transmission to the chassis but mine was really corroded so wasn't providing any ground really so I added a ground from the engine bay to the chassis so far so good for me..
Hi All , is anybody had a same issue , my promaster 3500 wont start just cranking first or second attempt , third time starts right away , after it started works and drives absolutely fine , sometimes very rare it starts from 1st attempt, most of the time just cranking 5-10 seconds no start , then 2nd attempt 5-10 seconds no start , on 3d time starts fine . Thank you all , let me know if someone know the issue
Thank you for sharing that....I had a battery fail and after installing new battery starter would not crank....I bumped it using your method and it has been working since.
Not all heroes wear capes. Thank you for your skilled knowledge on these vehicles!
I will go back and watch every one of your videos.
Another amazing Promaster tip by Kip! Thank you SO much 🙏🏻
Your always making me smarter...Thanks!
Your the most awesome-ness, I just make the first use of the word for the sake of praising all your wonderful skills, thank you my friend… 🌱💎👍🏼
Sincerely Sam.
Thanks fella!
I had the same situation and tried the jumping of the relay which yielded the same results you just showed. My issue with no crank using the key ended up being the main relay on the power distribution block (the big black one in the middle). I replaced that one and I crank with the key now and coincidentally the key releases from the switch now too.
True - if the fuse block has no power, it has no power to send to the starter.
And how did you test it I have power everywhere and ignition seems to be ok
Can I ask where you got the relay to replace it or what are the specs?
@@BossTalkProductions I had purchased a used fuse block and it had relays and fuses on it. There are numbers on the relay. Google it and there will come up a number of purchase options.
Wouldn’t start , replaced this and that, added a ground did the ancient starting dance and six days later it was the ignition wire from the battery was broken 🥴 good times 🫠.
As always great info thanx👍
I'm guessing you are refering to the wire that comes through that yellow fuse in the battery box up to the key switch? We've seen that break a few times as it passes under the floormat.
@@promastersonly1419this comment saved us a tow. THANK YOU! Quick splice and we're on our way.
Thanks for sharing. Wish I knew this before but now I do so watch out now! ❤😎
Just had a starting issue this morning, with my key getting stuck. Great tips. Got it running.
Excellent. What was the fix? Battery related, I assume.
@@promastersonly1419, my ignition key kept getting stuck, when attempting to start. All lights, and radio functioned properly, making me think it was not the battery but a bad ignition. Went through your steps. Too often my mind thinks of the worst, when it was the oobvious. Bad battery.
@@cudiving2150 I love a happy ending.
You the man Kip !
Thanks man!
Thanks Kip from Seattle! Hoping you are busy and doing great! Keep up the good work.
Thank you, fella!
Excellent video.
Thank you so super helpful
... 'twas fine to spend time with you today Kip... thanks for sharing the goodness - Ha! ViewMaster for ever!
On sober reflection, the Viewmaster idea is really stupid, but I still want to do it!
Kip.. can't thank you enough for these videos.
Glad you are digging them.
Okay, that's pretty cool. I think if the key isn't detected, the van will start and run for a few seconds then die with the security light on the dash, the same one that signals someone opened it while locked (as when happens when your slider doesn't slam all the way shut and doesn't actually lock)
That’s true about the run and die. Must see the key fob present.
Sir Kip, Sir Kip, Sir Kip educational fun vids. Thank you sir
Nominate me for Knighthood!
No not true kip my pm has been holding the key occasionally for the past four years and will not release it. All I do is open the driver side door and push forward on the van in a rocking tight motion. One push usually will free the key.
That’s going to be something with the lock mechanism in the steering column. I’ve encountered that on other cars, but not the promaster. You’re the first!
Hi Kip, thanks for the video. It was really helpful while troubleshooting my problem. I was suspicious that it could be the starter but after jumping the relay like you did here the engine turned over but still wont start. If i try to start it with the key, the engine wont even turn. It just makes a clicking noise ( starter sylinoid i think). Batt is def good, that was the first thing i checked. I was wondering if you knew if the promaster does this if the fuel pump was bad? Im thinking that since it turns over but wont start its a lack of fuel problem.
Good thinking. The logical test would be to hit it with a shot of ether - if it starts or at least coughs you know you have a fuel delivery problem.
Hi, this is a great channel. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I have a 2022 which uses the fob - how do I set the key to run in order to try the force crank procedure? And yes, I have no mechanical skills. I shouldn't "no" as I do know how to remove the fuse box cover, LOL.
Gotta admit, no idea. The force crank should be the same, and it's only a diagnostic to see if the starter is the problem.
@@promastersonly1419 Thanks very much for the quick reply.
thank you for all the awesome conten tlove all the
You are welcome.
Showed you the pic of my meltdown. I got the battery up and crank tested. Now I just get a click down at the starter. No crank. Might be a melted wire in the bundle. Seems just the fuse 20 melted. I’ll try this tomorrow. Can’t catch a break . I tested all the fuses on the battery. I swapped relays. Dash lights up big time
A click with no crank implies the starter itself, but I could be wrong.
@@promastersonly1419 I know but it only started after that wire burnt. It was fine till then. That short was something as it melted fuse 20 and a bit of the face of that big plug under it. I thought it killed my battery till last night. Took a 40 year old heavy truck charger to get it charged. Both my electronic chargers said bad battery. I have a electronic battery tester and it said 800 cold cranking amps and good so I’m happy with that. I’m going to try this and meter at the the starter. I have a wire toner too to check for shorts (or opens) on the line. Ugh
Just replaced the starter and I’m still getting just the click. Battery is new as well. Is it best to try and located the wire to the starter and see if there’s an issue or run a new wire entirely?
If you are just getting a click, you know your starter is bad is because power is clearly getting to the solenoid (the click) but the starter isn't turning. I suppose there could also be looseness in the big power wire to the starter, but you'd notice that by wiggling it. Also possible the engine ground is bad - it's coming off the transmission to the upper transmission mount area. i have a video on the engine ground.
@@promastersonly1419what’s interesting is I just found out it only jumpstarts from the outside terminals but not from the battery directly. So there must be a disconnect between the battery to power distribution box?
@@BossTalkProductions No, you could jump it directly from the battery, no difference. No switch or relay is actually between the battery and the underhood box - those terminals are directly connected together.
Haha science awesome! I can’t seem to find much on flushing a coolant system in a pro master when I go to search. Just your comment back to me about the thermostats and heater bleed spots. Video idea? 😎
There’s not much to know. Pop one of the lower hoses, refill.
True 😅
I check all of this and it seems that I have a faulty brake light switch, the lights stay on. Do you know If that would cause my no start issue? I fully charged the battery so I know it’s good. I still have to manually release the key.
If it traps the key, it by definition means that power isn't getting to the column. There is a big yellow fuse and holder coming directly off the battery +. Check that.
Question my 2018 ram Promaster high roof cargo van steering wheel is super stiff has fluid ..warmed it up waited 30 minutes then it loosened up like nothing happened
That’s a new one! Other than the left turn signal canceller breaking, we literally never see issues with the pump or rack or any of that. Let me know if the condition returns.
I have a 2018 ProMaster van trying to turn the ignition key will not turn but I can pull out the key this happens all the time sometimes I press the brake pedal that makes any difference please help
Hard to say, but we have seen many problems with the key switch itself. I have a video on the key.
If I tried this and my promaster won't start. I changed the starter, I have a good a battery and still same problem. Would you suggest the key housing is bad and needs replacement?
Multiple possibles. Bad wire to the starter solenoid, bad starter (possible), bad engine ground at trans (i have a video on that) no power to starter relay. But the jumper in the video tells you that your problem is after the relay toward the starter.
Hey so I am having a no start high coolant temp situation. I wasn’t able to drive for a month due to the p302 fuel injector crap then finally get the intake manifold bolts order as well as injector coil and plugs. Now it rains with my window down slightly and my van won’t start. Keeps loosing power on crank. The coolant light didn’t even come on until I tried to crank it the third time. Damn cowl seal is going to make me loose this van. What do you suggest? Burn it? Lol
Burning it is always an option. Start with the basics. Check the main engine ground, it runs off the side of the trans to the trans mount area. multi key the ignition to make sure there's fuel at the injectors. Verifty that the fuel isn't stale by hitting it with ether. Verify battery voltage. After that, it should throw a code of some kind, and that may point you in a direction.
@@promastersonly1419 I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. I’m going to check the grounds by the trans. It surges and says coolant temp high when I try to crank it. The temperature on the gage goes all the way up on crank to. I have this one sensor connection by the fan that seems like it’s missing plastic and is finicky on one connecter I can kinda of move it around but I tried to make sure it’s connected right. Idk what to do. Thank you for you help though. Too broke to even go get a code reader from auto zone until I get paid again. I’ll let you know if I can do anything else.
@@Joshuadelarosa-ce5tp From what you are telling me, it sounds like the temp sensor is wonky. It's in the cylinder head, more or less directly below the coolant bottle. Not certain, but if the temp sensor was telling the computer the engine was 1000 degrees, it may very well inhibit starting to protect itself. The thing to do would be to unplug it and see if it starts. There's a red plastic slide, and then it's just squeeze and pull. That sensor is $30 and very easy to get to, but it could be that the sensor is ok but the wiring to it is shorted or open. A code reader would tell you - you'd have a P0128 code or something related to temp. That the dash gauge thinks it's overheated is telling you something, because there is only that one coolant temp sensor in the system.
@@promastersonly1419 okay I’ll try and check that out. Thank you!
@@promastersonly1419 is there a way I can tag you in a video or something to show you what’s going on. It really just won’t even turn over now. The past few days it would fire up after I held the ignition but now it’s just like it looses power when I crank it
I did that and nothing happened? The starter new. Bad exciter wire? Bad new starter? ( 2 months old)
Hard to say. Battery issue? Bad engine ground? Assuming the battery is good, if you jump the relay the starter HAS to turn, and if it doesnt you have a bad starter.
@promastersonly1419 I jumped the relay no noise and then tried to just touch the 2 nut studs on the starter. Just a spark and once out of ten tries minor spin noise, but not engaging flywheel. Van runs like a champion before the trip to a grocery store lol. Battery excellent even jumped it with another car.
@@user-ju8rr9rf1o search my videos for one on the ground strap.
Hello location of the crankshaft position for 2017 pro master
Back side of the block, near the differential cover. Easily accessible from the bottom.
Where’s the best location to add a battery tender for plug? (For detachable battery charger)
There's jump points right on the underhood fuse box (under a little flip cover). I'd go there because you could mount the charger nearby, and drop the cord out the bottom of the fender. Those jump points are directly connected to the battery terminals, so that's your best bet.
@@promastersonly1419 Thank you! Love your channel and all your great tips! Looking forward to see your new products 🥳
I call bs on the only reason those are the symptoms of a no crank , hold the key,my promaster will hold the key if there is pressure on the transmission “ remedy” I either stand up in the van with a surfboard position and rock the van forward and backward, which will release the key or I get out of the driver side and give a little nudge forward in the door jam, and this to release is the key
Hey kip what would cause battery flashing on my dash I replaced the battery already I tested the alternator and the alternator is fine..thanks..
That's a new one. It's probably in the literature somewhere - it's the same computer as a Jeep or a Challenger so somebody somewhere will have documented it. If I had to take a wild guess, maybe flashing means it's overcharging as opposed to not charging. I keep on hand those dirt cheap amazon cigarette lighter/USB plug thingies with a voltage readout on it. This would act as your gauge, rather than relying on the batt light on the dash. Normal when running is 13.7 to 14.5v or thereabouts.
@ProMasters Only thanks I keep you informed If I figure out ..
@ProMasters Only kip I found the problem ..
@@mtbbuddys2545 I'm dying to know. What was it?
@ProMasters Only ground issues..
The only ground the promaster has is from the transmission to the chassis but mine was really corroded so wasn't providing any ground really so I added a ground from the engine bay to the chassis so far so good for me..
Hi All , is anybody had a same issue , my promaster 3500 wont start just cranking first or second attempt , third time starts right away , after it started works and drives absolutely fine , sometimes very rare it starts from 1st attempt, most of the time just cranking 5-10 seconds no start , then 2nd attempt 5-10 seconds no start , on 3d time starts fine . Thank you all , let me know if someone know the issue
The worst vehicle ever
OK so force crank means I can drive it?
Really more of a test to see if the reason it wont start is the starter, or the key. But yeah, once it’s running you can drive it.
How do I get it to drive ?
:0
i love you
I love you too, muffin.
You listed everything- money, power, dog, etc. except woman.
Get any one of those, money power or a cute dog, you'll get the woman.