kioti ck2610 horsepower increase from 25 to 35ish !!! easy. takes about 20 mins.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2022
- increase horsepower kioti ck2610
simple, straightforward video of how to do this, with an up hill test on what the difference is.
cut off metal tube blocking the fuel screw.
back out fuel screw ( seems like 2 full turns is max, you really start to smell un burnt fuel after that)
very nicely done and I really like the way you tested the results.
Thanks for video. I have a Branson 2515. Kukje motor, same situation. I plan to turn up also. Only a few 25hp models with no electronics. Guys.... The whole point is "large frame, no emissions, bring back to pre-detuned limit". One has to ensure no electronics and that the motor has been de-tuned by OEM. Turning up a motor that hasn't been de-tuned could be very bad.
Nice! I have the same engine. Mine does the same thing. I'll def be doing this after the warranty
Great video! I’ve heard of you do that you should be air until after your warranty is up because it will void the factory warranty.
Have a 2410 , yes 2410, not 2610. This makes perfect sense to do this as my Kioti bogs down on a hill when cutting grass. Which makes no sense as the same engine is in many models. Thank You.
Great advice. Wish Kubotas were as easy. My only add, after you do the additional fuel input, watch closely the exhaust gas temp. If to High you could melt a piston. A probe is easy to install, inexpensive.
Adjusting the fuel is similar on a Kubota L2601/2602 (cut a cap, turn a nut/screw), but if you don't want that "incomplete combustion" he talks about at the end of the video, you need to advance the timing a little by removing spacers between the camshaft and the fuel pump.
Now on the L3302 (or 3902), it's all software and electronic-module controlled. In fact I'm pretty sure the mechanical specs for an L3302 are the exact same as the L3902; the extra $3k or whatever is just for a software flash to add fuel and advance timing.
Nice I’ll look on my CK30 hope it’s the same they suck bad up hill , high range is something I never use unless flat ground
Awfully tempting, my CK2620 comes in tomorrow but I don’t want to void the warranty 😅
Ima try this on my blender, thanks!
Very cool. I'd like to try that on a deere and hope for similar results.
It's only because the ck2610 is a detuned ck3510, the 2510 has 10cc less than the 3510. Kioti did this to stay under the 25hp limit.
Unlikely to get too much of a gain on most JD’s. Maybe a smidge boost
@MJF40 did it to a 1025. High range is actually useful now 👍
@@projectswithjw I did see that 👍🏻. Hard to imagine too much increase. Maybe a PTO test ?
Nice! My Bobcat 2025 same tractor.
I did it to my CK2610 the other day. I ended up having to turn it out (counterclockwise) 4 turns. It is like night and day on the power difference. You notice it right away when you rev it up, it's not delayed and it isn't sluggish on the hills anymore.
@@alittlebitofeverything5090 I wish there was a better way to take the tamper proof cover off. Try not to make obvious... warranty wise
@@MotoCheez I'm far out of warranty so I did it. There isn't a way to get it off that I could see without cutting it. I tried to regardless but it's pressed on there.
What you have same tractor as me as well.. and mini truck ... dude! getting worried HAHAH
thats good to know because im looking at the bobcat 2025 hst and i plan on doing it. I wonder if you can order a new cap and put it back on after.
Note: The 2024 Bobcat ct2025 with 3A165 diesel does not have a thin sheet metal sleeve cover on the adjuster screw. It is a machined piece with about a 0.100" thick steel wall. Attempting to remove it as described could probably do a lot of damage.
Thank you for the video! I was researching it just yesterday and your video popped up today. It looks like you have to cut the whole anti tamper cap off like you did. Do you think that cap can come off without cutting?
You need to cut it unfortunately. Be careful.. If I were to do it again I would have took more time / been more careful.
@@JerryULatowski I ended up using my baseboard oscillating trim cutter with the carbide blade. It worked well, I still nicked the jam nut a little but no big deal. I had to come out 4 turns on the adjustment screw. The tractors power is like night and day now! When I first got the tractor the front bucket was a little weak too. The adjustment for the pressure is under the rubber boot on the loader lever. Did you adjust yours yet?
I haven't looked at increasing hydraulic pressure yet.. maybe that's a spring time project. Do you have added weight/ ballast box? I just added one, what a difference!
@@JerryULatowski I always have the Kioti backhoe on it. Bought it with the tractor with financing. I wouldn't have been able to come up with 8k. I haven't had the rear wheels off the ground. I don't like doing it but it will hold a full pallet of wood pellets when I pull it off my trailer (2000lbs). I have to keep the curl function pinned and pinned as I lower it or it will tilt forward and then there's the mess! I have the psi set a 3,000 psi but the factory spec is 2600psi.
@@alittlebitofeverything5090 Sounds like you WILL be rebuilding the front axle very soon; -=its still a little tractor.
There's no other way to remove that cap besides cutting it? I would assume it can come off it was put on? I just got. 4010. Curious what I can turn it up to. I've seen multiple things about guys turning them up. Is there anything else you can do or is that adjustment the only thing??
Only work for all mechanical (not electronically fuel injected) tractors. 25hp or under.
@@AppalachiaDreamin ok thanks I have the 4010 40hp. It is a beast bso far very happ, but I've seen many people saying you can turn up HP on all sizes just different process. I had 3rd function added & got a grapple & sense found a 60" box blade I got delivered to my house last week for $500! It barely even looks used, has all the scaring bits just missing few pins. Heck of a deal on that
Do you know why there are two different settings on the dash for the PTO? They are only a few hundred rpm off?
I asked my dealer that and he sais some tractors and/or implements have a PTO economy mode, and the lower PTO setting is for that scenario.
Двигатели 3А139 и 3А165 построены на одном блоке?
Will this work on a 2014 dk40 se hst? Great video
No. This motor is a 35 hp motor detuned to be under the 25hp limit for emissions.
same for Kubota ?
How has this modification held up? Any other unintended consequences like overheating?
Everything going well! About 100 hours on since this modification.
My fuel adjustment screw moved a bunch when taking off the cover. Anyone know how many turns out from full stop in I should start with?
I don't know what is stock, but I think a good way to check if it's out too far would be black smoke from exhaust and a strong smell of fuel. So you could start there and work backwards ?
You can do the same thing to the 2510 1.4L. The lk3054 kioti had the 1.4L rated at 30.5hp 24.5 pto.
I bet if you adjust the timing a little bit, you could turn that fuel screw up a little bit more.
That’s the problem it’s 2 degrees off timing compared to the 35hp. So you aren’t getting 35hp. You are getting a few more hp and a world of problems
This is really cool I am tempted to try but how do you know this is ok to do? Wouldn't increasing the horsepower have the potential to damage arms and booms and stuff from over pressurizing cylinders? How do you know your transmission can handle the extra power?
@elevatedsciencesllc8089 this engine is the same engine as the others in its model range up to 39hp i think? Epa states any tractor over 25 hp needs expensive emissions technology. So this model was detuned.. or " locked out" with the little cap to stay below those standards. Im just bringing it back up to normal, just without the epa involved.
@@JerryULatowski Right, I'm with you on the EPA's bullshit, not a fan. But my understanding was the bigger engine models also have thicker steel arms and hydraulic rams etc. to support the extra hydraulic pressure, isn't that right? The lifting power is not determined just by engine output, but also by how much weight the frame can safely handle. So how do you know you are not exceeding the limitations of what the steel is designed to handle?
@elevatedsciencesllc8089 upping the hp did not up the hydraulic pressure. There is a limiter valve that would need to be adusted. There is a guy somewhere in the comments here who adjusted it. I agree i think the frame is maxed out on lifting power
@@JerryULatowski Ah, I see, so the real advantage here would be allowing you to have more GPM flow to run more implements at the same time?
Any update on how its held up? Run into any issues?
It blew up! Just kidding. It's running good. Have put another 70ish hours on since this video.
LOL@@JerryULatowski
Would this be the same on a cx2510?
I think so yes, it has that 1/2 inch "cap" that you would need to cut.. but that's the newer model right? Might want to wait till warranty is up..
@@JerryULatowski
Yeah it's new.
I wouldn't do it until warranty was over.
Did it increase loader lift or is there another adjustment for the loader lift.
There is another adjustment. There's a guy in the comments that did that.
Did this to my kioti dk40se NO POWER DIFFERENCE
Anyone put this on a dyno to confirm or is it just seat of the pants?
I think my method of testing is more than " seat of the pants" you can see in the video I stalled out on the hill, and then didn't stall out. You're like the third person to mention putting this on a dyno.. how many people have dynos? I don't think I've ever seen one in person.. do they sell them at Harbor Freight now? Is there a coupon?!
@@JerryULatowski damn, way to be a tool. Not one single thing did I say negative. Wasn’t hating. Wasn’t even talking to you. But yeah, if you live near a city you can find dynos. Might be a chasis dyno, could find an engine dyno.
Just interested. See, you turned up the fuel; but I know the timing is 2 degrees different. That could be a few HP. So maybe it’s 30horse and not 35horse. Not saying it isn’t, but going up a hill isn’t a metric. It’s an anecdote.
I’m all good with your content; but you don’t have to be an ass about it.
The only problem with doing this, is now it will be easier to damage the tractor with the power increased, the frame and drive train are designed for the power that the tractor came from the factory with.
In any other situation, I would agree with you, but this tractor is a 40hp tractor detuned to 25 hp to skirt emissions. So all components are designed for 40hp.
I have the same tractor but with the 40hp motor.
@@JerryULatowski I stand corrected then 🙂
Got dyno results on the pto to back up the claim?
I don't use the pto. Steep driveway / plowing snow were my reasons for doing this
@@JerryULatowski the pto power will tell us if you actually have 10 more hp regardless of it’s used.
@dooman700 yes I know how a dyno works. Do you really think I'm going to spend hundreds of dollars testing a free modification to tell 700 people on you tube the specific hp increase of my pto? It doesn't stall going up hills anymore. That's all the testing I need.
@@JerryULatowski if I was to make a claim , I would back it up. You feel free to make unbanked claims all you like.
@@doomman700 Owners already have to take for granted the OEM 25 hp rating. That's arrived at by adjusting the injector pump's rack travel limit as is shown here and is how many makers use the same engine (& displacement) for different hp classifications. Does the actual hp matter? Perhaps not, as while this is done on many tractors with mechanical injection it's the noticeable increase that's desired. btw, Many of us who operate CUTs are familiar with the method without having to actually measure the increase to appreciate it.
I WOULD NOT do this to a Non-Comp. Controlled Diesel .... I personally think you are asking for trouble within 100 hrs. !!
Good Luck !! 😏
If you wanted more HP on your tractor you should have bought one in the first place like a 50 HP
Once my unlimited money printing machine comes in, I'll get right on that... any day now.....
For real. The price jumps big time and the entry level tractors are already stupid money for what they are.
It looks like your engine is 100 CI, and the 35 is 110 ci.
That’s all we’ll an good but I don’t think I want to do that my tractor, if you have to cut stuff off with angle power saw then hammer the last little piece off, it just don’t sound right.
Keep tractor in low or med, to go up hill, you buy light wt. tractor not a 50 hp,
Do what you want but I’ll take care of what I have
That tractor was originally a 35 hp model that had it's power turned down to just under 25 hp only to meet the new emissions standard. The chassis is the same as the big 40 hp model. It's not a little tractor being modified beyond it's capabilities.
He is only cutting off a cap that stops anyone with a wrench from turning the power back up to normal and increasing emissions slightly. If you want to own a 35 hp tractor and only get 25 hp you are free to do so.
Mmm