1988 Camaro IROC - TPI: Stalls w/ Throttle Input Diagnosis & Case Study- Chevy Tuned Port Injection
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Good luck tracking down that issue. The only thing in that distributor is the ignition control module and magnetic pick up. The computer controls all the timing. You can take the module to autozone or similar autoparts stores and have it checked, make sure it has the thermal grease under the module not dielectric gel. You need to check to see if the engine is in open loop mode when you first start it. Open loop ignores the o2 sensor and uses the temp sensor to run, once it warms up it switches to closed loop and uses the o2 sensor to run. To check the loop put a jumper in the aldl and if the check engine light binks fast its open loop if it's sliw its closed loop
Good tip on the OL/CL I had no idea you could check it like that.
I put a new distributor in with no real change in my problem. It did make my timing more steady, but I still have the same issue. While it was running (with the reduced timing) it was in open loop (fast blink). I haven't gotten it to run right yet to see if that's when it switches to closed loop. I am reading some posts that talk about the Knock Sensor causing timing issues. Any thoughts?
@@AxlesGarage i don't know if the knock sensor works in open loop or not. I know it tells the ecu to increase or decrease timing based on the detonation it detects. There are two different knock sensors, 305 and 350 are different part numbers. It sounds temp related. You said you replaced the temp sensor. A lot of those sensors come with new pigtails because the wiring gets a lot of resistance in it after age. Try that. I bought a connector that i can attach a laptop to the obd port and see in livestream whats going on. It was from moates, i think they went out of business but there are others. From your description it seems like it takes a long time for the ecu to read the temp and once it does see that, it works fine.
Well i plugged in a new knock sensor, left it hanging under car (not in the block) just to see what if anything it did. Now all my timing looks to be good at idle with and/or without the timing wire connected. So it seems the lack of advance was actually the symptom not the real problem. At least I know the dist/timing is working properly now, but the main problem persists.
@jameshall4385 Like you have said now looking to the ect sensor. ( I'm slowly getting a lesson on how they run... CL/OL etc) Sure it's been replaced, doesn't mean it works right. At this point I feel like an idiot throwing parts at it. I ordered a new connector and sensor. What does the ECM do when the ect is disconnected? Is there a default safe value? Might be a good tryagnosic if there is a default value that keeps the car driveable?????
Check jegs I got a new distributor for my 89 5.7 formula for 89 bucks. Not sure that is your problem tho. Good luck with your project.
I ordered a new one, we shall see. Reasonably priced.
I have a 1987 350 TPI Iroc and had starting problems. I replaced lots of parts but in the end it was the dizzy. If yours is original, get rid of it! Too old and the electronics, remote coil etc on it should come with a new one. Replaced mine and it starts and runs perfectly.... It's not that pricey either. Napa...
Yep, I think a brand name replacement was just under $100 shipped.
do u have a ob1 code reader tools..?
Yes, no codes present