How to make a hydraulic lifter solid
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2014
- Made my hydraulic lifter solid to check valve to piston clearance on my ford 302 motor. Hope this helps you out.
This is only used to check PTV Clearance! Do Not run this in your motor
Lifter I used Sealed Power HT-2205 at oreilly auto.
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Nice work buddy. I pulled the same stunt with Melling JB-2250 yesterday. Identical construction and results. For those concerned, be advised that I needed to do this because my Comp Cams lite weight valve checker springs (4758-2) easily depressed the Ford Motorsport Hyd roller lifter (FMS-M-6500-R302). I have the intake off and you can easily see the roller lifter plunger depress. Honestly, I think the Comp Cams checker springs are for people using old school weak threaded push rod length checkers which will bend if used with the factory valve spring.
just did this same thing. no washers remove spring and check ball, flip the spring cup and reassemble. 50$ for this and a pushrod online....i spent less than 12$ for the same thing! great video, used this to check piston to valve clearance!
+Josh King works perfectly. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! This helped me quickly convert over some old sbf oem lifters to correctly check ptv clearance and get correct pushrod length. Quick and to the point.
No Problem. Glad to help!
Good knowledge of lifter thanks again
Forgot that flip. Thanks for the refresher!
Hehehe thats cool. I just bought some of the chinese roller lifers and was going to see what it will take to make them solid cuz I'm my mind I thought how hard can in be. I seen the inside of flat tappet hydraulic lifters so I thought there must be a way. So cool you did it before me. Thanks dude.
Thanks for a straight forward vid❤️
I had my doubts not using washers to shim it, BUT it works... simple and easy. Thanks
i have done this for years never once has the plunger been up top tight against the keeper without washers..even .020 below will mess things up on your PTV measurements
@@fishinfool63… we use washers when converting flat tappet hydraulics to solid. He is using roller hydraulics, it’s different internally.
Thnxs bro didnt think i would find anyting on the subject at all. I need to do exactly that, check ptvc. But im gonna keep my old lifters thou. Lol.
No problem 👍
Is a gen 3 hemi this same method ?
So I just did this, but my lifters are slightly different than yours. They're out of a 302 but I'm not sure the brand. The outside looks a little different and the insides were a little different too. They came out of my 347. I managed to get the internals flipped and got the clips back in and they can't compress now, but I think the inside plunger where the pushrod sits might be just SLIGHTLY taller than one that hasn't been converted. I'm going to get some calipers and measure, but I have a feeling it's a few thousands difference and could effect pushrod length. Ultimately it would just result in a slightly shorter pushrod than optimal, which isn't the end of the world and is better than one that's too long but I'll get back to ya with measurements when I get them.
I made the lifter solid to check ptv clearance. Not to run in a motor. Not sure what brand lifter it is. Got it at oriellys and one of the cheaper ones.
How do you know they are not working properly?
I can't get that second stage out of the lifter. I have tried to use a hook tool, banging it on a piece of wood, but no luck. If I use a pushrod, I can depress the spring further. Can you show how you used the pliers to get it out. Thanks
if your lifter is used it might be galled just use another one or tap the lifter upside down to knock it out
Did you use those washers that are in the video when you re-assembled the lifter?
Will Cowart No. Didn't need to
Can the lifters be returned back to normal hydraulic function and be run like normal in a motor or does it damage the internals
You could if you want to. I just got a cheap set to check pvc
What could happend if i run them?
My rebuild motor isnt running like i expect and i think that could be because of hidraulic lifters. They are new but in the preload i feel diferences between them. Making all the proces of timing and press oil, etc.
Sorry about my english.. and thanks!.
Dont run them! Only did this to check piston to valve clearance.
Just set the preload to the bottom of the plunger.
I know this is to check ptv clearance, but I need to switch to solid lifters but cant find any roller ones for my flat tappet block. do people ever run them like this as a solid lifter?
I don't suggest doing what i did here on a running motor. I only did it to check ptv. Is your block a roller motor?
its a flat tappet block, I found some solid roller lifters for it, push rods get here tomorrow and then it should have no issues hangin out around the rev limiter for ever! I was running Jegs retrofit hydraulic roller lifters but I guess they expect you to shift at their rpm limit, not sit there for 5 seconds at a time. you should come out to a competition sometime so we can get you addicted to drifting!
Guessing this would be the same for a rb30
you really need to add washers to make sure the plunger is at the top
Thats what I did and added till it was to the top
Step one. Remove lifters. Step two. Replace with solid lifters....
solid lifters is better than hydrolic ....or not...and its liv longlife or not or its bad for volvs
I made a hydraulic lifter into a solid to check piston to valve clearance
Holy shit dude, do you own nail clippers?
I know Right!
🤣🤣
Only with American engines.
This doesn't allow you to Check it correctly as you can't set the pre-load, guess you can always guess hu.....?
If you need to find proper pushrod length, or check piston to valve clearance, you need to use a solid lifter. This method is excellent for doing that. A hydraulic lifter with no oil pressure inside will compress too much.
U add the .050 (pre-load) to your push rod length
Add it to it dumbass, you know 2 plus 2, 3 plus 1, etc
or just buy them...
That too..
Isn’t that a bit caveman...?
I sure hope you dont run these in a motor? Only done to check pvc