Engine Building Part 10 - Hydraulic Lifters, Choosing, Cleaning, Assembling, Installing Roller Lifte
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- All about hydraulic roller and solid tappet lifters. Disassembly, cleaning, operation and assembly. How hydraulic lifters work,
automotive engines diagnosis repair rebuilding
automotive engines diagnosis repair rebuilding pdf
best book for rebuilding engines
books on how to build engines
books on rebuilding car engines
books on rebuilding engines
chevy performance engines
crate engines vs rebuilding engine
ford performance engines
gm performance engines
guide to rebuilding engines
high performance engines
how to build 4.6 ford engines
how to build a car engine at home
how to build a car engine for dummies
how to build a car engine from scratch book
how to build a car engine step by step
how to build a car engines
how to build a custom car engine
how to build a fast car engine
how to build and modify gm chevrolet engines
how to build and modify gm ls-series engines
how to build big block chevy engines
how to build big block ford engines
how to build big-inch gm ls-series engines
how to build buick engines
how to build car engine from scratch
how to build car engines
how to build chevy engines
how to build classic hot rod v8 engines
how to build clone racing engines
how to build drag race engines
how to build ford engines
how to build ford fe engines
how to build high performance chrysler engines
how to build high performance engines
how to build high performance pontiac engines
how to build high torque engines
how to build honda engines
how to build killer big-block chevy engines
how to build max-performance ford 5.0 coyote engines
how to build max-performance ford fe engines download
how to build small-block ford racing engines
how to build your first car engine
how to build your own car engine from scratch
how to remove carbon buildup in engines
performance crate engines
rebuilding alfa romeo engines
rebuilding audi engines
rebuilding auto engines
rebuilding big block chevy engines
rebuilding bmw engines
rebuilding boat engines
rebuilding car engines
rebuilding chevy big block engines
rebuilding chevy engines
rebuilding classic car engines
rebuilding diesel engines
rebuilding diesel engines cost
rebuilding engines for a living
rebuilding engines for dummies
rebuilding ford big block engines
rebuilding ford engines
rebuilding ford fe engines
rebuilding g35 engines
rebuilding gm ls engines
rebuilding small block ford engines
tools for rebuilding engines
Subscribed,Pete you have the face of honesty and knowledge,been working on cars all my life but i enjoy watching others work,excellent video.
That is so nice of you, thank you
I appreciate your videos, but let's not forget. The purpose of the hydraulic lifter, (roller, or flat tappet), is to ease maintenance of the valvetrain, and to quiet it down, and so you don't have to set the lash every few thousand miles. The oil pump is going to pump oil to the rest of the valvetrain through solid lifters as well. Some people are not aware that "solid" only means there are no moving parts. (plunger, spring, retainer, etc...). They do have an oil port machined into them to channel oil through the pushrods, to the rockers. Not trying to be a jerk. I just thought that info should have been included.
Excellent point, thank you for the information.
RP Manone is correct. i like the video but you should fix it. alot of people don't read the coments and theres enough false info out there without adding to it. think of the hydraulic lifter as the shock obsorber of an engines valvetrain the ports in the lifter like ports in a shock relieve pressure in a metered amount to control and protect the valvetrain like a shock controls and protects the movements of a suspension. so advantage and disadvantage of a hydraulic lifter is when there is too much pressure on the lifter for example like a short over rev situation the lifter relieves the pressure to help keep from bending pushrods or rocker arms or damaging the cam lobes and with that protection the parts last longer also when you use solid lifters you have to leave a few thousandths lash to account for heat expansion of parts and to keep parts from binding that lash causes some valvetrain noise and requires regular adjustment as the parts wear. disadvantage of hydraulic is the oil pressure inside the lifter is what allows the valve to open fully allowing more air and fuel so when your oil gets low the first thing you usually hear is the lifter tap the lifters are collapsing and not opening the valves fully, reducing power. but even with full pressure under racing abuse at super high rpm's the lifters can partially collapse reducing engine power so some race engines will use the solid lifters to keep the valves open under extreme abuse and high rpm's. so to sum it up if you have a extreme performance high rpm race car that gets checked and adjusted after every race solid lifters are for you but everybody else your probly better off sticking with the hydraulic lifters that are capable of making plenty of power. but remember like having the right valve springs for a cams lift you also need the right calibrated lifters for your cam as well.
@@trishapinczes7818 Rubbish. The whole 'solid rollers are for race engines' is 90s nonsense. So long as you have the right springs in it, and you break it in and then do the lash again, you're good to go. I've done 10,000 miles on a 950hp solid roller 350 chev - entirely street driven - and the lash is still perfect. The only thing you want to do is check it to make sure it hasn't changed, but no adjustments needed.
If you have a 3,500hp doorslammer engine - of course you're going to be checking the lash every half an hour or so, which is where this stupid rumour comes from.
Almost ANY engine these days - aside from the very very mild - will benefit from a solid roller cam. Or, you can be like everyone else who believes the rumour, fit a hyd roller, and then with any half decent power of 600hp+, wipe lobes and cause valvetrain damage every other month. If you had any idea what NASCAR had to do to get the cam system to stay together without even a roller cam, you would appreciate that even after all their development, that the cam and entire valvetrain was basically junk after a few hundred miles.
I run a Comp Cams street solid roller Extreme Energy Xr292R in my 438 Windsor 68 Mustang. I use all the good parts including Isky Bushed Lifters. Cam is 621 627 lift 254, 258@50 duration. Lash was checked at 500 miles and spot on. Lash was checked again 2 years later after 1800 miles and 2 exhaust valve lifters off .002-.003. Rest were off like .001. Car sees consistent 7200 rpm blasts and full throttle runs on street. Car is driven hard. I have no idea why lash backed off .002-.003 on 2 lifters but it did. Isky bushed are supposed to be the best. Can't see how you went 3k miles and lash never moved. But maybe you have smaller cam than me, or you don't run car to 7200rpm. Solid roller lash should be checked at least every 2 years. I am guessing maybe those 2 isky bushed lifters may be wearing or something else wearing. But to go 3k miles in a 950hp solid roller car and no lash change is hard to fathom. Unless you drive real mellow all the time. But who drives a solid roller car mellow?. Also. Comp cams needle bearing lifters are crap and ruined a motor i had before. That's why i went isky bushed. Maybe motor was still breaking in and that's why some lifters moved. But i have heard isky bushed are the best.
I run a Comp Cams street solid roller Extreme Energy Xr292R in my 438 Windsor 68 Mustang. I use all the good parts including Isky Bushed Lifters. Cam is 621 627 lift 254, 258@50 duration. Lash was checked at 500 miles and spot on. Lash was checked again 2 years later after 1800 miles and 2 exhaust valve lifters off .002-.003. Rest were off like .001. Car sees consistent 7200 rpm blasts and full throttle runs on street. Car is driven hard. I have no idea why lash backed off .002-.003 on 2 lifters but it did. Isky bushed are supposed to be the best. Can't see how you went 3k miles and lash never moved. But maybe you have smaller cam than me, or you don't run car to 7200rpm. Solid roller lash should be checked at least every 2 years. I am guessing maybe those 2 isky bushed lifters may be wearing or something else wearing. But to go 3k miles in a 950hp solid roller car and no lash change is hard to fathom. Unless you drive real mellow all the time. But who drives a solid roller car mellow?. Also. Comp cams needle bearing lifters are crap and ruined a motor i had before. That's why i went isky bushed. Maybe motor was still breaking in and that's why some lifters moved. But i have heard isky bushed are the best
Hi Pete Just wanted to tell you I have a very popular automotive you tube channel that is machine shop based I have many engine builds from start to finish I pride myself on putting out videos that have accurate info and procedures,
there are so many engine building videos that are terrible! bad lighting /bad information tons of profanity and so on however I have nothing but respect for you, your videos are very good some of the best I have seen keep up the good work well made videos and your information is spot on I always find myself watching videos and saying what is this guy talking about so much bad info with your videos I can't really find anything you have said that is wrong GREAT JOB!
and Pete did not resort to begging for money from viewers.
Thank you my friend, I have to admit I've watched some of your videos to do a sanity check on a few things before I said them. I doubt myself often and you are a great resource to confirm what I think. Your video are also excellent, they have helped me a time or two. If I watch a video laced with foul language and low class behavior, I skip it. It's disappointing to see people with no respect for themselves, they are the ones that give car guys a bad name. Thanks again!
Pretty funny----Pete and My Vintage Iron are the two guys I'm relying on for my first SBC rebuild (vortec head swap recommended by MVI)!
Your videos are outstanding! I've been on your channel numerous times.
The spring is for preload it does not act as a pump, oil pressure "pumps" up the lifter. solid lifters oil through the lifter and pushrod same as hydraulic lifters. hydraulic lifters require less maintenance to keep valve lash/preload in check, solid lifters have to be checked and relashed
That is true
Not all solid lifters have oil running through them.
My friend went full roller with all Howard's stuff and the end result was way beyond what I ever would have thought. I run flat tappet but will be going roller next go around.
Interesting, thanks for sharing
Great channel, very informative. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I finally know how lifters work. Thanks Pete. Awesome video
Thanks my friend
I never knew how important the lifters were, great information Pete.
Glad to help
Thanks Pete
Best video on RUclips! Great explanation, TYVM!
Wow, thanks!
Thanks Pete, I had questions on what was best and why. Another great video.
Thanks my friend
Very Great Video.Well Done
Thank you my friend
I like those aluminum heads. I was reading an article that said that the new modern heads are better than the coveted double hump fuelie heads.
Quite possible
They flow better but will they still be around and in use 50 years later.... I don't think so!
Another informative video Pete. Thx again for sharing your knowledge👍👍👍👍
Thanks Mick
I learn a lil something from almost all your videos. But I learned so much from this one! Thank you for doing what you do!!!
Thank you very much Flint
Flint there is one detail you missed and he didn't talk about.
I run a Comp Cams street solid roller Extreme Energy Xr292R in my 438 Windsor 68 Mustang. I use all the good parts including Isky Bushed Lifters. Cam is 621 627 lift 254, 258@50 duration. Lash was checked at 500 miles and spot on. Lash was checked again 2 years later after 1800 miles and 2 exhaust valve lifters off .002-.003. Rest were off like .001. Car sees consistent 7200 rpm blasts and full throttle runs on street. Car is driven hard. I have no idea why lash backed off .002-.003 on 2 lifters but it did. Isky bushed are supposed to be the best. Can't see how you went 3k miles and lash never moved. But maybe you have smaller cam than me, or you don't run car to 7200rpm. Solid roller lash should be checked at least every 2 years. I am guessing maybe those 2 isky bushed lifters may be wearing or something else wearing. But to go 3k miles in a 950hp solid roller car and no lash change is hard to fathom. Unless you drive real mellow all the time. But who drives a solid roller car mellow?. Also. Comp cams needle bearing lifters are crap and ruined a motor i had before. That's why i went isky bushed. Maybe motor was still breaking in and that's why some lifters moved. But i have heard isky bushed are the best
Do you run a stock non roller block?
@@terrorofdemons1168 Ford Racing SVO splayed, siamese bore, 4 bolt mains all 5 caps.
Hi Pete, I really did like the hydraulic lifter video, all with great detailed information. Tony
Thanks Tony
I just ordered the Howard Cam link bar lifters....I just love throwing money into the Windsor! lol.....Big bucks Pete. It's a days wage..what the hell!! ..thanks again for the info....your vids rock!
Thanks David, good luck
Thank you Man! For the details on this work 💪🤝🥰
My pleasure!
Thanks a lot, I couldn't find what a roller lifter was and what were the differences, now I know!
Glad I could help!
Pete you´re bad ass!!Thanks!!
Thanks Charlie
Thanks Pete! I really appreciate your explanation on how hydraulic lifters function. No kidding, this has been something I’ve wondered about for decades!
Please help me clarify two details:
1. When the cam first pushes the lifter, is it hydro-locked, or does the push rod cap sink into the lifter, pumping oil up the push rod?
2. Is the push rod cap physically bottomed-out inside the lifter to cause the push rod to rise, or is the lifter hydraulically locked which results in moving the push rod?
Thanks again! This is awesome.
It is locked at the bottom and pressurizes on the way back down. I'll try to illustrate that somehow. The pushrod just sits in the the lifter and once the lifter gets pumped up it is solid, taking up the valve lash.
And now, I love solid lifters even more...
An why is that?
@@PetesGarage Two reasons. More parts is more opportunity for problems and hydraulics can be finnicky if spring pressure fades [lifter or valve] putting preload outside a certain window - nothing is maintenance free. Solids allow a bit of tunability to optimize vacuum or top end performance. Also... I'd rather check valve lash than pull the manifold to maintain valvetrain.
Searching around the YT for cam intel, gathering data. After the "just rebuilt" engine in my 62 C10 project truck rounded a cam lobe, seeing all the trouble on the internet, I'm not so sure I should have ordered a Comp 274H cam. Probably going to spend the money for a roller retro, but man they are expensive. In the 5 years since this video was made the kit is now $1100-$1500 now depending on if it includes pushrods and chain components. .
After that it's Comp, Lunati, Howards or another brand I haven't thought of?
I've used Comp a lot without issues. Lunati might be the next best bet
Hey I enjoy your reply,s Heres a good one When I was a teenager I had push rod Fiats, and twin cam engines,, this will piss every one off but I like to set my valve lash when the motor is hot, yeah i know its not fun. , I set each cylinder at TDC to set the valve lash, im talking solids plus I rock the crank back and forth to check for timing chain slack wear, it may take longer, but it works for me
Interesting, whatever works
fantastic video. Thank you!
Thank you my friend
very very good info and teaching, keep'em coming please. A BIG thanks bud!
Thanks Mike....will do!
Honestly if your that far in might as well go with roller lifters because flat tap wear out fast with hp sounds awesome but who wants to tear it all down to replace
Good point
Thanx again, Pete. I asked about new lifters in comments on another video, and this video clearly answers my question. Cleaning in mineral spirits should release new lifters so I can verify free piston/plunger movement. But it is funny, I find zero specs on acceptable wear limits on piston side clearance and spring pressure in the hydraulic roller lifters. Not even a roller wear limit for it’s 2 dimensions of movement or roller circumference. Why doesn’t anyone talk about specific wear limits or spring pressure on hydraulic roller lifters?
I would think because lifters are cheap enough to replace when you're rebuilding the engine. I've only reused solid lifters if the cam side is still in good shape. Great questions....
Thank you for the Video. I have a Flat Tappet Ford and I am debating between buying a Retrofit roller kit vs. buying a used Short block!
Retro fit kit and build it yourslef
I rebuilt the OE motor with bearings and hone job, andnew Molly rings. But I have 2 cylinders that didnt seat good. After only 15k miles I have blow bye. But I want a roller motor. Found short block roller mustang 302 yesterday for 100 bucks.
Great video !!!
Glad I found your video, I’ve built no telling how many flat tappet sbc engines, were fixing to convert a 78 010 high nickel block 4 bolt to roller cam for a supercharger, thx for sharing
Very cool!
High nickel 🤣🤣🤣. That’s a old wives tale. A cast iron block has 0 nickel content at all. The only good 010 casting blocks are the 73 and older heavy casting blocks that have the 2482 nodular main caps
Bubba ever had a cam go flat ?
@@brandonbell3089 Lots of old wives tale around. Bet it was a Corvette block too.
Yes cam I have, I’ll never build a flat tappet cam engine again, the roller is much better 😀
Hey Pete...love your channel and your tutorials. I'm new to Chryslers. My last Chrysler motor build was a huge success. And in no small part thanks to u, but I wanted a little more punch so I have decided to increase my cam lift a little bit (going from .488 to .545 lift) and in the process, I'm also upgrading to a roller cam and heads because the break-in on a flat tappet cam is always so stressful for me. Now I'm reading a lot of stuff about a roller cam requiring the same break-in procedure at 1800 -2000 rpm for 20-30 minutes or the cam will go flat just like a normal flat tappet cam. l think I saw u using a break -in oil, on another build w/ roller cam ( BB chevy maybe?) but does that mean I should be using a break-in oil with my Chrysler motor (like this one) and equally important, does it need to be broke in just like a flat tappet cam? 440 source says no need to worry of cam failure if using a roller cam. But I trust you and would like clarification on this subject. Thanks man.
A roller really does not need a break in, but I use the break in oil on every first run
Thanks Pete...Appreciate it very much. You're the best!
Cheers Dave
Thanks Dave
Good educational video that's what I'm seeing so far on RUclips I think a couple of my lifters have broken Springs in them
It would be good to know why the broke
@@PetesGarage I got the motor for cheap 5 3 lm7 120km installing it in my OBS 96 1500 and I'm guessing I got it for cheap cuz the last guy ran it low on oil so I'm replacing a couple of pushrods lifters and Rockers and hoping for the best
Great video. Thanks
Thanks my friend
Awesome info Thanks Pete
Thanks my friend
nice vid , don't forget oil in the lifter under pressure inside the lifter takes up the valve train lash under hydraulic lock an bleed down.
Absolutely, thanks for the comment
Hey wait....so are you saying that the check valve and bleed down are the secret sauce that makes hydraulic lifters self-adjusting???
That’s one of the magical mysteries I’ve been trying to get my mind around for a long, long time.
I think I finally got it.
Yes, the check makes it solid on the way up and on the way down the pushrod compresses the spring and oil is pumped up. The check on the bottom does the adjusting.
yes when the oil in a lifter has no where to go it act as though it is solid until it bleeds out
Very helpful Pete!
Thanks Hunter
this is excellent, great channel.... subbed
Thanks Simon and welcome
Hi Pete, great video as always. Thanks for the lesson on hydraulic lifters. Never realized how complex they are.
Did you announce the winner of the bottle opener? Sitting here with a cold one waiting for the news and very thirsty.
I will announce today
THX
I say this because my old lifters have like 1/8” piston/plunger side play and no spring pressure to speak of.
There are so many variables.
A simpler explanation has to do with reduction of friction at the lobe that allows for much higher valve spring pressure and that allows for more aggressive cam lobe profiles.
True
another great vid. tks Pete
Thanks my friend
Fascinating how the hydraulic lifter has that little check valve so it pumps up the oil ! thanks
Great point!
Did you forget to mention that 15 of 16 flat tappet lifters prefer zinc infused motor oil.? And that O2 sensors do not like zinc?
I did not forget, it is really difficult to put every little piece of info in every video. Thanks for the comment.
I like your garage awesome video.
Thank you very much my friend
Another thing to add for hydraulic lifters, coat in oil and then wipe the face off and smear a little cam lube on it before installing,
Thanks
And now for a completely different set of opinions on this subject.
Solid lifters pump oil to the top end just exactly like hydraulic lifters do. They have to or your rockers and springs would never get any oil and they would fail. The difference is that hydraulic lifters use a hydraulic component inside the lifter for valve lash. With solid lifters you are required to adjust valve lash manually with the correct width feeler gauge when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam.
The roller reduces friction idea is a myth. The needle bearings that allow the roller shaft to roll are a source of friction and so is the roller wheel. Any time there is metal to metal contact there is friction regardless if the metal is rolling or not. The oil film only reduces the amount of friction by putting a molecular cushion between the metal parts so they don't destroy themselves. The oil film absorbs some of the friction which is a main reason that the oil gets hot. Same thing happens in a torque converter. Working the oil induces heat.
A molecular level of oil film sits between the flat tappet lifter and the cam. The same applies for a roller. If it didn't do that, the lifter would wipe the cam lobe every time. It is only during the initial start up for the first few minutes that the cam lobe and flat tappet lifter face are worn in or mated. Actually, it is a hone operation that is built into the cam lobe face.
Building an aggressive flat tappet engine is a bit more aggravation than a roller because at a certain level of aggressiveness on the cam profile you have to remove the inner valve spring for break in to prevent the lifter from wiping all the oil film off the cam lobe and that is what causes the cam lobe to be wiped. I've been running flat tappet solid cams and lifters for over 20 years. Never wiped a cam lobe.
The always adjusting lash with solids is also a myth. The solution to that was invented eons ago and that is the poly lock. I check mine after the initial run in and then once every 6 months to a year. 6 months if it is a drag engine and once a year if it is a street engine. Regardless, the same applies to lash adjustment whether it is a flat tappet solid or a roller solid.
Roller lifters are actually worse than flat tappet lifters in one significant respect. They are much heavier and moving the lifter up and down thousands of times per minute is more of a drag on power than with a flat tappet lifter.
An advantage of a roller package is that you can re-use roller lifters with another cam but I would never advise doing it. New cam gets new lifters every time at my place. With flat tappet lifters and cam lobes matched, it is really not that hard to number them if you have to pull the cam and lifters for some reason. People that don't or can't seem to do that are just lazy. In all my engine work, the only time I have pulled a flat tappet cam and lifters is to replace it.
Another disadvantage of roller lifters is what happens when a lifter fails. Most often, when a flat tappet does fail for some reason you are out a cam and lifters and flat tappet cams and lifters are relatively not expensive. When a roller lifter comes apart you have generally destroy the entire engine(not always, generally) because most often it is the roller that comes apart due to needle bearing or roller shaft failure. It will crack the lifter bore or bores, throw needles down into the engine and pretty much destroy it. Another common way the rollers fail is unlatching a link bar and I've seen link bars break. The roller rotates sideways and then destroys the cam, lifter bore or bores and the block.
The are only a couple of advantages the roller lifter has. One is that you can run a more aggressive cam lobe and you get a broader power curve. The other is that you can run a higher lift with a roller before you risk the edge of the lifter face digging into the cam.
Awesome comment! Thank you for taking the time to share
🔥🔥🔥A hundred years ago, (well, maybe 50 or so,) when we used to build engines, we would drown the hydraulic lifters in oil overnight to fill them just before installing the pushrods and rockers to get a more accurate initial adjustment. Do you think that's something we should do with hydraulic roller lifters? BTW, Great video 👍👍👍
Sure, you can still do it, certainly won't hurt. I pump them up with the pump to make sure oil is circulating properly
@@PetesGarage Interesting, especially since Comp's instruction sheet says NOT to pump up their hydraulic lifters, but to simply clean and oil them.
@@marlinguyaustin my Morels said not to soak them in oil too. I think it's an old school habit that doesn't really do anything positive.
@@dannymccarty344 Dropping them in oil just to coat them prior too installation is what Howards Cams recommended to me for my roller lifters.
@@dannymccarty344 Probably from the same battery on the ground people and how a crankshaft should never be left on its side,on the latter one i actually read a pretty comprehensive thing about it a few years ago proving that wasn't true however those habits die hard and it doesn't hurt anyone standing it,when i see a crank sitting on its side it takes me about 3 seconds to right it back up,lol
Good video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Pete, Quick question. What is the best way to estimate engine HP in the design phase? I have seen many engines built and helped during different areas of the build as my friend does dirt track racing, but this will be my first build and want it to go off without a hitch as it is going in a street car and want to make sure things are done right. Any insight and help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Also thanks for all the videos they are a great help.
A basic rule of thumb is that you should be able to get 1 HP per cubic inch just by cleaning it up and putting in some mild performance parts. Once you start to get over 500 HP it takes a bit of experience to pick parts.
@@PetesGarage thank you for the quick reply!
Thanks bro.
You got it Sam
You may have already covered this but do I have to change the length of my pushrods with this type of lifter? Also do I have to change the rockers as well? Thank you very much for your video really good watch
You may have to change the pushrod, but not the rockers
Great video
Thanks!
Thanks Pete. Great Video. I never knew a hydraulic lifter has so many parts.
There are, but they are simple devices.
Hi I have a 73 Nova with a 350. I want to go roller tired of wiping out flat tapped. I'm confused I keep seeing video's of a spider being installed to convert to roller cam?
The spider prevents the lifters from rotating
Awesome video and explanation Pete! Just two quick questions:
1. What happens if the plunger on the lifter has no movement at all. That is, it doesn't feel "springy", it only feels hard?
2. When putting them in, what if it takes good force to get them in, and they feel rough going up and down?
1) They are either frozen or locked hydraulically
2) They are the wrong size. Get the right size or hone out the bores
@@PetesGarageAwesome! Thanks for the reply Pete.
1989 ford mustang 5.o roller short block xxx e303 heads gt 40 can you put these together
Sure
I have 327 motor . Can I change flat hydraulic lifter to roller hydraulic lifter and roller cam . Thank you
Sure
I'm almost 100% sure that hydraulic cam lifters do not "pump" the reason they have all the mechanisms you illustrated, are for the engine's oil pressure to make the lifters turn into a solid lifter after engine starts. When oil pressure has depleted because the engine was turned off, the lifters relax, allowing the engine to turnover more easily for the next start. I could be wrong, but I don't think so.
If the lifters relax the check valve is leaking
If you push the plunger down while removing the clip it will never go flying.
Absolutely
Found out recently that our You tube mentors do not get paid if you don't play the ads! So play the ads....... just mute them like you do on tv
Thanks Sandy
From the early nineteen nineties most manufacturers have designed their engines to use and installed roller lifters and cams in their engines.
Interesting
hey, was just wondering, I have a set of crane roller tip rockers, not cheap, however, I smoked my cam my have metal in the bearings of the rollers , can I clean them with a hydrosonic cleaner or should I start over with new?
Sure, take them apart and clean them up. I do it all the time.
How about if .. I were to upgrade to roller lifter . would I have to shorten the push rod size ?
Yes
I was waiting to see what holds them in
It's worth the wait
I have watched several videos on dis assembling a lifter. Everyone does it pretty much the same way, and it works very effectively for everyone. EXCEPT ME ! The piston inside my lifters, will NOT come out. In have tried all the tricks I have seen, like pushing the check ball down to relieve suction. I even tried heating the lifter up a bit, based on the simple premise that air expands when heated. That didn't work either. I thought maybe I just had a stubborn lifter. I tried 3 more. Same thing. I am at a loss. Do I simply need new lifters? Thank You
Try high air pressure in the side oil hole
@@PetesGarage Thanks, I'll do that, but I already bought new lifters.
Hello friend, I have a question related to this, if I remove all the lifters and activate the oil pump, should the same amount come out of all the ducts that feed the lifters? I am telling you this because in my engine, with the engine running and the rocker arm covers removed, not all of them release the same amount of oil on the rocker arms and if there is one that shoots jets that make the pressure clockwise The oil oscillates, is it possible that this lifter is causing so much noise in the engine, knock-knock type, and that the oil does not reach the other lifters properly, why does the pressure go away from that one? Greetings I hope you can help me
If you run the pump without the lifters you will only get oil out of a couple lifter bores. Without the lifters in, there is no way for pressure to build up. If you are using the old lifter they could be clogged, collapsed or have bad check valves.
A very informative video. I'm looking into converting a 400 to hydraulic roller, and wasn't sure if you had the link bar that you still need the spider or dogbone. Just the durability,the more choices for oil, and lack of maintenance for a roller setup makes it worth it to me. Then on top of that the possibility of more aggressive cams. I am wondering though, would there be anymore benefit of running zddp in the oil still with hydraulic roller tappets and hydraulic roller rocker arms?
With a roller you don't need special oil, but it doesn't hurt
I'm building a 70 ls7 454 and I'm putting a roller camshaft in can I just order a set of roller push rods or do I have to measure them all
You should measure because they do come in different lengths
Pete where can I get a rebuild kit for my 1987 Chevy stock hydraulic roller??? Some of my lifters don’t have any spring to them.
You need the part number for the lifters, may be cheaper to buy a new set
So say I’m building a mid 70’s 454 can I run roller lifters on it even though it doesn’t have the spider thing?
Sure, as long as the lifters have a tie bar or a dog bone to hold them in place
Good day thanks for the lifters information. I know you did this video three years ago. I’m going through a previously rebuilt 351 Windsor. It has flat tappet lifters. My question is when I prime the engine with oil by turning the oil pump will the lifters get primed.? Will the lifters only get hydraulic pressure after pumping/spinning the crank and cam? If so will they pump up quickly? The reason I’m asking is because the lifters are completely flat therefore there’s no pressure on them to lift the rockers. I think you know what I’m getting at. Thank you
Yes they will. They will pump up quickly when the engine is started. Do it be hand and it will make the startup easier
If I disassemble a lifters, will it fix when they get hard to push?
Maybe
Hi Pete, you must have noticed some lifters have different oil metering plate. They have no holes and the pushrod cup bottom does not have the passage guiding the oil to the middle hole.
You should do a part 2 video where you show this. Because those lifters are worse quality and i bet have problems oiling the top as they will only pass oil on "leak" phase of the lifter. And some Compcams lifters wont even do that. People should be warned and showed different brand lifters and their innards so they can choose working one. Im trying to do video about it myself soon.
Great suggestion, I'll do that
I GOT A PROBLEM I NEVER SEEN BEFORE , I PUT A SET OF HYD ROLLER LIFTERS IN MY MOTOR AND I NOTICE SOME PUSHRODS ARE SHORTER THAN THE OTHERS BUT THEY ARE NOT !!! I ADJUSTED THE ONES THAT WASN'T COLLAPES BUT THE OTHERS WHERE TO SHORT TO ADJUST, SO TURN THE OIL PUMP WITH A DRILLL TO 60 LBS AND THEY PUMPED UP SO I KEEP THE DRILL RUNNING AND ADJUSTED THEM BUT WHEN I SHUT THE DRILL OFF AND THE PRESURE WENT DOWN THE PUSH RODS ARE SHORT AGAIN AND THERES PLAY IN THE ROCKER ARM , WHATS MY PROBLEM ???
You have to turn the engine over a few times. If they are bleeding down there may be a problem with them
Hey Pete, I have a 302 that is a roller block but don't have the spider bar or dog bones. With the retro fit lifters do I need to add the spider bar and dog bones or is they already setup. Will I have to change push rods?
You only need one, either a dog bone or a spider, only if you have roller lifters. If you change from roller to solid, or solid to roller, you'll need new push rods
Can you confirm the brand of retro lifters used in this video? (Stamped "c") - Thanks!
Let me check
What's the difference between a roller block and a non-roller block?
I have a 351w C30E-6015-B-6 block number. I want to put a new cam in with roller rockers and lifters. Is there a retrofit type of set up to allow me to use my block?
Roller blocks are blocks that had factory roller cams. They can use factory lifters and hardware. Non roller blocks can still use roller cams but you either need to get a retrofit kit or buy aftermarket roller lifters
And What benefit does the Flat Tappet Lifter has?
They are more available and they are cheaper
how much shorter are the pushrods when going to the taller rollers . .
It really depends on the engine, rockers and lifters
does it matter which way the tiny oil bleed hole in the roller lifter faces?
It will only go one way with the link bar
@@PetesGarage I dont have the link bar, just the dog bones.
can you make a video on whats happens when lifters "tick"?
Good idea
I'm getting ready to convert my 88 f150 302 from flat to roller it's all stock beside headers and intakes what push rods would I need?
You'll have to measure
Which style is more durable, i.e., does one have a longer expected service life than the other?
For a mild street application the roller lifter will last longer. But, I've seen solid hydraulics last 30 years.
That is my application. Thank you!
well said
Thanks David
My question is do you pump them before install lifter or just soak them in the oil
I just coat them. They get pumped up when you pre-lube with the pump
Hi Pete. I recently had my 402 Chevy engine rebuilt, I hope my mechanic performed the cam break in properly. I'm at the point where I need to change its oil for the first time since driving it about 700 miles. Which type of oil do you recommend for a flat tappet cam?
I always use Penn Grade oil with zinc. It's a racing oil that is a bit more expensive, but worth it. The zinc acts as a lubricant for flat tappet cams
Do you have to break in hydralic roller lifters and cams like you do flat tappet cams?
No you do not
So do you not prime new lifters.prior to install?
I've looked all over and couldn't find a good answer.
Some say just coat in oil, and drop in.
Others say to use a vice to compress new lifters, drain them, then prime them by hand...then install.
I just replaced lifters in my 5.4 2v ford....
Majority of rattle is gone...still have 1 slight rattle,
And have hazing at idle.
Nothing changed other than new lifter installs.
No haze prior to replacing lifters.
I do not.After installing I primes the whole system by turning it over and filling up the lifters.
I've never worked on cars but wouldn't putting a spring oil pump in the lifters exacerbate valve float and timing issues?
The hydraulic pressure takes up the lash. They become pretty solid once filled with oil.
So, just dipping the lifters is sufficient? You don't have to "prime" them?
No, They fill up as you prime to oil pump and turn it over
One thing this guy did that no one noticed nor did he talk about.
Which is the most important thing to do.
Did you notice it ?
I'm more strictly a Ford builder but I learned something about the mouse motor which has a small lifter foot and goes flat easier than a Ford.
The common Chevy guys over look this. But this guy didn't. Notice the big Ford sign in his shop.
This guy knows the weakness of the mouse and so do i but I wonder if you know ?
You have a sharp eye my friend
@@PetesGarage I noticed how you carefully honed the lifter bores so Chevy's whimpy lifters will spin.
That's important
Don't forget you may have to change the gear on your distributor when switching from a flat tappet cam to a roller cam.
Could you please explain why?
@@PetesGarage yes some roller cams such as my comp cam require a brass distributor gear.
So it may be more the cam and not necessarily because it's a roller
@@PetesGarage Yes, but I think it's more common for the roller cams to use a different material fo their distributor cam.
@@PetesGarage Roller cams and flat tappet cams use two different metals.
Hey pete, when doing a flat tappet to roller, do you need to change up the push rods? Not sure if the lifter changes heights, I'm looking to convert my 67 289 flat tapet to roller
You probably will
Yes, you will.
@Mr Yuk I know that know, I'm currently waiting on new arp studs to secure my heads
How much chatter does the link bar make? Loud?
None
How about comparing to a solid roller lifter?
Great idea
I can't find anyone to answer my question... Which type of roller lifter is better... link bar or dog bone?
They are both fine, it depends on the engine
Ford 351W non-roller.