Ok, I just watched this video from start to finish. Definitely the most informative video that I’ve seen so far. There’s a ton of energy goes into Making the decision to build a climbing wall and not so much energy going towards what you actually need to build one.
I keep getting comments about that. I probably need to do a video on that at some point. That one is only so complicated because it needed to be strictly a bolt on, thus the puck design. I built it for my local gym which is an old wall with that concrete fiberglass exterior that's really not supposed to be screwed into with wood screws. No I needed a crack frame that could adapt to almost any bolt pattern. Those frames accomplish all those things but if I were to build a frame for my home wall, it'd just be screwed on. It'd be way simpler.
Most T-nuts (budget friendly) used in climbing walls require a 7/16" drill bit. Larger and you will have premature failure. Check with the manufacturer.
Thanks, cool video! What you say about not just screwing the main 2x4's (or 2x6's) into the wall framing is great advice. Another solution that might save people a few inches in cramped areas is to get some joist hangers or framing anchors. to carry the weight into the framing.
Also I wish I had seen your advice on being sure to use a level on the kicker. My floor is not level, and now the top of my wall is not level and it's causing some extra work to manage adding a a roof section.
This is what I was planning to do 4 x 4 inch screws into 2x6s space 16 inches apart, I've seen a few how tos where people do this, and seems like it would hold up ok
For the fall zone, is there an affordable and safe alternative to laying out multiple crashpads? My wall will be indoors (garage) so have space to store away right next to it. Thanks for the help!
My main pad is a full size futon matress from my bachelor days, and I've sleeved it in a waterproof protector. It's not as stiff as I'd like, but it's a solid budget option. My goal is to get two of them, which will cover enough of an area to keep everything pretty safe, and then dump my actual bouldering pad on top to protect from a specific fall.
I talk about a little in the video but 2x6s are overall better. However, I had enough existing structure to tie into that I didn't need them. For something like a free standing board, or a bigger wall, I'd of wanted some.
What are your thoughts on tying solely into the wall (not into the ceiling)? I have some tall walls in my garage, but don't have long enough boards (or a tall enough ladder) to drill into the ceiling joists. I was thinking of connecting a board (2x8) sideways across the wall studs and attaching "arms" between my leaning wall and this board, attaching them to the wall via stud hangers. Do you think it'd be too much sideways force on the wall? I probably won't lean too far (maybe 15 degrees). I plan on doing a footer like you have to handle the downward force. Any insight/suggestions you have would be great.
It sounds doable. The home wall group on Facebook is really good about looking at these designs and giving you feedback but I don't think you have to tie into the ceiling as long as it's properly braced.
Have you had any issues with the cheaper ply and screws? I have some of the same ply but I will be relying 100% on screw-on holds and Im scared I will pull the screws through a void in the plywood
Ok, I just watched this video from start to finish. Definitely the most informative video that I’ve seen so far. There’s a ton of energy goes into Making the decision to build a climbing wall and not so much energy going towards what you actually need to build one.
The finger/handjam looking volume you have on there looks really cool! Interesting design for bolting to the wall.
I keep getting comments about that. I probably need to do a video on that at some point. That one is only so complicated because it needed to be strictly a bolt on, thus the puck design. I built it for my local gym which is an old wall with that concrete fiberglass exterior that's really not supposed to be screwed into with wood screws. No I needed a crack frame that could adapt to almost any bolt pattern. Those frames accomplish all those things but if I were to build a frame for my home wall, it'd just be screwed on. It'd be way simpler.
Most T-nuts (budget friendly) used in climbing walls require a 7/16" drill bit. Larger and you will have premature failure. Check with the manufacturer.
Thanks for the shout out!
38*, weight bearing on bottom, straight into studs, into joists up top
This will come in handy these days.
Thanks, cool video! What you say about not just screwing the main 2x4's (or 2x6's) into the wall framing is great advice. Another solution that might save people a few inches in cramped areas is to get some joist hangers or framing anchors. to carry the weight into the framing.
Also I wish I had seen your advice on being sure to use a level on the kicker. My floor is not level, and now the top of my wall is not level and it's causing some extra work to manage adding a a roof section.
I'm sorry I just saw this. Yeah, my floor is out too and getting that kicker level was clutch. Made the rest of it pretty simple.
This is what I was planning to do 4 x 4 inch screws into 2x6s space 16 inches apart, I've seen a few how tos where people do this, and seems like it would hold up ok
This is a great help, thank you
For the fall zone, is there an affordable and safe alternative to laying out multiple crashpads? My wall will be indoors (garage) so have space to store away right next to it. Thanks for the help!
My main pad is a full size futon matress from my bachelor days, and I've sleeved it in a waterproof protector. It's not as stiff as I'd like, but it's a solid budget option. My goal is to get two of them, which will cover enough of an area to keep everything pretty safe, and then dump my actual bouldering pad on top to protect from a specific fall.
Very useful. You mentioned using 2x4's a lot but the consensus seems to be to use 2x6's, do you notice a difference?
I talk about a little in the video but 2x6s are overall better. However, I had enough existing structure to tie into that I didn't need them. For something like a free standing board, or a bigger wall, I'd of wanted some.
What are your thoughts on tying solely into the wall (not into the ceiling)? I have some tall walls in my garage, but don't have long enough boards (or a tall enough ladder) to drill into the ceiling joists. I was thinking of connecting a board (2x8) sideways across the wall studs and attaching "arms" between my leaning wall and this board, attaching them to the wall via stud hangers. Do you think it'd be too much sideways force on the wall? I probably won't lean too far (maybe 15 degrees). I plan on doing a footer like you have to handle the downward force. Any insight/suggestions you have would be great.
It sounds doable. The home wall group on Facebook is really good about looking at these designs and giving you feedback but I don't think you have to tie into the ceiling as long as it's properly braced.
@@AuxArcClimbing Thanks - I'll take a look at that group. Nice wall by the way (meant to say that in my first comment)! :)
Have you had any issues with the cheaper ply and screws? I have some of the same ply but I will be relying 100% on screw-on holds and Im scared I will pull the screws through a void in the plywood
Use multiple screws but even then, I think you'll be ok.
ke looko