Can we sort what others couldn't?
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2024
- Day in the life of a plumber
In todays video I try to sort a heating system that it turned out hadn't worked in a while, do we get to the bottom of the problem, it will be interesting to see what you think. Also I change on old Grundfos pump and have to rely on some old gate valves
As always, thanks so much for watching, all the support is so greatly appreciated
#plumber #plumbing #apprentice #dayinthelife #howto #boiler
Tom I really do love the raw honest nature of your work and how you are. Non of this squeaky clean poser types that are 10 a penny of RUclips. I am a plumber/lead engineer and your vids are top drawer. Well done boyo living your work.
Thanks for the support Barry, I'm so pleased you enjoy my videos, I try to make them as real as possible, and just try to be myself
I'm not a plumber. RUclips decided I needed to watch this. I love the diagnostic videos (cars, heating, electronics) and your right up there with the best of them. I hate the videos that are more fluff and CGI than actual content. Thanks!
Thanks for watching mate, I'm so pleased you enjoyed the video
I agree I don’t like the fluffy smoking mirrors… my videos I show all diagnostic on big boilers..
Me too, great video bro
Hi Tom in the old days on cargo/ cruise ships we used to have what they called a valve spanner in the engine room you put it on the valve wheel which gave you that bit extra leverage to shut the valves. Also the valve that was weeping slightly we used to repack the glands . This is all old school stuff take care enjoyed video.
Thanks for the support mate, I probably should have tried to repack the gland, I find they can seal themselves up if it's just weeping a tiny. I didn't want to play with it too much though in case I made it worse
Done that trick with the spanner before but its hell on the disc and seat especially if its teflon
Fault finding gets the old grey matter working. Good job!
Thanks for the support Bill
I don't know English well, but I'm a plumber.
Ну это не большая проблема, довольно решаема)
Hi Tom, I would agree with you that it’s been piped up wrong. That NRV has been fitted because of it gravitating in the summer when the heating is off but hot water still on demand. Could just remove it completely and fit a 2 inch ball lever valve. When summer comes, turn off the heating pumps and isolate the valve to stop it circulating on its own accord 👍🏽
That would be an option, it would require someone to turn the valve back though, I'm thinking to just fit a swing style check valve and see what happens, hopefully it should work, thanks for watching
I like "technical tap." In my biz (water treatment and distribution), we call it "percussive maintenance." 😂
You know the one, sometimes these things just need a bit of light persuasion, thanks for watching mate
Looking forward to seeing the repair on that heating system
I will certainly post a part two when I get back there, thanks for watching
I would suggest look for pressure gauges and motorised valve's are working.
Check for bypass locksheilds. Check pumps are running.
Commercial systems have self top up systems check to make sure they work.
If its worked before it should work again. Theres s lot more to look at on Commercial system's
Twin pumps etc. Biggest problem is lack of maintenance.
Im retired now but loved sorting Commercial systems.
Thanks for the support mate, I think the issue is with the check valve restricting the flow, someone has added it to the system as they have piped up the return slightly wrong when fitting the new boilers, I would say the rads were heating up in the summer so they just fitted it to stop that, but come winter nothing worked
@@PlumbLikeTom Another check you can make on the pumps is to put an Amprobe current measurement device on the electrical wires providing electrical power to the pump(s). If the amps are near the pump's full load rating (70-80-90%) then the pump is properly moving water, if the amps drawn are really low(10-25% of pumps full load rating) then regardless of how the pumps sound you are probably vapor locked. A centrifugal pump that cavitates or is vapor locked is not doing "work" so the amp draw tends to be lower. Good Luck from the oil fields!
get yourself a socket extension and put one end on the part you want to listen to and the other end on your temple and then you should be able to hear water flow or any mechanical parts moving within the pumps and pipes.
Good tip that, thanks for the support mate
I like how you do a technical tap
It's like a TV in the 70's when it needed a little tap and the signal resumed 😂
Thanks for the support as always mate, I used to have an old black and white telly in my room growing up in the 90s, you used to have to whack the top of that to get it going again
@@PlumbLikeTom haha 😄 the good ol days tee
Enjoyed that Mate, retired electrical engineer but often asked to sort out heating not working!On one job, all seemed spot on, boiler is firing, valves are open, pump is running but system is cold downstairs and yet I could hear the pump spinning. Took the pump head off to find all the internal waterways in the pump impellor blocked solid! Pump was running, but it wan't pumping! Wouldnt happen on those commercial pumps with impellors that size, but it caught me out for a minute or two! Noticed that the check valve screw is across the flow, but don't know the internals, so I will look for the sequel! once went to the local secondary school swim pool pump room to find the access door rotten and hinges rusted shut, with water brimming over the door lip!! Not my most enjoyable days work, but we fixed it!
Well done!
Phil
Thanks for the support Phil, I will make sure to post a part two when I get back to the job
My parents had a similar issue with their heating system (installed in 1998 I think) a few years ago. Took the pump head off and there was no impeller left, completely crumbled. Wilo pump. I think two out of three pumps were completely buggered. Thankfully we got second-hand pumps because we'd already pretty much decided on replacing the whole system in the near future, it was horribly inefficient (a small semi-detached single-storey house that was only heated a few weeks a year consumed as much gas as a city flat 1 1/2 times the size that was lived in full time, gas heating, hot water and cooking, five people living there).
Slight different scenario but I’ve been snookered by return mesh filters on older boilers, all the pipes get hot should be happy days but it’s not got the flow through it. Top video Tom
It could well be something very similar here, the check valve will restrict the flow significantly on this install, thanks for watching 👍
“I think it’s a welly job” got me 🤣🤣 brilliant selection of jobs mate fair enjoy the vids 👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the support mate, I'm so pleased you enjoyed the video
The boiler hero is here!!!
Thanks for watching mate, glad you are here
@@PlumbLikeTom no problem.. I’m the boiler hero im everywhere listening for boiler cry’s… like super man
Nice to see a proper job for once well done, far more interesting than the shiney pipe 15mm press fit brigade, they're more concerned with van racking and how many batteries they've got from what I can tell,👍
Thanks for watching Michael, I'm so pleased you enjoy the content
Agree there. I’m a spark by trade and the amount on here posting easy jobs or new (sponsored) tools or websites for work planning/ tax etc and van racking etc..
it’s nice to see real no nonsense work going on.
I was thinking that double check valve was odd as you was saying it. Im lost on these commercial videos but its great to see how it all works. Great video mate
Thanks for the support mate, I'm pretty sure that's where the issue lies, I should have figured it out sooner but sometimes you miss the obvious
A lot of plumbers etc call themselves engineers, you Tom are a true engineer. Nice vid you vary the content brilliantly.
Thanks for the support as always Charles, I do my best to try and vary the videos, hopefully it keeps them interesting
World class again Tom, very interesting jobs on this one. Thanks for the explanation and effort you go to. 👏👏
Thanks for the support as always Andy, it is greatly appreciated
Old school is best content.👍
Thanks for watching mate, glad you enjoyed the video
im an hvac technician gas fitter and hydronics have always been a puzzle for me.. cool videos man!
Thanks for watching mate
Real world plumbing mate keep doing you you’re doing. You’re definitely better than 99% of the heating engineers in the uk so I wouldn’t worry 🤣 👊
Thanks for the support Joe, it is greatly appreciated, have a great weekend
We had a fantastic one years ago , backup generator would run for testing but if it ran for a power failure it ran for 5 Minutes then stopped, I got called in after several years of problems, I just started the generator ran it until it stopped and told the manager to open the door, he couldn't open the door , the generator room had no ventilation so it stalled when it ran out of air pulling the pressure in the room down , when testing the door was open , the building was 30 years old bad been built like that, I assume the door had been changed for an unvented door but even so it a bit gormless
Are there any one way valves as they are a menace
Hi Tom, a nice selection of industrial jobs this time Tom, I think I would be suspecting that check valve, I think it is the main culprit.
I hope the valve continued to hold, I know what a pain they can be. A fantastic film again this time Tom thank you. Have a great week and as always, take care. 👍👍👍
Thanks for the support as always Chris, I am pretty sure the check valve is the issue, I'm hoping that old gate valve sealed up, I haven't been back to check
Some testing jobs there Tom, and interesting to see how you get over things, that weeping old pump valve, what a pain. Take care and keep them coming. 👍🚽
Thanks for the support as always Peter, I'm hoping it sealed itself up, it won't matter to much though in the boiler room
I think your right about the domestic return in summer getting back flow hence putting in a nrv which one fitted is a spring loaded one get a flap one fitted should do the job..
I think that's must have been what was happening, the pipework looked newer on the section so someone has likely fitted that last summer but this has now stopped the rads working all together, thanks for watching
Great content Tom , really enjoyed that .
Thanks for the support as always Chris 👍
At my work place it was a section valve with some kind of connection between forward and return, that cut off an entire section of the building.
It's surprising what people do, thanks for watching 👍
No idea why you don’t have more subs one of the best on YT
Thanks for the support as always Darren, I'm sure subscribers will come with time, the style of my videos isn't for everyone but I enjoy making them, I can only ever do my best and I'm so happy to have gained of 7 thousand subscribers
I do a similar array of jobs like you , so I really appreciate the content
My first thought tom was that there was a by-pass fitted somewhere on the system and somebody had opened the valve up and it water was just circulating round that and not the radiators.
It could be that someone has taken a rad off and linked the pipes across, I'm still not a hundred percent sure to be honest but the check valve was certainly wrong, hopefully we will get to the bottom of the issue, thanks for watching as always mate 👍
Yet another great video love the term technical tap keep up the good work as always a good range of jobs and not afraid to get your hands dirty😊😊
Thanks for the support as always Mick
Great video, I've had the Impeller stuck in a commercial pump before, always worrying if the water is completely off.
There's always that moment of uncertainty on those jobs, thanks for the support mate, it is greatly appreciated 👍
Enjoyed the vid thanks
Thanks for watching mate, glad you enjoyed
Excellent content Tom. Very interesting to watch - hope you get that sorted out - I reckon your on the money with your hunch though 👍🏻
Thanks for the support Chris, I have quoted to do the remedial works but I'm still waiting to hear back from them, hopefully get the job as it will be interesting to see if I was right
When you undid all those four Alan bolts B4 checking if the isolating valves had held I thought we were going to have wet suit job and not just welly’s 😂😂😂
Thanks for the support as always Colin, I like a bit of water about, it lets the customer know I've been
What was it you said once 'if you're not paddling you're not plumbing" 😅😅
Something like that.
Awesome work 👏
I do like a bit of water about, thanks for watching as always mate 👍
Rip that double check out Tom and fit a swing check, I reckon that will cure it
I'm pretty sure you are right mate, thanks for the support as always
Hi tom redone a boiler house years ago had the same problem with the heat creep in summer time fitted proper check valve for heating problem solved good luck
Thanks for the support Andrew, I reckon that's what was happening here, someone has put that double check in to stop that but has accidentally stopped it all from working
Thanks Tom
Thanks for the support as always Keith
The commercial is a bit of a puzzler. My thoughts for what it is worth:
1. How many KW is the boiler producing? You were getting a DT across flow and return so that suggests there is some heat transfer taking place. The missing part of the mass flow equation is the flow, do you not have access to an ultrasonic flow meter?
2. The suspicious check valve might be the culprit - but it is not the only thing going on.
3. The air (or gas in the system) is a big issue too - it is entirely possible for the pumps to draw in air past leaking glands. Anyhoo the air/gas is a major issue
4. Gate valves - ‘me no likely’ - just because the spindle turns it does not mean the valve has actually opened.
On the job where you were replacing the rather large pump head - it looked as though the leaking valve had one nut missing from the gland follower and the other nut was not in contact with the land follower.
Great stuff Tom looking forward to part 2.
Thanks for the support as always mate, I'm sure the check valve is most of the problem, I am concerned there is a flow and return linked somewhere though, possibly where an old rad has been removed, I have quoted to replace the check valve but they haven't got back to me yet
I'd remove the check valve as well, swing check would of been more suitable.
The magnetic filter also you can pull the magnets out on them by undoing that black plastic knob then pulling firmly up.
'Technical tap' saving that one 😄
Thanks for the support mate, I didn't realise the magnets were removable on them, it would have made my life a bit easier, I have qouted for a swing check valve, I'm still waiting to hear back though
@@PlumbLikeTom i don't ever trust non return valves for this application. you can't see if they're working or not. i fit a 2 port motorised valve driven open with the pump on signal.
Interesting video Tom. I think my money would be on that non return valve too, be Interesting to see what you find. 👍😎
That's what I was thinking,,I have quoted for a repair but they haven't got back yet, we might never find out, thanks for watching as always PB
Is this PB who has 50k subscribers on YT?
That’s my league, I like that Tom doesn’t surprise you those gate valves are made to last , comparing the new ones, they always comes up under different brands .. obviously the best ones are the cranes 😅 if people can afford them ..
Cranes used to spec on all council owned sites around me when I first started, now it's just whatever is the cheapest, it doesn't make sense in the long run as it ends up costing more, thanks for the support as always mate
Very good video mate
Thanks for the support Tom, glad you enjoyed the video
It's so frustrating getting straight answers from people. They act like it's hard to say yes I've been cold since the last time it was worked on. Problem solved. Maybe it was one of the workers friends that worked on it before and they don't want to throw them under the bus.
It could well have been, like you say you never seem to get a straight answer, thanks for watching
I bet you the flow is bypassing somewhere to the return, instead of going around the radiators
It could be, I couldn't see where but I did wonder if a previous plumber had removed a rad and linked the pipes, thanks for watching
Do the pumps not stop spinning because there is no flow? Like it would get seized? Or the system would very quickly overheat? Or is it exactly doing that and then stopping the pump? Like what u said about the pumps would make sense. The first rad flow and return switched? Or whole system flow and return switched? Check valve also if it lets through a little.
I think the check valve is the issue, we checked all the rads to make sure they were all open, thanks for watching mate
I’ve had 2” pipe blocked on a child water system in a hotel they had two different companies out spent thousands they couldn’t get going I was asked to take a look I spent a day tracing the flow and return flow was freezing but the return was just cold
They ask me to put all the lagging back on turn the flow valves around the right way and refit actuator heads back on as they all had been removed
I ask the maintenance manager for some history on the system and he said it hasn’t worked since the refurbishments that gave a idea what might of happened all the crap in the pipes dried out and when they refilled the system it all lifted up and got stuck somewhere
I took every valve off to check gates where working checked strainers could not find blockage so i changed the main flow and return valve to level valves so I could open and shut them quickly so I could shock the water backwards and forwards I could get the return to freezing with the flow valve off so I definitely had a blockage so I got a massive drum went to the end of the pipe work opened it up put some big hoses on then opened the valves on at time and all the shit came out connected the pipes back up and the system all working fine
Just goes to show you 2” pipe can get blocked if you find out the story of the system
That's really interesting to know, a similar thing could have happened to this system, I did wonder if someone had snapped a gate valve off but they seemed to all move Ok, I could potentially have a blockage somewhere. I have quoted to replace the check valve on this one with a swing or flap style. Hopefully that sorts it, thanks for the support 👍
@@PlumbLikeTom Tom if you are going to drain it down that system it might be worth checking those valves are working as it definitely seems like a blockage of some sort
Good luck
Microfil pressurisation unit showing frequent use indicates it's topping up more than it's programmed to which indicates a system leak
I think the pipes underground to an old building were probably leaking, I did valve that section off as it was unused, everywhere else was on drops and in suspended ceilings so would have shown, thanks for watching
Urinal woes, had issues with a schools urinals, turns out there was no gasket between the waste and the porcelain (bodged in with silicone) so urine was seeping out and down the trap - it stank! Also discovered one of the little cherubs was loosening off one of the compression nuts on the trap...lol...you never know what you're gonna find!
That sounds about right, I hate urinals to be honest, they always seem to block, smell or leak, thanks for watching as always 👍
Top guy 🎉
Thanks for the support Brain
Great video Tom, with interesting range of jobs.
With O rings, do you generally apply silicone grease or not bother? (I tend to but I’m not sure it’s actually required.)
Thanks for the support as always Steve, It wouldn't be a bad idea to grease to o-rings, it certainly wouldn't do any harm
Nice one Tom can we still get these pump heads and Where
From please
I ordered this from BSS, it was a special though and took 7 weeks, thanks for watching
Guessing mid-watch, they must have had the extra check valve closed and accidentally turned on the pump that pinned the plastic valve closed.
The check valve was the issue, I have quoted to replace it with one suitable for heating, thanks for watching
Used to work with a sprinkler pipe fitter guy if they had a weep on a fitting they would urinate on a rag wrap it round and it would seal the leak ! Not sure if it works on brass though tom
I haven't heard that one, sometimes small leaks on them packing glands do seal up, there is a fibre washer in there that swells a bit, thanks for watching 👍
He was just pissing about.
Some nice watching there Tom they left the system full of air and that oversized check valve looks good for probably going wrong probably not fully open , Plenty of scrap in that boiler room cast-iron bringing much money these days😂👍👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🛠💦
The old pump heads are sometimes worth weighing in, you don't get a lot for them but if you are going anyway it's worth it, I left them there though as they belong to the customer, thanks for the support as always Tom 👍
@@PlumbLikeTom might be able to get them in 20 years time when you go back 👍👍👍🇬🇧
Hi tom.. do you kniw gor commercial heating systems with the auto filling system. I was told there never need inhibitors because once its been running and really hot the oxygen inside the system disappears which then meabs no corrosion??? Is this right??
The cold fill pressure on that mikrofill seems pretty low? if its in the basement and the building is quite high, you might wanna up the cold fill pressure on it to about 1.5 bar or so depending on the static height. You can get the manual online and its pretty easy to change. Good video! fault finding is great fun aint it?! 😂. Those gate valves can be a right pain in the arse
This was only a two story building, it used to be tank fed so would have had lower pressure, I think the issue is with the check valve, gate valves are a real pain a times, thanks for watching
If someone gave me a pound for every time you said “ everything has changed since I was last here” and “ fan pumps were here” I’d have enough money to go to the pub lol 😂
I do need to try a cut the waffle out of my videos, thanks for watching though, it is appreciated
If you want to know whether a pump is actually pumping out to the system try shutting the valve slightly and if its moving water then it should start to struggle as you do this, if not then it could be the non return valve or it could be the impellor has failed. Really you could do with some balancing valves on the system or get an ultrasonic flow meter to see if/how much water is moving.
Thanks for the support Andrew, I really apprecaite you taking the time comment, thanks for watching
I think all Building should Have a Pipe Flow & Pipe Directions ZONES circuit MAP + All Valves with Correct Labeled Tags (Even mark Air block zones)
On a Copy of the buildings Blueprints (kept updated ) an kept in a Poster Tube in the Boiler Room a Above the door - by Law
I agree, with gas pipes we have to mark the runs and valve locations, it should be the same for heating and water pipes, thanks for watching
Looks like newer pumps, proper gpm or rotation? Boiler loop enough psi?
You could be right, I think the issue is the check valve but we will have to wait and see if I get back there to sort it, I have quoted the job but I am still waiting, thanks for watching
bleed the higherst radiator, how many bars do you ahve in the system, hopw high is the building? is the brass backflow valve open?
It was only a two story building, I think the check valve was seriously restricting the flow, I have priced to put a proper one in but I'm still waiting to get back, thanks for watching
nice vid Tom. Is there bypass somewhere?
I couldn't see one, my only thinking is has someone removed a rad and linked the flow and returns together, the check valve isn't helping but really the return should have been colder, the system did used to work but someone has had a play, thanks for watching
Was that pressurisation unit @2.25 for the heating ? 1.0 bar is a bit low if it is.
It probably is a bit low, it is only a two story building though, there will likely be more pressure on it now than when it was tank fed, thanks for watching
the check valve screw is indicating its closed it should be inline with the flow
I did think that but when I loosened it, water started leaking out, I think it's just the wrong valve for heating and is likely melted inside restricting the flow, thanks for watching
the pumps have a dpf which regulates the pump flow across the flow and return, im pretty sure the check valve on the flow needs to be there to prevent suction back through the system although this isnt really possible its usually standard on commercial systems the dpf for the pump was on the backside the idiots installed it facing the wall, usually on commercial i believe the setup is as follows NRV - STR - pump and this will be mirrored on both flow and return, also i can only assume theres a dead leg somewhere in the system where its loosing heat, as you said there was a existing system all it takes is one wrong thing and the whole systems basically worthless - theres also a union at high level which could make the valve easier to take out all it take is 2 pairs of 18" stilsons
interesting, the diffference between flow and return is small like a short circuit . If the check valve has restricted the flow greatly surely the only path of return is through the rads thus a big loss in heat in the return with restricted flow , is there a bypass somewhere not visible?
That is the one thing that was bugging me, I did wonder if a rad had been removed but just linked through acting like a by pass, the plumbing wasn't the best so anything is possible, thanks for watching
I did that job for 40 years glad I am retired
I do enjoy the job but do hope to reach retirement one day, I've only got another 39 years to go, thanks for watching
You were lucky the capacitor hadn't failed, nice video though :)
Correct me if I’m wrong but that check valve looks isolated to me? Shouldn’t it be opened in-line with pipe for flow?
That screw is just a drain point on the valve, it's really designed for cold water systems so in the winter you can drain down to prevent freezing, standard 15mm double check valves have a nut in the middle which is for the same purpose, thanks for watching 👍
🤘😎🤘
Thanks for the support as always Wayne 👍
I don't know much about heating but how can the return be hot if the flow is restricted? Might be restricted to the rads but surely if there's not some kind of bypass or pressure relief back to the return before the NRV then the problem is further down the line?
I do wonder if someone has removed a rad a linked the flow and returns together, this would by pass the system, the problem is most of the pipes are now hidden, I have quoted to remove the check valve and then have another look, thanks for watching
@@PlumbLikeTom Maybe! I guess if you turn all the rads off and you've still got flow you know it's linked somewhere? Hope you get to the bottom of it!
Just watching the start of the program at 4 minutes in and I would say you have an almost total restriction in the return , not a total block but 95 percent probably rubbish in a pipe and a hydrogen air lock from corrosion , I would see if the main flow lines in the boiler room will flow to be honest , it could easily be a poor pipe routing if it started after modification
Thanks for the support mate, you were pretty close in you're diagnosis, I think the check valve on the main heating flow is massively restricting the pipework , I have quoted to fit a proper one for a heating system in there
Seams like it is bypassing the heating and coming back to the boiler room. Maybe it is a one pipe system .who knows
Love jobs like that and looks like a airlock and maybe there is a bypass one one of the circuits or otherwise it would not be so warm on the returns .it needs some auto air vents on for a start
I did wonder if a previous plumber had removed a rad and linked the pipes, thanks for watching
Please buy yourself an ultrasonic flow meter (clamp-on) so that you will know if there is a flow inside the pipes.
that looks like a double check valve to me, not designed for heating, you'll be lucky if that has a 1" clear bore round the spring loaded ball. As others have said possible bypass on other side of wall, possible rad removed and pipes joined up. Looking forward to seeing part 2, dont doubt for a minute u wont find the problem
Thanks for the support as always Scot, I'm pretty sure the check valve is the issue, the return being hot was confusing however and does need further investigation, I have quoted to sort it out but I haven't heard anything back yet, it might be they get someone else although I would like to see it through now
✊🇬🇧👍👍
Thanks for watching John
It is not a "tap" it is "percussive maintainance".
That's the one, thanks for watching mate 👍
On that first job they wouldnt of done something stupid like plum a return in before the radiators would they? would explain why the return is hot and the rest is only getting semi warm.
I did think it was possible they have removed a rad or fan convector and linked the pipes through, it would acted as a big by pass for the system, thanks for watching mate
I dont think the pumps are man enough to circulate the full system. I think the return is hot because its going through one rad and back again. Get a pressure guage on the furthest or highest rad and see what you get. Kick the boilers off and leave the pumps running.
Tom has that valve got a screw in the middle ? If so it's a verifiable double check . If it's a double check it's no surprise you have no flow . The fact that the return is hot suggests a bypass close to the boiler room also you know the pipework has been altered so could be the case .
Thanks for the support as always mate, I'm sure that one is a double check, I thought the screw in the middle of them was a drain point, I think there might be an issue with the pipework in the building but I need to get that valve sorted first and then we will see what happens
From what I remember there are verifiable and non verifiable for category 3 fluids . I did my water regs 15 years ago so might have forgotten something 😂😂
@@dennisphoenix1 I can never remember what the difference is to be honest, I have been asked in the past what the screw or plug is for in the middle of them and I was always told it was so you can drain the water out of them, I could be wrong though
Don't think that check valve is designed for use on heating , looks more like one for mains water , unvented etc. Normally check valves on heating are of the swing type which basically has a hinged flap inside. You touched on unwanted gravity circulation , you used to be able to get a valve called a "dumball" gravity check valve which looked similar to that check valve. Maybe they thought that valve would do the same job.
I think your right, like you say heating check valves normally have a flap, this one will likely be restricting the flow if it's not melted shut completely, thanks for watching Paul
Pull the magnets out 😆
Fair point, my head was thinking about other things at the time, thanks for watching
Best of luck Tom lack of maintenance Tom over the years
Thanks for the support as always Glyn, nothing lasts forever, you need to keep spending on these big buildings
Is the pumps rotation correct?
It appeared to be, I think the check valve is really restricting the flow, thanks for watching 👍
Shouldn't the check valves middle pin should be in line with the pipes, it's partially closed ?
I think that was a drain point on this valve, I did try turning it inline but water started pouring out, it's really the wrong valve any way for this application, thanks for watching
Tbh never seen valve like that myself installed that way, prolly good idea as you said just to remove it.
@@PlumbLikeTom
Keep up the good work, you got alot of skills and i like how you kind of show the raw and honest side of the trade. Plumbers work is quite hard trade and requires alot of knowledge. Like your vids alot.
Do you work directly/sub for an existing company, or is it your business Tom?
I work for my families construction company, my job is to look after the plumbing side although I struggle to look after myself somedays, thanks for watching 👍
Tom that's a double check valve should be if any a single check !!
I think it's likely the problem, I should have sussed it sooner but I doubt it's ever worked properly with that valve in, thanks for watching John 👍
Your always interesting would love to know the outcome Tom.
Punp could be not pushing through the check valve but then i guess it would over heat it that was the case
Check valve installed backwards??
It was the correct way but I think it's melted inside, it's not designed for heating and is restricting the flow, I have priced to replace it with a suitable one, thanks for watching
Is their a part two to issue that can't be solved
I have quoted the job and are waiting to go back, I will post it though when I do it, thanks for watching
Loving your wotk
Thanks for watching mate
Don't the pump have a bleeding facility?
Most A rated ones don't now, you can put them in an air purge mode which cycles the pump, thanks for watching
that small drip was bothering you :) you kept wiping it in the hope it would stop
I think we have all done it, hoping drying it up will make it stop leaking, thanks for the support as always mate
The check valve installed is wrong type too much restriction its a double meant for mcw not heating. the bore is probably half the pipe size. Just need a single swing check
That's what I was thinking of fitting, I have quoted the job, it won't be that bad to do but they haven't got back to me yet, thanks for the support mate
@@PlumbLikeTom 43 yrs doing that work I learnt something
Hi Tom, would be great if you could show the process mermaid boarding a shower 🙏
I will do my best to film the next one I do, thanks for watching
Might be a bypass open .
There could well be, my money is on a rad that has been linked through, thanks for watching 👍
Flapper swing valve??
im not sure if i was customer and didnt know u id trust u if the first thing i saw when u opened the van doors was a pair of welly boots 😲
To be fair they have to be quick to get to as most of my jobs turn into a welly job, I probably should carry some for the customers as well
13:50 Well, I can see one problem...
The Idiot that last worked on this system forgot to put in Rust Inhibitor...
It's possible that the rads and smaller pipes are clogged with rust...
You could be right, thanks for watching mate