Hi. Dave great video you made a comment about the kashima shocks the team drivers are not Required to use them there optional I no some team drivers I’m out here in California (San Diego area) I no the team manager also Bret T. He was running them on his 2wd and 4wd buggy he took them off the only thing there using is the chrome shafts most of the team guys are running the kit shocks I believe they found out the kashima shocks were inconsistent not smooth so yeah there optional for them to run or not I just wanted to clear that up for you . Okay Dave great video car looks fantastic to 👍😁
I'm curious was it worth fully upgrading the shocks? They look great! I'm building shocks now. If you could order the upgrades in order of importance? Like 1 being machined internals 2 shafts and so on. Thanks really enjoy your videos
Most important is how the shocks are built. Make sure you have fresh xrings in them! This part needs maintenance and starts to make your shock feel worse even after a few weeks. A full set of new xrings will make your car feel like it did out of the box, buttery smooth. Use Green slime when building them to extend the life and rebuild frequently. Even if your car sat on the shelf the xrings are swelling in the oil. Bleed your shocks and get good at having zero movement in our out (dead shock) after you bleed them. These steps are on par with running the correct tire in my book and don't involve any aftermarket parts. Machined plastics would be next on the list including the internals and pistons. I've really had good luck with VRP game changer pistons! Chrome shafts and then coated shock bodies would be last. Use chrome polish on the stock shafts and test how much they stick between rebuilds.
@@DaveDriggs thanks for your great response! I just got the new xrings, machined plastics and slime. Going to build them now. Going to wait on the shafts for now. I'm going to be taking even better care of the shocks now. Thanks again and take it easy
I went ahead and bought the jconcepts o ring kit and am overly satisfied I have 3 rebuilds and at least 10 fluid changes on the ser and they are still perfect the associated shock o rings always seem to tear with shock maintenance where as the jconcepts are a softer rubber and come pre lubricated
I noticed the same. After 3 rebuilds the AE bottom seals on mine show tears. Def. going to replace with the jconcepts seals next rebuild. How long are you going on your x-rings? Mine seem to only last a few months before they are really too swollen to use. When they are new thou... so smooth!
I usually replace my x rings every 4 maintenance ie. Fluid change, piston change and cleaning. That's a must on dirt and on carpet or turf I can usually go 6 of the intervals above. But I never stray from once a month even if I I just race once or twice. I started noticing that when not in use and the car just sitting on the work bench that after several days of sitting the shocks start developing stiction and I I definitely confirmed that testing them with my shock measurement tool they 100 percent all have different rebound results so I started keeping the car on a stand and oddly I didn't have the same issues in identical non use periods. Me personally my shocks are one of the top areas of the car that I work on and tune so when I throw it on the track I immediately notice when something doesn't feel right or I need to use a thicker or thinner fluid depending on how the car pushes in and out of the turns and how it reacts to landings on larger jumps, I I rarely change my preload settings and or springs
I too love the jcon o-ring kit. I use them on every set of shocks. I even still have a set on my t5m from when I first built it probably 4yrs ago. Still in perfect condition. I'll probably swap them out before the outdoor season starts this summer though. I don't do alot of shock maintenance though. Once I have my oil in the ballpark we might change it once a month. Usually only rebuild once a year before the season starts unless they get really leaky. We only race about 4-5 months out of the year thought. Usually may through October...sometimes we go a little later in the year depending on how quickly the cold weather sets in.
I used a hex wrench shaft to build the cartridge, then inserted it into the body all at once. Seemed like it would be really tough to get the top and bottom hat bushings facing correctly since they're so small.
Very good video bro like your video. I m from pakistan before 4 years I have rc Traxxas Slash And Also thunder tiger nitro truck. But now I can't afford 😕 because now doller rate is 50% high and now unable to afford. But I love Rc Cars I Always watch videos because I like
Rears 90.4mm Fronts 79.50mm. BTW: since this video I did swap the 23mm front shock bodies to the 24mm bodies. Gives a little more droop and oil volume. Using the same shock shaft however.
Doesn't seem like they have a set schedule like some others like xray for example. We get smaller upgrades as needed about once a year and major overhauls 2 to 3 years. When the B64 came out AE was really milking their old B44 line, it was so old it had standard screws!
I just built mine and followed the book. My ride height sits at like 15mm rear and 12 front. Something is definitely wrong. The instructions are garbage
Cole, check the shock lengths from the manual with some calipers, that might be your problem. Def sounds like something is not right in the front of the car, going to be hard to drive at 12mm!
@@DaveDriggs yeah it’s pretty much undrivable. I’ve verified everything with the book and everything is correct as far as I can tell. Unless I was given the wrong shock shafts 🤔
These shocks should of come with the kit. If they make “Team” drivers use them, it should come in the “Team” kit
Hi. Dave great video you made a comment about the kashima shocks the team drivers are not Required to use them there optional I no some team drivers I’m out here in California (San Diego area) I no the team manager also Bret T. He was running them on his 2wd and 4wd buggy he took them off the only thing there using is the chrome shafts most of the team guys are running the kit shocks I believe they found out the kashima shocks were inconsistent not smooth so yeah there optional for them to run or not I just wanted to clear that up for you . Okay Dave great video car looks fantastic to 👍😁
I'm curious was it worth fully upgrading the shocks? They look great! I'm building shocks now. If you could order the upgrades in order of importance? Like 1 being machined internals 2 shafts and so on. Thanks really enjoy your videos
Most important is how the shocks are built. Make sure you have fresh xrings in them! This part needs maintenance and starts to make your shock feel worse even after a few weeks. A full set of new xrings will make your car feel like it did out of the box, buttery smooth. Use Green slime when building them to extend the life and rebuild frequently. Even if your car sat on the shelf the xrings are swelling in the oil.
Bleed your shocks and get good at having zero movement in our out (dead shock) after you bleed them. These steps are on par with running the correct tire in my book and don't involve any aftermarket parts.
Machined plastics would be next on the list including the internals and pistons. I've really had good luck with VRP game changer pistons! Chrome shafts and then coated shock bodies would be last. Use chrome polish on the stock shafts and test how much they stick between rebuilds.
@@DaveDriggs thanks for your great response! I just got the new xrings, machined plastics and slime. Going to build them now. Going to wait on the shafts for now. I'm going to be taking even better care of the shocks now. Thanks again and take it easy
I went ahead and bought the jconcepts o ring kit and am overly satisfied I have 3 rebuilds and at least 10 fluid changes on the ser and they are still perfect the associated shock o rings always seem to tear with shock maintenance where as the jconcepts are a softer rubber and come pre lubricated
I noticed the same. After 3 rebuilds the AE bottom seals on mine show tears. Def. going to replace with the jconcepts seals next rebuild. How long are you going on your x-rings? Mine seem to only last a few months before they are really too swollen to use. When they are new thou... so smooth!
I usually replace my x rings every 4 maintenance ie. Fluid change, piston change and cleaning. That's a must on dirt and on carpet or turf I can usually go 6 of the intervals above. But I never stray from once a month even if I I just race once or twice. I started noticing that when not in use and the car just sitting on the work bench that after several days of sitting the shocks start developing stiction and I I definitely confirmed that testing them with my shock measurement tool they 100 percent all have different rebound results so I started keeping the car on a stand and oddly I didn't have the same issues in identical non use periods. Me personally my shocks are one of the top areas of the car that I work on and tune so when I throw it on the track I immediately notice when something doesn't feel right or I need to use a thicker or thinner fluid depending on how the car pushes in and out of the turns and how it reacts to landings on larger jumps, I I rarely change my preload settings and or springs
I too love the jcon o-ring kit. I use them on every set of shocks. I even still have a set on my t5m from when I first built it probably 4yrs ago. Still in perfect condition. I'll probably swap them out before the outdoor season starts this summer though. I don't do alot of shock maintenance though. Once I have my oil in the ballpark we might change it once a month. Usually only rebuild once a year before the season starts unless they get really leaky. We only race about 4-5 months out of the year thought. Usually may through October...sometimes we go a little later in the year depending on how quickly the cold weather sets in.
Great build, have you ever tried building your cartridge pack on the shock shaft while it's in the shock body?
Someone else mentioned that's the way they do it, I'll give it a shot next time I swap out the xrings!
I used a hex wrench shaft to build the cartridge, then inserted it into the body all at once. Seemed like it would be really tough to get the top and bottom hat bushings facing correctly since they're so small.
Do the shocks come with plastic cap's in the kit or aluminium cap's?
Kit are plastic caps
Don't you want rebound on the shocks curious...run mostly dirt
For me it's preferred to have zero rebound and tune the shock with the piston/spring/oil as it's difficult to get a consistent rebound for each shock.
Very good video bro like your video. I m from pakistan before 4 years I have rc Traxxas Slash And Also thunder tiger nitro truck. But now I can't afford 😕 because now doller rate is 50% high and now unable to afford. But I love Rc Cars I Always watch videos because I like
Awesome, thanks for checking out the video! Hope you can keep enjoying the hobby in the future!
what are the size of these shocks eyelet to eyelet?
Rears 90.4mm Fronts 79.50mm. BTW: since this video I did swap the 23mm front shock bodies to the 24mm bodies. Gives a little more droop and oil volume. Using the same shock shaft however.
Hmmmm, have you sold the stock kit shock parts already?
Hi! Thanks for checking out the video. They are going on the old car to make it a b74.05 :).
Really enjoy your videos keep them coming! Quick question you know how often AE releases a new updated 1/10 4wd buggy?
Doesn't seem like they have a set schedule like some others like xray for example. We get smaller upgrades as needed about once a year and major overhauls 2 to 3 years. When the B64 came out AE was really milking their old B44 line, it was so old it had standard screws!
@@DaveDriggs noted thanks for the reply
I just built mine and followed the book. My ride height sits at like 15mm rear and 12 front. Something is definitely wrong. The instructions are garbage
Cole, check the shock lengths from the manual with some calipers, that might be your problem. Def sounds like something is not right in the front of the car, going to be hard to drive at 12mm!
@@DaveDriggs yeah it’s pretty much undrivable. I’ve verified everything with the book and everything is correct as far as I can tell. Unless I was given the wrong shock shafts 🤔
Really getting tired of associated they are getting cheap