I liked the build video, it showed the build with some helpful tips, no inane commentary and no stupid music. This was quite a relief. I probably will not be buying this kit because there aren’t any RC tracks within 200 miles of where I live, so the only vehicles I tend to buy are bashers. It seems to me that using this car as a basher would be a waste, but I sure do like the engineering of it.
Mark, you will not be disappointed, had mine out club racing last night and had excellent results. The car has a massive amount of steering now with the gullwing setup, we've come a long way since the OG b74 days!
I am for sure going to shoot some follow up videos! Been testing some camera setups for the track, hopefully I can get some shots of this thing flying.
Thanks Ryan! You can use the lip they built into the front of the chassis stiffener to route the wires between the two sides. Here is a good post about it if you have Facebook.. facebook.com/groups/613839215466039/permalink/1163739960475959/
They went from a 12mm body to a 13mm body. Personally I think it was a solid improvement on both the 2wd and the 4wd. Back to back from 12 mm to 13 I could drive over bumps faster and the car felt much more planted on a bumpy track. Some drivers were not fans as it limited what springs and pistons could be used. As time passed folks have figured out how to use 12mm springs on the 13mm body (basically flip the collar around at the top and use the old pastic) so it's got more options now. VRP makes 13mm pistons now also which is what I've switched to. AE shocks on this car feel excellent, however I've only driven a few laps with the latest TLR 4wd. If you've liked the TRL more in the past I would bet that's going to feel great now also!
Thanks for the video. Did you have any trouble with the center diff fitting together? I have everything where it should be and lined up but the two ends will not seal
Hey Thomas, I didn't have this issue with mine. AE support should be able to hook you up thou, they are usually good about drop shipping replacement parts.
Thanks! Search for "AMIR Electric Screwdriver Cordless" on amazon. It's simple but I have one for my pit bag and one for the bench, not much $$. I use MIP bits and AE nut drivers for it.
The one I use is a Ride Shock Air Remover (LONG)RI-29101. There are similar products out there like Tamiya TAM54152. Not required but helps quicken the shock building process at the track when you don't want to wait for the bubbles.
Hey mate I'm doing a build with the b74.2d I put the number 2 gearbox in the front following a carpet build. Will this affect any performance? It's my first ever build
hi Jason! Hope you're enjoying the build as much as I did! I haven't set my car up for carpet but I do know this may help you: www.sodialed.com/rc-settings/differential-height Basically you want the least amount of bind with your drive train and it should feel smooth right out the the box. One failure I found on my car was the rear diff pinion gear bearings. Keep a close eye on those once you're rolling, if you're hearing any noise it might be those cap bearings failing from drivetrain flex. This is happening in the front and the rear of the car.
@Dave Driggs cheers for the reply mate I am enjoying the build I ended up swapping the gearbox over to the 0 wasn't to hard to get out but for some reason the pinion was stuck in the gearbox I can't get it out. I'll have a look at the info you shared on the diff heights thanks heaps for reaching out if you know why I can't get the pinion out please let me know. Thanks mate
hi Sonny thanks for watching! So the knife is a MTech USA Spring Assisted Folding Knife and the screwdriver is the AMIR Electric Screwdriver. Both from amazon. The driver is cloned from several companies so you can pretty much pick the one that fits what you're after. I use all MIP bits for my driver and team associated nut drivers for the 7.0 and 5.5mm stuff.
Yes, all the AE 10th scale race kits have plastic shock caps. I have not seen any 13mm aftermarket metal / aluminum replacements for these yet. Guessing JConcepts will have some..
I liked the build video, it showed the build with some helpful tips, no inane commentary and no stupid music. This was quite a relief. I probably will not be buying this kit because there aren’t any RC tracks within 200 miles of where I live, so the only vehicles I tend to buy are bashers. It seems to me that using this car as a basher would be a waste, but I sure do like the engineering of it.
Great vid at an excellent pace. Thanks heaps! Enjoy.
Just got mine yesterday, excited to build it!
Mark, you will not be disappointed, had mine out club racing last night and had excellent results. The car has a massive amount of steering now with the gullwing setup, we've come a long way since the OG b74 days!
Would love to see a hop ups, and a track tuning vid
THAT looks fun😵💫😵💫😵💫
Great video!
Nice video thanks what did you use to seal the gaskets on the diff please
Thanks for checking it out! I used Kyosho diff gear seal grease. kyoshoamerica.com/xgs151.html
❤️
Super cool video! Are you going to do a series like your past videos?
I am for sure going to shoot some follow up videos! Been testing some camera setups for the track, hopefully I can get some shots of this thing flying.
do an upgrades video please!!!!
Great idea Cody, waiting on some parts!
This is my first 4wd race car.
What is the best way to route the servo wires across the center drivetrain?
I loved the gunpla style edit.
Cheers!
Thanks Ryan! You can use the lip they built into the front of the chassis stiffener to route the wires between the two sides. Here is a good post about it if you have Facebook..
facebook.com/groups/613839215466039/permalink/1163739960475959/
@@DaveDriggs thanks dude!
Bro, I know this is an older video, but I've been watching videos like this for ten plus years. This is the best Build video i've ever seen
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it
Are your front axles too short? My wheel nut’s barely thread on
Bummer!! I did not have that problem on mine, they fit pretty good with the short wheel nuts AE is putting in all the kits now.
@@DaveDriggs it must be normal than
Did associates make shock upgrades in this kit, how do they compare to tlr shocks which I always liked more
They went from a 12mm body to a 13mm body. Personally I think it was a solid improvement on both the 2wd and the 4wd. Back to back from 12 mm to 13 I could drive over bumps faster and the car felt much more planted on a bumpy track. Some drivers were not fans as it limited what springs and pistons could be used. As time passed folks have figured out how to use 12mm springs on the 13mm body (basically flip the collar around at the top and use the old pastic) so it's got more options now. VRP makes 13mm pistons now also which is what I've switched to. AE shocks on this car feel excellent, however I've only driven a few laps with the latest TLR 4wd. If you've liked the TRL more in the past I would bet that's going to feel great now also!
@Dave, what motor and gearing are you running?
I'm running the Fantom 13.5 HELIX RS - Works Edition, geared 78x26
What do you guys think about the new plastic ring and pinion gear set? AE 92318. Anyone gonna try it out?
Thanks for the video. Did you have any trouble with the center diff fitting together? I have everything where it should be and lined up but the two ends will not seal
Hey Thomas, I didn't have this issue with mine. AE support should be able to hook you up thou, they are usually good about drop shipping replacement parts.
Nice build 👍🙏…. Where did you get the electric screwdriver ?what brand is it ?
Thanks! Search for "AMIR Electric Screwdriver Cordless" on amazon. It's simple but I have one for my pit bag and one for the bench, not much $$. I use MIP bits and AE nut drivers for it.
Thanks brother 🙏
What is that you use to pump air out of shocks?
The one I use is a Ride Shock Air Remover (LONG)RI-29101. There are similar products out there like Tamiya TAM54152. Not required but helps quicken the shock building process at the track when you don't want to wait for the bubbles.
Hey mate I'm doing a build with the b74.2d I put the number 2 gearbox in the front following a carpet build. Will this affect any performance? It's my first ever build
hi Jason! Hope you're enjoying the build as much as I did! I haven't set my car up for carpet but I do know this may help you: www.sodialed.com/rc-settings/differential-height
Basically you want the least amount of bind with your drive train and it should feel smooth right out the the box. One failure I found on my car was the rear diff pinion gear bearings. Keep a close eye on those once you're rolling, if you're hearing any noise it might be those cap bearings failing from drivetrain flex. This is happening in the front and the rear of the car.
@Dave Driggs cheers for the reply mate I am enjoying the build I ended up swapping the gearbox over to the 0 wasn't to hard to get out but for some reason the pinion was stuck in the gearbox I can't get it out. I'll have a look at the info you shared on the diff heights thanks heaps for reaching out if you know why I can't get the pinion out please let me know. Thanks mate
Subbing for the awesome content!
Whats that knife u are using? And the screwdriver?
hi Sonny thanks for watching! So the knife is a MTech USA Spring Assisted Folding Knife and the screwdriver is the AMIR Electric Screwdriver. Both from amazon. The driver is cloned from several companies so you can pretty much pick the one that fits what you're after. I use all MIP bits for my driver and team associated nut drivers for the 7.0 and 5.5mm stuff.
Plastic shock cap's?
Yes, all the AE 10th scale race kits have plastic shock caps. I have not seen any 13mm aftermarket metal / aluminum replacements for these yet. Guessing JConcepts will have some..
Man, I wish i got this buggy instead of the b6.4d.
I'd like a little more detail in the video not just a fast forward one. Newbies don't get much from this.
Thanks for the feedback Greg!