Love your videos mate and this one was no exception. Just one small point. When you polished the bumper, compound and polish found its way into the parking sensors creating a white ring. From experience I know this is an awkward and time-consuming process to remove. To get around this, I bought a packet of round white stickers that are pretty much the exact size of parking sensors and now I apply these before I do any compounding or polishing of bumpers. After polishing, I just peel them off. Saves loads of time and hassle. Works for me!
Tbh mate the polishes we use just hit round that sensor with a pressure washer after and aslong as you don’t leave it a daft amount of time it’ll be straight off also this wasn’t my shop and he wouldn’t pay for anything like that lol 😂
This guy is the UK Gunman, he explains things perfectly for beginners, this is the best channel for learning, period...Any recommendations on a good filler primer, just can never get the filler nice and flat, bad edges from old paint flake and pinholes despite using Dolphin glaze, Upol easy sand, think I need a DA Sander..Keep up the good work, your videos are the best!!!!!
i use kapci or churchill high build tbh mate , max meyer if you have the budget is great too, lol and im not the uk gunman im just a painter sharing his work hoping to help a few of you guys out
Hi Tony. I have been watching your channel with a great deal of interest. It is a goldmine of information and techniques. It takes a lot of time and effort to create and edit these videos so many thanks for your dedication. I have a very old Ford Prefect (1952). It is all original other it has been painted around forty years ago in cellulose. It’s not a very good job and there is shrinkage and some signs or reaction here and there. For the most part it is very straight though other than a few ripples on the bonnet. So I’m thinking of blocking the bonnet then high building it before blocking again. The rest of the car I will likely just block and key up before priming and painting. I want to prime the whole thing to minimise any reactions from what has gone before. I will be doing it panels off too due to space restrictions and because I want to treat areas for rust etc. Any advice would be very much appreciated and sorry for such a long winded question. Regards Kris
Tonys_Refinishing that would be brilliant. I will do that but I try take as much from your videos so as not to take up too much of your time. The Anglia and VW camper vids have been a big help already.
Hi, you started from de blend area first, I have a question from that spot, before you paint how you prepare the blend area, i mean the last step of sand paper to prepare the blend. Thank you so much greetings from México
Great video Tony as always, big fan. I tried many times blending the clear coat, did everything by the book and my blend always starts "ripping back" and you can see the blending zone no matter how much you polish the transition. Also tried fine P3000 sanding and it starts tearing back right away. Could you give me any advice why this happens? Maybe low quality fade out thinner or are they all the same? Thanks.
@@TonysRefinishingTV Thanks for reply, I prepare the blend area with P2000. Maybe it's not dry enough when I polish it, since I dont have a booth and I start sanding the next day.
Hi Tony, loving the videos, regarding blending with the 2k fast thinners, can this process be used with straight 2k paint for say a Mercedes sprinter that does not have a clear coat. Also do you apply the fast 2k thinners when the clear coat is tacky or fully cured, thanks.
ideally when the clear is wet or very near just layed down mate tbh i find as its still wetter so flows easier when adding the blending thinners over it, once its gone tacky its started to go hard therefore harder to blend in , it does work with 2k gloss yes but unless youve really polished the panel up before hand and got a great match itll show, so the way i do it is to use 2k and bland the colour like base then reclear over the panel to match it in seamlessly hope that helps fella
Between you and Gunman,i have started spraying again...last time was decades ago with Acrylic lacquer.So far wing mirrors and 5 mag wheels. Turned out good. Just a few runs in the clear. Many thanks ,i have learned so much and am really enjoying it. I plan to do a full respray on both my BMW e36's . Plan to just do all repairs and finish in primer at home then hire a spray booth for the full respray. Thanks again Tony.
Thing I tend to struggle with is colour matching, I’ve had paint made up to a sample off the car(fuel cap)and still the colour seems out, do you think in your experience there are good colour matching guys and poor ? .... Thanks again Tony
100% there is mate yes but also plastic never quite looks the same when painted some colours are bette Ethan others like darker ones such as this in the video silvers ect are worse on bumpers
Better to be safe than sorry when it comes to overspray mate tbh a little plastic sheet to cover the car or hours with a clay bar and a polished if things don’t go as planned , an easy choice in my book
My diy smart repair went well last weak (rattle cans) until i put too much fade out spray on and it run so i left it a week and its still soft, my 1500 dragged it up kind of, any tips, thanks
If you listen to what I say in the video though usually I do not cut and polish the whole Bumper corner usually I will just nib and polish and just polish the blend on it’s Own , i included a polishing stage in this video as I said for the beginner and diy guys to see a Way they could do it to make it a more detailed video for people who may not be able to achieve the full finish from the gun
lesson two,never polish in the paint booth...thats how you contaminate the area.booth is for painting only..bodyshop safe polish?no such thing ...any polish will cause a fisheye if you have dust from it in the booth,i would fire you for polishing inside the booth.that defeats the purpose of having a paint booth
ok i agree partly with the comment yes the booth is supposed to be just for paint i agree however in many shops and alot ive worked in sometimes needs must , time is tight and so is space, however ive never had an issue with fish eyes in the booth , im my own personal shop that i have now we often polish jobs in the booth before demasking to reduce mess on the car , compound in door jams ect and benefit from the better lighting in the booth whilst doing it ands have no issues with this causing fish eyes or anything else as we have great housekeeping as far as the booth goes
Tony. The explanation of your videos is one the best or perhaps the best on this media.
Please keep up with the videos.
Thankyou I appreciate that
Best videos ever. Simple...to the point... easy. Well done. Keep them coming!!
Love your videos mate and this one was no exception. Just one small point. When you polished the bumper, compound and polish found its way into the parking sensors creating a white ring. From experience I know this is an awkward and time-consuming process to remove. To get around this, I bought a packet of round white stickers that are pretty much the exact size of parking sensors and now I apply these before I do any compounding or polishing of bumpers. After polishing, I just peel them off. Saves loads of time and hassle. Works for me!
Tbh mate the polishes we use just hit round that sensor with a pressure washer after and aslong as you don’t leave it a daft amount of time it’ll be straight off also this wasn’t my shop and he wouldn’t pay for anything like that lol 😂
This guy is the UK Gunman, he explains things perfectly for beginners, this is the best channel for learning, period...Any recommendations on a good filler primer, just can never get the filler nice and flat, bad edges from old paint flake and pinholes despite using Dolphin glaze, Upol easy sand, think I need a DA Sander..Keep up the good work, your videos are the best!!!!!
i use kapci or churchill high build tbh mate , max meyer if you have the budget is great too, lol and im not the uk gunman im just a painter sharing his work hoping to help a few of you guys out
Small compressor for a beginner-what would be recommended specs for that? Would you recommend to use HVLP or LVLP gun with it?
Hi Tony.
I have been watching your channel with a great deal of interest. It is a goldmine of information and techniques. It takes a lot of time and effort to create and edit these videos so many thanks for your dedication.
I have a very old Ford Prefect (1952). It is all original other it has been painted around forty years ago in cellulose. It’s not a very good job and there is shrinkage and some signs or reaction here and there. For the most part it is very straight though other than a few ripples on the bonnet.
So I’m thinking of blocking the bonnet then high building it before blocking again.
The rest of the car I will likely just block and key up before priming and painting.
I want to prime the whole thing to minimise any reactions from what has gone before.
I will be doing it panels off too due to space restrictions and because I want to treat areas for rust etc.
Any advice would be very much appreciated and sorry for such a long winded question.
Regards
Kris
Thankyou very much for the kind words kris it’s appreciated and thankyou for watching
as for advice on the car message me through our facebook page and i can talk to you easier on there
Tonys_Refinishing that would be brilliant. I will do that but I try take as much from your videos so as not to take up too much of your time. The Anglia and VW camper vids have been a big help already.
Tony once again a brilliant video. I've picked up so many tips from you. Thanks again.
No problem at all mate
What a fantastic result , great two part video
thanks
Very helpful videos. Thanks for sharing your experience 😊 🙏
Your welcome mate
Excellent job! Can you tell me what buffer, pads, and. Backing plate you are using
Farecla mate I only use there’s
Hi, you started from de blend area first, I have a question from that spot, before you paint how you prepare the blend area, i mean the last step of sand paper to prepare the blend. Thank you so much greetings from México
hiya mate the very part where we blend the clear i use grey scotch
Great job. U r right, hands on experience is the way u learn.
definitely buddy there is no thing more important in this job i think , pieces of paper mean nothing compared to years of hard work and skill
Thanks about your video.can you making video how to remove type line paint.
Great video Tony as always, big fan. I tried many times blending the clear coat, did everything by the book and my blend always starts "ripping back" and you can see the blending zone no matter how much you polish the transition. Also tried fine P3000 sanding and it starts tearing back right away. Could you give me any advice why this happens? Maybe low quality fade out thinner or are they all the same? Thanks.
The blend area isn’t keyed well enough mate that’s why
@@TonysRefinishingTV Thanks for reply, I prepare the blend area with P2000. Maybe it's not dry enough when I polish it, since I dont have a booth and I start sanding the next day.
Hi Tony, loving the videos, regarding blending with the 2k fast thinners, can this process be used with straight 2k paint for say a Mercedes sprinter that does not have a clear coat. Also do you apply the fast 2k thinners when the clear coat is tacky or fully cured, thanks.
ideally when the clear is wet or very near just layed down mate tbh i find as its still wetter so flows easier when adding the blending thinners over it, once its gone tacky its started to go hard therefore harder to blend in , it does work with 2k gloss yes but unless youve really polished the panel up before hand and got a great match itll show, so the way i do it is to use 2k and bland the colour like base then reclear over the panel to match it in seamlessly hope that helps fella
Thanks man nice job really do you use cheap gun spray for big job please tell me know
No I rarely use cheap guns mate tbh
Thanks Tony for this video. Nicely explained and the result looks perfect. Much appreciated...
Thanks Richard and thanks for watching
Between you and Gunman,i have started spraying again...last time was decades ago with Acrylic lacquer.So far wing mirrors and 5 mag wheels. Turned out good. Just a few runs in the clear. Many thanks ,i have learned so much and am really enjoying it. I plan to do a full respray on both my BMW e36's . Plan to just do all repairs and finish in primer at home then hire a spray booth for the full respray. Thanks again Tony.
That’s great to hear we have inspired you gain mate thankyou
So are fade out thinners and standard thinners the same thing? I’ve never seen someone blend with standard thinners before.
No mate there different but both can work in my opinion
Man that is nice Great job
Thanks fella
Another great video Tony! Booth is looking lovely and clean by the way!
Thanks guys and that’s down to you guys
Thing I tend to struggle with is colour matching, I’ve had paint made up to a sample off the car(fuel cap)and still the colour seems out, do you think in your experience there are good colour matching guys and poor ? .... Thanks again Tony
100% there is mate yes but also plastic never quite looks the same when painted some colours are bette Ethan others like darker ones such as this in the video silvers ect are worse on bumpers
@@TonysRefinishingTV Thanks for the reply bud I think I need to try a few different paint suppliers then lol
Thank you Tony for sharing. Your explanations are just excellent! Fantastic job!
Thankyou glad you enjoyed the video
That’s class Tony love it 👍
Thanks Steve
Nice video just wondered why you covered whole car for a bumper corner
Better to be safe than sorry when it comes to overspray mate tbh a little plastic sheet to cover the car or hours with a clay bar and a polished if things don’t go as planned , an easy choice in my book
Cracking video Tony
Thanks graham
great job again my new favourite refinish channel top vid .thanks for sharing
Kind regards Simon
👍
Thanks Simon really appreciate the comment to glad to have you with us
Hi, What about the back-up sensor. Do you mask it off or can you paint it with BC/CC?
Does the increase in film change the sensor readings?
Thank you
No you can paint over them with no issues
Tonys_Refinishing
Thank you
Incorrect. Adding more paint onto the park sensor can affect its ability to work properly.
TIL : prep, prep, prep. Do what Tony says. :)
My diy smart repair went well last weak (rattle cans) until i put too much fade out spray on and it run so i left it a week and its still soft, my 1500 dragged it up kind of, any tips, thanks
The biggest issue is rattle cans they don’t dry the same as the kinds of paint we use I’m afraid
use a heat gun or your wifes/gf hair dryer to dry your paint quicker
Wouldn’t repainting the whole bumper be more economical versus doing a blow in and then spending so much time cutting and polishing?
If you listen to what I say in the video though usually I do not cut and polish the whole
Bumper corner usually I will just nib and polish and just polish the blend on it’s
Own , i included a polishing stage in this video as I said for the beginner and diy guys to see a Way they could do it to make it a more detailed video for people who may not be able to achieve the full finish from the gun
very good job
thanks man
Spot on 👍🏻
thanks
Great job thanks for all your hard work hey you want to sell your carcoon
Sorry my carcoon still get used on a daily basis buddy
You use some old fashioned techniques mate and I disagree with a few of them, but very good example for an amateur to follow none the less..👍
Wonder how many times he says "guys" in the video
or at this stage lol its so hard to voice these over sometimes lol 😂
lesson two,never polish in the paint booth...thats how you contaminate the area.booth is for painting only..bodyshop safe polish?no such thing ...any polish will cause a fisheye if you have dust from it in the booth,i would fire you for polishing inside the booth.that defeats the purpose of having a paint booth
ok i agree partly with the comment yes the booth is supposed to be just for paint i agree however in many shops and alot ive worked in sometimes needs must , time is tight and so is space, however ive never had an issue with fish eyes in the booth , im my own personal shop that i have now we often polish jobs in the booth before demasking to reduce mess on the car , compound in door jams ect and benefit from the better lighting in the booth whilst doing it ands have no issues with this causing fish eyes or anything else as we have great housekeeping as far as the booth goes
One can't argue with great results!
the parking sensors look like shit Tony clean them Thanks for the video
The photos were before the car had been cleaned and detailed , please refrain from swearing on the channel as this is a family channel thankyou